Way back when I was in high school I flunked one semester of algebra then came back the next year and got an A in the class, just shows what a difference a teacher can make. You Joe are like the second teacher I had, thanks!
Using your own valuable time. Using your own stock. Using electricity to run machine's Then have to clean up after. Just to share, makes you a great bloke Joe Pieczynski.
Joe, the value of SHOWING what goes wrong with improper techniques cannot be overstated. I've heard many UA-camrs lecture on this topic. However, seeing the resulting finishes and hearing the sounds the lathe makes creates a memory that is likely to return to the student's mind when they need it. Thank you so much for taking time to help us beginning hobbiests who have little opportunity to get any professional instruction or feedback in this CNC age.
this stuff helps guys like me a lot. I'm not a machinist by a long stretch. I use my machines to repair old stuff, to invent new stuff and come up with solutions to problems. I been blessed with a vision to see things in my head but lack the knowledge to get the best machining results when building out my vision. videos like these give me the tools to investigate where my machining problem is and helps me build up my machining skills. I really appreciate you taking your time to create these videos in a format than even an uneducated person like myself can understand. you are a great instructor. thanks again!
I am in my 50's have self tout myself in wood working, mechanics, ect. all those years before U_TUBE. How many things I learned the hard way. Now I am self teaching myself in machining. If you only knew how many screw-up's you and Mr Pete, Abom, have saved me!!!!! Cant thank you enough for sharing your years of experience with all of us. I always try and let the add's run through so you get what ever they are giving you. Thanks Again
A very useful concept is that everything on metal cutting equipment, the tools, the spindle, the main castings and even the floor the machine occupies, is a spring. Everything you do is creating forces that cause the spring to flex (just a little in even the best cutting conditions). When one of these springs starts vibrating it can cause a harmonic that will start other "springs" in your set-up to start vibrating. Everything needs to be solid!!
I believe this to be true, sometimes you can stick a magnet, 1"x1"x2" or bigger, onto your tool to change the frequency of the harmonics to quiet things down.
I would like to thank you Sir for your excellent videos regarding machining and topics associated with machining. I have watched literally hundreds of machining videos and I can honestly say that in my opinion they are the best available. One of the important features of your videos is the continued emphasis on safety. I worked in the construction and fabrication industries for many years and have seen the results when one is uninformed, foolish or inattentive when working around equipment. It can and will bite you very quickly if you don't have respect for it. The other thing that I like about your videos is the wealth of useful information they contain. You go out of your way to offer up the "tricks of the trade" and mentor others in a straight forward no nonsense manner which gets the point across without confusing the viewer. This video offered up new insights to me along with confirming some of my suspicions about machining and finishes. Your other videos have all done the same whether it be trade mathematics, machine operation, or any other subject you chose to touch on. Kudos to your Sir and again, many thanks. One question I would have for you is regarding another video I have viewed. ( ua-cam.com/video/gVF-pWfsaQ0/v-deo.html ) The finish on the piece is terrible and he uses what he calls a "shear" tool to clean it up. Have you ever seen this and if so, would you ever use it? I am curious about it and the grind and set up.
Since chattering is a resonance phenomenon, surprising things can happen. For example, sometimes a heavier cut produces less chatter and vice versa, because resonant frequencies interact with everything in the setup. Great job, as usual, Joe. Thanks.
I've worked with education of advanced machining and all I can say is: GREAT demonstration and discussion! I'll be forwarding this to colleagues. One small addition that I don't think was mentioned: Don't ignore these issues during rough cutting assuming they will go away with a finishing pass, they might get reduced but to some degree vibration issues during roughing effects the finishing (brass is rather forgiving with this). And if someone wonders, everything here is applicable for CNC machines as well.
Joe, thanks for reiterating that equipment can literally take your head/hand/whatever off instantly, otherwise make it an unrecognizable mess. I've probably commented on this before on your site, but safety is just too important to be left to chance. Even today when I'm having someone do something, I emphasize that virtually nothing is so important that it can't be done safely. I was working in PA several years ago, and at night signed up for a machine shop class at a local tech school to do something I enjoyed, having access to the shop. Regardless of the experience or skill level of the students, the first night the instructor showed us around the room, describing its equipment, what it was supposed to be used for, and most importantly the builtin safety measures - kill switches on each type of machine, and kill switches around the wall with any one able to simultaneously kill power to every machine in the shop. He told about one unlucky fellow whose pony tail got caught in a lathe. We never asked his fate, but it couldn't have been good. Again, thanks for the excellent advice. And lots of other good info on how to use the machinery.
@@joepie221 Definitely subscribed, and also love how safety conscious your shop is, I've worked in far too many places where it's just been joked about... until someone got seriously injured.
Joe, its not too long. Even for my short attention span. i enjoy your presentation of so many basic techniques. I have owned a lathe and a mill for over 40 years and still learn so much. You and your efforts are appreciated greatly.
Another type of QCTP is the Multifix or 40 position, I MUCH prefer these types. Very rigid and repeatable, any lathe I own gets a Multifix first thing. Great vids Joe, the young guys and us more "experienced" among us can learn a lot from JP. Dont forget getting that tool on center height...
Also may I say Joe. Really love the way you teach. There's a few channels I've watched. But don't want to say exactly who those are. But I have found even with asking a simple question or even giving my thanks & appreciation. I have never ounce got a reply from the uploader. Maybe because I'm not a machinist but just a qualified carpenter. Yes I know but my fondness for engineering has come from my grandfather who was a shipbuilder in Spain. Who sadly passed away a few yrs back. Whome I was very proud off. But I always loved his engineering machinery. Strangely enough your character does remind me off my grandfather. Although your a lot younger. May I say. But I do love how you explain things to a Leyman such as myself trying to learn as much as possible and waiting eagerly to get my lathe up and running. I for one appriciate the time and effort you guys take to teach these great videos especially knowing it's all your free time. And a big thanks for all the support you give to everyone around the world who enjoys your videos.
@@joepie221 no honestly joe your a great guy. I always find your explanation and your videos very professional. The way you explain things is just perfect. It's so appriciated thanks buddy. God bless you and your family.
Would love to see a follow up video for stopping chatter on long work between centers, stuff like gun barrels, long drive shafts those kind of things. I've never really had follow rests or steady rests usage explained real well, and have had very little luck using them.
I was running a Bullard 56" VTL and the part I was machining required a 32 finish. The finish cut started out great but half way thru the cut I suddenly got some shatter. After hours of checking things to no avail and repeated cuts I finally realized the cause of the problem was the horizontal milling machine next to me. Every time he did a roughing pass with his 2" rougher bingo it showed up. No body believed me until I had somebody witness it.......love your videos
I was watching your "Making an Edge Finder" video, stopped and started reading the comments and saw this video on the right. Bad Turned Surface Finish, is just what I have been experiencing with my latest project. I can't work with my 12x36 lathe, so am using my Maximat 7 machine to turn a 6 inch long bar of 1117 down to .625 diameter. I don't think there was any chatter, but the tearing and threading look of the cut is just what I experienced with the cuts. I have no gears to change the lead screw speed with this machine. The tool was extended more than I like, but with the live center, I had no choice. Tool slide had to be almost parallel with the ways, tail stock ram extended too far, and only one speed for the carriage. I tried several different cutting tools that came with a machinist tool box I bought and all had the same results. Finally ground a cutter with about 7° on either side, about 5° on top and a nose radius of about 1/6th inch. The surface cut was not the best, but it was acceptable for this project. The threaded look and feel is still there, but now I know why.
I've actually seen the flexing problem firsthand on my mini lathe. Whenever I turn really small parts like punches, I often have to do it without tailstock support. Sometimes the material flexes so much that I might start a cut turning at a specific diameter, and the tool will suddenly engage with the material and make these huge deep wide divots. or it'll do the opposite and suddenly flex and glide over, making these ridges in the part. also lots of tearing lol.
Great video Joe. I know how hard it must be to demonstrate failures when you spend your career doing everything possible to avoid them. Even harder when you have your machines well maintained and adjusted. Thanks.
Wow, a golden nugget of surface finish info wrapped in one video. Your deliberate and rational process of creating the problems and trouble shooting them away in a logical controlled way makes things extra fascinating. Thanks.
Great "how to do it wrong" video. I remember making most of these mistakes when I first started out...even being distracted by the resonance in chatter (I'm a physicist..heh, that doesn't make you a machinist.) of a big piece of brass pipe, when I should have just stopped it as you did somewhat after 28 min - instead, the pipe climbed the tool, flew by my head going *very fast*...and I learned something I'll never forget!
