The 1st step for this job is to disconnect the Neg battery lead. Go to 6:52 to see why. The Pos lead on the back of the alt goes directly to the Pos post on the battery. That stud on the back of the Alt touches ground can be just a rude awakening (sparks), or start a fire, or possibly blow the diodes in the Alt. I would've taken the alt off the bracket and removed those items (alt, bracket with PS pump) in separately, rather than fiddle with their combined weight down there in your crowded work space. The effort you made to remove less items just made the whole effort more difficult. You are at home, not working off of standard labor hours. You saved zero time anyway in this case, you already had almost everything loose but made a conscious choice to make it MORE difficult by taking less items apart and out of your way. Why save time at the expence of "ease"? All that grunting and groaning doesn't happen going back together if you pull the Alt first. You could then mount the PS pump to the bracket on a bench or floor and simply, install the pulley and easily bolted the bracket/PS pump assy right back in. AND you can do the most difficult part, "put the pulley on the pump" with the pump mounted to the bracket on a bench, then back onto the engine instead of fighting those tight SOB's down there. If you change a PS pump, IMO, Always change the pressure line unless it's very new. You are deep in there. Why set yourself up to have to go back in there and change the pressure line a year later? Good that you changed the O-ring, but that's not where it will leak when the line itself dies. If your pulley went on as easy as it looked in the video, you should have changed it. It should fight you going back on every fraction of inch of the way. For anyone doing this job, heat the pulley hub. Use propane torch or good heat gun on high. Welders gloves or oven mitts. Those pulleys should be very difficult to reinstall (that's why doing it on a bench is much easier), or they may slip on the shaft in operation and screw up the new pump shaft with it. You get to do it all over. Plus a new pump again. Jimmy may be OK, maybe the video just made it look way too easy. It's should be easily the most difficult part of this job.
Appreciate the constructive criticism. Yes, I should’ve disconnected the negative battery cable. I didn’t realize how much I was going to be moving that darn thing around. Then I simply forgot. I did disconnect, however, when I was soldering the new plug end for the coolant temperature sensor. Thanks again, helps me learn!
@@1RoadGarage Yes! and everyone who reads. But that's the whole point of the video, right? When you watch a UA-cam video of about any auto maintenance work, you will see Pro's try to minimize what they take apart because time is a big thing to them. Home mech does himself a favor by maybe taking a few more things loose many times, just to avoid all the fighting, finagling and fiddling. Plus the Pro's never clean or paint anything they don't absolutely have to unless a restoration. I appreciate your tenacity Jimmy. You get after it and get it done. I consider you "novice plus" because I've seen you take on some difficult jobs most novices would never even consider. And regardless, in the end, you still drive off. You've got the right stuff in you for this. Regards
@@paulrooster2108 Off, yes tough, definitely, but going on, even with heat, takes 2 men, a boy to get it back on. Last one I did I was praying the last couple turns. And you're right, it's not exactly the easiest thing to clamp down. If they were all as easy as Jimmy's looked, I'd just do it on the engine also though. Never had one like how Jimmy's 'appeared'.
Just did the knock sensors on my 1UZ-FE. While I'm in there I did my starter and intake gaskets. If that statement sounds weird, look up where they're at and laugh.
It's always nice to see your effort, on an old Suburban of the same vintage as mine. I didn't notice why you removed the pump, what led to the diagnosis? You make an excellent point, it is very common to encounter obstacles and complications you never expected. I also find that the whole process is slow, sometimes painstaking. The guys who do this for a living don't have an easy life....
@1RoadGarage my 2005 Yukon 5.3L 4x4 has a pump that will get tired after long road trips, say 100+ miles, and will be stiff to turn at stop lights and also the brakes will be manual also. Has to do with the pump being weak at idle RPMs, as it will work fine above 800rpm. It is better when it's cold or shorter trips, and cause lots of stiffness after more hot.
the power steering pump in my 2006 Yukon with 150K miles along with its hydroboost is still buttery smooth. No noises and every 10- 15K miles I suck all the old fluid out and replace it with genuine AC Delco fluid.
Another sweet job Jimmy! I've never had to do that job (knock on wood) on either one of my Suburbans... But, now I know it's possible if/when the time comes. Thanks for sharing.
