Cars running 👍👍👍👍 Great!! Cleaned map sensor and cleaned hose going to Map sensor. Car is running and driving great and shifts perfect. I never realized how the map sensor can control the shifting of the transmission to. Thank you
Great explanatory video ,i have an acura tsx 2008 and i just ordered the map sensor on ebay for 13 dollars. I also was thinking to use a dremel for the screw to make the line.
Thanks mate. As long as you have steady hands and you're experienced with dremels, you shouldn't have a problem. Personally, I prefer a saw for control.
@@Ghost_Os my car cold not have normal idle sometimes it goes off, also when you are accelerate it won't pick up even black smoke and fuel consumption was high
Nice tutorial Sir, thank you............I shall do this soon on my isuzu diesel 4x4..............I wasn't sure whether you could clean the inside of the sensor............thumbs up and subscribed !
Thank another question for you please? I sprayed electronic cleaner inside the rubber hose that goes in the map sensor on a 2000 Toyota Camry 2.2l. Tie wraps are holding the Map sensor together. Cleaned it and going to put electrical tape and tie wraps again and see if the check engine light goes off. I did not disconnect the battery prior. Afterwards I did, hope I didn't harm anything. I like your videos!!! Great job 👍👍
You would have a vacuum leak from the non-perfect seal since you use tie wraps. You will need to scan the car to identify why the check engine is on. The electronic cleaner as long as it is written safe on plastic/rubber will not cause any issue. Thanks for the compliment!
The "MAP" spray cleaner you mention above on Amazon is listed as a MAF sensor cleaner is it OK to use on a MAP sensor without damaging the sensor. I have a Jeep with a MAP and temperature air sensor combo, would that MAF sensor cleaner also be OK for that sensor??
There's no dedicated MAP sensor cleaner. MAF sensor cleaner is as mild and effective as it gets, and can be safely used on the MAP and other sensitive electronics. Yes, you can use it for the indications you referenced.
I tried using a screw extractor, but sadly that didn’t work. Hopefully I have enough of the head left to use the hacksaw blade to make the line. Thanks for the tip!
that was a nice little trick..I'll have to try that one. If the screw is really fucked, you can also use Epoxy Glue..just put enough on to cover the top of the screw, let it dry really good, then take the hacksaw to it and make your line.
Use the correct screw driver for the JIS type screw that fasten the MAP sensor. JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an “X”. ( Note: JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage ).
Thank you! I don't have MAF cleaning spray or contact cleaning spray on hand --- could I use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) in a spritzer bottle and then let the MAP sensor dry out before reinstalling it? Please advise... Much appreciated...
@@DIYAutoworksNG I just ordered one online yesterday, is supposed to be delivered on Tuesday. And to answer your original question I've never changed it. My Mazda had 100,000 miles when I bought it and I've put another 100,000 miles on it. So hopefully switching that out solves it. Might also replace the MAP sensor, incase the oil getting in there damaged it. Appreciate the reply man thanks. I just noticed I wasn't subbed to this channel, am now. 😁👍
Subaru wanted $465 for the MAP sensor, $550 for the throttle body, and $500 for the labour. I followed the video and cleaned the MAP sensor, used another video to clean the MAF sensor, and cleaned the throttle body with an old toothbrush and alcohol. The vehicle runs like new. Never trust the dealership.
O2 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 3. But the 2012 City only has 2 sensors. What scanner are you using? Please try a different one. If possible a well-known one. I saw one reference for camshaft timing, but try another scanner first. Good scanners usually display a description for codes.
Read the fine print, if it says it doesn't leave a residue or affect plastic, it should be okay. If it's silent on these, I suggest you go with either rubbing alcohol or MAF sensor cleaner. I have 2 electric contact cleaners from different brands: one clearly states it leaves a protective film, the other just cleans and leaves no residue. I use the either the latter or MAF sensor cleaner. Conincidentally, I met someone who cleaned his MAF sensor with carb cleaner 😳😠😡
Certainly not brake cleaner since they contain acetone which will damage most plastic and sensitive electronics over time. Electronic contact cleaner is fine as long as it states that it doesn't leave a residue and is safe on rubber/plastic.
A few questions... Are you having black smoke from the tailpipe? Did you change brakes or tires recently? Did driving style change? If you do not have a CEL, fuel trims STFT and LTFT will tell a lot. There are a lot of things that can cause poor mileage without a CEL. They include: dirty injectors, dirty air cleaner element, dirt MAP or MAF, low tire pressures, dragging brakes, stuck open thermostat, sluggish O2 sensors, leaky injectors, worn spark plugs, faulty fuel pressure regulator etc. You will need to troubleshoot to narrow down to the cause. Would definitely recommend doing tune ups that are due. Any new info?
