MINI Cooper Control Arm Bushings done on the car-cutoff method - Powerflex
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) to cut out the old bushings without lowering the subframe.
Useful if you don't have a hot enough torch to get the old ones out and don't want to remove the brackets from the car. . Great method for lower control arm polyurethane Powerflex bushing replacement. (Buy them here: amzn.to/2ymTmyd )
Note - it may be easiest to remove the inner ball joints by removing the axles and pulling the two bolts out of the top. The axle nuts are 32mm. Use a pry bar to pop them out of the transmission.
I got the general idea from these guys - thanks, these guys!
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Thanks Mod Mini ... I will be doing my control arm bushings, inner and outter ball joints. That tool you made to press the bushings in I pretty much replicated it... so for the benefit of everyone on this thread ... I went to Home Depot ... got a 1/2 inch Threaded Rod $1.57, 1/2 inch washers $.33 a piece, 1/2 inch floor flange $4.21 each ... The tool is just about $11 bucks to make. Hope this helps!
Thank you so much for sharing this, how much of each part did you need to make the tool? I will be replacing my bushings soon
2 rods, 2 flanges, 6 nuts, at least 4 washers.
Highly appreciated!
@@Yetterben yes i also wondered about that
Just made mine, thanks(8 years later) Patrick for the tip
Just did this. I used 2- 1/2" floor flanges, 1- 5/8" x 12" stainless threaded rod, 2- 5/8" washers, and 3- 5/8" stainless hex nuts. I tried it first with a 1/2" threaded rod but stripped the threads before the first bushing pressed in. The 5/8" stainless rod had no problem pressing them in.
Thanks pianogrey. I used your set up and it worked fine for me. No problems with the rod even coming close to stripping out or bending. My bushing was kinking up but I pushed it up with a jack and got it to eventually pop in.
Hey, I'm getting ready to try this. Does the 1/2" floor flange fit over the 5/8" rod?
@@rickrothmund5934 Replying for future readers like me, i'm gonna do this tomorrow and it fits, i have the size between 1/2" and 5/8" which in metric is M14 (M12 is 1/2) and the flange sits fine with space for next size which is M16 which is 5/8", i'm gonna try it tomorrow, will probably report here the results.
A huge thank you AGAIN, Mod MINI. Saved a ton of money doing it myself with your help. And HOLY COW my car handles like it did straight out of the dealer! 14 years later and 100k miles! Woohoo! I want to drive it all day long.
Omg ! I just bought every thing for the front end . I had a loud sound while going over bumps and didn’t think about the control are bushings . Thanks for you help you saved me from stroking out . 😵💫blood pressure was high for sure till I saw this . THANK YOUUU
For those with trouble reinstalling the control arm into the new bushing (as I did - spent well over an hour trying to get them in unsuccessfully): I used two 4" hose clamps, daisy-chained, and wrapped it around the back of the bushing housing and through the hole in the control-arm closest to the bushing. Tighten it up with a driver and it pulls it right in.
Another commenter suggested a ratcheting strap - I didn't have one short enough to try this, but it's the same principle (and I had the hose clamps in one of my many piles of junk).
Thank you for the help!!!!!!!
Mini Mod, YOU are the man! I would have sold my Mini a year ago if it weren't for you!
Hi there from the U.K. Thanks for your great videos,I like the way you always seem to remain cool and collected. Normally when I do jobs like this there is a lot of swearing ha ha. Just a quick tip that may or may not help someone. If you are replacing the bushes with standard ones, (nor Powerflex) when you come to insert the lower arm into the bush it will be very, very tight, almost to the point where you won't be able to force it in. I have found that getting the arm just into the bush and then using a pair of large water pump pliers enables you to squeeze the lug on the arm and the casing together forcing the arm to go into the bush. It takes about 20 seconds to insert the arm as opposed to half a day shouting at the dam thing to go in! All the best, Mike
+MikeJF355 Well that's for two reasons: 1. I've done these jobs several times before 2. I edit out the bad parts. That's a good tip you are sharing. Another trick is to use a nylon ratcheting strap to pull it all together.
One of these days I need to do a better quality and more detailed version of this video...
I've just come indoors after 4 hours trying to get the bush to seat fully so this is a satisfying comment to find as I just assumed I had done something wrong. I will try these methods tomorrow. I am using 'problem solving bushes' which I assume are a UK brand, they look good and were cheap compared to powerflex. Not fun laying in the snow doing this job.. wish me luck for tomorrow guys!
wow that was made so easy and without dropping the the subframe. genius! thanks
Thanks for this detailed repair, did it on my daughter 2005 R52, I used ratchet tie-down strap to dismount the arm from the bush and to mount powerflex bushes, I left a tip, happy Christmas from France.
Thank you!
Today I replaced my control arm bushings with Mevotech parts, the metal shell and the bushing in one. It was a pretty horrible job, had to drop the subframe as mentioned. In retrospect I wish I'd found this video, it would have been less expensive and far easier to do. But it didn't show up on my YT feed until today for some reason. Thanks though!
Thanks for the instructions! Did this on my r53 while my subframe was out during m6 clutch job. I used a stock style bushing already pressed in by Mevotech and found slipping them onto the control arm much more difficult than the removal. Seems the Powerflex units slid on much easier in your video and should have gone that route.
Yes. It requires quite a lot of force to install the OE style bushing. I usually pound them in.
I fix my mini r56 when I find your video. thank you
Just wanted to say thanks for replying to my questions, I completed both sides today.
