Really appreciate being able to watch a tutorial with a saw with the blade on the left side. You illustrated/demonstrated several things that the manual and righties neglected. Thanks! I just purchased this system and now have considerably more confidence to begin using it tomorrow.
Thanks for the video. I found this very helpful. I have a similar saw and needed to make these adjustments but directions weren't detailed enough. Thanks again.
@@aaronfixesstuff I agree! Your video is the best at demonstrating how to do it. I was quite confused how hard it was to find where best to attach the sled tightening screws to my Makita base plate. Tightening them tended to push the base away from the stop in the sled. Just seeing what you had to do to find a good position for your circular saw was helpful. Once I figured that out, the rest was easy. Not having any experience with a track saw, your video helped me set it up right. By comparison, the Kreg videos were not very helpful. Good job! 👏
Recently purchased this kit and finally yesterday I needed it to break down a few large sheets of material. Having previously used straight edges as well as the Kreg sled that does the smaller (under 24") cuts, I had already gone thru the sled to saw set up. Using this larger rig meant (now having two sleds) meant I would install my full size circular saw for the larger need. Your explanation was better detailed regarding the 32nd" to be removed from the blue edge. The other video I previously watched made it unclear, meaning the actual plastic sled surface was the surface being shaved, which seemed really wrong. But when I looked at your vid it was specified in a way that was crystal clear. The DUH, factor did make me feel like I was on the slow side, but not wanting to f up meant I wanted certainty. But what completely upsets me is the track itself can't be made stationary with clamps. 1. The launch pad part, the slip-in blue dock, isn't locked, so the slightest nudge, and it's askew. The actual first hugely bad issue was straight out of the sealed package, my kit was short two set screws for the track, and Kregs web site had no apparent way to resolve that, which would've meant waiting days/weeks for them to possibly mail a couple tiny screws. But going to the local Ace/TrueValue was needed, and neither stores had the correct part, so a 3rd store Menards, was next, and while a suitable screw was found, it needed to be shortened. Problem solved, though a PITA. 2. The issue of securing the track meant my very first pass with the saw, the bris, for the zero clearance was f'd up because the track shifted!!!! 3. Repeat of 2. on most subsequent cuts, requiring my returning to using the much lest costly Bora cutting guide. Do you have any suggestions for this issue? I have looked online but I seem to be the only dipshit having this perhaps. Thx in advance
z3dsdead thanks for the positive feedback, and glad to help! I felt like there were no good videos, so I made one. I totally agree on the launch pad part. I had the same issue with it. As far as clamping it, what I noticed was that if the rubber on the bottom gets dusty, it tends to slide.
@@aaronfixesstuff TENDS to? I was working on a sheet of 3/4 MDF. I certainly considered dust. The tool was fresh from the package. The immediate, obvious dust was brushed away. The KREG product line seems to be quite good overall. Overpriced, to be sure, though I'm a patron of the idea cheap tools are priced as such that good or great tools will be off the shelf at the places people who need them shop. Sell them enough shit, and some will not only spend more, but they'll spend MORE
Hi, not sure if you’ve discovered this yet, but thought I would share just in case. My husband and I were having a similar issue with the accucut slipping mid cut, kreg sells clamps for the accucut on their site (I’ll leave the link below). We’ve had a few other issues with the accucut, but the clamps have since fixed the slipping issue. www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/track-clamps/KMS7520.html
Thank you for not nerding things up! Three videos I had to watch before yours! Each one of them started nerding out but failed to keep it simple so the dumb guy in the back could follow along! 😂
I would NOT count on using the starting block on a square board and ending up with a square board AFTER the cut. The straightness of the cut looked great but I would make indicator marks for the cut. The instructions say “Mark the cutline on your workpiece.” Thanks for making this video. It was a big help with setup!
In none of the other videos mention that you actually have to cut the blue plastic ribbon that comes out of the aluminum guide first. Interesting, thank you!
The written instructions do (sort of), but they are simply horribly written written instructions. Their own video leaves this step out. They should be paying Aaron to make the instruction video.
Hi I have a Milwaukee 6.5 inch circular saw, it might be similar to yours. I found that one of the clamps (the far side) pushes the foot of the away. I also found I can’t cut the blue guide strip when I setup my saw with the saw guard freely moving rather than in the up position always. I read that the guard has to be able to freely move once setup. Did you have this problem with your setup?
