It's interesting to see how things change. 30 years ago we used tapered boltsdriven into hand drilled holes with no adhesive. I think that all ofthem would be more than strong enough as the load is usually in shear. great video, thanks.
I think it would be safer to say 'most of them' rather than 'all of them'. I removed plenty of very dodgy bash in carrots over the years. Some deliberately, some just fell out when I weighted them!
very interesting. The conclusion seems about right. If you do the test again I'd suggest installing thermocouples to see what the actual temperate attained was, and compare to the epoxy specification. I would conjecture that a large forrest fire could get a lot hotter than a blowtorch.
Propane torch can reach nearly 2000C. Forest fire can reach 800C. The time of exposure is a lot more significant here. Soil temperature profiles suggest that the temperature at 1cm depth for typical forest fire profile is about 180C. IMO, thermal cracking of natural boundaries in surface rock is the real danger here. ecommons.usask.ca/bitstream/handle/10388/etd-09182006-214523/Thesis_Enninful_Ebenezer.pdf
man i dont believe these numbers 40 KN 30 KN , look at the old karabiners wich are rated for maybe 25KN (even if they can take 10KN more ) just casually holding on 40 KN ... without even a tiny bend
rated for and peak load are very different. Essentially the very lightest screwgate has to be rated for 25ish so that heavy bugger should be a hell of a lot more.
I would really hope that all this is happening on someone's private property. It seems ridiculous that for the sake of making a video about failure rates that we need to destroy portions of the natural world that we as climbers and outdoor participants of all types are supposed to hold with respect and preserve for future generations. No matter how small and insignificant the damage may seem some it does make a lasting and irreversible impact.
James Slater this was after one of the biggest national parks in australia was destroyed by bush fires and nobody wanted to climb on the bolts because they thought it was fire damage.. these guys are legends giving way more back then you ever will.
+James Slater do you hown a computer, phone, car?? you ARE wathcing this on youtbe right, how the fck do you think you have those things??? and a few mm holes to test load are you main concern. what a hypocrite!
@BG what is it buddy, have I hurt your boyfriends feelings. Or are you a tree hugger as well that cannot comprehend the importance of the test being done here.
this test was a total waste of time.....the test were inconclusive.....so what was the purpose....you proved nothing other than even after a fire, the kn ratings would still hold a factor two fall.......
Why are you destroying rock to test this? These are irreversible changes you're making to features that took millions of years to develop; it is painful to watch.
+Joseph Nields and so did all the materials used to make the computer/device you're watching this on. I hope your not a climber, because if you are, I'm sure you've clipped a bolt or two in your existence, which by the way is more harmful (along with everyone else) to this earth than drilling a few holes into a rock.
It's interesting to see how things change. 30 years ago we used tapered boltsdriven into hand drilled holes with no adhesive. I think that all ofthem would be more than strong enough as the load is usually in shear. great video, thanks.
I think it would be safer to say 'most of them' rather than 'all of them'. I removed plenty of very dodgy bash in carrots over the years. Some deliberately, some just fell out when I weighted them!
I doubt proper bolts "sheer" at all.
Seems like an angle that would be rarely used unless on a belay
Unless you're on an overhang ;) not sure about the belay either as most people i know tend to set anchor at head height
A bit over 30kN, that's pretty dang good even with it being rock failure!! Impressive
Instablaster
Anyone else check their phone at 3:49?
Yes
+EpicMan427 definitly ;)
very interesting. The conclusion seems about right. If you do the test again I'd suggest installing thermocouples to see what the actual temperate attained was, and compare to the epoxy specification. I would conjecture that a large forrest fire could get a lot hotter than a blowtorch.
Propane torch can reach nearly 2000C. Forest fire can reach 800C. The time of exposure is a lot more significant here. Soil temperature profiles suggest that the temperature at 1cm depth for typical forest fire profile is about 180C. IMO, thermal cracking of natural boundaries in surface rock is the real danger here. ecommons.usask.ca/bitstream/handle/10388/etd-09182006-214523/Thesis_Enninful_Ebenezer.pdf
shouldn't you be wearing safety glasses
what are safety glasses
Blackjack4141 half empty german beer botle
what are those eye bolt? they look pretty different/thinner than usual climbing ringbolt, I'm curiuous where did they come?
let me guess the hydraulicy guy works for a super glue company ?
wouldnt know. but he is an Australian climbing legend.
man i dont believe these numbers 40 KN 30 KN , look at the old karabiners wich are rated for maybe 25KN (even if they can take 10KN more ) just casually holding on 40 KN ... without even a tiny bend
exactly what i thought
rated for and peak load are very different. Essentially the very lightest screwgate has to be rated for 25ish so that heavy bugger should be a hell of a lot more.
Those 'biners are almost definitely steel (based off of the fact they look exactly like my steelies) which hold ±40kN
I would really hope that all this is happening on someone's private property. It seems ridiculous that for the sake of making a video about failure rates that we need to destroy portions of the natural world that we as climbers and outdoor participants of all types are supposed to hold with respect and preserve for future generations. No matter how small and insignificant the damage may seem some it does make a lasting and irreversible impact.
James Slater this was after one of the biggest national parks in australia was destroyed by bush fires and nobody wanted to climb on the bolts because they thought it was fire damage.. these guys are legends giving way more back then you ever will.
I'm sorry that you took my comment so personally. Just read the comment for what it was. Simple concern.
This test was done in a quarry. Thousands of tonnes of rock had already been removed!
+James Slater do you hown a computer, phone, car?? you ARE wathcing this on youtbe right, how the fck do you think you have those things??? and a few mm holes to test load are you main concern. what a hypocrite!
@BG what is it buddy, have I hurt your boyfriends feelings. Or are you a tree hugger as well that cannot comprehend the importance of the test being done here.
this test was a total waste of time.....the test were inconclusive.....so what was the purpose....you proved nothing other than even after a fire, the kn ratings would still hold a factor two fall.......
+kayakerodie Isn't that all that needs to be proven on this? If it can take any climbing fall I don't care the exact failure point in the end.
Why are you destroying rock to test this? These are irreversible changes you're making to features that took millions of years to develop; it is painful to watch.
This is a quarry located behind suburban houses and next to a dirtbike track within the area of Australia's largest city.
+Joseph Nields and so did all the materials used to make the computer/device you're watching this on. I hope your not a climber, because if you are, I'm sure you've clipped a bolt or two in your existence, which by the way is more harmful (along with everyone else) to this earth than drilling a few holes into a rock.
+Joseph Nields you are an idiot
Kumbaya my lord kumbaya