Thanks for this info. Did the job nicely on my 2002 mini. keep up the good stuff!
Cool as usual. Always nice to see how you do it. Keep up the great work!. I may need to do this because I'm noticing somewhat of a change in my steering, doesn't seem as tight as it us to be, but when i did the front brakes the other day i neglected to check of any play if any can be noticed. Ties and upper and lowers seem fine.
Kick your tires. If they move, bushings are bad.
Hi Mod Mini. Thanks for all your diy info. I need to know how to separate the inner ball joint the both left and right control arm. thanks
It's not easy. I use a pickle fork with the tips cut a little shorter, and a thick washer cut into the shape of a letter "C". Or, pull the drive axles out of the transmission and then remove the bolts holding the inner ball joints onto the subframe, and then whack out using a hammer on the workbench.
*****
thank you mod mini appreciate your reply
The problem is that I do not know any shop have the experience in MINI and the dealer want way to much price. I totally knew how to replace it from your video, but here is the thing could I doing by myself .
Fadoola 16 Ask around at your local MINI club or any European car shop. Only you know whether you have enough skill to try doing yourself.
A few tips from a lady..I ran into obstacles with each and every step, so let me break it down on some easy tips:
1. pickle fork the ball joint from the outer control arm (you can replace the dust boot from O'Reilly's in the performance section. They're red which is cool) You may need to pickle for the inner ball joint as well, just make sure to push the grease boot up so you don't damage it.
2. Cutting into the housing on the control arm and the housing for the bushing isn't that scary. I got it done within 5-7 minutes with a reciprocating saw
c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/10124338/prod_1491432512?hei=416&wid=416&op_sharpen=1
3. The best way I found to build the apparatus for pressing the new bushing in was to go to Home Depot, get a 3/8" rod, 4 washers, 4 nuts (4 because it pays to get extra in case your boyfriend breaks or bends it) $5 (buy yourself some lube while you're there, you're going to need it). Then go to O'Reilly's and rent the ball bearing press kit ($120, but you get your $ back upon return). Use the outer plates on your homemade apparatus. This is about the only thing I could find that would fit my mini.
Lubricate the hell out of the bushing housing. When you have everything aligned for the press, make sure to pull down on the rod, because once the bushing starts to go in on one side, it will automatically pull the rod up. This will take a lot of strength, but stick with it, a few more cranks and she'll be in.
4. once you've cranked the bushing in as far as it will go, use a ratchet strap attached to the control arm and the other end further under the carriage and crank it in all the way. I found it helpful to use my jack to hold the arm in alignment while doing this. so make sure the middle bolt is aligned somewhat in the arm before going crazy.
5. Getting the middle bolt all the way in may be a job in itself. Just use your hammer and hammer against the very inside of the "boomerang" close to the bolt. You can spray silicone to aid with process. It shouldn't be too hard, just be patient.
6. Crank the wheel all the way to the right (if you're working on the passenger side) or all the way to the left (if working on the driver's side) in order to get the outer ball joint to align and get back in the arm. Also, using the jack under the disc will help alleviate any pressure on the arm and help in getting that bolt back in. Don't forget the grease boot before doing this!
7. When tightening the nuts, remember that if the bolt begins to turn with it, you need to use an Allen wrench. I found that purchasing an open ended ratcheting wrench set help tremendously. (I'm sure I'll use it for future projects) I used it for pressing in the bushing and again when tightening the nuts on the control arms. ($49)
c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_541330301?hei=416&wid=416&op_sharpen=1
It took me 4 days all in all. First time. Yes, I'm a girl :)
+Kimberlee Rich Great description and tips - this pretty much captures how challenging/dirty the job can be. But it's worth it for the polyurethane bushings right? Big difference in handling.
Thanks for the suggestion about replacement grease boots. Hadn't thought of that.
OMG thank you so much......the suggestion about using the jack saved me big time.....I was getting so frustrated...after I started using the jack I was done in like 15minutes
Did mine today using the same method - Your tip about using the ratchet strap & jack to re-insert the control arm into the bush housing worked a treat..👍
@@Lee-mn748 Glad it worked well! ..smarter, not harder! :)
Also consider getting a delete kit for the vaccum pump take care of all that oil down there that is eating your bushings
you can remove the drive shafts to gain access to the bolts that hold the inner ball joint onto the control arm . drive shafts have to be removed so the long bolts can come out. this is how i do them without using a pickle fork .
Yes that's the other way
Yaaaaa did this 20 times with no luck...no matter what I do it kicks to one side or the other and I gotta loosen to re tighten...tried to hammer and make it relevel to no luck
Four days ago, I had a shop install new.LCA bushings. Instead of power flex they ordered 2 from direct imports. They sawzalled out the old. bushings but when it came time to install the new ones I was surprised to see them grind off all the paint from the new bushings. Then they had to use a rotary grinder to take a bit off the leading edge of the carrier on the left (driver's) side. Then they greased up the carrier and even with all the grease and grinding, it took 2 men awhile to pound in the bushings with a big hammer and a piece of steel. They pounded quite awhile, especially on he left side. It was difficult for me to watch.
I've put about 100 miles on the car since then (2005 Mini S R52 with about 70K miles). Last night I was pulling out of my driveway when I smelled a lot of gas and the car began to stall out. There was a puddle of gas under the car. The next day when it was light, I looked under the hood which it was difficult to open, and that was a first on this car. The pull cable worked but it was like one side of the hood was stuck. The pull cable opened the hood just a tiny bit and I could barely get my fingers in there to release it. That's unusual.
