I can't tell you how much I appreciate the no bullshit approach to your videos; telling it like it is, no bias, and no brand loyalty unless the gear proves itself. Thanks for the content.
I've had a Trailhawk for probably 10 or more years, I've used it a lot, winter included. It's light enough to bring, effective enough to make it worth carrying (as opposed to having nothing) and the little hammer poll is handy as well. In the US it's also maybe $20. The price alone makes it the winner, maybe not in other countries though! Great review!
What a great practical test of axes. Not just steel reviews, how sharp it gets and so on but chopping, splitting, batoning and making something which someone would actually do in the woods.
I'm usually a folding Silky saw & large chopper/buttoning knife guy, but I like the Cold Steel Rifleman's Hawk for the heavier head & longer cutting edge which I feel protects the handle better for end grain splitting, & it has a good hammer poll. I also like the Gransfors Carpenters Axe because it not only chops well but I can fit my hand behind the beard & use it like a knife for fine work. I like your no-nonsense technique for testing & using your tools. Keep up the good work.
Me too Barry. My Cold Steel Trail Master and a Silky or Bahco saw make a formidable team! However I'm careful about the size of log I baton with a knife - diameter only half the blade length. Bigger logs need wedges!
Loved the fire lighting demo and combine that with the hawk it was a boy's own dream. 😁 Great comparison between the two axes and a straight up honest review. The trailhawk is good for the money and lots of fun once it's reprofiled, but it's not an axe. Still love mine though and the fact it can be taken down to fit in a pocket. Cracking video Rob.
Hi Rob ☺ a good side by comparison, one of the biggest differences is that the trail hawk head is easily removed for use as a hand tool, and if you bust the shaft you can use the head to make another one in the field, is that an advantage?, maybe , but like you I prefer a normal shaped axe head as I think the balance is in the right place, a good splitter is usually down to the head profile, ie, thin wedge for chopping , fat wedge for splitting. I think like knives there's no one axe that can do it all , but it's fun trying to find one, and maybe along the way we learn what we realy need, and that sometimes means less is more. Thanks for the video Rob, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Great video as usual. I love my Wildlife, I even use it more than my Small Forrest Axe. Nice to see a lens used for firelighting, you had luck on your side though, I've never witnessed that much sun in Wales!
Great video brother, two perfect tools to compare. I do like using a hawk in the right situation. The only one I've used in the CRKT Chogan and it's a great budget small axe. That CS Hawk looked great as well. You had me laughing a few times so that's a bonus! Cheers my friend 🍻
@@RobEvansWoodsman It was sharp, if I recall it had a steep secondary bevel though. Fun little tool. Nice work with the King Arthur's Cake. Would you say it burns hotter than Chaga?
ive had the trailhawk for a year or two now, its pretty useful and the right size for most stuff and my backpack but its not too good at heavy chopping
I was considering buying some Tomahawk, but there wasn't as much quality videos out there. And what do you know! My favorite outdoorsman is making a review of one of those. 👌 Well ... maybe Trailhawk is not exactly for me, but Norse Hawk might be fun to experiment with. Thumb up!
I'd really suggest a Calabria pattern axe as a cheap alternative. Quite a step up actually if you ask me. Anyway of you can find one they are a great budget "alternative" to the outdoor axe. The Prandis are nice though the grinding on mine was complete garbage but the head was otherwise good. The Rinaldis come rough around the edges but only need the edge refined in order to be work ready straight from the factory. The reason the GB did better is because the wedge profile is required for efficient cutting just as much as splitting. Wood needs to get pushed up and out of the cut to produce chips and the knife like profile of the trailhawk does so just as poorly as a knife. With some practice and better placement I think you might enjoy the outdoor axe a fair bit more.
I've had a short-handled Trail Hawk for years, its good enough at what it can do and I'm probably not about to blow megabucks on a GB, just to find out some limitations that I've been able to work around for the intervening years anyway!
@@samuelwilliams7802 complete turnaround from that remark over a year ago, I sold two of the three wetterlings axes I had, I kept the Hudson bay axe which I really like and the other two have gone, they were better for heavier duty splitting but that's it.
