Jeff Huebner yes sir, it’s part way between a wee bit and a smidge. All highly technical woodworking terms of course. Thanks for checking out the video!
ExpertOfSound alright, if I had a trophy for best comment from a viewer, you would be grand champion for life! Nicely done, love that you weaved the Grinch into that eloquent soliloquy, and that’s no easy feat.
Snoitch! That’s a better unit of measurement than some crude ones I’ve heard in the past which I don’t care to repeat in the comment! I don’t have a plunge router like yours but even with a trim router, it’s worth going through the process of setting up a proper guide that is clamped to avoid unnecessary and expensive mishaps. I had to cut a a notch for a demountable hinge in an oak cabinet door and I couldn’t find a perfect hinge for the job but with creativity and multiple tools, I got the job done with zero errors!👌🏽
Fun fact, a snoitch was a common unit of measurement of the ancient sumerians. Ah those sumarians, excellent wood workers. And that’s a fact, because science. Nice work on making it happen with a little ingenuity on your project. Thanks for watching!
Thank you this is the best router guiding your router video I have seen I don’t think even I could screw this system up which I normally do most times I have do routing
Alain Gardner simple, sophisticated and cheap, three words that could be used to not only describe this little router trick, but it could probably be used to describe me too, I think. Thanks for checking out the video, keep on routing and rolling!
Great idea! I already watched a few videos about "how to cut grooves for T-track" that turned into "how I repaired my messed up grooves" videos. I'm going to use your method.
When I searched "cut grooves for t track", your video came up. Thank you! I volunteered to make the new router table at our local maker space. After pulling my hair out to get the hole for the router lift cut out with the rabbet at the right depth for a flush fit, my next task is to cut the dadoes for T-track for the fence to ride in. I will follow the steps in your video tomorrow.
Right on, Ian! Knowing that my method is going to be used to help create even one part of a maker space, makes me feel like I’ve done something impactful for the whole maker community. I hope you’ll come back and let me know how it turned out, maybe even email me a couple pictures!
Have to agree with j about running the router in the opposite direction. Nothing wrong with the way you did it except the time involved, but if your time is worth anything $$$ there is nothing wrong with being fast & accurate.
Thank you, it can be a lot to set up, but may help a few people get over the intimidation of using a router. Then they can graduate to more advanced techniques
Jeff you’re welcome Jeff! It’s a handy little trick and my favorite part is you can make it out of scrap wood. Simple, inexpensive and effective, how can you go wrong? Thanks for stopping by and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Happy routing!
Thank you! I am working on building some cabinets/bookshelves, and they are too big for me to groove out on my table saw....so I got a router, and have been trying to figure out how to make sure I get a straight line...this is awesome, and I really appreciate it.
I used your method of spacer jigs in addition to Dave Stanton's dado jig which uses a TSO guide rail square and a Festool guide rail. It worked very well. Thanks for the one weird "spacer" trick professionals don't want you to know!
Hey thanks! The mid track supports definitely help, especially with these particular cutting guides. They tend to flex a little when you connect two together for long runs. Hope you’re able to find this useful in your shop. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment and thanks for the support! Now, get out there and make some sawdust.
Well thank you sir. Sorry took so long to respond, UA-cam filtered this comment out for some reason and I just now found it! Ah, the algorithm strikes again. Anyway thanks for watching!
@JFKreations lol he was 45 acting 18. I'm sure you can find him lol. But you gave me lots of knowledge to build on I'm a handyman had took on a large free standing shelving unit job. I didn't like the inch and a half gap between each unit. I made a few jigs and the seem to work. But on a scrap run it produced a lot of smoke and took to much pressure. An unsafe amount. I'm cutting small inserts to inset basically 2x4's as the structure. Leaving a 3/4 inlay to cover the layers of plywood. Jigs are working well. But my 40 piece router kit is letting me down. Lol so I ordered flush cut bits I think will help.
Hi. Any advice on how to not burn the bits on long cuts of laminate boards? I've used quality bits, but after 1 meter (going slowly) the bit is starting to burn and chop the laminate. Thank you!
Can you tell me what you’re using for that dust collection setup? I’d love to pick up one of those bucket dust collectors if I can find one. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for checking out the video. Here's the link for the Dust Stopper bucket lid dust separator homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=302643445&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FDustopper-High-Efficiency-Dust-Separator-12-in-Dia-with-2-5-in-Hose-36-in-Long-HD12%2F302643445&intsrc=PUI1_2950 and the shop vacuum is homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=304006023&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FRIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-and-Accessories-HD1200%2F304006023&intsrc=PUI1_2950 The hose I'm using is from Rockler www.rockler.com/dust-right-flexiport-power-tool-hose-kit-3-to-12-expandable
Hope you don't mind me throwing in my 2 cents but you can also built your own and save a few bucks. Just look up DIY cyclone dust collector here on you tube. I had a paint bucket laying around and some 1 inch schedule 40 pvc laying around. All I needed was some pvc 45 degree angles some straight pvc connectors, pvc glue and a couple of rubber plumbing connectors. Cost about 20 bucks and works great!
I have a question about routing plywood for a T-Track, the plywood has knots in it which I cannot avoid in my design. Without having to pay for premium plywood (that is pretty much Knotless) but twice the expense $$ how do you suggest getting a clean cut through knots in the wood or am I dreaming and it can't be done?
Might be tough, but rather than looking for a perfect cut, use it as an opportunity to try a new method. You could fill any blown out knot holes with colored cyanoacrylate glue
Lol. I am a newbie. Actually your "exaggerated cut" was very much like mine. Plus I'm using a melamine top 4 my matchfit project. This is going 2 make me crazy by the time it's over. Personally, I use tish & tosh. Tosh is obviously more than tish. I will try ur method.
Jason Gairn had to look that one up. Looks like it may be a decent system, but expensive. I’m glad I saved you from having spend a bunch of money. Happy routing!
The FSN system saves me a ton of time, and I totally recommend it. And note that adjustment screw on the router adapter, with multiple passes you easily do any width with the same bit. Add the plunge saw, router adapter, and jig saw adapter on this common rail system and its worth it. 👍
@@JFKreations yes. Had to replace jig *and* guide pieces, largely in the belief that the jig is tied to one brand and style of guide track. Required a fresh router bit to cut straight lines, as in birch ply takes the edge off in a big hurry, and that using name-brand - Whiteside - router bits! I need to keep a close eye on such cutters.