Jun Vasquez that is correct unfortunately. The guard does have to be in the “up” position. I will say that the Milwaukee saw is not a great fit for this jig. It works, but nothing wow about it. I still like that it grips the work surface, but it is far from ideal. Also did you try moving the clamp to the other hole like I did?
Thanks for the quick reply, I am using the two inside holes for the clamp. Tempted to file the corner edge of the foot plate of the saw touching the clamp but I just adjusted carefully the clamp height instead and made sure the clamp does not push the plate away. I still need to solve the cutting blue strip problem with guard able to move down, for my own safety as I am still newbie to woodworking. Thanks for the video.
At the beginning you mention you had a diy track or a door board that was thrown out. Cost and convenience, how does the accu-cut compare to a diy track and is it worth the added cost? The benefits I see to the accu-cut is the gripy bottom doesn't require setting up clamps and the track keeps the saw in line. Whereas with a diy board you would have to pay attention to keeping the saw fence square to jig. Lastly, a diy jig could be built for free with scrap material and can be made ad hoc if you change saws or blade thicknesses. Oh and you dont have to take the minute to attach the guide if it was detached. That all being said, im very tempted to buy the accu-cut.
Honestly, I don’t use the accu cut anymore. I found it to be a pain. The homemade jig does have a disadvantage, that it does not grip well. The shoe was really testing me, and it does not fit nicely on the milwaukee saw.
No problem! So after 6 months, I’m back to the jig I built myself. I was not happy with the way the saw sat in the sled. Also, it was a pain to keep on putting on the shoe and taking it off. And yes. It’s a fuel 6 1/2.
I don't understand how big of a pain it could be to put the saw back on the plate. I mean all you have to do is put it under this two screws and buttered up against the stop button on the left on your setup tighten down two screws you're on your way, how much easier could it really be?
Can you do 45 degree bevel cuts with this? I want to make a french cleat system but free handing an 8 foot long 45 degree cut with a circular saw is not on my wish list lol.
Mine has movement between sled and track as well, also no one talks about the grey thing on the front of sled, just flops around.! For the money I would not buy it again !
The one question that I cannot get answered- Can you elevate one end of the saw while in the track so that you can make a cut inside a piece of wood? If I want to cut a rectangle within a piece of plywood, can I do that?
No plunge cuts with this setup.. You could get the cut started, or do the whole thing, with a jigsaw. No tear out protection doing this, tho I've heard of a hack where you put painter's tape over where you're cutting to help with the splintering (scoring your cut line with a utility knife also can help). Alternatively, if you're brave and skilled enough you could do the plunges with the circ saw then attach the sled and lay the track and do the cuts that way (starting the cuts mid track wherever you made the initial plunges freehand). Still need a jigsaw (or a hand saw of your preference) to square the corners.
I'm a beginner and my problem is what if I have a board and it is not straight on any of the sides How do I get it straight or can I use this tool to get it straight I'm confused.
Barbra do you have a speed square? If so, find your square and go from there. Does that make sense? You can also butt the starting piece to the edge of your board, that will give you a straight edge to work with.
Barbra awesome. So once you can verify a 90 degree angle using the speed square. Then mark the board using the level, and now you have a straight cut :)
The clear cursor is for the RIP cut jig the gray indicator is for alignment over the track on the right side ( for your saw) it just helps aligning. I noticed you lifting the blade guard. I find the starting point lifts it easily by itself.
Dude, some genuine advice here (yeah, I'm that guy -- but I really want you to keep your eyes and digits). Put on eye protection. Get your finger away from the blade. When you put the saw down, mind where the guard is. As to the jig -- have you noticed any slop in sled as it's sliding on rails? Mine is really bad, 1/16-1/8" easily...
The reason why I disliked your video is because you didn’t swear you didn’t shout, and you didn’t fight anyone, once you have done all these things I would have subscribed to your channel.
@@aaronfixesstuff be careful man. I’ve seen bad things happen when the blade guard isn’t functioning (a VERY serious injury)...and it happens in the blink of an eye.
@@johnharville8007 yeah man. Totally agreed. I am not a fan of the jig and I really only use the one I built now. No shoe needed and setup takes a few seconds.
Is there a saw that will allow you to operate the blade guard? That's my biggest concern is safety and if that's not able to be achieved then the product is a waste.
@@gailharris8316 pretty sure it can work properly with this saw (and most saws for that matter). I just think the creator of this video didn’t place that stop block properly.
Thanks, this was a lot better than the Kreg instructions.
I agree! Their instructions were not very clear, and the videos I saw were not too helpful either. Glad to help!
