Can You Repaint Windows Without Priming?
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2024
- How I set out to find the easiest way to repaint my windows - using Zinsser ALLCOAT - and how I got on. Can you repaint windows without priming?
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0:00 Introduction
0:57 Why Zinsser Allcoat?
2:28 Prepwork
7:35 The Installation
9:53 Conclusions
13:36 Subscribe to Me!
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#repaint #windows #diy - Навчання та стиль
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An important and often overlooked consideration for water based exterior paints in spring and autumn is, not just the temperature, but also the humidity levels. Most shouldn't be applied above 80% (85% in Allcoats case according to tech specs) as they will not dry and can in some cases begin to run and separate overnight, making a mess of the finish and will also potentially affect the adhesion too.
I’ve been using all Zinsser products for years. I had never had an issue and it lasts so well. I love that it is tintable too.
The Mould Resistant white is the best interior wood paint ever! Brilliant stuff!
I love watching this. Charlie, You're always so honest about the mistakes and I always learn from them. Thank you so much!
Love what you do Charlie! What a massive DIY ‘guru’ you are.
Best wishes. David
As is typical, Charlie, you pack this video with thoroughly useful info throughout, with the added bonus input from the wider community. Got a small-ish inside front door and window repainting project lined up for Spring ‘24 and the learning gleaned from here will be applied to that. Keep ‘em coming - I’m learning so much and gaining so much confidence from your channel. Thank you. Again.
These guides are always helpful and interesting. Even if i'm not planning to do what you're doing in them :)
Thanks Charlie, another real world scenario many of us face so good to hear both your views and experience and also that of your many subscriber comments !
I bought some of this myself recently, but haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet, look forward to hearing what you did with the door !
Very nice video. Enjoyable and informative as always. Looks like you've got months of work ahead of you!
I LOVE Zinsser AllCoat. Had it colour-matched at Brewers to a bold Little Greene colour and it is identical. Used well on soffits and also on back door where my dogs scratch and it hasn’t been ruined at all. Thinking of using on kitchen units where water-based paint has worn away.
Great video Charlie !!!!!! thank you
I've used Allcoat on glossy kitchen cabinets and our front door and a gate. All have held up really well. The kitchen cabinets in particular, 2 years on and they still look great. I did give them a light sand but it was really light.
Hi Charlie,I used same water based white paint zine, as yourself 3years ago on my brown wooden windows, when I purchased the paint, I also bought the glue primer that zine also recommend and supply,I gave the windows two coats of each and they still look good ,also very nice paint to work with,I will be getting it again as lovely to work with no strong paint smells i think just with the corner on your Window as no paints normally cover silicone only acrylic based silicone I think , thanks for your demo
A few years ago we painted our upvc front door with allcoat satin waterbased in f&b oval room blue, it was such a transformation and held up really well. The beauty with finishing it yourself is that when someone does damage it with a tesco crate for example, you can recoat the whole door in about half an hour.
I've recently done my window frames in Bedec MSP - again, amazing transformation. 320grit light sand first, cleaned with sugar soap, then brushed on. It dries so quickly in the summer (will try with floetrol next time) sprayed would be excellent also. It's worth really cleaning the rubber seals and lightly coating in silicone grease, prevents them binding overnight with the cured paint 👍🏻
Hey Charlie...thanks for the mention!
I have pvc windows and i watched the whole thing. Love this channel
Ditto
thanks Charlie , another great video
Thanks Malcolm, really appreciate the comment. 👊
I was surprised silicone wss used as glass beading instead of window putty.
Another great video.
Nice work again Charlie.
I've used Zinsser Allcoat on my timber windows. It is extremely good, and showing no signs of peel or wear two years later.
As a paint it is quite thin, and really requires 3 coats to obtain good coverage. Although the 1 hour recoat time means this is not an issue. It's especially good for external doors, where you are unable to leave them open for long periods for the paint to cure.
