Thanks for getting the word out. I have kept a can of this stuff in my workshop for 20 years and I try to tell people about things like this but you having an audience and this is a great PSA with clear explanation and camerawork!
I have used Deoxit on audio components many times. I have been repairing office machines like copiers and printers for 39 years. I have had many successful repairs just using deoxit on connectors.
Ooh, almost! This vid was suggested by UA-cam and since I have a scratchy volume pot in my Stratocaster I thought “perfect” timing to view this vid. But alas, you did not show what I Really needed to see: the act of spraying the pot. I’ll keep searching , and good luck.
Sir your timing and knowledge are amazing. Deoxit is the product I am looking for. I inherited my brother's system. Purchased in Taiwan 1969. Sansui receiver!! Thank you.
FWIW: I have been fixing decade resistor boxes, and the stuff seems to work it's magic after DAYS, not minutes. The nature of what I'm doing requires detailed records and testing down to milliohms. There's no question that devices I shelved and returned to days or weeks later have IMPROVED measurements after the DeoxIT treatment.
Just yesterday I finished cleaning and re-lubricating 22 Faders and 2 potentiometers on my 1978 Soundcraftsmen PE2217 Preamp - Equalizer. Many of the Faders were intermittent, and all of them were tough to move due to the lubricant having dried and hardened after 45 years, and one potentiometer was also intermittent. It took some time, but they are all working properly after blasting them with Deoxit. I then had to lubricate the 22 Faders with a silicon lubricant. Now all is well, and the Faders slide better than I can recall before.
*DO* *NOT* *USE* Deoxit D5 (Red can) in a pot. Over time it will ruin the pot. *USE* *Deoxit* *F5* Pots work by using a carbon slide surface as a variable resistor. As the slide contact moves along this carbon surface, it increases and decreases the resistance. A volume pot is a variable resistor. Deoxit D5 will destroy that carbon slide surface over time. Especially if you use a lot of it. *USE* *Deoxit* *F5* and don't spray it where you have it dripping out of the component. You only need a quick burt of it. You immediately turn the pot to work the cleaner into it.
My dad's old pioneer sx5 receiver had the same problem and I did that too. I had to continue to do it every 6 months or so because some scratching would come back, but each application improved things. Eventually it will be completely gone for good.
I own three Sansui components: G-7500 G-9000 AU-D11ii All three can benefit from a can of Deoxit D5. There isn't any static in either one one of the three volume controls. However, the balance and the tone controls could use some Deoxing. Appreciate your videos. Thx!
@@jamiesmith6838 The "5" in D5 or F5 means 5% lubricant and the rest is a cleaning/deoxit solution (different composition for green/red). Ideally, if you have a good access to a fader/pot, you may want to follow up bit later with F100 (all lubricant), but often F5 might be enough. Never try to spray F5 through the shaft hole in the front, as you will removed thick lubricant on it and make the shaft more wobbly.
thanks for this video! i had the same problem with my realistic receiver, one channel didnt work at all and the volume knob when turned would crackle. i might try this out instead of sending it to be repaired.
I have a 1981 Panasonic RA-6500 am/fm cassette deck. I was having the same issues with the volume control that crackling sound and the treble control the same thing I'm keeping my fingers crossed this will solve the problem. I just purchased a can of this deoxit.
That contact cleaner can cause problems with carbon film variable resistors and shouldn't be used can cause the carbon to separate from the body you need the one 5f design for these pots
It's some kind of carbon oxide and with DeoxIT you are deoxidizing that film, literally destroying it. Edit: DeoxIT Fader F5 green bottle is safe on carbon tracks.
Use Deoxit Fader green bottle for pots. You will destroy your carbon track with the red bottle. It will work fine for a while with the red one, but that's not the solution long term and you might end up having to replace these pots due to chemical damage from the spray.
Very true. I'm seeing tons of people on UA-cam swearing by it. I've been building, playing and working on guitars and electronics for more than 35 years.
My Nikko has been doing that on and off for years! I have a sta 4030 and everytime I've taken it to be fixed, within one to two years it's the same problem all over again. I'm even on a second set of vintage speakers with new cables. I might try this as well, but man this has been frustrating over owning this for 16 years.
