@@dondesnoo1771 You are so right! My 66 almost took me and my garage out one day using a remote starter switch, luckily my garage furnace took the crunch instead of me!
The bolts are splined on the motor side so one man can adjust the camber & castor of the wheel be sure to put the shims back behind control arm shaft on each bolt which is easier said than done the shims need to be at the same spot they came from. I put the nuts back on the bolts then tapped on the nuts up down side to side to jiggle the bolts around to break up the rust around them carefully, one I was a little too zealous with I had to replace it because I loosened the spline and it spun when I tried to torque it. You could try wedge behind it. 5/11/19 you can at summit parts by the whole control arm ready to bolt in the new ball joint and all $61.99 limited special online. good luck! PS. Grandpops nickname for me "Ra kaput zer" youtube wouldn't accept it, Go figure! So I had to use the odd spelling because I wanted that to be my online name. I only say this because you read something I wrote once I think you told me to Take a flying leap into a rolling donut. Seems you loathe dealing with fiberglass resin sorry. I grounded my self I couldn't play with my 65 Cadillac for a whole week no dessert as well.
Hey John, it isn't that I didn't find the rest of the video interesting, but I already knew how to remove coil springs so the only question that came to my mind was why not use the air compressor instead of an expensive can of air, lol. I keep my compressor tank pressurized and a hose on it so it never would occur to me to have to hook everything up and wait for it :) And yes, I do test the valve regularly.
I think 50yrs. of rust has welded those bolts to the upper control arm, maybe try heating them with a propane torch might help. PS: I think offset on a wheel is how far off center it is at the hub.
Sam, Your guess is as good as mine, my friend, but I don't like the idea of heat. It'll peel the paint off the fender in the engine compartment. I'll keep working on it. Regards, John
I'd go for a chizzle to separate the upper arm rod from the seized bolts. Wedge it in there betwixt the arm and frame, a whack the hell outovit. Better yet, big nasty air hammer chizzle. What would Eric O or Scotty do?
Thomas, Your English is excellent, my friend. I know many Americans who don't do half as well. My family's German origin is Huengheim, Baden (east of Ravenstein) and I was once stationed in Mannheim with the US Army. I enjoyed Germany, but it wasn't until several years after leaving that I discovered my Huengheim roots. But fortunately, we now have Google Earth, so I've since had a birds-eye view of the entire town. Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts war mein Ururgroßvater der Schuhmachermeister der Stadt. Regards, John
John that's a fascinating paint roller. Where did you get it? LOL, I couldn't resist. Actually I think a simple torch with MAPP gas should get it hot enough to break free. Sometimes splashing it with cold water right after heat shocks the metal enough to break the rust bond. The project is going great.
John, Love watching you work on the Thunderbird. Once it is up and driving maybe I will see it around Conway sometime or at the car show on Petit Jean. How is the garden? I planted my garden in pots this year. I bought a couple of Arkansas Traveler variety tomatoes and I already have blooms. Take care, Cody P.
Cody, Thanks, my friend. The garden is flourishing. The non-stop rain has really been helping. Hopefully, I'll actually get some big radishes this year. We planted Big Boy Tomatoes. Wanted Beef Steak, but they were sold out. Regards, John
Hey John, What I would suggest is to use an inner tube for that wheel. I would think that would solve your problem. I imagine you should be able to find an inner tube on eBay. I saw the comment that trashed your tape measure. I don't understand how someone could generate so much energy and hate for such a simple measuring device as a tape measure. LOL Good grief, it's just a tape measure! Regards, Tom
Tom, I do plan to use an inner tube with the messed up rim. They're too expensive to throw away. It'll be the spare tire. I'll first smooth the bead with my rotary tool and a small grinding wheel. As for the tape measure...that's Art from up north. Hating measuring tapes is a Yankee cultural thing. 😊 Regards, John
Found a good picture here www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Thunderbird-1961-1966-Upper-Control-Arm-Shaft-Kit-62-63-64-65-66-/282073240356 . The shaft holes are not threaded. Heating may help. - 73 Curtis
OMG John! I can't believe you own one of those tape measures for dummies! You'd better not whip that thing out in front of your carpenter friend, He'll probably smash it to pieces with his hammer, Which is what it needs! I know you can read a ruler so why would you have such a piece of junk?! Thank goodness you redeemed yourself with another great video, Thanks!
@@joernone It's a tape just like yours John, Every measurement is marked, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. and 20" is 1F8? Way too much info for anyone experienced in reading a ruler or tape. Yours appears to be a 3/4 wide tape so that's not all that distracting but just look at one of those stupid things in 1/2 inch wide and you'll see what I mean! I personally can't stand those tape measures and refuse to own or even use one and I bet your's is probably made in China! lol, Get yourself a Stanley Powerlock still made here in the good ol' US of A!