I also have some timber windows coated in Dulux Weathershield. The items painted with Dulux move significantly (large gaps in summer, catching in winter). The Zinsser windows also move, but no where near to the same extent as the Dulux. Whether this is down to breathability of the paint I'm unsure, but Zinsser seems to stabilise the timber better.
I've even successfully coated Zinsser paint (with bulls eye 123 primer) over Osmo oil, albeit with a very good sand. Zinsser technical dept told me they could not recommend, but it was my best option, and worked a treat.
Great video
Can confirm that Allcoat is a great product. I used it on masonry, a metal garage door and the wood frame around it. No sanding just a wire brush to remove flakes and then a good clean. I think it's been on about 6 years now, the masonry is just starting the show signs of degradation where it gets a lot of rain and sun near the ground, so that will probably need doing soon, the masonry higher up still looks perfect. Door frame also looks pretty good, probably need doing again in a couple of years, the metal garage door is honestly looking great and has only needed a few touch ups where I have had trouble with some small rust spots coming through, once treated and painted though they seem to be ok.
Hi Charlie.
Your little booklet you’ve had for years has now been replaced with the Zinseer app.
Goes through loads of Zinseer products and even tells you how best to deal with certain substrates😁
Primer - Sadolin Classic is what I always use for wood.
I used Jotun Demidekk last year on all my windows. Ideally, this doesn't need a primer but it has bubbled in a couple of places where I didn't.
I had problems with the allcoat on the capping stones on my mother-in-law's wall. I couldn't shift the existing paint with a heat gun and scraping just removed small brittle chips. This product seemed ideal. The wall was dried(quite a damp day), sanded and wiped down. The temperature was around 10C so at the limit. I gave it 2 coats allowing 2.5hrs between coats due to the temperature. It looked great. Next day I'm in trouble because areas were flaking, taking the existing paint with them and also a burst bubble type effect all over except for a small area I'd managed to strip. After seeing your reviews I'm guessing user error but not clear where I went wrong or how to fix in the current temperatures.
When I did mine I ended uo going for Bedec MSP, which it seams is pretty much just like the All Coat. So good that it goes on virtually anything without hardly or no prep! Something I learned, you cant get away with cheap brushes, it needs to not be messed with and a cheap brush doesn't hold enough to stop it from dragging almost instantly.
BTW, never try to use a cyclone mixer that you have bent = messy mistake!
I’m a Zinsser fan-boy. I sprayed a good bit of the interior of the house with Allcoat exterior. Two coats with an airless sprayer. It’s the best paint finish I’ve ever had. Also, have a look a Bedec Barn Paint. It too goes straight on, covers amazingly well, and it looks bullet proof. (I’ve only used it on outdoor furniture / garden room doors - I think the paint will hold up very well indeed.)
As in your ceilings and walls or just woodwork? Exterior paint shouldn't be used inside because of the biocides
Everywhere mate. I’ve (now) read the Safety Data Sheet - we should be fine as long as can resist licking the walls. Even if we cannot resist licking the walls, I’m not troubled by anything in the Safety Data Sheet. We have the Zinsser permanent white paint in lots of places too. It uses the same biocides as the Allcoat Exterior. Even Zinsser don’t say “don’t use it indoors” - I’m sure they would if it was a problem. @@Garage_GymRat
Zinnser say it can be used inside too@@Garage_GymRat
@Garage_GymRat it's for interior or exterior. ...
I did the gable end fascia boards in 2016: sanded it back to wood, spot primed the knots with Zinsser BIN, primed it all with Bullseye, then 2 coats of Allcoat gloss water based with a bit of Floetrol added as it dried really quickly. Still holding up well now
Zinnzer bin is only for interior use
@@staffh3815 Well, their UK website says (direct quote):
“Product Overview
B-I-N® is the ultimate shellac-based primer, sealer and stain killer. It is perfect for use on interior surfaces and spot priming of exterior surfaces”
I used it for spot priming, so it’s all good
You should really look how we do things here in Holland. I made Merantie windows myself and use a A-brand paint (Sikkens), also use a paintable sealer. As a Diyer there is nothing I love more than to make windows and doors. Keep up the good work!!