I checked around the engine and saw there were 2 small holes in the fuel feed line on the left hand side of the engine (while facing the engine or the passenger side of the engine). It looks as if this braided cable had been rubbing against the hood and wore 2 holes in it from friction, but that's just speculation. I read up on the feed line replacement and saw you have to remove the subframe to install a new one (it's a $70 part).
My question is could the pounding by the mechanics have caused the hose to kink up or the subframe to go out of whack? I know the carriers are attached to the subframe. I'm wary since the hood doesn't open easily now and the fuel feed line has the 2 small holes in it. Or do you think these are unrelated and this might be just a giant coincidence?
Thanks for your time and help. BTW if I'd have known they were going to have to do all that pounding, I would have waited for the power flex ones. Never again will I let the car go through that kind of beating.
Thanks again for any help or advice you can provide.
Sometimes you just have to pound things. There is no paint on bushings. Do you mean the bushing carriers or the control arm?
What were they pounding on? The OEM rubber bushings are meant to be pressed in, not hammered in. Even so, I don't see how hammering in that area could cause your other problems.
Pounding would not cause fuel line to rub on bonnet. Rather than replacing the entire tube, You might be able to just splice in a length of fuel line hose and some hose clamps. I don't know where they were pounding and I suppose it's possible it's related to bonnet not opening but it would take a lot to bend a vehicle frame. Best thing would be to take back to the shop and ask them about it.
maybe the bushings weren't for this car?? out of the box, they had black paint on them. the shop grinded off the paint to get to the silver part underneath. they inserted them into the carrier (the round tube like opening that holds the bushing) but it was such a tight fit they had to literally pound them in. it appeared to me to be metal to metal contact (carrier being metal and bushing being metal). they told me the paint on the bushing was temporary and was on there just to prevent rust during shipping. they were close to or actually were this one here: www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OPC0/BU09018/02936.oap?year=2002&make=Mini&model=Cooper&vi=1387863&ck=Search_C0318_1387863_-1&pt=C0318&ppt=C0106
after they pounded them in, which took 2 guys a minimum of 30 minutes on each side, they stuck the end of the control arm in the center of the bushing. the control arm was bare and didn't have anything fitting on it when they inserted it into the bushing. i thought it was weird at the time but they assured me this is how it's done for the non-powerflex type of bushings.
i did ask the shop about the fuel line and any connection to their work when installing the bushings. they said they didn't open the hood so they couldn't have caused the problem. since you say, it would be difficult for someone pounding on the bushings to get them into the carrier to bend the subframe, then it's probably a co-incidence.
I've thought about repairing the line but it's braided and there are two holes. one is very close to the cover on the cylinders (forget the name). i'll have to check out how to fix a braided hose... i'm sure there's a way.
thanks again for your help. i appreciate it very much and i love watching your videos.
They should be pressed in with a hydraulic press and the shop should have known that. I guess hammering would work but it would take a lot and it would take care to avoid deforming them. But I've never seen MINI Cooper bushings with paint on them. Pretty sure the fuel line is just regular fuel line. Any braiding should be just to prevent chafing.
you're probably right. the black stuff they grinded off was probably a thin coat of rubber, not black paint. maybe they didn't have a hydraulic press. i got really nervous when they pulled out a rotary tool and grinded down the leading edge of the carrier so they could get it in.
i drove 20 miles for the service at this particular shop because they had a pretty good reputation. :(
anyway, will these bushings be okay with the rubber removed? (i saw on your video that you cut through just past the thin metal band on the bushing to get it out). on my car that metal band inside the bushing is what is in contact with the carrier, with no rubber between them.
They ground down the carrier? That's a hack job and I'm sure they knew it. The bushings should be fine. Usually it's metal on metal without any thin coating. If they just took off the coating, it's probably fine. If they cut off that outer metal ring, that's definitely not fine. But still a hack job.
I would love to see how you got the control arms off. I can't tell which year you are working on, but on my 2009, the control arm does not pop off easily like all the videos I have seen. The pivot point is captive by the transaxle boot compared to all the videos I have seen where it just releases down and out.
I suspect this method does not work on the R56 subframe.
Great video (all of yours). After ordering the new Powerflex bushings (and the tool to remove the old ones) from BavAuto, and watching this 3 times, I realized that the original metal bushings are being REPLACED by these power flex bushings! Correct? There is a tool (I saw in another video) to install new metal bushings (or I suppose the Powerflex as well) which I didn't order. I kept thinking I was missing something and didn't see any metal bushings in the Power Flex kit. I haven't been under the car yet (Dec), but made a precautionary order (Black Monday) as the tire store told me they were bad. Why isn't just easier to remove the brackets from the car? And I wish someone would suggest that while you're under there with everything apart, you might as well replace the ball joints too. I'll make the tool you showed to draw them in. Thank you so much.
Carrier brackets reused, silver metal part of the old bushings go away. Removing brackets from car requires subframe removal. That may or may not be easier depending on what tools you have. With a decent shop, subframe is easiest. Ball joints last a long time but makes sense to replace if you are removing everything.
