I've ridden on and commanded many tanks in my military career but this model is so close to the exact look of a real tank it's hard to tell it isn't full size!...excellent work and touch. I'm impressed!!
I'm simply speechless. It is not a model but a rusty candy and a piece of work. Nice detail to had placed a Sherman to make a comparison. Definitively, M60 Patton is beauty...... not like Leopard 2 but a beauty. Congrats. Outstanding work.
Beautiful work there, was skeptical at first with the rust undercoat, but you proved it to be a great idea! Looks like how I remember the old Dinosaurs in real life, and the tracks, man, spot on, well done!
Really great model and especially the paint and weathering job is amazing, in same way i want paint my Flakpanzer Gepard from TAKOM soon, ahhh before i forget, you forgot to paint the rear lights hehehe, cheers from Germany
Nice job on the Ds tracks I hate the seem lines on the bolt ends same as on my Abrams tracks waiting for the metal tracks for the Abrams just because of that!
Very NICE work, BUT... The M-60 did not wear that camo in US service. It could be found either in overall olive green or the USAREUR camo of the early 70s (pre-MERDC) consisting of a light tan and green as primary colors and brown and black as secondary colors. The pattern can be seen in pics available on the internet if you search for something like "USAREUR vehicle camouflage 1970s. Don't confuse it with the later MERDC, which was applied around 1977. By that time, almost all the M60s had been taken out of service, replaced by M60A1s with various improvements. The last one I saw in service was on at Graf in late 1975. You may find them as gate guards and monuments painted in later schemes these days, however, including the current NATO green, brown, and black. The white stars and lettering on the hull would only have been appropriate for the olive green, which would have been for Stateside or in the 60s overseas. Black stars were used on the USAREUR and MERDC patterns.
Thanks for the reply. My version was not modeled after one that was in service. Most of the kits I build are not built as they were in service, but as they look when displayed current day. This one was loosely based on a VFW display that is just down the road from where we live. I used the finished build along with the real-life version to demo photography techniques in my book (www.scalephotography.com).
I gathered as much. I admire very much your painting and detailing process. It is imaginative and and produces an impressive and realistic result for your prototype gate guard. VERY WELL DONE.
@@mnscalemodeler3217 Very good point. M60s in service in the states and in Europe would never have rust and we kept cans of olive drab paint in motor stables for that very purpose. Very beautiful job on painting and weathering. I plan to borrow your techniques for my build of my Sherman. Great production values as well - the photography is excellent.
Hello, 'MN Scale Modeler', I enjoyed seeing how your tank was weathered, but how is that 'Hairspray' technique done??? I understand how that rust was applied in different shades and its purpose, and the NATO colors added after that was done, BUT what did you do After the rust was applied, hairspray and NATO colors were added, I see that you used acrylic paints, but what happened after the paint job?? Again, Thanks for posting and look forward to your response.
Very nice work. I like the approach you took for the chipping technique. We're there any fit problems with the construction of the kit? Nice looking collection your building. Well done sir!
The kit went together pretty well. The hardest part was assembling the stowage cage on the back of the turret...took a little patience and some blue tack but it went together! As with all Dragon kits, LOTS of parts and lots of time to assemble, but the reward is a lot of detail. Thanks!
The M-60 is named the, "Eisenhower." The M-47 & M-48 were the, "Patton." (BTW: Wikipedia got it wrong, also.) The M-60A3 was my tank for three years during the 1980s; I know her very well.
Not a dumb question at all! I used water and a small paint brush that had the bristles cut back so only about 1/8" was left. This left it very rough and made it easier to chip the paint.
Really nice end result and video! I I was just wondering if you can explain the process of chipping in more detail? And what is the hairspray for? To keep colour layers from sticking?
I'm using what is called the hairspray chipping method. You start by painting the model with the color you want your chips to be, in this case rust color. Then the color is sealed in with a clear coat, followed by spraying it with a low-hold hairspray (strong hold hairspray doesn't work very well for this). Finally you paint a thin layer of your top paint coat, in this case the camp pattern. Now, using small brushes and some water, you wet the paint in the area you want chips to form, then repeatedly brush over the area until the top paint "chips" off, revealing the rust layer below. The action between the water, top layer of paint, and the hairspray make the paint weak, allowing you to controllably chip it away. Do a search for "hairspray chipping technique" and you'll find a ton of videos. Hope that helps!
When was this early version of the M60 in service? And which countries and battles did it serve in? I've seen some people call it an 'M60A0' on Google but apparently it's just 'M60'.
For the chipping paint layer, I used the Lifecolor paints shown in the video. I used Tresemme light hold hairspray, followed by the top coat paint. I did the physical chipping with water and a firm, small brush. Hope that helps!
Actually I try to avoid clear coating as much as possible unless it is absolutely necessary. It tends to change colors and remove detail, especially gloss coats. For this build, the only clear coat I put on was over the rust paint color before putting on the hairspray as well as spot spraying over just the decals. For both I used AK Ultra Matte. Otherwise there were no other clear coats applied.