@@DIYAutoworksNG Hello, I have an Accord 2006. An engine imported from Japan was installed, but after installing the engine, I had some problems when going uphill. The car is muffled. It does not run well when walking on flat ground. It walks perfectly. Maintenance, from changing the ignition and cleaning all the MAF sensors, is it related to the problem of ascent?
hi sir! my car is honda civic 1.4 is d14a4 motor my map sensor reads 0.80 to 0.90 at idle i replaced it checked wires by hand i coultn't find solution. rough idling and operating rich always what causes the problem?
Is wd40 spray possibly a reason to effect this sensor?because i sprayed and since then my engine is vibrating and there is alot smoke and very accelrator
WD-40 is not a cleaner and should not be used to clean sensors. I advise you clean it with MAF sensor cleaner or methylated spirit if you have nothing else.
Thanks a lot for this question! In fact, I went ahead to update the video description to address this. I used an electric contact cleaner spray. The most important thing in choosing a cleaner for the MAP sensor is that, it should be safe on plastic/rubber and leave no residue. MAF sensor cleaners are ideal for this. As far as I know, there is no one that manufactures a dedicated MAP sensor cleaner fluid.
Yes. But I'd say you double check that it doesn't leave any residue. I used to use one brand of contact cleaner until one day I read the instructions on the can and saw that it clearly stated that it left a residue. That was the last day I used that particular product for MAF cleaning... 🤣
My screw is siezed, so waiting / hoping Tri-Flow will free it. In my case, it's a little hard starting when the engine is cold, and the idle will typically bottom out and stall almost immediately if I don't apply and maintain light pressure to the gas pedal for a minute or two. Longer in cold weather. Once the engine has warmed up and driven a few miles, idles normally, no issues with stalling. Will start and idle fine as long as it hasn't sat and cooled down for more than an hour or two. Despite there being an associated low idle issue, the only engine code which is ever thrown is a "system idle higher than expected". The MAP is probably the original, and most likely never cleaned, so once I get the screw out, I figure it won't hurt to clean it anyway. Hoping it fixes it.
Hoping the screw gets unstuck! With the code you spoke about, I would lean more towards the a dirty IACV(if equipped)/throttle body. Has it ever been cleaned?
@@DIYAutoworksNG I replaced the IAC valve, which fixed a no start / extremely hard start. It would stall at stop signs unless given heavy pedal pressure, and would stall when the wheel was turned as far as it could be. The new IAC valve was like night and day. But it only lasted 6 months like that before the issues I described cropped up. I've cleaned the throttle plates and the opening around them, but I'm leary about taking the whole throttle body apart to clean it. I can do some things, but I'm definitely not an auto mechanic. I'll clean the MAP and see what happens, and then clean the IAC. Thank you for your thoughts 😊
@Jay Yoyo Cleaning the MAP made no difference, having a little trouble finding another one, so I can't comment further on that yet. Your problem definitely sounds exactly like mine, whatever it is. If I figure mine out, I'll definitely update. Hopefully you will too 👍😊
@Jay Yoyo Check engine light is on. I do have a scanner, and that one looks familiar, but I can't say for sure. I'll check it tomorrow. The last one I knew, which was the only one showing at the time (a few months ago) was a "system idle higher than expected" - I don't recall the code number though. I'll check it. Is that the one yours is showing?
@@DIYAutoworksNG not the Phillips where the MAF, the funny looking short 10mm bolt. I broke the plastic piece where the 10mm bolt go thru at. So it’s dangling a little instead of bolted
Can this map sensor fault start as being intermittent. My car starts OK from cold..when I get to around 40mph driving..electric fault light comes on..acceleration is slow/normal/slow/normal etc...switch engine off then restart clears fault then all OK until starting from cold again.
@@DIYAutoworksNG the electric fault light also in my handbook is called electronic fault light. Its the same symbol that's used on diesel cars for the glow plug warning light...my models petrol version.
@@DIYAutoworksNG went this morning..none of the codes given on diagnostic report seem to match anything on the internet for my car and there are faults in memory that have never happened. Seemed like it was a waste of money.. garage guy ended up saying perhaps its just moisture that eventually dries by the time cars re started and then fault clears itself. But apparently nothing on diagnostic matches to electronic fault light.
