No lie, the hundreds of thousands of dollars that I saved from y’all videos literally helped me out of homelessness sleeping in my 15 A3 premium. My waterpump and pipes blew and cracked so I didn’t have heat for months and I used your videos to change both and my rotors before my wheel got torn. I really appreciate these videos so damn much. Keep up the great work.
I’ve done scores of brake jobs on many cars, mostly VW. But this is my first time on Audi, so I was looking for guidance. After about 90 minutes and 10-12 other videos, I found the one I needed to see: THIS ONE!
Thank you! The very car I drive, and the very procedure I was contemplating. This encourages me to go ahead, with a few tool acquisitions as well as an FCP kit.
Great video but for some people that are watching you may want to consider a few things I’ve run into. Not all those caliper pistons will compress with a c-clamp or normal compression tool. Some are racheting pistons and they require turning while compression. Good luck doing that without a $20 kit I had to buy. Also saw how easy those set screws were to take out? Yeah good luck hahahaha. I’ve seen ppl use the impact screw driver where u hit it with a hammer and it turns and that seems to work good. Well, I didn’t have that and I had to use a strip screw kit on everyone except one that I had to drill out and make new threads for. I’ve even seen multiple videos where people don’t even put a new set screw in because they know it’ll just be a pain later on (I don’t recommend that, it’s just a set screw but I’d rather spend hours getting the old one out or making new threads than going without it just cuz it’s my car a I’m annoying like that). It’s an Audi, they are going to throw every weird, annoying, and dumb over-engineered design they can at you. Just realize everything with your Audi is going to be an ordeal to do yourself, if you know that going in, then you can plan accordingly for when you leave your Audi on jacks for the night cuz you had to order a part/tool because you don’t have it or you broke the one you had while in a rage from working on your Audi.
Would this also work on a 2019 Audi Q3? I cannot find a video that properly showcases the q3 properly. It's all the older models. I believe the S3 has the similar setup
Thanks guys for uploading these kid of videos. You save a lot of money to you customers. It would be great if you can share WHEN to replace the rotors. Normally you know when you have reached the minimum rotor THICKNESS which is technical info not available to the common people. In this particular case, what is the minimum rotor thickness say for the A3 8V lineup? I have a 2018 A3 Sportback 2TFSI and I dont find this info in the web.
Just did this repair. The piston would not fully retract from a pry bar alone and I was able to resolve this issue by using a C clamp+a disc from a caliper tool kit that fit. Just a tip for those who may be struggling at the same part 👍🏻 the logo plate on the front makes it impossible to use a caliper tool normally
Love the video, you're an extraordinary mechanic. This 2018 A3 my 1st Audi, and at 60K miles I just decided I'd dive right in, being the senior citizen I am, proud owner of a 69 Boss 302 all original equipment as a 1st car in 1973. You're extraordinary, thought the sensor was the most time consuming portion of the project. I really wanted to cut it off and hack it so as not to have to deal with it but what's time when you have little left? The cable lead was different on my A3 Premium and I accidentally got it off, but then realized my OEM brakes didn't come with a new sensor and cable. I cannot imagine why we'd put in new brakes and not a new sensor given then small cost. But that thing is a pain in the ass. Still tbe Audi is a dream car for me.
should my break caliper be a little lose when reinstalling? im assuming it will decompress but wanted to see if i would magically get a response while i do my other wheel
Generally speaking no, but if you vent it slightly it may help with less resistance in the piston. Most of that is in the fluid however, not the air at the top of the reservoir.
Thx 4 tha vid. It helped but did not fully resolve my issue. I got the bulb out, but I'm trying to get it back in and can't get it to secure back in the slop with the clamps. I will never buy another Audi again. I don't care if I strike it rich and can afford to pay the dealership for repairs. Neva again. To change a bulb should be a 5 min job. Let say I'm traveling. A bulb blow. I should not have to take my tire off, take off my wheel wale, and need all these extra tools just for a bulb. I spent $120 for a bulb that is now slitly damaged because of the sorry complex design. Now it may blow sooner than later cause the blue sleeve is cracked. I hate this, Audi! I wish something could be done about this because a customer should not have to go through such hardship. My car is sitting on a jack stand because I have spent a whole day trying to change a bulb, only to be unsuccessful because of this stupid, poorly designed car. Sorry for venting on your page. I know you don't have anything to do with the situation 😒
Have no idea why he didnt used a normal 17 wrench instead of those ugly pliers. Also the sliding bolts ( the ones holding the caliper on the carrier ) should be taken out, cleaned and greased, and remounted. They are responsible for the good adjustment/sliding in time, as pads wear out you can use also Ate Plastilube, hes using in video. Too much anti-seize used, Zimmerman ( the rotor manufacterer ) expressly says to not grease/antiseize the hub where is attached the wheel afterwards. Check the little manual that comes with stuff.
