Boxford 10.30 lathe review || RotarySMP
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- Inspecting a new to you lathe. A few tips on what to look for when buying a lathe.
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00:00 - Intro
00:09 - Looking for a lathe
00:25 - Anton's Boxford
02:14 - Some wear checks
05:14 - Run though the gears
07:10 - The by-catch
12:22 - Cleaning it - Наука та технологія
Another great vid Mark, and pleased to be part of that. Thanks to all the tips and suggestions in the comments here!
Hi Anton, thanks for a cool day of machine cleaning and filming in your awesome shed.
Did you find an adjustment procedure for the feed engage mechanism in the manual?
British Boxford lathes are great. Most were sold to Education so never had much wear.
My Dad had only of the old Southbend derived Boxfords when I was a kid. Anton's one is a really sweet machine.
Hi Mark what a nice lathe!
If it was my aquisition, because the headstock is splash lubricated,
I would lift off the headstock cover and inspect to be certain that the oil passages
to the bearings are clear and oil flowing nicely.
also drain and flush the old oil and replace with new.
Thanks Steve, good advice. I pass it to Anton.
Anton really got a great one!
One of the benefits of buying younger lathes, they don't have an additional 30-40yrs of use or storage damage.
This one seems to have a pretty easy life. Certainly never in series production of parts.
Made in Great Britain Label *exists*
"Sort of a warning label, eh?!"
Truer words were never spoken.
Glad you liked that Nick :)
He is off to a great start with the machines he has. A huge advantage is all of the space he has and the ability to move things. I'd be in a similar situation to you having to find creative ways to move machines of that size into a basement. I've started small with things that can be hoisted by a couple of guys or loaded on furniture dollies.
He made a really nice shed there. I am so envious of that flat concrete floor.
@@RotarySMP I have a flat floor I just dont have the head room for bigger equipment. The other challenge I have is the approach to the basement entrance. Its either soft grassy lawn or a narrow and very slopped concrete walkway. Not insurmountable but not easy either.
@@joedowling5452 I know what that is like :/
That's a pretty nice lathe. Good size for 99% of the work. I completely agree with you, spindle bore is a key feature, I only have a 24mm bore in my lathe so for anything bigger i have to cut chunks out of the bars but you inevitably have waste material. Probably in the future I'll find a bigger and, more important, sturdier lathe.
I reckon the best plan is a pathe about this size in your own shed, and mate with a bigger one, for the occasional larger parts :)
Looks like it was a lovely day out sailing on Hauraki Gulf
It was their speed boat, but it was a lovely day out. Nice feed of snapper we got.
Nice lathe, never knew Boxford maufactured industrial lathes.
Excellent idea on having controls on top of headstock , happy electrician, no knee deep in oil 👍.
Good check on spindle droop, some high end tooling to boot 👌.
Thanks for sharing
It is a well laid out machine.
Those little boxfords were well build and very accurate little lathes. I had an 11.30 industrial. The speed range was upto 2240rpm I think. I totally stripped it and repainted it. Looked brand new when done. I'm sure you've got a brilliant machine
It really is nice. Anton got a good deal there.
Grate lathe! Looks like he is going to set up a very nice shop to work in. Hope you had a good trip.
Thanks Luke. He really has some nice gear in there.
Beautiful machine. Thanks for taking us with you
Thanks for your feedback Johnny.
"one thing missing here,where is the dataplate??" i allmost fell out of the chair there🤣🤣
It was a painful moment for us both :)
@@RotarySMP heartace and sorrow 👍😎
@@hedning003 I am back in Europe now, and can polish the letters of the Schaublin data plate. :)
Damn You boys ganged up on the old lathe. Looks like a very good piece👍🏼
It really is a lovely machine.
(Sorry for the late response, YT had quarantined your comment as possible spam.)
Nice Lathe 👍👍😎👍👍 - the only thing better is if it could tell stories about the parts it has made over the decades.
Hi Joel. Yeah, it is a real gem that one.
That was a good buy for sure, it's in great shape!
I've just bought a lathe myself, should be arriving this week, it's a WW2 era Lodge & Shipley model A. Will most definitely need more work to clean up than this Boxford but that's the fun part!