既存ブッシュをレシプロソーでぶった切るって発想は無かったです。参考になりました。
Hi Mod, I appreciate what you have done here. I'm half way into this repair and haven't figured out how you removed the control arms from the old bushings. Did you cut them out with the saws all? Thanks, Mike
Nice going dummy! I just looked at your posted link, Guess I'll go look for a pry bar
:-) ..... Mom always said to read all the instructions. Thanks again, Mike
I slice the old bushing center with a disk grinder and then pry it off.
Mod MINI Where I can apply for that kind of tools that don't sell on Amazon
Pressed out the old bush no problem, new one in easily. However can not get the control arm back on with the inner ball joint
ratchet strap and pry bar
Hi mod mini. A little question, the control arm bushing consists of two tubes. A inner tube with a specific form made from metal and rubber. And than there is another metal tube. Lets say a second layer. Do you have to remove both layers or only the inner one?
Joeri Polfliet Remove the bushing but not the carrier. Remove the thin silver metal tube that is about 1mm thick but not the forged black carrier that is about 8mm thick.
Thanks ‘muchly’ only unclear part, is how do you push the arm back in while the inner ball joint in lines up?
Pry bar or a ratcheting strap
Here is a short video why you want this upgrade!!!
The power of Powerflex
Hi Mod MINI. Thanks to you I succeded to replace the control arm bushings. Do you have also a video how to replace rear trailing arm bushings? I want to replace them as well with the powerflex bushing (the complete bushing with the metal pieces). Do I have to cut off the original bushing or will the come out easily?
Joeri Polfliet For the rear? I don't have a video for that. There are a couple bolts that should allow the entire arm to come out and control arm mounting bracket to come out and you can cut or press the old bushing out. You will definitely need a 4 wheel alignment after doing that. They are the same bolts that are used to adjust rear track / toe.
Adding some information to help people with this very difficult project. I had a very difficult time getting the poweflex bushing to go in straight, tried about 50 times and failed. I finally bought the BMW tool from Amazon (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTN9ERH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it worked perfectly. I also froze the bushing overnight, and used Windex for lube, was previously using dish soap which may have been too slippery. But this combination of tool frozrn bushing, and windex did the trick...took me about 15 minutes after struggling for 3-4 hours with homemade tool setup.
Hey man thank you very much for the videos you're a lifesaver!! How did you get the inner ball joint for the control arm apart. Basically what I'm asking is if you could just let me know how you got the control arm off which bolts or nuts did you take off because I tried my joint tool and pry bar everything for the inner one and can't seem to get it! Please help! Thanks again 😀
Inner ball joint can be really hard. I use a pickle fork with the tips cut about 15mm shorter, otherwise the tips will hit the subframe. You also may need to weld a spacer on to the pickle fork since it might be a tad too skinny. Then hit really hard with a BFH.
I found sanding down/softening the leading edge of the outer poly bushing helps with pressing it in.
Hi there. Thanks for the video. Will surely once again save me tons of money. Do you have an opinion on polyurethane bushings vs OEM? Thanks!
I prefer the polyurethane. Car is much more responsive with only a small increase in harshness. I think they last longer as well.
*****
I've never installed the yellow ones. I have the black (race) control arm bushings on my car and most people opt for the purple ones. I suspect even yellow is still a significant upgrade over stock.
How'd you drop the control arms? Did you have to replace the ball joints?
Mr MOD MINI can U please post the bushings / and a place U recommend to buy them and whom u bought them from, thanks
Powerflex bushings. Probably best to just buy from the source: powerflexusa.com
Thanks. ..
Hey mod,
Sorry if you've already answered the question.. Tackling this today and don't want to mess up my ball joints! How did you separate control arm from ball joint without damage? Just the pickle forks?
+Tokenontwo PIckle fork, if they are stubborn or you are worried about damage, remove left and right axles and pull the two inner ball joint bolts on each side and leave them connected to the control arm.
this is great; how much force is needed to get the bolts off of the control arm and is the 4 jack stand system you used secure enough
Do you mean the amount of force to separate the ball joints from the control arm? Outer ball joints you can separate by removing the two 13mm bolts and hitting the knuckle with a hammer until it falls out.
The inner one is a bit tougher as there is no way to hammer it. You need to use a modified pickle fork or an inner ball joint separating tool. Sometimes they come out easy, sometimes they put up a bit of a fight. Be careful not to damage the grease boot.
4 jack stands is plenty secure. That's how I do all work to the car. Just make sure all the jacks are centered and secure - make sure none of them are leaning. Sometimes you need to go back around to the other side and lift it up just a bit to even out the weight.
See my 4 jackstand video here:
Put MINI Cooper on 4 Jackstands the Easy Way R50-R52-R53 Howto
Hi, I do love your videos. Do you have one on removing the front control arms, or links to a good guide? Thanks :)
This video covers removal of control arms. If you are going to be installing stock lower control arm bushings, you'll need to remove the subframe. See one of my clutch replacement videos for how to remove the subframe.
Hi, Thanks for the video, attempting to do both my front ones currently, only problem is Im having trouble removing the arm, removed both ball joint nuts and it just wont budge, an tips welcome please !
Pry and twist like the wind.
Thank you for the video
Do you, per chance, know the size of the bushing? I found a bushing press specifically for the MINI Cooper, but I also found a kit that has different sizes... and they're about the same price. So I figure, get the kit with the various sizes, but only if it has the appropriate size for the MINI. Please advise, thanks...
And also, I sincerely appreciate your videos... they give me a heads-up on the PITA-Meter so I can venture whether or not it's worth it for me.
