So close... you must be happy with the surface finish you're getting so far, it bodes well for when the variator and drive is complete. I am enjoying your work immensely.
Thanks a lot. I was thinking that the whole time, that this lathe can do a very high surface finish over a much broader range of feeds and speed than my Boley, (or even more so the mini-lathe).
Very informative. Thanks for showing us what you did. The conversational CNC looks really useful. It can be difficult to get all of your ducks in a row with a new process.
Actually, I think that conversational programming is a pain in the ass compared to a Fanuc with g and m codes. I guess having an old out of date cnc is novel, like driving an old car. When you flipped your part over and indicated it , you should have put a test indicator on that square shoulder that was opposite the chuck. Along with indicating the diameter that you did indicate. Then you would know that the part is both running concentric and square. Invest in a test indicator, that dial indicator that you are using is what mechanics use. Have you actually used g and m codes? They do work pretty well.
@@paul5683 Hi Paul. I have programmed using G an M codes, and also the O codes to do subroutines to automate the multi pass cuts needed. LinuxCNC tracks very close to the RS-274 standard, so it does not include much in the way of multi pass canned cycles for the lathe. These macros are a really time saver for one off parts.
It is the standard Schaublin tool changer for this generation of 125 CNC's. Somewhere along the line they switched to a more modern tool changer with a horizontal rotation axis for the current 125-CCN's.
Thanks, almost but not quite. Been there myself - I keep cutting this part down down, but it's still too short. Nice to see the nameplate being kept clean ;)
that wonderful surface finish will be great for the years in the future, when pulling the tool out of storage and having to clean it off. =D Or when the next owner goes to use it!
Great video, absolutely amazing machine , glad to see you didn't keep the less than perfect tool holder . 1 thing I have learned being a machinist for 23 years your tooling has to be fit to do the job you expect. If you have less than perfect tools you can only expect less than perfect results . Hopefully we get to see a redo
Thanks Michael. This lathe is really rigid and tight. It returns excellent surface finish on a much wider range of F&S than the Boley (or minilathe of course).
As Paul Brodie would say - “that’s a good fit”. Always learning is also a good thing. At least you sister would be proud to see you’re using your tools to make more tools. 😂
Wow some awesome cuts going on there. Pity about the final result but that'll just be some other part in the future. Good to see some chips coming off the Schaublin. - Heather
_huh_ That's pretty neat, I had no idea you could operate a cnc lathe like this. I like the idea of cnc but always thought it would be way too much work to program in the very simple parts that I am generally making, but this... i might have to start saving my pocket money 😁
Your control doesn’t have tool offset capability? What I normally do if I’m not sure what size the tool will cut is. I program a roughing cycle and a separate finish cut. Then when I run the tool the first time I set the offset out to cut large. Leave plenty of stock. Then run my first finish cut with the same offset. Check/ measure the part. Then run finish passes setting the offset in a little at a time till I get to size. In steel like that the shallower the finish depth, the higher the surface speed needs to be to maintain a good finish.
Hi Peter, linuxCNC does have tool radius comp, but I haven't learnt to use it yet. Your input is really helpful. I still have work to do to configure the spindle speed control. I have a pneumatically actuated back gear, a variator and a VFD, and need to work through a control heirarchy to get that all working seemlessly. That explains the limited speed range as I was only on back gear.
Linux CNC has been around for a VERY long time. Originally it was called EMC2. I've been wanting to make a machine that uses it for years and years, but I ended up buying a mill that uses a Mitsubishi controller, and just invested a ton of time into reverse engineering the firmware to allow it to have more memory (than it ever had originally). After investing all that time, I guess I'm sticking with the Mitsubishi control on that machine.
Linuxcnc's history traces back to a research project by the US NIST, who wrote the original source code. Becsue it was paid for with public funds the code was open source. At some stage it was renamed from EMC to LinuxCNC, and a community took over mangment of it. It is really stable and flexible. Can be used on all sorts of machines, including non-cartesian.
This was a neat introduction to conversational programming. I am sorry your taper did not work out, but for a first go, this seemed like a great start.