Thanks Joe! Another video with great advise. I cought on the earlier mistakes and was waiting for you to let us know what went wrong, but never thought you'd actually point out the very best solution to them. Especially the one with the v block. You were like "there is no solution for the vise when having variations on your part... And then "boom!"🤯 V block!!! Thanks again brother!
I'm still very new to hobby machining: this is one of the most helpful videos that I've seen. It explains why some of my practice cuts have ended up looking so dreadful! Thank you for taking the time to share this, it's much appreciated.
Joe, Brilliant, as ever ! Could I mention excessive clearance in slide ways, or headstock bearings as worthy of consideration in smaller machines, especially model maker’s lathes, which often have plain bearings for the headstock spindle. I don’t suppose that is something that you’ll have to worry about with your Colchester ! Remember that, in all machining operations, we are tearing material from the surface of our component, and the geometry of the tool cutting face is designed to open up a shear plane just in front of the tip : I think that the angle, and height, of the top surface of the tool is thus very important to ensure that the shear plane is running in the right direction. My old lecturer in production engineering at college always used to say that our job is to make as much swarf, as fast as possible, because the customer only buys what’s left !
Thanks for this great info. I'm not a real machinist, I call myself a "shade tree machinist.' Speeds and feeds as well as DOC have always been a mystery to me. This video, as with all your others, has been a tremendous help.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, I have a great deal of respect for your expertise but this was by far the best learning experience I have had with you. Thanks Joe.
Excellent info for a novice like me, I had chatter in everything. Purchased anti vibration machine mounts and half went away. I think I can improve from where I am with some of your advice.
I've been working in the trade for 32 years straight out of trade school. I've been an apprentice, a moldmaker and for the past 5 years have run citizen swiss turning machines. I just want to say Joe i watch your show because i like the way you present and teach lessons in machining. I wish my trade school teacher was as direct and complete as you are. I occasionally learn something myself. Good job Joe
Where you discussed the collet and sag of material... It would have taken me forever to figure that out. What you say makes total sense. Thanks for another great video.
This was one of the most informative videos I've seen in a while. I wish there was more content on stuff like this for lathe and mill. Being a student at a technical college I only get about 5 hours a week around these machines and the instructor doesn't have time to show us nuances like this to improve our skills. We are busy making things from blueprints to be graded, and reading about something I did wrong, like finish, 3 weeks later after doing it doesn't help very much. Thanks for the instruction.
Great video - thanks. Suggestion for a follow-up: grind a tool bit badly and show how it affects finish. By "badly", I mean with the wrong relief and rake angles.
19:00 so this is the technique I need to use when I want my scale model parts to have a "hammered" finish? No joke, it seems like you could dial in a certain texture if you wanted a part to look cast or worn. Hit it with the right mix or red and brown to make a convincing old rusty iron piece.
Great video. I learned a lot. One thing I learned is that good machining is important. My lathe has a problem that the chisel can move down when under (not so much) pressure making the chatter terrible.
Hi Joe, that's easily one of the best machining videos I have seen so far. I'm at my first steps with a tiny, 64 years old lathe. Basically, you have made a video of all mistakes I have been doing so far :-) And at the same time you've explained how to avoid all that mess. I highly recommend this lesson to all newbies like me! Subscribed.
Thanks for making the content you produce. My father has been a tool and die maker for pretty much as long as I’ve been alive, so I’ve learned a thing or two from him, but I’m also still learning on my own. I learn twice as fast visually, so youtube is often where I seek knowledge. I already knew most of what this was going to cover, but I watched anyway and still ended up learning some things. I now have access to a lathe whenever I want, so I’ve begun to further my knowledge and take it beyond where it’s ever been since my lathe isn’t imaginary anymore. Your channel is part of that journey. I’ve learned a surprising amount from you already and I’ve barely scratched the surface of your content. I also appreciate the refreshers on things I once learned but forgot, and watching how you set up and perform certain tasks, everyone is different in their methods and sometimes you see something done different and have a lightbulb moment of your own. Thanks for starting this off with safety tips, I don’t see enough of that on UA-cam for the new guys and hobbyists who may have never learned it. Thankfully I’ve never witnessed any accidents, nor had any significant ones of my own, but I remember my dad teaching me about machine safety at a young age. Rotating objects + loose clothing, hair, or jewelry = a bad day. Goes for small stuff like angle grinders and Dremel tools as well as their even more powerful big siblings like lathes, mills, pedestal grinders, etc. but some people aren’t fortunate enough to learn that before they become the lesson. I think some people also grossly underestimate how much torque even their little hobby lathe can have via gear reduction, heck even a handheld cordless drill, let alone a ~3HP machine like mine, and that’s not even a large high powered machine compared to some. Only takes one oops or moment of overconfidence, and your life could be altered in a blink.
Both of you guys forgot the MOST important safety rule. Even more important then glasses. Loose the gloves or loose a finger. . I'ts better to have a couple stitches in your thumb then to not have a thumb to get stitches in. And I don't care what kind of glove either. Even the flimsy nitral gloves can drag you in just enough to have a machine grab you,,,, and it's good by hand. Don't count on gloves to tear away. Your hand is far from totally ridged. You are not working with your girlfriend pushing your hand away that takes a half a second, you know. Even a relitvly slow 600 RPM chuck makes a COMPLETE revaluation in 100 milliseconds. Each jaw of a 3 jaw chuck goes by every 33mS. Trust me. You are NOT fast enough to pull your hand back if you knew it was coming; let alone getting surprised by an errant chip. If you can;t work without gloves and can't live with pulling splinters out of your delicate pinkies go play soccer or do something else as a hobby. Machine tools are not for you. NO GLOVES AROUND ROTATING MACHINERY! From the smallest hobby lathe making a ball point pen to a full bore production machine shop machining weldments weighing tons, never forget, Every machine tool you see wants to take a chunk out of you. - Like Kipling said. "Our touch has altered all things created. be humble when you crawl beneath our rods." He got the message and he was only a poet and not an experienced skilled tradesman. Don't let trying to prove me wrong cost you a body part,,,,or worse.
So you know carbide inserts often have minimum RPM or cut depth before it will give a good surface finish. If you go under that it looks like crap. The problem is as they are meant for CNC there is no way you can ever meet their RPM minimums on a manual lathe (we would need about 3000 or more RPM for a 1 inch bar stock on steel with a depth of cut of at least 1mm). So I try to buy finishing inserts that allows a shallower depth of cut but vast majority of the inserts out there need much higher feed and depth.
Hey Joe the very second that my accident happened on my lathe yesterday I thought of you in a millisecond. As it was happening I actually thought of your words. You always stress safety and I thought I was being safe. I got a long curl of my Nemesis 304 stainless sharp as a razor blade and I had my lung crooked pliers and try to swipe it away from my longitudinal handwheel it's so it wouldn't get wrapped around it. This is something that we all do hundreds of times a week. I thought I was being safe I can hardly even stopped shaking right now thinking about it. I'm sorry if this is an incoherent statement but the trauma that this caused me has really affected my life hopefully it'll go away really quick because I don't even want to look at that lathe right now....... Long story short this very thin curl probably 5000 somehow wrapped around two of my fingers at the very instant that the Chuck Jaws picked it up and reeled it in...... It felt like someone took a sledgehammer and hit me in the hand I screamed out and I was looking for my fingers on the floor. Luckily they were still attached but just..... My heart is actually racing right now I can hardly type. I was so shaken up I couldn't even make a phone call so I walked over to my tablet and message my girlfriend and she called the EMTs and they took me to the hospital it got about 20 stitches and two fingers I think 20 stitches I'd have to really look again. And I don't want too.... That very thin soft innocuous looking curl that you wouldn't think would do anything but break if the truck hit it was so sharp that it went all the way into my bone if it would have been just an eighth of an inch higher it would have went in between my Knuckles and taking my fingers off in a blink of an eye but instead the bone on so basically picture yourself taking a knife at the tips of your fingers and slicing down towards the palm of your hand and leaving great u-shaped flaps of skin hanging.. If I'm ever able to walk back on to that lathe and touch it I will never underestimate it again I consider myself lucky that I still have fingers and I learned this lesson unfortunately the hard way sorry for the in coherent babbling but I'm still Shook Up. All the viewers need to know if you think you're being safe you might not be because there are so many ways that this can happen. I don't even know how this happened to this very second of the morning. As I thought that I just would be safe using pliers and flipping that chip away it somehow hit my other hand anyway and there was not even time to react so please everyone be extra safe because even if you think you are things can happen if you get along curls shut the damn machine off if it's bothering you consider it a poisonous snake that you can't even move near because saving 30 seconds of your time is not worth the trauma that I went through and I'm going through right now. Jeff
Not until it actually happens to you, do you realize how fast and how serious it can happen. Blink and its too late. I can't stress safety enough because I have either seen it first hand, or had it happen to me. I am sorry for your encounter, but just be thankful it didn't take your hand and learn from the experience. I've got my fair share of stitches and remember every one.