Art, I like my little tape measure. I sleep with it. 😊 And did you miss the part about not getting wrapped around the axle over minutia?👀 Regards, John
@@DrOlds100 I figured you'd be wanting him to buy a folding carpenter's rule, lol. Had a few of those over the years but I honestly couldn't say whether they even still make them or not.
Man John, you wouldn't think those bolts would be threaded in there. Wish I could help on that. In case someone wants to read what the offset of the wheel rim is,,, here is a link to a page on TireRack.com,,,, www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?gclid=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_z4Ax2JZXovb1zRx3eg49rwqRnKJieZVjQE3t9-Y01l7inIRY7s1RxoCbugQAvD_BwE&techid=101&ef_id=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_z4Ax2JZXovb1zRx3eg49rwqRnKJieZVjQE3t9-Y01l7inIRY7s1RxoCbugQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!304470776832!b!!g!!&affiliate=HM5 I know,,,, it's a long link,,, ;p)
Ha! I got to the same impasse at about 6:00PM last night. Those upper control arm bolts don't budge. I'll let you know if I get mine out and how. Also, count your lucky stars that someone replace those lower ball joints at some point. Mine are still the original, and those rivets are made of some SERIOUS hard stuff. Cheers!
Eric, You can also grind off the rivet heads, being careful not to grind into the control arm. Chisel or grinder...I've done it both ways. Regards, John.
I'm beginning to work on my 66 Bird & your series is fantastic & will be a great help. Thank you!
Johnny,
You're very welcome, my friend, and glad to hear the series is helping. Be sure to keep us informed.
Regards,
John
JohnnyRetro be careful theese will shift to reverse when running in park un attended .I'm the Ralph Nader of t brds.
@@dondesnoo1771
You are so right! My 66 almost took me and my garage out one day using a remote starter switch, luckily my garage furnace took the crunch instead of me!
GoldensRule45 yep dad had a heart attack an died you're lucky .that's why I always tell any one has one..!!!
@@dondesnoo1771 Great tip. I've owned this for a a long time and well aware of some of the gremlins. Luv the car, cheers
Enjoyed watching John ! Have a great upcoming weekend !!
Thanks, Virginia. Looks like another rainy weekend for us. Par for the course.
Regards,
John
The bolts are splined on the motor side so one man can adjust the camber & castor of the wheel be sure to put the shims back behind control arm shaft on each bolt which is easier said than done the shims need to be at the same spot they came from. I put the nuts back on the bolts then tapped on the nuts up down side to side to jiggle the bolts around to break up the rust around them carefully, one I was a little too zealous with I had to replace it because I loosened the spline and it spun when I tried to torque it. You could try wedge behind it. 5/11/19 you can at summit parts by the whole control arm ready to bolt in the new ball joint and all $61.99 limited special online. good luck! PS. Grandpops nickname for me "Ra kaput zer" youtube wouldn't accept it, Go figure! So I had to use the odd spelling because I wanted that to be my online name. I only say this because you read something I wrote once I think you told me to Take a flying leap into a rolling donut. Seems you loathe dealing with fiberglass resin sorry. I grounded my self I couldn't play with my 65 Cadillac for a whole week no dessert as well.
Sometimes things are better not to be disturbed 😁
John It’s a pace of cake
Tall wifey happy Mother’s Day
Hey John, it isn't that I didn't find the rest of the video interesting, but I already knew how to remove coil springs so the only question that came to my mind was why not use the air compressor instead of an expensive can of air, lol. I keep my compressor tank pressurized and a hose on it so it never would occur to me to have to hook everything up and wait for it :) And yes, I do test the valve regularly.
I think 50yrs. of rust has welded those bolts to the upper control arm, maybe try heating them with a propane torch might help. PS: I think offset on a wheel is how far off center it is at the hub.
Sam,
Your guess is as good as mine, my friend, but I don't like the idea of heat. It'll peel the paint off the fender in the engine compartment. I'll keep working on it.
Regards,
John
I'm with Sam. It may be time for the blue tipped wrench...and maybe a pry bar.
Dwayne,
Tried the pry bar. No dice, but will try it again. I don't like the heat idea. Too aggressive.
Regards,
John
I'd go for a chizzle to separate the upper arm rod from the seized bolts.
Wedge it in there betwixt the arm and frame, a whack the hell outovit.
Better yet, big nasty air hammer chizzle. What would Eric O or Scotty do?
Don,
An air chisel would be best, but I don't have one.
Regards,
John
Great Man. i have the same car in Germany. Nice Video!
Thanks, Thomas. It's greatly appreciated. Where in Deutschland are you located?
Regards,
John
@@joernone Hello John. I live in 35083 Wetter / Hessen. Great Job. You have it off. Nice!!! Sorry I'm not so good in English.
