This has got to be the truest video on how this is done, that i would have to say, is 100% correct. One other thing to note. When you do select the gasket for your combination, buy three or four sets and match each gasket to each other. You never know when you are going to have to change them out.
I did my set up myself and everything worked out great. I’m a career precision ASME welder and grinder of stainless steel so this was pretty simple money saving task. I went as far as I could up inside of the short turn radius of the intake runner and left the plenum alone except for grinding out the casting lines. Thanks Prestige Motorsports.
Hello Prestige, Excellent video. First I have seen that is precision. If you don’t mind I would like to offer a different angle that will give exacting results as well. I have worked aviation sheet metal for many years, 73 yrs old now, and whenever I came to a hole that could not be back drilled or scribed or could not use hole finders on, I came up with a trick that was always on the money. If you would attach your gasket as you have done and then cover the ports over with a mild tack tape or film or such, then trim the substance to the edge of the port opening. Now take a fairly heavy tack double sided tape and attach it to the intake manifold in order to cover the ports over. Now place the intake in place and tighten it down. Let it set for a few minutes and remove it straight up. The heavy double sided tape will adhere to the light tack tape and will lift it off and you w I’ll then have transferred the image of the port openings onto the intake and you can port it down from there. It may take a couple of tries to get the knack of it but it has worked for me for many years and the tolerance in aviation sheetmetal would suffice you as well. Just thought you might want to try it out.
We just took the gasket that we used. Then made one without the port holes in it out of copper. Spray machinist dye onto both sides and bolted it on. Removed it and the dye transfers to both the head and intake... No guessing. You know just where to remove and transition the ports for that head\intake combination...
Truly appreciate your contribution ! There are many videos on this subject out there and this is by far the best. This seems to be the only video which makes use of the red & blue Dykem to accurately match ports and the comments about Ford bolt holes/angle surfaces is spot on. I use studs for my SBF intake manifold, so this should make the step of sliding the intake onto heads simpler and less prone to any sliding (left-right-forward-aft).
Excellent video this is the 1st video that really was understandable enough to make me feel I could hack my way thru a better then average port polish job the next time I have to remove my intake
That's a time consuming way to get results. Sometimes you can mark the front and top of the intake and gaskets and easily transfer them for scribing. Sometimes it's easier to drill 1/8" holes in the front and back of the intake flange (well away from water) just deep enough to kiss the heads. Then you can "pin" the gasket to the intake flanges for scribing. To each - their own. Cool video!
Great vid. I never thought to do it exsactly like that. The only thing I reLly do differently is I use some threaded rod to line the intake up. Or just cut some long bolts to make sure I’m right on every time I lifer it off. And if I have to egg out the holes to line it up better I just elongate them to sit it where I want.
I have one of the 575 hp 427w and I’m going through this process but the intake will not sit straight down on the heads. I have to slide it from the front and that will probably smear the Prussian blue. Plus how can I seal the rails? Thank You
Use a gasket such as Felpro. Each part number is consistent with the port. Unlike most cheapies where you are having to cut the gasket bigger. You have to be carefull on what you touch with the grinder. Having tried to straighten an intake port I have struck both water or head bolt hole. Minor problems can be devconned but larger are weld it or scrap it. That intake had a LOT taken out of the roof. In reality there is very little difference if you are a little conservative A slightly smaller intake seldom hurts. But an intake bigger than the ports does hurt. More so the higher the rpm. Edelbrock Performer for a Clevo or M engine has a medium raceport Chev intake. Which is on a 2V head. The 4V is hugely different. So the mixture falls into the bigger hole.
Ever see somebody put a Cleveland 4 bbl intake onto 2 bbl heads?? Gross mismatch, but the engine still picks up 15 HP. It's all relative to time and $ = power. How fast do you want to go ? $1,000 ? $2,000 ?
Great video intresting technique my only question is if you have the heads why would you do a gasket match when you could scribe the ports and do port compensation for gasket on roof and floor? From the prospective of a shop.
He aint gonna answer you, you sound like you know what your talking about. Its a pattern on most of these youtuber shops. Now if you were kissing his ass he'd call ya and say thanks!!!
Do you port match the coolant passage also? I have a #906 Vortec head and there is ALOT of material within my blued scribe mark. Intake gasket is out of a kit. "Problem solver gasket" i was told by FelPro. Plain metal core with black rubberized molded gasket around port.
hi,hows it goin? good vid ! so if i was to port the cylinder head instead , i would just switch the dykem colors around? say red to cylinder head & blue to intake manifold & do the impression that way?
LOVE THE VIDEO but how can you line it up without considering the bolt holes before you make your pencil marks? Is there that much wiggle room with bolt location?