Bro it looks like you're in Nigeria, please can you help with the name of contact cleaner you used, I've checked several auto parts markets in Lagos for maf cleaner and couldn't find a thing
Affirmative on Nigeria! Found CRC MAF sensor cleaner on Konga. www.konga.com/product/crc-mass-air-flow-sensor-cleaner-11-wt-oz-3800952 I've also used this cheaper but effective ABRO product in the past. Still do. jiji.ng/lagos-island-west/building-materials/abro-electronic-copy-contact-cleaner-pCwnPFJ6oGdjKIgFjtcJ3pbp.html?lid=p1PSDr7wBWMTYrgD&cur_pos=3&pos=3&ads_count=3&ads_per_page=3&page=1
@@DIYAutoworksNG ohhhh, why didn't i check online🤦♂️! I scoured through the entire akilo and agidingbi auto parts markets in lagos, no one knew what maf cleaner was, they were just giving me carb cleaner, i was already considering going to olowu and ladipo markets, I'm glad i came across this channel, thanks a lot man.
Good day sir please I have not carried out this procedure yet but I want to explain my situation. Sometimes When I put my car in reverse, it engages immediately but when I put it to drive it doesn't engage for some seconds or even minutes, then when it engages, it jerks violently to the gear. Even when driving on the road, sometimes it will not engage and then it engages as if it is not breathing properly. Also theres poor Gas mileage, difficulty climbing uphill or overtaking. Please I will appreciate your response. Thanks.
With what you've described, it sounds like you have a transmission issue. Lack of power on an incline seems like something else. I advise you scan the car first and share codes.
I can't get the screws off the MAP sensor, those stupid phillips screws are on TIGHT. I got one off and put some anti seize on it so its snug, but I can't get the other one off. I try some loosey liquid wrench stuff, i might have to cut a line into it with a dremel so I can use a flat head into it. If I can get them off i'm going to replace it with some bolt instead of sticking those stupid screws in.
Agreed, but I still think it's not the best design. I think Honda must have realised this and has since moved away from using screws on MAP sensors. My 2017 Accord has a bolt on it.
If its the one I think it is (black and silver can with yellow spray top), you're good to go. I was just laying out the specific requirements because I've seen some electric contact cleaners that leave a protective coating (I guess to limit flux formation) e.g. The one from Liqui Moly. You certainly don't want that on a MAP/MAF sensor.
I wish somebody could help me with a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe to let me know where the map sensor is located. I like to replace it having trouble with my SUV.
I have no history Santa Fe, however, MAP sensors are almost always just after the throttle body on the intake manifold. Also note that not all cars have a MAP sensor. Do you have a MAP sensor code?
On 2017 Honda CRV with 1.5 turbo changed MAP/ MAF sensors problem still exists. Starts fine , idles fine but once you drive it it seems to be holding back and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like bogging down with no real power. Anyone have same problem?
@DIYAutoworksNG mine is P0172. I've cleaned the intake, cleaned the MAF sensor, but still same symptoms. Runs fine but starts to studder, bad smell and lack of acceleration
No need to replace the connector. Is it loose? There's a zip tie hack. Google "using a zip tie on a broken electric connector" Do let me know if it works for you!
Yes. It should go away after completing a number of drive cycles. However, people often go the other way round by clearing the CEL first and waiting to have the ECU confirm the fix by not turning on the CEL.
Haven't worked on this car before, but principles are the same. I think you just have to Google the location. Not all cars have a MAP sensor. So don't be alarmed if you don't find one.
You can use any quick drying solvent that doesn't degrade plastic/rubber and leaves no residue. Examples are MAF sensor cleaner, electric contact cleaner (be sure that the the criteria stated above are written on the body of the can). If you have none of those, you can use rubbing alcohol or methylated spirit as a last resort.
Nope. Carb cleaner will degrade plastic/rubber and also affects sensitive electronics... If you don't have MAF sensor cleaner or electric contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, use rubbing alcohol.
Hello So many things can cause hesitation apart from the MAF sensor. Have you checked for vacuum leaks on bank 2? Fuel supply issues too are potential culprits. What car?
The screw not actually rusty but it is a JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an “X”. ( Note: JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage ).
I wouldn't use that personally, I would say MAF cleaner or an electric parts cleaner that states that it doesn't leave a residue. If you have none of these, my next pick would be rubbing alcohol.
