62TE Rebuild part 4
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- Опубліковано 14 бер 2020
- In part 4 we load in the compounder assembly, main geartrain, input drum and pump. Hope everyone is enjoying this series of videos. Off to the shop for a while. Thanks for watching
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@GarryFerraro Sup! Just wanna say thank you for making these videos. I solved the problems that i had with my Dodge Journey transmission because of your videos. May God continue to bless you. Your videos are very well-made and professionals! By the way, I am from Brazil 🇧🇷
Great job . I enjoy your videos and your amazing knowledge on the job .
Thanks for watching
Amazing clean job , like always, Sir
Good morning and thank you for part 4. If I lived anywhere near your shop I would have happily paid you to do my trans. Unfortunately All the shops in my area have a terrible reputation. I am not a mechanic but every big project I have ever taken on I've had great success. I look at it like it's just a big 140+ piece puzzle that you can do in stages. I want to shake you hand so if you could just imagine that for a moment. Me shaking your hand and you feeling how grateful I truly am for your help. You don't know me but I would gladly try to return the favor so to speak if I could. I wish you and your family well in these trying times.
Thank you so much, so far we are all ok
Excellent video! Perfect quality of video, 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻.
Thank you my friend
GOOD VIDEO...Had a front sun gear thrust bearing come out and brea in my 6l80....got a new one...put,everything back in,...will fire it,up,shortly
Gracias Gary you are very nice. I said hola from Logan UT.
Great series Gary! Nice to see the assembly methods with Trans Gel. Years ago we used Vaseline.
TakeCare, covid-19 is getting everywhere.
Bill
It sure is, stay safe
coolest comest mechanic i have ever seen
Mark Fiorella Thanks Mark
Thank u so much this is awesome
Unit is coming together nicely. The remainder will go fast now. Thanks Gary, see you next week!
Gracias good video
Gary, where are you applying air at 24:30 in the video to engage the clutch pack? You do a great job at explaining what you are doing.
Thank you
When standing up the case as he is doing, he is putting air in a hole , inside another hole where the valve body goes
Great set of videos. Very thorough. I recently rebuilt mines from a 2014 town-n-country. Smooth sailing with the rebuild. I replaced everything I could with new. Full mopar rebuild including new valve body. Oem pump. After filling the trans with some fluid and letting it run I noticed fluid coming from the pump side. Has anyone had this issue? Not sure if it's coming from the pump seal or the torque converter welds. Trans is back out and the seal doesn't look damaged. I'm going to have my local transmission shop run a pressure test on the torque converter. Not sure if there could be another underlying issue that I'm not seeing.
Thank you, Gary.
Thanks for watching
Hi Mr. Ferraro,
I got a plethora of knowledge and courage from your videos rebuilding 62te. I have disassembled my 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan’s transmission and found the severed drum.
I wonder how do you clean your case and other parts. What kind of chemical or degreaser can I use use to super clean the case and other parts of the transmission.
Many thanks for a series of great videos.
I have a big parts washer with a special soap, you can always get a case of brake kleen and use that to clean parts and case or mineral spirits
It is one thing to have the knowledge and skill to do this work. You also have the ability to communicate the job clearly enough to follow it and explain each step, you have a gift sir. Question for you: I have a 4.0L 62TE FWD 2007 Chrysler Pacifica. I was at a light and upon acceleration I heard a wham like I hit a curb and barely got it off the road and then it would go more. lots of noise in gears and neutral. Found the motor mounts were broken while beginning the job. Is it possible for the differential to be the culprit? Looking for a rebuilt most likely. But watching your vids is very interesting. I have rebuilt transfer cases and old manual trannies many years ago.
very possible the geartrain may have blown
Thank you
Have you ever done the trans on saturn sl2 I think its the taat or mp7 not sure maybe got a vid I couldn't find
How many transmissions do you do in a week, Gary?
