A handy old timer tip for removing brake lines. Obviously let them soak in penetrating oil then use the line wrench and a very light tap to slightly tighten the line before removing the line.
I upgraded my front 1/2 ton calipers to 3/4 ton years ago and I’m pretty happy with the braking. I don’t feel I have the mushy peddle some guys say they have. But I could understand doing this with the little shop kit.
Just wanted to point out that in the box the master clinder comes in theres 2 plastic plugs,and instructions that tell you how to bench bleed the master. Not one obs video shows that.. I'm a ase certified mechanic and i bench bled alot of masters over the years and found these particular masters bench bleed the best by using the plugs in the kit. The bleed so well that on the bench you can barely push in the piston 1/8" Also when bench bleeding the piston should not travel over an inch.
Hey my brake pedal almost goes to the floor when braking and barely enough stopping power but I recently got a remanufactured abs hydraulic assembly and I was wondering if I need to get a scan tool to bleed the abs system? Or can I just press the bleeder on the combination valve while I’m bleeding my brakes? I have a 94 with rwal
Definitely sounds like air in your system. I am not sure if a '94 needs a scan tool or not, but, the abs module does need to be bled. If your abs unit has a bleeder, use that. If it does not, it may require the use of a scanner to activate the circuits to bleed.
I see a lot of people doing this swap. I have even heard that certain master cylinders can be found and require no alterations to the lines other than possibly that adapter fitting. I cannot recall which model but anyways, there’s a few videos explains what and how, but nobody really gets into why?Is this proportioned differently for the rear disc brake conversion another modification that needs to go hand and hand with such as a big brake caliper kit or is there more braking power exerted through the upgraded master cylinder for increased stopping power or is to possibly gain more fluid capacity for “cooling” purposes as if they’re running autocross or something, or is this just to say “I got the old truck but it’s got new truck brakes”? Please excuse my ignorance and you may have explained why you were doing this in the video and maybe I just missed it. There must be some kind of reason that all of the cool kids are doing this mod to their trucks. Also, as far as the line bending goes, I think you can go to a real auto parts store and on a rack i believe they sell short sections of pre flared line with fittings for relatively cheap and I would assume that bending and forming a line from a straight piece of line would be much easier than trying to re form a line that is already bent. It can obviously be done either way and your way is more budget friendly. I have to re do my brake lines and whatnot so if it is a modification that is well worth doing then I would definitely consider doing this. Also, as much as I don’t enjoy it, working with gloves on definitely has its benefits. Good video. I’m envious that you are casually out in your garage in a T shirt just tinkering away while meanwhile it is currently 27° where I am. Even with small garage heater it is difficult to muster up the motivation to go outside and get shit done. Not to mention that the cold also just makes everything tougher to work on.
Good question. No, it’s not to be cool. Disc and drum brakes require different amount of pressure to stop. Old cars (like in the 50’s and earlier) only have a m/c with 1 reservoir. When you hit the brake pedal it basically applied the same amount of fluid pressure to all 4 wheels. Sounds reasonable, but in application, is not safe or practical. Maybe when parked it’s fine but driving 50 mph it is not, moving mass, front brakes do maybe 60-70% of the stopping ability. The fronts could lock up prematurely before the rears did much. So, m/c we’re made with dual reservoirs for not only safety but better fluid distribution. It could be tailored to the amount of pressure needed and adjusted separately. Then came disc brakes. Discs operate with different pressure needs. So, when swapping out rear drums to disc, that’s a significant change. To adjust or tailor the new pressure needs, there are 2 basic choices: add a proportioning valve to the rear brake line to adjust the amount of fluid pressure to prevent them from prematurely locking up or replace m/c that was designed to work with front and rear discs. Checking cost, a good proportioning valve is around $100 and install is something the average car guy can do but is more complicated (depending on the vehicle to install) or switch out the m/c which is usually easier and less expensive. Depends on the vehicle and the guy wrenching, but could be easier or harder to do. Putting in a valve is more possible fabrication installation rather than a simple m/c swap. I’m sorry for the length of the response but that’s why I did it…
Awesome video!!! Genuine question I know some NBS trucks went back to rear drum I think around 04? I have the 14 bolt 6 lug in my 89 with rear drums and wonder if the 04 and up MC may work well ?? Thanks for your knowledge and time!!!!