I did that same job on my Dodge Ram and I have one of those tools; but I removed the pump first and then removed the pulley and transferred it to the new pump Some 4 or 6 yrsa ago the pump was squeaing so loud that it was depressing to drive; heat is the greatest enemy to those pumps so I switched to Lucas fluid and I also installed a tiny cooler; and so far so good. There is nothing like having the correct tools, it makes life a lot easier.
Much easier to unbolt alternator bracket and take it all out in one go and you can take the pully off on your work table and put it back on easily. I didn't have to remove the fan or shroud doing it this way
Tight? Try replacing a starter on an 04 GMC Envoy XUV with the 5.3. Not even the dealership could help with an estimate or procedure but what I did do when I replaced it was replace every sensor, mount and U-joint that I had to remove because I do not want to go through that again. Think Tahoe that's 5.5 inches narrower with a fat cross member that doesn't unbolt. The only video I could find was some guy torching a chunk of cross member out and I'll lift the body off before that hackery.
I learned long ago to just buy the PS pump with pulley already installed and it's good to go my 98 Ford e250 is pretty easy to replace PS pump on it's been almost 7 8 months now since I did it at a advance auto parking lot lol
I did this on my 454 dually. Getting this pump in place to put a bolt in was a freaking workout… trying to hold it in place and balance the weight wasn’t easy
I am very happy when you see your content when it is dedicated to your Seat GMC .. I am your friend from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and I own a GMC car that is very similar to yours .. I wish you success ✋🏻🙂
Power steering is not the same as it was in the older cars. You used to be able to turn a corner using just one finger. Then they came out with what we have today, which was originally called 'power assisted'. Even though it hasn't changed since then, it is now called power steering. I wish they still used what I call true power steering.
Some parts companies are kind enough to sell replacement P/S pumps with a new pulley already in. I encountered this when I bought a MOPAR reman unit for a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The price was also amazing, not too much more than a Cardone rebuild from one of the major parts stores. The rebuilt pump lasted even longer than the original. Also, the MOPAR rebuild had a new reservoir. Looks like this truck doesn't give you the option to leave the pulley in place anyway. I like giving every belt driven accessory a spin by hand. Sometimes it can reveal something that is about to fail, but you can't hear or see it yet. I sometimes encounter failed belt tensioners that make no noise, but deflected so much, belts fell off. Other times they wore out so that the arm was out of alignment. It's nice to already have the belt out of the way, so there is less to disassemble and less to fear in the near future. Idler pulleys could do the same. Your Amazon link to PSF did not mention the exact type you used. I guess it isn't too important, those trucks used the basic PSF you can find anywhere. Fans, if you have to replace a power steering part, read your manual and use whatever it calls for. I have seen too many Hondas have massive problems because someone didn't use Honda type PSF. Other cars need ATF, I once encountered someone who used clear PSF in a VW that called for ATF. They replaced the P/S rack and in less than one week, it was leaking again. 12:40 At least you didn't have to do this to a FWD V6 car, or worse, a van. My mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima cost my family a fortune in repairs because they crammed everything too tightly under the hood.
Next time; after installation is complete. Jack the front off the ground and turn you wheel wheel stop to wheel stop and the system will pre-fill itself with fluid and you'll stand less chance of burning the new pump up on start up.
I may add if you are changing the pump due to leaks you can rebuild them for cheap but have to be very careful not to bend the reservior up. The pumps themselves are the same back to the 60s. They may have different reserviors on them, and in the late 70s, early 80s they switched to metric threads. I think later on they went to the o-ring style fitting on the high side. Early style was compression fitting on high pressure side.
Nice ! Useful for whenever the day comes of when i have to do this on my 03 tahoe, except on mine i have done the efan conversion so i have exceptional amounts of space to start off with lol
I like how gm designs something like that accessory bracket so it looks like all you have to do is pull out the bolts that hold only the power steering pump on but then you got tear everything else apart...now let see how long it takes for the flare on high pressure line to crack...for me it was immediately
You should let ALL the old fluid out and refill with new then get the air out. I mentioned in the end I should’ve had the truck on jack stands and turned the wheel from lock to lock before I started it.. that would’ve helped to remove air. 🤷♂️
Not sure if anyone knows... but lets say the threads are stripped inside the bracket. What tap would you use on a 97 Chevy truck 5.7? I think its 3/8 - 16 but nothing is wanting to fit in. Thanks
You saved a bunch of cash doing that yourself. Not to call you out but I'm replacing the pump and steering box on my mid 80's C10 fairly simple job even for an old guy like me.
