Figgy. Love the vids. My 2004 Explorer has vacuum issues but I never thought about replacing the intake gaskets. This morning it had rained and moisture in the air definitely makes starting tough and idling rough. I just need to find my nerve and do it. You inspire me with your knowledge and calm demeanor. I loved it when you said, "I'm not going to let this beat me". That is how I want to be.
Well it is possible the intake gaskets is your problem, but I would check a few things to confirm your suspicion before just swapping out intake gaskets and hoping that is the fix. (intake gaskets themselves are fairly inexpensive but a little time consuming to replace) I would recommend getting a scan tool to look at certain data. (Look at fuel trims, o2 sensor, mass air flow, rpm, IAT, TP and a few other sensor info) Using this data can help you determine if a vacuum leak is what you actually have. Having access to data can help determine the correct direction to go. I own several different scan tools, but anytime I work on fords I really like using a free scan tool software from www.forscan.org The software is free, you just have to have an obd2 cable to communicate between computer and laptop. I bought my cable off Ebay for around $25 I think. I have a video about forscan the link is here ua-cam.com/video/UL4uAdXAXKE/v-deo.html This software I think is top notch for being free. I first learned about it from one of my automotive technology instructors a few years ago and I have used it ever sense. I am not affiliated with forscan in anyway. You can access a lot of information using a scan tool so it is very handy to have. Also here is a great article about vacuum leaks (lots of good info on testing and finding them) www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm You can try starting there for good info. The way I find vacuum leaks (after I observe scan data), is 4 ways, 1. I listen for hissing by ear or using a mechanics stethoscope (also kinda feel around for it). 2. I use propane (bottle with hose attached) to spray around (where the leak is it will suck in the propane and engine will rev) (note this can be dangerous propane is flammable) 3. Use water to pour around. If vacuum is present it should suck the water in you will hear the water being sucked in and it will bog the engine down. (note dont do this on a super hot engine and do a little bit of water at a time) 4. My favorite method by far is to use a smoke machine to find the leaks. I think this is the best way to go and a lot safer. It is done with the engine off (no moving parts, and the engine is not hot). However a smoke machine is super expensive to buy (but there are lots of examples of cheap homemade ones off the internet to get the job done) I dont know how many miles your vehicle has on it or when you did your last tune up, but based on just the year and you telling me about it raining with high moisture and that condition made your vehicle have a hard start and idle rough. Makes me think you may have an ignition issue and may need to change out your spark plugs, spark plug wires, and perhaps the ignition coil. There are numerous ways to test all of these components, but my favorite simple way is to use a water spray bottle, and look for arcing. Here is a link to a video from eric the car guy kinda showing this method off ua-cam.com/video/x-U9WqJfaJs/v-deo.html I do it just like this (better to do this when darker to help see an arcing) If I dont see anything something I like to do is also hook a test light up to ground source and run the test light probe all around to try to get an arc to my probe. If you get an arc or see arcing that means the components are leaking voltage and need replaced. I have a video about replacing the plugs and another video about the ignition coil replacement (these ignition coils are prone to crack, leak, and arc). Well I hope this info helps you out and you are able to figure out your problem. Also I wanted to say thanks for the nice comment you left I appreciate it, and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
Thanks so much for the video, I've always been a backyard mechanic and will tackle anything. I'm used to the old iron from the 60's and 70's when things were so much simpler. These videos help so much in finding all the bolts, plug ins and hoses. You know what to expect and look for when doing the job. I just finished up the intake gaskets on my 99 Explorer and from start to finish was 2 hours 15 minutes. Piece of cake thanks to the help of your video. Much appreciation from a long time Ford fanatic.
Thank you for your video. I would have never attempted a repair like this. Following along with yours, step by step, 100% helpful and educational. Thank you again
Thank you so much! I need to remove the upper intake manifold to swap out the thermostat housing and I was a bit lost, even with the manual. Your tip regarding the computer cable for the back bolts is gold! My 98 XLT thanks you.
Thank you for the video it helped a lot. I was getting a bank 1 bank 2 lean code. I live in Alberta Canada where it gets extremely cold. On start up I had to keep my foot on the gas until it warmed up just to keep the vehicle running. I threw money at some other things but I should have done this first. She doesn't hunt to idle now and runs like a champ. Buy the gaskets take the time to replace them. They are a crucial part of the engine.
AJ, these two videos were outstanding. Pulled my upper and lower, swapped the PCV valve (including the otherwise impossible down tube) while I was in there, replaced the gaskets, and buttoned it all back up, all thanks to you, man. One little suggestion that could pay big dividends: cover the intakes to minimize debris settling into the block, and to prevent a stray bolt from dropping into the head. So you're the MAN. Thanks for saving me a ton of time and research. Well done!
+ABC ABC Hey I am glad my videos helped you out. Also you are right about covering up the holes to prevent any stray objects from falling inside the engine (would really suck to drop a bolt down in there, that could be a really bad day for sure) I cant remember if I showed stuffing rags in and over the holes or if I showed that on a different intake video I did, but yes you are absolutely correct cover that stuff up for sure. Well thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, I appreciate it. Have a good day.
Thanks AJ, I just watched both pt1 & pt2 ,very well done and explained . I have that familiar hiss hiss and poor cold starts ( in colder weather) then once warm it runs fine, this video is exactly what I suspected I would have to do. I also got to see a few possible pitfalls I could have easily run into. Your video will help a great deal. Cheers ! from Victoria BC Canada
Thanks for watching both pt1 & pt2 I appreciate it. I hope my video helps you out. Thanks again for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day, and good luck to you if you do this job.
thanks for the video. I did this a few years back on my 99. Upper was a PITA but lower was easier, as you showed here. The reason I changed them then, was I wasn't certain if the PO had done it based on a TSB, so I did as a precaution. Never had any indication of issues so far.
+Kalspeed Yeah the upper was for sure a PITA. Yeah I do believe there was a few TSBs on this, because the intakes on these are notorious for leaks. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Thanks for the video! I am just about to replace the lower and upper intake gaskets on my 1999. I have a really rough idle when it is cold and I have seen, quite a few times from reading up on it, that this could be the cause of the problem. I look forward to tackling it this weekend, once again really appreciate the video!