I did it one time on a sticker and put it back together. I actually did feel an improvement. But generally... No. It's a waste of time and $ for what results I got. Do it on a build up. Yes.
Can you do this without the block? Reason i ask is can I take heads and intake to grinder to do the port matching without having to take whole engine in
The heads might sit slightly different. So no, not really. What we always did was leave the manifold .025" smaller all around than the heads. Just in case. No power difference.
Yeah if whoever is doing the work has a mock up block and you know your deck height and what head gasket you'll use. Can take a mock up block and use shims to get the heads to the right height, then fit up the intake.
The heads might not be on the block right. The core shift on heads and manifolds could be real bad This fixes the variables.... For your one particular installation. Two are rarely the same, only close
So just ignore the gasket part that clips to the head bolt? Lol
6 років тому
The right port bottom line was right on the edge of the manifold casting. That bottom line did not look right. You should use studs to locate the gasket (mark it as you did) and secure it with nuts and plastic washers. You should use the exact same gasket you plan to use during assemble to get the port lines exact on each part.
Average of all... Maybe 3. Some 6. Facts are that throwing a bunch of out of the box stuff onto a block will work, but careful assembly causes excellence.
unless your building a grudge car or prostock or some other unlimited competition setup, this is a wast of time and money. If your cruzzing to the DQ in your mustang on Saturday night, you will never know the diff......
Wow dude..... WOW.....Anyone who would willingly waste there time to port that manifold when the dollar for dollar bang would be in the head's then just purchase anyone of the numerous High performance Aluminum intake manifolds specific to your need's . there are so many high performance manifolds out there that out flow ANY stocker match ported or not it's just a huge waste of time unless of course it was a certain Stock class of racing that requires a stock manifold ..But every Small block responds well to high performance aluminum head's ....
that might be true for single planes like this but an RPM dual plane for my car out the box flows 220cfm most TF TW 170 heads flow like 250 @.500. im not putting a victor Jr on that as that stock flows 270+ and why would i need one on a 10:1 302?! Id put a port match performer on it. if they know what they're doing it should ALSO flow about 250 when its done but port alignment is ALWAYS important. not just how much something flows off the shelf. nothing is ever aligned off the shelf and also there will be less flow scatter if you have a hand porter work their magic. thats exactly why they charge anywhere from 200-800+ a manifold. the racers will agree with me even though im just a stocker for now. it depends on what you re trying to do. a street car needs less of this. you could put brodix ST5.0 185s or AFR 185's?TW 11R 190s off the shelf on this engines and a victor jr and theyll flow about the same at around 280-CFM which is a lot even for a stroker
MrHazel Spec flow values above 55%, tend to make soggy street driveability. Eg. 302 x 55%= 165 cfm. Bigger heads and flow values increase rpm capability but make em pretty soggy below 3500. Most of us are NOT DRIVING DYNOS.
Michael Laverty, please tell me which manufacturer ever used an Edlebrock Victor Jr on any production model engine, and in what vehicles was it offered? In addition, since when was a Victor Jr not a high performance intake manifold?
@@hotrodray6802 Huh?! i guarantee you none of those cars set up the correct way are soft down low. a lot of people have put AFR 185s and TW 11r 190s on 302s and picked up EVERYWHERE so big heads and soggy bottom end is a myth for the most part
After 25 years of wet flow testing all types of intakes and heads , its great to see someone the actualy knows where the wet flow is. Great work
This has got to be the truest video on how this is done, that i would have to say, is 100% correct. One other thing to note. When you do select the gasket for your combination, buy three or four sets and match each gasket to each other. You never know when you are going to have to change them out.
instablaster...
I did my set up myself and everything worked out great. I’m a career precision ASME welder and grinder of stainless steel so this was pretty simple money saving task. I went as far as I could up inside of the short turn radius of the intake runner and left the plenum alone except for grinding out the casting lines.
Thanks Prestige Motorsports.
Thanks
I’m a collision technician will be porting my intake soon. Looks like a fun project.
Hello Prestige, Excellent video. First I have seen that is precision. If you don’t mind I would like to offer a different angle that will give exacting results as well. I have worked aviation sheet metal for many years, 73 yrs old now, and whenever I came to a hole that could not be back drilled or scribed or could not use hole finders on, I came up with a trick that was always on the money. If you would attach your gasket as you have done and then cover the ports over with a mild tack tape or film or such, then trim the substance to the edge of the port opening. Now take a fairly heavy tack double sided tape and attach it to the intake manifold in order to cover the ports over. Now place the intake in place and tighten it down. Let it set for a few minutes and remove it straight up. The heavy double sided tape will adhere to the light tack tape and will lift it off and you w I’ll then have transferred the image of the port openings onto the intake and you can port it down from there. It may take a couple of tries to get the knack of it but it has worked for me for many years and the tolerance in aviation sheetmetal would suffice you as well. Just thought you might want to try it out.