This remains one of those not so common tune up items. Good to have this done to keep your ride in top shape.
Cars running 👍👍👍👍 Great!! Cleaned map sensor and cleaned hose going to Map sensor. Car is running and driving great and shifts perfect. I never realized how the map sensor can control the shifting of the transmission to. Thank you
What is your car, brother?
@@jaccolenoco6548 454 chevy
Great explanatory video ,i have an acura tsx 2008 and i just ordered the map sensor on ebay for 13 dollars. I also was thinking to use a dremel for the screw to make the line.
Thanks mate. As long as you have steady hands and you're experienced with dremels, you shouldn't have a problem. Personally, I prefer a saw for control.
you saved me troubles, just did that that to my car this afternoon, boom back to normal.
Wow. Glad to hear this. All the best!!!!
Hi Raimund, may I ask what symptoms your car had prior to cleaning the MAP sensor?
@@Ghost_Os my car cold not have normal idle sometimes it goes off, also when you are accelerate it won't pick up even black smoke and fuel consumption was high
@@businessartsolution5351 Many thanks for the reply 😊🤙🏻
@@businessartsolution5351 my accord with this now .. sometime good sometime bad ..
Nice tutorial Sir, thank you............I shall do this soon on my isuzu diesel 4x4..............I wasn't sure whether you could clean the inside of the sensor............thumbs up and subscribed !
Many thanks!!!
Great! I have electronic contact cleaner spray. i guess MAF sensor cleaner will do for MAP sensor as well?
Yep!
Thank another question for you please? I sprayed electronic cleaner inside the rubber hose that goes in the map sensor on a 2000 Toyota Camry 2.2l. Tie wraps are holding the Map sensor together. Cleaned it and going to put electrical tape and tie wraps again and see if the check engine light goes off. I did not disconnect the battery prior. Afterwards I did, hope I didn't harm anything. I like your videos!!! Great job 👍👍
You would have a vacuum leak from the non-perfect seal since you use tie wraps. You will need to scan the car to identify why the check engine is on. The electronic cleaner as long as it is written safe on plastic/rubber will not cause any issue.
Thanks for the compliment!
The "MAP" spray cleaner you mention above on Amazon is listed as a MAF sensor cleaner is it OK to use on a MAP sensor without damaging the sensor. I have a Jeep with a MAP and temperature air sensor combo, would that MAF sensor cleaner also be OK for that sensor??
There's no dedicated MAP sensor cleaner. MAF sensor cleaner is as mild and effective as it gets, and can be safely used on the MAP and other sensitive electronics. Yes, you can use it for the indications you referenced.
Hello,
Please tell me before clean Manifold sensor I need to disconnect battery or not.
Thank you
No need except your service manual says so.
@@DIYAutoworksNG
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing a video on how to clean the manifold absolute pressure sensor 🙌
You're welcome.
I tried using a screw extractor, but sadly that didn’t work. Hopefully I have enough of the head left to use the hacksaw blade to make the line. Thanks for the tip!
Fingers crossed for you. Let me know how it goes.
that was a nice little trick..I'll have to try that one. If the screw is really fucked, you can also use Epoxy Glue..just put enough on to cover the top of the screw, let it dry really good, then take the hacksaw to it and make your line.
Thanks! Never thought of epoxy!
Good info. Maybe replace that old screw with a new stainless steel screw?
Thanks. Good idea!
Use the correct screw driver for the JIS type screw that fasten the MAP sensor. JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an “X”.
( Note:
JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage ).
If there good, just give them a good clean and apply copper grease to the ard and cover screw head with grease when finished. 🇬🇧
Love the accent also!! Are you from the islands?
Lol. Not from the Islands.
Thank you! I don't have MAF cleaning spray or contact cleaning spray on hand --- could I use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) in a spritzer bottle and then let the MAP sensor dry out before reinstalling it? Please advise... Much appreciated...
Sure. You can use rubbing alcohol. Some would even put it in a can with rubbing alcohol and shake to better displace the the dirt.
I have a MAF sensor and a MAP sensor.
I just cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, the idle is rough still, can I use MAF cleaner for the MAP?
Yes, it's the right fluid for it.
No DTC's?
@@DIYAutoworksNG When I pulled my MAP sensor it was covered in motor oil 😬
Any idea of what gasket/seals might need replaced?
When last did you clean or replace your PCV valve? It may be clogged open. It returns oil vapour into the intake system.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I just ordered one online yesterday, is supposed to be delivered on Tuesday.
