Did I hear Scott say Steeda makes parts for us First Gen guys and gals? Would like to change my 67 Upper and lower control arms and shock or strut systems. Thanks! Cheers from Detroit/Dearborn.
Very cool and informational Scott! Love the Silver Bullet Mustang! I can attest just how important weight management is for you Street Car or Drag Car. I can easily reduce 200 lbs by not taking momma along with me. Doooooooooooooooh.
Can you tell me what all suspension parts you have done to your fox that's going 1.20 ?? I can't seem to get mine better than a 1.40. Thank you for the video!!
I hav no dog in that fight, but am curious. U think there are parts clearly being left off the table by BMR for thr Fbody? Or are u implying something to the effect that another source might instill more technology & advancement in development of parts for the Fbody.?? Just curious. I myself own a s550 '19 Stang .. ( made my living 3+decades building prof race cars &custom suspension for clients who could afford specially engineering & design. We had zero interest in mass production. I hav worked on more than a few F body cars. Mostly drag cars of coarse. Rear suspension wrk on nearly all them. Like before much was avail in 4130/Tig welded hand crafted torque arms & 9" housings before company's like Moser & Strange started mass production of these needed items. Not much front end wrk did we do on them. I like Fbody cars. Just never owned 1 myself. Our area of expertise is chassis & suspension design, & for many decades we usually built/filled all our clients needs in house, and didnt buy the - off the shelf stuff- from places like BMR. Repurposed all my 9" fixtures for Fbodys after Strange/Moser jumped in. Im a custom guy. Not production. Yet most my stuff seemed to end up in production. Lol. Just not by me getting my intellectual property compensation. Patenting any of this stuff is just an ego thing. Not financially viable. Like our anti-sway systems mnted on bottom of 9" housings instead of between frame rails due to full exhaust system constraints we did decades ago on Fox bodys. We never did many or liked 8.8" stuff near as much as the 9" rears. They were par for coarse on any drag race car or hi end street car for us.. dating bk to the 80s/ '90s when everyone else was doing 8.8s on Fox cars & stangs well into the mid 2000s. Ive done both. Dont really care for the issues the 8.8" and the even worse GM 7.5"s that were standard issue for Fbody guys.. w/any real pwr or tire that 7.5" was easy to hurt. the 1 thing 3rd/4th gen F body cars needed GM to update badly forever. It was like a "govenor".. not un- similar to the 1 built into the old Turbo 400 trans GM made shift automatically whether u wanted it to or not..as stk..lol My specialty on Fbodys was really 3rd/4th gen Aero work. Spent time in GM (Pontiac owned) wind tunnel, for GM developing better Aero packages for Nhra pro stk cars.. bk when templates & dimensional constraints were how they tried to rein us in , & we gained even bigger advantages, usurping the rules & dimensions & #'s held too. Nice way of saying 'cheating'- w/o getting caught. Fooled tech guys on many areas including windshield angle (lack of) & roof to rocker ht, thou. Fun times. Zillion hrs a wk- thou. In racing. Our biggest advantage was working more hrs than most can bear to committ to. When everyone is about equally intelligent from team to team. Its then # of man hrs U can commit to any program that seems to pay biggest dividends. Not always. But often. I thought BMR had the rear end of those Fbody cars reasonably figured out by now. I built a 1 off torque arm car chassis for NHRA pro stock car team bk in winter of '92/'93. '60 footed like banshee in testing. Needed some wrk past 330ft. But team owners didn't want to spend any real time developing on it w/o a 2nd team car they didnt hav.. so it was shelved by March of '93. U could adjust the PICK UP POINT @front of the Tor. Arm by ➕ or ➖ 6" from baseline 48"-- on 103" whl base chassis..+2" frm stk Fbody for stability & within rules. vs a standard length non adj. torque arm configuration like GMs orig. design. Regards,
No but right after it ran 10's we drove it 4 hours south to Bradenton FL to run 10's in the FL heat. Also the plan was to run it through the Tail of the Dragon this year but COVID.
@@jesusm2159 The only thing on the car that takes away from it being a daily driver is the E85 we run. It's not available in south GA at the pump, so we have to get it in FL. Otherwise a sway to normal tires would be better also.
Essentially, yeah. The Baer Drag Brakes stop pretty well, but don't have the same heat capacity as stock brakes. We really only recommend them for cars that spend more time at the drag strip than anywhere else. But man, do they cut some serious unsprung weight! -Chris
@@steedaautosports ok that makes more sense. because im looking at the baer eradispeed rotors for my pp1 mustang and those shave about 24lbs. i was sitting here wondering where the other 75lbs could come from unless the rotors were getting pretty small.
The “Nitto tire”. Cmon. If you’re gonna advertise a company at least say which street tire. For any one wondering the best Nitto for the street is the 555R2 for the rear or the NT05 all around. The rest of Nitto’s line are junk especially the 555G2 on the rear. Only use those as fronts with the R2’s.