If you had to carry the axe/hatchet/tomahawk on you for hours of hiking at a time, you had other tools on you too like a Bahco folding saw, some kind of scandi fixed blade for fine carving and a also a multitool like a Leatherman etc…what ‘heavier duty’ tool would you suggest for regular splitting of wind fall branches to get at the dry wood inside for kindling from species of trees that are very hard and knotty?. In other words the tool must not chip or snap (so large fixed blades for ‘batoning’ probably won’t last?), heavy enough and/or sharp enough to split the branches (probably mainly 3 inches or less in diameter), but light enough to use with one hand while the other hand holds the branch being split, and most of the splitting will be done with the blade and handle in-line down onto the branch (as opposed to splitting by chopping down in the end of the vertical branch). I like the idea of the tomahawks, since if the handle breaks it’s so easy to make another, also cold steels tomahawks are very ‘tough’ in that the edges would rather roll than chip, but which one has enough weight to really chop down through extremely tough dry knotty wood without also being as heavy as a felling axe? (Or any other brand you would suggest?) Thanks for any suggestions
If I was hiking long distance in a temperate climate I'd leave the axe at home , take a good size saw like a silky bigboy, marbles wedge, mid size utility knife like a fallkniven S1x (I've changed the scales on mine) or Cold steel SRK and a leatherman tool, maybe a light scandi for a spot of recreational carving and shaving sticks not an essential knife/grind for camp duties on the move. I think the marbles wedge is a game changer for splitting capabilities, takes away the need for an axe or large knife. If this was in the boreal forest I'd go with a saw axe , leatherman and a good strong scandi grind knife. Jungle would be a parang, lightweight saw like a Laplander and a leatherman signal . Hopefully that answer your question.
You've got to remember that the tomahawk was first and foremost a weapon that could usefully perform light wood chopping duties as a secondary function.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Of course, Rob, I get all that. There was a time in my youth when all I wanted was a fringed buckskin shirt, a pair of moccasins and a tomahawk! Oh yes, and a Davy Crocket racoon hat! My friend and colleague brought me one back from the USA a few years ago. It's lovely, but far too hot to wear unless it's below -20 deg C!
I appreciate your honest opinion and field testing on those. When I choose to carry a small ax, I choose a heaver one, in a boy's size ~ 19-22" handle. Thanks for what you do - it is appreciated. BTW - Have you seen Rad Brad around lately?
I don't know the Cold Steel Trailhawk but I own the Cold Steel Hudson Bay Tomahawk and the Hudson Bay is a decent hatchet. A friend of mine has the Gransfors Bruks Outdoor Axt, a really good hatchet and comes very sharp from the factory. Unfortunately the wooden shaft broke and he had to buy a new shaft. My favorite hatchets are the Bark River Hunters Axe (A2 steel) and the TOPS Ucon Hawk (1095 steel), both hatchets are full steel constructions with G10 and Micarta handles. The Hunters Axe splits better and the Ucon Hawk chops better.
Thanks for this. I might be missing something and not doubting your skill and experience is superior to mine, but I was always told never to pound on an axe head, that it would deform the eye and tomahawks and some hatchets had a hammer at the back that had a different heat treat so it was ok. Will batoning reduce the life of your outdoor axe?
No problems hitting it with a wooden batton it's another axe or a steel lump hammer you should not use. I really can't see a problem using a wooden batton occasionally.
Cant understand why people insist on comparing hawks to axes ? ..a hawk is a multi tool for camp chores and in its original form was primarily a weapon. Today they serve as a machete and general purpose peg carver and pounder that is substantialy lighter than most hatchets. If you want an axe choose and axe, for people woods bumming or hunting that might need to brush a trail or split a sternum of a large game animal take the Hawk. Here in Alaska i find a hawk handy as they are cheap and they are big enough to cut minor brush on the trap line ....or enough to break ice on the streams and they are handy for preparing a small cook fire for lunch with out having to subject my MUCH more expensive Belt knife to the abuse of splitting wood.
The GB outdoor axe isn't your typical small axe/ hatchet it sits somewhere between a hawk and hatchet, I put these two together in a test because the price difference is considerable and to the casual user they look similar.
Honeysuckle bark is a thing? I've been battling that evil Jumanji Vine for years in my yard. Please tell me it's good for something other than trying up yard scraps. I'm surprised the tomahawk did as well as it did. Nice mods. Thanks for sharing. Stay healthy
@@RobEvansWoodsman ... i guess if you look at their evolution, the tomahawk is limited to an extent ... deriving from stone-age axes and being originally intended to be a tool and also a weapon. While the gransfors is purely a tool.