Anton also looked hard at a 1950's LeBlond, but the small spindle bore, threaded spindle, and wear made it a poor option. Hope you L&S serves you well.
I love your passion towards lathes! It speaks my language! :D
Glad to hear that! Thanks for the feedback.
Looks like a good solid lathe. Really nice to get so much with it. 😀
It really is the best thing when a machine doesn't get split from its accessories.
The most important thing to look for when buying a used lathe is that it is actually a lathe and not a pencil sharpener or a carrot slicer.😊
That is important. :)
Just like a kid in a toy store 😍
You are right there. :)
very good video rotarySMP
Thanks for your regular feedback. I appreciate it.
That's one hell of a find. It's a real beauty. The promise of hours of chipping fun :)
He really got lucky. His Dad found it, knew the seller. The Seller was very generous with the accessories. Top deal.
5:47 it doesn't look like a Norton gearbox. Fine looking machine!
True. I miss-named that.
Nice lathe, very similar to my Harrison cousin that from the same era that I upgraded to last year. Mine had been on coolant as well which had crept into gear change and saddle boxes so had fun cleaning out the sludge and varnish. Nice haul of accessories
Thank Paul, I think the 600 group did a fair bit of swapping between Harrison, Colchester and Boxford designs at the end. Good point on the coolant. It does get everywhere. Anton will need to check.
@@RotarySMP Yep I think Harrison bought boxford in in the 50s, the manual looks like it was from the same print shop, I would change the made in England to made in Yorkshire 😁, but that's a personal thing, and definitely keep the honest patina
@@Paul-FrancisB Made in Yorkshire... I like that :)
That lathe would look great in my garage.
It would also look great in mine :)
Awesome find
You are right their Jason. He got lucky.
The lever for sliding feeds is mounted in that loose block with square spring washers behind it, it's a clutch, so pull that lever all the way up to engage. The spring washers are the holding force for the clutch so need adjusting using the block screws to allow full disengagement with the lever down and tight engagement with the over centre lever up.
Also, you'll want to make a new mounting plate for the compound slide. The original design has a large diameter recess cut in it for the graduation ring to sit in under the flat surface of the bottom part of the slide. When you tighten the slide down at any angle you set it at, the clamping force bends the bottom dove tail part of the slide into the recess on the base plate. I made a new plate, totally flat with three clamping points instead of the two on the original, marked the graduations directly on the surface of the new plate and scraped the underside of the slide to match the new flat surface. Now when it's fully clamped down there is no bending force and adjustment of the slide gibs is easy and consistent with no binding regardless of how tightly clamped down the assembly is.
Otherwise, I found the travel of the saddle along the bed quite prone to stick slip, probably due to the relatively narrow contact areas on the vee way. I solved this with a bit of machining under the saddle and turcite lining for both the vee and flat ways. Now it slides so smoothly and without any significant stick slip to point I can repetitively adjust the carriage position by microns just using the highly geared hand wheel.
It is now a really nice lathe, basically a top spec, reduced size Harrison m300 clone, just with a proper gear train that does true metric to imperial conversion using a 120/127 gear set, rather than the very close approximation you'll get on the Harrison and larger Colchester lathes (except the bantam that is).
Thanks for sahring your experience on these lathes. I will point Anton to your comment.
Good purchase
Sure is.
Very nice bit of kit. I'd put in a multi-fix tool post before the DRO.
Multifix are really nice, but it already has a QCTP with some holders, so the incremental benefit of switching to Multifix is not huge.
I wouldn't add DRO to tailstock, but topslide for sure. It's very handy being able to back off when single point threading and know the movement exactly without dealing with any backlash or something. Also, being able to get a good tool post and programming in different tools in your DRO so there is no touching off is another nice thing.
You should convince him to put a rotary encoder on the spindle, and a servo on the lead screw and do away with all of those gears haha. That is my plan once I get my own.
Sounds like you have CNC envy :) Better to start with the CNC machine than convert a manual one.
the one from that russian worker vid, then that's a collectors item right there 😂
?? I must have missed that one.
Beautiful lathe. I'm not sure a compound DRO would be worth the while on such a small turn diameter lathe.
