*SWIPOWER 2023 Models* SWI 3000w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEgPyhT SWI 3200w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF5ednb *Join, Follow, Support* ko-fi.com/john4kiera OR www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL ALFFAA 1500w DC/AC inverter amzn.to/3sJmh9r ✨LiTime Mini 100 Amp Hour LiFePO4 shrsl.com/43gwk all SWI POWER INVERTERS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbHZlX *EBAY source for SWI-power* ebay.us/jL1FKT Don't forget to Subscribe and Hit the BELL!
You most definitely know your stuff & have me sold in the SWI Power 3200. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise. No bud light or dress for this Yankee TY ❤
John and Kera. Thank you so much for letting me know how great the SWE 3200 is. It uses only one amp in idle mode and it is the only inverter that I have found that does this. I did a review on Amazon and hope that people see it. WOW
John, I really appreciate the in depth videos; you've been a massive help as I try to find the most reliable yet cost-effective inverter for the portable solar powered generators I'm building. Question: do you have any experience with cnswipower's lower wattage inverters (like 2000W and 2500W)? For most of my projects, my clients don't need any more simultaneous power than a standard 15A circuit can offer, so I was looking into these lower wattage models due to their incredible prices and smaller form factor. At maximum, these systems are typically meant to be used to run a fridge, chest freezer, sump pump, and a charger or two. What do you think about using one of their lower wattage models?
Go with the 2500, the 2000 has only 2 cap mains, the 2500 has 3 and is only a few dollars more. That means starting power for inductive loads. Very important when your not going to watch it all day. On that link set below the video one that says EBAY source, look down a ways, they have the 2500 as I recall ships in a few days.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 awesome, that's what I was leaning towards as well. I want just enough redundancy to cover potential freak occurrences and the 2500W seems to be the sweet spot. Thanks a bunch, man! Keep this stuff up!
Good vid and info thanks. Definitely influenced my decision. Makes sense too, I have a 400 from 12.8 I loaded up shooting for 400 watts with a plenty of 2 car batteries in parallel fully charged pushing it. Falls on its face after 270 watts, will hold a 260 watts steady barley. To sum it up, you want to run a 2000 watt load, get a 4000 watt inverter, that's just the way it is.
Thanks man. The tests ive done on this little 400 line right up with what you was saying. I'm not rich, i don't plan on buying but one more of these puppies.I figure 24 to 120 using 2 or 4 car batteries, that way they can be charged with jumper cables and a car charging in parallel@@JOHNDANIEL1
If you're doing that modification of the mod square, I've seen 100k, 10k, 1k, resistors added in that may help do the same thing for cheaper. Please let me know!
how do you do the test to get the CSL value? that would be a good video. I didn't really understand the .5V 1V 2V thing you mentioned for the 1s and 5s results.
It is a stable rate of amps before your "sized for test" draw on battery supply starts to cascade down in volts without increasing load. They tend to increase predictably and peak then go up fast like bat Shyt crazy when your inverter is crashing on carrying ability in efficiency.
OK, I will see about setting up a active testing for a video, It will be a long one. But maybe you can visualize horsepower curve, when amps start going higher than the output watts they should result in. All the factories test these for premium efficiency, but always fudge it. There is a point your creating more resistive heat in the unit than flowing out power can result in. That's the point of component effectiveness you exceed.
I've binge watched your vids on inverters, thanks for the detailed overview on innards. Would you recommend the SWIPower over the Erayak for limited budgets? You mentioned that Erayak makers have also been around for a long time so I wondered which would be the better buy. Looking at 2000/2500w. - Edit: Just re-watched your latest vid on Erayak and you mentioned it is a division of SWIPower so guess either would be great.
Great videos, I'm currently shopping for inverters and would like to know conversion efficiency as well, maybe at 50% of csl. I'm going to check out your in depth reviews.
For the Xijia, which is SWI-Power. Using the 2500, 3000 and 3200 for examples: At a perfect heat to load balance they run over 87%. Over that is when they drop and how we measured CSL for them. At over 10% and under 40% they are over 90% efficient though. At idle they are averaging 27% lower in active current support than most all published data on similar capable models within price ranges of others that are up to $300 more in cost.