Thanks buddy. We could learn a lot from you guys! Sikkens is a quality brand. 👍
👍👍👍.Thank you
I like to give everything a good scrubbing (with scrub brush) of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) before applying another paint. TSP however is phosphate and banned in some places - I get that - but it works well! Good Foam guns are great - Nice project.
I personally don’t trust anything that says recoat in one hour and prefer to wait out the drying between coats. Used to have a preference for oil paints but to honest I have found that good Latex paints are wonderful. You probably could have got a liquid mask for the glazing and sprayed the lot.
This is precisely the type of thing that keeps me going back to oil based paints. The quick drying time of waterbased is soon forgotten when the durability isn’t there
Having painted a garage door 6 years ago in (RAL7001 - Silver Grey) for a friend, I can vouch for Zinnser AllCoat. It was a pleasure to spray some kitchen units with it as well, and the 7 day cure time is important.
Thanks mate and good to hear from you. Yes I'll try and plan around that 7 day cure time next time I use it.
Just a Tip whenever you're removing the Masking Tape, pull the Tap off at 45 degrees past the 90 Degree angle this offers the best chance of not ripping off the fresh paint as there less contact with the paint as the contact with the paint seems to have a smaller surface area to contact with i use ScotchBlue Blue masking tape and this is a Joy to lay down and remove , giving you a great sharp edge and wont bleed at the edge and you can leave it up for several days... SORTED... Great Upload.
Such a good tip. Thanks for that mate. 👊 I'll get some Scotch Blue too. 👌
I sprayed some IKEA wardrobe doors with Zinsser BIN earlier this year after sanding the surface first. I followed up with paint weeks later and then fit the doors weeks after that. When I drilled for the handles I put a small amount of Frogtape in place to mark before drilling, but after lifting the tape I found the entire paint surface (paint + primer) was lifting around each drilled hole. I know that Zinsser seem to have a great reputation but equally I don't understand why a primer would lift so easily off the underlying surface. For the record, I did a test of paint directly onto the wardrobe surface vs paint onto primer before I started. Without leaving it to cure I could definitely scrape the paint off the surface with a fingernail more easily on the non-primed surface as you'd expect.
You left the primer too long before over coating with finish coats....
Good video. Instead of modern paint switch to linseed paint, they will last 3 times longer and will protect the wood
Regards
Hi Charlie, thanks for all the help! Wondering if you can assist. I have had a wall that is prone to condensation re plastered. I have done 2 mist coats. Can I prime the walls with a damp seal primer before I paint my top coat? Thanks :-)
Mate should have sprayed them! They would look ace.
Might have been better to prime with zinsser bin, it’s great stuff
I appreciate this makes for a good video, but you said that the company you purchased the windows from you instructed them on a specific colour and what they sent you was different so the error was on them. Couldn't they have replaced for you?
What colour is your new one Charlie?
Pro decorator here, bedec msp all the time for me, whether inside or out
I used this product in October , the weather was ok at that time , but we have had masses of rain since then ….ive just been and had a look at the windows and the cill is all cracked and I ran my thumb against it and the paint just came off . I wish I’d used the solvent based product , but had heard that wood needs to breathe and that water based is the way forward . As it’s a scaffold job I wanted it to last . I could cry !! As now is definitely not the time to paint and the scaffold will have to come down in the new year . Any suggestions ?
What mortar gun did you use?
A painted a conservatory in London that had wooden windows with glass siliconed in like this, the builders wouldn’t believe me about paint not sticking to it, they made me paint upto the glass! Guess what happened!
Zinsser BIN (RED tin) all day long, is it expensive Yes, but my sticking point with decorating is a hate doing and therefore I hate doing it twice even more. I have very little bandwidth for decorating just want something that works 1st time.