On my B3000, you have to remove the power steering pulley before you can remove the pump bolts. There isn’t enough room to use pneumatic tools on the puller so you need the strength of Hercules to slowly crank that pulley off.
@@hb5914 normally the outside of the plug is black but inside is either white brown maybe green at times are a clip that can be pulled then with a pick you can push the pins out unless gm epoxy there clips then rip
Must be nice changed my powersteering pump in my 04 sierra 2500 with hydro boost over 4 hours of bleeding time total with the last 2 nights sitting topped off I don't understand how I have so much air no leaks everything is tight but still pukes fluid on my right turn lock. Absolutely ridiculous
BEST WAY IS TO REMOVE THE WHOLE ALT. BRACKET HOUSE, AND EVEN BETTER DISCONECT THE ALT. FROM THE BRACKET HOUSE, AND DISCONECT THE HIDRAULIC POWER HOSE FROM THE UPPER CONECTION, THEN REMOVE THE POWER STEERING UNIT WITH THE HOSE ATTACHED, JUST REMEMBER HOW WAS ROUTED, THERE'S NO NEED TO REMOVE ANY PLATE UNDER, THERE'S NO NEED TO GET UNDER THE TRUCK, JUST DISCONECT THE POWER HOSE FROM THE UPPER CONECTION !! AFTER REPLACING THE BRACKET FROM THE OLD UNIT AN READY TO PUT IT BACK, REMEMBER HOW THE POWER HOSE WAS ROUTED, IS VERY EASY !! I JUST DID MINE YESTERDAY, 005 TAHOE, FOR ME THE HARD PART WAS REMOVING THE PULLEY, AND , YES, I USED THE PULLEY OUT TOOLS SET, BUT, THE VERY FIRST THING IS TO DISCONECT THE BATTERY , BUT, CONGRATULACIONS , I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS !!!
You gotta love how GM makes the bracket so you could just lower the pump unit if the 4 bolts were removed, but fails to places access holes in the pulls. If they did, removal of the pulley could be done on the bench. Sold my GM stuff. Not going back.
That's why labor is so expensive. You have to disassemble half the vehicle to access the part that needs replacement. The job is not hard but it is time consuming.
Becuase it took me 4 pissed off days to replace. Still not fixing my steering problem. Debating on a red head gear box or the cheap rebuilt one sitting in the box on my coffee table. Awiting a borgeson steeing shaft and wollf lower steeing bearing. But. Yeah, 4 pissed of days!
Just curious...do you ever feel that the amount of money you spend on a 2003 & 2005 vehicle is worth it? I know you love your Suburbans and you take great care of them. But I wonder if you're like me with my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan... there's just something about it that I really love the thing and some of the cool features. It needs some work, which I'd love to take care of it like you do with yours. But I wonder if it's really worth it since there's a bunch of rust on the underside. Logically the smart thing to do is get something newer and in better condition...but I just can't seem to part with my minivan. I wonder if that's kinda how you feel about your Suburbans?
These GM style power steering pumps were junk from factory or after market. They leaked and leaked some more amongst everything else on these year GM’s. If you own these it’s kind of the norm.
@@1RoadGarage yeah start to finish. I was waiting the hole time for something bad to happen. I have to replace or fix a leak on my 1990 Chevrolet Blazer and was looking for insight
One way to diagnose the whining noise, is to remove the accessory belt/s (I don’t know how many your vehicle has). Then with your hand, spin each individual pulley and listen to which pulley creates the most noise and you will identify/know what is causing your whining noise.
The 1st step for this job is to disconnect the Neg battery lead. Go to 6:52 to see why. The Pos lead on the back of the alt goes directly to the Pos post on the battery. That stud on the back of the Alt touches ground can be just a rude awakening (sparks), or start a fire, or possibly blow the diodes in the Alt. I would've taken the alt off the bracket and removed those items (alt, bracket with PS pump) in separately, rather than fiddle with their combined weight down there in your crowded work space.