@@joepie221 I sure as hell will not forget this anytime soon. I'm in such pain right now more than I was when it happened when you get hand or finger injuries they tend not to do too many stitches because cosmetically it doesn't matter that much especially to an old piece of gristle like me. But they gave me 20 of them you have to cut a lot of skin for 20 stitches on a finger it hurts like an SOB let me tell you I'm sure you know like you say. I hope everybody that reads this will think twice about taking shortcuts because it ain't worth it not even in the slightest. Someone needs to make a video maybe when I get better I'll do it take a brightly colored piece of string wrap it on the chuck and then let her rip to show how fast that sucker reels in! The feeling is really surprisingly weird again it felt like someone took a hammer to my fingers it didn't feel like being cut it all it felt like getting smacked with the hammer that's the only thing I can think of. Anyway thanks for the reply
Something like that happened to me a couple weeks ago, with a hand drill, no less. That 'snake' was getting a little long, but I ignored it until it hit my other hand. WOW! Fortunately, it came back together with a steri-strip, but it really opened my eyes to just how sharp those things are. Thank you for your sharing. T.W.
@@tdubveedub yeah they're amazingly Sharp my Nemesis is 304 stainless for some reason it always comes off like razor blades. Not only am I going to keep my hands even further away I'm going to concentrate on chip control a lot more
Thank you for sharing. While teaching I can preach safety for hours and barely get any response, true stories like this wakes people up and helps other realize the importance. And yeah, stainless steel can be difficult to deal with and chip control is an important part of it. A tip before you go back, call your tool supplier and tell him about your issues, what machine and job you have and ask for recommendations. If you're unsure put in the same data into an online calculator and see if it gives similar result (Sandvik Coromant has and probably all others of the major manufacturers). (If he can't give you good advice it is high time to change to another supplier!) I wish you a speedy recovery!
Joe, you could do one with some long, thin brass between centers and demonstrate harmonics. I find those especially fun :). Also, I remember seeing chatter induced with a spring tool for decorative purposes.
Professor Joe, excellent video, the best way to show how different setups and tool holding etc, cause terrible finish. Please bring us more great information.
Excellent demo Joe, lots of handy tips that will be applied on my small lathe. I've just ordered a steel wedge type QCTP which will help with the rigidity issues I've been having, coming from a cheap aluminium holder. I've been getting good surface finishes but issues with chatter when trying to take a deeper cut than around 0.005".
Awesome video...as a self taught hobby machinist you certainly took me down memory lane (nightmare)......thank you for the therapy and now I have better understanding of my learning curve which still continues today.....ATB
Joe, thanks for emphasizing those safety points! Getting sucked into a lathe, or mill, by a tie, or long hair, as you have seen, is a real danger! A 10-20 kg chuck, happily spinning over 1000 rpm, can make short work of scalp, teeth and facial features in much less than a heartbeat! And rings... Anyway, great to remind all of us, from time to time, of basic safety stuff, which can often be ignored, in the daily rush, where "it will only take a second..."
A few thoughts. Jaw engagement and the movement of worn chucks. If you think that may be an issue, an old standby to see if you have a gap get a can of spray Dykem and tighten onto your part and spray, give it a moment to set and open the jaws. you should see uniform areas that didn't get colored if it's going under the contact points. your jaw isn't grabbing there. that is reduced support. increases the chance of poor finish or in extreme cases parts discharging from the machine. (also great for when you cut soft jaws to see if you need to add a slight taper to get full engagement with the soft jaw because of the flex that is going to occur when you tighten down on a part) Here's an idea though, and this comes up because Yesterday I was at work, on the old bridgeport. Doesn't have any niceties. no DRO, just an old manual worn down machine. I made a pretty critical screw up on the last cut of the day. One that never should have happened, but it got me thinking. it's little mistakes like the one I made that could and will catch someone new to machining off gaurd. I'm not used to a machine quite that worn out. so what actually happened, I was cutting a relief (sort of like a large flat T-nut) but I was cutting the side reliefs. I have it set in the vice, making the cut against the positive Jaw, So all I should have to do is run my tool back, flit the part 180 degrees, and run again. Load the next, They have a very wide tolerance so it's fine. I got to the end of the day, started getting anxious to get the cut on that part done, enter a bad judgment call...I ran the first side, flipped the part, and went "I could just climb mill back across it and be done with it." Didn't think about the backlash in the tables Y axis. got a half inch into the cut, and who would have guessed (everyone) that the table kicked back. luckily. It was as simple of a fix as to reset and run it the way I should have. But Overlooking the backlash and not having the table resting against the halfnut in the direction the cutting pressure is going to be applied. That was a pretty large mistake. I usually run lathes. Mills are not my strongest area of machining. but I feel like addressing some of those gremlins that occur and will absolutely ruin your day could be beneficial to those with less experience (or even myself where mills aren't my strong point)
Really well demonstrated on what you shouldn't be doing Joe and I had to figure out just about everything you just showed a long time ago. There's a few other channels where I've seen most if not all the same mistakes being done unknowingly. About all I could add is if everything else is as rigid as you can make it then sometimes the material will still chatter simply because your into a natural harmonics situation for that materials length, diameter, part shape, tool shape or even sharpness and material type. Most times (but not always) upping the feed and/or lowering the rpm will change that harmonic enough to get what you want. Boring as most know is always tough to get a clean cut with a good surface finish if the bar extension is long enough. Tightly wrapping the bar with soft solder wire, a rubber band, surgical tubing, or even adding a few lumps of plumbers putty or kids plasticine can sometimes fix that as well. Anything that changes the natural harmonics of the tool and/or material will generally help. How and where the compound slide is positioned can make a large difference as well with a light weight machine. Even a gib adjustment can sometimes work. I'm sure you know all this anyway. But some viewers won't.
The other solution I've used for this, if the machine can run the spindle in reverse (unlike a monarch) if it can though, Mount a tool upside down in the holder and turn the part with the spindle turning up to the tool rather than turning down on to the tool. it can stop chatter in a natural harmonic situation like that. Used that trick on a clausing and a leblonde while running problem parts.
Hy Joe from the UK. I am an experienced beginner if you get my drift. Anyhow, have just subscribed as you are one of the few youtubers in machine shops I can actually listen to and therefore learn. Thankyou.
Excellent......well explained......so much great information. I’ll need to watch your video multiple times and practice. I’m as green as they get. . You’re a good teacher and I have lots of time to learn. Thanks Joe.
Flathead Ron's Garage >>> I’m an old beginner so I don’t have lots of time to learn. Lessons like this, concise, to the point and a model of clarity are exactly what I need.
Myself the same my friend. I’ll be 60 next month and I’m finding out my brain wants to learn. Feels good. Joe reproduced my bad turning exactly. And he’s right. Stinking mind reader he knew I needed this 😁
Ouch! I didn't turn down my ear buds when you did the nasty turn on that steel! Thanks for the information. Got my mini lathe set up to start trying my first turn this weekend. Still a bit of work to go on the Sheldon lathe before it's ready to go. I'm looking forward to learning, slow and steady. Thanks for all your advice.
Especially on my Atlas lathe, keeping the top half of the cross slide over the bottom half as much as possible helps as well has keeping the tool post (if using an Aloris type) above the compound helps the rigidity a lot. As with the tool bit hanging out too far, the cross slide and compound have a lot of flex on smaller, older lathes.
I think in another video you mentioned having the compound lined up with the edge of the cross slide for maximum support. I think it was your video anyway, but that might be another thing, to make sure the compound does not overhang the cross slide unless the cut requires it. I also had to adjust the gibs on my compound to get a better result. And the cross slide nut is worn down too.
I wish that I had seen this video when I started machining. Very clear. I wonder if the results would be better with ER collets, because they support the work evenly for the entire length of the collet, which C5 collets do not. Also, I was surprised to hear you describe yourself as "blue collar". I know that you work with your hands, but so do surgeons. There should be a new color collar for surgeons and expert machinists who are constantly problem solving while working.