Best wishes all.
I wouldn't bother either. It sure is nice.
The short throw on the feed engagement shoudln't worry you unless the lever pops out under heavy load or slips. It's just a friction clutch pack. It seems going into the cross feed just bypasses the clutch pack. Now the looseness of the lever block may be to compensate for improper /setup/shimming.
Time to RTFM on that adjustment :)
Great video, very timely as I am currently rebuilding a Boxford STS which is very similar to the 280T. Anton looks like he got some really nice accessories, like that original Boxford ball turning attachment. Regarding the cross feed engagement lever, those screws are used to adjust the safety clutch pressure on the feed mechanism, take a look at the manual which explains it. I don't think you should be able to engage the threading lever unless the feed plunger is set to the middle "neutral" detent for obvious reasons. There is a spring-loaded pin inside the apron which should prevent this, mine was actually damaged or cut short (intentionally?) by the previous owner and will be replaced. The name plate is missing, it should be attached to the four holes on the back of the lid (electrical cabinet) on the top of the machine. If you guys want any more info or just see some of the stuff I have done to mine you can check out the reels on my Instagram account which is linked in my about page. Cheers, Jeremy in Auckland, NZ.
There's also a really nice wiring diagram redrawn by another Kiwi floating around, it also details the factory setup and also the modification required to properly convert to VFD drive. I can email it if required.
Thanks Jeremy, I'll direct Anton to your post.
We thought that the ball turning attachment was shop made. Nice that it is a factory original part.
@@RotarySMP you could be right actually. I just thought at first glance the base looked original but perhaps not.
@@JeremyYoungDesign Either way, it is a handy accessory.
Bi-catch, good term for accessory’s.
Glad you like that. It is the common term used in german "Beifang" :)
Nice pickup. Need to make some boxes to put the bit and pieces in.
It is a really nice lathe.
@@RotarySMP looks like the sort of thing I would buy if I had the space. That and could find one at a reasonable price. Second had stuff is selling for new prices where I live.
Great machine. Clean it and run it. I regret passing up a tooled up boxford years ago . I'm trying to find a Harrison M250. I just found out they were also sold under the Clausing label. Smaller lathes like this are hard to find in the US.
I also considered a Harrison M250 about a year before I got the Schaublin. They look like really nice lathe.
Very nice. Think the pair of holes on the back are for a taper turning attachment but might be wrong. My Hardinge was a similar find with loads of multifix tooling. Some wear but will live with it.
Thanks Chris. That makes sense that there would have been a taper turning attachment at that time.
My weiler condor came with a dro on the top slide from factory. It’s nice with the summing feature on the ancient elesta digital readout. But if I didn’t have it I definitely would miss it for the work I do anyway
thanks for your experience on that. How do you deal with angled offsets?
That's about what i'm looking for but not many of those here in the US seems most of them were thrown in the bay with the tea. I did run across a Monarch a while back but it had lead a very hard life and I don't want to rebuild I just one one I can use without a year of rebuild costing as much as buying a new lathe...
He got lucky to find a 40 year machine which has never done a lot of work, but also not been neglected.
Nice lathe like that? Clean it up, oil it, run it. Particularly with that xmas morning haul of accessories 🤩
It really was an excellent purchase. Everything you need, lathe with little wear. What more could you want.
The power feed block on the front of the apron is not loose on my Boxford 270T. The power feed engages almost as soon as one starts to lift the lever but, letting go causes the lever to drop down and the feed disengages. To lock the feed on I move the handle all the way to horizontal. This is the same behavior as another 270T I used some years ago. All the best!
Thanks I’ll pass that to Anton
I've never used a Boxford (nice looking lathe, though!), but, remember one lathe (brand not remembered) in the Machine Tool Technology class I took in the early 90's that had a very similar drive engagement lever. What I really remember is that under the load of a cut, sometimes it wouldn't disengage! You couldn't apply enough force to make it STOP.... Ruined a nice thread practice piece (with an Acme, a Square, and a standard V thread sections) on the last few passes when it wouldn't disengage even with bruising my hand beating on it.
Maybe having those bolts loose was to "fix" something locking it up under load?
Or, you know, they were just loose....