Thomas,
Your English is excellent, my friend. I know many Americans who don't do half as well. My family's German origin is Huengheim, Baden (east of Ravenstein) and I was once stationed in Mannheim with the US Army. I enjoyed Germany, but it wasn't until several years after leaving that I discovered my Huengheim roots. But fortunately, we now have Google Earth, so I've since had a birds-eye view of the entire town. Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts war mein Ururgroßvater der Schuhmachermeister der Stadt.
Regards,
John
@@joernone do you have a mail? would you send a picture of my car? Greetings from Germany by thomas
Thomas,
It's a gmail.com address. joernone@
Regards,
John
John that's a fascinating paint roller. Where did you get it? LOL, I couldn't resist. Actually I think a simple torch with MAPP gas should get it hot enough to break free. Sometimes splashing it with cold water right after heat shocks the metal enough to break the rust bond. The project is going great.
John,
Love watching you work on the Thunderbird. Once it is up and driving maybe I will see it around Conway sometime or at the car show on Petit Jean.
How is the garden? I planted my garden in pots this year. I bought a couple of Arkansas Traveler variety tomatoes and I already have blooms.
Take care,
Cody P.
Cody,
Thanks, my friend. The garden is flourishing. The non-stop rain has really been helping. Hopefully, I'll actually get some big radishes this year. We planted Big Boy Tomatoes. Wanted Beef Steak, but they were sold out.
Regards,
John
Hey John,
What I would suggest is to use an inner tube for that wheel. I would think that would solve your problem. I imagine you should be able to find an inner tube on eBay.
I saw the comment that trashed your tape measure. I don't understand how someone could generate so much energy and hate for such a simple measuring device as a tape measure. LOL Good grief, it's just a tape measure!
Regards, Tom
Tom,
I do plan to use an inner tube with the messed up rim. They're too expensive to throw away. It'll be the spare tire. I'll first smooth the bead with my rotary tool and a small grinding wheel. As for the tape measure...that's Art from up north. Hating measuring tapes is a Yankee cultural thing. 😊
Regards,
John
You had an Opel too? My first car was a '58 Opel.
Johnny,
Mine was a 72 Rekord...bright red.
Regards,
John
Found a good picture here www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Thunderbird-1961-1966-Upper-Control-Arm-Shaft-Kit-62-63-64-65-66-/282073240356 . The shaft holes are not threaded. Heating may help. - 73 Curtis
OMG John! I can't believe you own one of those tape measures for dummies! You'd better not whip that thing out in front of your carpenter friend, He'll probably smash it to pieces with his hammer, Which is what it needs! I know you can read a ruler so why would you have such a piece of junk?! Thank goodness you redeemed yourself with another great video, Thanks!
Art,
What's a tape measure for dummies? Never heard of that.
Regards,
John
@@joernone It's a tape just like yours John, Every measurement is marked, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. and 20" is 1F8? Way too much info for anyone experienced in reading a ruler or tape. Yours appears to be a 3/4 wide tape so that's not all that distracting but just look at one of those stupid things in 1/2 inch wide and you'll see what I mean! I personally can't stand those tape measures and refuse to own or even use one and I bet your's is probably made in China! lol, Get yourself a Stanley Powerlock still made here in the good ol' US of A!
Art,
I like my little tape measure. I sleep with it. 😊 And did you miss the part about not getting wrapped around the axle over minutia?👀
Regards,
John
@@joernone Lol, I missed nothing John, Did I comment on the can of air, Did I? Have a terrific day my friend!
@@DrOlds100 I figured you'd be wanting him to buy a folding carpenter's rule, lol. Had a few of those over the years but I honestly couldn't say whether they even still make them or not.
You need a THOR or an air chisel with a flat tip.Wack all that rust off.
I haven't given up yet. Tomorrow is another day.
Regards,
John
Man John, you wouldn't think those bolts would be threaded in there. Wish I could help on that. In case someone wants to read what the offset of the wheel rim is,,, here is a link to a page on TireRack.com,,,, www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?gclid=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_z4Ax2JZXovb1zRx3eg49rwqRnKJieZVjQE3t9-Y01l7inIRY7s1RxoCbugQAvD_BwE&techid=101&ef_id=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_z4Ax2JZXovb1zRx3eg49rwqRnKJieZVjQE3t9-Y01l7inIRY7s1RxoCbugQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!304470776832!b!!g!!&affiliate=HM5
I know,,,, it's a long link,,, ;p)
K8
Throw it away not hard to find
Rim
Ha! I got to the same impasse at about 6:00PM last night. Those upper control arm bolts don't budge. I'll let you know if I get mine out and how. Also, count your lucky stars that someone replace those lower ball joints at some point. Mine are still the original, and those rivets are made of some SERIOUS hard stuff. Cheers!
Eric,
You can also grind off the rivet heads, being careful not to grind into the control arm. Chisel or grinder...I've done it both ways.
Regards,
John.