A tremendous video that just helped me to fix an accord stereo. I tried to replace it last year with a complete android unit from China that the seller said would work with my single zone climate control car. Android worked and sounded beautifully but single zone climate controls would not work at all. I tried again to replace with a used Honda unit with no luck (couldn't afford the $400 asking prices online and no local wreckers had one). Dash has literally been out of this car since we purchased it for one of the kids almost one year ago. After recently finding your video I called around locally and couldn't find a shop that would perform a re-flow on the board. I owe you a huge thank you for showing this in such detail that I gained the confidence to try it for myself. I have limited electronics soldering experience but made the repairs myself for far less than the options available to me. I spent around $100 for a Baku 601-D re-flow station, no clean liquid flux and blunt tipped syringes all from Amazon. The options for replacing these integrated stereo climate control systems are very limited and many aftermarket option users report issues of one type or another with these. Much appreciated Roberto.
@@RobertoCrespo831 Thanks a lot for the quick reply. In addition to the static noise, pop, no sound, also front left speaker not producing sound, i will look into the door tomorrow and maybe check the wire impedance for short, if i find nothing will do hot air rework like you did. I already soldered through holes only components but that didn't fix it. How much you sold the car for ? It's good car but it's too old now.
@@RobertoCrespo831 Hi Roberto, i opened the front left door and found the OEM speaker has an open circuit. I inspected the speaker and found it is internally open failure (it's made in China oem). But i dont' think it has anything to do with the radio head unit problem, as the other 3 speakers work. Also found that the speaker connector was slightly humid and greasy, water must seap inside the door when it rains. But the right door speaker is fine, i measured 4 ohms at the radio head unit and 4 ohms for the front right for each back speakers. I also checked the wire harness from the radio to the front left speaker (radio disconnected) for shorts and found a weird current leak. First it looked like a very small leak 20 Mega ohms but sometimes it got it to 1 Mega ohm and once i saw it go to 0 ohms (!!) but it didn't stay and went back up. I tweaked the cables behind the radio but could not reproduce it and most of the time it was no leak (OL) which is no fault, or 20 Mega ohms (very small leak). I inserted small through hole lead wire inside the connector to be able to make that measurement but had to insert them in the smaller holes (not the ones that the male would plug into), i wonder if that had something to do with that short. I removed the harness wrapping tape to see if i could see any naked cable short but found nothing. At the end i disregarded this weird leak as a possible fluke with my measurement setup at the connector. So i need to buy one new speaker. Also i will try to waterproof the connection at the speaker. But i cannot say i found the cause of the radio problem. It could still be the radio board cold solder joints. After i replace the broken speaker if i still have the radio intermittent problem, i will reflow the board with hot air as you did.
Good video. I used this advice to fix mine using a 1500 W heat gun on the low setting. I took the CD drive off and left the circuit board in the housing. I didnt melt the solder, just blasted it with heat.
Cool. Wonder, could you just bake it to re-float the solder? I baked motherboards @375F for 8min to achieve the same. Would anyone suggest temp and time for this board cause solder is a lot thinner on mobo's.
Boris G i think ir you do it your way baking it 8min at 375 would do a better job. I do it at 420, I just will recommend to first remove the plastic jack
Thank you so much for this video!! I baked mine in the oven, 375 for 8 minutes and it worked! I did not remove the plastic jack, but made sure the board was elevated (4 - 1+ inch screws in the 4 mounting holes, so no part of the board touched the oven. Thanks again!
Sería mejor si lo limpias y puedes instalarlo ya que este frío, suerte si no queda a la primera sigue soldando componentes al azar ya que uno ha de tener una soldadura suelta muy pequeña
well i just baked my mother board same car year model as roberto for 10 min at 380 degrees lets see tomorrow if it works lol ! i will report back tomoorow !
Most stereos I fixed in the past with display problems got fix because a solder connection. Is your stereo different to my stereo? Is your display digital like a calculator or LCD?
@@RobertoCrespo831 it is the same. In fact this was the only video that had the same head unit as I. Could I just put flux on everything and bake it? Do you know much about the baking process? I have a solder gun but not a hot air station.
Now I'm thinking the problem maybe the light bulb behind the display, if you remove the stereo try to hit it to see if the light comes back just to see if it's only a bad solder connection
Can I fix backlight problem same way? Everything works in my case but the display is dark and hard to see in the dark. I also had battery drainage but I disconnect the memory cable to avoid the drainage
@@hazimeme find my comment in this video. I have posted pictures.. ua-cam.com/video/A_2Tpx8Z824/v-deo.html This is for no sound problem but the repair method is the same and the cause of the problem is the same.