Just found out this morning that my driver size one is terrible. How do I make a bushing press like the one you made? What are the plates on it?
***** Just crawl under the car and measure the diameter, find a suitable size plate. I am not sure the size, probably around 3.5 inches.. This a plumbing fitting I found at the local hardware store.
***** I bought some pre pressed ones thinking that it would make life easier because I don't have a sawzal and found out I have to lower the subframe. Do you have any videos with a how to on lowering the subframe?
*****
Watch either of my clutch replacement videos for how to remove the subframe.
SUPER VIDEO ! Merci pour les astuces très utiles+++++++++++
Hi sir, Could I ask you about mini thing?
like how can i replace the power steering rack and lines in my mini and Is it fun if I do it by myself?
thank you
You need to drop the subframe. See my clutch replacement videos for how to do that.
Is it fun? That depends on your definition of 'fun.'
I'm sorry I spelled it wrong. I mean is it fine if i do it by myself. changing the power steering rack. or I should take it to workshop. because i heard that the rack is hydraulic, and not anyone can replace it.
Fadoola 16 The problem is not the rack. It is basic steering technology that has been around for years. Any shop can replace that. The problem is the front of the car has to come of and the subframe must come out. I'd prefer only having that work done by a shop that knows what they are doing, which should be any European shop with MINI experience.
Great videos Mod Mini - thanks for posting them. I used them to replace all my ball joints, tie rods and control arm bushings in my 03 R53. Afterwards I ran into an issue with the "Trifecta" ABS/tire pressure/Brake light problem. A month later I'm still troubleshooting it. Is it true that if you replace the tie rods you have to get the steering angle sensor reset? I get a 5E40 and 5E43 ABS fault that won't clear. Appreciate the help.
you need to scan the ABS/DSC module. The code and / or logging / activation tests will tell you what's wrong.
@@ModMINI I scanned them and put in my reply under your other video on control arm bushing, removing sub frame. Any ideas, please reply in the other video post? Thanks for your help.
Hi Mod Mini. Love watching your videos and attempting to change to power flex bushing for the first time. I am struggling with removing the control arms. What i've done so far is removed the outer 18mm and inner 21mm nuts consecutively from the outer and inner ball joints from the bottom of the control arm. Shouldn't the control arm come off now, or what should i do? The control arm is just jammed in there...would really appreciate any suggestion/advise.
Faisal Farid you have to bang and pry on it. Put the Nuts back on by hand so you don't hurt the threads. Hit the part through which the ball point passes with a large sledge hammer. Outer ball joint should fall out fairly easily. Inner ball joint is a bit harder. If you can't get it to come out, might need to remove the subframe
thanks for your replies; I have not been able to remove/release the inner ball joint; can you describe the tool you used and where it can be purchased.
The tool you would need is BMW312240 but this costs $150. A standard pickle fork with the tips cut shorter works too and that is what I use if we are not replacing the joint. Be careful to not damage the grease boot. Alternately, lower the subframe and unbolt the inner ball joint from the subframe, then pound out with a hammer if you are going to replace it.
Great video! Having issues with installing the new OEM bushing back in with this method! Anyone have any tips for installing the new bushings easily? Maybe I should go with polyurethane?
Go Polly bush
After changing the control arm bushings and outer ball joints, should a front end alignment get done or am I good to go?
+greg arifian Outer ball joints you might be OK, but you definitely need alignment if you touch control arm bushings or inner ball joints.
As I cut through the bushing, the inside metal reinforced rubber came out.
Is this the entire bushing? Or dose the metal ‘collar’ come out of the carrier as well?
Thanks in advance, and
Thanks for the great tutorial.
KCB
Cut everything except the painted black part.
Nowadays these bushings come with the holder bracket, they cost a bit more but do you think it’s a good idea? Thanks.
if you don't have a way of pressing in the new bushings.
Hi thanks you so much for your tutorials.
Questions, will I need an alignment after replacing this bushing? I mean since you have to remove the control arm.
Last week I had an alignment done thinking that It would stop the severe swaying/wonder from side to side on my car but I didnt. Then I look underneath the car and realized the control arm bushings are shot.
+Frank Native Yes.
Im in the process of doing this now per your video. Could you recommend what i need to make the tool. I know ill need a piece of threaded rod but what can i use thats tough enough to press in the new bushings? Thanks as your videos are the greatest.
What did you use to remove the inner ball joint? Mine is stuck!
Thanks for your reply;
thanks for the reply; if the pickle fork with tips cut shorter is used (how much is cut off? with hax saw blade?) how do you keep from ruining the rubber grease boot and keep from replacing the inner ball joint?
I see you change the bushing on the car , any reason why don't take them out and do it on a table , I just wondering if there is a reason thanks
Not everyone has the gear to safely remove the subframe.
oh I didn't know , you know of any videos of the remove of the sub frame thanks
love your videos
Clutch replacement videos start with subframe removal.
thanks
Cannot stop the bushes from going crooked when pressing them in, how did you overcome that ? Thanks
Persistence. Takes several times. Working quickly helps.
Thank you for you great videos!! I have been chasing down a “clunk” in my 2006 mcs front right side. Currently I replaced all 4 shocks with the orange Koni shocks, new upper strut mounts, and a Alta 22 rear seat bar. Still had the “clunk”. Tested and replaced the lower control arm bushings per this video, and got it 2:45 wheels up to wheels down. Great tips btw! And yet, I still have the “clunk” when I go over bumps. I put it back on the jacks and shook the front seat bar, with a little bit of rattle from it. Nothing out of the exhaust either. Any tips or directions I should try next?