I bought the small Marbles double bit axe . It is dirt cheap in both price and quality. I don't mind some sharpening and making my own sheath (from a PVC Gallon container), that's a fun project, but it made the perfect sheatch & finish on my GB Wildlife hatchet look very attractive! Also a double bit can't be battoned ...
i had a double bit condor chicago axe about five years ago, total crap, i spent ages on the cutting edges making one side a chopping edge and the other for splitting and rough jobs like hacking roots, it was far to light for any real work, sold it and got my money back but not the time id spent reprofiling it and making a sheath.
Hmmmm - interesting. Since getting my CS Trail Master I've had some rethinking. I tried it out on dry oak branches and it's a fantastic cutter, and would probably do better than either of the axes. Although I've not tried it for splitting such a large log (I'd probably use a wooden wedge or two), with such a thick blade it should do a good splitting job. What's your experience with it for splitting? I think by now you know my feelings about blade beating! 😏 I would possibly use a knife for batoning but on logs of only half the diameter of the blade length, so for the TM about 4 inches diameter. Bigger than that is for wedges. But, (confession) those little axes are a lot of fun!
The trailmaster can take a good beating, the only thing I can think of that's not bombproof on CS knives are the rubber handles, this is where micarta wins.
@@RobEvansWoodsman you're not kidding - they are cheap - ive just ordered a folding 50mm.... x10 mag for £3.50 Ha! Remember the bad old days before ebay when it would cost at least £15 + postage 🤣
If you told a youngster now that eBay and cheap bargain homeware shops didn't exist they wouldn't believe you, everything was expensive 30 years ago. Mail order over the phone or post!!!!
@@RobEvansWoodsman 'Made in China' is why things are cheap. Some of the stuff I've had from there is okay, but I've also had some total crap and I mean TOTAL crap! I like the little credit card-sized Fresnel lenses. I have one permanently in my wallet. I love King Alfred's Cakes (aka, cramp balls, Daldinia concentrica). They are such satisfying things to find in the woods (on dead ash trees). I take them home and put them on a radiator or in the airing cupboard in a cardboard box to get them really dry.
I've rarely found one dry enough to use straight off the tree, Fresnel lens are ok and I have lit a fire with one but I do find a dedicated magnifying glass a lot better.
Small axes should not be used like hammers (with retracted arms). But with a relaxed extended arm and advanced shoulder, almost at maximum reach, with the best speed possible given skill-experience-conditions. 10 hits a minute or less is plenty good if speed and accuracy are there. Speed is what makes (little) axe heads bite hard.
You have to styles of axes and comparing them beside one looks heavier. 🤔 If you are using a split axe lije and comparing it to a non one, ther is logical the split axe the winner. Beside this hole video sounds like a fanboy video for gransfors. 🤔
I can't tell you how much I appreciate the no bullshit approach to your videos; telling it like it is, no bias, and no brand loyalty unless the gear proves itself. Thanks for the content.
Thanks.
I've had a Trailhawk for probably 10 or more years, I've used it a lot, winter included. It's light enough to bring, effective enough to make it worth carrying (as opposed to having nothing) and the little hammer poll is handy as well. In the US it's also maybe $20. The price alone makes it the winner, maybe not in other countries though! Great review!
It's around 50 US in the Czech Republic now, still a great price for such a useful hawk!
What a great practical test of axes. Not just steel reviews, how sharp it gets and so on but chopping, splitting, batoning and making something which someone would actually do in the woods.
Thank you for a positive comment, I appreciate it.
I'm usually a folding Silky saw & large chopper/buttoning knife guy, but I like the Cold Steel Rifleman's Hawk for the heavier head & longer cutting edge which I feel protects the handle better for end grain splitting, & it has a good hammer poll. I also like the Gransfors Carpenters Axe because it not only chops well but I can fit my hand behind the beard & use it like a knife for fine work. I like your no-nonsense technique for testing & using your tools. Keep up the good work.
Me too Barry. My Cold Steel Trail Master and a Silky or Bahco saw make a formidable team! However I'm careful about the size of log I baton with a knife - diameter only half the blade length. Bigger logs need wedges!
Good axe control Rob, I like the little tricks i e putting the axe into the base log and pulling the wood along the blade thanks
Loved the fire lighting demo and combine that with the hawk it was a boy's own dream. 😁 Great comparison between the two axes and a straight up honest review. The trailhawk is good for the money and lots of fun once it's reprofiled, but it's not an axe. Still love mine though and the fact it can be taken down to fit in a pocket. Cracking video Rob.