The M60 turret was slightly different than the M48. If you look closely, the M48 turret was more rounded toward the stern, while the M60 turret was flatter.
My reference included a display tank parked in a VFW parking lot. It was painted in this scheme. I'm pretty sure most M60s were not painted like this in NATO but it is a sharp pattern. I could be wrong...they might have on occasion.
came out great, By the time the Nato scheme came along the old version of the M60 was no longer in use. Many got these patterns as they were on display (like in front of bases, or at VFW locations) and the paint was on hand. You also have your periscopes and taillights painted over too, however this isn't really a mistake as if your going with the on display "gate Guard" angle this is not uncommon as when these vehicles are repainted rarely do the lenses get masked off and everything usually gets over sprayed
It's not a matter of "wanting" it to look old. It's a matter of modeling what you see. Most of my builds are based off of tanks sitting in VFW parking lots or outside displays. I find they are more challenging and incorporate more artistic approaches. My goals are not to recreate a perfect "specimen", but more along the lines of using the build as a canvas for a bit of creativity.
I've ridden on and commanded many tanks in my military career but this model is so close to the exact look of a real tank it's hard to tell it isn't full size!...excellent work and touch. I'm impressed!!
Thanks much! Appreciate it!
Greetings from Buffalo, MN
Hi Dan!
I'm simply speechless. It is not a model but a rusty candy and a piece of work. Nice detail to had placed a Sherman to make a comparison. Definitively, M60 Patton is beauty...... not like Leopard 2 but a beauty. Congrats. Outstanding work.
Thanks Charlie!
I served on this tank. You did an amazing job!
Thanks!
So did I. B Co, 1/68 Armor 1st AD Ft. Hood Texas
@@johncratty5057 Hey, so did I. C Company, 5/68th Armor, 8th Infantry Div., Mannheim Germany
Practically means if he was in plastic apocalypse he would of been the super tank driver since its an m60
Wow! I can only hope to complete a kit this detailed. Fantastic work.
Thanks Jerald!
Beautiful work there, was skeptical at first with the rust undercoat, but you proved it to be a great idea! Looks like how I remember the old Dinosaurs in real life, and the tracks, man, spot on, well done!
Thanks much!
Sgt Bones I was a tanker also on the old m60 I loved it
Great job. So much realism in your work. I'm blown away.
Great work - like the range of colours, nice chipping/weathering. It will be another fine addition to the museum!
Thanks!
Your job is spectacular!
Tracks are perfect. The whole model is great.
Thanks Dan!
Different effects from others very nice , will enjoy watching and trying your method cheers
Thanks Robert!
I'm away to start the Asuka easy eight it has same tracks but in separate peices like your Sherman videos! Can't wait Haha!
Great video. Clear and simple. Thanks :)
Thanks!
Really great model and especially the paint and weathering job is amazing, in same way i want paint my Flakpanzer Gepard from TAKOM soon, ahhh before i forget, you forgot to paint the rear lights hehehe, cheers from Germany
Thanks!
Nice job on the Ds tracks I hate the seem lines on the bolt ends same as on my Abrams tracks waiting for the metal tracks for the Abrams just because of that!
Thanks!
Nice job
Thanks!
Great job on this tank well done
Thanks!
Very NICE work, BUT... The M-60 did not wear that camo in US service. It could be found either in overall olive green or the USAREUR camo of the early 70s (pre-MERDC) consisting of a light tan and green as primary colors and brown and black as secondary colors. The pattern can be seen in pics available on the internet if you search for something like "USAREUR vehicle camouflage 1970s. Don't confuse it with the later MERDC, which was applied around 1977. By that time, almost all the M60s had been taken out of service, replaced by M60A1s with various improvements. The last one I saw in service was on at Graf in late 1975. You may find them as gate guards and monuments painted in later schemes these days, however, including the current NATO green, brown, and black. The white stars and lettering on the hull would only have been appropriate for the olive green, which would have been for Stateside or in the 60s overseas. Black stars were used on the USAREUR and MERDC patterns.
Thanks for the reply. My version was not modeled after one that was in service. Most of the kits I build are not built as they were in service, but as they look when displayed current day. This one was loosely based on a VFW display that is just down the road from where we live. I used the finished build along with the real-life version to demo photography techniques in my book (www.scalephotography.com).
I gathered as much. I admire very much your painting and detailing process. It is imaginative and and produces an impressive and realistic result for your prototype gate guard. VERY WELL DONE.
I'm glad someone noticed the cammo error beside me. I was on the A3 for awhile.
@@mnscalemodeler3217 Very good point. M60s in service in the states and in Europe would never have rust and we kept cans of olive drab paint in motor stables for that very purpose. Very beautiful job on painting and weathering. I plan to borrow your techniques for my build of my Sherman. Great production values as well - the photography is excellent.
@@panzergator Thanks much!
Fantastic job bro !!
Thanks!
Good video. I wish you would talk and explain instead of music. It would be a lot more helpful
part of history and made it live again :)
Thanks!