@@mikehughes8023 it depends what we are taking about. Michelin Cup2 for example are great tires for the road course and pretty sticky. The Pilot Sport 4s are amazing all around tires. But if you have a car with legit power you need to use radials on the rear and neither of those tires Michelin makes is going to hook the same as Nitto 555R2 for example. Their Radials which have 100 tread vs the cup2 140 tread make them still great street tires but will absolutely hook better than both those Michelin’s if you’re boosted. If you’re stock then I agree Michelin are best. It really depends what you need. All around I agree Michelin are best but not for serious power.
I have run nitto nt05r on the rear in 305 35 r 19 at 580ish rwhp and they hook decent. Need to fix my negative rear camber and get some new tires. Was thinking of trying the 555r2 tires in 345 width on my 11.5 in rear rims just don't know how they hook
Great video! So many guys 'buy fast cars' but don't learn how to drive them before modding.
Awesome! Great video and nice mustangs!
instaBlaster...
Very interested in hearing more about the torque converter collab with Circle D. Hopefully something for the 6r80 as well, and not just the 10r80
Circle D already has great and proven converters for he 6r80. In fact most of the testing has been to get the 10r80 up to speed with the 6R offerings.
Camera work is next level 🔥
I would really like to see top 5 Track mods.
Stay tuned! Just might have something for you in the future!
Thank you sir! This is excellent information. The order of the information makes perfect sense.
Great video Scott!
Outstanding video and content. I subscribed.
Awesome! Thank you for subscribing, and thank you for your service as well!
I would say rear suspension it Major and should be one for the first mods
Great video scott! Can’t wait to see what the silver bullet does.
Crushing the content !!
Did I hear Scott say Steeda makes parts for us First Gen guys and gals? Would like to change my 67 Upper and lower control arms and shock or strut systems. Thanks! Cheers from Detroit/Dearborn.
Very cool and informational Scott! Love the Silver Bullet Mustang! I can attest just how important weight management is for you Street Car or Drag Car. I can easily reduce 200 lbs by not taking momma along with me. Doooooooooooooooh.
I thought FP half shafts and steeda anti hop kit would have been mentioned.
PLEASE make the closed box intake for the 11-14 coyote!
I was told that if I lose weight my car will go faster LOL which they’re not lying to me I’m trying to lose weight LOL
Weight is the enemy of performance! LOL good luck and thanks for watching!
Do they have a video like this for a track oriented s550
Can you tell me what all suspension parts you have done to your fox that's going 1.20 ?? I can't seem to get mine better than a 1.40. Thank you for the video!!
My car is a19 gt with an mt-82 and I run M/T et street bias ply. What do you recommend setting the Steeda pro-action adjustable rear shocks at?
1/2 to 1 turn from full loose in the rear.
Thanks
Very well explained great show thank you very much
Any throttle body spacer Dyno?
Wish steeda made parts for f-bodys. Us gm guys are jealous. We can only go so far on bmr stuff
I hav no dog in that fight, but am curious. U think there are parts clearly being left off the table by BMR for thr Fbody? Or are u implying something to the effect that another source might instill more technology & advancement in development of parts for the Fbody.??
Just curious. I myself own a s550 '19 Stang .. ( made my living 3+decades building prof race cars &custom suspension for clients who could afford specially engineering & design. We had zero interest in mass production.
I hav worked on more than a few F body cars. Mostly drag cars of coarse. Rear suspension wrk on nearly all them. Like before much was avail in 4130/Tig welded hand crafted torque arms & 9" housings before company's like Moser & Strange started mass production of these needed items.
Not much front end wrk did we do on them. I like Fbody cars. Just never owned 1 myself. Our area of expertise is chassis & suspension design, & for many decades we usually built/filled all our clients needs in house, and didnt buy the - off the shelf stuff- from places like BMR. Repurposed all my 9" fixtures for Fbodys after Strange/Moser jumped in. Im a custom guy. Not production. Yet most my stuff seemed to end up in production. Lol. Just not by me getting my intellectual property compensation. Patenting any of this stuff is just an ego thing. Not financially viable.
Like our anti-sway systems mnted on bottom of 9" housings instead of between frame rails due to full exhaust system constraints we did decades ago on Fox bodys.