I have to cut 2 parallel dado cuts along an 8 foot / 96 inch table top. Your method works for the dado cut that is near the middle of the table but what about one that is close to the edge? For example were I want to cut, the router hangs off the edge of the table a bit so I cant place a second cutting guide. Do you have any tips / tricks for this scenario? This is so I can install T-Track onto the table with one of the tracks maybe 1--4 inches from the edge of the table.
For a novice router this is a very interesting video. However, I can see how the technique works on a large board with the dado located away from the edge. I am trying (not very successfully or accurately) to cut a dado in a smaller board and close to the edge, and am having trouble setting up the router. The board approximately 2ft (600mm) x 1ft (300mm) and I want a dado cut across the narrow width ie across 1ft (300mm). The dado should be 3/4" (18mm) wide and 3/8" (8mm) deep located 1" (25mm) from one short edge. Would appreciate any advice and/or direction to another of your videos that covers this type of work. Thanks for your videos.
imarr 17 thanks for checking out the video. Without getting too crazy with creative jigs to do what you’re trying to do, I can think of a couple ways to get that dado close to the edge. If you’re getting into woodworking, and it sounds like you are, this might be a good excuse to buy or make a router table. You can find some fairly affordable basic tables or go all out and lay down some serious money for one. There are also a lot of DIY how to videos out there showing how to make one. The other way would be on a table saw. You could either use a dado stack, or get a flat bottom grind blade and just make multiple passes moving the board slightly each time until the dado is the right width. You’ll want to use your miter gauge on the table saw to support the board as you make the cuts. Hope this helps! Thanks for stopping by.
Shannon P Shannon P definitely a good option for smaller workpieces. I wouldn’t want to try it on a full 4’x8’ sheet of 3/4” melamine like on this workbench though, that wouldn’t be much fun. Thanks for checking out the channel.
Great vid, Jeremy! I'm a beginner (self teaching... if that's actually a thing) but have lofty aspirations to be a decent woodworker someday. Excuse me if I ask a dumb question, but here goes... I've watched your vid 4 times now and I noticed you didn't move your guides over to widen the cut to the width of the t-track. Is that because the router bit you used was a sufficient size for the job, therefore making it unnecessary to adjust your initial set up? If so, what size and type router bit did you use?
Sunny Woodard 4 times? I’m flattered and thanks for checking out my channel. That’s actually a really good question about the T-track. To cut that dado I just used a 3/4” straight router bit. Most T-track, at least all the T-track I’ve come across, is 3/4” wide so one pass width wise will do it. I do recommend taking a few passes to get to the depth you need though to not overwork the router and bonus you can also sneak up on that perfect depth for a smooth install. Hope that helps - Happy Woodworking!
Jeremy- I have had several disasters as your example shows. I am using a 4 foot level clamped to my work surface. The router vibrations are moving the clamped piece! Sometimes by as much as 1/4 inch. Any suggestions for stopping this movement? I am stumped. I dont want to nail it down to my work bench but I dont know how to prevent this movement. Thanks for any guidance on this.
Dave Blew couple thoughts come to mind. Anytime you’re using any type of jig that you’re struggling with it staying in place, you can take a little spray adhesive and attach some sand paper to the backside of the jig (router guide). That will give it some good grip and keep it from sliding around. If you need next level grip, short of nailing it down, you can try some double sided tape. But beyond that I would want to look at why your router is vibrating so much and causing this problem in the first place . Personally I’ve not seen a router vibrate so badly that it throws the guides like what you’re describing. If the work surface you’re working on isn’t solid and can’t absorb vibrations well, maybe that’s why you’re seeing this. Also make sure your clamps have good pads on the grip surface so they don’t slip. Also take a look at the clamps themselves, make sure they aren’t loosening up on you. Really cheap clamps sometimes don’t hold that great. And finally make sure you set that cross brace well, that should help the router guide from flexing and moving. Hope this helps.
Great Video. What router bit did you use? I am doing the exact same thing and the melamine coated mdf chewed up my carbide tipped bit after making 2 grooves and I have to make 6 more :)
Thanks! I use the Diablo router bits. They aren't the absolute best out there, but for the price, you can't go wrong. I've had good luck with Diablo bits and blades and they're easy to find.
Steve Trueblue Steve Trueblue thanks for checking out the video. I’m not 100% clear on what you’re asking though. Are you saying you have a table saw that has film faced plywood for the table surface and accidentally routed a groove into it?
@@JFKreations I tried to router 3/4 inch groove in film faced plywood tablesaw top but much tear-out occurred to my utter surprise and disappointment. Router beginner I am. Used only the saw fence as a guide. Its nearly as bad as your demo. Only 3 mm deep per run. Is film faced ply (only made for concreting) a bad choice for neat routering ? Yours is the only video comes close to answering this question.
Steve Trueblue when I’m routering plywood or melamine to prevent tear out I put down a layer of masking tape and set the router depth to just barely cut through the veneer on the first pass. This usually works very well on plywood. On the melamine it helps minimize chip out but sometimes a little chip out still happens. But for something like a work bench, like in this video, a little chip out doesn’t matter because it’s going to get beat up from use as a workbench anyway. For your situation to fix, about the only thing you can do is clean up the groove as best as you can and fill it with an inlay strip. I’m not sure if film faced plywood is an especially bad choice for routering, I haven’t ever had the need to router this type of plywood. If you do try again a couple things you can look for. Make sure your router bit is a quality bit and is sharp without any build up of pitch or resin from previous use, if there is build up clean the bit before you use it, then try the masking tape method, also do some test cuts on scrap to find the appropriate speed and finally check the grain orientation. If you can arrange the plywood so you are running the router with the grain, not across the grain, it should help minimize tear out too. Sorry I can’t give you a definitive answer but I hope this helps give you a few things to try.
Jay Alvey Jay Alvey it sure is the 12” DEWALT sliding miter saw. Thanks for checking out the video, but I’m not sure what you’re asking about building a table on the miter station? That table I’m currently using for a miter station is a reclaimed standing desk that was destined for the trash. I gave it a second life in my shop. I did build the dust collection hood though. If you want to check that build out click this link ua-cam.com/video/k_Dl-gboTKs/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
Right on! Crack that box open and give it a go. What kind of router did you buy? Side note I’m watching your epoxy resin workbench video right now. I’m liking this idea. Kind of seems like it would be self leveling and give a dead flat work surface. How has it worked out? I haven’t worked with epoxy resin yet. Is it a durable surface for a workbench?
