Oven Controller Repair Kenmore Elite Oven 790.75503
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- You can do this yourself! This is the second time repairing the controller. Please see my first video about this. • Repairing Electronic O...
In this video I show how to take the EOC (oven controller) apart.
Kenmore Elite model 79075503 Dual-Fuel oven. The controller is model 318010102 This time it was a different relay with a burned-out solder joint. But re-soldering the joint fixed it. And my original repair from over 3 years ago appears to be okay.
Thank you so much! I have the exact same oven and Sears repair was here today, saying there is no part # for the control board (I laughed when it showed the part # in your first video). We pay for their warranty service and after a few hours of the repairman leaving with no solution, they called and said there was nothing they could do to repair it and they would give us $1,000 so we can replace it. Well, anyone who owns a 40” oven knows this is a BIG deal, and I hoped someone awesome like you existed in this world! I know what I'll be doing this weekend!
I was getting ready to send my control board out for refurb. Found your video. Same problem on mine! I resoldered both relays. Hopefully it will never be a problem again. Thanks
Matt, you are a lifesaver. Your video was spot on to our problem and helped us resolve the issue. Saved us thousands of dollars in replacing the stove since we could not find a new or used controller anywhere.
Amazing video! I have a different stove but the same repair concepts apply. My broiler stopped working and the oven would not heat beyond luke warm. After watching your 2 videos, my husband and I opened the back of the stove, removed the control board, opened the board to display the back side and found a spot where the solder appeared different than all the other solder spots on the board. We touched up the solder spot and put it back in the stove. My stove is once again working great! Before watching your videos I was ready to send my stove to the landfill and invest $1200+ in a new stove. Thankyou so much!!!
Matt! Just a fantastic video! I cannot believe that I finally stumbled on this. I had done the normal troubleshooting, checked the coil resistance, checked the thermal probe, etc. Of course we have exactly the same Kenmore Elite Oven. I was just about to scroll through another half dozen websites that offer to repair your controller when I found your two videos. Just amazing. One simple solder application to get the oven repaired. I do understand that this is not a forever fix and that a better or heavier solder bead could be necessary or the other relay could need the save fix eventually. But what a relief to get this repaired myself. Your detailed explanation in this video of separating the two board halves of the controller was a life saver as well. I would have likely broken something without your guidance. Thanks a million!
Matt. Thank you so much for sharing this information. I actually purchased two elements thinking that was the problem. Then I saw your video and found the EXACT same solder joint was melted. Re-soldered that joint following what you did on your two videos and oven is working perfectly! You saved me a bunch of money! I do agree with the commenter that maybe there's something wrong with the relays, but for now, I'm good to go. Thanks again!
The used appliance business must be very profitable considering they get these good-looking, easy-to-repair appliances for absolutely free everyday.
Thanks for this video. You gave me the courage to take apart the control board and reveal a burned spot where the soldier should have been, just like your video. I was able to fix it and avoid purchasing a new $360 control board (+$100 labor) for my 5 year old Kenmore Elite Electric range.
thanks i trouble shot my kenmore elite oven and figured out it was the control panel. i saw your video and opened the control panel. the problem was exactly like your video. i cut a small piece of wire and enclosed the other end. instead of jumping i soldered the one ended wire to the damaged area and soldered it it worked. thanks.
I'm a happy woman! Joining the ranks of those thanking you for your videos and help. The format and price of my Kenmore Elite (like the one you repaired) really works well for us. Bought it in 2006 and it's been great until the oven stopped heating last week. I guess 14 years is pretty good for today's appliances. Repair tech looked at it, said it couldn't be fixed and board (part # 318010102) was no longer available. While researching places to send the board for possible repair I found your videos. I've worked on computers some and the range's board didn't look all that different. So, I recruited my son for muscle power and we tackled it. Other issues are likely to come up - but it's working for now. Like others have written, finding a replacement range for the 40 inch opening in my counter was not going to be easy or inexpensive. Plus, all of the newer, fancier ranges I found on the market today lacked some of things I love about my old Kenmore! Thanks again for taking time to share your knowledge and experience.
Matt: Thank you for both of your oven repair videos. YOU ARE THE KING OF HOME ELECTRONICS REPAIR! I had a very similar problem with a Maytag Gemini (double oven) that wasn't heating up properly and watched both of your videos. I was pretty sure that my problem was a bad bake element relay (as opposed to the broil element relay). Mine is a G8P-1C4TP-DC24.
I found and bought a new relay, opened up the control board... and found the same thing you did. In my case, it was the broil element relay that had one pin that had become de-soldered. There was nothing wrong with the bake relay. I re-soldered the one broil relay pin, tested it out and I'M BAKING AGAIN!
I'm keeping the relay for the next time in case re-soldering doesn't permanently solve the problem.