+Josh Groover Hey you are welcome, and good luck to you. I hope changing out your gaskets works for you. Let me know how it goes. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
From the future, and hopefully you'll respond but where did you get the replacement gaskets from and did you use loc tite or anything? Torque specs as well
Did you say that you tort the lower intake bolts at 110 foot pounds of torque and the upper intake plenum bolts at 62-in pounds I think is what you said is that the correct because I have that same engine that's a very engine not all of them look like it took me forever to find a new one to replace the one that I had where the timing sets it went bad and messed the engine up so I'm in the process of I've got it out I've got the new engine I'm just reassembling the engine and I'm getting mixed results and information on what those torque specs should be on those bolts
Yeah those vehicles are pretty notorious for lean conditions caused by vacuum leaks. Hey good luck to you on fixing it. I would suggest while you are in there to replace the egr tube seal (it seals the upper intake to the egr and it can leak), and maybe test your fuel injectors (ohm them out 11-18 ohms I think is spec) Maybe also take the injectors out and clean them, and replace the injector o rings (which can also be a vacuum leak). Point is if you are removing the upper and lower intake manifolds, this would be the time to check and clean fuel injectors while you are in there. I say this because a lean condition can be caused by to much air or not enough fuel, and a rich condition can be caused by to much fuel or not enough air. I hope that makes sense. Anyway thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
Yeah I'm mechanically inclined, so I'm going to do all of that, I got access to a second engine recently because the timing chains in these don't last forever, the guides break down. I've already done the thermostat housing, and without pulling the UI, that's a pain, if I was using a brand new housing, and not a donor housing, I'd have done the seals and all at once. I'll be sure to let you know how that goes too
Ok. I have a 97 Ford explorer 4.0 v6. Sohc. Had to replace the three front timing chain guides. Now I'm putting it all back together. Yet it's been down for close to 9month. Due to weather. I'm needing help to locate the hoses from the I take with clips to not knowing where the end of the single part hose goes. Please help. Thanks in advanced
Wow, that was quick! Hey, I just started watching some of your videos on the explorer. Are there any aftermarket parts you would recommend? Other than like a new exhaust system. Mine's got some pretty decent power, but I'm always looking for something more.
Lol. After you said dont torque them 110 foot pounds. After you got done torquing them you said " I just got done torquing them to 110 foot pounds. Very funny but great job.
You need some power tools! Change the PVC, cam plunger and use some paper towels in the intake runners when cleaning. And you need a good mount for your camera, hand held camera is hard to follow. It's a good how to video, I like that you gave the torque specs and made sure your viewers were aware of inch not foot pounds. Keep up the good work!
I got 223000 on mine , haven't had any problems with this yet but I'll probably change them soon anyway, I have had the intake off to replace the thermostat housing a couple of times, I striped the intake bolts, had to make some fatter ones from wood screws, I'll replace upper and lower intake and gaskets soon, took her in yesterday for a smog and passed no problem
Mine is a 99 but I dont drive it to much it has less than a 100000 miles on it. Yeah those plastic intakes in my opinion are pretty much junk, they break way to easy. Did those wood screws seem to hold good? I may have to do that sometime in the future to mine, because it seems every time I have removed the upper intake the screws dont seem to like to go back in the right way. Well thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
4:07 that bottom left hose assembly, what's it called? It's a T hard hose that runs to 2 nipples on the upper intake manifold. Then the bottom runs down but I'm not sure to where.
Well what you described being a t one going to the back side of the motor and the other to the undersides of both intake manifold is a pcv valve I broke that stupid t putting a new one in so got rid of the plastic junk and put brass
How on earth are you gonna be able to remember all of the things you disconnected from the intake cover when you put it back on lol.. Wow amazing..I have a 02 ford explorer with a hole in my upper intake and i have to replace it. This video will help me out a lot thanks..
Well just go slow and take pictures or take a video of how everything goes. Look up the service procedure on how to remove the upper intake. You can get a chilton book or haynes manual, or usually what I do is buy a subscription to www.eautorepair.net which is mitchell (a professional mechanic software) for diy auto repair. I think that is super great info about your specific vehicle you are working on. It cost around 25.00 for a year subscription, but very handy to have. I have a subscription for each of my vehicles I own. If I work on a friends car I tell them to get that so I can look up info if need be. Also most public libraries will usually have some type of automotive software similar to this you can access for free just by going up to the library. You just need to get a library card to access this type of information. Which is super handy. I just like to be able to have that type of info at my fingertips online at home. Well I hope this info helps you out, and good luck to you on replacing your upper intake. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
great video, if you still have a leak try spraying that hose with the clip on it you said was loose with starting fluid, I had a vacuum leak on that ,my engine light would come on because of it, I went to pick and pull, 5$ fixed my problem
Yeah that clip was leaking and I did the same thing you did, I went to pick and pull and got a replacement part and it fixed it. My bank 1 is perfect now, but my bank 2 has a little bit higher fuel positive fuel trims, it is within 10 percent so I am not to worried about, but I am still looking for a slight leak somewhere. Thanks for the comment and the suggestions. Have a good day.
Mr. AJ PIERCE,tanks your explanation. But I have a doubt: in the video, on 16:20 time, you talk about ´torque level´we have to use. And I don´t understand well. Is between 107 and 123 inch/pound? Would you confirm this torque range please? Anyway, tanks a lot.
The upper intake manifold bolts are torqued to 62 inch pounds (which is only about 5 ft pounds), and the lower intake manifold bolts are torqued to 107-123 inch pounds (which is only about 9 ft pounds) 12 inch pounds = 1 ft lb. So basically I was just pointing out the importance of using the correct amount of torque on the bolts. Most torque wrenches are set using ft lbs scale, and if you did not adjust to inch pounds you would most likely snap the bolt. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Where do I get my upper intake manifold gaskets from? Where did you get yours? Also I can't find any place that has the crankcase breather seal either. Any suggestions?
i will have to thank you in advance good sir, as i am preparing myself for this adventure, im going to do this to my 01 sport, and it might not be just the same but its pretty close (gasket wise) according to autozone, but i am also getting lean codes both banks and a very rough idle, i cant stand this shit anymore haha! will let you know if it worked for me !! again thank you!
+Carlitos Ferreiro Well good luck to you, I hope everything works out for you. One thing I might suggest is maybe testing the fuel injectors (use a meter and ohm them out while you are in there), maybe take them out and clean them and check spray pattern,(lots of videos on youtube on how to do this) and maybe replace the injector o ring gaskets while you are down in there,(if you decide to remove them and clean them) (those o rings can be a vacuum leak source. The reason I say this is because lean conditions can be a result of either to much air (vacuum leaks, or unmetered air getting in) or could be not enough fuel (plugged injectors, dirty injectors,), and since you have to take all of that stuff off anyway. Now would be a good time to do it, just easier to access while everything is off. Well anyway as I said good luck to you. Thanks for the comment and let me know how it goes. Have a good day.