Высший класс! Везеринг просто суперский, автор похоже художник
Спасибо
Hello, 'MN Scale Modeler', I enjoyed seeing how your tank was weathered, but how is that 'Hairspray' technique done???
I understand how that rust was applied in different shades and its purpose, and the NATO colors added after that was done, BUT what did you do After the rust was applied, hairspray and NATO colors were added, I see that you used acrylic paints, but what happened after the paint job??
Again, Thanks for posting and look forward to your response.
Гусли класно получились,прямо как на Вьетнам
Спасибо
Beautiful! Nicely done!
Very nice work. I like the approach you took for the chipping technique. We're there any fit problems with the construction of the kit? Nice looking collection your building. Well done sir!
The kit went together pretty well. The hardest part was assembling the stowage cage on the back of the turret...took a little patience and some blue tack but it went together! As with all Dragon kits, LOTS of parts and lots of time to assemble, but the reward is a lot of detail. Thanks!
Inspirational
I like how you rusted it
Très bon travail 😉😉😉
Merci!
Awesome,,,,heeeeell , i would even hope to be pleased at the rust layer.
Thanks!
The M-60 is named the, "Eisenhower." The M-47 & M-48 were the, "Patton." (BTW: Wikipedia got it wrong, also.) The M-60A3 was my tank for three years during the 1980s; I know her very well.
This might be a dumb question, but what do you actually use to chip the top layer of paint?
Not a dumb question at all! I used water and a small paint brush that had the bristles cut back so only about 1/8" was left. This left it very rough and made it easier to chip the paint.
Really nice end result and video! I I was just wondering if you can explain the process of chipping in more detail?
And what is the hairspray for? To keep colour layers from sticking?
I'm using what is called the hairspray chipping method. You start by painting the model with the color you want your chips to be, in this case rust color. Then the color is sealed in with a clear coat, followed by spraying it with a low-hold hairspray (strong hold hairspray doesn't work very well for this). Finally you paint a thin layer of your top paint coat, in this case the camp pattern. Now, using small brushes and some water, you wet the paint in the area you want chips to form, then repeatedly brush over the area until the top paint "chips" off, revealing the rust layer below. The action between the water, top layer of paint, and the hairspray make the paint weak, allowing you to controllably chip it away. Do a search for "hairspray chipping technique" and you'll find a ton of videos. Hope that helps!
That's an interesting method, I think I'll try it on my next model.
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation and the inspiring channel!
No problem! Have fun with it!
When was this early version of the M60 in service? And which countries and battles did it serve in?
I've seen some people call it an 'M60A0' on Google but apparently it's just 'M60'.
I have no idea. I actually know very little about real tanks. I'm a pilot. LOL
What did you use for chipping?
For the chipping paint layer, I used the Lifecolor paints shown in the video. I used Tresemme light hold hairspray, followed by the top coat paint. I did the physical chipping with water and a firm, small brush. Hope that helps!
Thanks!
did you use any flat or semi-gloss varnish coat?
Actually I try to avoid clear coating as much as possible unless it is absolutely necessary. It tends to change colors and remove detail, especially gloss coats. For this build, the only clear coat I put on was over the rust paint color before putting on the hairspray as well as spot spraying over just the decals. For both I used AK Ultra Matte. Otherwise there were no other clear coats applied.
@@mnscalemodeler3217 it looks pretty cool. You did the good job!
Thanks! @@maxwarrior3324
M-60 on papers!This is a M-48 added to a 105 gun .Great work!!
The M60 turret was slightly different than the M48. If you look closely, the M48 turret was more rounded toward the stern, while the M60 turret was flatter.
Just wondering, this completely stock? Did you thin the rear basket or assemble from the box?
Yep! Completely stock. The rear basket is just as it was coming out of the sprue.
You notice the M60 is almost the same as the M48. Look at the front end nose. The M60 is straight across and the M48 has the curve front. Just saying.
Was the camoflage scheme fictional or real? I like the paint job
My reference included a display tank parked in a VFW parking lot. It was painted in this scheme. I'm pretty sure most M60s were not painted like this in NATO but it is a sharp pattern. I could be wrong...they might have on occasion.
came out great, By the time the Nato scheme came along the old version of the M60 was no longer in use. Many got these patterns as they were on display (like in front of bases, or at VFW locations) and the paint was on hand. You also have your periscopes and taillights painted over too, however this isn't really a mistake as if your going with the on display "gate Guard" angle this is not uncommon as when these vehicles are repainted rarely do the lenses get masked off and everything usually gets over sprayed
Why do you want it to look old?
It's not a matter of "wanting" it to look old. It's a matter of modeling what you see. Most of my builds are based off of tanks sitting in VFW parking lots or outside displays. I find they are more challenging and incorporate more artistic approaches. My goals are not to recreate a perfect "specimen", but more along the lines of using the build as a canvas for a bit of creativity.
@@mnscalemodeler3217 Can you make one that looks brand new?
@@Nick-zz6xl I can but it's not something I enjoy.
I will give you a thumbs up if you redo the tank to look brand new. I like new stuff.
So sad bgm;;;;;
A bit sad. I do miss these though. Iconic.