Gary I have a 2000 Maxima and when I went to change the filter there were bolts or screws which came off easily however, there was one stud coming down with a nut. This stud is spinning so I couldn't get the nut off to remove the filter. Now I'm sure I can get the nut off and change the filter but I wonder if the stud is stripped out of if there was a nut on the other end. Do not want to remove the valve body to find out. Any thoughts and should I be concerned when I won't be able to tighten this stud down? Thanks and of coarse I really think the vids are great.
It's not a stud, it is a bolt, have to try to put pressure on it when you tighten it, really shouldn't be a problem to tighten
Hey What size of socket did you use to put on the big bolt?
Muito bom
Would like to see what kind of silcon sealet you use and how you apply soo no leaks. A lot of folks get this wrong.
Just use the black rtv i get from transtar
I’ve been finding the output plant shim damage on some units and doing some damage to the compounder Assembly,possible from heavy load and over temp in the Denver area, Mountain area.
Wow, never really seen that, the ones i get are basically Caravans and Town&country
Gary Ferraro , our Road have a 15 degree decline then you have to drive up the road,some people do this every day , It always interesting .
Gary , great description as with all your re-builds .Gary do you ever experience any oil or filter contamination through the use of grease on your rebuilds
@@gsmith5865 Not with the Trans Gel, as soon as the trans heats up, the grease melts away, really good stuff
@@JimGLopez67 Are they caravans or something like a Ram Promaster?
Boa noite meus parabéns pelo excelente trabalho
i realize it is kind of randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to stream new series online ?
@Keaton Nixon lately I have been using Flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
@Hassan Roland Definitely, been using flixzone for years myself =)
@Hassan Roland Thanks, signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it !!
@Keaton Nixon Glad I could help =)
Im not sure i understand how you're doing the clearance check or the air checks. Are the air checks in those 3 metal tubes that connect to the valve body and if so which tube is which clutch packs?
The main input drum i air check through the pump, the compounder assembly gets air checked through the low drum
Hey, Gary.
Do you have a video showing how to do the air checks?
Like the psi and hole location to apply the air?
Thanks for everything!
The 2-4 clutch in particular
e-mail me
gsferraro@yahoo.com and i can send you some info@@mikec2220
@@GaryFerraroI'm about to email you too if that's ok
what port do you put the air in to test the input drum?
Did you ever find out?
Where is Gary’s shop?
What type of brush do you use to apply the blue grease???
i got that brush from snap-on, they no longer sell them, i guess medium bristle
Hello, I have a question, I have a blue spring in my hydraulic accumulators and it is not much longer than many others. Where is this hydraulic accumulator located? I watched your video and all the springs are the same. Blue, no. I have
The accumulators are under the valve body, They are all the same, if you have a blue one probably someone put a shift kit in the trans
Sir gary i subscribed, im one of your followers now, i just want to know, 12:30 the cover torque pls? Thanks
After doing a 62TE rebuild (replaced clutch packs and steels, low clutch housing, all the seals, gaskets and everything) when driving it shifts fine 1-6. But when accelerating from 6th when trying to accelerate I get a harsh shift and a code for the 4th prime gear ratio error. Any suggestions as to what could be the issue?
What is the code number
I have P1741 and P1790.
I’m thinking something to do with the 2-4 clutch. When it occurred I could see with the scan tool it being applied, not applied, applied not applied. Also my CVI value is on the high end for it.
My oil scavenger is broken I cant find any replacements anywhere. The little tab was broken. Any idea where to get one from?
The one that goes over the transfer gears? under the end cover?
@@GaryFerraro yes
@Gary Ferraro i was reading the comment section to see if someone else mentioned the same issue. Think you said it would still work, the cover will hold it in place.
@@mlacher100 correct, cover will hold it
@Gary Ferraro thank you, and thanks for making the video! I would of never attempted it without it!
Hi, I have a problem with the low drum part, broken drum on the edge. what is the probable cause of this problem? Thank You.