Rough to +2mm, have a cut 1mm oversize of your desired finish measurement with finish parameters, measure it and comp the difference out between your measured and desired finish dimension is how we usually did at school for straight tolerances. A taper your choice of doing a test-finishing to size a bit further out the shaft makes excellent sense so you still have meat left to cut once adjustments are made!
Thanks. Good approach. My plan would have worked, if I had taken a more aggressive second cut at it, but sort of whittled away at it. Oh well, it was a learning experience.
Yeah learning you'll be best of 1-shotting it on cnc lathes is a bit wacky at first, but when you get into the habit it works very well. Sure beats making a mess of the surface with sneaking up and emery/sanding the last bit of the oversize out of it tho :D
Hi Mark, what a pity with the chuck arbor ... BTW: In your scrap bin are some heat elements from a Ceran Oven. Have you ever tested to us them in a furnace. Are they destroying themselves when they are used without any heat regulation? ... is it possible to save your arbor by totally removing the shoulder for a nice fresh B taper. Why to have a shoulder in the first place?
Those Ceran Oven elements burned out after 27+ years. Amazing that Bosch still had drop in replacement parts on stock. I already have a 2.5kW process oven, so I will just dump the dead elements. Yeah, I already turned off that shoulder :)
A can see that you are still cleaning the sign for the lathe. We are useing tech spray eline for cleaning electronics. One of my mates tried to clean of concrete from the security camera with that spray and it disolved the concrete
@@RotarySMP tapers are like that, got to get it right the first time. wiggle room is quite small, though what I'd do is make the taper first and then the straight shank after.
You get the chuck off with a punch up the center. The shoulder is there for the other end to ensure a defined stock length into the tool changer. I wold have to pull it off, and it is really easy to damage things pulling out those little tapered pins.
The finish is great and the machine performed to a great standard. Now the operator needs a little work maybe a lesson from your daughter she has that welding going in the right direction. It's just teething problems next round will be better, but I would keep a close eye on your daughter she just might borrow the lathe. Have a great week.
It wasnt. I have a back gear, a variator and a VFD. It was only in back gear and the Variator was controlling speed. I am currently working on how to integrate the controls to play nicely with each other.
I am pretty sure this machine has the rigidity for them, but I would expect you need a few test parts to dial in the feeds and speeds. I mostly only make small parts and one offs.
Out of curiosity what is your daughter’s welding project? My niece and nephew are visiting along with my sister at the end of the month and I was thinking about teaching them to weld while they’re here. I’m looking for possible project ideas that would appeal to the teens.
Hi Jeffrey, no project yet. I just had our #1 fam Nico over and was lettig him try TIG, as he just did a MIG course, and then my daughter popped around, and so I asked her if she wanted to try it as well.
@@RotarySMP yes I think I might have to block that site as seem to be using it more and more :) the problem is finding space for it. I think I would have to find something a bit smaller
Hi Steve, I am just getting back into it. Rewatching the "Feral engineer" classic ladder series, and trying to work out how to make it all play nicely together.
@@RotarySMP looking forward to the solution. For a bit of perspective, mori seiki (and most others) used a 2 speed gear box and switched between gears either with a selector switch or using M-code (normally M41 and M42). spindle range is selected Before any cutting. at its simplest and most basic M41 could be low/low ratio with the backgear and vatiator and M42 high/high.
@@RotarySMP I have already sold my milling machine so next is the lathe. Getting older with all that comes with it, pain all over. Time to clear all my tooling as well.
With carbide inserts you should at least be cutting the depth of the nose radius of the insert to maintain a good surface finish. Anything less and the insert is just rubbing the material, not cutting. I believe I heard this advice from one of Keith Fenner's or MrPete222's older videos. This advice seems to be working out for me at least.
Yep. That was part of the issue I had. The highly positive, sharp polished aluminium cutting insert is more like HSS, in that it will take a very fine cut, much thinner than the nose radius. I should have set that tool up in advance.
@@RotarySMP That almost seems like an improvement that could be made in the macros - if it's going to take multiple passes of full DOC + a tiny little bit, it should do the tiny little bit pass at the beginning, rather than as the last pass.
