I used this on my 33000 gallon pool . I put the putty in a ziplock bag to prevent it from clouding my pool and then applied it to my holes on floor pool and It really minimized the cloudiness when working the plaster on holes. It really works
Just did a few very success repairs using Leslies Patch-it. Here are my observations: * Surface coating will flake off eventually so make sure you chip out and have some depth to assure adhesion. It adheres best to rough clean surface. * Drained is easiest but it also works great underwater. Underwater: * I did a spot just like he did in the video. My first patch I got around the clouding by wearing a mask. using a trowel that was wider than the hole to smooth off the patch. Since I knew it would be cloudy, using a trowel that was wider than the hole to smooth off the patch. I knew I wouldn’t be able to visualize the repair so the wide trowel let me smooth out the repair level with the existing plaster with looking at it. Additionally I placed objects on the four sides of the whole as visual guides so I would know where the repair was and where the edges of the patch would be. I did a quick practice run without material so didn’t have to guess. To apply, I put a handful in the hole, trowel it level, and then surfaced to grab and place another handful, repeating multiple times until the void was filled and leveled smooth. Yes, I had to fan it a lot, the guides really helped. * I just did a second underwater repair and overcame the clouding problem by using the pool vacuum hose with the pool pump running at max speed. I took off the vacuum and tied a 5 pound weight a couple of feet up the hose. I placed the end of the hose close to the repair spot. When I was prepping it I could suck up all the debris. When I was applying the patch, it sucked up the cloud and extra patch material. Just make sure you don't get to close o the repair or it will suck the Patch-it out of the repair Much simpler approach. * You can trowel the material to virtually a perfect finish. However, I'm a stickler for smooth clean looking finish work, so the next day I used an 80 grit sanding block to smooth things out removing any trowel grooves, humps, depressions etc. I did the same on my above water repairs. Notes: Do wear gloves. He's right weights are a must. I also put a weight on my pool vacuum hose positioning close to the repair to suck up the cloud. I cleaned up (scooped with a trowel, hand broom and dust pan) excess material, to minimize debris going into my filter. If you do enough you’ll probably have to clean the filter afterwards.
Thanks for the info! I saw this product at Leslie's and knew someone on UA-cam gave it a try already. I have some smaller areas I might give it a try with but I'll probably wait until I drain it this fall. Thanks again.
That it seems to be a good product. We purchase the house and the pool has a couple of holes that need to be patched. I think that in my case I will have to empty the pool completely. I as well will make a video for others to see and learn. Jorge in Florida. Thanks
FYI - I had to drain my pool unexpectedly. I was scare of the water bill. I went online to the utility site and found the rates and did the math. I turned out to only cost me $48 to fill my 18,000 gallon pool. I also learned how to drain it and was surprised by how easy that was. (I only found that out after I paid someone to stand by my pool for 15 minutes and charge me $800) Submersible sump pump. easy peasy... hook up the hose, plug it in...whaa laa....
@@amphoravideo I drained mine here in Texas last year just using the main drain (I shut the separate valves for the two skimmers) and set the filter valve to "waste". The 20,000 or so gallons here in Texas cost me about $350. We did some paint work but this year have seen some bubbles form that eventually ended up as cracks and open areas that need patching. I think we did not let our initial fixes (when the pool was empty) cure properly. We didn't keep the mortar moist. That might have caused the bubbles to form. I am going to try comparing some hydraulic mortar with Patch-It to see if there is any difference. The mortar says it will cure underwater.
For me the bulk of cost to refill with fresh water is adding all the chemicals back in again. That stuff adds up fast. The water cost is similar to yours thank goodness.
Yes, Leslie's told us that and did that on my new and repaired tile. However some patches we did on the floor failed I think because they were just too shallow and my pool vacuum just sucked the patch right off. If you look at the similar product EZ-Patch you'll see they don't recommend for anything less than 3/8" deep and also you need to make sure the patch edges are chipped away to inverted V shape, like an A. That's difficult to do for a shallow patch. There's a video for EZ-Patch that talks more about the technique and that applies to this product too (it might even be the same and just rebranded, I don't know).
