W123 Aux fan AC mod & Evaporator cleaning (Cheap/Free ways to get better AC)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- The AC on our older Mercedes always feel a bit inadequate when compared to a newer vehicle.
I'm slowly tinkering and learning about the system and some of its weak points so I can teach you ways to improve the AC as cheaply as possible!
I'm expecting some viewer to chime in and suggest using R12, and while that is one way to improve the performance, it is getting more and more difficult to obtain R12, and should you ever have a TXV fail or other components, all the new parts being made for these older cars are no longer designed for R12, so performance will suffer.
Key points in video:
0:00 Introduction
0:50 Aux fan relay mod explanation
1:44 Remove ice cube relay cover
2:15 Prepare the relay
2:44 How to attach wires
3:48 Mod Finished
4:10 Explanation of cleaning evaporator coil
5:30 Removal of Kickpanel and Blower fan
6:34 Lube blower motor bearing before reinstalling
6:53 How to reach the evap to clean
7:12 Before pictures of dirt and grime on my evap
8:18 Spraying evap cleaner through extension hose stuff
9:08 George comes to help
9:22 Rinse evap with garden hose (not full power or you'll soak the carpet)
10:18 After picture of clean evap
10:50 Idling in the sun with hot engine 48.4F vent temp
Affiliate links to purchase the items used in this video: (I may earn a small commission for referring you to these items, it costs you nothing, and helps me keep doing these videos!)
➡Relay: amzn.to/3mXMIUo (Get the 30A 4pin SPST)
➡Evap brush: amzn.to/36gwu30
➡Frost king Evap cleaner: amzn.to/30iWF5g
➡2mm ID Tubing you can use to extend the evap cleaner straw: amzn.to/2UmoVUJ
➡Lutz 6 in 1 Screwdriver: amzn.to/3icLe4Y (I used a Kobalt from lowes, but any 6 in 1 works, and the lutz are super nice) - Авто та транспорт
Affiliate links to purchase the items used in this video: (I may earn a small commission for referring you to these items, it costs you nothing, and helps me keep doing these videos!)
Relay: amzn.to/3mXMIUo
Evap brush: amzn.to/36gwu30
Frost king Evap cleaner: amzn.to/30iWF5g
2mm ID Tubing you can use to extend the evap cleaner straw: amzn.to/2UmoVUJ
Lutz 6 in 1 Screwdriver: amzn.to/3icLe4Y (I used a Kobalt from lowes, but any 6 in 1 works, and the lutz are super nice)
Years ago I took out the fresh air plastic grates right below the windshield and cleaned out the metal channel area that pulls air into the AC evaporator. Then I came up with some material to come up with a makeshift cabin air intake filter.
Man I have thought so many times of a good way to get some kind of cabin air filter rigged up, the pollen is so bad where I live that its like walking down the yellow brick road to get into my car. I've seen some extreme modifications to accomplish that, with cutting the firewall and fabricating ductwork and stuff that would direct air across a filter, but your comment has got me thinking of some kind of filter material like the k&n outwears or whoever it is that makes filter guard things for dirt bikes and off road machines that repels water and catches big stuff. Would you mind sharing some photos of your setup? send them to my email if you'd like: tom at trythistv dot com
Great video, thanks man! Subscribed. I am waiting to get my 280E and will need that AC to blow cold. Gets up to 110F here in summer.
110F is worse than where I'm at, Every little bit helps though, especially with a dark colored car and dark colored interior like I've got! I've got a few more tricks up my sleeve I'm gonna try this summer.
Can't wait to see it@@trythistv I should be getting my 280E manual in a few weeks. First thing to sort is the AC. Keep up the good work.
I just put in weeks of work or get my 123 200 petrol ac running and I have been looking for exactly these types of videos. 🙏 I can't thank you enough, especially that R12 is not available in SA
It can be real tricky, and while there is a plethora of information available about our cars, there seems to be little about modifications and improvements.