@@JFKreations Hi, it's durable insofar as solvents, acids, bases are concerned. IE they won't seep into your wood. It's not very scratch resistant. As for perfect leveling, if you start with a flat surface, and don't add any filler to the resin, you could potentially get it flat. I did not achieve this!
Jake Qwaninne if I may quote @jimmydiresta “if it looks straight, it is straight” Thanks for stopping by and I’m glad you got a laugh out of my bad acting!
Great job of explaining everything...it was well thought out. The only problem for me was watching how close your fingers were to the blade, yikes. Stay safe young man.
Directionality is definitely an important consideration when routing. But this video is more directly intended to help take some of the guesswork and potential for mistakes out of routing, which can be intimidating for new woodworkers. This way they can focus more on the project and not have to focus so much on some of the more complicated details and techniques for using power tools like a router. But thanks for sharing that tip, also good information for the maker community. Thanks for watching.
I know how to use a straight edge. But some people, beginners specifically, may be intimated by a router. This can be a way to get past the intimidation factor and help someone get started. I see similar comments like yours on this video. Makes me wonder if everyone who makes a similar comment doesn’t realize that not everyone out there is at their same comfort level or experience. Seems to me comments like yours will only serve to make you feel superior, stroke your ego like you’re going to teach me something and discourage beginners to give something a try. While my video does the opposite by giving a beginner a cheap method that may help them get started. Thanks for another useless comment.
There are a lot of different ways to cut curves, but it depends on the size of the workpiece and what tools you have available. Using a curved template and a router is one way, using a band saw or jigsaw cutting close to your line then sanding to the line for that perfect radius is another. I don’t have any videos on my channel highlighting these techniques but here’s one that might put you in the right direction ua-cam.com/video/2U4Op1wWo34/v-deo.htmlsi=lvcqXUpoJEHz-JID
@@JFKreations I appreciate your quick reply but I didn't frame my question appropriately sorry. What I mean was that this video shows how to use a router on a straight line; what if I need to use the same handheld router to perform a moulding along a curved line that has already been cut with a jigsaw? This video shows how to design a guide to work the router along a straight line; how about a curved line? I hope I phrased the question more accurately and can hopefully receive a helpful answer. Thanks
Thanks for checking out the video. Here's a link to the bucket mounted dust separator amzn.to/2KmBmbe It works really well and is a lot less expensive than most of the other separators out there.
Bummer! May have to write them a strongly worded letter. All is not lost though, I can offer you this. I made another video showing how to make a homemade dust collector (cyclone) out of a bucket and common PVC plumbing pipe and fittings. Video link here ua-cam.com/video/c7-NpKsmPCw/v-deo.html The bucket mounted shop vacuum shown in this video isn't the most powerful vacuum, it gets the job done for light duty dust collection, but no worries you can take the basic design of the dust collection bucket and adapt it to fit any shop vacuum to meet your needs. Here's the link to that bucket mounted shop vacuum if you want to look at it too, but who knows if it's available in Canada amzn.to/2Kn6OX6 I also have links and a shopping list for all the pipe and fittings you'll need in the description below the video.
Parallax distortion, blade deflection, a pencil that’s not perfectly sharpened, all little things that can introduce small errors in the final cut. Normally in woodworking there is a certain acceptable tolerance for these little errors, but in a thing like this exact is required. Much better to sneak up on the exact fit, you are looking for. Measure,, mark and cut on a thing like this, you might get lucky and get it perfect on the first try so go for it
Ah thanks. Are you asking if I’ll stop by and turn up the volume on your device for you? I’m usually happy to help my viewers when I can, but that’s a tall request!
tojeres you’re darn right I did. But for a good cause, to make it even more awesome than it already was by installing the cheapest T Track I could find on the internet. I think it could be one of the cheapest and most useful work benches/outfeed tables possible.
Yeah, I guess your math equation is much simpler. Or you could quit worrying about math formulas and just get out in the shop and make some sawdust. Better yet, you can make a video showing us all the best way to do this since you seem to know better. All I can say is I’ve used this method for years on large surfaces like this table, set up is quick, cost is low and I always get perfect results. If you have a better way without having to buy or make some sort of router jig, let’s see it.
Good question. If you just use the router to set up your guides, since it’s just one point of contact for the guides, it will act as a pivot point. So if you bring the guides inward toward each other on the end where you have the router, the guides on the opposite end will spread apart, and vice versa. You can get it done that way, but you would have to adjust one end of the guides to fit the router, then move the router to the other end and adjust the guides, then move the router back to the other end again, adjust, back and forth over and over, until you get the guides lined up “good enough”. But if you use the blocks, one at each end, it’s a quick set it and forget it.
@@JFKreations i paint cars, we have similar terms, although i've built a few guitars (solid electric, i won't mess with those no amp thingies), i'm relatively new to wood in the building aspect, and i would like to not need a 6 pack and a shot to get the router out, i'm all about guides and precise from doin cars, but maybe i'm expecting a little too high a tollerance with wood, i was talking to a guy from charvel guitars, and he was saying, "it's a living thing, every time you make a cut it moves , and there's no real science to what it's gonna do",so any help is welcomed
Jake Qwaninne painting cars, musical instruments, those do require a high degree of precision. But woodworking, you can get away with a lot, wood filler is your friend. And as @jimmydiresta would say, “if it looks straight, it is straight” or even better when all else fails, do what @steveramsey does, “just turn the crappy side toward the wall”. Get the table saw and router out, you’ll be just fine.
Be honest ... you will soon abandon it. Just not worth the set up. Just use one straight guide and push the router slowly so the edge is always touching the router base. It is really too exaggerated to have crooked dado grooves.