The effort you made to remove less items just made the whole effort more difficult. You are at home, not working off of standard labor hours. You saved zero time anyway in this case, you already had almost everything loose but made a conscious choice to make it MORE difficult by taking less items apart and out of your way. Why save time at the expence of "ease"? All that grunting and groaning doesn't happen going back together if you pull the Alt first. You could then mount the PS pump to the bracket on a bench or floor and simply, install the pulley and easily bolted the bracket/PS pump assy right back in. AND you can do the most difficult part, "put the pulley on the pump" with the pump mounted to the bracket on a bench, then back onto the engine instead of fighting those tight SOB's down there.
If you change a PS pump, IMO, Always change the pressure line unless it's very new. You are deep in there. Why set yourself up to have to go back in there and change the pressure line a year later? Good that you changed the O-ring, but that's not where it will leak when the line itself dies.
If your pulley went on as easy as it looked in the video, you should have changed it. It should fight you going back on every fraction of inch of the way. For anyone doing this job, heat the pulley hub. Use propane torch or good heat gun on high. Welders gloves or oven mitts. Those pulleys should be very difficult to reinstall (that's why doing it on a bench is much easier), or they may slip on the shaft in operation and screw up the new pump shaft with it. You get to do it all over. Plus a new pump again.
Jimmy may be OK, maybe the video just made it look way too easy. It's should be easily the most difficult part of this job.
Appreciate the constructive criticism. Yes, I should’ve disconnected the negative battery cable. I didn’t realize how much I was going to be moving that darn thing around. Then I simply forgot. I did disconnect, however, when I was soldering the new plug end for the coolant temperature sensor. Thanks again, helps me learn!
@@1RoadGarage Yes! and everyone who reads. But that's the whole point of the video, right? When you watch a UA-cam video of about any auto maintenance work, you will see Pro's try to minimize what they take apart because time is a big thing to them. Home mech does himself a favor by maybe taking a few more things loose many times, just to avoid all the fighting, finagling and fiddling. Plus the Pro's never clean or paint anything they don't absolutely have to unless a restoration.
I appreciate your tenacity Jimmy. You get after it and get it done. I consider you "novice plus" because I've seen you take on some difficult jobs most novices would never even consider. And regardless, in the end, you still drive off. You've got the right stuff in you for this. Regards
Yep I was like no way that pulley came off that easy 😮,
There's been a few I even had to fight on the bench .
@@paulrooster2108 Off, yes tough, definitely, but going on, even with heat, takes 2 men, a boy to get it back on. Last one I did I was praying the last couple turns. And you're right, it's not exactly the easiest thing to clamp down. If they were all as easy as Jimmy's looked, I'd just do it on the engine also though. Never had one like how Jimmy's 'appeared'.
Heat the pump shaft???? For real?? 17 years I worked for Ford; never changed a pulley, never heated anything. Perfect way to destroy the front seal.
ahh yes, the 'ol "take your whole car apart to get out one piece but then replace five others you broke in the process" routine
Yep 🤦♂️😂
Nothing new about that since they put the first smog crap on cars.
That's what happens when you have masochistic engineers designing the vehicle.
Just did the knock sensors on my 1UZ-FE. While I'm in there I did my starter and intake gaskets.
If that statement sounds weird, look up where they're at and laugh.
@@906MediaProductions Good call
It's always nice to see your effort, on an old Suburban of the same vintage as mine. I didn't notice why you removed the pump, what led to the diagnosis? You make an excellent point, it is very common to encounter obstacles and complications you never expected. I also find that the whole process is slow, sometimes painstaking. The guys who do this for a living don't have an easy life....
Been having issues where the truck was very hard to turn while not rolling. Didn’t happen all the time but enough to know there was an issue.
@1RoadGarage my 2005 Yukon 5.3L 4x4 has a pump that will get tired after long road trips, say 100+ miles, and will be stiff to turn at stop lights and also the brakes will be manual also. Has to do with the pump being weak at idle RPMs, as it will work fine above 800rpm. It is better when it's cold or shorter trips, and cause lots of stiffness after more hot.
You went with a Cardone? I went with a Cardone one 98. Lasted under a year. Went with AC Delco after and no problems for years
the power steering pump in my 2006 Yukon with 150K miles along with its hydroboost is still buttery smooth. No noises and every 10- 15K miles I suck all the old fluid out and replace it with genuine AC Delco fluid.
Another sweet job Jimmy! I've never had to do that job (knock on wood) on either one of my Suburbans... But, now I know it's possible if/when the time comes. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been working on my own rigs my whole life I used your video as a brush up and perfect 👌 absolutely perfect thank you for sharing content.
