Thanks for this video! There's so little available for these units so everything people can share is helpful! I appreciate you not editing your mistakes out, that really helps us other backyarders not make em too! I've got a leak somewhere in my DP drive, you make the process of changing those seals not so scary!
Loved the video. Pretty much it was just the tutorial i needed. Im replacing the bellows and the prop seals. I got a little newer outdrive, but looking at yours it looks like it is the same style, bolt holes etc. Anyways awesome video very good instructions.
This is definitely NOT the way to do it. Those seals probably won’t last long, if they even seal at all after handling them like that. Also you put the small seals in in the wrong order. Seal with steel outer ring goes first. Axel bearing and axels goes out. Then replace.
Ok, I see the problem at 11:09 seconds into this video. You’re not drinking Budweiser, you’re trying to tackle a job with a no name brand brew. It looks warm as well🤷🏽♂️, the bottle is not sweaty like a nice cold one. Carry on brother carry on🤦🏽♂️. I’m enjoying natural orange juice as I write this😂, you’re still one up on me so.......... Thanks for the video. 😝 God bless.
I'd like to hear an update re; this man's seal removal method. While I wish him the best of luck, I'll lay you a bet that the scratched seal surface caused the new seals to eventually leak. For those who are viewing this video, please DO NOT use this method. Pull the bearing carrier and do it correctly! In all honesty, this video should be removed!
All due respect to Bucks Garage. No offense intended. I realize that this video is about 3 years old, and I also realize that people are still going to view it. In viewing this video again, here is my recap: He should be removing the bearing carrier in order to access the bearing/seals... (not a carrier bearing). At 8:36 into the video....... this is NOT an SX drive. The SX is a single prop drive. This is one of the DP-S Duo Prop drives, and it is ALL Volvo Penta.... (not OMC). What Volvo Penta gained by purchasing the bankrupt OMC Corp, was the Gimbal suspension system..... of which was a giant shot-in-the-foot for them! IMO, the later AQ series is still the best stern drive system. NO Gimbal suspension system! At 10:03 into the video and on..... Please DO NOT do that! Do it correctly by removing the bearing carrier. See your OEM work shop manual........ NOT Seloc.... NOT Clymers. A gear set and bearings alone will cost well over $2,500 these days, and that does not include the cost of the set-up time. At 20:00ish into the video, it appears as though he is guessing as to the orientation of the seals. Please DO NOT guess at any of this! These seals are Directional! Repeat..... these seals are DIRECTIONAL! Again, if in doubt, always refer to your OEM work shop manual.... NOT Seloc.... NOT Clymers...... As said, a gear set and bearings alone will cost well over $2,500 these days, and that does not include the cost of the set-up time. At 25:20, again, he is guessing at the seal orientation. However, he does get it right on that one! At 27:08, he points to the Eccentric Piston. This is a seal that should be replaced routinely. NOTE: when removing the eccentric piston for the seal replacement, At 27:35, the bronze unit is the "sliding sleeve". At 27:52, that is the "shift shoe". At 28:02, you will see the spring pin bore. On this particular eccentric piston, the spring pin is parallel with the piston. You will push the spring pin further into it's bore allowing the detent pin to be removed. Gently drive the pin further in until the detent pin can be removed! The oil film will hold the spring pin in place. Spray carburetor cleaner into the bore to dilute the oil film. Now the spring pin will come out. Special NOTE #3: the eccentric piston seal IS DIRECTIONAL! Again, see your OEM work shop manual for instructions. Bottom line...... use extreme caution when watching these UA-cam videos. Learn to trust your source. And again, all due respect to Bucks Garage. In all honesty, this video should be removed! NOTE: for those of you who have the AQ series Duo Prop, the procedure is quite different.
Good Video, I am about to endeavor a Gimbal Bearing replacement,. May deside to tackle seals at the same time if they look suspect. Mine is a Volvo Penta DP SM outdrive, do to think they would be near identical?
Thanks for this video! There's so little available for these units so everything people can share is helpful! I appreciate you not editing your mistakes out, that really helps us other backyarders not make em too! I've got a leak somewhere in my DP drive, you make the process of changing those seals not so scary!
Thanks. Thats a life saver! Just have to be careful not to scratch the shaft.
Thanks that was a great video and description on how to and how not to fix some vital parts. Thanks for showing.
Super helpful!! Thanks from the UK!