If you found an '04 factory style m/c for front disc rear drum, I'm sure it would....But, I don't know that you would see much gain for the swap. If I was staying with my OBS rear drums, I'd probably replace the stock unit with a good stock replacement. You could make some small improvements by replacing the factory rubber lines with braided steel ones and get a set of performance brake pads.
the brass brake line adapter is for a 3/16" flair line ,,, but the trucks "big" front line is a 1/4"flair,,thus it should leak like mine does!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! why is no one else having the same problem I'm having with that brass fitting????????
@@laurencevillegarage ordered from two different auto zones the same part # all you guys on youtube are getting and the end that the truck side of the line is 1/4 tapper female and the adapter is 3/16th tapper male ,,, it leaks! I've even talked to the manufacturer about making the 1/4 tapper.
I put a 95 Chevy cab on a 93 frame and I got one brake line Coming from master cylinder that I don't know where it goes both front wheels and back wheel are hooked up where does the other line goes
You didn't mention if the m/c assembly was from the '93 or '95. My guess with no other information and no picture to go by, that it has to do with abs components and/or proportioning valve. You need to find a manual for your truck and see what is different or missing. Sorry, but with no other information, that would be my best suggestion. Good luck.
I'm doing a 5.3 swap on a 94 S10. I want to swap the master cylinder out to a newer style. Is there anything I should be aware of for the swap? I know I'm going to have to replumb the brake lines because the connections are on the opposite side.
I don’t want to lead you astray. I’ve not done a brake upgrade on an S 10. I do not know if the master cylinder/brake booster are the same as the full-size pick up truck. If they are, then the NBS master cylinder should work the same. However, given the trucks size weight distribution And other factors, I would do more research to find out what other people are using for rear disc brake set ups. It may be, that a more common disc brake conversion that is applicable to Camaros, nova’s, etc. would be a better fit. Good luck with your project.
It’s a nice kit, that’s what I installed on my 95. They make a good product, I just wanted to try to accomplish the same basic and result and spend less money. I the reason I chose the little shop kit was because it didn’t involve removing the rear axles. However, my axle seals were bad and I had to pull the axles anyway.
When swapping from drum to disk, you need either an adjustable proportioning valve or a m/c designed for 4 wheel disc brakes to "proportion" the balance of fluid from front to rear. The reservoirs do not interchange...they are designed differently with the f/r chambers being different sizes.
I did a video about 2 years ago about the shaft. I believe it was #14 on the white truck. I listed the links in the description down below that video. Check my homepage, video list and it will be there. Thanks for asking.
You might try getting another adapter and try that, could be a quality issue with that part. I have not had any issues with using this on several projects.
OBS (old body style) is the general term used when describing the 1988-1998 full size chevy pick up trucks, NBS (new body style) refers to the 1999 and up body style change. I know it is odd because there are older body styles. But, when you hear or see the term, you will know which body style trucks are referred to. Thanks for asking.
@@laurencevillegarage another question is why the newer style master? And what did you do with the prop valve for the rear disk conversion? Im going to put rear from 2012 dually in my work trk with disk. Need better brakes the trk weighs 12K
I added the new m/c because the original m/c was for a front disc brake/rear drum configuration and would need a proportioning valve to adjust for the rear disc brakes. I needed a m/c anyway and upgraded to the "new" style that was made for f/r disc brakes. If you pop the lid on both m/c you will see the difference..the old style m/c has a smaller and larger fluid resevoir and the newer style has equal size resevoirs.
A handy old timer tip for removing brake lines. Obviously let them soak in penetrating oil then use the line wrench and a very light tap to slightly tighten the line before removing the line.
I upgraded my front 1/2 ton calipers to 3/4 ton years ago and I’m pretty happy with the braking. I don’t feel I have the mushy peddle some guys say they have. But I could understand doing this with the little shop kit.
1/2 ton to 3/4 ton front brakes?
Love these short and to the point videos
Wish I had neighbors like you 😥 great info.
This is great stuff 👏 thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you, glad you found it helpful.