Have you tried your local TV repair shop? eBay have a repair service $130 + 35 shipping. I don't have a business but if you want to ship it to me I can try I live in California
It's going to be the same problem as the sound fault with these head units: cracked solder joints of surface mounted parts, but with those responsible for driving the LCD backlighting.
CLISERIO RUIZ-SANTIAGO son soldaduras sueltas en la tarjeta principal y soldé con cautin lo más que pude y el problema siguió así que con una estación de aire caliente resolde toda el area y funcionó. Solo agregue flux a todo lo que soldaría. Pueden ser resistencias de superficie o los chips. Suerte, si te puedo ayudar más solo dime
A tremendous video that just helped me to fix an accord stereo. I tried to replace it last year with a complete android unit from China that the seller said would work with my single zone climate control car. Android worked and sounded beautifully but single zone climate controls would not work at all. I tried again to replace with a used Honda unit with no luck (couldn't afford the $400 asking prices online and no local wreckers had one). Dash has literally been out of this car since we purchased it for one of the kids almost one year ago. After recently finding your video I called around locally and couldn't find a shop that would perform a re-flow on the board. I owe you a huge thank you for showing this in such detail that I gained the confidence to try it for myself. I have limited electronics soldering experience but made the repairs myself for far less than the options available to me. I spent around $100 for a Baku 601-D re-flow station, no clean liquid flux and blunt tipped syringes all from Amazon. The options for replacing these integrated stereo climate control systems are very limited and many aftermarket option users report issues of one type or another with these. Much appreciated Roberto.
Your comment make my day. I'm glad my video helped
@@RobertoCrespo831 Hi Roberto could you give an update how long your Accord stereo repair worked after the fix ?
@@ericastier1646 I no longer have the car but it was working with no problem
@@RobertoCrespo831 Thanks a lot for the quick reply. In addition to the static noise, pop, no sound, also front left speaker not producing sound, i will look into the door tomorrow and maybe check the wire impedance for short, if i find nothing will do hot air rework like you did. I already soldered through holes only components but that didn't fix it.
How much you sold the car for ? It's good car but it's too old now.
@@RobertoCrespo831 Hi Roberto, i opened the front left door and found the OEM speaker has an open circuit. I inspected the speaker and found it is internally open failure (it's made in China oem). But i dont' think it has anything to do with the radio head unit problem, as the other 3 speakers work. Also found that the speaker connector was slightly humid and greasy, water must seap inside the door when it rains. But the right door speaker is fine, i measured 4 ohms at the radio head unit and 4 ohms for the front right for each back speakers. I also checked the wire harness from the radio to the front left speaker (radio disconnected) for shorts and found a weird current leak. First it looked like a very small leak 20 Mega ohms but sometimes it got it to 1 Mega ohm and once i saw it go to 0 ohms (!!) but it didn't stay and went back up. I tweaked the cables behind the radio but could not reproduce it and most of the time it was no leak (OL) which is no fault, or 20 Mega ohms (very small leak). I inserted small through hole lead wire inside the connector to be able to make that measurement but had to insert them in the smaller holes (not the ones that the male would plug into), i wonder if that had something to do with that short. I removed the harness wrapping tape to see if i could see any naked cable short but found nothing. At the end i disregarded this weird leak as a possible fluke with my measurement setup at the connector.
So i need to buy one new speaker. Also i will try to waterproof the connection at the speaker. But i cannot say i found the cause of the radio problem. It could still be the radio board cold solder joints. After i replace the broken speaker if i still have the radio intermittent problem, i will reflow the board with hot air as you did.
Had the same syptoms like in video. Baked unit in the oven. 2 months now and still working perfect. Thanks.
Glad to know this video helped you
How did you do that???
@@luismiguelramirez5995 may be he used a toaster oven, solder melts at 190°F
Baked in the over. 😂 😂 😂 😂
I like it. 😊
How many minutes did you baked it and at what temp?
Good video. I used this advice to fix mine using a 1500 W heat gun on the low setting. I took the CD drive off and left the circuit board in the housing. I didnt melt the solder, just blasted it with heat.
Did it work???
Thanks alot it worked 👍👍👍
It worked for me as well! Thanks for posting this we shall see how long the radio holds out 😅
Cool. Wonder, could you just bake it to re-float the solder? I baked motherboards @375F for 8min to achieve the same. Would anyone suggest temp and time for this board cause solder is a lot thinner on mobo's.
Boris G i think ir you do it your way baking it 8min at 375 would do a better job. I do it at 420, I just will recommend to first remove the plastic jack
Boris G let me know if baking the part solve the problem
Did baking it fix the issue?