Sounds like we need to RTFM on that mechanism :)
Love the lathe, your mate has a nice machine there. Regarding "Made in England" being more of a warning label, I have to say that I was deeply offended (once I stopped laughing). Are you saying that we make sh#t products? I think you are. Actually, if it had been a car you'd probably be right. - Heather
My dad had a british car fetish. Truimph 2500, Standard vanguard etc. I rest my case :)
(I'd love to own a DSG though)
Nice Lathe, I have the 10.20 STS version, to be honest your wasting your time fitting a dro to this machine, they are very accurate machine. Its worthwhile reading up the manual as many good bits of info in there.
DRO's have the advantage of easy switching between metric and imperial.
What a deal! Definitely add a DRO to the tailstock. Ciao, Marco.
Thanks for that. I have never had a DRO on a tailstock, but can see it being handly for fine toleranced holes.
@@RotarySMP Absolutely. Hacked my own DRO off of an unused cheap caliper a while back. It's a bit crude but still comes in handy... ua-cam.com/video/GNB6-5THEJg/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EZshop
@@EZ_shop I have one of those cut down caliper DRO's I have been menaing to install on the moni lathe tailstock... for about the last 15 years :/
@@RotarySMP 😂
Yeah nice lathe!
It sure is.
VERY COOL
It really is a nice machine.
You need to exercise great restraint with well-intentioned slight disassembly for cleaning... in the blink of an eye you'll have the whole machine in bits on the bench. I am still putting mine back together...
Good point! We only did the easiest bits, and put them straight back on.
Haven't watch the entire video, but I would look for good speed control on a lathe if I ever was going to buy one. Also an easy way to install a DRO.
There are few lathes from that generation with speed control, except the real top end (Schaublin, Monarch etc). It would be easy enough to put a VFD on this lathe, but it already has a nice wide speed range.
The last bit of the video covered the DRO.
@@RotarySMP I watched it, and that's certainly a nice lathe.
@@oguzhan001 It really is.
Muito bom ! Parabéns.
Thanks. It is a nice lathe.
Hi again , after pausing the 1ms flash of the cross feed diagram, there are springs under the 4 bolts holding the engagement level.
this suggests that some float was built in ,as you no doubt concluded.
the fact that it works as is does now suggests stop using immediately and investigate
something is assembled wrong or something has failed
Yeah, we also came to that conclusion. First tightening up the "loose" screws, but then guessing they are supposed to be like that, and loosening them back off.
I would ask my friend Nico to convert it into CNC, that would keep me busy for a while😂😂😂, sorry Nico!
Wrong continent. Would be entertaining though :)
Perhaps a complete teardown would reveal the data plate. I mean, what's a machine without a clean data plate?
Good suggestion. I'll get Anton right onto it.
I'm considering adding a DRO to my tail stock but not on the top slide for two reasons: I rarely use the top slide (it spends most of its time stored away as I have a rigid block to replace it) and when I do, the travel distance is set by the part I'm tapering. By that I mean the tool just runs out of the part at both ends of the taper at least for the simple parts I make!
Good point. I also see the top slide DRO as being of little value.
Very nice machine :) Personally, I'd clean the surface rust off and touch it up, just to prevent anything deteriorating. Otherwise, assuming it worked well enough, I'd run it as is.
Being a British machine, it's not leaking, it's just marking its property 😂
EDIT: It looks like Boxford is still on the go and still making things in the UK. That's a nice change.
That is good to hear. I think they were part of the 600 group around the time this one was built.
Fun fact, working in a 200:189 set of gears into the clockwork will get you _very_ close to a 4 TPI inch leadscrew.
Good point. This lathe has a very broad range of feeds and pitches.
It already has that, the 6mm lead is converted to 1/4" by dividing by 120 and multiplying by 127, effectively 4tpi already built in.
I feel like I'd enjoy doing CNC conversions more than actually using the machines afterwards
Hi Andrew
Shhhhhh! please do not say the quiet part out loud :)
Not all 50's lathe have a small spindle bore. Mine got 36mm spindle bore, good gearbox (but not as good as the boxford), real steel hardened ways (less than 0.03mm wear). The only downside is a threaded spindle (huge M64 thread). It was a pretty advanced lathe for this time.