I definitely will not abandon this method. When I’m cutting very long dados on a horizontal surface like the 4 foot and 8 foot long dados on this work table, I absolutely use this method. In fact I use a similar method of ensuring a dead straight long cut with my circular saw as well. For instance if I have to resize a door and need to shave just a fraction of an inch off the width, I always take the time to set up and stabilize my cutting guides to ensure a dead straight cut rather than just being careful, going slow and hoping it comes out ok. Maybe my work requires a higher level of precision. Of course the crazy crooked cut at the beginning was exaggerated for entertainment purposes
I'm used to larger, corded routers ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Ok I’ll go along with that, as long as you promise to buy a track saw or one of those Bora set ups for anyone that watches this video but can’t afford to buy it themselves. All comments like yours do, saying just go out and buy a tool, is discourage people out there who may not be able to afford extra fancy tools from enjoying a hobby that can already be intimidating. Nicely done.
There are. In woodworking there are countless ways to do the same thing. This is one way, that works perfectly everytime. And like most things, if you’re going to do a thing, might as well do it right. The first time. If you’re looking for super efficient ways to do woodworking, then I would assume you’re getting into professional production when efficiency actually matters. For weekend warriors, efficiency is less important than doing it right and getting perfect results.
This is the most ridiculous comment, I have ever seen. I made a video that may help people, which has value. You made a comment that adds nothing, has no value, and helps no one, except your own ego. You do understand that there are beginners out there that may be intimated by just using a straight edge, this could help a lot of people. But I guess you’re an expert and know best. So, if you are so special and know how to do things better, make your own video then.
Because because because because because because not everyone has a router table and man handling a full 48”x96” sheet of melamine on a router table would be a nitemare. But hey have fun.
Spacers shouldn’t ever be off, since there cut to fit. Ruler doesn’t matter either, as long as you use the same measuring device throughout an entire project doesn’t matter if the measurements are true to standards of weights and measures, it basically is just a story stick. Now if you mix and match measuring devices throughout a project, yeah you could run into trouble if they aren’t identical
@@hernandotatis1302 can’t help you that. Can’t be so timid and afraid to make a mistake if you want to be a woodworker. Not really sure what you’re getting at with all these “yeah but…” statements. Quit looking for problems that don’t exist and get in the shop
@@hernandotatis1302 ah, that I can help with. Stop by the hardware store or your local big box, grab a roll of duct tape, tear off a piece about 4” or 5” inches long and place it over your mouth. The weight will start to drop instantly and you’ll fit through that door in no time!
Snoitch = unit of measurement. Learned something new today👍
Jeff Huebner yes sir, it’s part way between a wee bit and a smidge. All highly technical woodworking terms of course. Thanks for checking out the video!
ExpertOfSound alright, if I had a trophy for best comment from a viewer, you would be grand champion for life! Nicely done, love that you weaved the Grinch into that eloquent soliloquy, and that’s no easy feat.
I believe this term translates to "Scosh" in grandpa-speak
I have looked all over youtube for this exact video....thank you!
@@killacuz3 you’re welcome, glad I could help
@@JFKreations Hey, what if you are cutting on a curved line like an arched top door?
Snoitch! That’s a better unit of measurement than some crude ones I’ve heard in the past which I don’t care to repeat in the comment! I don’t have a plunge router like yours but even with a trim router, it’s worth going through the process of setting up a proper guide that is clamped to avoid unnecessary and expensive mishaps. I had to cut a a notch for a demountable hinge in an oak cabinet door and I couldn’t find a perfect hinge for the job but with creativity and multiple tools, I got the job done with zero errors!👌🏽
Fun fact, a snoitch was a common unit of measurement of the ancient sumerians. Ah those sumarians, excellent wood workers. And that’s a fact, because science. Nice work on making it happen with a little ingenuity on your project. Thanks for watching!
One of the best router tips I have ever heard. You just earned a new sub. Cheers Mate!!
Right on, always appreciate a new sub. Also love sub sandwiches too. Happy routing.
Thank you this is the best router guiding your router video I have seen I don’t think even I could screw this system up which I normally do most times I have do routing
Nice! Let me know how it works out
Very clever idea. Simple but sophisticated. And cheap!
Alain Gardner simple, sophisticated and cheap, three words that could be used to not only describe this little router trick, but it could probably be used to describe me too, I think. Thanks for checking out the video, keep on routing and rolling!
Thanks very much for this video. It was very informative and easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. I will now proceed to buy a CNC 😆
Spend that money
Thank you my friend from a newbie in the land of Oz 🇦🇺 making his first slots for T Track … 😊
The Land of Oz, nice! Think you’re the first commenter from Australia, love it. How did your t track turn out?
got my new (small) handheld router. This video is really good for router beginner like me. Thanks for sharing!
Right on. Now that you have a router, do you agree that a router is the most annoying sound, ever? Weeeeeehhhhhh!
Great idea! I already watched a few videos about "how to cut grooves for T-track" that turned into "how I repaired my messed up grooves" videos. I'm going to use your method.
Awesome. Hope you find it useful
Thank you, for making my life easy!!!!!
You got it. Thanks for checking out the video.
I like that. Thanks for the video.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching
When I searched "cut grooves for t track", your video came up. Thank you! I volunteered to make the new router table at our local maker space. After pulling my hair out to get the hole for the router lift cut out with the rabbet at the right depth for a flush fit, my next task is to cut the dadoes for T-track for the fence to ride in. I will follow the steps in your video tomorrow.
Right on, Ian! Knowing that my method is going to be used to help create even one part of a maker space, makes me feel like I’ve done something impactful for the whole maker community. I hope you’ll come back and let me know how it turned out, maybe even email me a couple pictures!
So what happened , did you have to go out to get a wig ?...did ya ?
totally saved my project with this! thank you!! keep the videos coming!!
betsy milam right on! Glad I could help. How did your project turn out?
Well you sure make that look easy! Thanks!
You got it! Thanks for checking out the video.
Have to agree with j about running the router in the opposite direction. Nothing wrong with the way you did it except the time involved, but if your time is worth anything $$$ there is nothing wrong with being fast & accurate.
This method is more for beginners, not experts or professionals trying to make money
Brilliant. Neat simple and solid concept put to work. Congrats and tks for sharing.
Brilliant! Well that may be a stretch, but I definitely appreciate the thought. I’m glad you find it useful and thanks for checking out the video.
Great video for beginners
Thank you, it can be a lot to set up, but may help a few people get over the intimidation of using a router. Then they can graduate to more advanced techniques
Been looking for a video on this subject and material for a long time. Thank you for making this!