I really enjoy your videos. You do a good job of showing each step and every challange to making repairs and improvements.
Thanks! I try to make it as clear and simple to follow as possible.
And people womder why the labor cost is so high when they bring their autos to the mechanic.
Those guys do work very hard!
I did that same job on my Dodge Ram and I have one of those tools; but I removed the pump first and then removed the pulley and transferred it to the new pump Some 4 or 6 yrsa ago the pump was squeaing so loud that it was depressing to drive; heat is the greatest enemy to those pumps so I switched to Lucas fluid and I also installed a tiny cooler; and so far so good. There is nothing like having the correct tools, it makes life a lot easier.
Much easier to unbolt alternator bracket and take it all out in one go and you can take the pully off on your work table and put it back on easily. I didn't have to remove the fan or shroud doing it this way
Tight? Try replacing a starter on an 04 GMC Envoy XUV with the 5.3. Not even the dealership could help with an estimate or procedure but what I did do when I replaced it was replace every sensor, mount and U-joint that I had to remove because I do not want to go through that again. Think Tahoe that's 5.5 inches narrower with a fat cross member that doesn't unbolt. The only video I could find was some guy torching a chunk of cross member out and I'll lift the body off before that hackery.
Could be worse, try a Toyota V8. The starter is under the intake manifold.
Bring cash, lots of cash.
I learned long ago to just buy the PS pump with pulley already installed and it's good to go my 98 Ford e250 is pretty easy to replace PS pump on it's been almost 7 8 months now since I did it at a advance auto parking lot lol
I did this on my 454 dually. Getting this pump in place to put a bolt in was a freaking workout… trying to hold it in place and balance the weight wasn’t easy
Maaaan a rebuild kit for a Saginaw pump is like 10 bucks. I rebuilt one as a kid for a school project. Super easy to do.
I was just ready to replace mine on my 07 sierra classic with 5.3 thank you great video as always
From Canada
I am very happy when you see your content when it is dedicated to your Seat GMC .. I am your friend from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and I own a GMC car that is very similar to yours .. I wish you success ✋🏻🙂
Great job. What was wrong with old steering pump?
Suspected it was failing because of hard to turn wheel while not rolling.
Why did you replace it?
Power steering is not the same as it was in the older cars. You used to be able to turn a corner using just one finger. Then they came out with what we have today, which was originally called 'power assisted'. Even though it hasn't changed since then, it is now called power steering. I wish they still used what I call true power steering.
Some parts companies are kind enough to sell replacement P/S pumps with a new pulley already in. I encountered this when I bought a MOPAR reman unit for a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The price was also amazing, not too much more than a Cardone rebuild from one of the major parts stores. The rebuilt pump lasted even longer than the original. Also, the MOPAR rebuild had a new reservoir.
Looks like this truck doesn't give you the option to leave the pulley in place anyway.
I like giving every belt driven accessory a spin by hand. Sometimes it can reveal something that is about to fail, but you can't hear or see it yet. I sometimes encounter failed belt tensioners that make no noise, but deflected so much, belts fell off. Other times they wore out so that the arm was out of alignment. It's nice to already have the belt out of the way, so there is less to disassemble and less to fear in the near future. Idler pulleys could do the same.
Your Amazon link to PSF did not mention the exact type you used. I guess it isn't too important, those trucks used the basic PSF you can find anywhere. Fans, if you have to replace a power steering part, read your manual and use whatever it calls for. I have seen too many Hondas have massive problems because someone didn't use Honda type PSF. Other cars need ATF, I once encountered someone who used clear PSF in a VW that called for ATF. They replaced the P/S rack and in less than one week, it was leaking again.
12:40 At least you didn't have to do this to a FWD V6 car, or worse, a van. My mom's 1985 Nissan Maxima cost my family a fortune in repairs because they crammed everything too tightly under the hood.
Next time; after installation is complete. Jack the front off the ground and turn you wheel wheel stop to wheel stop and the system will pre-fill itself with fluid and you'll stand less chance of burning the new pump up on start up.
@@HK-Guy Thanks for the tip.
I love the grunting sound track.....it adds a lot of realism to auto repair.
Great job, Jimmy!