And to answer your original question I've never changed it.
My Mazda had 100,000 miles when I bought it and I've put another 100,000 miles on it. So hopefully switching that out solves it.
Might also replace the MAP sensor, incase the oil getting in there damaged it.
Appreciate the reply man thanks.
I just noticed I wasn't subbed to this channel, am now. 😁👍
Can you clean the pins with electrical cleaner as well? Thank you David
Yep. It's advised.
Subaru wanted $465 for the MAP sensor, $550 for the throttle body, and $500 for the labour. I followed the video and cleaned the MAP sensor, used another video to clean the MAF sensor, and cleaned the throttle body with an old toothbrush and alcohol. The vehicle runs like new. Never trust the dealership.
Amazing! Frankly fraudulent. Dealerships thrive on replacing parts. I'm so glad you took the tune up route!
Thank you for the tip DIY.. can I asked about Honda fault P0005 witch part should I check.. thank you
Sorry lack of information, my car is Honda City 2012 GM2
See this link. It's to do with the fuel shut off valve. www.autocodes.com/p0005.html
@@DIYAutoworksNG sorry bro.. how about P0055 on honda
O2 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 3. But the 2012 City only has 2 sensors. What scanner are you using? Please try a different one. If possible a well-known one.
I saw one reference for camshaft timing, but try another scanner first. Good scanners usually display a description for codes.
Can you use electronic connector to clean MAP sensor ? or MAF cleaner better ?
Read the fine print, if it says it doesn't leave a residue or affect plastic, it should be okay. If it's silent on these, I suggest you go with either rubbing alcohol or MAF sensor cleaner. I have 2 electric contact cleaners from different brands: one clearly states it leaves a protective film, the other just cleans and leaves no residue. I use the either the latter or MAF sensor cleaner.
Conincidentally, I met someone who cleaned his MAF sensor with carb cleaner 😳😠😡
Electronic contact cleaning spray is okay for cleaning the inside? Or maybe brake cleaner spray?
Certainly not brake cleaner since they contain acetone which will damage most plastic and sensitive electronics over time. Electronic contact cleaner is fine as long as it states that it doesn't leave a residue and is safe on rubber/plastic.
I am facing 3 kilometer per liter less average and little bit poor pickup at initial......will MAP sensor cleaning work ?
I am not getting any fault Codes in hyundai i20
A few questions... Are you having black smoke from the tailpipe? Did you change brakes or tires recently? Did driving style change?
If you do not have a CEL, fuel trims STFT and LTFT will tell a lot. There are a lot of things that can cause poor mileage without a CEL. They include: dirty injectors, dirty air cleaner element, dirt MAP or MAF, low tire pressures, dragging brakes, stuck open thermostat, sluggish O2 sensors, leaky injectors, worn spark plugs, faulty fuel pressure regulator etc.
You will need to troubleshoot to narrow down to the cause. Would definitely recommend doing tune ups that are due.
Any new info?
@@DIYAutoworksNG everything is good and in my particulat model i am getting only LTFT1 value is 2.3 % and F/T 1x1 value is 0.8% whats that mean ?
These values are normal. Try reading the trims with RPM at 1500. You may also consider addressing some of the points I raised in the prior comment.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Hello, I have an Accord 2006. An engine imported from Japan was installed, but after installing the engine, I had some problems when going uphill. The car is muffled. It does not run well when walking on flat ground. It walks perfectly. Maintenance, from changing the ignition and cleaning all the MAF sensors, is it related to the problem of ascent?
hi sir! my car is honda civic 1.4 is d14a4 motor
my map sensor reads 0.80 to 0.90 at idle i replaced it checked wires by hand i coultn't find solution. rough idling and operating rich always what causes the problem?
Have you scanned the car?
@@DIYAutoworksNG yes no codes
Does the 2006 Honda Pilot have a MAF sensor? I haven't been able to find one, but I did see the MAP sensor.
It doesn't. Usually MAF's are placed after the air filter but before the throttle body.
So why didn't you replace the stripped headed bolt out with a hex head bolt?
That would have been the smart thing to do. I just couldn't find the right size.
I used carb spray for cleaning the sensor will it damage me sensors
It will damage it if you continue to do so, not sure about 1 use. If no codes, you should be good.
Is wd40 spray possibly a reason to effect this sensor?because i sprayed and since then my engine is vibrating and there is alot smoke and very accelrator
WD-40 is not a cleaner and should not be used to clean sensors. I advise you clean it with MAF sensor cleaner or methylated spirit if you have nothing else.
what spray did you use to clean it
Thanks a lot for this question!