Maybe im fooled by the edit but it seems the reason it still didnt grip is that you forgot to shorten it (again) after extending the taper the last time. As well as learning to not creep up in terms of depth of cut, maybe we can all also learn there is no reason to try to get the length exact in a case like and creep up on that 1mm at a time, it wouldn't have killed the part to take a whole mm off the shoulder and length, which at 1.4 degrees corresponds to only a 20 microns or so on the diameter ..
I always learn something from my mistakes, so don't be too hard on yourself. Just bore that sucker out with taper and make a new double ended one for the drill chuck. She'll be right, mate.
As programmer and hater of one of Microsoft's original windows C++ UI frameworks, MFC. I can proudly announce the MDI stands for Multiple Document Interface. I still feel pity for people decades later that still have to deal with and maintain that crap. 😂
Is hand coding so dead it doesn't even make the list? 😂 I hand code the lathe. It's a lot faster to make the 2nd (good 😅) part if you already have a program, vs all the macro steps.
You know, i fell in love with machines quite a while ago, and i never hoped to own a single one, but now i do, and not just one, but when i decided to start getting machines after over a decade of dedicated learning about them and all things related, i thought to myself that i will never get a cnc or own one... I didnt like the concept, as i love the machines, and love interacting with them and taking care of them, but cnc has none of that to it really... Its like the difference between a proper old manual car with basic abs, manual gearbox and all things mechanical vs these newfangled monstrosities like tesla and its ilk... And while i actually never will own any car newer than 2015, i have changed my mind regarding the cnc machines... Not just that, but i decided to pick up 2 old automatic lathes and convert them into cnc... When i first saw this channel, i thought ``well, the guy is cnc focused, and that`s not my spiel, but i will stick around, as the guy is a man of culture(what with you having a schaublin and a maho)``, little did i know that over next 3 years, i would grow to appreciate your focus on the cnc more than i could even hint at guessing... The second lathe, the one that i have to pick up in about a month is a twin separate ways auto lathe with additional parting axis atop the headstock, which will give me the opportunity to integrate both a turning system, as in a cnc lathe, but also a milling and grinding system on the other set of ways, rendering the machine into a full blown multi axis cnc center, rather than just a cnc lathe... Its mostly for the purpose of making specialty stuff, like endmills, cutters, 3 flute carbide or hssco drills and what not, as im too much of a jew to pay for those... I much prefer getting the raw high grade stock and doing stuff myself for 1/10 the price... And hell, it will widen my capacity for production of any part type that is within size limits of the machine...
@@RotarySMP She is not a `yuge behemoth like my 3ton beast of a lathe(also work in progress)... Uhmm, im barely thinking right now, as my hvac sprung a leak and its like 30C here, so on the pain of death i cant recall the make... I think she`s a Habegger... An early model with full hydraulics and what appears to me as some complex reduction drive system, like the countershaft gearbox... Im not sure, she is another rescue puppy, so i couldnt dig around too much... I just doused her with wd40, wiped her off, doused her with industrial forklift grease(2x500ml cans) and wrapped her in 150m of clingwrap until further notice... Age-wise, being an auto lathe, and a swiss one, i would say she is at least from the 70`s if not older... I will film the work... The conversion will not start anytime soon, as i have 9 other machines to take care of beforehand(kill me now), but i will get my shit straight and start filming some of my work, as its a waste to not do it... Maybe it inspires another madman like me to fall in love with machines to the point that i have, and so more masterpieces in iron will be saved from the cruel fate of being turned into dreck grade brake rotors by being crushed and smelted with random crap... These are high grade monuments of mankinds glory, and we toss them to be turned into low grade junk just because they are no longer the latest and most high production setups... Speaking of salvage puppies, i snagged a mini vert. shaper/press that is at least 50 years old and from what i can ascertain, is practically unused... A single dovetail way for the vertical ram and a huge pendulum treadle actuator... A mad little thing that i have picked up and just started on... I think i will be able to make a few bits and bobs for her, as to be able to make internal ring gears, which are a great thing to implement in many things... Handwheels on machines for one can benefit from them, as you can turn a regular 0.025mm per division handwheel into a 2 speed gearbox that will reduce the output down to 0.0002mm or whatever you need and can work into the handwheel scale ring body... Some machines have huge scales, so 200 or more teeth gear is easily possible, and that coupled with a 20 tooth gear will reduce the output, well, 10 times... I guess filming stuff will allow me to stop writing bible long comments like this... But its not likely... All the best and warmest regards! Steuss
So close... you must be happy with the surface finish you're getting so far, it bodes well for when the variator and drive is complete. I am enjoying your work immensely.