I may add if you are changing the pump due to leaks you can rebuild them for cheap but have to be very careful not to bend the reservior up. The pumps themselves are the same back to the 60s. They may have different reserviors on them, and in the late 70s, early 80s they switched to metric threads. I think later on they went to the o-ring style fitting on the high side. Early style was compression fitting on high pressure side.
Why don't you use a right angle impact wrench? Seems so tedious
I really like the way you present your projects. I also live in Columbia Tn. Who knows, we may be neighbors! Keep the videos posting.
What made you change out your power steering pump?
Nice ! Useful for whenever the day comes of when i have to do this on my 03 tahoe, except on mine i have done the efan conversion so i have exceptional amounts of space to start off with lol
Nice! Was that e fan conversion easy to do? Any issues with it overheating or anything?
Jimmy, you didn't have to remove the whole bracket to get the pump out I've done many of these and never removed the bracket
🤷♂️ only way I saw possible. 👍👍
When circumstances permit, you should acquire a "topside creeper".
My experience, the "new" remanufactured pumps never work right. Always best to get a factory OEM if possible. And junk the old pump.
X-Men this hurts to watch but if you don't know how to do it it hurts to watch.
I like how gm designs something like that accessory bracket so it looks like all you have to do is pull out the bolts that hold only the power steering pump on but then you got tear everything else apart...now let see how long it takes for the flare on high pressure line to crack...for me it was immediately
Is there a platform I can ask u a question on about my truck it is about another video you made n about my 97
It's very simple and things aren't difficult to remove
There was no mention of bleeding the fluid. Is that not needed? you just install the new pump, fill it, start the truck?
No you have to bleed it bit sometimes you get lucky
You should let ALL the old fluid out and refill with new then get the air out. I mentioned in the end I should’ve had the truck on jack stands and turned the wheel from lock to lock before I started it.. that would’ve helped to remove air. 🤷♂️
Wait till you have to replace the power steering pump in your older Suburban
Not sure if anyone knows... but lets say the threads are stripped inside the bracket. What tap would you use on a 97 Chevy truck 5.7? I think its 3/8 - 16 but nothing is wanting to fit in. Thanks
You saved a bunch of cash doing that yourself.
Not to call you out but I'm replacing the pump and steering box on my mid 80's C10 fairly simple job even for an old guy like me.
Which oil change interval is better?
Mineral - 6000kms/6 months
Semi synthetic - 9000kms/ 9 months
Fully synthetic - 12000kms/ 12 months
On my B3000, you have to remove the power steering pulley before you can remove the pump bolts. There isn’t enough room to use pneumatic tools on the puller so you need the strength of Hercules to slowly crank that pulley off.
For connectors that get damaged you could have just unpined the connectors and put the pins in the undamaged connectors so soldering is not needed
How does someone unpin the connector? Any special tools required?
@@hb5914 normally the outside of the plug is black but inside is either white brown maybe green at times are a clip that can be pulled then with a pick you can push the pins out unless gm epoxy there clips then rip
I kinda wish you showed how you took off and put on the serpentine belt and tension it with manual/automatic tensioner.
It's a lot easier if you remove the alternator first. Two bolts, a small nut and a plug. Then bracket comes out easy.
Was gonna comment the same thing that’s how I do it
That's also the way I do it. Less than a minute to remove and reduces the weight of the bracket considerably.
Must be nice changed my powersteering pump in my 04 sierra 2500 with hydro boost over 4 hours of bleeding time total with the last 2 nights sitting topped off I don't understand how I have so much air no leaks everything is tight but still pukes fluid on my right turn lock. Absolutely ridiculous
Been there 91 Chevy Silverado stepside
BEST WAY IS TO REMOVE THE WHOLE ALT. BRACKET HOUSE, AND EVEN BETTER DISCONECT THE ALT. FROM THE BRACKET HOUSE, AND DISCONECT THE HIDRAULIC POWER HOSE FROM THE UPPER CONECTION, THEN REMOVE THE POWER STEERING UNIT WITH THE HOSE ATTACHED, JUST REMEMBER HOW WAS ROUTED, THERE'S NO NEED TO REMOVE ANY PLATE UNDER, THERE'S NO NEED TO GET UNDER THE TRUCK, JUST DISCONECT THE POWER HOSE FROM THE UPPER CONECTION !! AFTER REPLACING THE BRACKET FROM THE OLD UNIT AN READY TO PUT IT BACK, REMEMBER HOW THE POWER HOSE WAS ROUTED, IS VERY EASY !! I JUST DID MINE YESTERDAY, 005 TAHOE, FOR ME THE HARD PART WAS REMOVING THE PULLEY, AND , YES, I USED THE PULLEY OUT TOOLS SET, BUT, THE VERY FIRST THING IS TO DISCONECT THE BATTERY , BUT, CONGRATULACIONS , I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS !!!