El gas Mo 49 plus es perfecto para reemplazar el R12
Just fill the system with r152a or air duster like I did in my 1983 240d. I was blowing 38 degrees out of the center vents on an 80+ degree day and lots of humidity. I was running all original components also, all I did was change every seal in the system with new green HNBR O-rings and pulled a 30 in. of mercury vacuum for six hours and then refilled the system and the performance is astounding! Did not change the seals in the compressor also
I am actually planning on comparing performance of various alternative refrigerants in an upcoming video at some point.
The big issue with the ac in this car is likely partially the color of the car and interior being very dark. The ac blows 34-36f out the center vents when you're driving above 20mph and it gets frigid cold in the car after just a mile or two but if you stop and idle in traffic for more than a minute or two it started slowly getting warmer in the car.
My main goal is to systematically go through each component that could be improved, cleaned or tweaked in some way in fully stock form without requiring any real special tools or expense, and see what effect it has on the hot engine, idling, stopped in the sun type circumstances, as that is where the system really struggles in this car.
If you've been keeping up, it's made a quite dramatic difference already between the recirc mod and now this dropping vent temps from the mid 60s down to the high 40s in a worst case possible scenario, it keeps the car much more comfortable even on the hottest days.
Switching to 152a is certainly a viable option to improve performance at the cost of not being able to get the ac serviced at a shop (recovering r152a into a tank of r134a will get some nasty comments from the refrigerant supplier) and potential legal issues since the EPA does not allow 152a to be used in "retrofit" applications.
Which is completely asinine considering the performance, and miniscule GWP and ozone depletion compared to 134a even which was touted as the best thing since sliced bread when they phased out r12, and here we have something that is 10 times less harmful for the environment and we're not supposed to use it. Stupid. Utterly stupid.
But I guess that's the norm for that stuff, laws and red tape to prevent all the fun.
Keep your eyes peeled, you'll see some r152a sometime soon
@@trythistv Thanks for the reply, my AC system was a strong runner since the car had AC from the factory and once the charge depleted years ago no one replaced any components. So I'm running Mercedes original components with all new seals (except the compressor) and at idle I'm doing 40-45 degrees from the center vents on full blast. On the road it gets even better, however lowest I saw was 38 degrees right after charging the car and driving it around with a meat thermometer in the center vent on the second fan speed after I parked in my driveway. It was so cold the windshield was fogging up at night on an 80+ plus night. Do keep us updated as to what you do on your AC system, I'm curious as to what improvements can be done
Man it sounds like your cars ac is spot on!
I found interesting things when I was doing the recirculation mod on mine, like a bb shoved in a hose that stopped the vacuum to the entire ac system so none of the flaps were working. I couldn't figure out any reason why, the vacuum pods in the dash all seem to be ok, so some of my adventure is deciphering what has been done to my car and why.
My goal is to hit about 40ish idling in the sun, I feel like that would put me in good shape, with my temps getting so cold when driving I'm suspicious of the etr I believe it's called, little sensor thingy near the evap that cycles the compressor on and off when the evap temp gets to a set point to prevent icing up the evap. I'm curious if mine is stuck or lazy leading to inefficient cycling and higher than desired vent temps, that's one of the next things on my list to investigate and see what I can learn.
I really appreciate your comments and feedback, I learn a ton from everyone on here, and try my best to educate in return!
@@trythistv good idea the only thing I have to do now is start stocking up on Mercedes original expansion valves from w123's and early w126's so I can have expansion valves that are rated for r12. The new r134a valves have a tighter spring inside them for greater pressure which starves the evaporator core and you get 60-70 degree air at best. However, interestingly enough a fellow peach parts form member told me how he has bought expansion valves that are rated for semi-truck AC systems and you can adjust the expansion valve spring to accommodate different pressure ranges for different refrigerants. He sent a link in my AC write up to a website that has an expansion valve that will fit the w123 and you can use a wrench I think to adjust the spring tension for pressure changes. I was also relieved to know that the vacuum line to the ac dash pods was not leaking since I can hear the dash pods actuate the fresh air flap when turning the system on.