Is there anything we should know to reduce chatter when turning between centers? I've got an Atlas 10" lathe and I'm trying to make my cuts nicer. I'm getting some tearing, ~.625 diameter material both mild and stainless using carbide at 500ish RPM. Tried a few depths as well. Feed rate at .003ish.
Excellent video on the topic! You made me feel stupid wen You mentioned the collet issue, never considered that effect. I have C5 and E164 collets in my lathes, they both grip for a very short length on large diameters and I noticed eccentricity issues after shfting the stock. Do You think double slotted ER type collets would be better in this respect? I was surprised as well by how well that large flat tool cut that flimsy brass. I have made several up to 20 mm form tools from Sandvik WKE45 that also cuts well in brass, I think keeping the top of the tool flat is what makes it work well. Perhaps that is one reason Your tool performed so well. Thanks You for taking Your time posting this!
Joe, I don't know if some one has mentioned it yet, but, you didnt mention " shear tool " as an option for glass like finish on soft metals, i.e. lead, alum, brass ... etc . I've only seen it mentioned on 2 maybe 3 other channels ... MR. Pete did an nice example of it, I wish I had known this approach before I got rid of my lathes ... Good video Joe ...
Lots of positive top rake helps with the finish on soft metals. I set up a lathe at work with a TFG style toolholder and special ordered the inserts with tops and nose radii lapped to a mirror finish.
Joe, Thanks sooooo much for the demo. I learned a ton of info. One question....I presume that a "lighter" lathe (i.e. SB 9 or Atlas 6) is going to have various "other" issues that might need to be addressed, just due to their lack of "beefiness" and ability to absorb some vibration and deflection. Can that be true? Thanks again for your dedication to the "beginner" machinists.
I started out turning electric motor commutators on a little 'hobby' lathe (IIRC it was a 9" So. Bend? too many years gone by...) I was warned not to develop the habit of leaning my hand on the tailstock when turning anything, because it could 'spring' the machine and turn a taper instead of a straight cylindrical feature.
Joe; I couldn't find the video where you talked about chip breakers, but I wanted to mention that I have seen some machinists who are pretty good, at a lot of things, but I have seen a lot of 'unbreakable' chips coming off their tools, and the hassles it causes, including some rough finishes, and danger to the camera operator ;-) Your videos are so 'chock full o' goodness' that I get a lot from going over them time and again! Thanks for all those hours of work and priceless tips & techniques!
i pood my pants watching that video. As a machinist i know what can happen first hand with those bad examples, but when you turned over half the diameter of the bar with that amount out of the chuck unsupported and it didnt jump over the tool, speechless. Sir you are one brave 'teacher'. Keep up the vids learn something new every one, thanks
I had that happen with my big lathe one time. I stomped on the brake / shut down bar down between the columns of the lathe pretty quick. I did not know what was happening, but there was a noise that did not sound right so I reacted. Fortunately little damage done. I was turning some round bar and there were multiple reasons that caused it to happen. Been a while but, these are the reasons I think it happened. Bar out too far from chuck, cutting tool out to far from holder, too much angle on top of cutting tool (I think) caused tool to dig in, too heavy of cut, and turning speed too fast. I am an amateur machinist, so those reasons are guesses. Before trying the cut again I looked at the bar and my set up, thought about it, changed the tool for another, reduced tool extension, slowed the turning speed a little, and set up a live center, then tried again. The cut was much better.
Hey Joe, I was taught that 90 percent of all lathe accidents are related to feed screws and to keep it off when not in use. Thanks for another great video
Thanks Joe, that info is very helpful. Alot of us own what we can afford = not so ridgid. Any help with dealing with ridgity issues is much appreciated. You mentioned wrapping work with tape, for worn chuck jaws. Would copper inserts accomplish the same result? Thanks again, Will
Thanks so much for doing this, it makes it clear why support matters. I'll need to look up videos on speeds & feeds, but it would be great if you could do one, or point to one you like.
Joe, QCTH - I have Multifix holders, which pull in a kind of splined sem-circle tool holder, against a matching spline on the body...very, very stable. You commented on the collet allowing some "sag" of the material, due to a short support area...the collet seems to be a 5C type, which, I think, does not support the material as well as the ER type? The very first cut had a really high-pitched squeal to it, which I'm going to guess was a combination of the length of material and the 'skinny' tool hanging out so far? It seemed to have both feed-rate artifacts, as well as quite fine chatter artifacts?
One of your best videos yet, thanks! I would love to learn about carbide inserts. How do you select cutters... Size, shape, material? On this video it would have been interesting to se if reversing the jaws on the 3 jaw chuck would make the cut worse... It will if your final comment is correct. Thanks again... Best videos on you tube! Terry
Our die shop machinists like Kennametal KC5010 for general purpose use. Works well on everything from aluminum to inconel. 80-degree diamond shaped inserts are good for most jobs. If you'll be doing fine finishes on non-ferrous material, a flat top triangular insert is good, like a TPG pattern.
Hi Love this channel. Always something to learn. I am setting up a shop and it seems like I should be able to make better lathe cutters with a belt grinder. Nobody does this as far as I can tell, but knife makers use them a lot. Seems more flexible and and easier to control. Am I off base? thanks greg
Hi Joe, I have been silently watching quite a few of your videos over the last few months. This one however stimulated quite a few questions. I am not a machinist, but do tinker with a desktop CNC machine, space constraints, and the idea to buy that was also inspired by your videos, amongst others, as well as a certain female machinist, lets not name names to be fair to all involved... Both of you are excellent, but I do learn a lot more from you, although I can not really apply most of it on a tiny machine taking only a 1/8 cutter at maximum :) Enough of that, my main question is you mentioned that feeds/speeds is optimum at close to nose radius of your cutter... can you elaborate on that a bit? also, maybe in context to CNC as well as milling/turning, and as relates to plastics like acrylic, as that is basically the hardest I can handle :) Thank you :)
I wonder how much of the surface finish woes are just the consequence of hobbyists trying to make things out of unknown scrap stock. There's certainly a lot to be said for the differences in alloy content or material stress with regards to how freely it machines.
Way back when I was in high school I flunked one semester of algebra then came back the next year and got an A in the class, just shows what a difference a teacher can make. You Joe are like the second teacher I had, thanks!
Thats a great compliment for me. Thank you very much.
Using your own valuable time.
Using your own stock.
Using electricity to run machine's
Then have to clean up after.
Just to share, makes you a great bloke Joe Pieczynski.
Thank you.
Joe, the value of SHOWING what goes wrong with improper techniques cannot be overstated. I've heard many UA-camrs lecture on this topic. However, seeing the resulting finishes and hearing the sounds the lathe makes creates a memory that is likely to return to the student's mind when they need it. Thank you so much for taking time to help us beginning hobbiests who have little opportunity to get any professional instruction or feedback in this CNC age.
this stuff helps guys like me a lot. I'm not a machinist by a long stretch. I use my machines to repair old stuff, to invent new stuff and come up with solutions to problems. I been blessed with a vision to see things in my head but lack the knowledge to get the best machining results when building out my vision. videos like these give me the tools to investigate where my machining problem is and helps me build up my machining skills. I really appreciate you taking your time to create these videos in a format than even an uneducated person like myself can understand. you are a great instructor. thanks again!
I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment and for watching.
I am in my 50's have self tout myself in wood working, mechanics, ect. all those years before U_TUBE. How many things I learned the hard way. Now I am self teaching myself in machining. If you only knew how many screw-up's you and Mr Pete, Abom, have saved me!!!!! Cant thank you enough for sharing your years of experience with all of us. I always try and let the add's run through so you get what ever they are giving you. Thanks Again
Very cool - liked the relationship between tool nose radius and feed rate. Never had that described before.
A very useful concept is that everything on metal cutting equipment, the tools, the spindle, the main castings and even the floor the machine occupies, is a spring. Everything you do is creating forces that cause the spring to flex (just a little in even the best cutting conditions). When one of these springs starts vibrating it can cause a harmonic that will start other "springs" in your set-up to start vibrating. Everything needs to be solid!!
I believe this to be true, sometimes you can stick a magnet, 1"x1"x2" or bigger, onto your tool to change the frequency of the harmonics to quiet things down.
For a hobbyists like me, that was invaluable information and demonstrate. Thank you.
Thanks Joe, your videos are incredibly helpful for a beginner, self taught, hobby machinist!
It’s so important to show why not to something rather than just discuss it. Thanks for taking the time to do this
I agree.