Thanks a lot. I was thinking that the whole time, that this lathe can do a very high surface finish over a much broader range of feeds and speed than my Boley, (or even more so the mini-lathe).
Always something to do, keep us off the street. 🙂Yes, a very nice lathe, lucky one.
Sure is :)
Nothing quite like watching you make some chips on a sunday morning! I look forward to it every week! Great video buddy!
Thanks for the kind feedback. It help, as this was not the ending I was hoping for :/
@RotarySMP totally fine. Can't win them all. Still interesting watching the process of cnc turning
@@arimadx Thanks for your support.
Perfect timing! Just in time for lunch.
Pretty cool that the community shares those types of macros. Hope we get to see the do-over :-)
Thanks. Bon appetite.
I am still tossing up whether to make a new one, or just remove the shoulder from this one.
Still having trouble with that name plate I see 😂
Thanks for the video. Great surface finish!
The Schaublin really does deliver amazing finishes over a very wide range of feeds and speeds. Nice.
That’s pretty exciting. Good to see some CNC action happening…
Thanks John. Pretty happy with the lathes performance.
I’ve frequently read about Andy’s macros. Nice to see them in action! Thanks
I had been meaning to set that up for ages. It is a real game changer in the home shop where most of what I do are simple parts like that.
Clearance so tight it pushed the oil up the set screw on the tool post. nice
Yeah, that end came out great.
Very informative. Thanks for showing us what you did. The conversational CNC looks really useful. It can be difficult to get all of your ducks in a row with a new process.
Yeah, I really is a nice simple interface which Andy programmed there. Perfect for the sort of one off home shop projects I do.
Actually, I think that conversational programming is a pain in the ass compared to a Fanuc with g and m codes.
I guess having an old out of date cnc is novel, like driving an old car. When you flipped your part over and indicated it , you should have put a test indicator on that square shoulder that was opposite the chuck. Along with indicating the diameter that you did indicate. Then you would know that the part is both running concentric and square.
Invest in a test indicator, that dial indicator that you are using is what mechanics use.
Have you actually used g and m codes? They do work pretty well.
@@paul5683 Hi Paul. I have programmed using G an M codes, and also the O codes to do subroutines to automate the multi pass cuts needed.
LinuxCNC tracks very close to the RS-274 standard, so it does not include much in the way of multi pass canned cycles for the lathe. These macros are a really time saver for one off parts.
Those conversational macros are very useful
I think so too!
I gotta say that I love open source coding and the open source community!! Great video as always, thank you for uploading. 👍👍
My pleasure! Thanks for the feedback.
Every new mistakes makes us all learn something. Keep on the good work !
Thanks, will do!
Excellent machine! I think I would sleeve it (maybe shrink fit or pin it) and let that beautiful machine make that perfect taper. Great work!
Thanks for the tips Jasper. This lathe is really stiff, and gives great surface finish over a wide rang eof F&S. Nice.
I’ve never seen that style tool post before, such a great use of the space between the dovetails to hold round tools
It is the standard Schaublin tool changer for this generation of 125 CNC's. Somewhere along the line they switched to a more modern tool changer with a horizontal rotation axis for the current 125-CCN's.
Thanks, almost but not quite. Been there myself - I keep cutting this part down down, but it's still too short. Nice to see the nameplate being kept clean ;)
I even left extra length to be able o sneak up on it. But oh well :/
Nicely done and well explained.