I'm thinking the cause of that problem is a faulty Lin pressure control solenoid possibly causing pressure spikes breaking the drum, you may want to change the solenoid pack, while you are in there change out the TCC solenoid too, they have a high failure rate
@@GaryFerraro Thanks Gary Ferraro, when measuring the resistance of the Solenoids we found that the Underdrive solenoid measured 2.4ohm and the Baixa solenoid was 2.0ohm. Do you believe that was the problem?
@@andregustavonicolodi7241 They should all ohm the same, if one is 2.0 and one is 2.4 that is no good
Hi Gary, I have a question about the oil scavenger installed at 11'46'', I got it broken so didn't install it, is it critical? Thanks a lot
I thinks it helps with lube, if the tabs are broken off and it can just fit in place, i would install it, the back cover will hold it in place
@@GaryFerraro thanks!
@@GaryFerraro I throwed it away and not sure how critical if let transmission running without this part. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you very much!
Have a 2006 Chevy 3500 4L80E that has melted all of electrical components on 2 rebuilds, can U give an answer to why this is happening?
This trans has to be getting way to hot, has anyone checked cooler flow? anything else bad in the trans? what is the condition of the fluid? Original trans being built? how long before the solenoids get damaged?
Gary Ferraro coustomer drove 2nd rebuild 59 miles when second burn up. Occourred
New fluid was burnt , new clutches were ok
@@markmason4847 Same issue plastic was melted? did you check cooler flow?
Got a '15 Caravan and on a cold start, backing out of our spot and putting it in drive gives you a hard shift. What do you think the issue might be?
sounds like high pressure, you should scan for codes
@@GaryFerraro Thank you. I just scanned for codes and it has zero DTC's.
what type of scanner did you use@@dealerauctionnightmare4689
@@GaryFerraro I used my Autel and my Thinktool Pros.
I have the Thinktool pro as well, great scanner. Warmed up it's ok? is the engine idling to high?@@dealerauctionnightmare4689
Did you manage to spin the tranny by hand at 41:06 ? For me its butter smooth until i torque the bolts down to 20ft/lbs. Then i cant spin the tranny by hand at all unless i use the vise grips. Is that normal?
are you talking the input shaft?
@GaryFerraro Yes, for a second, it looks like you actually got it to rotate by hand. I tried to do the same, but no luck. I used a small vise grip for extra leverage and got it to rotate. After I loosened up the 6 bolts again, i managed to rotate it by hand, no problem. Is this normal? 🤔 if it's not, I'll take the pump out and re inspect the rings. I've watched your videos over and over to ensure im doing this job right. I appreciate what you have done for us with these videos
@GaryFerraro Update! Reseated the input drum and gave it a couple of spins. Then re lube the rings, put the pump back on and torque it back down to 20ft lbs. I can spin it by hand now. Feels great! This is a trial and error for me since its my first time rebuilding a tranny. I cannot appreciate enough your help with these videos! Your are the man Gary! Thank you!
something is not down all the way, there may be a clutch out somewhere, should not do that@@JesusColon1989
WHAT IS THE TRANSTEC PART# OF THE KIT FOR 62TE?
I can get you the part number of a Transtec banner kit from a company called Transtar(this is who i purchase my parts from
@@GaryFerraro
Ok thanks
Sir the bypass volve going were ?
Bypass valve goes in the case, right before the pump goes in, you will see the spot
@@GaryFerraro ya and the floid goving witch place from the pump on bypass way
Soak your clutch discs overnight in ATF before install.
I actually do not but never had a problem
@@GaryFerraro curious about this my self. I was always taught to soak them, even in 62te class at Chrysler. Granted, I've never professionally worked on transmissions, and at the dealer we had a guy... curious on your thoughts on why not to soak them? Makes sense to me either way.
@@MegaMarclar . That may be what is recommended but it's really my choice as a rebuilder, i never really had any problems in the past, some of the clutch disc'c i get in the banner kits come presoaked already
Hi again. I'm having issues locating the correct kit for my 62TE. I have the 4.0L engine and when I add the drivetrain to website filters, I get a message that the kits are not compatible with my 2009 van. Not sure how the engine displacement affects which kit. Is there a difference between kits for different engines? the local dealer says kit number 68272623AB but doesn't know if it's engine specific. I found a Transtec kit #2541. would you happen to know the right kit for my 4.0L? thank you very much in advance
Not sure of the Transtec part numbers but the kits are all the same
@@GaryFerraro thank you
Hi! where is your workshop?