Copher Damn? Walls where You pump water out and the bottom seals from the weight and the bottom surface is exposed to the air Large construction jobs on bridge repairs usually
Would this be okay to use to fill cracks around tiles? Tile is at water line, so I could use this around tiles that are not under water. Would that still work, not being under water?
Lol. Honestly, if you need more than a small patch or two, I’d go another route. I’ve actually drained my pool and am doing the rest in open air now. MUCH easier.
@@amphoravideo Did you try this product. I have an area about the same size in the video, I'm going to drain our pool to that area in low end. Want to be sure this product works.
yes. It's an inexpensive bandaid to buy time. Sometimes, one has to make choices. I can resurface the pool...or I can provide for my children. I'd rather focus on my kids for now. Resurfacing can wait.
I think you should drain the pool with a sump pump. You might be losing more water to cracks than it would cost you to drain and fill it, then it would be easier to repair. That surface is in bad shape. I'd be testing every inch with dye to be sure of no leaks.
I used this on my 33000 gallon pool . I put the putty in a ziplock bag to prevent it from clouding my pool and then applied it to my holes on floor pool and It really minimized the cloudiness when working the plaster on holes. It really works
Outstanding idea! I'll be adopting that technique!
Just did a few very success repairs using Leslies Patch-it. Here are my observations:
* Surface coating will flake off eventually so make sure you chip out and have some depth to assure adhesion. It adheres best to rough clean surface.
* Drained is easiest but it also works great underwater.
Underwater:
* I did a spot just like he did in the video. My first patch I got around the clouding by wearing a mask. using a trowel that was wider than the hole to smooth off the patch. Since I knew it would be cloudy, using a trowel that was wider than the hole to smooth off the patch. I knew I wouldn’t be able to visualize the repair so the wide trowel let me smooth out the repair level with the existing plaster with looking at it. Additionally I placed objects on the four sides of the whole as visual guides so I would know where the repair was and where the edges of the patch would be. I did a quick practice run without material so didn’t have to guess. To apply, I put a handful in the hole, trowel it level, and then surfaced to grab and place another handful, repeating multiple times until the void was filled and leveled smooth. Yes, I had to fan it a lot, the guides really helped.
* I just did a second underwater repair and overcame the clouding problem by using the pool vacuum hose with the pool pump running at max speed. I took off the vacuum and tied a 5 pound weight a couple of feet up the hose. I placed the end of the hose close to the repair spot. When I was prepping it I could suck up all the debris. When I was applying the patch, it sucked up the cloud and extra patch material. Just make sure you don't get to close o the repair or it will suck the Patch-it out of the repair Much simpler approach.
* You can trowel the material to virtually a perfect finish. However, I'm a stickler for smooth clean looking finish work, so the next day I used an 80 grit sanding block to smooth things out removing any trowel grooves, humps, depressions etc. I did the same on my above water repairs.
Notes:
Do wear gloves.
He's right weights are a must.
I also put a weight on my pool vacuum hose positioning close to the repair to suck up the cloud. I cleaned up (scooped with a trowel, hand broom and dust pan) excess material, to minimize debris going into my filter. If you do enough you’ll probably have to clean the filter afterwards.
Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Thanks for the info! I saw this product at Leslie's and knew someone on UA-cam gave it a try already. I have some smaller areas I might give it a try with but I'll probably wait until I drain it this fall. Thanks again.
Just what I needed. Thank you for the video!
thank you for your honesty - great job
Excellent instructional video! You're a lifesaver 😁
Darned good video! Thanks for passing on your experience!
Thank You, just what I needed to see
After filling with patch it do we need t9 put epoxy paint and primer it too
Using hydraulic underwater…it’s a trip for sure! Thanks for the vid!
That it seems to be a good product. We purchase the house and the pool has a couple of holes that need to be patched. I think that in my case I will have to empty the pool completely. I as well will make a video for others to see and learn. Jorge in Florida.