Bin interior only....
Allcoat do a useful App and the solvent version.
Why not go for upvc windows? Much less faff
All coats the dog baws. We use the matt finish indoors when people want a flat finish on woodwork. Really repels dirt even though has that chalky finish. Goes far too .
I don’t mind painting but I hate having to re coat something I’ve only painted a few years before. When we had our windows replaced we went with upvc for that reason.
Next project is the fence. That’s going to be replaced with plastic panels as I painted with 5 year stuff and had to top up and recoat the next year and the following year as bare wood was showing through. Life’s too short, I’d rather pay once and not paint again
Time to invite us all over so we can finish your house in one day 😂🎉
Hi you can download a pdf
Hi Charlie Are you not able to use UPVC windows ?, just thinking of the future maintenance you will be faced with . And although you are obviously now young fit and handsome 😂 , this can in later life become a chore. 👍
Where did you get the paint from? No link in the description
Johnstone's Decorators Centre. I'll update the Description.
If they painted the wrong colour why did you accept them ?
Thanks Charlie
I have hardwood windows , had big problems with getting paint to stay stuck , ive isscovered the only thing that sticks is car body underseal ,spray on , kind of self levels , magic lasts years . I tried everthing else ,sick of painting the bloody things
Don't use sand and cement to bed timber it will rot the timber lime putty then from bare timber knotting the knots use linseed putty or lime putty for any filling 2 pack wont last it will just crack when the wood flexes then 3 coats linseed paint thinning the first coat with turpentine and raw linseed oil 2-3 days between coats wont crack or peel and won't rot the timber it will just wear away through UV making future re decs much more straight forward and cheaper thats what was always used but a lead version before 1920's they use zinc now instead of lead. That zinsser all coat water based won't last a year
Windows were already painted...linseed oil paint like bare timber best... but you should know that Jack, also 1hr re- coat v 2 / 3 days did you watch the vid?
@@englishdecorator yes 3 day recoat always even in summer strip the the timber then a primer coat of linseed paint raw linseed oil and turpentine but linseed paints can suffer from mould and algae growth now they use zinc instead of lead for fungicide. If i can I go down the route of stripping the timber knot 1-2 coats of owatrol oil and 2-3 coats of owatrol deco best modern system but very costly
I thought windows have to be installed by FENSA approved window fitters or be checked & signed-off by building control?
Not on outbuildings....and tbh some of the windows and doors installed by fensa fitters in a house I renovated( prior to me buying it ) were beyond shocking
This dude always has lots work to do round his gaff. Bte all coat good gear does the job
I'm surprised about CT1 fail actually
Yes I spoke to the team at CT1 and they were aware of the issue with UV rotting the silicone. Whether they've resolved it or not I don't know. I'd never use it again outside though.
@@CharlieDIYte if they are aware, why their product (currently looking at CT1 white sealant that I have) clearly states "UV RESISTANT" on it?
Thanks for pointing this out though, I won't be using it for outside as well.
Also it's performance "under water" (another claim they are making) isn't that great either as it didn't work well for me when I tried applying to a clean wet surface.
I usually highly rate zinsser products but this one was not great, the paint wouldn't lay flat and its peeling off one year on. Even after careful and thouough surface prepping.
I used this to paint my wooden bay windows....it is without a doubt the worst paint I have ever used. It was impossible to get a smooth finish and it hasn't lasted well at all. Usually I'm a Zinnser fan, but this was very disappointing.
I had a similar experience with my windows, the paint was impossible to get to lay flat and 1 year on its peeling everywhere. I was really careful with my preparation too.
Sugar soap wipes...haha
I was enjoying watching this video, but sadly I had to stop due to the blasphemy... 😓😓
You cant repaint windows, but you can repaint window frames
😂😂😂
Excellent
The pedantry that keeps me on my toes 😩😉
Can be applied to glass without sanding 😂
Really? What stops you?
Window and door companies are utterly useless.