@@trythistv I ran r152a air duster in my 1983 W123 and it was by far the closest to running R12. Regarding your concern about the EPA they just don't go after DIY unless someone sees and documents you doing some egregious stuff. IN FACT when they phased out R12 they specified in the law that DIY car owners may maintain their own cars all they want without oversight except for one requirement. You can't buy containers of R12 that are larger than 2lbs.
Regarding R12 the ONLY thing the EPA banned was the continued manufacture of it. That was the only change. Many people are not clear on that. R12 is perfectly legal for you to buy and use as intended. R12 has been a regular item sold on eBay for years. Sometimes you can get it for about $2oz x 41oz and some wax free mineral oil and you're done.
When I started looking at all of the possible A/C system mods and upgrades and tweaks and all of the time involved so that my system would almost act like R12 I decided to skip all of it and just put R12 in my R12 system. It really is amazing. It also won't seep through stock hoses like the much smaller molecules of all other refrigerants.
If you do run r152a and need to empty your system before a mechanic's shop will touch your system JUST VENT IT OUT. It came from cans of air duster for electronics and keyboards. Offices all over the world dump out tons of it regularly. Office supply stores restock pallets of it regularly. It's not an EPA refrigerant it's a propellant approved for spraying into the air and blowing dust around. Another fun fact, I've seen air duster cans that use r134a. When you search for air duster most cans won't say r152a. They state the chemical name difluorethane. Staples brand seemed to be the cheapest. If you use a can side-piercing tool pierce the side of the can near the base where the metal is more rigid. The tendency is to pierce the can along the middle but the metal is weaker there so it tends to collapse and you get a bad experience.
Hey trithistv, thank you so much for your time on these videos, ungodly amount of help and great explanations. I’ve done your recirculation mod and deep cleaned both the evap inside and condenser under the hood. Both these mods have dropped my vent temps by at least five degrees which is GREAT. Thank you!
I have tried the relay mod several times, but when I attempt to do it, the compressor relay makes an awful noise, and the fan sporadically turns off and on with the noise. It seems that the yellow/black/port 5 isn’t making full contact. I’ve tried running the black/yellow over to a ground point to no avail. Admittedly I know very little about electronics in general, and could just use any help.
Keep up the great work, you’ve got a long time supporter.
Hmmm, I wonder if you've got a fuse or something making poor contact also, Let me double check my instructions and get back to you later on how it should all go together just in case something is off there.
The other night me and my wife went for a drive in the blue car and saw vent temps down near 36F while we were cruising along before the ETR would kick the compressor off to prevent freezing up the evaporator, it was a little cooler than some nights but I was thrilled with how good the AC worked. Felt as good or better than any modern car.
Well, just the two mods I’ve implemented have drastically improved my commute. For reference I’m in the Piedmont of NC and these afternoons are sweltering on the blacktop. Haven’t put a thermometer up to the vents yet but it’s been feeling about mid 50s even on the hottest days, definitely the 40s once the sun has subsided a bit. Thanks for the help and reply, I’ll keep a lookout for any updates.
Aux fan best if u can get a SPAL 12-13-14 inch or larger using 20amps . Wire it so it engages with compressor . *** Remember in Germany a hot day was 30 deg C/ [85f] Remember u cannot cool less than your PT chart Best auto motive is fitting a second condenser . Best performance for a second condenser is high pressure 160 psi = 116f = 46 cel on a ambient 46 cel day
SYSYTEM WORKED WELL WITH 2 DOORS OPENED AND CYCLED AT thermostat at 1500rpm
Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome! Trying to get everything up to par!
@@trythistv
-Why not simply jumper the existing wire to the compressor's relay coil to the fan relay w a diode to prevent backfeed?
-Once an R12 system has been legally retrofitted it's ok to change it to anything. How environmentally damaging is 152? It's ok to clean keyboards w no recovery.