My saw is exactly the same as the one used in the video so I found this video very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to film it.
I’m glad to help! Thanks for taking the time to provide the feedback!
Really appreciate being able to watch a tutorial with a saw with the blade on the left side. You illustrated/demonstrated several things that the manual and righties neglected. Thanks! I just purchased this system and now have considerably more confidence to begin using it tomorrow.
Thanks for the feedback William. And I absolutely agree! I was not able to find a good demonstration of the jig!!
Good facilitation: Clear instruction and demonstration. You got it buddy. Thanks a lot to you and your assistant.
Thanks for the feedback! I saw so many reviews that were not helpful, I decided to make one that addressed what others didn’t :)
The best. Hands down. Thanks for the thorough info video.
Great video. Easy to understand and step by step instructions; as specified in the title of this video. Thank you.
Hi Raj, I appreciate you taking the time to comment and support the channel. Glad you found the instructions to be helpful :)
Happy new year!
@@aaronfixesstuff Happy New Year to you and your channel viewers too.
Thank you! You answered all of my questions. You just gained a subscriber 🙂
Awesome!! I’m glad I was able to get your questions answered, and I appreciate every new subscriber. Thank you Nalleli!!
Great explanation, esp for a newbie like me. Thank you!
Great feedback, thanks! I try to make my videos detailed enough for anyone to follow :)
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for making this video!
Glad to help Luis!!
Thanks for the video. I found this very helpful. I have a similar saw and needed to make these adjustments but directions weren't detailed enough. Thanks again.
Glad to help! When I bought it I was so frustrated that none of the instruction videos were clear enough and decided to change that!
You’re welcome!!
Great video. Love from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thanks!! And thank you for sharing where you are from. It’s always interesting to know where viewers are from :)
Very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
For sure! I was so frustrated that I couldn’t find a single video that provided a good tutorial. Glad you liked it!!
@@aaronfixesstuff I agree! Your video is the best at demonstrating how to do it. I was quite confused how hard it was to find where best to attach the sled tightening screws to my Makita base plate. Tightening them tended to push the base away from the stop in the sled. Just seeing what you had to do to find a good position for your circular saw was helpful. Once I figured that out, the rest was easy. Not having any experience with a track saw, your video helped me set it up right. By comparison, the Kreg videos were not very helpful. Good job! 👏
Thank you so much. You just helped me assemble my Accucut!
Recently purchased this kit and finally yesterday I needed it to break down a few large sheets of material. Having previously used straight edges as well as the Kreg sled that does the smaller (under 24") cuts, I had already gone thru the sled to saw set up. Using this larger rig meant (now having two sleds) meant I would install my full size circular saw for the larger need. Your explanation was better detailed regarding the 32nd" to be removed from the blue edge. The other video I previously watched made it unclear, meaning the actual plastic sled surface was the surface being shaved, which seemed really wrong. But when I looked at your vid it was specified in a way that was crystal clear. The DUH, factor did make me feel like I was on the slow side, but not wanting to f up meant I wanted certainty. But what completely upsets me is the track itself can't be made stationary with clamps.
1. The launch pad part, the slip-in blue dock, isn't locked, so the slightest nudge, and it's askew.
The actual first hugely bad issue was straight out of the sealed package, my kit was short two set screws for the track, and Kregs web site had no apparent way to resolve that, which would've meant waiting days/weeks for them to possibly mail a couple tiny screws. But going to the local Ace/TrueValue was needed, and neither stores had the correct part, so a 3rd store Menards, was next, and while a suitable screw was found, it needed to be shortened. Problem solved, though a PITA.
2. The issue of securing the track meant my very first pass with the saw, the bris, for the zero clearance was f'd up because the track shifted!!!!
3. Repeat of 2. on most subsequent cuts, requiring my returning to using the much lest costly Bora cutting guide.
Do you have any suggestions for this issue? I have looked online but I seem to be the only dipshit having this perhaps.
Thx in advance
z3dsdead thanks for the positive feedback, and glad to help! I felt like there were no good videos, so I made one. I totally agree on the launch pad part. I had the same issue with it. As far as clamping it, what I noticed was that if the rubber on the bottom gets dusty, it tends to slide.