By the way, a new control board for the Maytag Gemini can be bought for the low, low price of..... $462. That's at a discount and doing the install myself. I was very happy to, instead, solder one joint myself, with the help of your video, and I'm sure I can find something better to spend $462 on. Thanks again for making such a great video. I know from experience that it's easier to just do the repair WITHOUT filming it. Thank you! -Jeff
Matt, thank you for posting your repairs. I knew it would be an easy fix just need the courage to open it up like you did. If I am right you are a fighter and you will get through your current battle! God bless and best of luck to you and your family.
Watched your video and repaired a frigidaire FEB27S5ASB by following the exact same steps. Your video is greatly appreciated!
You first video was a lifesaver about a year ago. Exact same problem and the part is no longer manufactured (and no replacement part either). You fix worked like a champ vs the $100 to $150 for a "repair service" for this part. Oven just popped again. Looks like that's my next project.
My biggest issue is we can't replace the stove as no one makes a 40" stove. To replace the stove I would have to do a kitchen remodel due to the current layout!
As others are saying...thank you!! My husband did exactly as you showed and it's working. Saved us tons of money!
Best vidio....he knew what to do.
I KNOW THAT THIS VIDEO IS OLD BUT THANKS MEN SAVE ME ALOT OF MONEY REALLY DIDN'T WANT SPEND MUCH ON ANOTHER BOARD
We’ll done Matt. Just repaired mine thanks to you! 😇😇 lifesaver
i love the cat appearing. I thought it was my ginger cat (Mango) appearing at 2mins 31 sec into this video, he generally supervises most my repairs. oh Well, Appears not, my one is sleeping.
Thank you, you saved us thousands of dollars!
This will be my first attempt at fixing an oven. The video was helpful for me to know what to expect when taking the back panel off however, I don’t know how to solder the oven control. Do you have a video about that?
Putting more solder on will make it work for awhile, but the problem is the relays. They need to be replaced. They are getting hot enough to melt themselves free.
Also you need to remove all of the old solder and put on fresh solder. I usually add a small piece of wire to the relay terminal and scrape away some of the soldier mask, so that there is more surface area involved with dissipating the heat. I should make a video so it would be easier to understand . It makes a big difference on long the repair lasts.
Saved me maybe 5-10K. You rock sir.
Congrats on the savings!
I think I'll need to replace the relays on mine. Mouser has them all.I figured I'd go ahead and replace all three.
Can you send me links to the Mouser site? I couldn't find them, site said they were discontinued. Thanks!
Can you please also send me the link I couldn't find this Relay for my range
thanks
@@AlphaPepper Same thing here mouser said no they don’t have them is there a replacement relay that works
Matt, I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to create and post this video. I just had the same problem, with the same oven. Your video saved me a lot of grief and a lot of money. I would also like to know where the relays can be purchased in case I need to take this repair to the next level in the future. Would be well worth a few dollars of investment now to avoid having to buy a whole new oven when they are no longer available.
Hi Ken, it looks like the relays are no longer available via the original link I posted. I'll have to do some digging. Will reply when I find them.
Digikey appears to sell replacements www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G8P-1A4P-DC15/G8P-1A4PDC15-ND/1813590?WT.srch=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwg47KBRDk7LSu4LTD8eEBEiQAO4O6r75zZ-cBS5hYBmrlfxJoQGiUhxsfhbO1jYXnUs_i5jgaAn5c8P8HAQ
My mom had one of the solder joints at the heater relays fail a couple years ago, re-soldered failed again just about a week ago. Instead of just resoldering, I removed the masking from the pads for the heater relays and ran a heavy bead of solder from the outputs to the terminals. Hopefully it will increase the current carrying capacity and not fail again.
Great video! Thanks for showing us this fix!
Hi Matt. Please excuse my redundancy but I posted your first video looking for some additional help without saying so in the first few lines. That video gave me great confidence I could tackle repairing my Fridgedair 318010102 control board which had stopped working with a burning smell and had gone dark.
After several passes, I could really use some further advice particularly from someone who has successfully diagnosed and repaired this board beyond the level of depth you have covered so far, and I suspect that many of the repair services offered can only handle the easy problems.
When I took my board apart I found a big hole beneath one of the pins in the bake relay and signs of significant burning including a couple of pcb gold threads which had been exposed and broken. Not to be discouraged I wired pin to pin around the broken threads and used fairly heavy copper wire to connect the relay pin to pin to connections on its pcb plate. But this repair did not work.
With a little more research I found a video on "hidden thermal fuses in small transformers" and in the comments I found advice to check a small zener diode on the board that could also be bad. So I removed the transformer, found the embedded thermal fuse, verified that it had blown, and ordered some replacements including the zener diode on DigiKey (which also has replacement 9v relays for the board). Now having replaced the thermal fuse and the zener diode, I tried my "repaired" control board again and it is still dark and dead. I live tested the transformer to find it putting out 39.2 VAC on its secondary which is surprising since a repair kit I ordered contained 9 volt relays. Needless to say the transformer is no longer available. Help anyone?