The two relays work in opposite, the compressor relay is provided power when the compressor is commanded on, and the fan relay is provided ground when the fan is commanded on. There is probably a better way to do it, I'm just not smart enough to figure that out lol.
And r152a (air duster) is 10 times less harmful for the environment than r134a, but is also supposedly flammable, so the EPA and dot have said it is not ok to use as a retrofit refrigerant, only to be used in new vehicles that have their ac systems designed to deal with the potential explosion risk. I've seen the stuff burn and it doesn't seem terribly dangerous to me, but I'm also driving a 40 year old car with no airbags, abs, traction control or the other electromagical babysitters that new cars have.
My aux fan (on w123 with Toyota 1jz) doesn't work at all. And the Aircon is useless in the 30 to 35c temps here in Bangkok. I'll be doing the relay mod as well as sorting the motor and I'm sure it'll help. Btw, in Thailand and faulty aux motor makes a massive difference especially in city traffic. Thanks for this video.
You're very welcome, and yes, the aux fan makes a massive difference, especially idling in traffic and such, I'm looking into options for higher flow or at the very least an aux fan that will cover more surface area of the condenser as well.
Your w123 content is extremely helpful! Just picked up a strong running '85 300d with a non-functional A/C, which is the one 'broken' thing on the car that I feel is over my head on the repair. If you have any information on diagnosing the issue, that'd be incredible.
I've already upgraded my fuel filter, and plan to follow your cruise control repair instructions too!
Cheers
I need to do some work on the AC in my grey w123, it is currently completely non functional, I know why, but it may be a good opportunity to show how to diagnose and show the process of how I know what I need to do to get it working. AC is not as complicated as it seems, but it can be finickey as far as getting the charge right and all that
@@trythistv Looking forward to that possibility! I'm tired of my dog giving me evil looks on hot days.
Degrease and pressure wash the condensor. It helps too.
Excellent suggestion, these old tube and fin condensers need all the help they can get!
Excellent video. I have a 1981 Mercedes 240d and I updated the AC to a Klima with a Sanden Compressor. Living in the lower end of the San Juaquin Valley any improvement on the AC system is much appreciated
Any improvements are well worth it, where we live gets quite warm in the summertime and the humidity can get brutal since we are close to a lake, I keep getting tempted to get the stuff and build a parallel flow condenser conversion for my car to go with my sanden upgrade. We'll see, I know it'll happen one day.
hi high pressure side readings will always be better with fan running while compressor engaged instead of waiting for an overload situation then starting the fan . .
The theory is cooler high pressures are [remember pressure = temperature ] the evaporator functions better with a supply of colder refrigerant .
Science! Thanks for the explanation, that would also explain why the parallel flow condensers are a popular upgrade, as they are more efficient at dissipating heat from the refrigerant which is very important with r134a and other modern refrigerants that don't have the same properties as r12 did. I should probably learn more about the science behind ac, I understand enough to get myself in trouble lol
Thanks for informative video,unfortunately in South Africa everyone runs away from you and your W123 when you approach them for help. This is the only part of my 200 A/C MT that is not working.
It isn't a lot different in the US, I know of very few shops that have any semblance of knowledge or even the tools to work on my w123s, so I end up doing pretty much everything myself.
Is your entire AC system not functional or just the aux fan? I'm happy to offer any tidbits of knowledge I may be able to offer, I'm certainly no expert, but I'm happy to offer whatever I can!
👍
hi R12 @130psi =110F/43c R134@150psi= 110F / 43c
All commercial refrigeration / air-conditioning using above gas is running around these pressures
Modern vehicles are running 200--290psi 130--160F refrigerant temp
Upwards [ 160f down 110f ]50f or 28cel free cooling WOW ...
Evaporator performance will increase ALOT
Great video. Did the cleaner come with the extension hose? If it did not can you please let me know where to order? Thanks
It did not, I had a whole spool of the stuff I got from somewhere, but this would be essentially the same stuff, little thicker wall but should slip over the straw relatively well: amzn.to/2UmoVUJ I've added it to the description as well, because evidently I forgot to! Thanks for reminding me!