Hi Rob ☺ a good side by comparison, one of the biggest differences is that the trail hawk head is easily removed for use as a hand tool, and if you bust the shaft you can use the head to make another one in the field, is that an advantage?, maybe , but like you I prefer a normal shaped axe head as I think the balance is in the right place, a good splitter is usually down to the head profile, ie, thin wedge for chopping , fat wedge for splitting. I think like knives there's no one axe that can do it all , but it's fun trying to find one, and maybe along the way we learn what we realy need, and that sometimes means less is more. Thanks for the video Rob, stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
I think you'd be a right ham fisted bugger to break the handle but having an easily replaceable handle is definitely a plus in my book.
Appreciate ya!
yer words good enough for me, Wildlife .
Ive always liked cold steel for the money.I love the comparison thanks for the opinion.
Great video as usual. I love my Wildlife, I even use it more than my Small Forrest Axe.
Nice to see a lens used for firelighting, you had luck on your side though, I've never witnessed that much sun in Wales!
Twice a year mate.
Hopefully Saturday I'll get some more!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Love it!
Being on a tight budget the trailhawk is perfect for me, but I only have access to small areas of public woodland so it doesn't do any heavy work
Great little axe 🪓 definitely getting one!
I do prefer the wildlife hatchet for carving and chopping.
@@RobEvansWoodsman How about splitting?
@@lancedyck3730 the outdoor axe is better , especially if you use a batton.
Great video brother, two perfect tools to compare. I do like using a hawk in the right situation. The only one I've used in the CRKT Chogan and it's a great budget small axe. That CS Hawk looked great as well.
You had me laughing a few times so that's a bonus! Cheers my friend 🍻
Thanks Wade, the Choggan is far heavier than the Cold steel. Did yours arive blunt mine had 1mm flat on the edge!
@@RobEvansWoodsman It was sharp, if I recall it had a steep secondary bevel though. Fun little tool. Nice work with the King Arthur's Cake. Would you say it burns hotter than Chaga?
It basically burns like a good piece of charcoal.
ive had the trailhawk for a year or two now, its pretty useful and the right size for most stuff and my backpack but its not too good at heavy chopping
Or carving duties with the original profile.....I'm sure I mentioned that once or twice 🤣
I was considering buying some Tomahawk, but there wasn't as much quality videos out there. And what do you know! My favorite outdoorsman is making a review of one of those. 👌
Well ... maybe Trailhawk is not exactly for me, but Norse Hawk might be fun to experiment with.
Thumb up!
I'm sure the rifleman's hawk was a nice one too.
I'd really suggest a Calabria pattern axe as a cheap alternative. Quite a step up actually if you ask me. Anyway of you can find one they are a great budget "alternative" to the outdoor axe. The Prandis are nice though the grinding on mine was complete garbage but the head was otherwise good. The Rinaldis come rough around the edges but only need the edge refined in order to be work ready straight from the factory.
The reason the GB did better is because the wedge profile is required for efficient cutting just as much as splitting. Wood needs to get pushed up and out of the cut to produce chips and the knife like profile of the trailhawk does so just as poorly as a knife. With some practice and better placement I think you might enjoy the outdoor axe a fair bit more.
I've had a short-handled Trail Hawk for years, its good enough at what it can do and I'm probably not about to blow megabucks on a GB, just to find out some limitations that I've been able to work around for the intervening years anyway!
I've gone off the GB axes since I discovered Wetterlings, shame they don't make them anymore.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Hi Rob what's the reason for going with wetterlings axes than GB axes please? Many thanks. Sam
@@samuelwilliams7802 complete turnaround from that remark over a year ago, I sold two of the three wetterlings axes I had, I kept the Hudson bay axe which I really like and the other two have gone, they were better for heavier duty splitting but that's it.
@@RobEvansWoodsman once again cheers Rob for the speedy reply 👍 keep up the good work take care 🙂
If you had to carry the axe/hatchet/tomahawk on you for hours of hiking at a time, you had other tools on you too like a Bahco folding saw, some kind of scandi fixed blade for fine carving and a also a multitool like a Leatherman etc…what ‘heavier duty’ tool would you suggest for regular splitting of wind fall branches to get at the dry wood inside for kindling from species of trees that are very hard and knotty?. In other words the tool must not chip or snap (so large fixed blades for ‘batoning’ probably won’t last?), heavy enough and/or sharp enough to split the branches (probably mainly 3 inches or less in diameter), but light enough to use with one hand while the other hand holds the branch being split, and most of the splitting will be done with the blade and handle in-line down onto the branch (as opposed to splitting by chopping down in the end of the vertical branch).