For measuring wear on ways, use a good straight edge and feeler gauge, check what gauge goes under the straight edge.
Check also for bearing runout from inside the spindle bore, as there is always less wear than on the chuck taper.
What lathe is that? A 36mm bore on a threaded nose lathe is probably a pretty large machine right?
@@RotarySMP Hermes Mentor, 320x610mm and about 900kg. Quite an upgrade from my chinese BV20 but I do not regret it when I take a shower of hot 42CD4 steel swarf 😆
@@martinchabot_FR That is a nice spindle bore for an otherwise smallish lathe. My Boley only has a 19mm bore.
Definitely add a DRO. At least for the two main axes. On auxiliary support, only if the difference in price between 2 axes and 3 axes is small. And make it a "dumb" DRO - no math on angle and movement of auxiliary support, it is PITA for DIY lathe IMHO ;-). On tailstock the DRO is least useful. I would buy a cheap Chinese one.
Look at the videos for replacing that auxiliary support with a chunk of steel, like many UA-camrs do. Solid toolpost will improve stiffness and you do not need auxiliary toolpost that often. And you can swap them if needed.
I personally would just clean the lathe and start using it. You should also inspect whether internal oiling system works and look up oiling points, so that Anton can oil the lathe properly with way oil, so that his grandson can inherit a lathe in a perfect working condition.
The last thing I might do is make a holder for my small die grinder and grind in the chuck jaws. Again there are many, many videos of how to pre-tension the jaws for grinding and only grind them the tiniest amount to bring them into perfect alignment.
Oh ... one more thing. Anton might want to get a couple of precision ground stones and stone those small dings in hardened bedways smooth.
I replace the top slide with a solid block on a CNC, but never really got into that on a manual lathe. I know it works for STGW, but he is mostly working on such tiny parts that he uses form tools. I find I use the lathe top slide a lot, and would hate to miss it on a manual lathe.
There is no automatically oiling, but a lot of oil points. We used chainsaw bar oil as a starter, as that is very close to way oil.
I think he has a tool post grinder somewhere in that shed.
@@RotarySMP I think the ooh no don't use the compound is something of an american machining practice, as is the use of the push clock to set stepface/shoulders etc.
@@alan-sk7ky I guess it depends a lot on the size of work you make.
Tiny --> form tools --> remove compound
Mid size --> Compound
Long --> Taper attachment --> remove compound
I find I tend to make mid sized stuff on my machines.
Beautiful machine! I would do like you and your friend with clean and go....
Hi Jasper. I think he sees it the same way.
I have an 11.30 industrial and the drive engagement lever does go up into a horizontal position. It may have something to do with the amount of shims in the assembly.
Thanks. Anton adjusted it back, and it has been working well for him. Lovely lathe.
💪
Thanks.
Damn I want one too :D
Dont we all.
You need to set the auto feed handle distance. That’s why it has shims. Looks like you’re misinterpreting shims, need to space it out further so the cam can go all the way and it can cam over and lock.
Yeah, that is what we thought.
The holes in the rear of the bed are for the tapper unit - thought I never seen one IRL. Likewise, the holes in the cross slide are for a stop. You may have trouble mounting a scale there anyway as the gib screws will be in the way unless you can offset it. I have tried a few glass and mag scales and none are thin enought to fit in the gap so I've ordered Newell NMS300 DRO kit. Not the cheapest but at least I know it will fit on my STS. You can tell the age by the serial number thats at the tail stock end of the bed. The first 2 numbers are the year and 2nd are the month - 8610 = Oct 1986. Fun fact, most of these types of lathes (known as an X10) in particular the STS (training) where sold to schools and training facilities. I beleive they were all sold through Aotea Machine Tools in Auckland - no longer in business I think. Anyway nice lathe and accessories. BTW whats you thoughts on importing a Maho from europe? Not found any decent machines in NZ. Know it wont be cheap but just wont tell the wife!
Thanks for the info on the Boxford.