I would like to thank you Sir for your excellent videos regarding machining and topics associated with machining. I have watched literally hundreds of machining videos and I can honestly say that in my opinion they are the best available. One of the important features of your videos is the continued emphasis on safety. I worked in the construction and fabrication industries for many years and have seen the results when one is uninformed, foolish or inattentive when working around equipment. It can and will bite you very quickly if you don't have respect for it.
The other thing that I like about your videos is the wealth of useful information they contain. You go out of your way to offer up the "tricks of the trade" and mentor others in a straight forward no nonsense manner which gets the point across without confusing the viewer. This video offered up new insights to me along with confirming some of my suspicions about machining and finishes. Your other videos have all done the same whether it be trade mathematics, machine operation, or any other subject you chose to touch on. Kudos to your Sir and again, many thanks.
One question I would have for you is regarding another video I have viewed. ( ua-cam.com/video/gVF-pWfsaQ0/v-deo.html ) The finish on the piece is terrible and he uses what he calls a "shear" tool to clean it up. Have you ever seen this and if so, would you ever use it? I am curious about it and the grind and set up.
Single best 'basics' video I've seen!
Since chattering is a resonance phenomenon, surprising things can happen. For example, sometimes a heavier cut produces less chatter and vice versa, because resonant frequencies interact with everything in the setup. Great job, as usual, Joe. Thanks.
I've worked with education of advanced machining and all I can say is: GREAT demonstration and discussion! I'll be forwarding this to colleagues.
One small addition that I don't think was mentioned: Don't ignore these issues during rough cutting assuming they will go away with a finishing pass, they might get reduced but to some degree vibration issues during roughing effects the finishing (brass is rather forgiving with this).
And if someone wonders, everything here is applicable for CNC machines as well.
And yeah, I was surprised at the lack of vibration in the end as well.
Thank you.
Joe, thanks for reiterating that equipment can literally take your head/hand/whatever off instantly, otherwise make it an unrecognizable mess. I've probably commented on this before on your site, but safety is just too important to be left to chance.
Even today when I'm having someone do something, I emphasize that virtually nothing is so important that it can't be done safely.
I was working in PA several years ago, and at night signed up for a machine shop class at a local tech school to do something I enjoyed, having access to the shop.
Regardless of the experience or skill level of the students, the first night the instructor showed us around the room, describing its equipment, what it was supposed to be used for, and most importantly the builtin safety measures - kill switches on each type of machine, and kill switches around the wall with any one able to simultaneously kill power to every machine in the shop.
He told about one unlucky fellow whose pony tail got caught in a lathe. We never asked his fate, but it couldn't have been good.
Again, thanks for the excellent advice. And lots of other good info on how to use the machinery.
Brand new first-time lathe owner & operator here, and I already find that is invaluable information. Sincere thanks for sharing Joe!
There are a lot of good lathe videos on this channel. I hope I can earn a subscription. Thanks for watching.
@@joepie221 Definitely subscribed, and also love how safety conscious your shop is, I've worked in far too many places where it's just been joked about... until someone got seriously injured.
Joe, its not too long. Even for my short attention span. i enjoy your presentation of so many basic techniques. I have owned a lathe and a mill for over 40 years and still learn so much. You and your efforts are appreciated greatly.
Thank you.
Another type of QCTP is the Multifix or 40 position, I MUCH prefer these types. Very rigid and repeatable, any lathe I own gets a Multifix first thing. Great vids Joe, the young guys and us more "experienced" among us can learn a lot from JP. Dont forget getting that tool on center height...
Also may I say Joe. Really love the way you teach. There's a few channels I've watched. But don't want to say exactly who those are. But I have found even with asking a simple question or even giving my thanks & appreciation. I have never ounce got a reply from the uploader. Maybe because I'm not a machinist but just a qualified carpenter. Yes I know but my fondness for engineering has come from my grandfather who was a shipbuilder in Spain. Who sadly passed away a few yrs back. Whome I was very proud off.
But I always loved his engineering machinery. Strangely enough your character does remind me off my grandfather. Although your a lot younger. May I say. But I do love how you explain things to a Leyman such as myself trying to learn as much as possible and waiting eagerly to get my lathe up and running. I for one appriciate the time and effort you guys take to teach these great videos especially knowing it's all your free time. And a big thanks for all the support you give to everyone around the world who enjoys your videos.
Thank you very much for this comment. it is exactly this kind of feedback that fuels my fire and keeps me inspired. I am flattered. Thank you.
@@joepie221 no honestly joe your a great guy. I always find your explanation and your videos very professional. The way you explain things is just perfect. It's so appriciated thanks buddy. God bless you and your family.
Same to you and yours.
Would love to see a follow up video for stopping chatter on long work between centers, stuff like gun barrels, long drive shafts those kind of things. I've never really had follow rests or steady rests usage explained real well, and have had very little luck using them.
Everything you need to know to produce bad results .... and how to correct your errors. Thank you, Joe!
I was running a Bullard 56" VTL and the part I was machining required a 32 finish. The finish cut started out great but half way thru the cut I suddenly got some shatter. After hours of checking things to no avail and repeated cuts I finally realized the cause of the problem was the horizontal milling machine next to me. Every time he did a roughing pass with his 2" rougher bingo it showed up. No body believed me until I had somebody witness it.......love your videos
I was watching your "Making an Edge Finder" video, stopped and started reading the comments and saw this video on the right. Bad Turned Surface Finish, is just what I have been experiencing with my latest project.
I can't work with my 12x36 lathe, so am using my Maximat 7 machine to turn a 6 inch long bar of 1117 down to .625 diameter. I don't think there was any chatter, but the tearing and threading look of the cut is just what I experienced with the cuts. I have no gears to change the lead screw speed with this machine.
The tool was extended more than I like, but with the live center, I had no choice. Tool slide had to be almost parallel with the ways, tail stock ram extended too far, and only one speed for the carriage.
I tried several different cutting tools that came with a machinist tool box I bought and all had the same results. Finally ground a cutter with about 7° on either side, about 5° on top and a nose radius of about 1/6th inch. The surface cut was not the best, but it was acceptable for this project.
The threaded look and feel is still there, but now I know why.
Great well thought through instructions. Should be a requirement to watch for anybody just starting out using a lathe. You are a great teacher.
Thank you.
Thanks for risking your material, time and tooling to bring us these videos.
You are a fantastic teacher Joe. Thankyou for all the tine you spend teaching...
I've actually seen the flexing problem firsthand on my mini lathe. Whenever I turn really small parts like punches, I often have to do it without tailstock support. Sometimes the material flexes so much that I might start a cut turning at a specific diameter, and the tool will suddenly engage with the material and make these huge deep wide divots. or it'll do the opposite and suddenly flex and glide over, making these ridges in the part. also lots of tearing lol.
Great video Joe. I know how hard it must be to demonstrate failures when you spend your career doing everything possible to avoid them. Even harder when you have your machines well maintained and adjusted. Thanks.
Wow, a golden nugget of surface finish info wrapped in one video. Your deliberate and rational process of creating the problems and trouble shooting them away in a logical controlled way makes things extra fascinating. Thanks.
Great "how to do it wrong" video. I remember making most of these mistakes when I first started out...even being distracted by the resonance in chatter (I'm a physicist..heh, that doesn't make you a machinist.) of a big piece of brass pipe, when I should have just stopped it as you did somewhat after 28 min - instead, the pipe climbed the tool, flew by my head going *very fast*...and I learned something I'll never forget!
Thanks Joe. Boy did I need this two years ago when I started. This is the sort of basics we all need to be reminded of.
Thanks Joe! Another video with great advise. I cought on the earlier mistakes and was waiting for you to let us know what went wrong, but never thought you'd actually point out the very best solution to them. Especially the one with the v block. You were like "there is no solution for the vise when having variations on your part... And then "boom!"🤯 V block!!! Thanks again brother!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome demonstration of how and why things happen. Nothing beats seeing it happen first hand to drive the points home!
I'm still very new to hobby machining: this is one of the most helpful videos that I've seen. It explains why some of my practice cuts have ended up looking so dreadful! Thank you for taking the time to share this, it's much appreciated.
Thanks you. You have to have good core skills, or ya swim upstream waaaaaaay too long. Glad you enjoyed it.
Really enjoyed the practical, hands on demonstration of the impact of various chucking and tooling decisions. Most helpful!
More terrific demos Joe - your time and effort making these videos is greatly appreciated. As is plain, there are so many factors involved. QED! :)
Joe, Brilliant, as ever !