👍👍 will update my 93 chevy and 93 gmc, with this style master cyl,,,👍👍
Thank you I can’t wait to do mine
Just wanted to point out that in the box the master clinder comes in theres 2 plastic plugs,and instructions that tell you how to bench bleed the master. Not one obs video shows that.. I'm a ase certified mechanic and i bench bled alot of masters over the years and found these particular masters bench bleed the best by using the plugs in the kit. The bleed so well that on the bench you can barely push in the piston 1/8"
Also when bench bleeding the piston should not travel over an inch.
Hey my brake pedal almost goes to the floor when braking and barely enough stopping power but I recently got a remanufactured abs hydraulic assembly and I was wondering if I need to get a scan tool to bleed the abs system? Or can I just press the bleeder on the combination valve while I’m bleeding my brakes? I have a 94 with rwal
Definitely sounds like air in your system. I am not sure if a '94 needs a scan tool or not, but, the abs module does need to be bled. If your abs unit has a bleeder, use that. If it does not, it may require the use of a scanner to activate the circuits to bleed.
I see a lot of people doing this swap. I have even heard that certain master cylinders can be found and require no alterations to the lines other than possibly that adapter fitting. I cannot recall which model but anyways, there’s a few videos explains what and how, but nobody really gets into why?Is this proportioned differently for the rear disc brake conversion another modification that needs to go hand and hand with such as a big brake caliper kit or is there more braking power exerted through the upgraded master cylinder for increased stopping power or is to possibly gain more fluid capacity for “cooling” purposes as if they’re running autocross or something, or is this just to say “I got the old truck but it’s got new truck brakes”?
Please excuse my ignorance and you may have explained why you were doing this in the video and maybe I just missed it. There must be some kind of reason that all of the cool kids are doing this mod to their trucks. Also, as far as the line bending goes, I think you can go to a real auto parts store and on a rack i believe they sell short sections of pre flared line with fittings for relatively cheap and I would assume that bending and forming a line from a straight piece of line would be much easier than trying to re form a line that is already bent. It can obviously be done either way and your way is more budget friendly. I have to re do my brake lines and whatnot so if it is a modification that is well worth doing then I would definitely consider doing this. Also, as much as I don’t enjoy it, working with gloves on definitely has its benefits. Good video. I’m envious that you are casually out in your garage in a T shirt just tinkering away while meanwhile it is currently 27° where I am. Even with small garage heater it is difficult to muster up the motivation to go outside and get shit done. Not to mention that the cold also just makes everything tougher to work on.
Good question. No, it’s not to be cool. Disc and drum brakes require different amount of pressure to stop. Old cars (like in the 50’s and earlier) only have a m/c with 1 reservoir. When you hit the brake pedal it basically applied the same amount of fluid pressure to all 4 wheels. Sounds reasonable, but in application, is not safe or practical. Maybe when parked it’s fine but driving 50 mph it is not, moving mass, front brakes do maybe 60-70% of the stopping ability. The fronts could lock up prematurely before the rears did much. So, m/c we’re made with dual reservoirs for not only safety but better fluid distribution. It could be tailored to the amount of pressure needed and adjusted separately. Then came disc brakes. Discs operate with different pressure needs. So, when swapping out rear drums to disc, that’s a significant change. To adjust or tailor the new pressure needs, there are 2 basic choices: add a proportioning valve to the rear brake line to adjust the amount of fluid pressure to prevent them from prematurely locking up or replace m/c that was designed to work with front and rear discs. Checking cost, a good proportioning valve is around $100 and install is something the average car guy can do but is more complicated (depending on the vehicle to install) or switch out the m/c which is usually easier and less expensive. Depends on the vehicle and the guy wrenching, but could be easier or harder to do. Putting in a valve is more possible fabrication installation rather than a simple m/c swap. I’m sorry for the length of the response but that’s why I did it…
Awesome video!!! Genuine question I know some NBS trucks went back to rear drum I think around 04? I have the 14 bolt 6 lug in my 89 with rear drums and wonder if the 04 and up MC may work well ?? Thanks for your knowledge and time!!!!
If you found an '04 factory style m/c for front disc rear drum, I'm sure it would....But, I don't know that you would see much gain for the swap. If I was staying with my OBS rear drums, I'd probably replace the stock unit with a good stock replacement. You could make some small improvements by replacing the factory rubber lines with braided steel ones and get a set of performance brake pads.
@@laurencevillegarage awesome thank you for the input! I will probably proceed with ordering a quality factory replacement
Did anyone ru into the problem of the flair on the current line is larger than the flair inside the BLF-26C adapter and won't seal?