It looks like their is a glut of container capacity, so it might be a good time to imprt a container of machines. Maho's are pretty common in Germany, with Ebay-kleinanzeigen being the main platform for classified ads.
www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-maho/k0
The issue, as always, is getting a good one :)
" I have tried a few glass and mag scales and none are thin enough to fit in the gap so I've ordered Newell NMS300 DRO kit."
I have fitted a DRO to my 11.30 and it does fit into the gap. The scale is a 16 x 16mm section. It's protected with a 3 mm aluminium alloy angle which also protects the scale from damage by running the tailstock into it.
Hi guys, interesting video. I have an Industrial 1020. Occasionally I need to change the change gears for threading, what do you recommend as the best way to change the change gears?
Good question. I will ask Anton to respond.
Thanks mate. There are two or three bolts to undo. One on each cog sprocket and one on the tensioner.
0:03 since having wife and kids, a donation probably...
You are right about that.
"If you want to buy a lathe, what should you look for?"
I mean just spitballing here but my guess would be "a lathe".
There is that :)
Hello! If you don't mind me asking, how much did this machine set you back? Asking for a friend 😅 thanks!
I didn't ask, but NZ is a pretty isolated lathe and machine market, with mostly UK built machines. Not very relevant to the prices of machines anywhere else.
Could anybody help my son decided to clean our boxford sts and striped the crossslide took the hand wheel off and we seem to think it’s gone in the bin my freind has kindly offered to let me use his lathe but I’m in need of the dimmensions for the hand wheel could anyone help
I passed on your comment to Anton.
Saddle would wear not the harden bed
True it should wear faster, but in practice the bed does wear a bit.
Used a modern Colchester with a 3 axis dro and the hassle of having to set up the angle of the topside in software every time made me hate that dro.
Either don't have 3 axis or have it be a dumb one
Thanks for the feedback on that. I have never used a top slide DRO, so I couldnt really picture how it could be useful.
Are Bridgeports common on your side of the pond?
They seem to come up regularly. Often the UK built ones.
Nice lathe!!
It really is.
I have the STS 10-20 version of this in the more desirable RAL6011 😊.
The power feed lever on mine is at right angles to the carriage assembly when engaged
Looking at the unboxing of the accessory’s it appears to the be the bargain of the year, the traveling and fixed steadies are like rocking horse poop to find and when you do find them, they are mega money as are the change wheels interestingly the reducing bush for the headstock spindle is the same as the Colchester Bantam and Chipmaster lathes.
The lathe would have been originally available in both 3 phase and single phase but 3phase would be the choice of most buyers.
Now would your colleague be able to draw the fixed steady out in CAD as I’m in need of one 😊.(mans got to ask)
Two axis DRO fits easily although the cross slide needs a bit of thought.
Hi Mike. This really was a very well equipped machine. I'll let Anton know of your request for a drawing of the steady.
Is the feed engage lever mount block screwed tight, or are the bolts a bit loose on yours?
@@RotarySMP The block is tight on mine. I did have a issue when i stripped and cleaned the whole carriage assembly after purchase the power feed lever on reasassembly something wasnt quite lined up and the action was stiff but the travel was ok so it may want a strip and clean and refiting as per the book. Its great lathe its just a bit unforunate that Boxford no longer support these lathes and they dont have following of the myford so non OEM parts dont exist. If Anton can supply me CAD drawing for the fixed steady i will fill him full of beer and cookies 😀
@@mike5064 I am sure he will contact you directly, as you are now the Boxford 10.x0 club of two :)
@@RotarySMP See my other comment, these screws are meant to be loose and are used to adjust the clutch mechanism on the auto feeds, it's detailed in the manual. I've just fully rebuilt the apron on my STS.
Makes me happy to see a fellow make a good machine purchase 👍
Is it secret how much did the lathe cost or I just didn't hear it? I would like similar lathe to this, but don't have any idea how much it can cost. But the lathe look beautiful.
I didn't ask. NZ is a pretty small market for lathes, with most being of UK manufacture, so I doubt that it is very relevant what he paid for this machine.
They go for between two and four grand here in GB, almost all without change gears and steady rests.
@@monkeyflyer410 From my vantage point in Austria, machine tools seem really cheap in the UK. The machines advertised for 2-4K there, would probably bring 4-7K over here.