Could I mention excessive clearance in slide ways, or headstock bearings as worthy of consideration in smaller machines, especially model maker’s lathes, which often have plain bearings for the headstock spindle.
I don’t suppose that is something that you’ll have to worry about with your Colchester !
Remember that, in all machining operations, we are tearing material from the surface of our component, and the geometry of the tool cutting face is designed to open up a shear plane just in front of the tip : I think that the angle, and height, of the top surface of the tool is thus very important to ensure that the shear plane is running in the right direction.
My old lecturer in production engineering at college always used to say that our job is to make as much swarf, as fast as possible, because the customer only buys what’s left !
Thanks for this great info. I'm not a real machinist, I call myself a "shade tree machinist.' Speeds and feeds as well as DOC have always been a mystery to me. This video, as with all your others, has been a tremendous help.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, I have a great deal of respect for your expertise but this was by far the best learning experience I have had with you. Thanks Joe.
Glad to help
Excellent info for a novice like me, I had chatter in everything. Purchased anti vibration machine mounts and half went away. I think I can improve from where I am with some of your advice.
Good job showing what we take for granted !
ATB, Robin
The hammered finished was the first finish I "learned". ;) Great video and, like most of your videos, one that wished I'd seen much earlier.
Great video. Thanks. It would be great to have the same scenario, but with carbide inserts and how they are effected by chatter.
I've been working in the trade for 32 years straight out of trade school. I've been an apprentice, a moldmaker and for the past 5 years have run citizen swiss turning machines. I just want to say Joe i watch your show because i like the way you present and teach lessons in machining. I wish my trade school teacher was as direct and complete as you are. I occasionally learn something myself. Good job Joe
Thank you for the compliment.
Where you discussed the collet and sag of material... It would have taken me forever to figure that out. What you say makes total sense. Thanks for another great video.
Joe. Great video. Been learning "slowly" on my own, and really appreciate this one. Thanks, Bill.
Nice video,addresses problems we have all encountered .Chatter and harmonics/ noise can be bothersome and always affect the finish
This was one of the most informative videos I've seen in a while. I wish there was more content on stuff like this for lathe and mill. Being a student at a technical college I only get about 5 hours a week around these machines and the instructor doesn't have time to show us nuances like this to improve our skills. We are busy making things from blueprints to be graded, and reading about something I did wrong, like finish, 3 weeks later after doing it doesn't help very much. Thanks for the instruction.
Glad to help.
Great video - thanks.
Suggestion for a follow-up: grind a tool bit badly and show how it affects finish. By "badly", I mean with the wrong relief and rake angles.
19:00 so this is the technique I need to use when I want my scale model parts to have a "hammered" finish?
No joke, it seems like you could dial in a certain texture if you wanted a part to look cast or worn. Hit it with the right mix or red and brown to make a convincing old rusty iron piece.
It would be a great skill to be able to control that. I can see the ornamental use.
Very good demo on how it works !
Great video. I learned a lot. One thing I learned is that good machining is important. My lathe has a problem that the chisel can move down when under (not so much) pressure making the chatter terrible.
Hey Joe, by far one of the best video's I've seen! Thank you so much for taking the time to share.
Hi Joe, that's easily one of the best machining videos I have seen so far. I'm at my first steps with a tiny, 64 years old lathe. Basically, you have made a video of all mistakes I have been doing so far :-)
And at the same time you've explained how to avoid all that mess.
I highly recommend this lesson to all newbies like me! Subscribed.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for helping me reach my 2020 goal of 100K subs.
Thanks for making the content you produce. My father has been a tool and die maker for pretty much as long as I’ve been alive, so I’ve learned a thing or two from him, but I’m also still learning on my own. I learn twice as fast visually, so youtube is often where I seek knowledge. I already knew most of what this was going to cover, but I watched anyway and still ended up learning some things. I now have access to a lathe whenever I want, so I’ve begun to further my knowledge and take it beyond where it’s ever been since my lathe isn’t imaginary anymore. Your channel is part of that journey. I’ve learned a surprising amount from you already and I’ve barely scratched the surface of your content. I also appreciate the refreshers on things I once learned but forgot, and watching how you set up and perform certain tasks, everyone is different in their methods and sometimes you see something done different and have a lightbulb moment of your own. Thanks for starting this off with safety tips, I don’t see enough of that on UA-cam for the new guys and hobbyists who may have never learned it. Thankfully I’ve never witnessed any accidents, nor had any significant ones of my own, but I remember my dad teaching me about machine safety at a young age. Rotating objects + loose clothing, hair, or jewelry = a bad day. Goes for small stuff like angle grinders and Dremel tools as well as their even more powerful big siblings like lathes, mills, pedestal grinders, etc. but some people aren’t fortunate enough to learn that before they become the lesson. I think some people also grossly underestimate how much torque even their little hobby lathe can have via gear reduction, heck even a handheld cordless drill, let alone a ~3HP machine like mine, and that’s not even a large high powered machine compared to some. Only takes one oops or moment of overconfidence, and your life could be altered in a blink.
Both of you guys forgot the MOST important safety rule. Even more important then glasses. Loose the gloves or loose a finger. . I'ts better to have a couple stitches in your thumb then to not have a thumb to get stitches in. And I don't care what kind of glove either. Even the flimsy nitral gloves can drag you in just enough to have a machine grab you,,,, and it's good by hand. Don't count on gloves to tear away. Your hand is far from totally ridged.
You are not working with your girlfriend pushing your hand away that takes a half a second, you know. Even a relitvly slow 600 RPM chuck makes a COMPLETE revaluation in 100 milliseconds. Each jaw of a 3 jaw chuck goes by every 33mS. Trust me. You are NOT fast enough to pull your hand back if you knew it was coming; let alone getting surprised by an errant chip. If you can;t work without gloves and can't live with pulling splinters out of your delicate pinkies go play soccer or do something else as a hobby. Machine tools are not for you. NO GLOVES AROUND ROTATING MACHINERY!
From the smallest hobby lathe making a ball point pen to a full bore production machine shop machining weldments weighing tons, never forget, Every machine tool you see wants to take a chunk out of you. - Like Kipling said. "Our touch has altered all things created. be humble when you crawl beneath our rods." He got the message and he was only a poet and not an experienced skilled tradesman. Don't let trying to prove me wrong cost you a body part,,,,or worse.
So you know carbide inserts often have minimum RPM or cut depth before it will give a good surface finish. If you go under that it looks like crap. The problem is as they are meant for CNC there is no way you can ever meet their RPM minimums on a manual lathe (we would need about 3000 or more RPM for a 1 inch bar stock on steel with a depth of cut of at least 1mm). So I try to buy finishing inserts that allows a shallower depth of cut but vast majority of the inserts out there need much higher feed and depth.
Hey Joe the very second that my accident happened on my lathe yesterday I thought of you in a millisecond. As it was happening I actually thought of your words. You always stress safety and I thought I was being safe. I got a long curl of my Nemesis 304 stainless sharp as a razor blade and I had my lung crooked pliers and try to swipe it away from my longitudinal handwheel it's so it wouldn't get wrapped around it. This is something that we all do hundreds of times a week. I thought I was being safe I can hardly even stopped shaking right now thinking about it. I'm sorry if this is an incoherent statement but the trauma that this caused me has really affected my life hopefully it'll go away really quick because I don't even want to look at that lathe right now.......
Long story short this very thin curl probably 5000 somehow wrapped around two of my fingers at the very instant that the Chuck Jaws picked it up and reeled it in...... It felt like someone took a sledgehammer and hit me in the hand I screamed out and I was looking for my fingers on the floor. Luckily they were still attached but just..... My heart is actually racing right now I can hardly type. I was so shaken up I couldn't even make a phone call so I walked over to my tablet and message my girlfriend and she called the EMTs and they took me to the hospital it got about 20 stitches and two fingers I think 20 stitches I'd have to really look again. And I don't want too.... That very thin soft innocuous looking curl that you wouldn't think would do anything but break if the truck hit it was so sharp that it went all the way into my bone if it would have been just an eighth of an inch higher it would have went in between my Knuckles and taking my fingers off in a blink of an eye but instead the bone on so basically picture yourself taking a knife at the tips of your fingers and slicing down towards the palm of your hand and leaving great u-shaped flaps of skin hanging..