Great video. You've taught me a great deal about my W123 systems. I'm still trying to get my aux fan to work. I replaced the bearings and that seems to be an improvement, but I'd like to test the system properly.
1. Do you know what kind of amps the motor draws? (It didn't budge with my DC power supply but direct to a battery, it sprang to life with gusto.)
2. Is there a way to test the aux fan with a jumper wire on the pins under the relay? I'm getting 12v at one of the pins, and I tried a jumper across that pin to another that had continuity with the fan plug, but nothing happened.
I know they draw some serious amperage, I haven't personally measured mine, but I have heard somewhere in the 10-15A range is fairly expected, I'm sure some would depend on the bearing condition and general health of the motor.
If I'm looking correctly, Jumpering pin 3 to pin 1 on the aux fan "ice cube relay" should power it to life.
Ground should be constant on one of the wires going to the fan, and 12V should be provided to the relay pin #3 by Fuse C which would be a 16A Red fuse, Top right in the fuse panel under the hood, when the relay is commanded on it connects 3 to 1 which goes directly to the fan connector.
I've had issues with the little fuses getting corrosion on the ends and seemingly providing power as tested with a multimeter but not making a good enough connection to actually run anything.
Hola Juan, en mi w 123 300 d el ventilador auxiliar enciende por TEMPERATURA del gas del aire acondiconado...hay un sensor de temperatura en el filtro deshidratador (es de bronce) y está atornillado al filtro....si lo puentéas el ventilador tiene que arrancar....es muy fácil.
@@GabrielaLopez-du5tt si de verdad! sin embargo, puentear ese sensor hará que el ventilador funcione constantemente cuando la llave esté encendida, lo que no es ideal para que el motor alcance la temperatura de funcionamiento o para los momentos en que no esté funcionando el aire acondicionado, pero esa es ciertamente una opción para hacer una modificación muy similar que ¡probablemente ayude al rendimiento de CA, o para probar el ventilador! Pido disculpas si esto no es muy comprensible, lo traduje en Google Translate, el original también se incluye a continuación. ¡gracias por el comentario!
yes indeed! however jumpering that sensor will make the fan run constantly when the key is on, which isnt ideal for getting the engine up to operating temp or for times when im not running the AC, but that is certainly an option to do a very similar modification that likely will help ac performance, or to test the fan! i apologize if this isn't super understandable, i have translated it in google translate, the original is alsoo included below. thanks for the comment!
as far as i know, at the default contidions and all system works properly, aux fan not works below 52 centigrad degree while AC on, but whenever temperature sensor where next to the dryer reads 52 Degree, aux fan begins to work. iam little bit confused about this by pass solution. does not your temperature sensor works properly or is there another problem abour aux fan ? could you tell your main goal please? :) and btw , thankss for your w123 videos !
You're absolutely correct in how it operates, and mine was working properly. The theory is that R134a refrigerant isn't as efficient so the condenser needs more airflow to dissipate the heat, in practice I'm unsure how beneficial it is, but it is a very popular modification, people sell special made wiring kits to do exactly this, and I wanted to test it out and see if it really made any difference.
trythistv, seems like you have been spending a lot time and effort on your ac system.
i wanted to ask your opinion; I have a 1985 300D and the climate controller rattles until the car warm up. I bought another used climate controller and it does the same thing. Thanks for any help.
Is it physically rattling or could it be a relay or one of the vacuum solenoids behind the climate unit rapidly clicking on off due to a bad solder joint?
I've heard they suffer the same fate as the cruise control amps that I ventured into repairing over the winter but I have not yet experienced any issues with the climate control unit itself.
@@trythistv I think it's the relay or relays. I will have to investigate further. Thanks!
7:15 very interesting. Was it really worth all that for a couple degrees difference or did that cleaning make quite a bit difference?