Just a suggestion be careful with the deoxit on the rotary controls it can destroy the carbon I recommend CRC 226 a lot of experience technicians know about the accident on potentiometers can ruin them just thought I'd make a comment have a great day
Absolutely true. If you're going to use Deoxit, use the Deoxit in the green can. It's for faders and pots where it doesn't destroy the carbon track/slide surface in the pot
According to the Deoxit folks you should be using F5 Fader on your pots, not D5. Apparently D5 will eventually destroy the carbon in the pots. D5 is for switches and such that are all metal.
QUESTION: Aren't you supposed to put the straw into the small hole on the volume pot and then spray? I'm about to try this in the near future. Maybe that's what you did do..I'm not sure. How else would the Deoxit get into the housing of the volume pot?
Nice video and receiver. Would Deoxit work when one of the two channels when I turn on the receiver cuts off and goes back on for a while I fumble with one knob and another until the channel stays on? When this happens, the speaker makes noises as in your video, only worse. In my case, the watt metre tells me that there is little or no no power going to that channel. Could it be I need to get one or more new capacitors installed? Is that an expensive thing to have done? Thank you.
@@hacatan24 The red one is for metal on metal contacts. Fader green is safe on a carbon oxide track that most of these old pots use. I don't think I have to describe for you to know what happens when you DeoxIT carbon oxide;). Someone here in other comment described that he had to reapply it every 6 months and eventually these pots stopped working for him. Now he has to replace them. Many of these old pots are hard to find these days and can be rather expensive. Replacing them can be quite tedious as well. Much easier is to use a proper cleaner. Don't take my word for it;): ua-cam.com/video/0ADYRx2jQSE/v-deo.html
Do not spray it down the shaft. You are removing the special lubrication for it and it will not be as tight anymore. You are supposed to spray it from the back you never used the red D5 version. Use the green Fader F5 for pots.
Yes get the boards nice and soaked. Spray everywhere. Over time the fiber expansion will tighten the connections and make a big improvement in sound. 🙈 just don’t do it.
NEVER put WD-40 in a pot It's a lubrican which means it will leave a residue. You don't want to leave any residue especially a oily residue in a pot. Over time it will destroy the carbon track and the pot
I hope everyone appreciates you giving credit to the Blueglow Electronics videos.
Thanks for getting the word out. I have kept a can of this stuff in my workshop for 20 years and I try to tell people about things like this but you having an audience and this is a great PSA with clear explanation and camerawork!
I have used Deoxit on audio components many times. I have been repairing office machines like copiers and printers for 39 years. I have had many successful repairs just using deoxit on connectors.
Absolutely agree. I have received a few comments here and on FB from Deoxit haters, which surprises me. Thanks, Dave.
Ooh, almost! This vid was suggested by UA-cam and since I have a scratchy volume pot in my Stratocaster I thought “perfect” timing to view this vid. But alas, you did not show what I Really needed to see: the act of spraying the pot. I’ll keep searching , and good luck.
Find a gap or hole in the pot and try to get the spray inside.
Sir your timing and knowledge are amazing. Deoxit is the product I am looking for. I inherited my brother's system. Purchased in Taiwan 1969. Sansui receiver!! Thank you.
It's funny how that can happen. Watch the video I linked to in the description for more expert advice. Please subscribe. Thanks, Dave
For pots you need the green Fader version. It's safe for carbon pots. You are going to destroy your pots with the red D5.
FWIW: I have been fixing decade resistor boxes, and the stuff seems to work it's magic after DAYS, not minutes. The nature of what I'm doing requires detailed records and testing down to milliohms. There's no question that devices I shelved and returned to days or weeks later have IMPROVED measurements after the DeoxIT treatment.
Just yesterday I finished cleaning and re-lubricating 22 Faders and 2 potentiometers on my 1978 Soundcraftsmen PE2217 Preamp - Equalizer. Many of the Faders were intermittent, and all of them were tough to move due to the lubricant having dried and hardened after 45 years, and one potentiometer was also intermittent. It took some time, but they are all working properly after blasting them with Deoxit. I then had to lubricate the 22 Faders with a silicon lubricant. Now all is well, and the Faders slide better than I can recall before.
I wasn't quite sure what deoxit to buy. Now I know D5.
Thank you. Much appreciated.
