If you want to support the channel head over to fishofhex.com Buy 3 get 1 free on all 3d printing:fishofhex.com/pages/3dprintingpage NO3 & PO4:fishofhex.com/collections/supplements
I have been in the hobby for almost 20yrs now. I have had to move a bunch of times in that stretch and had nutrients spikes. I have actually gone YEARS without feeding my tank (i just have corals) and was always trying to drive my nutrients lower... and having more and more problems. I finally found videos about dosing nitrates and Phosphate and my tank perked up dramatically over about 10months. My tank looks better than ever! Your vids helped a lot! Thanks!!
Man this is the best damn info !! I agree with removing the cyano and slime algae cause whenever you go to test phosphate it’s damn near always gonna read 0 but trust that algae is consuming the phosphate faster then You can test for. In my experience most forms of algae like cyano , bubble & green slime all like phosphate much more then nitrate. whenever I used to dose NeoPhos the algae would explode trying to keep it at Po4 0.04 was nearly impossible cause like I said by the time you test for it , it’s already gone.
so how do you manage this issue. i have an extremely well stocked tank and i feed a lot. and i mean alot. but my phosphate and nitrate always test zero. i have never got a reading above zero on either. i do have a small amount of cyano and some hair algae in the overflows. i do have a refugium but i only have the light on for about 4 hours a day now. skimmer only on for a few hours a day as well. still zero. i have others that keep there levels at an actual amount but dont really understand how they do it without an overwhelming algae issue?
I got tired of playing the see-saw nutrients game. My tank, about two years old, has always had low Po4 issues from the beginning because I under feed (only 2 fish) and I ran the tank too clean (skimmer/filter floss/roller mat/gfo/UV) to prevent the ugly phase (UV/gfo/roller mat is now off-line). My rock is a combination of dry rock and 5 pieces of live gulf rock. Cyano has been my only battle, never had any green algae blooms at all. Po4 always test 0 and No3 stays around 20 ppm. After using Red Slime remover to kill the Cyano, I mixed another Red Slime treatment amount in a dosing container and set my Apex to dose 5ml per day if I see any signs of Cyano trying to come back. It's been working great and imo, is preferable to dose trace amounts of it over time rather than slamming the tank with a full dosage of chemicals. I decided earlier this week to experiment with dosing nutrients to rectify the low Po4 issue, so I ordered some Brightwell Neophos. Funny enough, I got an alert yesterday saying that my package was damaged during shipping. Perhaps that was a sign to tell me to just continue with my current method....lol
Having a massive GHA issue for 3-4 months now. Have gone through two doses of Reef Flux, did a treatment of Chemiclean with no real success. Have done multiple 4 day blackouts that has really only cleared up the sand bed. I left the P04 at Zero (Hanna ULR tester) for two months almost before the corals started looking like death and that still did not cut back on the GHA. In fact, I felt like my CUC quick eating algae when the phosphates bottomed out. So my question is, how high could nitrates possibly bee when it tests at 15PPM but also being consumed by the algae itself.
My tank is relatively new. It has already cycled, but now I’m having dino growing, and I know it’s because my nitrates and phosphates are zero. I have purigen and chemi-pure on the filter. Is that the reason the nitrates are still zero? I wanted to start dosing but I was wondering if I should remove the Purigen and chemi pure and see if that will help, or should I dose without removing that?. Everybody gives me a different answer, I don’t want to cause more problems to my tank, what should I do?
I am not a professional but I think the best way to get rid of algae or Dino or anything for that fact is growing coral. I feel like when my coral is growing it is out competing everything else. When my coral are not happy and are struggling I feel that’s when bad things appear. I can be completely wrong about this but it’s just something I realized in reef over the years in my tanks. Nothing sucks up more n04 n03 then growing corals.
I thought that I read somewhere that zeroing out your phosphates can also cause a cyno outbreak? Is this still the case? If so, wouldnt that be a reason to dose phosphates?
If you want to support the channel head over to fishofhex.com
Buy 3 get 1 free on all 3d printing:fishofhex.com/pages/3dprintingpage
NO3 & PO4:fishofhex.com/collections/supplements
Good points raised Travis. Keeping your nitrates and phosphates stable is very important.