We just took the gasket that we used. Then made one without the port holes in it out of copper. Spray machinist dye onto both sides and bolted it on. Removed it and the dye transfers to both the head and intake... No guessing. You know just where to remove and transition the ports for that head\intake combination...
Truly appreciate your contribution ! There are many videos on this subject out there and this is by far the best. This seems to be the only video which makes use of the red & blue Dykem to accurately match ports and the comments about Ford bolt holes/angle surfaces is spot on. I use studs for my SBF intake manifold, so this should make the step of sliding the intake onto heads simpler and less prone to any sliding (left-right-forward-aft).
Gaskets will move around if not glued. Why mess up what you've done.
Excellent video this is the 1st video that really was understandable enough to make me feel I could hack my way thru a better then average port polish job the next time I have to remove my intake
Great and one of if not the best tutorial on porting videos I found.
Funny I was looking for porting on a 302 with truck flows and a Vic jr intake this is exactly my set up
That's a time consuming way to get results.
Sometimes you can mark the front and top of the intake and gaskets and easily transfer them for scribing.
Sometimes it's easier to drill 1/8" holes in the front and back of the intake flange (well away from water) just deep enough to kiss the heads. Then you can "pin" the gasket to the intake flanges for scribing.
To each - their own.
Cool video!
Great vid. I never thought to do it exsactly like that. The only thing I reLly do differently is I use some threaded rod to line the intake up. Or just cut some long bolts to make sure I’m right on every time I lifer it off. And if I have to egg out the holes to line it up better I just elongate them to sit it where I want.
I have one of the 575 hp 427w and I’m going through this process but the intake will not sit straight down on the heads. I have to slide it from the front and that will probably smear the Prussian blue. Plus how can I seal the rails? Thank You
Would you then use the same cut gaskets for the final assembly? All future gaskets must be cut or they would block the port correct?
How much $ would you save by not making a second set??
Use a gasket such as Felpro. Each part number is consistent with the port. Unlike most cheapies where you are having to cut the gasket bigger.
You have to be carefull on what you touch with the grinder.
Having tried to straighten an intake port I have struck both water or head bolt hole. Minor problems can be devconned but larger are weld it or scrap it.
That intake had a LOT taken out of the roof. In reality there is very little difference if you are a little conservative A slightly smaller intake seldom hurts. But an intake bigger than the ports does hurt. More so the higher the rpm.
Edelbrock Performer for a Clevo or M engine has a medium raceport Chev intake. Which is on a 2V head. The 4V is hugely different. So the mixture falls into the bigger hole.
So what do you use to clean off the blue without removing the red?
You muted the loud machining shot! I love you so much.
Great Help!! Thanks I even went to the extreme of port matching the exhaust to head also. very good video
Thank you!
Ever see somebody put a Cleveland 4 bbl intake onto 2 bbl heads??
Gross mismatch, but the engine still picks up 15 HP.
It's all relative to time and $ = power.
How fast do you want to go ?
$1,000 ? $2,000 ?
Great video intresting technique my only question is if you have the heads why would you do a gasket match when you could scribe the ports and do port compensation for gasket on roof and floor? From the prospective of a shop.
He aint gonna answer you, you sound like you know what your talking about. Its a pattern on most of these youtuber shops. Now if you were kissing his ass he'd call ya and say thanks!!!
Do you port match the coolant passage also? I have a #906 Vortec head and there is ALOT of material within my blued scribe mark. Intake gasket is out of a kit. "Problem solver gasket" i was told by FelPro. Plain metal core with black rubberized molded gasket around port.
hi,hows it goin? good vid ! so if i was to port the cylinder head instead , i would just switch the dykem colors around? say red to cylinder head & blue to
intake manifold & do the impression that way?
Can you use the gasket with the dye on it? Or do you have to get a fresh one?
You can use the gasket with dye on it.
LOVE THE VIDEO but how can you line it up without considering the bolt holes before you make your pencil marks? Is there that much wiggle room with bolt location?
I'd dam sure put some bolts in it.
Would this procedure work on a plastic, fuel injection manifold? Minus the lining it up by eye part.
Of course.
Remember port FI is dry flow air. No gas droplets in that air like a carb does.
Do you have to use the red high spot or just red paint marker will do
Do what he said. He's the expert.
Do you make the final guide lines with a regular pencil? Is that what I am seeing?