We never did many or liked 8.8" stuff near as much as the 9" rears. They were par for coarse on any drag race car or hi end street car for us.. dating bk to the 80s/ '90s when everyone else was doing 8.8s on Fox cars & stangs well into the mid 2000s. Ive done both. Dont really care for the issues the 8.8" and the even worse GM 7.5"s that were standard issue for Fbody guys.. w/any real pwr or tire that 7.5" was easy to hurt. the 1 thing 3rd/4th gen F body cars needed GM to update badly forever. It was like a "govenor".. not un- similar to the 1 built into the old Turbo 400 trans GM made shift automatically whether u wanted it to or not..as stk..lol
My specialty on Fbodys was really 3rd/4th gen Aero work. Spent time in GM (Pontiac owned) wind tunnel, for GM developing better Aero packages for Nhra pro stk cars.. bk when templates & dimensional constraints were how they tried to rein us in , & we gained even bigger advantages, usurping the rules & dimensions & #'s held too.
Nice way of saying 'cheating'- w/o getting caught. Fooled tech guys on many areas including windshield angle (lack of) & roof to rocker ht, thou.
Fun times. Zillion hrs a wk- thou. In racing. Our biggest advantage was working more hrs than most can bear to committ to. When everyone is about equally intelligent from team to team. Its then # of man hrs U can commit to any program that seems to pay biggest dividends. Not always. But often.
I thought BMR had the rear end of those Fbody cars reasonably figured out by now.
I built a 1 off torque arm car chassis for NHRA pro stock car team bk in winter of '92/'93.
'60 footed like banshee in testing. Needed some wrk past 330ft. But team owners didn't want to spend any real time developing on it w/o a 2nd team car they didnt hav.. so it was shelved by March of '93. U could adjust the PICK UP POINT @front of the Tor. Arm by ➕ or ➖ 6" from baseline 48"-- on 103" whl base chassis..+2" frm stk Fbody for stability & within rules.
vs a standard length non adj. torque arm configuration like GMs orig. design.
Regards,
The driver Mod is the most important.
Nice job 👍
Is the silver bullet a daily driver?
No but right after it ran 10's we drove it 4 hours south to Bradenton FL to run 10's in the FL heat. Also the plan was to run it through the Tail of the Dragon this year but COVID.
@@LongStroke351 what the major basic mods are needed from this silver bullet to be removed or left to make it a daily/ track car at high performance
@@jesusm2159 The only thing on the car that takes away from it being a daily driver is the E85 we run. It's not available in south GA at the pump, so we have to get it in FL. Otherwise a sway to normal tires would be better also.
Oh yeah baby I'm coming lol
What size wheels and tires do you have on the silver bullet?
17x4.5 front and 17x10 rear. You can check out the full build list here: www.steeda.com/2018-mustang-silver-bullet-drag-car
How much does the silver bullet weigh?
3350
2:55 He means a running start, not a head start
STANG GANG NOTHING ELSE😈
Gotta do more to the s650 to get the same performance 😅
I just want the best mods for my 2019 mustang gt pp1 automatic.
CAI, Tune, Longtubes and E85 if you can get it.
#6 add Morimoto XB’s
how the hell does baer brakes shave 100lbs off the car?! are they drag only brakes? good for a stop or two before they get to hot?
Essentially, yeah. The Baer Drag Brakes stop pretty well, but don't have the same heat capacity as stock brakes. We really only recommend them for cars that spend more time at the drag strip than anywhere else. But man, do they cut some serious unsprung weight! -Chris
@@steedaautosports ok that makes more sense. because im looking at the baer eradispeed rotors for my pp1 mustang and those shave about 24lbs. i was sitting here wondering where the other 75lbs could come from unless the rotors were getting pretty small.
I'll just loose some weight for weight management 1st 🤣 🤣
Think you forgot about axles, you will sanp them like a twig!!! With 7 8 horse power, that is a given, might want to redo your video
Whenever someone says the word IRS, I start sweating 😮😅
The “Nitto tire”. Cmon. If you’re gonna advertise a company at least say which street tire. For any one wondering the best Nitto for the street is the 555R2 for the rear or the NT05 all around. The rest of Nitto’s line are junk especially the 555G2 on the rear. Only use those as fronts with the R2’s.
What the Michelin pilot 4 v nitto which is better street/ track?
@@jesusm2159 Michelins are hella better than Nittos by far...But they’re more expensive.
@@mikehughes8023 thanks for info
@@mikehughes8023 it depends what we are taking about. Michelin Cup2 for example are great tires for the road course and pretty sticky. The Pilot Sport 4s are amazing all around tires. But if you have a car with legit power you need to use radials on the rear and neither of those tires Michelin makes is going to hook the same as Nitto 555R2 for example. Their Radials which have 100 tread vs the cup2 140 tread make them still great street tires but will absolutely hook better than both those Michelin’s if you’re boosted. If you’re stock then I agree Michelin are best. It really depends what you need. All around I agree Michelin are best but not for serious power.
I have run nitto nt05r on the rear in 305 35 r 19 at 580ish rwhp and they hook decent. Need to fix my negative rear camber and get some new tires. Was thinking of trying the 555r2 tires in 345 width on my 11.5 in rear rims just don't know how they hook
It’s been proven that cai does nothing for hp