In fact, I went ahead to update the video description to address this.
I used an electric contact cleaner spray. The most important thing in choosing a cleaner for the MAP sensor is that, it should be safe on plastic/rubber and leave no residue. MAF sensor cleaners are ideal for this. As far as I know, there is no one that manufactures a dedicated MAP sensor cleaner fluid.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks alot i will just use a MAF cleaner to clean the MAP sensor
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
You can use a generic contact cleaner it's ideal for the job, make sure it dries fully before reinstalling and starting the car
Yes. But I'd say you double check that it doesn't leave any residue. I used to use one brand of contact cleaner until one day I read the instructions on the can and saw that it clearly stated that it left a residue. That was the last day I used that particular product for MAF cleaning... 🤣
My screw is siezed, so waiting / hoping Tri-Flow will free it. In my case, it's a little hard starting when the engine is cold, and the idle will typically bottom out and stall almost immediately if I don't apply and maintain light pressure to the gas pedal for a minute or two. Longer in cold weather. Once the engine has warmed up and driven a few miles, idles normally, no issues with stalling. Will start and idle fine as long as it hasn't sat and cooled down for more than an hour or two. Despite there being an associated low idle issue, the only engine code which is ever thrown is a "system idle higher than expected". The MAP is probably the original, and most likely never cleaned, so once I get the screw out, I figure it won't hurt to clean it anyway. Hoping it fixes it.
Hoping the screw gets unstuck! With the code you spoke about, I would lean more towards the a dirty IACV(if equipped)/throttle body. Has it ever been cleaned?
@@DIYAutoworksNG I replaced the IAC valve, which fixed a no start / extremely hard start. It would stall at stop signs unless given heavy pedal pressure, and would stall when the wheel was turned as far as it could be. The new IAC valve was like night and day. But it only lasted 6 months like that before the issues I described cropped up. I've cleaned the throttle plates and the opening around them, but I'm leary about taking the whole throttle body apart to clean it. I can do some things, but I'm definitely not an auto mechanic. I'll clean the MAP and see what happens, and then clean the IAC. Thank you for your thoughts 😊
I see! Let us know how it goes!
@Jay Yoyo Cleaning the MAP made no difference, having a little trouble finding another one, so I can't comment further on that yet. Your problem definitely sounds exactly like mine, whatever it is. If I figure mine out, I'll definitely update. Hopefully you will too 👍😊
@Jay Yoyo Check engine light is on. I do have a scanner, and that one looks familiar, but I can't say for sure. I'll check it tomorrow. The last one I knew, which was the only one showing at the time (a few months ago) was a "system idle higher than expected" - I don't recall the code number though. I'll check it. Is that the one yours is showing?
I broke the piece where the 10mm bolt go with the harness. What can I do??
You mean you broke that part on the sensor?
@@DIYAutoworksNG not the Phillips where the MAF, the funny looking short 10mm bolt. I broke the plastic piece where the 10mm bolt go thru at. So it’s dangling a little instead of bolted
I see. I'd replace the sensor then. Just to make sure you don't get a vacuum leak from there.
Hello sir what do you use in cleaning the map sensor?
MAF sensor cleaner or electric contact cleaner which doesn't leave a residue.
Can this map sensor fault start as being intermittent. My car starts OK from cold..when I get to around 40mph driving..electric fault light comes on..acceleration is slow/normal/slow/normal etc...switch engine off then restart clears fault then all OK until starting from cold again.
It'd be better to scan the car since a warning light comes up. Did you mean the check engine light?
@@DIYAutoworksNG the electric fault light also in my handbook is called electronic fault light. Its the same symbol that's used on diesel cars for the glow plug warning light...my models petrol version.
I see. I recommend scanning the car
@@DIYAutoworksNG went this morning..none of the codes given on diagnostic report seem to match anything on the internet for my car and there are faults in memory that have never happened. Seemed like it was a waste of money.. garage guy ended up saying perhaps its just moisture that eventually dries by the time cars re started and then fault clears itself. But apparently nothing on diagnostic matches to electronic fault light.
Did you get a report of the scan and the codes? What were the codes marked as current? What car is this?
Bro it looks like you're in Nigeria, please can you help with the name of contact cleaner you used, I've checked several auto parts markets in Lagos for maf cleaner and couldn't find a thing
Affirmative on Nigeria!