Jeff you’re welcome Jeff! It’s a handy little trick and my favorite part is you can make it out of scrap wood. Simple, inexpensive and effective, how can you go wrong? Thanks for stopping by and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. Happy routing!
Thank you! I am working on building some cabinets/bookshelves, and they are too big for me to groove out on my table saw....so I got a router, and have been trying to figure out how to make sure I get a straight line...this is awesome, and I really appreciate it.
You’re welcome. It does take a little setup, but once you’re dialed in, just rout ~n~ go!
@@JFKreations better a little setup than wasting an 8 foot section of birch bookcase that will not have to be used for scrap/shelves. :)
You speak the truth there!
Brilliant video, very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks I appreciate that. Glad you found this useful.
Just what i need, thanks
Glad I could help!
I used your method of spacer jigs in addition to Dave Stanton's dado jig which uses a TSO guide rail square and a Festool guide rail. It worked very well. Thanks for the one weird "spacer" trick professionals don't want you to know!
You’re welcome. That’s creative combining two techniques to work for you. Nicely done! Thanks for watching.
Great vid. Loved the idea of mid track supports too.
Hey thanks! The mid track supports definitely help, especially with these particular cutting guides. They tend to flex a little when you connect two together for long runs. Hope you’re able to find this useful in your shop. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment and thanks for the support! Now, get out there and make some sawdust.
Awesome idea. Thanks
You’re welcome. Hope you find it helpful in the shop!
Dude you truly make amazing content keep it up 😴🔥🤙
Well thank you sir. Sorry took so long to respond, UA-cam filtered this comment out for some reason and I just now found it! Ah, the algorithm strikes again. Anyway thanks for watching!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the lesson. Very practical for the occasional project! I don't have a big table saw.
Thank God for your example. On the last guy, he had Car bomb commercials on its site. Thanks for your info
Car bomb commercials? Doesn’t sound good. Glad I could help
@JFKreations lol he was 45 acting 18. I'm sure you can find him lol. But you gave me lots of knowledge to build on
I'm a handyman had took on a large free standing shelving unit job. I didn't like the inch and a half gap between each unit. I made a few jigs and the seem to work. But on a scrap run it produced a lot of smoke and took to much pressure. An unsafe amount. I'm cutting small inserts to inset basically 2x4's as the structure. Leaving a 3/4 inlay to cover the layers of plywood. Jigs are working well. But my 40 piece router kit is letting me down. Lol so I ordered flush cut bits I think will help.
Very good
Jim Feaster Thanks Jim, glad you liked the video. Thanks for stopping by!
Hi. Any advice on how to not burn the bits on long cuts of laminate boards? I've used quality bits, but after 1 meter (going slowly) the bit is starting to burn and chop the laminate. Thank you!
Take multiple passes lowering the bit a little more with each pass until you reach the depth you are looking for
Can you tell me what you’re using for that dust collection setup? I’d love to pick up one of those bucket dust collectors if I can find one. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for checking out the video. Here's the link for the Dust Stopper bucket lid dust separator homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=302643445&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FDustopper-High-Efficiency-Dust-Separator-12-in-Dia-with-2-5-in-Hose-36-in-Long-HD12%2F302643445&intsrc=PUI1_2950 and the shop vacuum is homedepot.sjv.io/c/1343238/459920/8154?prodsku=304006023&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.com%2Fp%2FRIDGID-12-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Filter-Hose-and-Accessories-HD1200%2F304006023&intsrc=PUI1_2950 The hose I'm using is from Rockler www.rockler.com/dust-right-flexiport-power-tool-hose-kit-3-to-12-expandable
Hope you don't mind me throwing in my 2 cents but you can also built your own and save a few bucks. Just look up DIY cyclone dust collector here on you tube. I had a paint bucket laying around and some 1 inch schedule 40 pvc laying around. All I needed was some pvc 45 degree angles some straight pvc connectors, pvc glue and a couple of rubber plumbing connectors. Cost about 20 bucks and works great!
Will there be tear out or chip off in the melamine board?
There can be. Laying down some masking tape can limit or in some cases eliminate tear out
I have a question about routing plywood for a T-Track, the plywood has knots in it which I cannot avoid in my design. Without having to pay for premium plywood (that is pretty much Knotless) but twice the expense $$ how do you suggest getting a clean cut through knots in the wood or am I dreaming and it can't be done?
Might be tough, but rather than looking for a perfect cut, use it as an opportunity to try a new method. You could fill any blown out knot holes with colored cyanoacrylate glue
Lol. I am a newbie. Actually your "exaggerated cut" was very much like mine. Plus I'm using a melamine top 4 my matchfit project. This is going 2 make me crazy by the time it's over. Personally, I use tish & tosh. Tosh is obviously more than tish.
I will try ur method.
Correction: not tosh, tad
Good deal. Let me know how it goes!
Thanks. just what I needed. I'm avoiding buying the Bosch Professional FSN OFA 32 Kit 800 FSN.
Jason Gairn had to look that one up. Looks like it may be a decent system, but expensive. I’m glad I saved you from having spend a bunch of money. Happy routing!
The FSN system saves me a ton of time, and I totally recommend it. And note that adjustment screw on the router adapter, with multiple passes you easily do any width with the same bit. Add the plunge saw, router adapter, and jig saw adapter on this common rail system and its worth it. 👍
Already have the router jig. (Got it years ago. Need a longer track piece for the bookcases.)
Did you find a solution?
@@JFKreations yes. Had to replace jig *and* guide pieces, largely in the belief that the jig is tied to one brand and style of guide track.
Required a fresh router bit to cut straight lines, as in birch ply takes the edge off in a big hurry, and that using name-brand - Whiteside - router bits!
I need to keep a close eye on such cutters.
@@dennisyoung4631 good deal. Glad you got it squared away.
I have to cut 2 parallel dado cuts along an 8 foot / 96 inch table top. Your method works for the dado cut that is near the middle of the table but what about one that is close to the edge? For example were I want to cut, the router hangs off the edge of the table a bit so I cant place a second cutting guide. Do you have any tips / tricks for this scenario? This is so I can install T-Track onto the table with one of the tracks maybe 1--4 inches from the edge of the table.
Matrix8369 did your router come with an edge guide?
Router edge guide. It's exactly what this is made for.