This makes it seem like by just removing the upper part I can get the injectors...Does the lower part the one you are taking out in this part have to come out to change injectors? Thanks trying to figure out what gaskets to order before I tear it down.
From what I remember I believe you can get to the fuel injectors by removing just the upper intake. When you order intake gaskets they come with both the upper and lower intake gaskets. (the felpro kit is around $7 on rockauto.com and the same set is about $20 from autozone) Now when pulling the upper intake you may want to replace your egr o-ring tube seal and perhaps the pcv valve in the rear, and if replacing fuel injectors you may want to replace the fuel injector adapter seals that the injectors seal into. I have a few videos related to this, and here are the links. ua-cam.com/video/z6_0f1uqe00/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/LlXtWKLmfd8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/1bBBaxCgsOE/v-deo.html Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
I am thinking of tackling this too someone told me my intake gasket is probably bad be a use it runs midrange on the guage and I cannot keep water in the radiator because it keeps getting pushed out ( I put water in after doing the thermostat housing until I made sure there were not any more leaks ) I have a die in it and that is not getting into the oil so I am glad it is not the head .
Well if you keep losing coolant (or water) I would suggest you might try pressure testing your coolant system with everything shut down and the engine completely cooled down to check for leaks. You can use a radiator pressure tester. Or make a homemade version, but basically you are pressuring the coolant system (usually around 16psi) to see if the system can hold pressure. If it does not hold pressure it is leaking somewhere. Doing this will usually help you pin point any coolant leaks. If you do not see a leak externally, but you see the pressure going down, then suspect internal leak. Another test you can try is to look inside each cylinder with a tiny borescope (you can buy them, but I made my own for a few dollars and it works very well) Anyway you can usually see if a cylinder is leaking coolant (or water) internally because that cylinder will usually be much cleaner looking than the cylinders that are not leaking. Normal ones are usually coated in a little carbon, and the ones that leak are much cleaner. Also another thing that could be happening (I am not sure of your exact cooling system) If you have on the radiator by the rad cap a connection that goes to an overflow tank and that thing is super full, and your rad is not full, you might have a bad radiator cap. Sometimes when pressure builds in the coolant system from getting hotter the rad cap pressure relief opens and coolant goes to the overflow tank, now when the system cools back down this should create a vacuum and the rad cap should open under vacuum and the fluid should go back into the radiator. (I hope that makes sense) Here is a link for more info on how the rad cap functionsasecertificationtraining.com/radiators-in-automotive-engines/ . I hope this info helps you out and gives you some more things to think about. But bottom line if you cant keep coolant in the radiator something is leaking somewhere and this should help you find it. Well good luck you ya and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce I have some leak dye in the system but it is not leaking anywhere , just coming out the neck ,or being pushed out the over flow bottle if the cap is on
If you keep having to replace coolant it is leaking out somewhere. So the first thing I would suggest is a coolant system pressure test, to see if the system holds pressure. If it holds pressure that is good, but if it does not hold pressure figure out where it is leaking. If the pressure holds (test or just replace rad cap, have to have special tester to test rad cap)Also with a pressure gauge on the system you can start the vehicle and watch the pressure gauge if pressure rises rapidly there may be combustion gases getting into your coolant system (bad head gasket) That is one test you can try. Another is to check for combustion gases in the cooling system by using a chemical checker (ex block tester,) you basically put this tool over the radiator and squeeze the bulb if the fluid changes color in the tool you have combustion gases in your coolant. (bad head gasket) Another test to do is a compression test. If you have low compression on one or multiple cylinders that could be a head gasket problem. Also you may try opening your rad cap/or reservoir (only do this test on a completely cooled down engine) then start the car and look for bubbles in the coolant (if a lot of bubbles might be combustion gases in coolant) After verifying system's ability to hold pressure, engine compression, a chemical combustion checker, and rad cap replacement. If all of that test out well, and you are still losing coolant, something must be making the system overheat (which should illuminate engine light, and make dash gauge read hot) and push coolant out the overflow. Perhaps bad water pump, bad thermostat, plugged/dirty radiator, bad radiator fans. Also the engine itself could be running hot, from numerous things.(ex exhaust restrictions ,lean conditions,) Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+Josh Groover No my head gasket was fine, but If you suspect a head gasket problem you can check a few things to confirm. Usually first thing I do is look at the oil dipstick and oil cap (if it looks milky that means coolant is mixing with oil) One step further is to get a sample of oil and you can send it to a lab to have it tested (called an oil analysis kit) this usually cost around 20-30 dollars. (it is amazing all the things an oil sample can tell you about your vehicle) Another test is to pressure test your coolant system using a coolant system pressure tester (if it does not hold pressure you are losing coolant somewhere). Another test is to use a block tester kit (also called combustion leak tester) It is a simple test done over the radiator cap or coolant reservoir it is a cylinder shaped tool that holds fluid, and the fluid tests the vapors inside the cooling system. It changes colors if combustion gasses are in the system. (dont do this test if coolant system is hot or under pressure you could get burned) Another test is to check compression on all the cylinders (usually bad head gaskets show weak cylinder compression, basically if the head gasket is not sealing compression will leak and not build. To do this test you use a compression tester, and to do this test you take out the spark plugs, disable the fuel system, disable the ignition system, screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole, and crank the engine over and see what compression you get in the cylinder. Another test is to look at the tail pipe if you have white smoke coming out of the tail pipe you might have coolant leaking into the combustion chamber, but basically coolant leaks into the cylinder and gets burned up and makes white smoke out the tail pipe (there are videos on youtube showing this) Well here are a few basic tests you can do to test for bad head gaskets. I hope this info helps you out. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
I used felpro ms90890 I believe. This part number has both upper and lower intake gaskets. I bought mine from oreilly auto parts. I think it was less than $20 You can type ms90890 under parts on the autozone.com, oreillyauto.com, or go to rockauto.com and type in that number and felpro and find the part or you can type in your vehicle info and find it that way as well. I would suggest rockauto.com I have been using them a lot because they have really good prices, and a good return policy. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
I really appreciate these videos. I'll be doing this on my 2000 this weekend, assuming I don't have to order the gaskets online. It idles rough in the morning and dies if I don't keep pressure on the gas, at least until it warms a little. Bad milage, too. I've got lean codes on both banks and all cylinders are reporting a misfire, so I hope this does the trick. Did you have to reset the check engine light after this?