When the video began, I was already fed up and I thought I was watching another dolt, but you just saved me, so thank you. Wasted much time watching so many videos with one moron copying another...just replacing parts and no solution. For those who need a new part, I SUGGEST IF THEY ARE NOT MADE ANY LONGER and too expensive to justify purchasing, head to Habitat for Humanity Restore or thrift stores, or used appliance places. My unit is in a wall oven made for Electrolux, by Frigidaire, in Canada. The model number is GLEB30S8CQB made February 2004. My part number is exactly as yours...and looks identical. My bake element relay also had a burnt solder connection and I resoldered all the relay pins. Before soldering, when I had tested with ohm meter across elements and the temp sensor, and for AC current, I could not detect any problem. I was assuming it was one of the unattached relays, inside and mounted adjacent to the control board, but after seeing your solution, I did not waste time testing the relays, and just removed the electronic oven controller, and took it apart. I was surprised and very glad to find I also had a burnt solder connection. Oven now works great! This is clearly not a unique problem and is either bad design, assembly or engineering...or all three.
I would call that an engineering flaw. That design is relying on the solder alone to cary the full current. I would clean the posts and loop 16 gauge wire around it so the wire is taking the connection to the circuit trace, not the solder.
YES YES YES. I fixed mine with some silver-bearing solder 3 years ago, and that joint is still good. But a different one just blew out (which I resoldered). The solder alone is carrying the high burner current every time that relay turns on. I was kind of hoping that adding the silver bearing solder would make the joint strong enough to not blow out again. We'll have to see over time.
Hi guys this is Phoebe mats daughter and I just wanna say that he passed away last year and that he’s no longer with us and I want to say that we won’t be making any videos soPlease support us by subscribing and thank you for supporting us and thank you gallon walk-ins walk-ins for supporting us thank you
Great job...you helped me fix my oven 2 years ago (when I had the same solder joint that failed in your first video). Today the other relay went, just like in your case. Thanks for the help!...any idea why they keep blowing? presumably some design defect.
What is a good replacement relay? G8P-1C4TP-DC24 is obsolete, and it's not like you can just throw any similar relay on the PCB without major surgery. I'd like to have a set on hand if/when these die and just tuck it behind the oven for some new homeowner to find in a few decades and when this fails again.
The part label is OMRON 047-00060-00 (no hits)
30A250VAC
I believe it's a 24v switching voltage and 240v. I've seen 15a, 12v, 120v relays of the same shape, but not one for this spec.
We can fix an oven from 1920, but not from 2000. That's pretty sad.
Good question. I don't think you'll be lucky enough to find another relay with exactly the same pin locations. I did this same repair on mine, and the relays are all still good. I found that the coils pull in strong and reliably at 9V, so they are 12V coils at most. They worked well at 12 volts, and did not burn out even when left connected for several minutes, so I'd say a 12 volt coil would be a good choice. The proprietary number on the relay is useless for figuring this out. You can also just check the voltage that the coil pins get hit with on the board itself. Anyway, as for a replacement... if I ever have to do it, I plan to just flip the replacement upside down and zip-tie it to the board somewhere convenient, with soldered wires running from the relay pins to the board traces, using 14 or 16 ga wire for the heavy switched current leads. That's still heavier than the little pins and traces they used on the board!
Happened to me took it apart looked to me like former owner also had the control board apart because I could see wear on tabs so my guess is that this is a common problem on these specific boards/relays
Is that considered the motherboard?
Supervisor pops in to check up on your work at 2:32 ..
Matt am i need a used or refurbished oven controller. I watch ur video, repaired it and it worked for a minute and now does not work anymore. sent it to repairs and its taking ages cos they can't find part. SMH. any advice u can give? thanks
I see your cat!
Matt have you ever had the time and timer brightness get very dim and if so were you able to fix it by soldering anything on the panel?
Skip Kern sorry, I haven’t seen that
@Mat, I have one of these Elite ovens..My LED is getting dim. I also am experiencing a problem with the oven heating element controlled by the same element. It wont turn off when its plugged in the wall.
Any Ideas
@@greatobservations9810 I chose to take the easy road and took the board out and sent to circuitboardmedics.com/318010102-oven-control-board-repair/ they did exactly what they said and I received it back as noted and operated like it is brand new. Was the best money spent for my time.
@@skipkern9065 Cool.😎thanks skip.. what price range to repair it?
I found an aftermarket version replica around $300.00. Didn't want to invest that much.
@@greatobservations9810 go to the link look for your oven serial and choose shipping and turn around. I believe it was $199.. and comes with a 2 yr warranty of repair
Hi, where we can find thèse parts pls?
Hi I have the same oven and don’t know where the model number is located can anyone please tell me where it’s located on the stove. Thank you!
too bad we couldn't see the burnt joint???
Would the oven only “heat” to 100 & the element not even heat at all?
Mike Connors yes, I think just the top element was working, if I recall
Matt DeRoller thanks Matt I have the same issue...
do you have a video of where you actually removed it? like how did you remove it? ? ? ? ? ? ??