Loose bolt somewhere, or sway bar bushings or end links maybe?
I did replace the right side sway bar link, sadly it didn’t solve the issue. A friend came over to help me shake the car side to side while I searched for the source, and it looks like the sway bar bushings. I have a set of Powerflex coming in now, and W.M.W. says that is possible to replace them without dropping the entire subframe. They suggest just removing the back 6, and 2 side bolts will allow enough room the loosen the bolts and slide the bushings out. Hopefully they will come in this week so I can try it and do my reduced pulley as well. Once again, thank you for all of your great videos. You have given me the knowledge to save myself a ton of money.
@@tomdaugherty2912 Were you ever able to figure out where the sound was coming from? I'm about 99% certain I have the same issue.
@@TheIdiotechnical I was able to resolve the issue. Unfortunately the C.A.B.'s did need to be replaced, however they were not the source of the "clunk". It ended up being the front sway bar bushings. You can replace them with out dropping the subframe like I did, but i do not suggest it. I put the car up on ramps, and had a friend shake the car side to side while I held on the sway bar, and sure enough it was sliding back and forth. Good luck, I hope this helps.
Question, can I use the loaner tool that various auto part stores have or do I need a specific one?
good video.
Bonjour es ce que votre méthode est ok pour les Mini r56 ?
My car is a 2002 and has 23k miles. I just had the power steering recall done at the dealer and they did a complementary safety check and said that the control arm bushings should be replaced. I did a visual inspection today and didn't see any damage. Do the factory units fail because of age or miles? I'm wondering if I should do this repair?
They all fail over time as the rubber dries out. If you look closely you'll probably see cracks, but the easiest way to tell is to kick the front tires toward the back of the car. If they wobble more than 1-2mm, the bushings should be replaced.
How did you remove the lower arm from the ball joint? I had to unscrew the 2 (13mm) screws on the ball joint and take out the entire thing
Do that, or liberally loosen (but do not remove) the big 18mm bolt and hit it hard with a sledge hammer until it pops loose. There is also a ball joint separator tool that is a little tricky to use.
Hi Mod, I have a quick question; I'm having trouble removing the inner ball joints on the control arm and am going to try a pickle fork next, but my main concern before pulling them off is how to get the control arm back on the inner ball joints. If they are that stubborn to get off, will they be able to slide back on? Any other tips or tricks for those ball joints?
+Kristofer Frede Stubborn to get off but they go back on just fine. Sometimes they can be very hard to get out. I'm going to recommend just pulling the axles and removing the two inner ball joint bolts, then taking out the entire inner ball joint together with the control arm. Less chance of something going wrong... easy to damage the ball joints with a pickle fork and then need to replace them...
Hey there mini boss, I didnt see a reference to the control arm bushing tool you used. I have my subframe removed, and can remove the housings easily. Is there a tool that will remove the bushing, without the sawsall? Just a preference.
Hydraulic press
I don't have this bushing you have. I have the same bushing that is originally on the car. I can not get the control arm in buhing. it is 17 degrees outside and I am guessing that rubber is just so hard I can't get it in.
+Renji Hayashi You have to squish pretty hard but if it's that cold it might be impossible. Maybe try warming the bushing before starting? Warm in the oven or put in a pot of hot water?
+Mod MINI the thing is the bushings are already on the car. I bought them already installed in the bracket because I thought it would be easier
+Renji Hayashi So the problem is just pushing the control arm rod part into the bushing? Use a ratcheting strap and wrap it around somewhere suitable to pull it into the bushing. If it's really cold, you might still need to warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer or something.
+Mod MINI I will give it a try. Thanks again.
+Renji Hayashi Never mind, you said you have stock bushings. You might need to press them on using a press like this one www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html or hammer them on. (Assemble the bushing/control arm first and then bolt onto the subframe) The middle of the bushing is metal, not rubber.
What’s the easiest way you use to separate that middle ball joint that goes through the middle of the wishbone when you remove the wishbone
Percussive hammering and heat seem to work best.
My inner balljoint bolts are seized tight. Any tricks up your sleeve?
Heat and a big hammer.
You know there's an easy way on doing this
Hello
Do you remove the cradle from the car to perform this repair. My car is a 2008 mini clubman r55 diesel 110 hp
thanks
This method does it without removing the cradle
Hey Mod MINI, when removing the control arm to replace the bushing does the strut spring need to be compressed?
+Henry Hertzler No
You cut them out and others torch them out are they really that hard to change the MINI method? lowering the sub-frame. It looks like you only have to hang the back done to get out the two bolts. Ever try?
+BigSteveRealtor I've done it both ways and it's somewhat faster to cut/torch than to remove the subframe. The bolts are very long and very tight. Hanging the subframe makes it very hard/time consuming to loosen/tighten the bolts as the whole thing is flopping around and tool clearance is not good. If you are going to hang the back of subframe, it's only an extra 10-15 minutes to just lower it completely.
Completely removing the subframe is, however, the least strenuous and least frustrating method. Once you get it out, you can work in a more suitable posture and even go over to the workbench instead of lying on your back.
+Mod MINI I will be doing it on a friends lift with access to air tools. Will that change your thoughts any?
+BigSteveRealtor Same opinion. Air tools won't help when the subframe is just hanging. If anything, the cut 'em out method is easier with a lift.