@@RotarySMP That's expensive! I think the prices I said are already too expensive, nothing like what I used to pay when they were all being thrown out like scrap metal. If you see something on eBay you like, there's a couple of really nice boxford X10 series at the moment, it wouldn't take a lot of work to get shipped over to Austria.
@@monkeyflyer410 Thanks. You are right there are a couple of really nice x10's in Ebay.co.uk at the moment, although the colour schemes will give you eye cancer :)
I have no space for a fourth lathe :) Need to sell the Mini-lathe and Boley first.
Top find metric lathe; how much was it?
I didn't ask. NZ has a pretty limited lathe market.
@@RotarySMP , it seems the same over here in Oz for the second-hand market. Mind you; I have no idea what it is like in Europe to make a proper evaluation.
@@tcratius1748 Seems most machines in NZ are British.
Over here there is more of a variety of German, Austrian, Swiss, Hungarian, Czech, French, Belgian and UK lathes which come up. The price of used lathes is strongly inversly proportional to size. Something like that Boxford goes for top dollar here, especially in that condition and with those accessories. Something 3m+ long and 3+ ton is really hard to move.
Eh, checking runout on a surface you just cut is pointless …
Sort of pointless with a 0.01mm measuring gauge, but with a µm gauge it is a good check for bearing problems. If you have a damaged spindle bearing it will show up as roundness issues in the cut surface.
@@RotarySMP Your measuring tool would see the same error as your cutting tool did before, resulting in a 0 error measurement.
@@MyTubeSVp
Did you see Dan Gelbarts "How to check a lathe" video before he took it off line. Shame he did that.
My friends Schaublin 125-CCN had a slogged out rear spindle bearing bore. The defect could be easily seen testing for concentricity with a gauge.
@@RotarySMP Sadly I didn’t see that video. Can’t really get my head around how this should work, but then again, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed …
Excellent video! -- QUESTION -- Can you help me understand this - if a lathe has a bedway wearing "belly" of 2 or 3 thousands of an inch wear, how does that translate into your precision cuts on a shaft? I was watching Keith Rucker restore his Monarch k lathe (looked excellent) and he left the beds alone even though he found a 2 or 3 thousands wear. Is that a big deal? Would it ruin your work?? I really can't figure out if this matters much (maybe it is my girl brain but I can't visualize if it ruins a straight cut on a long shaft)
It is rare that you need extreme precision over the whole length of a long shaft. You normally only need µm accuracy on short features at either end of a shaft. Normally bearing bosses. So even a worn lathe can produce good parts, as the machinist compensates for the wear over those short distances.
The second consideration is that droop in the bed due wear doesn't cause 1:1 change in tool radius. Only the cosine of the angular change from the centerline due wear affects radius, and the cosine of a small angle is a very small error. On a box way machine like my Schaublin the wear on the guiding side way affects radius 1:1, but most lathes guiding ways are prismatic, so there is a cosine error reduction on the the guiding way wear as well.
@@RotarySMP ..wow.. That is a detailed response. Never could figure out that math and cosines. If there is a "3 thousands" wear on the bedway and thus a "belly", can you give me an idea of what that actually would be on a 3 inch bar being machined? Is it actually less than being off a 1 thousands??
@@michaeltca3103 Were is simply a 3 thou wear straight down, then the affect of that dip on part diameter varies with part diameter, but above a mm or two of part diameter it disappears into surface finish variation.
However you never get such 2 dimensional wear. You will also get some wear on the guiding flanks of the prismatic ways. If you have 45° ways, worn down 3 thou, this would affect diameter by about 68% if the error, or 2 though in diameter.
In the real world, a lathe bed worn only 3 though is considered like new. The bed on my Boley is probably worn 20-30 thou but can still make nice parts.
Why did you talk him into getting a smaller less rigid lathe? It seems he was on the right track with an older, larger heavier lathe. That little lathe is fine for hobby but if he is starting a machine shop.... Total fail! At very min, he should gotten a 14X44 lathe. Im sorry but, he wuz right, and yoo wuz wrong.
This is a hobby shop, not a commercial shop, his dad has a bigger lathe he will move in there, and the DSG and LeBlond he was looking at were pretty shagged out.