Loved the video. Pretty much it was just the tutorial i needed. Im replacing the bellows and the prop seals. I got a little newer outdrive, but looking at yours it looks like it is the same style, bolt holes etc. Anyways awesome video very good instructions.
awesome video very good instructions.Thanks
Good Job. It's very well made it :)
Wow, I was able to pull mine out just using a pick. I wonder why this one was so tough.
This is definitely NOT the way to do it. Those seals probably won’t last long, if they even seal at all after handling them like that.
Also you put the small seals in in the wrong order. Seal with steel outer ring goes first.
Axel bearing and axels goes out. Then replace.
Ok, I see the problem at 11:09 seconds into this video. You’re not drinking Budweiser, you’re trying to tackle a job with a no name brand brew. It looks warm as well🤷🏽♂️, the bottle is not sweaty like a nice cold one. Carry on brother carry on🤦🏽♂️. I’m enjoying natural orange juice as I write this😂, you’re still one up on me so..........
Thanks for the video. 😝 God bless.
I'd like to hear an update re; this man's seal removal method.
While I wish him the best of luck, I'll lay you a bet that the scratched seal surface caused the new seals to eventually leak.
For those who are viewing this video, please DO NOT use this method. Pull the bearing carrier and do it correctly!
In all honesty, this video should be removed!
Can you tell me how to pull the bearing carrier?
All due respect to Bucks Garage. No offense intended.
I realize that this video is about 3 years old, and I also realize that people are still going to view it.
In viewing this video again, here is my recap:
He should be removing the bearing carrier in order to access the bearing/seals... (not a carrier bearing).
At 8:36 into the video....... this is NOT an SX drive. The SX is a single prop drive.
This is one of the DP-S Duo Prop drives, and it is ALL Volvo Penta.... (not OMC).
What Volvo Penta gained by purchasing the bankrupt OMC Corp, was the Gimbal suspension system..... of which was a giant shot-in-the-foot for them! IMO, the later AQ series is still the best stern drive system. NO Gimbal suspension system!
At 10:03 into the video and on..... Please DO NOT do that! Do it correctly by removing the bearing carrier.
See your OEM work shop manual........ NOT Seloc.... NOT Clymers.
A gear set and bearings alone will cost well over $2,500 these days, and that does not include the cost of the set-up time.
At 20:00ish into the video, it appears as though he is guessing as to the orientation of the seals. Please DO NOT guess at any of this!
These seals are Directional! Repeat..... these seals are DIRECTIONAL!
Again, if in doubt, always refer to your OEM work shop manual.... NOT Seloc.... NOT Clymers......
As said, a gear set and bearings alone will cost well over $2,500 these days, and that does not include the cost of the set-up time.
At 25:20, again, he is guessing at the seal orientation. However, he does get it right on that one!
At 27:08, he points to the Eccentric Piston. This is a seal that should be replaced routinely.
NOTE: when removing the eccentric piston for the seal replacement,
At 27:35, the bronze unit is the "sliding sleeve".
At 27:52, that is the "shift shoe".
At 28:02, you will see the spring pin bore. On this particular eccentric piston, the spring pin is parallel with the piston.
You will push the spring pin further into it's bore allowing the detent pin to be removed.
Gently drive the pin further in until the detent pin can be removed!
The oil film will hold the spring pin in place.
Spray carburetor cleaner into the bore to dilute the oil film.
Now the spring pin will come out.
Special NOTE #3: the eccentric piston seal IS DIRECTIONAL! Again, see your OEM work shop manual for instructions.
Bottom line...... use extreme caution when watching these UA-cam videos.
Learn to trust your source.
And again, all due respect to Bucks Garage.
In all honesty, this video should be removed!
NOTE: for those of you who have the AQ series Duo Prop, the procedure is quite different.
Good Video, I am about to endeavor a Gimbal Bearing replacement,. May deside to tackle seals at the same time if they look suspect. Mine is a Volvo Penta DP SM outdrive, do to think they would be near identical?
I would think they should be similar.
Yes they're very similar. I also have a dp-sm outdrive
can you show New seals model number/
What's the part number?
Is there an impeller in the out drive like a Mercruiser?
No it was a separate water pump
Do not do this!!
Where did you order the seals? I'm looking for some for a penta DP-S
Volvo Seal Kit 3856002 www.amazon.com/dp/B007I94W9Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
thank you.
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Painful to watch...