I like the idea of the tomahawks, since if the handle breaks it’s so easy to make another, also cold steels tomahawks are very ‘tough’ in that the edges would rather roll than chip, but which one has enough weight to really chop down through extremely tough dry knotty wood without also being as heavy as a felling axe? (Or any other brand you would suggest?)
Thanks for any suggestions
If I was hiking long distance in a temperate climate I'd leave the axe at home , take a good size saw like a silky bigboy, marbles wedge, mid size utility knife like a fallkniven S1x (I've changed the scales on mine) or Cold steel SRK and a leatherman tool, maybe a light scandi for a spot of recreational carving and shaving sticks not an essential knife/grind for camp duties on the move. I think the marbles wedge is a game changer for splitting capabilities, takes away the need for an axe or large knife. If this was in the boreal forest I'd go with a saw axe , leatherman and a good strong scandi grind knife.
Jungle would be a parang, lightweight saw like a Laplander and a leatherman signal .
Hopefully that answer your question.
@@RobEvansWoodsman wow that wedge looks like a good idea 👍🏻
Thanks for the advice!
Similar concept to a tomahawk, except lighter as it’s made of aluminum, and specific for splitting
You've got to remember that the tomahawk was first and foremost a weapon that could usefully perform light wood chopping duties as a secondary function.
Yes Tony but people buy into the romanticism of it all and they are lighter than an a dedicated wood working axe .
Always good to hear from you mate.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Of course, Rob, I get all that. There was a time in my youth when all I wanted was a fringed buckskin shirt, a pair of moccasins and a tomahawk! Oh yes, and a Davy Crocket racoon hat! My friend and colleague brought me one back from the USA a few years ago. It's lovely, but far too hot to wear unless it's below -20 deg C!
Everything I've read suggests that is false. It was first and foremost a multitool.
I appreciate your honest opinion and field testing on those. When I choose to carry a small ax, I choose a heaver one, in a boy's size ~ 19-22" handle. Thanks for what you do - it is appreciated. BTW - Have you seen Rad Brad around lately?
Brad's on vacation in North Dakota.
Would love to see a comparison of the GB vs the classic Estwing 14" sportsmans hatchet, just for fun lol
I have an Estwing with a leather handle, it was my go-to axe before I discovered GB axes.
I don't know the Cold Steel Trailhawk but I own the Cold Steel Hudson Bay Tomahawk and the Hudson Bay is a decent hatchet. A friend of mine has the Gransfors Bruks Outdoor Axt, a really good hatchet and comes very sharp from the factory. Unfortunately the wooden shaft broke and he had to buy a new shaft.
My favorite hatchets are the Bark River Hunters Axe (A2 steel) and the TOPS Ucon Hawk (1095 steel), both hatchets are full steel constructions with G10 and Micarta handles. The Hunters Axe splits better and the Ucon Hawk chops better.
Thanks for the information my friend.
Thanks for this. I might be missing something and not doubting your skill and experience is superior to mine, but I was always told never to pound on an axe head, that it would deform the eye and tomahawks and some hatchets had a hammer at the back that had a different heat treat so it was ok. Will batoning reduce the life of your outdoor axe?
No problems hitting it with a wooden batton it's another axe or a steel lump hammer you should not use.
I really can't see a problem using a wooden batton occasionally.
good
Would like to see the trail hawk vs the 140 pukko
Not with me I'm afraid, I didn't like either of the knives so I sold them both
Cant understand why people insist on comparing hawks to axes ? ..a hawk is a multi tool for camp chores and in its original form was primarily a weapon. Today they serve as a machete and general purpose peg carver and pounder that is substantialy lighter than most hatchets. If you want an axe choose and axe, for people woods bumming or hunting that might need to brush a trail or split a sternum of a large game animal take the Hawk. Here in Alaska i find a hawk handy as they are cheap and they are big enough to cut minor brush on the trap line ....or enough to break ice on the streams and they are handy for preparing a small cook fire for lunch with out having to subject my MUCH more expensive Belt knife to the abuse of splitting wood.
The GB outdoor axe isn't your typical small axe/ hatchet it sits somewhere between a hawk and hatchet, I put these two together in a test because the price difference is considerable and to the casual user they look similar.