+Mod MINI We ended you hanging the back end of the sub frame and it was easy to get the brackets out. Fortunately my friend has a 50 ton press to force them out. If you dont have a press and didnt buy the bushes already mounted you method is a must. Question when I pulled my control arms the bushes on both sides ripped out leaving much of the rubber on the arm. We had to air chisel them off. Ever run into that?
+BigSteveRealtor Yes, the core always gets stuck on the control arm. I use a sawzall to slide most of the way through the metal core and then pry off.
Can you replace the inner ball joints with just the dropping the control arms and not the whole subframe?
Not exactly. Removing the inner ball joints require either removing the drive shafts or slightly lowering the subframe. It would have been possible if they designed it so the bolts come out the bottom instead of the top, but oh well.
*****
Easier to drop the subframe or remove the drive shafts? Seems like removing the drive shafts would be less time...
Steven Tellman Removing drive shafts might work. I'll have to try that next time. (Well, pulling drive shaft out of the transmission, but you can leave them connected to the hubs since the ball joint is already removed.
***** I cant see how a pickle fork would not damage the boot however careful you are.... to get out the inner ball joint bolt you can loosen the engine mounts and carefully jack up the engine to clear the bolt or remove the gearbox mount near the power steering fan and tip the engine slightly.
ian gee
I've done it a few times and decided it's easiest to just pull the axles. The bolts are really long and are very tight; removing the axles gives more room to wrench as well. You can actually leave the axle attached to the hub and just pull the gearbox end out (by separating lower ball joint and steering tie rod end to pull hub outward)
I have a quick question? how do i separate the inner ball joint?
I tried a pickle for and I couldn't do anything? Am I missing anything?
+mena morkos Hammer harder. It might need a spacer of some sort if your pickle fork is too thin. These are hard ball joints to separate.
can you grease or lightly oil the two bushing surfaces to get them to mate?
Which surfaces? The polyurethane bushing comes with a special grease.
On the metal carrier I spray a bit of silicone to make it more slippery.
Is this possible with an R56???
I bought the polyurethane pre-pressed into new brackets....Had no idea that I would have to remove the subframe in order to attach new brackets? Any other way around this? Thanks Mod!
Nope, the bolts come out the top.
Damn... Ok. Do any of your videos include a subframe removal walk through? Thanks again
Clutch videos.
Hey K!
Whatever happened to your R53?
New owner sold it on Bring a Trailer
I'm replacing the old bushings with stock ones not the polyurethan, and I Have the tool to press the bushing out and in the frame. To reinsert the control arm into the bushing, do you think I need a special tool or I'll be able to push it in by hand?? Thanks in advance
+mena marks Control arm into the bushing center? Just push it in.
Thank you for your response
My control arm bent so I need to replace it along w/ both ball joints and the bushing however I purchased the bushing pre-pressed into another bracket so I need to remove my brackets to send back the core. Do you have any videos where you removed the bracket or can you give me a crash course on how to remove the bracket?
krushmoto1 You have to drop the subframe. Check out my clutch replacement videos.
+Mod MINI Thanks
How did you get the control arm out? I bent mine also and I’m having trouble taking it out
Hey how you doing, I have a mini 2006 with 120XXX miles on it. The bushings had never been replaced what other bushing other then this ones do i have to be replace?
R53 Source I'd recommend doing the front ball joints at the same time.
do you think the oem outer metal piece is soft enough to hit with a bar in order to distort it?
In order to do what? Push it out of the housing? No, I doubt that would work. It's pressed in there pretty good and any amount of force sufficient to bend it out of the carrier bracket be enough to significantly scratch the bracket itself, and would take along time with anything other than the most powerful impact hammer. One wrong move and you would probably put a hole in the underbody.
Hi Mod, question I have made the tool to press the Powerflex bushings in and man I just can't seem to get these things in. I have the sub frame off so I have tried leaving the housing on the frame and also taken them off. One side keeps in gong in to far and the whole tool just keeps shifting on me. I've tried everything to keep this thing straight but it keeps moving on me. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong but can;t figure it out. Thanks
Keep trying, eventually they will go in.
Hey Mod MINI, I bought the purple poweflex control arm bushings for my mini and and experienced mechanic said he didn't want to install the because when he has used urethane bushings before they pretty much always fail pretty quick and the OEMs were better. So have you ever had trouble with the powerflex bushings failing? Also have you had any trouble with ballpoints that you replaced on your other video? I ordered the same ones from Amazon and was hoping they were decent quality. Thanks!
Henry Hertzler They've been in my car for nearly 4 years now, no issues at all, including thousands of track miles. I've installed probably a dozen and nobody has issues either. Is he installing them wrong or not lubricating them?
***** I don't know what he is doing but he claimed that he had installed them on many cars including his MINI and his wifes BMW and they failed. I am beginning to think maybe his memory of his 30+ years as a mechanic has began to fail him..Previously when I had replaced the head-gasket on my MINI and he was asking the details on torquing the head bolts he claimed that rotating the bolts 90 degrees was half a turn. After consulting one of his other mechanic he finally agreed with me that it was 1/4 turn LOL. I talked with the mechanic that works under him and is actually doing the job and he would agree with you and everything else I have heard about the urethane bushings. So I don't know why he dislikes them so bad unless he just always gets defective bushings, which would be strange.