Found CRC MAF sensor cleaner on Konga. www.konga.com/product/crc-mass-air-flow-sensor-cleaner-11-wt-oz-3800952
I've also used this cheaper but effective ABRO product in the past. Still do. jiji.ng/lagos-island-west/building-materials/abro-electronic-copy-contact-cleaner-pCwnPFJ6oGdjKIgFjtcJ3pbp.html?lid=p1PSDr7wBWMTYrgD&cur_pos=3&pos=3&ads_count=3&ads_per_page=3&page=1
@@DIYAutoworksNG ohhhh, why didn't i check online🤦♂️!
I scoured through the entire akilo and agidingbi auto parts markets in lagos, no one knew what maf cleaner was, they were just giving me carb cleaner, i was already considering going to olowu and ladipo markets, I'm glad i came across this channel, thanks a lot man.
You're welcome!
One question sir. After cleaning the sensor, do you have to relearn the throttle?
Nope.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks sir!😀
You're welcome sir😁
Good day sir please I have not carried out this procedure yet but I want to explain my situation. Sometimes When I put my car in reverse, it engages immediately but when I put it to drive it doesn't engage for some seconds or even minutes, then when it engages, it jerks violently to the gear. Even when driving on the road, sometimes it will not engage and then it engages as if it is not breathing properly. Also theres poor Gas mileage, difficulty climbing uphill or overtaking. Please I will appreciate your response. Thanks.
With what you've described, it sounds like you have a transmission issue. Lack of power on an incline seems like something else. I advise you scan the car first and share codes.
@@DIYAutoworksNG okay sir. I will scan and share to you. Although I have scanned several times and they said 3 and 4th cylinder has issues. Also
Okay. The actual codes will be helpful. If possible, use a scanner that has access to the transmission.
Can u use mass air flow cleaner ?
💯
@@DIYAutoworksNG appreciated it my man how long u waitied until u putted it back on
@@DIYAutoworksNG I have a 04 Honda accord ex 2.4 and sometimes in the morning it takes a while to start but during the day it starts up fine
This car have both sensor MAP & MAF?
This 2003 Accord has just a MAP sensor.
I can't get the screws off the MAP sensor, those stupid phillips screws are on TIGHT. I got one off and put some anti seize on it so its snug, but I can't get the other one off. I try some loosey liquid wrench stuff, i might have to cut a line into it with a dremel so I can use a flat head into it.
If I can get them off i'm going to replace it with some bolt instead of sticking those stupid screws in.
Cutting a slot for a flat-head is your best bet for getting it out. If you get a fitting bolt afterwards, that would be great. Bad design by Honda.
Its a JIS-cross head screw, not the normal philip cross screw use the right type cross screw driver for it.
Agreed, but I still think it's not the best design. I think Honda must have realised this and has since moved away from using screws on MAP sensors. My 2017 Accord has a bolt on it.
Sir what does PS means on Map sensor... like 33 PS, 30 PS?😊
I honestly don't know. Lol. Looks like part of a code to me.
Can I use wd 40 electric cleaner ? For the sensors
No. Only MAF sensor cleaner, rubbing alcohol or electric contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue.
@@DIYAutoworksNG wd 40 contact cleaner?
Got you! Thought you meant the penetrating oil 😂. Yes you can, as long it says it doesn't leave a residue or degrade plastic.
@@DIYAutoworksNG it’s ment for cleanening electric parts and is fast drying..
If its the one I think it is (black and silver can with yellow spray top), you're good to go. I was just laying out the specific requirements because I've seen some electric contact cleaners that leave a protective coating (I guess to limit flux formation) e.g. The one from Liqui Moly. You certainly don't want that on a MAP/MAF sensor.
I wish somebody could help me with a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe to let me know where the map sensor is located. I like to replace it having trouble with my SUV.
I have no history Santa Fe, however, MAP sensors are almost always just after the throttle body on the intake manifold. Also note that not all cars have a MAP sensor. Do you have a MAP sensor code?
On 2017 Honda CRV with 1.5 turbo changed MAP/ MAF sensors problem still exists. Starts fine , idles fine but once you drive it it seems to be holding back and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like bogging down with no real power. Anyone have same problem?
Any codes?
@DIYAutoworksNG mine is P0172. I've cleaned the intake, cleaned the MAF sensor, but still same symptoms. Runs fine but starts to studder, bad smell and lack of acceleration
@@richlive11could be 02 sensor
Anyone know or have a video to replace the map sensor connector? My clip on it broke. Any suggestions or ideas?