If I'm ever able to walk back on to that lathe and touch it I will never underestimate it again I consider myself lucky that I still have fingers and I learned this lesson unfortunately the hard way sorry for the in coherent babbling but I'm still Shook Up. All the viewers need to know if you think you're being safe you might not be because there are so many ways that this can happen. I don't even know how this happened to this very second of the morning. As I thought that I just would be safe using pliers and flipping that chip away it somehow hit my other hand anyway and there was not even time to react so please everyone be extra safe because even if you think you are things can happen if you get along curls shut the damn machine off if it's bothering you consider it a poisonous snake that you can't even move near because saving 30 seconds of your time is not worth the trauma that I went through and I'm going through right now.
Jeff
Not until it actually happens to you, do you realize how fast and how serious it can happen. Blink and its too late. I can't stress safety enough because I have either seen it first hand, or had it happen to me. I am sorry for your encounter, but just be thankful it didn't take your hand and learn from the experience. I've got my fair share of stitches and remember every one.
@@joepie221 I sure as hell will not forget this anytime soon. I'm in such pain right now more than I was when it happened when you get hand or finger injuries they tend not to do too many stitches because cosmetically it doesn't matter that much especially to an old piece of gristle like me. But they gave me 20 of them you have to cut a lot of skin for 20 stitches on a finger it hurts like an SOB let me tell you I'm sure you know like you say.
I hope everybody that reads this will think twice about taking shortcuts because it ain't worth it not even in the slightest. Someone needs to make a video maybe when I get better I'll do it take a brightly colored piece of string wrap it on the chuck and then let her rip to show how fast that sucker reels in! The feeling is really surprisingly weird again it felt like someone took a hammer to my fingers it didn't feel like being cut it all it felt like getting smacked with the hammer that's the only thing I can think of.
Anyway thanks for the reply
Something like that happened to me a couple weeks ago, with a hand drill, no less. That 'snake' was getting a little long, but I ignored it until it hit my other hand. WOW! Fortunately, it came back together with a steri-strip, but it really opened my eyes to just how sharp those things are. Thank you for your sharing.
T.W.
@@tdubveedub yeah they're amazingly Sharp my Nemesis is 304 stainless for some reason it always comes off like razor blades. Not only am I going to keep my hands even further away I'm going to concentrate on chip control a lot more
Thank you for sharing. While teaching I can preach safety for hours and barely get any response, true stories like this wakes people up and helps other realize the importance.
And yeah, stainless steel can be difficult to deal with and chip control is an important part of it.
A tip before you go back, call your tool supplier and tell him about your issues, what machine and job you have and ask for recommendations. If you're unsure put in the same data into an online calculator and see if it gives similar result (Sandvik Coromant has and probably all others of the major manufacturers). (If he can't give you good advice it is high time to change to another supplier!)
I wish you a speedy recovery!
Joe, you could do one with some long, thin brass between centers and demonstrate harmonics. I find those especially fun :).
Also, I remember seeing chatter induced with a spring tool for decorative purposes.
Professor Joe, excellent video, the best way to show how different setups and tool holding etc, cause terrible finish.
Please bring us more great information.
Thanks Joe, this video will help a lot of guys!!! Thanks for what you do.
Excellent demo Joe, lots of handy tips that will be applied on my small lathe. I've just ordered a steel wedge type QCTP which will help with the rigidity issues I've been having, coming from a cheap aluminium holder. I've been getting good surface finishes but issues with chatter when trying to take a deeper cut than around 0.005".
Excellent tutorial again Joe. Invaluable to a ‘newbie’ like me 👍😀
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video...as a self taught hobby machinist you certainly took me down memory lane (nightmare)......thank you for the therapy and now I have better understanding of my learning curve which still continues today.....ATB
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by.
Joe, thanks for emphasizing those safety points! Getting sucked into a lathe, or mill, by a tie, or long hair, as you have seen, is a real danger! A 10-20 kg chuck, happily spinning over 1000 rpm, can make short work of scalp, teeth and facial features in much less than a heartbeat! And rings...
Anyway, great to remind all of us, from time to time, of basic safety stuff, which can often be ignored, in the daily rush, where "it will only take a second..."
Joe. You have incredibly informative videos and I truly appreciate the work you put in for these.
Glad you like them!
Nose radius vs feed….re-view for me and an understanding of recent tool insert testing on my lathe….now back to testing of the issues I found/created
Good luck Chuck. Call me if ya have problems.
Another great video Joe. Done a lot of brass from bar feeder. Brass is a skipping rope. Only brass dose that.
I learned a lot about the tool nose radius. Thank you so much. Awesome post. Keep them coming.
A few thoughts. Jaw engagement and the movement of worn chucks. If you think that may be an issue, an old standby to see if you have a gap get a can of spray Dykem and tighten onto your part and spray, give it a moment to set and open the jaws. you should see uniform areas that didn't get colored if it's going under the contact points. your jaw isn't grabbing there. that is reduced support. increases the chance of poor finish or in extreme cases parts discharging from the machine. (also great for when you cut soft jaws to see if you need to add a slight taper to get full engagement with the soft jaw because of the flex that is going to occur when you tighten down on a part)
Here's an idea though, and this comes up because Yesterday I was at work, on the old bridgeport. Doesn't have any niceties. no DRO, just an old manual worn down machine. I made a pretty critical screw up on the last cut of the day. One that never should have happened, but it got me thinking. it's little mistakes like the one I made that could and will catch someone new to machining off gaurd. I'm not used to a machine quite that worn out. so what actually happened, I was cutting a relief (sort of like a large flat T-nut) but I was cutting the side reliefs. I have it set in the vice, making the cut against the positive Jaw, So all I should have to do is run my tool back, flit the part 180 degrees, and run again. Load the next, They have a very wide tolerance so it's fine. I got to the end of the day, started getting anxious to get the cut on that part done, enter a bad judgment call...I ran the first side, flipped the part, and went "I could just climb mill back across it and be done with it." Didn't think about the backlash in the tables Y axis. got a half inch into the cut, and who would have guessed (everyone) that the table kicked back. luckily. It was as simple of a fix as to reset and run it the way I should have. But Overlooking the backlash and not having the table resting against the halfnut in the direction the cutting pressure is going to be applied. That was a pretty large mistake. I usually run lathes. Mills are not my strongest area of machining. but I feel like addressing some of those gremlins that occur and will absolutely ruin your day could be beneficial to those with less experience (or even myself where mills aren't my strong point)
Really well demonstrated on what you shouldn't be doing Joe and I had to figure out just about everything you just showed a long time ago. There's a few other channels where I've seen most if not all the same mistakes being done unknowingly. About all I could add is if everything else is as rigid as you can make it then sometimes the material will still chatter simply because your into a natural harmonics situation for that materials length, diameter, part shape, tool shape or even sharpness and material type. Most times (but not always) upping the feed and/or lowering the rpm will change that harmonic enough to get what you want. Boring as most know is always tough to get a clean cut with a good surface finish if the bar extension is long enough. Tightly wrapping the bar with soft solder wire, a rubber band, surgical tubing, or even adding a few lumps of plumbers putty or kids plasticine can sometimes fix that as well. Anything that changes the natural harmonics of the tool and/or material will generally help. How and where the compound slide is positioned can make a large difference as well with a light weight machine. Even a gib adjustment can sometimes work. I'm sure you know all this anyway. But some viewers won't.
I've used clay and rubber bands on thin wall tubing for boring operations. It works well.
The other solution I've used for this, if the machine can run the spindle in reverse (unlike a monarch) if it can though, Mount a tool upside down in the holder and turn the part with the spindle turning up to the tool rather than turning down on to the tool. it can stop chatter in a natural harmonic situation like that. Used that trick on a clausing and a leblonde while running problem parts.
Many thanks Charles, never thought of that one. Now all I need i to remember that one. :-)
Hy Joe from the UK. I am an experienced beginner if you get my drift. Anyhow, have just subscribed as you are one of the few youtubers in machine shops I can actually listen to and therefore learn. Thankyou.
Thank you.
Excellent......well explained......so much great information. I’ll need to watch your video multiple times and practice. I’m as green as they get. . You’re a good teacher and I have lots of time to learn. Thanks Joe.
Flathead Ron's Garage >>> I’m an old beginner so I don’t have lots of time to learn. Lessons like this, concise, to the point and a model of clarity are exactly what I need.
Myself the same my friend. I’ll be 60 next month and I’m finding out my brain wants to learn. Feels good. Joe reproduced my bad turning exactly. And he’s right. Stinking mind reader he knew I needed this 😁
Ouch! I didn't turn down my ear buds when you did the nasty turn on that steel! Thanks for the information. Got my mini lathe set up to start trying my first turn this weekend. Still a bit of work to go on the Sheldon lathe before it's ready to go. I'm looking forward to learning, slow and steady. Thanks for all your advice.