Henry Hertzler urethane bushings in conventional control arms with small diameters are usually just a urethane doughnut and a metal sleeve inside. The movement is metal sleeve on steel bolt. way harsh, seizes up, tears up the urethane. This movement here is high density rubber on urethane. Maybe that's the difference....and so long as it stays lubricated and clean.
Brian Corrigan Do they need lubricated as maintenance or just at the time of original installation?
Henry Hertzler Should only need when originally installing, unless you frequently drive through knee deep puddles of hot soapy water.
hi, i bought a new pair of bushing but i dont have idea the orientation of them, exist a video with the explanation?? they are not powerflex. thanks
Look at the orientation of the old bushings and line them up the same way. Do you mean the bushings or the bushing carrier brackets? Carrier brackets should be installed so that the large flat surface is facing up.
yes, i know, i have to line them in the same position of the old one, but i lost the position mark, now i dont know where they go, what can i do??
Find some pictures online and do your best...
ok thanks my friend.
Is the original bushing oil filled? I have a recent leak and this is the only part I can see any oil on.
+Charles Schluessler No. Oil leak near bushings may be power steering fluid or maybe oil filter housing.
***** I only ask because there is no oil on the top side of this housing. Not running low on oil and the filter is on the opposite side of this bushing.
+Charles Schluessler Opposite side of engine oil filter? Probably power steering fluid is getting blown back there. It would take a pretty big oil leak to be even noticeable on fill levels. Other possibility is torn CV joint boot or leaking axle shaft seal.
Is there a difference between the left and the right side of the Control Carrier Housing (aka Control Arm Bushing Bracket) or are these parts identical on both sides? I'm interested in the housing/bracket itself obviously, not the rubber bushings.
+Ilya Toumilovich The only difference is on some cars there is a headlight leveling sensor on the left side.
+Mod MINI Cool, thank you. That's my next project: Control arm bushings, sway bar bushings along with new strut mounts ( I think you have a video on the last one as well ). Any difference between ADUS and POWERFLEX brands, other than marginal price difference?
+Ilya Toumilovich I don't know. I've only ever installed Powerflex. I guess you'd need to buy both and put them next to each other to know for sure.
Quick question for you: do you have a link to the tool you used to push in the bushing? I had an awful day with only one side due to non-Mini-friendly tools that I rented from O'Reillys.
+Epo Make the tool yourself using parts from the hardware store.
Gotcha. I thought you had a specific tool. My patience today was tested to its limits. I'll start looking for the right pieces tomorrow. Thanks for the rapid response sir.
Hi can you help, I've bought the bushs in the housing can I change them with out taking the sub frame down?
Cheers
MrJimmy0114 No. With the bushing carriers, subframe needs to come down.
Hey @Mod MINI, I'm currently changing the bushings and want to change them into Powerflex ones. I'm at the point where I have to press in the Powerflex bushing. I've tried it with two different selfmade-tools, but everytime the tool bent or the bushing just got stuck because it turned too much during the pressing-process.....now: what should I do? - buy a "professional" pressing-tool for 50€ (Germany), or build a better tool? How much force can I apply to the bushing? I am afraid to destroy it....
Keep trying, eventually it will center itself. You can let it get pretty crooked and sometimes recovers. I don't think it's possible to tear it with hand tools.
Thank you for your fast response! I will try again tomorrow or so...hope it will pop in position soon :b
Hi. can you tell me which bushings for the control arm of a 2006 minicooper do you recommend, the originals or those purple polyurethane power flex,
The powerflex. amzn.to/2Jw3gC0
Hello, question. Im planning to change my bushings soon and i see that they sell the brackets with already new bushings, would it be simpler to just change the whole bracket with new bushing already in place?? thank you.
Yes, if you don't have a press.
Hello, and what parts did you use to make the press tool? Thank you
pancracio pelayo A threaded rod and 3 1/2" nuts, a couple flat washers, and two flat plumbing flanges of suitable diameter (about 3 inches)
Thanks a lot! The plumbing flanges were the only parts i did not recognise, i suppose i can find those at any home depot or any other hardware store? Thank you again.
Why didn't you remove the housing so don't have to work off the car?
Housing?
i have a question , I'm trying to do my driver side control arm removing it was a pain in the , butt in stalling the new one is even worst , could that be cause I'm using the same bushings ?
You are reusing the bushings you uninstalled?
I never uninstalled it , I just took out the arm cause it was bent , but putting in the new one is becoming a problem
None of my local store sells this specific brand bushing. Do you know of any stores or online store that could ship to Montreal, Quebec, Canada? I'm looking but can't find one yet. Thanks!
+John Tran You might check with the vendor itself (Powerflex) or Amazon USA sells an equal product by another manufacturer. is there an aggregator service that can get it to you? I used to live in Japan and there was a third party service that would take items only available in US, put in a box and send to Japan. amzn.to/1ThbUOt or amzn.to/24nyNHK
BavAuto, Portsmouth, NH sells everything Mini and BMW. Use them a lot. Otto has great repair videos as well.
Hello ... I have a question. My mini cooper s 2005 have the suspension very bad and I had to change the shock absorbers for some mega racing coil overs, but the suspension is still bad so change the tires for normal ones and remove the runflat flames so better but still bad. ..what can i do to fix it .. by the way also change the rear control arms and the sway bars in front...thanks
probably control arm bushings are shot.
Thanks .. I hope if that is the problem because my car produces a lot of noise in the bumps..always I watch your videos and they help me a lot thanks friend
nan0tEch - hi..i will.i am waiting for the parts.