No, you need the green F5 for pots with carbon track.
Take the top cover off. usually just 4 screws in the side of the cover. From there you can access everything easy.
*DO* *NOT* *USE* Deoxit D5 (Red can) in a pot. Over time it will ruin the pot.
*USE* *Deoxit* *F5*
Pots work by using a carbon slide surface as a variable resistor. As the slide contact moves along this carbon surface, it increases and decreases the resistance. A volume pot is a variable resistor.
Deoxit D5 will destroy that carbon slide surface over time. Especially if you use a lot of it.
*USE* *Deoxit* *F5* and don't spray it where you have it dripping out of the component.
You only need a quick burt of it. You immediately turn the pot to work the cleaner into it.
My dad's old pioneer sx5 receiver had the same problem and I did that too. I had to continue to do it every 6 months or so because some scratching would come back, but each application improved things. Eventually it will be completely gone for good.
You were supposed to use DeoxIT Fader F5 green version for pots, as the red one eats the carbon track, so eventually the pots stop working.
I own three Sansui components:
G-7500
G-9000
AU-D11ii
All three can benefit from a can of Deoxit D5.
There isn't any static in either one one of the three volume controls. However, the balance and the tone controls could use some Deoxing.
Appreciate your videos. Thx!
I've used it on push-buttons as well. Thanks for your comments. Dave.
Ooooh! G9000!! 😱🥂
The red one is for metal on metal. For pots you need the green Fader version. It's safe for carbon pots.
@@Omega_Mark Excellent
@@jamiesmith6838 The "5" in D5 or F5 means 5% lubricant and the rest is a cleaning/deoxit solution (different composition for green/red). Ideally, if you have a good access to a fader/pot, you may want to follow up bit later with F100 (all lubricant), but often F5 might be enough. Never try to spray F5 through the shaft hole in the front, as you will removed thick lubricant on it and make the shaft more wobbly.
Good stuff I used it to fix a cell phone that would turn of when I closed it .It is a flip phone.PS I have sansui 7070 still working fine.
Very versatile stuff. Please subscribe. Thanks, Dave
Hi I thought you should use the DeoxIT Fader F5 for volume pots rather than this one.
Definitely.
thanks for this video! i had the same problem with my realistic receiver, one channel didnt work at all and the volume knob when turned would crackle. i might try this out instead of sending it to be repaired.
For pots you need the green Fader version. It's safe for carbon pots.
@@Omega_Mark ok.. i tried this version and it worked for a while, im guessing it got dirty again. ill try the green one then
I have a 1981 Panasonic RA-6500 am/fm cassette deck. I was having the same issues with the volume control that crackling sound and the treble control the same thing I'm keeping my fingers crossed this will solve the problem. I just purchased a can of this deoxit.
I am confident that it will help. There are lots of how-to UA-cam videos about that topic. Thanks, Dave
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful.
You should do them all while you're in there.Deoxit works great for guitar and bass amps too
That contact cleaner can cause problems with carbon film variable resistors and shouldn't be used can cause the carbon to separate from the body you need the one 5f design for these pots
It's some kind of carbon oxide and with DeoxIT you are deoxidizing that film, literally destroying it.
Edit: DeoxIT Fader F5 green bottle is safe on carbon tracks.
Use Deoxit Fader green bottle for pots. You will destroy your carbon track with the red bottle. It will work fine for a while with the red one, but that's not the solution long term and you might end up having to replace these pots due to chemical damage from the spray.
Very true. I'm seeing tons of people on UA-cam swearing by it.
I've been building, playing and working on guitars and electronics for more than 35 years.
So is the red deoxy okay for switches?
@@jacksonrauch9429 The red one is for metal on metal contacts with no carbon oxide coating.
@@jacksonrauch9429 yes
I am watching at 1.75 speed
Ok , I guess.
Same bro thx 😂😂
That shits still slow 😭😭🤣🤣
My Nikko nr-1019 keep cutting out on left side. I’ll try this!
My Nikko has been doing that on and off for years! I have a sta 4030 and everytime I've taken it to be fixed, within one to two years it's the same problem all over again. I'm even on a second set of vintage speakers with new cables. I might try this as well, but man this has been frustrating over owning this for 16 years.
For pots you need the green Fader version. It's safe for carbon pots.