I work for Toshiba, and have baked the boards in the past, it works.
Thank you so much for this video!! I baked mine in the oven, 375 for 8 minutes and it worked! I did not remove the plastic jack, but made sure the board was elevated (4 - 1+ inch screws in the 4 mounting holes, so no part of the board touched the oven. Thanks again!
Hola use Gel flux no clean , debo limpiar la placa? o puedo instalar el radio de una vez asi ? cuanto tiempo debo esperar ?
Sería mejor si lo limpias y puedes instalarlo ya que este frío, suerte si no queda a la primera sigue soldando componentes al azar ya que uno ha de tener una soldadura suelta muy pequeña
My radio switches from am to fm constantly
If I use Heat gun at high setting, how long I have to flow heat on top?
well i just baked my mother board same car year model as roberto for 10 min at 380 degrees lets see tomorrow if it works lol ! i will report back tomoorow !
Wow so Im back installed everything and Radio TURNED ONN!! Never thought this would work now i got some music JAJA 🥳
@@alexg8460Just make sure you trash the oven and never use it for baking food. Flux and lead in solder are toxic.
Can you please post a video on how to repair a malfunctioning 6 disc deck? Reading disc issue, and ejects cds when it feels like it....
Hey Roberto does this fix the backlight too?
Most stereos I fixed in the past with display problems got fix because a solder connection. Is your stereo different to my stereo? Is your display digital like a calculator or LCD?
@@RobertoCrespo831 it is the same. In fact this was the only video that had the same head unit as I. Could I just put flux on everything and bake it? Do you know much about the baking process? I have a solder gun but not a hot air station.
Now I'm thinking the problem maybe the light bulb behind the display, if you remove the stereo try to hit it to see if the light comes back just to see if it's only a bad solder connection
does the solder joints break on the pcb causing the no sound issue?
Yes. I didn't find the specific part with loose connection, just by solder as much as you can
It worked great! great informative video! Thanks!
@@jbyrd5070 I'm very glad you fixed your stereo
the cd cartridge was kinda destoryed in the process. does anyone know if the cd cartridge is required for functionality?
Can I fix backlight problem same way? Everything works in my case but the display is dark and hard to see in the dark. I also had battery drainage but I disconnect the memory cable to avoid the drainage
limplin7 I think you need to replace a lamp behind your display
Hey did you fix the problem?
Cause I findout that holding the buttom that says cd/auxsat for 30 seconds the screen will come on or off
You need to resolder two resistors to fix backlight problem. Cold joints are main problem on these radio's after couple of years.
@@denyB18which one?
@@hazimeme find my comment in this video. I have posted pictures..
ua-cam.com/video/A_2Tpx8Z824/v-deo.html
This is for no sound problem but the repair method is the same and the cause of the problem is the same.
what does all that tapping do?
Gregory Landia trying to find where is the loose solder connection. I was tapping the board to make it fail
He's looking for a loose connection.
Seems like it would cause a loose connection.
Be great if you would explain what you are doing to fix the issue. Looks like you are randomly going around heating every connection.
That's exactly what I did I heat as much as I can since I couldn't find where the lose connection was
Are you located in California? Do you repair radios of shipped to your shop? I am in San Diego California
How much for my radio to be repair
Where are you located?
I’m in the Littleton , Ma
What if it doesn't turn on the stereo and the lights
Sounds like a fuse open or cold solder connections where this & the display board meet
What temperature was used for reflow
420f
Thanks
Roberto Crespo seems to be working,keeping eye on radios,thanks again
Nice. Glad you make it work
NO LUCK, Messed up my board.
That's good feedback thanks even if it didn't work.
Maybe someone know, what to fix in this type of stereo, when lighting is not working?
Have you tried your local TV repair shop? eBay have a repair service $130 + 35 shipping.
I don't have a business but if you want to ship it to me I can try I live in California
It's going to be the same problem as the sound fault with these head units: cracked solder joints of surface mounted parts, but with those responsible for driving the LCD backlighting.
😮😮😮mandalo a la tìsnada mejor 😢
Hola Hoberto, puedes espesificar cual parte arreglarle.
CLISERIO RUIZ-SANTIAGO son soldaduras sueltas en la tarjeta principal y soldé con cautin lo más que pude y el problema siguió así que con una estación de aire caliente resolde toda el area y funcionó. Solo agregue flux a todo lo que soldaría. Pueden ser resistencias de superficie o los chips. Suerte, si te puedo ayudar más solo dime
Gracias, lo are.
Dont explain anything, dont speak mickey mouse !.
I like you wasted time watching and waiting .
Just buy a new stereo.