You gotta love how GM makes the bracket so you could just lower the pump unit if the 4 bolts were removed, but fails to places access holes in the pulls. If they did, removal of the pulley could be done on the bench. Sold my GM stuff. Not going back.
Well made video buddy! Thanks. Gonna have to subscribe now.
So there was no bolt or screw holding the pully on? It is just pressed on with no backup?...jc
Never used one of those tools before I always cut a hole in the pulley lol
Great work! I like that tool, does that work with front main seal removal, lol!!!
That's why labor is so expensive. You have to disassemble half the vehicle to access the part that needs replacement. The job is not hard but it is time consuming.
I can’t lie he got da mf runnin good asl 😂 I need a Macanic like him
First step is always disconnect the negative battery cable.
Some people would tap it on, but THAT WOULD BE THE WORST THING TO DO!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice job Jimmy.👍👍💪
Becuase it took me 4 pissed off days to replace. Still not fixing my steering problem. Debating on a red head gear box or the cheap rebuilt one sitting in the box on my coffee table. Awiting a borgeson steeing shaft and wollf lower steeing bearing. But. Yeah, 4 pissed of days!
Just curious...do you ever feel that the amount of money you spend on a 2003 & 2005 vehicle is worth it? I know you love your Suburbans and you take great care of them. But I wonder if you're like me with my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan... there's just something about it that I really love the thing and some of the cool features. It needs some work, which I'd love to take care of it like you do with yours. But I wonder if it's really worth it since there's a bunch of rust on the underside. Logically the smart thing to do is get something newer and in better condition...but I just can't seem to part with my minivan. I wonder if that's kinda how you feel about your Suburbans?
How do you know if the pulley is bad or not
Been there done that.
Wonder how long it is before you destroy your adjustable wrench
What was the reason for changing the power steering pump?
An electric impact would make these jobs easier.
I actually did use my 12v Makita off camera. 👍
A job well done
Thank you Craig
Just siphon the fluid out of the pump do that to change the fluid in your pump often enough and it'll last a lot longer
Will if you don't have power steering anymore. Just Go with out it you don't want to mess with the factory power steering pump lol
What a pain in the @$$ job, WOW!!
These GM style power steering pumps were junk from factory or after market. They leaked and leaked some more amongst everything else on these year GM’s. If you own these it’s kind of the norm.
The more bells and whistles your car has, the more difficult the repair... That goes for almost all current vehicles.
If we can't do what you do, why bother with the video at all because we watch the video to learn!!!!
Too bait clicky
Sorry you feel that way. Did you watch the video?
@@1RoadGarage yeah start to finish. I was waiting the hole time for something bad to happen. I have to replace or fix a leak on my 1990 Chevrolet Blazer and was looking for insight
@@MattTZew my advice is don't go with a Cardone reman unit. Went through 3 before I got a good one. Next time I'm going new if I need one.
1road!
On my 2011 hyundai sonata, every time I turn the AC on it makes a whining noise. Anyone know why?
One way to diagnose the whining noise, is to remove the accessory belt/s (I don’t know how many your vehicle has). Then with your hand, spin each individual pulley and listen to which pulley creates the most noise and you will identify/know what is causing your whining noise.
why not undo fan belt undo power steering then replace with new power. steering.
Lol 😆 or just make sure u have a oem part from the factory
I chucked my hydraulic power steering pump and gearbox in the trash. I went electric and I’m never going back.
Very disappointed that you ignore Safety when performing repair, especially when you were under the vehicle.
It’s much better if you remove the alternator 😂
So, why do you never mess with your factory pump? But it is okay to mess with an after market one? 😄
You should claim a throttle body while you have it exposed.
It's just a bracket - not a bracket tree.
There is no way on earth you did it without a leak
End Aspen dental - malpractice
🍪
It's electric.
Please stop saying these ones? Just say these!!!
5:03 Craftsman made in USA socket 🥲
you have to much stock crap on you rig get some good stuff not stock crap
bracket gravity.