@@aaronfixesstuff TENDS to? I was working on a sheet of 3/4 MDF. I certainly considered dust. The tool was fresh from the package. The immediate, obvious dust was brushed away. The KREG product line seems to be quite good overall. Overpriced, to be sure, though I'm a patron of the idea cheap tools are priced as such that good or great tools will be off the shelf at the places people who need them shop. Sell them enough shit, and some will not only spend more, but they'll spend MORE
Hi, not sure if you’ve discovered this yet, but thought I would share just in case. My husband and I were having a similar issue with the accucut slipping mid cut, kreg sells clamps for the accucut on their site (I’ll leave the link below). We’ve had a few other issues with the accucut, but the clamps have since fixed the slipping issue.
www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/track-clamps/KMS7520.html
Thank you for not nerding things up! Three videos I had to watch before yours! Each one of them started nerding out but failed to keep it simple so the dumb guy in the back could follow along! 😂
Thanks so much for this video. Really appreciate ❤
Awesome! Glad to help!!
Double checked my setup with yours.
Thanks! Many people have confirmed that Kreg instructions are not clear enough!
11:55 What a kickass square tool!
wrf1973 it’s great for cutting drywall! Thanks :)
I like your tattoos!
alexisclairefit thank you!!
Enjoyed you instructions. Wondered when you were going to move the indicator to the other side.
Gracias por la muestra muy completa, amigo
thanks for the very complete sample, friend 👌
Thank you for taking the time to comment!!
Good tutorial.....thank you!!!
I would NOT count on using the starting block on a square board and ending up with a square board AFTER the cut. The straightness of the cut looked great but I would make indicator marks for the cut. The instructions say “Mark the cutline on your workpiece.” Thanks for making this video. It was a big help with setup!
In none of the other videos mention that you actually have to cut the blue plastic ribbon that comes out of the aluminum guide first. Interesting, thank you!
I watched some of the other videos too. I agree, they really don’t do a good job of explaining how assemble it. Thanks for the feedback!
The written instructions do (sort of), but they are simply horribly written written instructions. Their own video leaves this step out. They should be paying Aaron to make the instruction video.
@@drdilettante thanks! That was one of the kindest comments I have gotten!!
@@drdilettante The instructions say to cut 1/32nd of an inch off. Like anyone knows how tiny that is!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks Mike! Glad to help!
nice video parekoy madaling maintindihan,, good luck g0dbless
Thanks for the review. Does this allow for bevel cuts?
Hi I have a Milwaukee 6.5 inch circular saw, it might be similar to yours. I found that one of the clamps (the far side) pushes the foot of the away. I also found I can’t cut the blue guide strip when I setup my saw with the saw guard freely moving rather than in the up position always. I read that the guard has to be able to freely move once setup. Did you have this problem with your setup?
Jun Vasquez that is correct unfortunately. The guard does have to be in the “up” position. I will say that the Milwaukee saw is not a great fit for this jig. It works, but nothing wow about it. I still like that it grips the work surface, but it is far from ideal. Also did you try moving the clamp to the other hole like I did?
Thanks for the quick reply, I am using the two inside holes for the clamp. Tempted to file the corner edge of the foot plate of the saw touching the clamp but I just adjusted carefully the clamp height instead and made sure the clamp does not push the plate away. I still need to solve the cutting blue strip problem with guard able to move down, for my own safety as I am still newbie to woodworking. Thanks for the video.
Jun Vasquez for sure!
At the beginning you mention you had a diy track or a door board that was thrown out. Cost and convenience, how does the accu-cut compare to a diy track and is it worth the added cost?
The benefits I see to the accu-cut is the gripy bottom doesn't require setting up clamps and the track keeps the saw in line. Whereas with a diy board you would have to pay attention to keeping the saw fence square to jig. Lastly, a diy jig could be built for free with scrap material and can be made ad hoc if you change saws or blade thicknesses. Oh and you dont have to take the minute to attach the guide if it was detached.
That all being said, im very tempted to buy the accu-cut.
Honestly, I don’t use the accu cut anymore. I found it to be a pain. The homemade jig does have a disadvantage, that it does not grip well. The shoe was really testing me, and it does not fit nicely on the milwaukee saw.
Very very very helpful
Great how-to. The only thing I would recommend is eye and hearing protection.
Santana Garcia you are absolutely right! I am one to use them but spaced it out when I was doing this! Thanks :)
I didn't think it was very safe putting your fingers under the edge of the scrap piece or cutting off. A bit dangerous there.
Thanks
Glad to help!!
Thanks for the video....so after 6 months....is the ripping still accurate? btw...is that 6 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel saw?
No problem! So after 6 months, I’m back to the jig I built myself. I was not happy with the way the saw sat in the sled. Also, it was a pain to keep on putting on the shoe and taking it off.