Especially on my Atlas lathe, keeping the top half of the cross slide over the bottom half as much as possible helps as well has keeping the tool post (if using an Aloris type) above the compound helps the rigidity a lot. As with the tool bit hanging out too far, the cross slide and compound have a lot of flex on smaller, older lathes.
Thanks Joe, for some great comment.
I think in another video you mentioned having the compound lined up with the edge of the cross slide for maximum support. I think it was your video anyway, but that might be another thing, to make sure the compound does not overhang the cross slide unless the cut requires it. I also had to adjust the gibs on my compound to get a better result. And the cross slide nut is worn down too.
Excellent, informative video, as always. Thank you.
I wish that I had seen this video when I started machining. Very clear. I wonder if the results would be better with ER collets, because they support the work evenly for the entire length of the collet, which C5 collets do not. Also, I was surprised to hear you describe yourself as "blue collar". I know that you work with your hands, but so do surgeons. There should be a new color collar for surgeons and expert machinists who are constantly problem solving while working.
I like that thought. Maybe sky blue. A mix of white and blue. You make an excellent point.
Nightmares ! An old lesson relearned. Wow. What a series of ouches.
It can be frustrating early on.
Is there anything we should know to reduce chatter when turning between centers? I've got an Atlas 10" lathe and I'm trying to make my cuts nicer. I'm getting some tearing, ~.625 diameter material both mild and stainless using carbide at 500ish RPM. Tried a few depths as well. Feed rate at .003ish.
Excellent video on the topic!
You made me feel stupid wen You mentioned the collet issue, never considered that effect. I have C5 and E164 collets in my lathes, they both grip for a very short length on large diameters and I noticed eccentricity issues after shfting the stock. Do You think double slotted ER type collets would be better in this respect?
I was surprised as well by how well that large flat tool cut that flimsy brass. I have made several up to 20 mm form tools from Sandvik WKE45 that also cuts well in brass, I think keeping the top of the tool flat is what makes it work well. Perhaps that is one reason Your tool performed so well.
Thanks You for taking Your time posting this!
Thanks for watching.
Another great job of teaching. I have the same lathe. Do you have it secured to the floor.
No. It sits on 1" thick machine mount neoprene blocks with aluminum plates on them.
Joe, I don't know if some one has mentioned it yet, but, you didnt mention " shear tool " as an option for glass like finish on soft metals, i.e. lead, alum, brass ... etc . I've only seen it mentioned on 2 maybe 3 other channels ... MR. Pete did an nice example of it, I wish I had known this approach before I got rid of my lathes ... Good video Joe ...
Lots of positive top rake helps with the finish on soft metals. I set up a lathe at work with a TFG style toolholder and special ordered the inserts with tops and nose radii lapped to a mirror finish.
Joe, Thanks sooooo much for the demo. I learned a ton of info. One question....I presume that a "lighter" lathe (i.e. SB 9 or Atlas 6) is going to have various "other" issues that might need to be addressed, just due to their lack of "beefiness" and ability to absorb some vibration and deflection. Can that be true? Thanks again for your dedication to the "beginner" machinists.
Absolutely. Smaller machines are not as rigid and do have limits. You'll know when you hit one.
I started out turning electric motor commutators on a little 'hobby' lathe (IIRC it was a 9" So. Bend? too many years gone by...)
I was warned not to develop the habit of leaning my hand on the tailstock when turning anything, because it could 'spring' the machine and turn a taper instead of a straight cylindrical feature.
Joe; I couldn't find the video where you talked about chip breakers, but I wanted to mention that I have seen some machinists who are pretty good, at a lot of things, but I have seen a lot of 'unbreakable' chips coming off their tools, and the hassles it causes, including some rough finishes, and danger to the camera operator ;-) Your videos are so 'chock full o' goodness' that I get a lot from going over them time and again! Thanks for all those hours of work and priceless tips & techniques!
Thank you. I think the chip breakers were in the C's and 6's video.
Yes, and I could not find that one in your video list here... but I did remember it ;-)
i pood my pants watching that video. As a machinist i know what can happen first hand with those bad examples, but when you turned over half the diameter of the bar with that amount out of the chuck unsupported and it didnt jump over the tool, speechless. Sir you are one brave 'teacher'. Keep up the vids learn something new every one, thanks
I knew what to expect and was ready to back off. that can go bad fast.
I had that happen with my big lathe one time. I stomped on the brake / shut down bar down between the columns of the lathe pretty quick. I did not know what was happening, but there was a noise that did not sound right so I reacted.
Fortunately little damage done. I was turning some round bar and there were multiple reasons that caused it to happen.
Been a while but, these are the reasons I think it happened. Bar out too far from chuck, cutting tool out to far from holder, too much angle on top of cutting tool (I think) caused tool to dig in, too heavy of cut, and turning speed too fast.
I am an amateur machinist, so those reasons are guesses.
Before trying the cut again I looked at the bar and my set up, thought about it, changed the tool for another, reduced tool extension, slowed the turning speed a little, and set up a live center, then tried again. The cut was much better.
Hey Joe, I was taught that 90 percent of all lathe accidents are related to feed screws and to keep it off when not in use. Thanks for another great video
Thanks Joe, that info is very helpful. Alot of us own what we can afford = not so ridgid. Any help with dealing with ridgity issues is much appreciated. You mentioned wrapping work with tape, for worn chuck jaws. Would copper inserts accomplish the same result? Thanks again, Will
Perfect and very well explained cheers Joe
I wish this video had been out when I was first starting, so much great information. Still, it was a great watch.
Thanks so much for doing this, it makes it clear why support matters.
I'll need to look up videos on speeds & feeds, but it would be great if you could do one, or point to one you like.
another great show and tell from prof joe. thank you
Good demo, can't agree more, rigidity, rigidity, rigidity.
Joe, QCTH - I have Multifix holders, which pull in a kind of splined sem-circle tool holder, against a matching spline on the body...very, very stable.
You commented on the collet allowing some "sag" of the material, due to a short support area...the collet seems to be a 5C type, which, I think, does not support the material as well as the ER type?
The very first cut had a really high-pitched squeal to it, which I'm going to guess was a combination of the length of material and the 'skinny' tool hanging out so far? It seemed to have both feed-rate artifacts, as well as quite fine chatter artifacts?
One of your best videos yet, thanks!
I would love to learn about carbide inserts. How do you select cutters... Size, shape, material?
On this video it would have been interesting to se if reversing the jaws on the 3 jaw chuck would make the cut worse... It will if your final comment is correct.
Thanks again... Best videos on you tube!
Terry
Our die shop machinists like Kennametal KC5010 for general purpose use. Works well on everything from aluminum to inconel. 80-degree diamond shaped inserts are good for most jobs. If you'll be doing fine finishes on non-ferrous material, a flat top triangular insert is good, like a TPG pattern.
Hi
Love this channel. Always something to learn. I am setting up a shop and it seems like I should be able to make better lathe cutters with a belt grinder. Nobody does this as far as I can tell, but knife makers use them a lot. Seems more flexible and and easier to control. Am I off base?
thanks
greg
No. It should work, but make sure the belt is very fine for the final touch up. Rough surfaces trap softer material and may not perform as well.
Great video on some beginner tips!
Like the late great Vince Lombardi said to his team.....Gentlemen, this is a football. Basics are good.
Lessons learned. Thanks Joe 👍🏻
You bet
Hi Joe,
I have been silently watching quite a few of your videos over the last few months. This one however stimulated quite a few questions. I am not a machinist, but do tinker with a desktop CNC machine, space constraints, and the idea to buy that was also inspired by your videos, amongst others, as well as a certain female machinist, lets not name names to be fair to all involved... Both of you are excellent, but I do learn a lot more from you, although I can not really apply most of it on a tiny machine taking only a 1/8 cutter at maximum :) Enough of that, my main question is you mentioned that feeds/speeds is optimum at close to nose radius of your cutter... can you elaborate on that a bit? also, maybe in context to CNC as well as milling/turning, and as relates to plastics like acrylic, as that is basically the hardest I can handle :)
Thank you :)
I wonder how much of the surface finish woes are just the consequence of hobbyists trying to make things out of unknown scrap stock. There's certainly a lot to be said for the differences in alloy content or material stress with regards to how freely it machines.
True, but having a grasp on the basics is a good place to start. From there, its just RPM and cutter toughness.