Thank you kindly!
that wonderful surface finish will be great for the years in the future, when pulling the tool out of storage and having to clean it off. =D Or when the next owner goes to use it!
Yep. You can see how Schaublin got it's reputatoin.
It wouldn't be an adventure without a few hills to climb. Great finishes though!
Thanks Jim.
Educational and entertaining at the same time, thanks for sharing
Thanks for your kind feedback.
Great video, absolutely amazing machine , glad to see you didn't keep the less than perfect tool holder . 1 thing I have learned being a machinist for 23 years your tooling has to be fit to do the job you expect. If you have less than perfect tools you can only expect less than perfect results . Hopefully we get to see a redo
Thanks Michael. This lathe is really rigid and tight. It returns excellent surface finish on a much wider range of F&S than the Boley (or minilathe of course).
As Paul Brodie would say - “that’s a good fit”. Always learning is also a good thing. At least you sister would be proud to see you’re using your tools to make more tools. 😂
I have my doubts that my Sister will ever know :)
Wow some awesome cuts going on there. Pity about the final result but that'll just be some other part in the future. Good to see some chips coming off the Schaublin. - Heather
Thanks Heather, this lathe really does a nice surface finish over a wide range of F&S.
_huh_ That's pretty neat, I had no idea you could operate a cnc lathe like this. I like the idea of cnc but always thought it would be way too much work to program in the very simple parts that I am generally making, but this... i might have to start saving my pocket money 😁
Yeah, it is a really game changer for single part home shop use. Very cool interface.
We have all been there. You just need to buy the inserts with a negative depth of cut to put the material back.
Those are a the really expensive ones, right?
Your control doesn’t have tool offset capability? What I normally do if I’m not sure what size the tool will cut is. I program a roughing cycle and a separate finish cut. Then when I run the tool the first time I set the offset out to cut large. Leave plenty of stock. Then run my first finish cut with the same offset. Check/ measure the part. Then run finish passes setting the offset in a little at a time till I get to size. In steel like that the shallower the finish depth, the higher the surface speed needs to be to maintain a good finish.
Hi Peter, linuxCNC does have tool radius comp, but I haven't learnt to use it yet. Your input is really helpful.
I still have work to do to configure the spindle speed control. I have a pneumatically actuated back gear, a variator and a VFD, and need to work through a control heirarchy to get that all working seemlessly. That explains the limited speed range as I was only on back gear.
That lathe is pretty neat, didn't know there was a such thing as Linux CNC, kind of reminds me of mazatrol a little. Great video thanks.
Linux CNC has been around for a VERY long time. Originally it was called EMC2. I've been wanting to make a machine that uses it for years and years, but I ended up buying a mill that uses a Mitsubishi controller, and just invested a ton of time into reverse engineering the firmware to allow it to have more memory (than it ever had originally). After investing all that time, I guess I'm sticking with the Mitsubishi control on that machine.
Linuxcnc's history traces back to a research project by the US NIST, who wrote the original source code. Becsue it was paid for with public funds the code was open source. At some stage it was renamed from EMC to LinuxCNC, and a community took over mangment of it. It is really stable and flexible. Can be used on all sorts of machines, including non-cartesian.
This was a neat introduction to conversational programming. I am sorry your taper did not work out, but for a first go, this seemed like a great start.
Thanks for the feedback. The next one will be better.
@RotarySMP Outstanding! I am looking forward to seeing it as always.
@@mbox314 Thanks for your support.
Rough to +2mm, have a cut 1mm oversize of your desired finish measurement with finish parameters, measure it and comp the difference out between your measured and desired finish dimension is how we usually did at school for straight tolerances. A taper your choice of doing a test-finishing to size a bit further out the shaft makes excellent sense so you still have meat left to cut once adjustments are made!
Thanks. Good approach.
My plan would have worked, if I had taken a more aggressive second cut at it, but sort of whittled away at it. Oh well, it was a learning experience.