Honeysuckle bark is a thing? I've been battling that evil Jumanji Vine for years in my yard. Please tell me it's good for something other than trying up yard scraps.
I'm surprised the tomahawk did as well as it did. Nice mods.
Thanks for sharing. Stay healthy
If it's the same shedding bark as we have then it's not bad as a tinder bundle, made some cordage from it once but it wasn't that strong.
Nice one Rob - I bought the GB outdoors axe - not as good value as one of your knives mate!
as a camping axe/hatchet, they both seem to perform fine,
i can see the advantages of the tomahawk in some regards thou,
For the money the Cold steel wins but it needs a regrind to be really effective.
@@RobEvansWoodsman ... i guess if you look at their evolution, the tomahawk is limited to an extent ... deriving from stone-age axes and being originally intended to be a tool and also a weapon. While the gransfors is purely a tool.
I've been debating the Marbles small axe. Don't know if it's sold in EU or if you have ever used one. Cheers
I think we can get them, not a company I've used so I can't comment on their products, they do have a history which is a good thing.
I bought the small Marbles double bit axe .
It is dirt cheap in both price and quality.
I don't mind some sharpening and making my own sheath (from a PVC Gallon container), that's a fun project, but it made the perfect sheatch & finish on my GB Wildlife hatchet look very attractive!
Also a double bit can't be battoned ...
i had a double bit condor chicago axe about five years ago, total crap, i spent ages on the cutting edges making one side a chopping edge and the other for splitting and rough jobs like hacking roots, it was far to light for any real work, sold it and got my money back but not the time id spent reprofiling it and making a sheath.
Hmmmm - interesting. Since getting my CS Trail Master I've had some rethinking. I tried it out on dry oak branches and it's a fantastic cutter, and would probably do better than either of the axes.
Although I've not tried it for splitting such a large log (I'd probably use a wooden wedge or two), with such a thick blade it should do a good splitting job. What's your experience with it for splitting?
I think by now you know my feelings about blade beating! 😏 I would possibly use a knife for batoning but on logs of only half the diameter of the blade length, so for the TM about 4 inches diameter. Bigger than that is for wedges.
But, (confession) those little axes are a lot of fun!
The trailmaster can take a good beating, the only thing I can think of that's not bombproof on CS knives are the rubber handles, this is where micarta wins.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Yeah, Rob, I've heard that mentioned by some folk. Not maybe a case of very extreme usage? Micarta is pretty good stuff.
@@dennisleighton2812 I love micarta!!
Hard to beat Fiskars hatchet if you are on a budget and you want to do well at the tests you chose.
I think the newer model Trailhawks have a more reasonable bit shape.
The 🔎 was well impressive, what brand is it please?
eBay and cheap.
@@RobEvansWoodsman you're not kidding - they are cheap - ive just ordered a folding 50mm.... x10 mag for £3.50
Ha! Remember the bad old days before ebay when it would cost at least £15 + postage 🤣
If you told a youngster now that eBay and cheap bargain homeware shops didn't exist they wouldn't believe you, everything was expensive 30 years ago.
Mail order over the phone or post!!!!
@@RobEvansWoodsman 'Made in China' is why things are cheap. Some of the stuff I've had from there is okay, but I've also had some total crap and I mean TOTAL crap! I like the little credit card-sized Fresnel lenses. I have one permanently in my wallet. I love King Alfred's Cakes (aka, cramp balls, Daldinia concentrica). They are such satisfying things to find in the woods (on dead ash trees). I take them home and put them on a radiator or in the airing cupboard in a cardboard box to get them really dry.
I've rarely found one dry enough to use straight off the tree, Fresnel lens are ok and I have lit a fire with one but I do find a dedicated magnifying glass a lot better.
Small axes should not be used like hammers (with retracted arms).
But with a relaxed extended arm and advanced shoulder, almost at maximum reach, with the best speed possible given skill-experience-conditions.
10 hits a minute or less is plenty good if speed and accuracy are there.
Speed is what makes (little) axe heads bite hard.
Pipe hawk would probably work better little heavier with more blade
Neither, although when I owned my Trailhawk it was a good tool and I would likely own another.
2 words... Edge Retention
You have to styles of axes and comparing them beside one looks heavier. 🤔 If you are using a split axe lije and comparing it to a non one, ther is logical the split axe the winner. Beside this hole video sounds like a fanboy video for gransfors. 🤔
I am a GB fan , I'm also a cold steel fan just more for the blades than axes.
Metallica....