Probably not, but every degree counts when its 1.3 million degrees outside or whatever it was during summer.
Cleaning the evap made me feel good about getting grunge that could have been on there for decades off, made the inside of the car smell fresher for a while too.
@@trythistvUnderstand, very well. May try this on my '84 300D I'm sure its in the same condition or worst, lol. Did you come up with a self made cabin air filter???
I see that you either removed the screw covers on your kick panel or you don’t have any. I can 3d print you a set of 6 and send them your way if you like. I cover them with black vinyl. They aren’t perfect but they look okay. And if you kick panels are blue (which they may be and I just can’t tell) I can just print you some blue ones. I just got some dark blue PLA+. It is the least I can do from enjoying your videos; and I will make a video of how to make them for my UA-cam channel too. So win win.
Its comical that you mention that, I got a 3d printer earlier this year, and I've been collecting models and printing things, like sunvisor clips, throttle bushings, and those pesky little screw covers that seem to vanish whenever I look at them lol
I greatly appreciate the offer, and you can expect plenty more videos on my W123, I've got quite a few projects planned with it this year!
@@trythistv I am glad you have a 3D printer. I can tell from watching your channel you will get a lot of use out of it. I just started learning Fusion and made my first part from scratch for the W123. Right now the car is getting a paint job, but I can hardly wait to try the part. I made a replacement pivot bushing for the earlier version of the throttle linkage (I believe it changed in 1984 or 85 to a different mechanism) but your car uses the same as mine. I will post a video once I get it installed (whether a fail or a success) and also post a link to the 3D file. I hopefully will get my car back from the paint shop next week sometime.
@@trythistv I look forward to watching them.
Great video. According to Kent at Mercedessource, it appears your engine has been factory rebuilt. Are you aware of that?
No, I watch some of kents videos, but I haven't caught how to tell if the engine was factory rebuilt.
It would explain why the compression is so good on this engine, and some other random things I've noticed that seem like they have been touched/disturbed.
Do you happen to know which video or where Kent brings up that information?
@@trythistv ua-cam.com/video/I_8Vcpi-pzE/v-deo.html
@@trythistv ua-cam.com/video/I_8Vcpi-pzE/v-deo.html
Hello. Thanks for your video.
I did a similar job on my w126.
I mean,i unplugged the connector of aux fan from the bulb located on the dryer and connected it to the compressor bulb(also located on dryer),so at the moment the aux fan comes on together to the compressor,hope to improve the AC when I'm stuck in traffic. Could this be a problem?
That should work OK, the only downside is if the compressor is off such as Evaporator has reached target temperature so the ETR kicks the compressor off, or certain other situations where the compressor will cut out the fan will also stop running, which means the head pressure could stay high, which would lead to warmer AC when the compressor kicks back on, and you may lose the function of the aux fan being a failsafe to prevent the engine from overheating, although I believe that is on a separate temperature switch on the block, so that functionality should still be there.
@@trythistv on my w126 the aux fan is the same for AC and head temperature. The fan works on 2 speeds,1st speed is controlled from the bulb on the dryer,the second is controlled from the bulb of the head. I never heard the fan working on 1st(low) speed ,so i thought that the bulb doesn't work and at the moment i bypassed this one as I told you. I have a new dryer and bulb ready to install but I have charged the AC system 5months ago and install the new dryer + bulb again means charge the system again.
The heat never get over 100 degrees(with ac on and stuck in traffic) on my m103,usually it works just above 85 degrees (i have 87degrees thermostat)
OH, my brain is not working 100%, I somehow missed you've got a w126, I was stuck thinking of my W123 fan that is single speed, You're absolutely correct, the 2 stage fan will vary depending on coolant temp, AC pressure, etc so by connecting the aux fan for the AC to the compressor switch you've still got all the function of coolant temp and such, just the head pressure monitoring is at a different point, being whatever the setpoint is for the compressor cutout rather than the fan cutout bulb thingy.