+Allen Reed Well good luck to ya on changing out your gaskets this weekend. You may want to try using a smoke machine on your intake to see if you can find a leak before replacing everything. I think the best way to pinpoint a vacuum leak is with a smoke machine. A lean condition can mean to much air throwing the air fuel ratio off or not enough fuel throwing the ratio off. (lean is to much air or not enough fuel, rich is to much fuel or not enough air) I would try to rule a few things out before replacing them (not a big deal though intake gaskets are inexpensive and yours probably do need replaced) If you have a scan tool look at o2 sensors to check function (see if they respond with propane enrichment and vacuum leaks) Look at fuel trims see what they are doing, and what they do when you snap the throttle. Check fuel pressures and fuel volume flow. Also change fuel filter, and clean injectors. If replacing the gaskets, it might be a good time to replace fuel injector o-rings, and pull injectors and clean them and test them (I wish I did that when I had everything off) Well just some things to think about. To me it sounds like you have a problem that is affecting both banks, and not just one bank. So most likely the problem will be something that is common to both banks. (maf sensor, fuel, or vacuum leak ) Well I hope this info is helpful to you. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce Well, I finally got around to doing the intake manifold gaskets. All the advice you gave above is great, but I wasn't able to it as I don't have the means or know-how. I intended to change my fuel injector O-rings, but when I got a look at the fuel rail, I didn't feel confident removing it. I'll have to either learn more or have a pro do it when I can afford to (or maybe one day you'll release a video on it, haha). However, I was able to change the upper and lower manifold gaskets, and I have to say, the Explorer is running MUCH better. No more hard starts or dying while idling anymore. More get up and go, fuel economy, even the brakes seem to work better. The short of it is: I owe you a steak.
+james dean Here is a link to what a head gasket looks like www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289847 just scroll down a little. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Some guys start from the easiest and work toward the more difficult . where I start from the most difficult to remove working my way forward towards the easiest ..and I remove wire harnesses fuel rails anything that might cause interference at all anywhere ..If your ever doing this job in the future you might wanna take some compressed air and blast off the intake valley PRIOR to lifting off the lower plenum so no animal debris like Chipmunk nuts & other stuff does not fall into your motor....But while your intake plenum is off is a great time to take some Simple green or Purple power and clean it really good inside and out both upper & lower you will find that inside the intake they runner's do collect plenty of crap and let's face it clean is always better than dirty ... just blow it off good when done ..
+Jason Gallardo It has been running a lot better at idle, I think replacing the intake gaskets made a big difference, but now I think it has another issue. I believe I have some dirty or clogged fuel injectors or perhaps another fuel delivery issue. I have just been to busy to mess with it. I have been busy dealing with finals for school. I hope to do some more work on it in the near future. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce I hope to tackle this project during Xmas break as my exploder is also idling rough.i only have 215k on mine and was quite surprised you almost hit 400 k wow great milage never seen that in an explorer.cheers!
Use a inch pound torque wrench. They sell inch pound and foot pounds. If you don't have one the big three auto parts stores Advance, Auto Zone and O'Reilly have them in the free loaner tools. Pay a deposit, use it, take it back and get your money back. Harbor Freight has some cheap ones.
I took my time and I think I removed everything and cleaned up and prepped everything in one day (maybe 2 hours). Then the next day I put everything back together. (maybe another 2 hours) But I did everything when it was super hot outside, and I used only hand tools. If I had to do it over again I would use an impact or a drill to remove the long screw bolts holding the intake on, (they are long look kinda like deck screws) and I would remove the pcm connector and cable off the firewall to get clearer access to the back bolts. I think this job could be done in a few hours no problem. What took so long was the cleaning and prep work, and the back bolts (just remove the pcm connector and cables much easier to do) Also if you do this job, it is probably a good idea to test and clean your fuel injectors (maybe even replace the fuel injector o ring gaskets, could be source of leak) Also replace the egr ring gasket as well (it seals the intake from the egr tube and they leak) Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Has anyone done this on a 2001 Ford Explorer? The Haynes Manual indicates that the 2001 model is "one piece" although the set-up looks the same as it does in this video.
Yes I've run into the putting a new engine into my Ford explorer 2001 sport 4x4 there are many different types of intake assemblies that go on the tops of this 4.6 l engine and that's where a lot of people have problems trying to find the right gaskets and stuff like that and the place I even got the engine from they didn't even know that there were different since the engines like the ones manufactured before 03 of $2,000 I think is once one type of intake and then the ones after that that's a totally different type of intake and I argued with the them people at powertrain sport motors and they never would do anything to fix it or rectify it to fix the gasket problem cuz it was supposed to come with gaskets and it was the wrong gaskets
Dam Ford for building such a bs abomination!!! They could have had a single pipe intake on top as a single piece and then all you would need to do is pull the 12 bolts and swap the gaskets...
I replaced the fuel injector o-rings under the fuel rail, and my fuel injector adapter seals. Not sure what gasket under the fuel rail you are talking about, as far as I know the fuel rail only has o rings. I replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets if you are talking about the lower intake gasket. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Figgy. Love the vids. My 2004 Explorer has vacuum issues but I never thought about replacing the intake gaskets. This morning it had rained and moisture in the air definitely makes starting tough and idling rough. I just need to find my nerve and do it. You inspire me with your knowledge and calm demeanor. I loved it when you said, "I'm not going to let this beat me". That is how I want to be.
Well it is possible the intake gaskets is your problem, but I would check a few things to confirm your suspicion before just swapping out intake gaskets and hoping that is the fix. (intake gaskets themselves are fairly inexpensive but a little time consuming to replace) I would recommend getting a scan tool to look at certain data. (Look at fuel trims, o2 sensor, mass air flow, rpm, IAT, TP and a few other sensor info) Using this data can help you determine if a vacuum leak is what you actually have. Having access to data can help determine the correct direction to go. I own several different scan tools, but anytime I work on fords I really like using a free scan tool software from www.forscan.org The software is free, you just have to have an obd2 cable to communicate between computer and laptop. I bought my cable off Ebay for around $25 I think. I have a video about forscan the link is here ua-cam.com/video/UL4uAdXAXKE/v-deo.html This software I think is top notch for being free. I first learned about it from one of my automotive technology instructors a few years ago and I have used it ever sense. I am not affiliated with forscan in anyway. You can access a lot of information using a scan tool so it is very handy to have.