Thanks
FYI - I had to drain my pool unexpectedly. I was scare of the water bill. I went online to the utility site and found the rates and did the math. I turned out to only cost me $48 to fill my 18,000 gallon pool. I also learned how to drain it and was surprised by how easy that was. (I only found that out after I paid someone to stand by my pool for 15 minutes and charge me $800) Submersible sump pump. easy peasy... hook up the hose, plug it in...whaa laa....
Interesting. I'll be draining mine in the next year and have wondered about that. thanks!
@@amphoravideo I drained mine here in Texas last year just using the main drain (I shut the separate valves for the two skimmers) and set the filter valve to "waste". The 20,000 or so gallons here in Texas cost me about $350. We did some paint work but this year have seen some bubbles form that eventually ended up as cracks and open areas that need patching. I think we did not let our initial fixes (when the pool was empty) cure properly. We didn't keep the mortar moist. That might have caused the bubbles to form. I am going to try comparing some hydraulic mortar with Patch-It to see if there is any difference. The mortar says it will cure underwater.
For me the bulk of cost to refill with fresh water is adding all the chemicals back in again. That stuff adds up fast. The water cost is similar to yours thank goodness.
If anybody hasn't posted it. I think I've heard that you can contact the city when you drain your pool. One time per year to discount your water bill.
How is it now after 3 years? I really appreciate you shareing this.
can I use silicone instead?
I would be tempted to do a small area at a time.
Will this work on a rough area of plaster pool just to make it smoother?
I imagine it would work well.
Can this product be used as a tile grout after applying missing pieces of tile with thinset? Thank you!
I don't see why you couldn't do that. It's probably not "correct" but I believe it would work just fine.
Yes, Leslie's told us that and did that on my new and repaired tile. However some patches we did on the floor failed I think because they were just too shallow and my pool vacuum just sucked the patch right off. If you look at the similar product EZ-Patch you'll see they don't recommend for anything less than 3/8" deep and also you need to make sure the patch edges are chipped away to inverted V shape, like an A. That's difficult to do for a shallow patch. There's a video for EZ-Patch that talks more about the technique and that applies to this product too (it might even be the same and just rebranded, I don't know).
How long does it dry out if you left some unused cement mixture in the bucket? thanks
Reasonably fast but if it stiffens drop a little water on it and you can keep using it.
Copher Damn?
Walls where You pump water out and the bottom seals from the weight and the bottom surface is exposed to the air
Large construction jobs on bridge repairs usually
Why not show what the end result looks like?
Patches that big I would use hydraulic cement
Mix it a lot better like a drill with paddle. Less cloud
Would this be okay to use to fill cracks around tiles? Tile is at water line, so I could use this around tiles that are not under water. Would that still work, not being under water?
Understanding that I'm not a pool pro....I think it would work well.
For maximum effect and truly the best way to use it is empty out the pool first. No water no cloud no waste its only logical.....
Yeah, but then the cost of 15,000 gallon + chemicals
Your job I think you need to drain the pool to much aggravation
Dude you are dangerous 😂😂😂😂 im paying the pros
Lol. Honestly, if you need more than a small patch or two, I’d go another route. I’ve actually drained my pool and am doing the rest in open air now. MUCH easier.
@@amphoravideo Did you try this product. I have an area about the same size in the video, I'm going to drain our pool to that area in low end. Want to be sure this product works.
I can't help but laugh at this. This just creates a bigger problem, it's a bandaid.....a very temporary bandaid. That pool needs resurfacing
yes. It's an inexpensive bandaid to buy time. Sometimes, one has to make choices. I can resurface the pool...or I can provide for my children. I'd rather focus on my kids for now. Resurfacing can wait.
I think you should drain the pool with a sump pump. You might be losing more water to cracks than it would cost you to drain and fill it, then it would be easier to repair. That surface is in bad shape. I'd be testing every inch with dye to be sure of no leaks.