What do the Numbers on Back of your Strobes Mean?
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Article with diagrams: tutorials.bren...
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This video describes what the numbers on back of your underwater strobe mean and how to control them for perfect flash exposure.
1:17 - TTL and Flash Exposure Compensation
4:08 - Manual Flash Control and Guide Numbers
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Great Video! A tip I’ve learned using my Z-330 strobes in full manual: sometimes mid-dive I’ll see my images way over-exposed, and after fiddling with the strobe power settings and camera exposure settings, I’ll notice the “OFF-STTL-Low-Full-M” control knob has shifted from the full clockwise “M” position to the “FULL” position, providing max strobe power. Putting it back to “M” corrects the problem. Just remember to go back and “in-fiddle” all the strobe power and camera exposure settings after to fix the real problem. Don’t know why that knob sometimes gets shifted over a click to “FULL,” but I’ve had this happen often enough that now that’s the first thing I check when images suddenly become overexposed. Keep up the really helpful tutorials - they are a HUGE help!
Thanks Todd - really appreciate it. Great insight with the Z-330. Are you using thick gloves? Moving the power knob accidentally was a major issue on Sea&Sea's first YS-D1s - I'd turn the strobes off nearly time I grabbed the back to position them. They updated the knob in the next version thankfully. Nothing beats real-world testing pre-production to discover issues like this. I appreciate the info as I haven't used the Z330s.
@@BrentDurand No gloves - Florida Keys diver! Haven’t figured out yet how I manage to brush the knob to the “FULL” position, but at least now I know where to check first! Now that I’m repositioning the strobes more frequently (thanks to your great video on strobe placement!), maybe I need to watch more carefully how I grab the strobe to maneuver it around. Anyway, great tutorials - keep ‘em coming! - Kurt
Hi. How are you? Could you make a video on best camera settings for the different flash modes (TTL, Manual) on UW strobes?
Hi - This is a great idea for a video however it's going to depend on the type of camera, dive conditions, subject, composition, and other factors - way too much to try and simplify beyond the basic settings in my article and tutorial here: tutorials.brentdurand.com/basic-settings-for-underwater-photography/
Definitely give these 'swim settings' a try and then start adjusting from there. Hope this helps!
Great piece of information.. thanks.
I’m glad this was useful, Sumedha!
Hi great video … is it possible todo a video about the z330 the manual settings i can’t find a good video
You have the m with some numbers and at the top you see nummers and a-b-c
Hi Mario. The Z330 is pretty confusing to look at but actually is simple to operate. Next to the M position on the control knob you will see a little diagram showing -0.5 -> -6. This is trying to indicate that -0.5 on the power control dial is full power and -6 is low power. In other words, you turn the knob clockwise to increase strobe output in manual mode. I've included notes on this and a diagram of the strobe back on my guide below so you can take a closer look:
tutorials.brentdurand.com/strobe-control-dials/
Hope this helps!
@@BrentDurand thanks use the m mode and push the button to lock the manual mode
In the top of the diagram you see a-b-c how to use this one
@@marioalbers887 If you're shooting manual, then don't worry about that extra diagram. That's for controlling Super-TTL flash exposure compensation. Neutral is in the 12 o'clock position, then you turn the knob clockwise until 3 o'clock position to incrementally increase flash exposure compensation, or turn the knob counter clockwise until the 9 o'clock position to decrease flash exposure compensation. Again, don't worry about it with manual power!
Great video for sure! I have a YS D2 just like the one in your video, and I notice the guide numbers are the same as f-stop numbers for lens apertures. Is the relationship anything like 1 to 1, so for instance if I’m stopped down to f16 should I dial in the strobe power to 16? Or is that not how to think of it?
Btw I shoot an Olympus OMD Em5 ii in manual mode, with mostly prime lenses fwiw.
Thanks again for the great content!
Hi Jaeson - Great question. In short, no, the numbers on the YS-D2 do not relate to apertures. You'll notice each number decreases by 50%, meaning as you move the knob from one number to the next, you're reducing the strobe power by 50 percent. The highest number 32 is the strobe's maximum power, measured as a "guide number." Hope that helps!
Hi Brent,
Thank you for another great video. I have a basic question: I assume the strobe adjusts the total light per flash by changing the intensity of the flash and not by increasing the duration of the flash, correct? The flash is, for all practical purposes, instantaneous. Is this correct?
From your videos, it looks like you dive central and north coast of California. I hope to cross paths with you some day. I, too, am improving my kayak diving protocol and your paddle board videos are helpful.
Dan
Hi Dan, thanks for the kind words. Yes, you're correct. It's the intensity / power of the strobe that is changed. Great to hear you're diving here in central/northern California. I need to get a kayak again... had to sell mine when moving to NorCal - go figure. Glad that the paddleboard videos were helpful! So much to explore when you have that extended range!
Hi Brent, in one of your many amazing vids, you introduced the 2 step methodoligy for wide angle shots. First adjusting exposure without flash and once settled, add the flash and adjust the flash power to light the foreground appropriately. This actually triggered me starting to think about it in more depth for some scenarios.
Would it actually mean that I one should always ensure proper exposure and then only use flash light to bring color?
Till today, I feel I kind of use my 2 flashs to create enough light to see more than black which looks like the totally wrong approach.
Doesn't flash usage require adjustment of the while exposure setup for wide angle?
Hope you can help getting it right.