I'm In New York on Long Island
My low reverse clutches have a small tooth but I don't see where it matters that that small tooth goes and I don't hear you say anything about it either and I can't find anything else online about it other than chat gpt says the small tooth is used for correct orientation but I can't see how
clutch plate or steel plate?
@@GaryFerraro clutch plate
@@benlundgren9955 does not matter with the clutch plate
@@GaryFerraro that's good! We did some more digging online and came.tonthe conclusion it probably didn't matter. The thickness was correct and the only ones of that thickness in the master overhaul kit we had.
Just finished putting it all together, new torque converter and all about 5/10 minutes before posting this comment. 100% followed your teardown and rebuilt and honestly could not have done it without them. Thank you! Now to put it back in the van tomorrow afternoon!
@@GaryFerraro oh, 1 more thing, and maybe I'll find this out tomorrow as we put it back up. Replaced all 3 sensors, input, output and transfer, but I also have a spot for a 4th sensor and I didn't see one on the one you were working on. Wondering if it's a sensor from underneath the van...? Or just a blank space, I don't remember if we took anything off there. Van has been apart for 2 mo. Been a long project.
HELP! Gary, and anyone feel free to chime in- i have reassembled a few transmissions myself in the past and im concerned of this rebuild-
1) i reassembled the compounder, replaced the drum and clutches etc, from Mopar kit but after the compounder's snaprings are installed and back race torx bolts on the drum *SHOULD THERE BE ANY IN/OUT PLAY? like when you grabbed it by the large final assy nut to drop in will the shaft jostle a bit in/out? idk if that play is necessary hi/lo movement.
2) i havent the luxury of removing the trans from vehicle for vertical reinsertion of the compounder- i removed it from the side cover as the nut/gear comes off, and IT LOOKS LIKE im hitting 1/4" from flush enough to install snap-ring. this obviously has to be a gearing/bearing mesh issue on the planetary-to-compounder... how can i get this reassembled and know the proper surfaces are mated? do i simply have to remove the trans pan and filter to rotate gears?
thanks for the solution guys. im in 100* colorado fields trying to button this up. great material Gary. cheers.
No up and down play. When i install the compounder, i have to use a mallet to knock it down to install the snap ring
@@GaryFerraro is there a subtle shaft in/out play? I've got it installed and see the snapping wear marks show it's a beveled edge which lined up nice when tapped the compounder in place. If* snapping is on and seated fully- can I be sure* the compounder has been placed proper? I wouldn't want to have wedged it by force. The compounder and wheels all turn and feel in contact.
@@shaeythielke so you dropped in the compounder and tapped it down til the snap ring groove showed? if so that is fine
@@GaryFerraro absolutely. Thanks a ton, excellent content and remarkable response time when it REALLY matters. Thanks again.
Now rebuilding solenoid pack, to get 2-4 solenoid OEM and TCC solenoid.
@@shaeythielke Let me know how it goes, you chose not to replace the solenoid pack?
Good afternoon. In your video, when you assemble the transmission from 21:40, you can see in detail how many disks you put in before installing the retaining ring. I can’t figure out which of you is doing it wrong. I watched a video from another mechanic on the same transmission. It has 5 friction discs and then a lock washer. And you have 4. How right? here is the link to that video starting at 55:20ua-cam.com/video/ROE336z02Ew/v-deo.htmlsi=M6lCehF1bHzr0T3g
There are a total of 9 frictions, 5 low/reverse and 4 2/4 clutch. I heard him say 10 frictions but there are only 9
disregard
There’s a reason why there are torque specs. The fact that you are acting like it’s whatever, why would anyone use you?
what didn't i torque down?