And yes. It’s a fuel 6 1/2.
I don't understand how big of a pain it could be to put the saw back on the plate.
I mean all you have to do is put it under this two screws and buttered up against the stop button on the left on your setup tighten down two screws you're on your way, how much easier could it really be?
Can you do 45 degree bevel cuts with this? I want to make a french cleat system but free handing an 8 foot long 45 degree cut with a circular saw is not on my wish list lol.
I hear you, I would not want to do that either! And yes. It has a dual bevel.
One thing I don't like about the Accucut is that most bevel cuts are almost impossible-the sled prevents you from tilting the blade very much.
Very true. I am still waiting on a reasonably priced track saw that will do what I need.
Thank you so much for sharing. Just a question, how do you deal/fix the little rail side play that it has?. Thank you
Of course! Glad to help. I honestly did not notice any play. Do you mean play between the two tracks?
Mine has movement between sled and track as well, also no one talks about the grey thing on the front of sled, just flops around.!
For the money I would not buy it again !
If you don’t have any extra plywood laying around can you simply lay the accu cut on a table and cut the blue strip?
I’m not sure I understand your question. I’m sorry.
The one question that I cannot get answered- Can you elevate one end of the saw while in the track so that you can make a cut inside a piece of wood? If I want to cut a rectangle within a piece of plywood, can I do that?
No plunge cuts with this setup.. You could get the cut started, or do the whole thing, with a jigsaw. No tear out protection doing this, tho I've heard of a hack where you put painter's tape over where you're cutting to help with the splintering (scoring your cut line with a utility knife also can help). Alternatively, if you're brave and skilled enough you could do the plunges with the circ saw then attach the sled and lay the track and do the cuts that way (starting the cuts mid track wherever you made the initial plunges freehand). Still need a jigsaw (or a hand saw of your preference) to square the corners.
What brand is your work table?
It is a Worx Pegasus. I absolutely love it!!
Nice video. I had a old circular saw I mounted in the sled permanently. I like there is no setup.
11:55 What Is That thing called?
I'm a beginner and my problem is what if I have a board and it is not straight on any of the sides How do I get it straight or can I use this tool to get it straight I'm confused.
Barbra do you have a speed square? If so, find your square and go from there. Does that make sense? You can also butt the starting piece to the edge of your board, that will give you a straight edge to work with.
@@aaronfixesstuff yes I have a speed square, a empire guide and a Kreg rip cut and a extra long level.
Barbra awesome. So once you can verify a 90 degree angle using the speed square. Then mark the board using the level, and now you have a straight cut :)
@@aaronfixesstuff okay I kind of understand I will try it. I am terrible with figuring out straight lines, always been a problem.
noticed that you didn't switch the clear plastic strip in front with the red line and the other gray pointer! But still a good video, thanks!
Thanks! I didn’t even know that was a thing :)
GeeDub , I believe that you use them for the Kreg RipCut
The clear cursor is for the RIP cut jig the gray indicator is for alignment over the track on the right side ( for your saw) it just helps aligning. I noticed you lifting the blade guard. I find the starting point lifts it easily by itself.
Dude, some genuine advice here (yeah, I'm that guy -- but I really want you to keep your eyes and digits).
Put on eye protection.
Get your finger away from the blade.
When you put the saw down, mind where the guard is.
As to the jig -- have you noticed any slop in sled as it's sliding on rails? Mine is really bad, 1/16-1/8" easily...
The reason why I disliked your video is because you didn’t swear you didn’t shout, and you didn’t fight anyone, once you have done all these things I would have subscribed to your channel.
Big safety no-no here. Your saw’s blade guard should still be operable after mounting your saw to the sled.
It should, but it does not work with this model unfortunately.
@@aaronfixesstuff be careful man. I’ve seen bad things happen when the blade guard isn’t functioning (a VERY serious injury)...and it happens in the blink of an eye.
@@johnharville8007 yeah man. Totally agreed. I am not a fan of the jig and I really only use the one I built now. No shoe needed and setup takes a few seconds.
Is there a saw that will allow you to operate the blade guard? That's my biggest concern is safety and if that's not able to be achieved then the product is a waste.
@@gailharris8316 pretty sure it can work properly with this saw (and most saws for that matter). I just think the creator of this video didn’t place that stop block properly.
There’s no clamps to clamp the guide to the wood? Hhhuuhhh??
Sadly not. I think it’s so silly that it doesn’t have a clamp