Old video, but can anyone enlighten me on the placement of the jack points/stands on the 2019 Audi A3? I see that there are four arrows directing me to pinch welds to jack up the car, but I can't see any other place to put the actual jack stands, especially in the front which is just one big piece of plastic. I've watched tons of videos and there always seems to be a different setup than mine. It's incredibly frustrating and would appreciate some expert guidance!
No lie, the hundreds of thousands of dollars that I saved from y’all videos literally helped me out of homelessness sleeping in my 15 A3 premium. My waterpump and pipes blew and cracked so I didn’t have heat for months and I used your videos to change both and my rotors before my wheel got torn. I really appreciate these videos so damn much. Keep up the great work.
Happy to hear it Lamar, good wrenching!
I’ve done scores of brake jobs on many cars, mostly VW. But this is my first time on Audi, so I was looking for guidance. After about 90 minutes and 10-12 other videos, I found the one I needed to see: THIS ONE!
Happy we could be of some help!
Looks so easy when someone else does it
Always pal 😂
It is easy. Once you change a waterpump or remove an intake manifold a few times this will seem like changing a flat lol.
One of the easiest jobs to start on
Thank you! The very car I drive, and the very procedure I was contemplating. This encourages me to go ahead, with a few tool acquisitions as well as an FCP kit.
Great video but for some people that are watching you may want to consider a few things I’ve run into. Not all those caliper pistons will compress with a c-clamp or normal compression tool. Some are racheting pistons and they require turning while compression. Good luck doing that without a $20 kit I had to buy. Also saw how easy those set screws were to take out? Yeah good luck hahahaha. I’ve seen ppl use the impact screw driver where u hit it with a hammer and it turns and that seems to work good. Well, I didn’t have that and I had to use a strip screw kit on everyone except one that I had to drill out and make new threads for. I’ve even seen multiple videos where people don’t even put a new set screw in because they know it’ll just be a pain later on (I don’t recommend that, it’s just a set screw but I’d rather spend hours getting the old one out or making new threads than going without it just cuz it’s my car a I’m annoying like that).
It’s an Audi, they are going to throw every weird, annoying, and dumb over-engineered design they can at you. Just realize everything with your Audi is going to be an ordeal to do yourself, if you know that going in, then you can plan accordingly for when you leave your Audi on jacks for the night cuz you had to order a part/tool because you don’t have it or you broke the one you had while in a rage from working on your Audi.
What a Great video. I am so glad that you included all the torques.
Good day! Your DIY projects are always fantastic-thank you! I’m eager to know if you have any DIY projects for the E-Tron 55.
loving the S3 MQB content
Next week I start my learning at Audi and I find your videos very helpful, thanks!
Brilliant. Changed my front discs and pass tonight after watching your video 😊
Awesome! Glad to be able to help.
Would this also work on a 2019 Audi Q3? I cannot find a video that properly showcases the q3 properly. It's all the older models. I believe the S3 has the similar setup
do you have to open the brake fluid cap when you compress the caliper??
Thanks guys for uploading these kid of videos. You save a lot of money to you customers. It would be great if you can share WHEN to replace the rotors. Normally you know when you have reached the minimum rotor THICKNESS which is technical info not available to the common people. In this particular case, what is the minimum rotor thickness say for the A3 8V lineup? I have a 2018 A3 Sportback 2TFSI and I dont find this info in the web.
Just did this repair. The piston would not fully retract from a pry bar alone and I was able to resolve this issue by using a C clamp+a disc from a caliper tool kit that fit. Just a tip for those who may be struggling at the same part 👍🏻 the logo plate on the front makes it impossible to use a caliper tool normally
Audi said it would be $4700 for all brakes changed. It took like $400 and a couple hours to just do it myself, insane.
Do you have a tutorial on shifting the rear subframe?
Awesome detailed video, nice work. If you lived near me I’d take my vehicles to you, you seem very thorough.
Those 21mm bolts are very hard to remove without an impact wrench. FYI, turn the wheel out to gain better access.
Do you have to bleed the brake?
Where the hell can i find a t12 torx bit wtf
same here... maybe typo? T12 is soooo small maybe and no kit has it
@@hot2me654 it has to be a typo. Maybe t20?
@@Neuk__he says 12 at the beginning of vid then uses a t30 for the rotor retaining screw?
Auto Zone, Advance Auto or any auto store. An Allen Wrench works as well
I have a few questions. One is this the same on an A3? Just making sure.