Also here is a great article about vacuum leaks (lots of good info on testing and finding them) www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm You can try starting there for good info. The way I find vacuum leaks (after I observe scan data), is 4 ways, 1. I listen for hissing by ear or using a mechanics stethoscope (also kinda feel around for it). 2. I use propane (bottle with hose attached) to spray around (where the leak is it will suck in the propane and engine will rev) (note this can be dangerous propane is flammable) 3. Use water to pour around. If vacuum is present it should suck the water in you will hear the water being sucked in and it will bog the engine down. (note dont do this on a super hot engine and do a little bit of water at a time) 4. My favorite method by far is to use a smoke machine to find the leaks. I think this is the best way to go and a lot safer. It is done with the engine off (no moving parts, and the engine is not hot). However a smoke machine is super expensive to buy (but there are lots of examples of cheap homemade ones off the internet to get the job done)
I dont know how many miles your vehicle has on it or when you did your last tune up, but based on just the year and you telling me about it raining with high moisture and that condition made your vehicle have a hard start and idle rough. Makes me think you may have an ignition issue and may need to change out your spark plugs, spark plug wires, and perhaps the ignition coil. There are numerous ways to test all of these components, but my favorite simple way is to use a water spray bottle, and look for arcing. Here is a link to a video from eric the car guy kinda showing this method off ua-cam.com/video/x-U9WqJfaJs/v-deo.html I do it just like this (better to do this when darker to help see an arcing) If I dont see anything something I like to do is also hook a test light up to ground source and run the test light probe all around to try to get an arc to my probe. If you get an arc or see arcing that means the components are leaking voltage and need replaced. I have a video about replacing the plugs and another video about the ignition coil replacement (these ignition coils are prone to crack, leak, and arc).
Well I hope this info helps you out and you are able to figure out your problem. Also I wanted to say thanks for the nice comment you left I appreciate it, and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
Thanks so much for the video, I've always been a backyard mechanic and will tackle anything. I'm used to the old iron from the 60's and 70's when things were so much simpler. These videos help so much in finding all the bolts, plug ins and hoses. You know what to expect and look for when doing the job. I just finished up the intake gaskets on my 99 Explorer and from start to finish was 2 hours 15 minutes. Piece of cake thanks to the help of your video. Much appreciation from a long time Ford fanatic.
Hey I am glad my video helped you out, thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Thank you for your video. I would have never attempted a repair like this. Following along with yours, step by step, 100% helpful and educational. Thank you again
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!!
Thank you so much! I need to remove the upper intake manifold to swap out the thermostat housing and I was a bit lost, even with the manual. Your tip regarding the computer cable for the back bolts is gold! My 98 XLT thanks you.
Thanks so much for watching!!
You don’t need to remove the upper intake manifold
@@figibloom what made u change them. Was u having very rough cold starts on low degree morning.
Thank you for the video it helped a lot. I was getting a bank 1 bank 2 lean code. I live in Alberta Canada where it gets extremely cold. On start up I had to keep my foot on the gas until it warmed up just to keep the vehicle running. I threw money at some other things but I should have done this first. She doesn't hunt to idle now and runs like a champ. Buy the gaskets take the time to replace them. They are a crucial part of the engine.
Glad it helped. Thank you for watching!
Fantastic video. Learned a heck of a lot. At one point, I actually thought The engine had been replaced. You resolved that. Thank you
Thanks so much for watching!!
AJ, these two videos were outstanding. Pulled my upper and lower, swapped the PCV valve (including the otherwise impossible down tube) while I was in there, replaced the gaskets, and buttoned it all back up, all thanks to you, man. One little suggestion that could pay big dividends: cover the intakes to minimize debris settling into the block, and to prevent a stray bolt from dropping into the head. So you're the MAN. Thanks for saving me a ton of time and research. Well done!
+ABC ABC
Hey I am glad my videos helped you out. Also you are right about covering up the holes to prevent any stray objects from falling inside the engine (would really suck to drop a bolt down in there, that could be a really bad day for sure) I cant remember if I showed stuffing rags in and over the holes or if I showed that on a different intake video I did, but yes you are absolutely correct cover that stuff up for sure. Well thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, I appreciate it. Have a good day.
Thanks AJ, I just watched both pt1 & pt2 ,very well done and explained . I have that familiar hiss hiss and poor cold starts ( in colder weather) then once warm it runs fine, this video is exactly what I suspected I would have to do. I also got to see a few possible pitfalls I could have easily run into. Your video will help a great deal. Cheers ! from Victoria BC Canada
Thanks for watching both pt1 & pt2 I appreciate it. I hope my video helps you out. Thanks again for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day, and good luck to you if you do this job.
thanks for the video. I did this a few years back on my 99. Upper was a PITA but lower was easier, as you showed here. The reason I changed them then, was I wasn't certain if the PO had done it based on a TSB, so I did as a precaution. Never had any indication of issues so far.
+Kalspeed
Yeah the upper was for sure a PITA. Yeah I do believe there was a few TSBs on this, because the intakes on these are notorious for leaks. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
thank you for this, my 99 really needs them done and I found the video extremely helpful!
You are welcome, I am glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the nice comment. Have a good day.
Thanks for the videos! Just finished putting it back together and it runs great.
Thank you for watching!!
Thanks for the video! I am just about to replace the lower and upper intake gaskets on my 1999. I have a really rough idle when it is cold and I have seen, quite a few times from reading up on it, that this could be the cause of the problem. I look forward to tackling it this weekend, once again really appreciate the video!
+Josh Groover
Hey you are welcome, and good luck to you. I hope changing out your gaskets works for you. Let me know how it goes. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Hey bless you man great detail video, appreciate you taking the time to upload it
Thank you for watching!!
From the future, and hopefully you'll respond but where did you get the replacement gaskets from and did you use loc tite or anything? Torque specs as well
Great video. I started my project today. This video is the best. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks so much my 99 runs so much better now!
Thanks for watching!!
Great job especially one handed
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Very informative and descriptive.
Thanks for watching!
Did you say that you tort the lower intake bolts at 110 foot pounds of torque and the upper intake plenum bolts at 62-in pounds I think is what you said is that the correct because I have that same engine that's a very engine not all of them look like it took me forever to find a new one to replace the one that I had where the timing sets it went bad and messed the engine up so I'm in the process of I've got it out I've got the new engine I'm just reassembling the engine and I'm getting mixed results and information on what those torque specs should be on those bolts
@ 7:06 felt better than pulling out of some tight cat 😺 rest easy sir 🙏
nice 2 part thanks
This is really helpful!
Tough job mister...👍
Thanks for watching!