For a novice router this is a very interesting video. However, I can see how the technique works on a large board with the dado located away from the edge. I am trying (not very successfully or accurately) to cut a dado in a smaller board and close to the edge, and am having trouble setting up the router. The board approximately 2ft (600mm) x 1ft (300mm) and I want a dado cut across the narrow width ie across 1ft (300mm). The dado should be 3/4" (18mm) wide and 3/8" (8mm) deep located 1" (25mm) from one short edge. Would appreciate any advice and/or direction to another of your videos that covers this type of work.
Thanks for your videos.
imarr 17 thanks for checking out the video. Without getting too crazy with creative jigs to do what you’re trying to do, I can think of a couple ways to get that dado close to the edge. If you’re getting into woodworking, and it sounds like you are, this might be a good excuse to buy or make a router table. You can find some fairly affordable basic tables or go all out and lay down some serious money for one. There are also a lot of DIY how to videos out there showing how to make one. The other way would be on a table saw. You could either use a dado stack, or get a flat bottom grind blade and just make multiple passes moving the board slightly each time until the dado is the right width. You’ll want to use your miter gauge on the table saw to support the board as you make the cuts. Hope this helps! Thanks for stopping by.
You can also cut the dado on a table saw if you have 1.
Shannon P Shannon P definitely a good option for smaller workpieces. I wouldn’t want to try it on a full 4’x8’ sheet of 3/4” melamine like on this workbench though, that wouldn’t be much fun. Thanks for checking out the channel.
Maybe put another piece of wood the same thickness of the piece you're trying to cut the dado in, next to it so it supports the router?
Make a crosscut sled for your table saw. It'll handle tasks like this with ease.
Great vid, Jeremy! I'm a beginner (self teaching... if that's actually a thing) but have lofty aspirations to be a decent woodworker someday. Excuse me if I ask a dumb question, but here goes... I've watched your vid 4 times now and I noticed you didn't move your guides over to widen the cut to the width of the t-track. Is that because the router bit you used was a sufficient size for the job, therefore making it unnecessary to adjust your initial set up? If so, what size and type router bit did you use?
Sunny Woodard 4 times? I’m flattered and thanks for checking out my channel. That’s actually a really good question about the T-track. To cut that dado I just used a 3/4” straight router bit. Most T-track, at least all the T-track I’ve come across, is 3/4” wide so one pass width wise will do it. I do recommend taking a few passes to get to the depth you need though to not overwork the router and bonus you can also sneak up on that perfect depth for a smooth install. Hope that helps - Happy Woodworking!
@@JFKreations Very helpful! Thanks for responding.
Sunny Woodard you’re welcome. Hope your project turns out great.
Jeremy- I have had several disasters as your example shows. I am using a 4 foot level clamped to my work surface. The router vibrations are moving the clamped piece! Sometimes by as much as 1/4 inch. Any suggestions for stopping this movement? I am stumped. I dont want to nail it down to my work bench but I dont know how to prevent this movement. Thanks for any guidance on this.
Dave Blew couple thoughts come to mind. Anytime you’re using any type of jig that you’re struggling with it staying in place, you can take a little spray adhesive and attach some sand paper to the backside of the jig (router guide). That will give it some good grip and keep it from sliding around. If you need next level grip, short of nailing it down, you can try some double sided tape. But beyond that I would want to look at why your router is vibrating so much and causing this problem in the first place . Personally I’ve not seen a router vibrate so badly that it throws the guides like what you’re describing. If the work surface you’re working on isn’t solid and can’t absorb vibrations well, maybe that’s why you’re seeing this. Also make sure your clamps have good pads on the grip surface so they don’t slip. Also take a look at the clamps themselves, make sure they aren’t loosening up on you. Really cheap clamps sometimes don’t hold that great. And finally make sure you set that cross brace well, that should help the router guide from flexing and moving. Hope this helps.
I know this was 2 yrs a g ..you could get the clamps that claim 4 tons of clamping power
Hi what is the material you are using for your work table?
ISA IAH I’m using 3/4” melamine as the top over 3/4” MDF to give it some heft. Thanks for checking out the video!
Great Video. What router bit did you use? I am doing the exact same thing and the melamine coated mdf chewed up my carbide tipped bit after making 2 grooves and I have to make 6 more :)
Thanks! I use the Diablo router bits. They aren't the absolute best out there, but for the price, you can't go wrong. I've had good luck with Diablo bits and blades and they're easy to find.
Should be able to cut 50 dadoes with any carbide bit before you’d even notice it getting dull..
Did you get the bit shipped from china ?
Omg thank you!!
Den Henson you’re welcome, he said, enthusiastically, with 2 exclamation points!!
JFKreations 🍻
How to repair the damage you did in the first minute ? Was it a mistake to router film faced plywood, the top of my saw table ?
Steve Trueblue Steve Trueblue thanks for checking out the video. I’m not 100% clear on what you’re asking though. Are you saying you have a table saw that has film faced plywood for the table surface and accidentally routed a groove into it?
@@JFKreations I tried to router 3/4 inch groove in film faced plywood tablesaw top but much tear-out occurred to my utter surprise and disappointment. Router beginner I am. Used only the saw fence as a guide. Its nearly as bad as your demo. Only 3 mm deep per run. Is film faced ply (only made for concreting) a bad choice for neat routering ? Yours is the only video comes close to answering this question.
Steve Trueblue when I’m routering plywood or melamine to prevent tear out I put down a layer of masking tape and set the router depth to just barely cut through the veneer on the first pass. This usually works very well on plywood. On the melamine it helps minimize chip out but sometimes a little chip out still happens. But for something like a work bench, like in this video, a little chip out doesn’t matter because it’s going to get beat up from use as a workbench anyway. For your situation to fix, about the only thing you can do is clean up the groove as best as you can and fill it with an inlay strip. I’m not sure if film faced plywood is an especially bad choice for routering, I haven’t ever had the need to router this type of plywood. If you do try again a couple things you can look for. Make sure your router bit is a quality bit and is sharp without any build up of pitch or resin from previous use, if there is build up clean the bit before you use it, then try the masking tape method, also do some test cuts on scrap to find the appropriate speed and finally check the grain orientation. If you can arrange the plywood so you are running the router with the grain, not across the grain, it should help minimize tear out too. Sorry I can’t give you a definitive answer but I hope this helps give you a few things to try.
is that the dewalt 12” miter saw? if so could you make a table on your miter station i like your design 🤟🏼
Jay Alvey Jay Alvey it sure is the 12” DEWALT sliding miter saw. Thanks for checking out the video, but I’m not sure what you’re asking about building a table on the miter station? That table I’m currently using for a miter station is a reclaimed standing desk that was destined for the trash. I gave it a second life in my shop. I did build the dust collection hood though. If you want to check that build out click this link ua-cam.com/video/k_Dl-gboTKs/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
DIY The Art of Wood much appreciated keep up the great work brotha
Jay Alvey will do, and thanks again for watching!