I have been in the hobby for almost 20yrs now. I have had to move a bunch of times in that stretch and had nutrients spikes. I have actually gone YEARS without feeding my tank (i just have corals) and was always trying to drive my nutrients lower... and having more and more problems.
I finally found videos about dosing nitrates and Phosphate and my tank perked up dramatically over about 10months. My tank looks better than ever! Your vids helped a lot! Thanks!!
Wich levels you have?
Man this is the best damn info !! I agree with removing the cyano and slime algae cause whenever you go to test phosphate it’s damn near always gonna read 0 but trust that algae is consuming the phosphate faster then You can test for. In my experience most forms of algae like cyano , bubble & green slime all like phosphate much more then nitrate. whenever I used to dose NeoPhos the algae would explode trying to keep it at Po4 0.04 was nearly impossible cause like I said by the time you test for it , it’s already gone.
so how do you manage this issue. i have an extremely well stocked tank and i feed a lot. and i mean alot. but my phosphate and nitrate always test zero. i have never got a reading above zero on either. i do have a small amount of cyano and some hair algae in the overflows. i do have a refugium but i only have the light on for about 4 hours a day now. skimmer only on for a few hours a day as well. still zero. i have others that keep there levels at an actual amount but dont really understand how they do it without an overwhelming algae issue?
I got tired of playing the see-saw nutrients game. My tank, about two years old, has always had low Po4 issues from the beginning because I under feed (only 2 fish) and I ran the tank too clean (skimmer/filter floss/roller mat/gfo/UV) to prevent the ugly phase (UV/gfo/roller mat is now off-line). My rock is a combination of dry rock and 5 pieces of live gulf rock. Cyano has been my only battle, never had any green algae blooms at all. Po4 always test 0 and No3 stays around 20 ppm. After using Red Slime remover to kill the Cyano, I mixed another Red Slime treatment amount in a dosing container and set my Apex to dose 5ml per day if I see any signs of Cyano trying to come back. It's been working great and imo, is preferable to dose trace amounts of it over time rather than slamming the tank with a full dosage of chemicals. I decided earlier this week to experiment with dosing nutrients to rectify the low Po4 issue, so I ordered some Brightwell Neophos. Funny enough, I got an alert yesterday saying that my package was damaged during shipping. Perhaps that was a sign to tell me to just continue with my current method....lol
Thanks for the info!
Having a massive GHA issue for 3-4 months now. Have gone through two doses of Reef Flux, did a treatment of Chemiclean with no real success. Have done multiple 4 day blackouts that has really only cleared up the sand bed. I left the P04 at Zero (Hanna ULR tester) for two months almost before the corals started looking like death and that still did not cut back on the GHA. In fact, I felt like my CUC quick eating algae when the phosphates bottomed out. So my question is, how high could nitrates possibly bee when it tests at 15PPM but also being consumed by the algae itself.
So i have 52ppm nitrates and 0.00 PO4. And i have 0 algae in my tank. I presume i should start dosing Po4 right
This hits home with where I’m at right now. How’d you know 😂
I second that lol literally watching his old videos
My tank is relatively new. It has already cycled, but now I’m having dino growing, and I know it’s because my nitrates and phosphates are zero. I have purigen and chemi-pure on the filter. Is that the reason the nitrates are still zero? I wanted to start dosing but I was wondering if I should remove the Purigen and chemi pure and see if that will help, or should I dose without removing that?. Everybody gives me a different answer, I don’t want to cause more problems to my tank, what should I do?
I am not a professional but I think the best way to get rid of algae or Dino or anything for that fact is growing coral. I feel like when my coral is growing it is out competing everything else. When my coral are not happy and are struggling I feel that’s when bad things appear. I can be completely wrong about this but it’s just something I realized in reef over the years in my tanks. Nothing sucks up more n04 n03 then growing corals.
I thought that I read somewhere that zeroing out your phosphates can also cause a cyno outbreak? Is this still the case? If so, wouldnt that be a reason to dose phosphates?
Zero no3 and po4 can cause dino. Cyano usually is a imbalance of good bacteria.
What about brown algae from low nutrients?
Do you have the same approach wen it comes to dinos?
i have cyano/diatoms and 0 phos and 0 nitrates...
What if I have Dino’s, my tank age is almost 8 month?
What about dosing with diatoms?