Gotta do mine sometime this weekend, 01 Eddie Bauer, 188K, fine warm idle, won't hardly run cold, lean on both banks and I checked all my lines
Yeah those vehicles are pretty notorious for lean conditions caused by vacuum leaks. Hey good luck to you on fixing it. I would suggest while you are in there to replace the egr tube seal (it seals the upper intake to the egr and it can leak), and maybe test your fuel injectors (ohm them out 11-18 ohms I think is spec) Maybe also take the injectors out and clean them, and replace the injector o rings (which can also be a vacuum leak). Point is if you are removing the upper and lower intake manifolds, this would be the time to check and clean fuel injectors while you are in there. I say this because a lean condition can be caused by to much air or not enough fuel, and a rich condition can be caused by to much fuel or not enough air. I hope that makes sense. Anyway thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
Yeah I'm mechanically inclined, so I'm going to do all of that, I got access to a second engine recently because the timing chains in these don't last forever, the guides break down. I've already done the thermostat housing, and without pulling the UI, that's a pain, if I was using a brand new housing, and not a donor housing, I'd have done the seals and all at once. I'll be sure to let you know how that goes too
hello friend I have to change the gaskets to my explorer but how much torque do I have to put the 8 mm screws,
thank you from VENEZUELA
You change the pcv valve? Because it's hard to get too
Ok. I have a 97 Ford explorer 4.0 v6. Sohc. Had to replace the three front timing chain guides. Now I'm putting it all back together. Yet it's been down for close to 9month. Due to weather. I'm needing help to locate the hoses from the I take with clips to not knowing where the end of the single part hose goes. Please help. Thanks in advanced
good video
Thank you for watching!
Man, what a crazy ass engine.
Yeah it is a crazy ass engine for sure. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Wow, that was quick! Hey, I just started watching some of your videos on the explorer. Are there any aftermarket parts you would recommend? Other than like a new exhaust system. Mine's got some pretty decent power, but I'm always looking for something more.
Lol. After you said dont torque them 110 foot pounds. After you got done torquing them you said " I just got done torquing them to 110 foot pounds. Very funny but great job.
You need some power tools! Change the PVC, cam plunger and use some paper towels in the intake runners when cleaning. And you need a good mount for your camera, hand held camera is hard to follow. It's a good how to video, I like that you gave the torque specs and made sure your viewers were aware of inch not foot pounds. Keep up the good work!
How do you notice if the pvc is bad
Great, I will be doing this next week
thank's for the Video
You are welcome and good luck to you on your project. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
I got 223000 on mine , haven't had any problems with this yet but I'll probably change them soon anyway, I have had the intake off to replace the thermostat housing a couple of times, I striped the intake bolts, had to make some fatter ones from wood screws, I'll replace upper and lower intake and gaskets soon, took her in yesterday for a smog and passed no problem
Mine is a 99 but I dont drive it to much it has less than a 100000 miles on it. Yeah those plastic intakes in my opinion are pretty much junk, they break way to easy. Did those wood screws seem to hold good? I may have to do that sometime in the future to mine, because it seems every time I have removed the upper intake the screws dont seem to like to go back in the right way. Well thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Have a good day.
Smoke test, isolate vehicle interior vacuum from engine compartment vacuum when testing. test both systems separately.
my upper intake manifold i have 2 bolts that dint tight that good do you thing that could be an issue ??/
4:07 that bottom left hose assembly, what's it called? It's a T hard hose that runs to 2 nipples on the upper intake manifold. Then the bottom runs down but I'm not sure to where.
Same dilemma
@@emmanuelulibarri3616 never found a name. Picked up a good one from junkyard
@@1221Ralph pretty sure your talking about the pcv valve
@@danielrenihan8115 No that's clearly not a pcv valve. It's a hollow fitting.
Well what you described being a t one going to the back side of the motor and the other to the undersides of both intake manifold is a pcv valve I broke that stupid t putting a new one in so got rid of the plastic junk and put brass
How on earth are you gonna be able to remember all of the things you disconnected from the intake cover when you put it back on lol.. Wow amazing..I have a 02 ford explorer with a hole in my upper intake and i have to replace it. This video will help me out a lot thanks..
Well just go slow and take pictures or take a video of how everything goes. Look up the service procedure on how to remove the upper intake. You can get a chilton book or haynes manual, or usually what I do is buy a subscription to www.eautorepair.net which is mitchell (a professional mechanic software) for diy auto repair. I think that is super great info about your specific vehicle you are working on. It cost around 25.00 for a year subscription, but very handy to have. I have a subscription for each of my vehicles I own. If I work on a friends car I tell them to get that so I can look up info if need be. Also most public libraries will usually have some type of automotive software similar to this you can access for free just by going up to the library. You just need to get a library card to access this type of information. Which is super handy. I just like to be able to have that type of info at my fingertips online at home. Well I hope this info helps you out, and good luck to you on replacing your upper intake. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Ok Thanks for the info. I will definitely take your advice and subscribe!
great video, if you still have a leak try spraying that hose with the clip on it you said was loose with starting fluid, I had a vacuum leak on that ,my engine light would come on because of it, I went to pick and pull, 5$ fixed my problem
Yeah that clip was leaking and I did the same thing you did, I went to pick and pull and got a replacement part and it fixed it. My bank 1 is perfect now, but my bank 2 has a little bit higher fuel positive fuel trims, it is within 10 percent so I am not to worried about, but I am still looking for a slight leak somewhere. Thanks for the comment and the suggestions. Have a good day.
Did you drain any coolant or anything doing this job?
Thankyou! Great video!
Thank you for watching!!
Did you ever find the other leak?
Mr. AJ PIERCE,tanks your explanation. But I have a doubt: in the video, on 16:20 time, you talk about ´torque level´we have to use. And I don´t understand well.
Is between 107 and 123 inch/pound? Would you confirm this torque range please?
Anyway, tanks a lot.
The upper intake manifold bolts are torqued to 62 inch pounds (which is only about 5 ft pounds), and the lower intake manifold bolts are torqued to 107-123 inch pounds (which is only about 9 ft pounds) 12 inch pounds = 1 ft lb. So basically I was just pointing out the importance of using the correct amount of torque on the bolts. Most torque wrenches are set using ft lbs scale, and if you did not adjust to inch pounds you would most likely snap the bolt. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Where do I get my upper intake manifold gaskets from? Where did you get yours? Also I can't find any place that has the crankcase breather seal either. Any suggestions?
Andrew Linton ford
i will have to thank you in advance good sir, as i am preparing myself for this adventure, im going to do this to my 01 sport, and it might not be just the same but its pretty close (gasket wise) according to autozone, but i am also getting lean codes both banks and a very rough idle, i cant stand this shit anymore haha! will let you know if it worked for me !!
again thank you!