Yeah learning you'll be best of 1-shotting it on cnc lathes is a bit wacky at first, but when you get into the habit it works very well. Sure beats making a mess of the surface with sneaking up and emery/sanding the last bit of the oversize out of it tho :D
@@Echo51 I'll set up the sharp/positive insert on a different tool holder, and have it dialed in in advance as well :)
Great lessons. Thanks for sharing ❤
Thanks for your kind feedback.
Geeat video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Mark,
what a pity with the chuck arbor ...
BTW: In your scrap bin are some heat elements from a Ceran Oven.
Have you ever tested to us them in a furnace. Are they destroying themselves when they are used without any heat regulation?
... is it possible to save your arbor by totally removing the shoulder for a nice fresh B taper.
Why to have a shoulder in the first place?
Those Ceran Oven elements burned out after 27+ years. Amazing that Bosch still had drop in replacement parts on stock. I already have a 2.5kW process oven, so I will just dump the dead elements.
Yeah, I already turned off that shoulder :)
Thats a nice machine
Thanks Rob. It really is. Great surface finsh over a wide range of F&S.
A can see that you are still cleaning the sign for the lathe. We are useing tech spray eline for cleaning electronics. One of my mates tried to clean of concrete from the security camera with that spray and it disolved the concrete
I dont want my lathe disolved :/
Pretty close! 😀
Thanks Julia. Next time I'll get it right... I hope. :)
Very nice machine!
It sure is! Thanks Joel.
Haha been there, done that. I can feel the pain from here.
Pretty annoyed with myself for that lack of a result.
@@RotarySMP tapers are like that, got to get it right the first time. wiggle room is quite small, though what I'd do is make the taper first and then the straight shank after.
@@HM-Projects How would you hold it, after making the taper? I guess all in a single setup between centers?
If you keep thinning out the shoulder, how to ever get the drill chick off the arbor again?
Have you tried the nameplate in the ultrasonic cleaner?
You get the chuck off with a punch up the center. The shoulder is there for the other end to ensure a defined stock length into the tool changer.
I wold have to pull it off, and it is really easy to damage things pulling out those little tapered pins.
Do you know if there are macros for milling machines running on linuxcnc? The lathe macros are awesome!
Hi Julien,
The closest thing would be to install the Native cam plugin.
The finish is great and the machine performed to a great standard. Now the operator needs a little work maybe a lesson from your daughter she has that welding going in the right direction. It's just teething problems next round will be better, but I would keep a close eye on your daughter she just might borrow the lathe. Have a great week.
Yeah. CNC 1 : Mark zero!
Do you not have variable speed setup on the lathe? Looks like the the center speed wasn’t enough
It wasnt. I have a back gear, a variator and a VFD. It was only in back gear and the Variator was controlling speed. I am currently working on how to integrate the controls to play nicely with each other.
I wonder if you can use negative geometry insert, these tend to have a nicer finish, but requires quite more rigidity and power.
I am pretty sure this machine has the rigidity for them, but I would expect you need a few test parts to dial in the feeds and speeds. I mostly only make small parts and one offs.
Out of curiosity what is your daughter’s welding project? My niece and nephew are visiting along with my sister at the end of the month and I was thinking about teaching them to weld while they’re here. I’m looking for possible project ideas that would appeal to the teens.
Hi Jeffrey, no project yet. I just had our #1 fam Nico over and was lettig him try TIG, as he just did a MIG course, and then my daughter popped around, and so I asked her if she wanted to try it as well.
11:20 & 17:43 - No plop? You're a shame to this community! 😉
No seriously, I'm jealous of you machines... Great Job!
I know... a shame :)
Grate vide at this rate I might have to get a cnc machine my self:) I am pretty sure you'll get your bandsaw gearbox up an running soon.
Hi Luke,
Yeah, that second shaft is looking much simpler, now I know that this 1.8179 steel machines really nicely.
@@RotarySMP yes and you have a real nice lathe there. I really need to keep an eye out for a small cnc mill.
@@LCalleja The Maho is a nice machine. They seem pretty common on Kleinanzeigen.de.