Next question, do you have a video for the rear brake pads for the A3?
For wheels the torque is 120nm?
Does this guide apply if the car has an electronic handbrake?
Love the video, you're an extraordinary mechanic. This 2018 A3 my 1st Audi, and at 60K miles I just decided I'd dive right in, being the senior citizen I am, proud owner of a 69 Boss 302 all original equipment as a 1st car in 1973.
You're extraordinary, thought the sensor was the most time consuming portion of the project. I really wanted to cut it off and hack it so as not to have to deal with it but what's time when you have little left? The cable lead was different on my A3 Premium and I accidentally got it off, but then realized my OEM brakes didn't come with a new sensor and cable. I cannot imagine why we'd put in new brakes and not a new sensor given then small cost. But that thing is a pain in the ass. Still tbe Audi is a dream car for me.
should my break caliper be a little lose when reinstalling? im assuming it will decompress but wanted to see if i would magically get a response while i do my other wheel
Just did this myself and the first bolt I took out snapped
Do you need to replace the caliper bolts?
When winding the piston back do you need to open the fill up lid
Generally speaking no, but if you vent it slightly it may help with less resistance in the piston. Most of that is in the fluid however, not the air at the top of the reservoir.
Thx 4 tha vid. It helped but did not fully resolve my issue. I got the bulb out, but I'm trying to get it back in and can't get it to secure back in the slop with the clamps. I will never buy another Audi again. I don't care if I strike it rich and can afford to pay the dealership for repairs. Neva again. To change a bulb should be a 5 min job. Let say I'm traveling. A bulb blow. I should not have to take my tire off, take off my wheel wale, and need all these extra tools just for a bulb. I spent $120 for a bulb that is now slitly damaged because of the sorry complex design. Now it may blow sooner than later cause the blue sleeve is cracked. I hate this, Audi! I wish something could be done about this because a customer should not have to go through such hardship. My car is sitting on a jack stand because I have spent a whole day trying to change a bulb, only to be unsuccessful because of this stupid, poorly designed car.
Sorry for venting on your page. I know you don't have anything to do with the situation 😒
ATE suggests using their ceramic break pads with flat disks (not cross drilled) to benefit from reduced dust emission
Flat discs will certainly help keep the dust low!
Is this the same for an Audi Q3?
Do you not clean & regress the calliper runner bolts??
+ the back of the pads where the piston and outer caliper sits
Have no idea why he didnt used a normal 17 wrench instead of those ugly pliers. Also the sliding bolts ( the ones holding the caliper on the carrier ) should be taken out, cleaned and greased, and remounted. They are responsible for the good adjustment/sliding in time, as pads wear out you can use also Ate Plastilube, hes using in video. Too much anti-seize used, Zimmerman ( the rotor manufacterer ) expressly says to not grease/antiseize the hub where is attached the wheel afterwards. Check the little manual that comes with stuff.
Old video, but can anyone enlighten me on the placement of the jack points/stands on the 2019 Audi A3? I see that there are four arrows directing me to pinch welds to jack up the car, but I can't see any other place to put the actual jack stands, especially in the front which is just one big piece of plastic. I've watched tons of videos and there always seems to be a different setup than mine. It's incredibly frustrating and would appreciate some expert guidance!
I just used my judgment on the jack stand being ahead of the jack. You can see the welds fit into the stand and jack well
Y’all need to do the rear install 🥲
Do you ship to United Kingdom
Wait so you don't bleed the break fluid?
Hi Edgar, unless you are opening up the hydraulic system, there is no need to bleed the system.
Too much anit-sieze applied will be thrown into the back of the rotor when driving, use sparingly.
Thanks bro
Good Work
The 8p S3 and mk2 TTS front brake setup looks bigger and stronger than these
I cannot physically get the caliper carrier off. Those bolts will not budge even with an impact. Fml
Bruh, this video may make me keep my car. I was thinking about upgrading. Maybe I'll upgrade it instead.
😎
Idk how Audi quotes this at $3500
$1876 from Audi Hoffman Estates for both front and rear. Still excessive but not way better than $3500
Are you busy this afternoon?
Aaron is always free for you 😬
Inflation is real that same kit now cost almost $100 more in 2023
That wear sensor connector does NOT come out that easy 😂
All that grease on the rotor from your fingers is going to glaze the pads and rotor. 🤦
Ugh, Aaron man...
Wrong.Rookie. You use a scanner to electronically open the pistons!!!
Youre fired!!!!
You should never type another sentence
Only for the rear ;)
@@lwcontrast good for you are...take it!!!!!lol.
@@lwcontrast correct
@@lwcontrastI managed to do the rear manually