+Carlitos Ferreiro
Well good luck to you, I hope everything works out for you. One thing I might suggest is maybe testing the fuel injectors (use a meter and ohm them out while you are in there), maybe take them out and clean them and check spray pattern,(lots of videos on youtube on how to do this) and maybe replace the injector o ring gaskets while you are down in there,(if you decide to remove them and clean them) (those o rings can be a vacuum leak source. The reason I say this is because lean conditions can be a result of either to much air (vacuum leaks, or unmetered air getting in) or could be not enough fuel (plugged injectors, dirty injectors,), and since you have to take all of that stuff off anyway. Now would be a good time to do it, just easier to access while everything is off. Well anyway as I said good luck to you. Thanks for the comment and let me know how it goes. Have a good day.
This makes it seem like by just removing the upper part I can get the injectors...Does the lower part the one you are taking out in this part have to come out to change injectors? Thanks trying to figure out what gaskets to order before I tear it down.
From what I remember I believe you can get to the fuel injectors by removing just the upper intake. When you order intake gaskets they come with both the upper and lower intake gaskets. (the felpro kit is around $7 on rockauto.com and the same set is about $20 from autozone) Now when pulling the upper intake you may want to replace your egr o-ring tube seal and perhaps the pcv valve in the rear, and if replacing fuel injectors you may want to replace the fuel injector adapter seals that the injectors seal into. I have a few videos related to this, and here are the links.
ua-cam.com/video/z6_0f1uqe00/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/LlXtWKLmfd8/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/1bBBaxCgsOE/v-deo.html
Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
I am thinking of tackling this too someone told me my intake gasket is probably bad be a use it runs midrange on the guage and I cannot keep water in the radiator because it keeps getting pushed out ( I put water in after doing the thermostat housing until I made sure there were not any more leaks ) I have a die in it and that is not getting into the oil so I am glad it is not the head .
and I am very thankful for the video I haven't worked on these newer vehicle s yet more accustomed to the older easier one's lol
Well if you keep losing coolant (or water) I would suggest you might try pressure testing your coolant system with everything shut down and the engine completely cooled down to check for leaks. You can use a radiator pressure tester. Or make a homemade version, but basically you are pressuring the coolant system (usually around 16psi) to see if the system can hold pressure. If it does not hold pressure it is leaking somewhere. Doing this will usually help you pin point any coolant leaks. If you do not see a leak externally, but you see the pressure going down, then suspect internal leak. Another test you can try is to look inside each cylinder with a tiny borescope (you can buy them, but I made my own for a few dollars and it works very well) Anyway you can usually see if a cylinder is leaking coolant (or water) internally because that cylinder will usually be much cleaner looking than the cylinders that are not leaking. Normal ones are usually coated in a little carbon, and the ones that leak are much cleaner. Also another thing that could be happening (I am not sure of your exact cooling system) If you have on the radiator by the rad cap a connection that goes to an overflow tank and that thing is super full, and your rad is not full, you might have a bad radiator cap. Sometimes when pressure builds in the coolant system from getting hotter the rad cap pressure relief opens and coolant goes to the overflow tank, now when the system cools back down this should create a vacuum and the rad cap should open under vacuum and the fluid should go back into the radiator. (I hope that makes sense)
Here is a link for more info on how the rad cap functionsasecertificationtraining.com/radiators-in-automotive-engines/ . I hope this info helps you out and gives you some more things to think about. But bottom line if you cant keep coolant in the radiator something is leaking somewhere and this should help you find it. Well good luck you ya and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce I have some leak dye in the system but it is not leaking anywhere , just coming out the neck ,or being pushed out the over flow bottle if the cap is on
If you keep having to replace coolant it is leaking out somewhere. So the first thing I would suggest is a coolant system pressure test, to see if the system holds pressure. If it holds pressure that is good, but if it does not hold pressure figure out where it is leaking. If the pressure holds (test or just replace rad cap, have to have special tester to test rad cap)Also with a pressure gauge on the system you can start the vehicle and watch the pressure gauge if pressure rises rapidly there may be combustion gases getting into your coolant system (bad head gasket) That is one test you can try. Another is to check for combustion gases in the cooling system by using a chemical checker (ex block tester,) you basically put this tool over the radiator and squeeze the bulb if the fluid changes color in the tool you have combustion gases in your coolant. (bad head gasket) Another test to do is a compression test. If you have low compression on one or multiple cylinders that could be a head gasket problem. Also you may try opening your rad cap/or reservoir (only do this test on a completely cooled down engine) then start the car and look for bubbles in the coolant (if a lot of bubbles might be combustion gases in coolant)
After verifying system's ability to hold pressure, engine compression, a chemical combustion checker, and rad cap replacement. If all of that test out well, and you are still losing coolant, something must be making the system overheat (which should illuminate engine light, and make dash gauge read hot) and push coolant out the overflow. Perhaps bad water pump, bad thermostat, plugged/dirty radiator, bad radiator fans. Also the engine itself could be running hot, from numerous things.(ex exhaust restrictions ,lean conditions,) Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
I was just curious, but did you ever have to change out your head gasket? That's what the ford dealer told me was leaking coolant.
+Josh Groover
No my head gasket was fine, but If you suspect a head gasket problem you can check a few things to confirm. Usually first thing I do is look at the oil dipstick and oil cap (if it looks milky that means coolant is mixing with oil) One step further is to get a sample of oil and you can send it to a lab to have it tested (called an oil analysis kit) this usually cost around 20-30 dollars. (it is amazing all the things an oil sample can tell you about your vehicle) Another test is to pressure test your coolant system using a coolant system pressure tester (if it does not hold pressure you are losing coolant somewhere). Another test is to use a block tester kit (also called combustion leak tester) It is a simple test done over the radiator cap or coolant reservoir it is a cylinder shaped tool that holds fluid, and the fluid tests the vapors inside the cooling system. It changes colors if combustion gasses are in the system. (dont do this test if coolant system is hot or under pressure you could get burned) Another test is to check compression on all the cylinders (usually bad head gaskets show weak cylinder compression, basically if the head gasket is not sealing compression will leak and not build. To do this test you use a compression tester, and to do this test you take out the spark plugs, disable the fuel system, disable the ignition system, screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole, and crank the engine over and see what compression you get in the cylinder. Another test is to look at the tail pipe if you have white smoke coming out of the tail pipe you might have coolant leaking into the combustion chamber, but basically coolant leaks into the cylinder and gets burned up and makes white smoke out the tail pipe (there are videos on youtube showing this) Well here are a few basic tests you can do to test for bad head gaskets. I hope this info helps you out. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Why did you change it
where did you get your gasket set
Can anyone possibly tell me if doing this for a 99 ranger pretty much the same procedure?
hello where did you get the upper intake gasket set? everyone sells the lower but not the upper thanks?