No issues here.
the brass brake line adapter is for a 3/16" flair line ,,, but the trucks "big" front line is a 1/4"flair,,thus it should leak like mine does!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! why is no one else having the same problem I'm having with that brass fitting????????
Try switching out your adapter, maybe you got a bad casting.
@@laurencevillegarage ordered from two different auto zones the same part # all you guys on youtube are getting and the end that the truck side of the line is 1/4 tapper female and the adapter is 3/16th tapper male ,,, it leaks! I've even talked to the manufacturer about making the 1/4 tapper.
@@dano4572 Did you ever get this resolved? Mine is leaking too.
I put a 95 Chevy cab on a 93 frame and I got one brake line Coming from master cylinder that I don't know where it goes both front wheels and back wheel are hooked up where does the other line goes
You didn't mention if the m/c assembly was from the '93 or '95. My guess with no other information and no picture to go by, that it has to do with abs components and/or proportioning valve. You need to find a manual for your truck and see what is different or missing. Sorry, but with no other information, that would be my best suggestion. Good luck.
I'm doing a 5.3 swap on a 94 S10. I want to swap the master cylinder out to a newer style. Is there anything I should be aware of for the swap? I know I'm going to have to replumb the brake lines because the connections are on the opposite side.
I don’t want to lead you astray. I’ve not done a brake upgrade on an S 10. I do not know if the master cylinder/brake booster are the same as the full-size pick up truck. If they are, then the NBS master cylinder should work the same. However, given the trucks size weight distribution And other factors, I would do more research to find out what other people are using for rear disc brake set ups. It may be, that a more common disc brake conversion that is applicable to Camaros, nova’s, etc. would be a better fit. Good luck with your project.
I have a 91 chevy with rear drums , recently bought the little shop m. m/c you think it’ll be worth it
It’s a nice kit, that’s what I installed on my 95. They make a good product, I just wanted to try to accomplish the same basic and result and spend less money. I the reason I chose the little shop kit was because it didn’t involve removing the rear axles. However, my axle seals were bad and I had to pull the axles anyway.
will the old resovoir swap over or are you stuck with that gigantic new one?
When swapping from drum to disk, you need either an adjustable proportioning valve or a m/c designed for 4 wheel disc brakes to "proportion" the balance of fluid from front to rear. The reservoirs do not interchange...they are designed differently with the f/r chambers being different sizes.
With this swap is it required to run dot4 brake fluid or is the 3 enough?
You can use dot3 or dot4 in your driver, they are compatible. Most newer cars after around 2004 use dot4. Dot4 has a higher boiling point.
Thanks
Can you give the information on the steering shaft?
I did a video about 2 years ago about the shaft. I believe it was #14 on the white truck. I listed the links in the description down below that video. Check my homepage, video list and it will be there. Thanks for asking.
My brake line is loose and leaks at the adapter
You might try getting another adapter and try that, could be a quality issue with that part. I have not had any issues with using this on several projects.
Can I do this swap with drums on rear ?
You would not benefit from swapping just the m/c. The M/C is designed for a 4 wheel disk application.
What is obs and nbs?
OBS (old body style) is the general term used when describing the 1988-1998 full size chevy pick up trucks, NBS (new body style) refers to the 1999 and up body style change. I know it is odd because there are older body styles. But, when you hear or see the term, you will know which body style trucks are referred to. Thanks for asking.
@@laurencevillegarage thats strange i wouldn't consider that old style. My work trk is '74
@@laurencevillegarage another question is why the newer style master? And what did you do with the prop valve for the rear disk conversion? Im going to put rear from 2012 dually in my work trk with disk. Need better brakes the trk weighs 12K
I agree, I don't know how the designations came to be...
I added the new m/c because the original m/c was for a front disc brake/rear drum configuration and would need a proportioning valve to adjust for the rear disc brakes. I needed a m/c anyway and upgraded to the "new" style that was made for f/r disc brakes. If you pop the lid on both m/c you will see the difference..the old style m/c has a smaller and larger fluid resevoir and the newer style has equal size resevoirs.
do U have to Eliminate ABS.. for this to wrk Master Cylinder Upgrade
No, you do not.
@@laurencevillegarage thank u