@@RotarySMP yes I think I might have to block that site as seem to be using it more and more :) the problem is finding space for it. I think I would have to find something a bit smaller
@@LCalleja I considered modifying a smaller machine, but by the time you put an enclsue on it, the foot print ends up nearly the same.
Curious as to what cam your running?
The one I showed is an ancient version of FeatureCam. I am now trying to get my head around the CAM in FreeCad.
@@RotarySMP interesting, I will give it a go. One thing about CNC is cam is harder to get used to than 3d printing.
@@Engineerd3d It is. You need experience and "feel" for feeds and speeds, stick out, deflection, clamping and fixturing etc.
Mmmm chips! 👍
Was about time wasn't it :)
Hi Mark, without giving up to much of the plot on the backgear/variator control episode , how is that going?
Hi Steve, I am just getting back into it. Rewatching the "Feral engineer" classic ladder series, and trying to work out how to make it all play nicely together.
@@RotarySMP looking forward to the solution.
For a bit of perspective, mori seiki (and most others) used a 2 speed gear box and switched between gears either with a selector switch
or using M-code (normally M41 and M42). spindle range is selected Before any cutting.
at its simplest and most basic M41 could be low/low ratio with the backgear and vatiator
and M42 high/high.
Yeyy those macros really rock, done some add+mods
Cheers from Sweden Bengt
ps. my Lathe is for sale
Hi Bengt. What are you replacing your lathe with?
@@RotarySMP I have already sold my milling machine so next is the lathe. Getting older with all that comes with it, pain all over. Time to clear all my tooling as well.
@@tecnobs3d I hope you have some mate who will still make parts for you.
@@RotarySMP Mostly 3D printing now both resin and FDM
@@tecnobs3d It is fun technology.
With carbide inserts you should at least be cutting the depth of the nose radius of the insert to maintain a good surface finish. Anything less and the insert is just rubbing the material, not cutting. I believe I heard this advice from one of Keith Fenner's or MrPete222's older videos. This advice seems to be working out for me at least.
Yep. That was part of the issue I had. The highly positive, sharp polished aluminium cutting insert is more like HSS, in that it will take a very fine cut, much thinner than the nose radius. I should have set that tool up in advance.
@@RotarySMP That almost seems like an improvement that could be made in the macros - if it's going to take multiple passes of full DOC + a tiny little bit, it should do the tiny little bit pass at the beginning, rather than as the last pass.
@@gorak9000 That is a good idea.
Maybe im fooled by the edit but it seems the reason it still didnt grip is that you forgot to shorten it (again) after extending the taper the last time. As well as learning to not creep up in terms of depth of cut, maybe we can all also learn there is no reason to try to get the length exact in a case like and creep up on that 1mm at a time, it wouldn't have killed the part to take a whole mm off the shoulder and length, which at 1.4 degrees corresponds to only a 20 microns or so on the diameter ..
I didn't show it, but did shorten the part.
I always learn something from my mistakes, so don't be too hard on yourself. Just bore that sucker out with taper and make a new double ended one for the drill chuck. She'll be right, mate.
Thanks Rick. Intersting idea.
nice
Thanks for watching.
Drill and bore the adapter and you have a nice small boring bar holder.😅
Also a good idea. Thanks.
But at least your explanations were very clear. Even I understood a part of it... I think.
Hi Michel, it is hard to make videos about this stuff, as it is combination of not visual, and boring for most :)
As programmer and hater of one of Microsoft's original windows C++ UI frameworks, MFC. I can proudly announce the MDI stands for Multiple Document Interface. I still feel pity for people decades later that still have to deal with and maintain that crap. 😂
Thanks for clearing that up. Many machinist's have been thinking that was Manual Data Input. :)
@@RotarySMP You know I'm always here to help😂
Good vieo ratarysmp
Thanks
The jepardy of cnc is too high for me. It is stressful to watch.
Yeah, I get that as well Andrew, manual machining is more relaxing.
Rather than jog wheels, you may want to try an XBox controller,
Nah, those are for controlling bathescopes :/
even professional machinists have scrap bins😁.
CNC does make lovely scrap parts :)
@@RotarySMP very reliably and as many as you (don't) want
@@RotarySMP CNC let's us automate our failures. We can fail faster and more fully than ever before.