Pretty good tip. I haven't yet taken my router out of its box, but once I do, I might have to give this a try!
Right on! Crack that box open and give it a go. What kind of router did you buy? Side note I’m watching your epoxy resin workbench video right now. I’m liking this idea. Kind of seems like it would be self leveling and give a dead flat work surface. How has it worked out? I haven’t worked with epoxy resin yet. Is it a durable surface for a workbench?
@@JFKreations Hi, it's durable insofar as solvents, acids, bases are concerned. IE they won't seep into your wood. It's not very scratch resistant. As for perfect leveling, if you start with a flat surface, and don't add any filler to the resin, you could potentially get it flat. I did not achieve this!
It looked pretty slick though. Interesting idea worth experimenting with
@@Made2hack If the table/form is level and the resin is slow setting, it should flow out smooth and straight?
ok, so it's more of a stream bed, it looked ok against that t square,lol,lmao, i don't know why, but that really made me laugh, thanx
Jake Qwaninne if I may quote @jimmydiresta “if it looks straight, it is straight” Thanks for stopping by and I’m glad you got a laugh out of my bad acting!
Great job of explaining everything...it was well thought out.
The only problem for me was watching how close your fingers were to the blade, yikes.
Stay safe young man.
Thankfully I still have all 10. Where on the video was I too close? Might have to go back and watch
Or you could route in the other direction so that the rotation of the router pushes into your straight edge.
Directionality is definitely an important consideration when routing. But this video is more directly intended to help take some of the guesswork and potential for mistakes out of routing, which can be intimidating for new woodworkers. This way they can focus more on the project and not have to focus so much on some of the more complicated details and techniques for using power tools like a router. But thanks for sharing that tip, also good information for the maker community. Thanks for watching.
Put your straight edge nearest you and the rotation of the bit forces the router into the straight edge. Not a lot but enough to maintain control.
I know how to use a straight edge. But some people, beginners specifically, may be intimated by a router. This can be a way to get past the intimidation factor and help someone get started. I see similar comments like yours on this video. Makes me wonder if everyone who makes a similar comment doesn’t realize that not everyone out there is at their same comfort level or experience. Seems to me comments like yours will only serve to make you feel superior, stroke your ego like you’re going to teach me something and discourage beginners to give something a try. While my video does the opposite by giving a beginner a cheap method that may help them get started. Thanks for another useless comment.
Back when MDF was cheap ❤
The good old days
Hey, what if you are cutting on a curved line like an arched top door?
There are a lot of different ways to cut curves, but it depends on the size of the workpiece and what tools you have available. Using a curved template and a router is one way, using a band saw or jigsaw cutting close to your line then sanding to the line for that perfect radius is another. I don’t have any videos on my channel highlighting these techniques but here’s one that might put you in the right direction ua-cam.com/video/2U4Op1wWo34/v-deo.htmlsi=lvcqXUpoJEHz-JID
@@JFKreations I appreciate your quick reply but I didn't frame my question appropriately sorry. What I mean was that this video shows how to use a router on a straight line; what if I need to use the same handheld router to perform a moulding along a curved line that has already been cut with a jigsaw? This video shows how to design a guide to work the router along a straight line; how about a curved line? I hope I phrased the question more accurately and can hopefully receive a helpful answer. Thanks
@africanhairdressing6391 do you mean just putting a profile like a round over or a chamfer along the edge?
@@JFKreations Yes, along a curved or sinuous edge
@@africanhairdressing6391 the guide bearing on the router bit should follow along the edge regardless if it’s a straight edge or has a curve
Where did you get that cyclone bucket topper?
Thanks for checking out the video. Here's a link to the bucket mounted dust separator amzn.to/2KmBmbe It works really well and is a lot less expensive than most of the other separators out there.
@@JFKreations Thanks! Sadly, doesn't look like it's available in Canada :(
Bummer! May have to write them a strongly worded letter. All is not lost though, I can offer you this. I made another video showing how to make a homemade dust collector (cyclone) out of a bucket and common PVC plumbing pipe and fittings. Video link here ua-cam.com/video/c7-NpKsmPCw/v-deo.html The bucket mounted shop vacuum shown in this video isn't the most powerful vacuum, it gets the job done for light duty dust collection, but no worries you can take the basic design of the dust collection bucket and adapt it to fit any shop vacuum to meet your needs. Here's the link to that bucket mounted shop vacuum if you want to look at it too, but who knows if it's available in Canada amzn.to/2Kn6OX6 I also have links and a shopping list for all the pipe and fittings you'll need in the description below the video.
Why wouldn't you just measure the diameter of your router base and make your spacers that exact measurement? You're creating an unnecessary step.
Parallax distortion, blade deflection, a pencil that’s not perfectly sharpened, all little things that can introduce small errors in the final cut. Normally in woodworking there is a certain acceptable tolerance for these little errors, but in a thing like this exact is required. Much better to sneak up on the exact fit, you are looking for. Measure,, mark and cut on a thing like this, you might get lucky and get it perfect on the first try so go for it
good vid, just a bit more volume please
Ah thanks. Are you asking if I’ll stop by and turn up the volume on your device for you? I’m usually happy to help my viewers when I can, but that’s a tall request!
“A snoitch longer”? Never heard that one before.
Very precise unit of measurement. Technical term that’s more than a bit but less than a bunch.
You've cut your work table ?
tojeres you’re darn right I did. But for a good cause, to make it even more awesome than it already was by installing the cheapest T Track I could find on the internet. I think it could be one of the cheapest and most useful work benches/outfeed tables possible.
Pretty complicated - then multiply by the number of dadoes on the board - then the same number on the opposite side of the cabinet...