And how much you charge to port intake manifold, and heads, mine is Mustang 2004/ 3.8 litre?? Thanks
Would it be worth port matching a stock motor just to improve the flow? Say i port it just a bit to match, but dont do an actual port and polish.
I did it one time on a sticker and put it back together.
I actually did feel an improvement.
But generally... No. It's a waste of time and $ for what results I got.
Do it on a build up. Yes.
do you keep the 90 degree on the manifold ports too?
That's a great video.
Can you do this without the block? Reason i ask is can I take heads and intake to grinder to do the port matching without having to take whole engine in
The heads might sit slightly different. So no, not really.
What we always did was leave the manifold .025" smaller all around than the heads. Just in case.
No power difference.
Yeah if whoever is doing the work has a mock up block and you know your deck height and what head gasket you'll use.
Can take a mock up block and use shims to get the heads to the right height, then fit up the intake.
on a typical street build say 350 chev what would be the average hp gain with only port matching
2-3 on both curves
One question I have is what makes the Gasket manufacture a porting expert ?????
The heads might not be on the block right. The core shift on heads and manifolds could be real bad
This fixes the variables....
For your one particular installation.
Two are rarely the same, only close
also can dykem be removed with anything else other than dykem remover?
murder forte paint thinner
Brake cleaners, or methanol
Acetone works too.
Want to do mine?
what is a good way to contact you guys .I have a few questions.
Great how to
Thanks.
How would u do this if you were blind first time I done it looked like a blind man did it
Andrew Hunt same thing with anything else. practice and more practice.
Take you time. Go slowly. Watch closely what's happening.
So just ignore the gasket part that clips to the head bolt? Lol
The right port bottom line was right on the edge of the manifold casting. That bottom line did not look right. You should use studs to locate the gasket (mark it as you did) and secure it with nuts and plastic washers. You should use the exact same gasket you plan to use during assemble to get the port lines exact on each part.
Where is the before and after TEST of how much this helps ??????
Average of all... Maybe 3.
Some 6.
Facts are that throwing a bunch of out of the box stuff onto a block will work, but careful assembly causes excellence.
Il pay someone to do all my porting i dont know enough to trust myself especially when porting 3500 dollar AFR HEADS
U shouldn't be porting 3500 dollar heads they should already be ported to the gills
unless your building a grudge car or prostock or some other unlimited competition setup, this is a wast of time and money. If your cruzzing to the DQ in your mustang on Saturday night, you will never know the diff......
Wow dude..... WOW.....Anyone who would willingly waste there time to port that manifold when the dollar for dollar bang would be in the head's then just purchase anyone of the numerous High performance Aluminum intake manifolds specific to your need's . there are so many high performance manifolds out there that out flow ANY stocker match ported or not it's just a huge waste of time unless of course it was a certain Stock class of racing that requires a stock manifold ..But every Small block responds well to high performance aluminum head's ....
that might be true for single planes like this but an RPM dual plane for my car out the box flows 220cfm
most TF TW 170 heads flow like 250 @.500.
im not putting a victor Jr on that as that stock flows 270+ and why would i need one on a 10:1 302?! Id put a port match performer on it. if they know what they're doing it should ALSO flow about 250 when its done but port alignment is ALWAYS important. not just how much something flows off the shelf.
nothing is ever aligned off the shelf and also there will be less flow scatter if you have a hand porter work their magic. thats exactly why they charge anywhere from 200-800+ a manifold.
the racers will agree with me even though im just a stocker for now. it depends on what you re trying to do. a street car needs less of this. you could put brodix ST5.0 185s or AFR 185's?TW 11R 190s off the shelf on this engines and a victor jr and theyll flow about the same at around 280-CFM which is a lot even for a stroker
Flow measurements are for comparisons. Actual engine running conditions are often quite different.
Think about it.
MrHazel
Spec flow values above 55%, tend to make soggy street driveability.
Eg.
302 x 55%= 165 cfm.
Bigger heads and flow values increase rpm capability but make em pretty soggy below 3500.
Most of us are NOT DRIVING DYNOS.
Michael Laverty, please tell me which manufacturer ever used an Edlebrock Victor Jr on any production model engine, and in what vehicles was it offered? In addition, since when was a Victor Jr not a high performance intake manifold?
@@hotrodray6802 Huh?!
i guarantee you none of those cars set up the correct way are soft down low.
a lot of people have put AFR 185s and TW 11r 190s on 302s and picked up EVERYWHERE so big heads and soggy bottom end is a myth for the most part
i bet not everyone understands the " gasket impression" process you are talking about in the first 2. 30 minutes........
thumbs down for that
Lmfao