Just a suggestion be careful with the deoxit on the rotary controls it can destroy the carbon I recommend CRC 226 a lot of experience technicians know about the accident on potentiometers can ruin them just thought I'd make a comment have a great day
Absolutely true.
If you're going to use Deoxit, use the Deoxit in the green can. It's for faders and pots where it doesn't destroy the carbon track/slide surface in the pot
Good, tanks,!!
Novice here. So the volume control is a potentiometer ? What are the other potentiometers in a receiver, which I should avoid with the red Deoxit?
Cool video!
nice tutorial video
Many thanks!
According to the Deoxit folks you should be using F5 Fader on your pots, not D5. Apparently D5 will eventually destroy the carbon in the pots. D5 is for switches and such that are all metal.
QUESTION: Aren't you supposed to put the straw into the small hole on the volume pot and then spray? I'm about to try this in the near future. Maybe that's what you did do..I'm not sure. How else would the Deoxit get into the housing of the volume pot?
Yes, use the holes to get it inside.
Its a bugger its so expensive .......upto 70 usd here in NZ
Holy moly!
Um....I will be loading up several cans of it and flying to NZ
Nice video and receiver. Would Deoxit work when one of the two channels when I turn on the receiver cuts off and goes back on for a while I fumble with one knob and another until the channel stays on? When this happens, the speaker makes noises as in your video, only worse. In my case, the watt metre tells me that there is little or no no power going to that channel. Could it be I need to get one or more new capacitors installed? Is that an expensive thing to have done? Thank you.
Definitely try Deoxit first. It fixes many issues.
Same thing happens on my Nikko
Do you think WD40 or battery corrosion spray would have a similar effect?
NO!
@@len9518 WD40 is an insulator. For pots you need the green Fader version. It's safe for carbon pots.
I would spray again and turn upside down!
Can you buy it at Walmart? Definitely want to try it on my JVC gigatube
Don’t think so. Amazon is where I buy from. Thx.
@@MODAC I was thinking it was going to be Amazon lol... Thanks for the video man I am going to buy that
Hopefully you didn't follow through with the purchase. Do not used red D5 on pots. Use the green Fader F5 on pots.
@@Omega_Mark i did used it.. still working good.... Why you say to use the other one?
@@hacatan24 The red one is for metal on metal contacts. Fader green is safe on a carbon oxide track that most of these old pots use. I don't think I have to describe for you to know what happens when you DeoxIT carbon oxide;).
Someone here in other comment described that he had to reapply it every 6 months and eventually these pots stopped working for him. Now he has to replace them. Many of these old pots are hard to find these days and can be rather expensive. Replacing them can be quite tedious as well. Much easier is to use a proper cleaner. Don't take my word for it;):
ua-cam.com/video/0ADYRx2jQSE/v-deo.html
next time pull the nob and spary it down the shaft that works to i do it all the time when i cant get to the pod it slef.hey it works
Usually not good enough. Nozzle needs to get in that little hole you saw in the video.
Do not spray it down the shaft. You are removing the special lubrication for it and it will not be as tight anymore. You are supposed to spray it from the back you never used the red D5 version. Use the green Fader F5 for pots.
Watch this video before you try to use DeoxIT D5 red on your old pots:
ua-cam.com/video/0ADYRx2jQSE/v-deo.html
Yes get the boards nice and soaked. Spray everywhere. Over time the fiber expansion will tighten the connections and make a big improvement in sound. 🙈 just don’t do it.
WD40 will do the same thing at a much cheaper price
WD40 is an insulator. Not recommended for audio equipment. You don't want that on pots, just on metal bolts, etc.
NEVER put WD-40 in a pot
It's a lubrican which means it will leave a residue.
You don't want to leave any residue especially a oily residue in a pot.
Over time it will destroy the carbon track and the pot
Half baked
FYI.. Your videos are considered "content for kids" by Yo*tube. Restricting features. Cannot turn on notifications.
I checked, it is not set as "for kids".
This is about as old as f^%k. How about a penny on headshell fix video?
I'm not sure what you're getting at? Are trying to start an argument or something?
@@MODAC he is
Sprayed this crap in my realistic sta-84 sliders now its way too bright sounding.. sibilance stands out never had that problem before I cleaned it