Yeah, I guess your math equation is much simpler. Or you could quit worrying about math formulas and just get out in the shop and make some sawdust. Better yet, you can make a video showing us all the best way to do this since you seem to know better. All I can say is I’ve used this method for years on large surfaces like this table, set up is quick, cost is low and I always get perfect results. If you have a better way without having to buy or make some sort of router jig, let’s see it.
Why not just use the router rather than cutting blocks to set your guides?
Good question. If you just use the router to set up your guides, since it’s just one point of contact for the guides, it will act as a pivot point. So if you bring the guides inward toward each other on the end where you have the router, the guides on the opposite end will spread apart, and vice versa. You can get it done that way, but you would have to adjust one end of the guides to fit the router, then move the router to the other end and adjust the guides, then move the router back to the other end again, adjust, back and forth over and over, until you get the guides lined up “good enough”. But if you use the blocks, one at each end, it’s a quick set it and forget it.
@@JFKreations Good answer!
you’ll be 98 years old by the time you finish a book case or need multiple dados.
Thanks for your useless comment
i used this method but forgot to leave it a snoitch too big , DAMMED SNOITCH !!!! 😭😭
Beware the snoitch!
Yeah but what if the spacers are off and the ruler you bought is from china , and a nd and and
I guess then you give up
so a snoich is ????? somewhere between a ? and a >
Jake Qwaninne about half way between a wee bit and a smidge. Very, very technical scientific terminology, not for the lay person of course.
@@JFKreations i paint cars, we have similar terms, although i've built a few guitars (solid electric, i won't mess with those no amp thingies), i'm relatively new to wood in the building aspect, and i would like to not need a 6 pack and a shot to get the router out, i'm all about guides and precise from doin cars, but maybe i'm expecting a little too high a tollerance with wood, i was talking to a guy from charvel guitars, and he was saying, "it's a living thing, every time you make a cut it moves , and there's no real science to what it's gonna do",so any help is welcomed
Jake Qwaninne painting cars, musical instruments, those do require a high degree of precision. But woodworking, you can get away with a lot, wood filler is your friend. And as @jimmydiresta would say, “if it looks straight, it is straight” or even better when all else fails, do what @steveramsey does, “just turn the crappy side toward the wall”. Get the table saw and router out, you’ll be just fine.
Be honest ... you will soon abandon it. Just not worth the set up. Just use one straight guide and push the router slowly so the edge is always touching the router base. It is really too exaggerated to have crooked dado grooves.
I definitely will not abandon this method. When I’m cutting very long dados on a horizontal surface like the 4 foot and 8 foot long dados on this work table, I absolutely use this method. In fact I use a similar method of ensuring a dead straight long cut with my circular saw as well. For instance if I have to resize a door and need to shave just a fraction of an inch off the width, I always take the time to set up and stabilize my cutting guides to ensure a dead straight cut rather than just being careful, going slow and hoping it comes out ok. Maybe my work requires a higher level of precision. Of course the crazy crooked cut at the beginning was exaggerated for entertainment purposes
0:13 makes you wanna quit right there
Never quit
I forgot to go a snoitch longer and went a skosh instead.
Sometimes only a skosh will do
Never heard of a ‘snoich’.
Highly technical woodworking unit of measurement. The snoitch.
I'm used to larger, corded routers ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Right on!
Skip to 5:10
This is unnecessarily complicated. Just buy the Bora track system or get a track saw rail and track router guide.
Ok I’ll go along with that, as long as you promise to buy a track saw or one of those Bora set ups for anyone that watches this video but can’t afford to buy it themselves. All comments like yours do, saying just go out and buy a tool, is discourage people out there who may not be able to afford extra fancy tools from enjoying a hobby that can already be intimidating. Nicely done.
Dude it's effective no doubt but if you have to make several cuts this is not time effective. There must be a more practical way.
There are. In woodworking there are countless ways to do the same thing. This is one way, that works perfectly everytime. And like most things, if you’re going to do a thing, might as well do it right. The first time. If you’re looking for super efficient ways to do woodworking, then I would assume you’re getting into professional production when efficiency actually matters. For weekend warriors, efficiency is less important than doing it right and getting perfect results.
Snoitch?
Yes, a snoitch.
😂😂😂😂 Do a couese in video instruction please
What? You’re comment doesn’t make any sense
This must be the most ridiculous plan, I have ever seen. You only need ONE straight edge. Learn how to NOT MANHADLE a router. OMG
This is the most ridiculous comment, I have ever seen. I made a video that may help people, which has value. You made a comment that adds nothing, has no value, and helps no one, except your own ego. You do understand that there are beginners out there that may be intimated by just using a straight edge, this could help a lot of people. But I guess you’re an expert and know best. So, if you are so special and know how to do things better, make your own video then.
Bro you've done more wore setting up...totally unnecessary
Works for me, perfect every time.
how to complicate a cut guide lol
Yeah, like bowling with bumpers.
Too fussy
Make your own video, without the fuss
WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY WOULD I WANT TO GO THRU ALL THAT SHIT WHEN I CAN JUST USE THE DAMN ROUTER TABLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Because because because because because because not everyone has a router table and man handling a full 48”x96” sheet of melamine on a router table would be a nitemare. But hey have fun.
Is this video sponsored by the government 🤔 cause you have over analyzed the crap out of a simple task 😢😢
Yeah but what if the spacers are off and the ruler you bought is from china , and a nd and and
Spacers shouldn’t ever be off, since there cut to fit. Ruler doesn’t matter either, as long as you use the same measuring device throughout an entire project doesn’t matter if the measurements are true to standards of weights and measures, it basically is just a story stick. Now if you mix and match measuring devices throughout a project, yeah you could run into trouble if they aren’t identical
@@JFKreations yeah but what about Murphy and his law
@@hernandotatis1302 can’t help you that. Can’t be so timid and afraid to make a mistake if you want to be a woodworker. Not really sure what you’re getting at with all these “yeah but…” statements. Quit looking for problems that don’t exist and get in the shop
@@JFKreations yeah but what if im too fat to get through the door of the so called shop
@@hernandotatis1302 ah, that I can help with. Stop by the hardware store or your local big box, grab a roll of duct tape, tear off a piece about 4” or 5” inches long and place it over your mouth. The weight will start to drop instantly and you’ll fit through that door in no time!