I'd say you'll be A-OK to keep running that for as long as you want, no sense losing your AC charge, especially not in the heat we're having right now!
Hi there , have seen this great video at an earlier time today wanted to follow the steps , but when I opened the amazon link for the relay it showed me couple more items which was kind confusing for me if you could share which one should I get would be great. Thanks
It should take you directly to the one that says Color: 30A 4Pin SPST
Should have the title "ESUPPORT Car Heavy Duty Relay Switch 12V 30A SPST 4Pin Wire Socket Plug Harness Waterproof Electrical Automotive Pack of 5"
That is confusing that they have so many types.
Hopefully this helps!
@@trythistv thanks a lot . could you be reached by email on via sms?
I thought I could send you a picture but I figured it out it does not work , anyhow in the video (@1:47) the black box you lifted, under my box there is only one relay which I think is for the compressor , any idea where could be the first one located?
Oh you should be able to send me an email with pictures attached: tom at trythistv dot com, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
What year and model is yours again? I'll have to do a little research to find out where the other relay is located
@@trythistv Hi I have sent you the picture today
Hi, do u know how mercedes aircon compressor should work? Is it keep on n off like other cars or its stay on? Becoz mine stay on all the time
It should cycle on and off depending on the evap temperature sensor as well as the high pressure switch.
@@trythistv oh like wt i thought theres something wrong with my aircon line, because my compressore keep on and my aux fan wont engage even if my ac on
Unfortunately it appears that the climate control dial switch has gone out. The continuity test on the pins shows that some pins are working and some of the pins are not working. It looks like its going to be an ouch!!!! to find this switch is going to be a bear. We have traced down the wires and so far that switch is the hang up of engaging the clutch on the compressor.
Oh no! I've wondered if my dial is getting worn out, sometimes it randomly seems to start blowing warm air and wiggle the temp knob and it goes back to cool, It usually only happens once or twice per season but I may have to look into what the options are eventually. It is possible that there is a potentiometer/switch type thing available at digikey, mouser or some other electronics place that might work, but I haven't looked into it as of yet. If I do at some point in the future, I'll probably make a video about it and post photos and stuff on my website.
Hi have a question. My ac works but my Compressor does not cut-off. Have new switches on drier and new drier the fan works fine turn on and off but not my Compressor. Any help thanks
So there are a couple things that pop to mind, there is the icecube relays seen in this video, if you switch the AC on, removing one relay should cut the fan off, the other should cut the compressor off.
I suppose I should also ask, is this happening all the time, or did it start after you did the mod shown in this video?
That would narrow it down significantly, if you did the mod and it started, then something is wrong with the mod.
If it was happening before, or is totally unrelated, I'd check the relay, ensure something isn't shorted out or the relay isn't stuck on or something (switch it with the fan relay is a quick way to tell), and the ETR switch (Evaporator temperature regulator switch, could be referred to as the cycling switch), which is somewhere under the passenger side kickpanel (Right hand side of car, passenger if your car is US spec left hand drive, if you're overseas somewhere, I'm not sure where it would be located)
Where you used the relay to connect between the two Original Ice Cube relays would it be possible for a short test to just use a wire to see if the fan will come on?
Absolutely, where I stuck the red wire you can take a wire, shove it in, stick the fan relay in (where I put the red wire controls the relay so the relay needs to be in there) and then stick the other side of the wire to a ground source (engine block, negative battery terminal, where I put the yellow and black wires under the compressor relay, etc), if the fan doesn't run, it could be the fuse, the relay, wiring inbetween or the fan motor itself is bad
Thank you for your reply. I have another question. So if I put the red wire in as you directed and left that wire in that would mean the fan would be running all the time when the car was on? Would that be a bad thing to do? Other than extra wear and tear on the fan it should provide extra cooling for the engine all the time, especially if it's hot out. Probably wouldn't have it in the winter, just during hot weather. Is my assumption correct?