@@blahblahblahblah2933sometimes even multiple parts in a row.
Is hand coding so dead it doesn't even make the list? 😂 I hand code the lathe. It's a lot faster to make the 2nd (good 😅) part if you already have a program, vs all the macro steps.
Good point. I also hand coded up till now, but make too many errors.
You know, i fell in love with machines quite a while ago, and i never hoped to own a single one, but now i do, and not just one, but when i decided to start getting machines after over a decade of dedicated learning about them and all things related, i thought to myself that i will never get a cnc or own one... I didnt like the concept, as i love the machines, and love interacting with them and taking care of them, but cnc has none of that to it really... Its like the difference between a proper old manual car with basic abs, manual gearbox and all things mechanical vs these newfangled monstrosities like tesla and its ilk... And while i actually never will own any car newer than 2015, i have changed my mind regarding the cnc machines... Not just that, but i decided to pick up 2 old automatic lathes and convert them into cnc...
When i first saw this channel, i thought ``well, the guy is cnc focused, and that`s not my spiel, but i will stick around, as the guy is a man of culture(what with you having a schaublin and a maho)``, little did i know that over next 3 years, i would grow to appreciate your focus on the cnc more than i could even hint at guessing...
The second lathe, the one that i have to pick up in about a month is a twin separate ways auto lathe with additional parting axis atop the headstock, which will give me the opportunity to integrate both a turning system, as in a cnc lathe, but also a milling and grinding system on the other set of ways, rendering the machine into a full blown multi axis cnc center, rather than just a cnc lathe...
Its mostly for the purpose of making specialty stuff, like endmills, cutters, 3 flute carbide or hssco drills and what not, as im too much of a jew to pay for those... I much prefer getting the raw high grade stock and doing stuff myself for 1/10 the price... And hell, it will widen my capacity for production of any part type that is within size limits of the machine...
Glad you are enjoying my videos. Sounds like a beast of a lathe you have coming. What brand and age is it? Will do do videos on it?
@@RotarySMP She is not a `yuge behemoth like my 3ton beast of a lathe(also work in progress)... Uhmm, im barely thinking right now, as my hvac sprung a leak and its like 30C here, so on the pain of death i cant recall the make... I think she`s a Habegger... An early model with full hydraulics and what appears to me as some complex reduction drive system, like the countershaft gearbox... Im not sure, she is another rescue puppy, so i couldnt dig around too much... I just doused her with wd40, wiped her off, doused her with industrial forklift grease(2x500ml cans) and wrapped her in 150m of clingwrap until further notice... Age-wise, being an auto lathe, and a swiss one, i would say she is at least from the 70`s if not older...
I will film the work... The conversion will not start anytime soon, as i have 9 other machines to take care of beforehand(kill me now), but i will get my shit straight and start filming some of my work, as its a waste to not do it... Maybe it inspires another madman like me to fall in love with machines to the point that i have, and so more masterpieces in iron will be saved from the cruel fate of being turned into dreck grade brake rotors by being crushed and smelted with random crap... These are high grade monuments of mankinds glory, and we toss them to be turned into low grade junk just because they are no longer the latest and most high production setups...
Speaking of salvage puppies, i snagged a mini vert. shaper/press that is at least 50 years old and from what i can ascertain, is practically unused... A single dovetail way for the vertical ram and a huge pendulum treadle actuator... A mad little thing that i have picked up and just started on... I think i will be able to make a few bits and bobs for her, as to be able to make internal ring gears, which are a great thing to implement in many things... Handwheels on machines for one can benefit from them, as you can turn a regular 0.025mm per division handwheel into a 2 speed gearbox that will reduce the output down to 0.0002mm or whatever you need and can work into the handwheel scale ring body... Some machines have huge scales, so 200 or more teeth gear is easily possible, and that coupled with a 20 tooth gear will reduce the output, well, 10 times...
I guess filming stuff will allow me to stop writing bible long comments like this... But its not likely...
All the best and warmest regards!
Steuss