I used felpro ms90890 I believe. This part number has both upper and lower intake gaskets. I bought mine from oreilly auto parts. I think it was less than $20 You can type ms90890 under parts on the autozone.com, oreillyauto.com, or go to rockauto.com and type in that number and felpro and find the part or you can type in your vehicle info and find it that way as well. I would suggest rockauto.com I have been using them a lot because they have really good prices, and a good return policy. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
It was good video
I really appreciate these videos. I'll be doing this on my 2000 this weekend, assuming I don't have to order the gaskets online. It idles rough in the morning and dies if I don't keep pressure on the gas, at least until it warms a little. Bad milage, too. I've got lean codes on both banks and all cylinders are reporting a misfire, so I hope this does the trick. Did you have to reset the check engine light after this?
+Allen Reed
Well good luck to ya on changing out your gaskets this weekend. You may want to try using a smoke machine on your intake to see if you can find a leak before replacing everything. I think the best way to pinpoint a vacuum leak is with a smoke machine. A lean condition can mean to much air throwing the air fuel ratio off or not enough fuel throwing the ratio off. (lean is to much air or not enough fuel, rich is to much fuel or not enough air) I would try to rule a few things out before replacing them (not a big deal though intake gaskets are inexpensive and yours probably do need replaced) If you have a scan tool look at o2 sensors to check function (see if they respond with propane enrichment and vacuum leaks) Look at fuel trims see what they are doing, and what they do when you snap the throttle. Check fuel pressures and fuel volume flow. Also change fuel filter, and clean injectors. If replacing the gaskets, it might be a good time to replace fuel injector o-rings, and pull injectors and clean them and test them (I wish I did that when I had everything off) Well just some things to think about. To me it sounds like you have a problem that is affecting both banks, and not just one bank. So most likely the problem will be something that is common to both banks. (maf sensor, fuel, or vacuum leak ) Well I hope this info is helpful to you. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce Well, I finally got around to doing the intake manifold gaskets. All the advice you gave above is great, but I wasn't able to it as I don't have the means or know-how. I intended to change my fuel injector O-rings, but when I got a look at the fuel rail, I didn't feel confident removing it. I'll have to either learn more or have a pro do it when I can afford to (or maybe one day you'll release a video on it, haha). However, I was able to change the upper and lower manifold gaskets, and I have to say, the Explorer is running MUCH better. No more hard starts or dying while idling anymore. More get up and go, fuel economy, even the brakes seem to work better. The short of it is: I owe you a steak.
+Allen Reed sup
i head white residue on my dip stick, what does the head gasket look like
+james dean
Here is a link to what a head gasket looks like www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289847 just scroll down a little. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce thank you! i will start with what u did first, if i still have white stuff in my oil , i will change more gaskets....tks
Some guys start from the easiest and work toward the more difficult . where I start from the most difficult to remove working my way forward towards the easiest ..and I remove wire harnesses fuel rails anything that might cause interference at all anywhere ..If your ever doing this job in the future you might wanna take some compressed air and blast off the intake valley PRIOR to lifting off the lower plenum so no animal debris like Chipmunk nuts & other stuff does not fall into your motor....But while your intake plenum is off is a great time to take some Simple green or Purple power and clean it really good inside and out both upper & lower you will find that inside the intake they runner's do collect plenty of crap and let's face it clean is always better than dirty ... just blow it off good when done ..
I need this done to my truck
Que modelo es?
How has the car been idling after the repair?
+Jason Gallardo
It has been running a lot better at idle, I think replacing the intake gaskets made a big difference, but now I think it has another issue. I believe I have some dirty or clogged fuel injectors or perhaps another fuel delivery issue. I have just been to busy to mess with it. I have been busy dealing with finals for school. I hope to do some more work on it in the near future. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce I hope to tackle this project during Xmas break as my exploder is also idling rough.i only have 215k on mine and was quite surprised you almost hit 400 k wow great milage never seen that in an explorer.cheers!
Oh my gosh how do you know how to torque in pound or what? 107 inch pound? What how do i know when it's at that torque level? 16:25
Use a inch pound torque wrench. They sell inch pound and foot pounds. If you don't have one the big three auto parts stores Advance, Auto Zone and O'Reilly have them in the free loaner tools. Pay a deposit, use it, take it back and get your money back. Harbor Freight has some cheap ones.
how long does it take to get it back together?
I took my time and I think I removed everything and cleaned up and prepped everything in one day (maybe 2 hours). Then the next day I put everything back together. (maybe another 2 hours) But I did everything when it was super hot outside, and I used only hand tools. If I had to do it over again I would use an impact or a drill to remove the long screw bolts holding the intake on, (they are long look kinda like deck screws) and I would remove the pcm connector and cable off the firewall to get clearer access to the back bolts. I think this job could be done in a few hours no problem. What took so long was the cleaning and prep work, and the back bolts (just remove the pcm connector and cables much easier to do) Also if you do this job, it is probably a good idea to test and clean your fuel injectors (maybe even replace the fuel injector o ring gaskets, could be source of leak) Also replace the egr ring gasket as well (it seals the intake from the egr tube and they leak) Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks.
Has anyone done this on a 2001 Ford Explorer? The Haynes Manual indicates that the 2001 model is "one piece" although the set-up looks the same as it does in this video.
Yes I've run into the putting a new engine into my Ford explorer 2001 sport 4x4 there are many different types of intake assemblies that go on the tops of this 4.6 l engine and that's where a lot of people have problems trying to find the right gaskets and stuff like that and the place I even got the engine from they didn't even know that there were different since the engines like the ones manufactured before 03 of $2,000 I think is once one type of intake and then the ones after that that's a totally different type of intake and I argued with the them people at powertrain sport motors and they never would do anything to fix it or rectify it to fix the gasket problem cuz it was supposed to come with gaskets and it was the wrong gaskets
Lower intake. 110 foot pounds check lol. @18:18.
ok thanks.
Dam Ford for building such a bs abomination!!! They could have had a single pipe intake on top as a single piece and then all you would need to do is pull the 12 bolts and swap the gaskets...
Never, Ever use a Scotch-Brite pad to clean gasket surfaces!!!!!!!!!!
its this is 1999 ford explorer
Yes it is a 1999 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC
Did you end up replacing the gasket under the fuel rail too?
I replaced the fuel injector o-rings under the fuel rail, and my fuel injector adapter seals. Not sure what gasket under the fuel rail you are talking about, as far as I know the fuel rail only has o rings. I replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets if you are talking about the lower intake gasket. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.