By the way, my AC works but my fan has never come on. I checked the wires where they connect to the dryer and they are on there, the fan is plugged in down by the driver side wheel well oh, there is a relay where it should be and the fuse is in place for the fan. My guess was either the relay for the fan or the temperature switch on the dryer is bad. In hot weather the radiator temp starts to climb when the car is at idle or I am driving it start stop in town. I imagine if the fan was on like it's supposed to be it would never do that. But I was considering it's a fan was on all the time where the air was on or not it probably wouldn't hurt anything in hot weather.
Right, pin 5 on the fan relay (closer to front of car) to any ground source will make the fan run constantly when the key is on.
It is also a lot of amperage, I've heard of people having issues with the plastic fuses melting (always get ceramic fuses if possible), also with the stock 55a alternator it may drain the battery if you're idling a lot. (I've got a 115a alternator upgrade in both of my w123s so battery drain is no issue)
Yeah, that's not right. I'd definitely try jumping it, if it doesn't come on, it may be the fan is broken, I made a video about replacing the bearing in the fan, and someone commented and we tracked down new brushes if the windings are ok the entire fan could be rebuild quite cheaply.
Hi Any link to that relay you used?
This is the one I used: amzn.to/3mXMIUo
Can you tell what relays you use and how and where I buy
Sure! Here is a link to them: amzn.to/3vT8stx
I put all the stuff I used in the description of the video as well, but that has been getting more and more complicated to find.
Hi would like to know if it could also work for w 126?
It should be very similar, likely not exactly the same but a lot of things are comparable between the W123 and W126 models.
@@trythistv thanks a lot for a quick response I will give it a try sometime and let you know thank you
What refrigerant are you using
R134a, I have toyed with the ideas of some of the alternative refrigerants, I've heard great success with r152a (air duster) and some other "alternative refrigerants", I'm not opposed to trying it at some point, but if it works amazing and I want to make a video about it could be legally troubling though lol
My new relay has numbered 30 87 85 and 86. I'm not sure which ones to plug in where. All the wires are brown.
Oops, Hadn't thought of that. so, 30 and 87 are the equivalent of red and yellow in my diagram, 85 and 86 are the equivalent of white and black. So I would wire 30 and 85 together where the black and yellow wires go in my diagram, wire 86 to where the white goes, and wire 87 to where the red wire goes. Hopefully that makes sense to you!
In this use case since you could switch them around to make neater wiring if needed, as long as you use the switched side (30 and 87) in places where the red and yellow are, and use the control (85 and 86) in the places where the black and white wires are. Or for simplicity just go with what I said in the first paragraph.
Wow that was fast! Thank you so much.
Glad to help! Hope it helps keep your ac just a tad bit cooler this summer!
U running r12?
I am not, Im running 134a and might have tested 152a (air duster) while visiting Mexico where the EPA has no jurisdiction, I do have some r12 but I've got a small leak somewhere so I don't want to fill with that r12 until I've got it sorted out so it won't need a recharge every year or two
Tons more ?
Indeed. I've got at least 3 more videos specifically about AC improvements on the W123 in the works, and between 9 and 14 videos sitting I need to edit and upload about other things I've done to my car unrelated to the AC.
I'm not sure how many videos I have filmed about other stuff unrelated to my car that needs to be sorted, edited and uploaded... I just had to buy another hard drive because mine was full of video footage...
I need more time in the day to get these videos done...
If you haven't seen the other AC videos, here is a list of the ones I've done thusfar:
Aux fan mod & Evap cleaning (This video): ua-cam.com/video/-ydCsCSxiiA/v-deo.html
Sanden conversion: ua-cam.com/video/5XsvmXj49fs/v-deo.html
Monovalve connector issues: ua-cam.com/video/cuYCvgt2WYI/v-deo.html
Recirc mod: ua-cam.com/video/0lYppFBIuzg/v-deo.html
Aux fan bearing replacement: ua-cam.com/video/NlI09Suc0SM/v-deo.html