Hi Marutukus - Glad you're watching these videos. I assume we're only talking about wide-angle. Since all true wide-angle photos combine ambient light (background) and artificial light in the foreground (strobes), you should always achieve correct exposure of the background before adding the foreground light. The exception here is if the entire scene is close and will be lit by the strobes, in that situation there is more "try and retry" technique until you know the settings for a scene like that. It's a bit like macro in that you're relying 100% on artificial light, and as a result, cannot do the 2-step process. I hope I answered your question.
@@BrentDurand Hi Brent, thanks for answering so quickly. This and of course your vids helped me out a lot.
Talking about my strobes lighting the scene, what would you expect the range to be for a GN 33meter strobe in fair uw conditions. I assune around 5 to 7 meters distance can be covered at max. Didn't find many helpful info on that matter by now.
@@marutukus5349 This greatly depends. Other factors include depth, particulate in the water, color of the subject and light absorbtion, etc. 3 meters is closer to maximum in excellent conditions.
Good timing! Just got a set of YS-01 Solis strobes and I was trying to figure out this exactly. What does the N stand for on the power knob stand for?
Hi Bert - I haven't used these strobes yet, but I believe the N is the starting point for DS-TTL shooting. When placing the knob at the N, you can adjust the light intensity (basically flash exposure compensation) up or down slightly. Sea & Sea's manual says the level can only be adjusted down, but that doesn't seem right given the graphic. Can you call the retailer where you got the strobe? They'll know. We're curious! :- )
@@BrentDurand That makes sense based on the information that you were saying in the video. I've only used them in manual mode and for some reason when I turn the knob all the way to the right I don't get as much output as when it was in the middle. I'm still experimenting so maybe it's one of my other settings. I bought them from B&H photo so I'll try and send them a message sometime and see if they can provide any guidance. Thanks for making such great videos; they have been super helpful to me in learning UW photography!
@@bertweeks2688 Interesting. I'm not sure why you wouldn't increase power output by turning the dial right towards -0.5. Maybe you have TTL active on your camera?
And thank you! Glad you're enjoying the videos!
@@BrentDurand I'm still trying to figure out the issue with my strobes and made a quick video describing the problem. If you got a minute to watch it, I would appreciate the help.
ua-cam.com/video/V2nxSmXsl0E/v-deo.html
@@bertweeks2688 Hi Bert. Sorry you're having this problem, but great video. I really have no idea, but it seems to a strobe issue and not a camera or camera flash issue. My first thought is that the capacitor might not be charging all the way at those two highest powers, although I see the red LED indicate the strobe is ready to fire. What batteries are you using? Are they new? High quality like Eneloop Pros?
Maybe the strobe needs a firmware reset. Where did you get the strobe? I'd try contacting the retailer and see if they've encountered this problem before. They may also be able to get you info faster than contacting Sea & Sea directly. Sorry I don't have a better answer.
Thanks for the great video. I'm thinking of purchasing some Sea & Sea YS-D3 strobes. Most of my diving is in freshwater quarries, etc. I get to the ocean 2-3 times a year. Are there any suggestions for using strobes in turbid water? In a quarry, using a strobe seems to do nothing but light up every little particle in the water which deems them pretty much useless. Are video lights almost a better option?
Hi Jason - Thanks for the kind words. Video lights are still a light source and can illuminate those particles. The only solution for conditions like this is to ensure the strobes are out wide and angled out so that just the inside of the cone of light touches the subject (see 21 minute video below on strobe positioning). That said, it's still tricky. Most of my diving is in chunky 10ft vis and it's still a challenge to light every photo! Depending on the particulate, some people talk about turning the strobes backwards, where the light then reflects off all the particles and bounces back to your subject in a subtle, diffused way that reduces that backscatter glow. Hope this helps.
- Video: ua-cam.com/video/YEcbVIgUanY/v-deo.html
- Full Article: tutorials.brentdurand.com/underwater-strobe-positioning/
@@BrentDurand Thank you for the response. That positioning video was very helpful!
Hi what is the distance that 2 strobe will throw. On a medium costing flash Thanks
2 to 3 meters if the strobes are really good middle range. Anyway, the closer you are always the better results you would get.
Hi Ben - Using two strobes will not make either of the beams brighter over longer distances. Instead, when you're using two strobes you have wider coverage. Instead of one strobe at 100-120 degree beam angle, you'll have two strobes, one on each side of the camera, lighting a wider scene in front of you (reef, shark, etc.). Below is a link to a full article and 21 minute video that explains this more: tutorials.brentdurand.com/underwater-strobe-positioning/
Hope this helps!
On some strobes there is an option to add a magnet.
What is it used for?
I have an Inon d-2000s
Ah yes - Inon's magnet! I forgot to mention this in the video. In short, the magnet should be connected to the strobe when shooting manual. The magnet should be removed when shooting TTL/Automatic. Reef Photo has a great blog article on this if you scroll down to the Advanced Cancel Circuit section: reefphoto.com/blogs/lighting/selecting-the-proper-settings-for-inon-strobes-1
@@BrentDurand thank you!!
@@BrentDurand Can you also explain the diffuser usage please?
like, when will I use a diffuser and why, what the differences between them and etc.
thank you!
@@sarthur1111 This is a great idea. I'll add it to the list for upcoming videos and try to collect the beam angles for all popular strobes with and without diffusers to help put all the info in one place. Thanks for the suggestion!
You have been lost!!
But now I'm back with more videos!