No need to replace the connector. Is it loose? There's a zip tie hack. Google "using a zip tie on a broken electric connector" Do let me know if it works for you!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I see. How would I remove it when I need to remove/unplugged the sensor?
Depress that tab that enables you loosen a zip tie
@@DIYAutoworksNG can you send me a video of how to?
Just search "using a zip tie on a broken electric connector". There loads on UA-cam
I got 2 codes for my car and it’s hard going up hills and my car will drive ok then rough then ok then rough
Have the car scanned, a number of things can cause this.
Thank you sir!
You're welcome!
Nobody shows how to clear Check Engine light or will it go away by itself after MAP clean or replace?
Yes. It should go away after completing a number of drive cycles. However, people often go the other way round by clearing the CEL first and waiting to have the ECU confirm the fix by not turning on the CEL.
*These OEM sensors go for about 140, I got Mines for $100 at honda not everyone will get that deal*
It's cheaper online. See www.hondapartscheap.com/oem-parts/honda-sensor-assembly-map-37830pgka01?c=Zz1lbmdpbmUmcz1pbnRha2UtbWFuaWZvbGQtbDQtMDUmbD02Jm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9aG9uZGEmbz1hY2NvcmQmeT0yMDAzJnQ9bHgmZT0yLTRsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D
It's $68
@@DIYAutoworksNG *Theres Also A Similar Cheap Website As Well Here In FL, Its " Honda Parts Florida* "
Thanks!
Mine is $350..
That's a lot!
I need to no how to clean map sensor on 94 Chevy 5.7 liter
Haven't worked on this car before, but principles are the same. I think you just have to Google the location. Not all cars have a MAP sensor. So don't be alarmed if you don't find one.
Please what's the name of the chemical used in cleaning the map sensor
You can use any quick drying solvent that doesn't degrade plastic/rubber and leaves no residue. Examples are MAF sensor cleaner, electric contact cleaner (be sure that the the criteria stated above are written on the body of the can). If you have none of those, you can use rubbing alcohol or methylated spirit as a last resort.
My pump is starting now but it doesn’t get gas and my air mass sensor air intake got burnt
I don't understand.
Sorry man haha
Can I use throttle body cleaner? otherwise I just have some alcohol
Throttle body cleaner contains acetone which damages most plastic & rubber. Will rather use alcohol.
@@DIYAutoworksNG okay I will try with rubber alcohol
👌🏼
Thanks
You're welcome.
Can i use WD40 for cleaning map.sensore
Not at all. Look for MAP sensor cleaner or rubbing alcohol if you are in a bind.
@@DIYAutoworksNG can you use carb cleaner? I already did anyways but i think mine might be bad after i did that lol
Nope. Carb cleaner will degrade plastic/rubber and also affects sensitive electronics... If you don't have MAF sensor cleaner or electric contact cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, use rubbing alcohol.
p0174 my car has no maf sensor???hesattation
Hello
So many things can cause hesitation apart from the MAF sensor. Have you checked for vacuum leaks on bank 2? Fuel supply issues too are potential culprits. What car?
To cheap to put a new bolt on your map sensor?
who cares its one tiny screw
First step should have been to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Oh, you should have changed the screw that was rusty. Lol
The screw not actually rusty but it is a JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an “X”.
( Note:
JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is in the leading angle of the point of the driver. Phillips bits have a larger angle and therefore don't bottom out in the JIS screws, causing slippage ).
Must be change map sensor about 100 000 km 🚘!
Can I use brake parts cleaner
I wouldn't use that personally, I would say MAF cleaner or an electric parts cleaner that states that it doesn't leave a residue. If you have none of these, my next pick would be rubbing alcohol.
Wd 40 electric contact cleaner
That would work
No.problem if I use electronic cleaner
Sounds good as long as it doesn't leave a residue.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks
Por que a mi m lo marca p2227 sensor map
Can be poor contacts, shorted wiring, dirty or bad MAP sensor. Also dirty air filter in some cars. Worst case scenario, a bad ECU.
Carb cleaner won't hurt a thing😂
It'll degrade plastic over time. It won't do it immediately. Can also mess up the sensor readings.
Never buy after market parts. If you car takes Delco buy Delco it will save one tones of headache.
Gospel!
C’mon, man. Change the worn screw with a bolt!!!
Considered it, but didn't have the same size bolt at the time. I've since sold the car though.