Dead honesty? bang for the buck, TIME USB. shrsl.com/43h37 Their 220 AH 150 bms and its metal cased. Cheapest cost, pure cells, and best BMS in a budget battery. 4 of them is a house system for a average 2 person home, 4 = 600 amps capable in 12 volt, and real test show them exceeding 228ah, usable for anyone with normal needs. If I knew that they were actually Shenzhen Newton New Energy Technology Co., Ltd back 3 years ago, I would be running theirs exclusively in my home if I could have afforded them then, the Power Queens on mobile applications due to their weather stable cells, and Redodo still on all average but constant draw stuff like my well house.
You have to admit, these 3200 are the home solution while the 3000 is the mobile and remote solution. I have been running SWI Power for over 10 years, sold and traded them, bought more. Never let me down.
Mr Daniel I cant find the video that you put out a while back on a window ac unit that was energy saving,and consumed not much to run it. Could you provide a brand name and model number ? Great thanks. Stay cool here in our Texas heat.
Which inverter you recommend for semi truck? I have four X2 dual purpose/deep cycle SLI31AGMDPM, 1370 MARINE CRANKING AMPL, 1150 COLD CRANKING AMPS, I was thinking to buy new model Duracell 3000 Watt High Power Inverter?
Save $110 on those modified sinewave and get a pure sine SWI power. SWI-12 3200w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF5ednb and they should have them to you in a week.
Hello Mr. Daniel, I have a saw table that requires 220volt, 15 amps to operate. I purchased the sungold inverter/charger 4000 watt, 120/240 volt @24 volts. It does not run the saw table. Can you clarify the problem and recommend the right inverter? Thanks for your videos!
Dad is in hospital I will answer best I can. he would say try more battery or a starter wired into the cutting saw. he installs them and they work great. look up tabel saw starter box they are cheap. Kiera
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hello Kiera, thank you for the information. Do you have a brand name/model number of the table saw starter box that your father uses? I hope your father is OK and home soon. Thanks, Brad.
John can you run 2 inverters off same battery and feed same ac loads.... So like run a 5k inverter day time but at night run that small 1500w that draws only 3w idle?
We do that already, top inverters are day running, bottom inverter a old Powerbright runs night duty. You just can't get a old powerbright anymore, New ones are made by OGE. And since Xijia made them pre-2016, it lead me to SwiPower Xijia way back when.
Hello John, Thanks for this video. Very instructive. I'm in the planning phase of a van build. If you don't mind, I have a few questons. I plan to use 200Ah Power Queen LiFePO4 with the space to eventually add another 200Ah. Should I go for 1x200Ah or 2x100Ah. With the upgrade, I would have 2x200Ah or 4x100Ah. I'm also looking for an Inverter/Charger (to charge from shore power). SWIPOWER doesn't seem to have one for the 120V grid. Can you recommend an inverter/charger? Or is it better to have separate units, i.e. a better inverter and a better shore power charger? Finally, maybe a dumb question, if I have a 200Ah battery bank, can I still install a 3000W inverter with some protections/limitations? Thanks
If I am in your shoes? Go first with 2 of the 100ah Mini from them, shrsl.com/46fls get them direct and get the most recent made. Very heat and abuse tolerant. If you do the create a account, you can get another 3% off on them on that site. Later add 2-3 more and as a 4 or 5 pack you will have insane power for a 3000 watt inverter without risk of over heating or over loading. When you build that van, the inverter with charger is best using a Sun Gold, SG 3000 12 volt model amzn.to/4501S19 ( Gen Start, Charger, Pure sine, Auto utility switching and a MUST, a Leaptrend DC to DC 60 amp charger too amzn.to/4501UGj Its built like a Brick Shythouse! And the best part of using the newest Mini 100 from Power queen is you can actually grow it to 6 total with a ability to run everything AND the newest DC powered roof air I will be showing soon that is $500 cheaper then the popular promoted to the hilt ones you see on You Toooby! Stay Tuned, got it coming in short order! When you add solar, Use the Newpowa 50w panels ( see how narrow amzn.to/3OsxchJ ) in groups x2 for 44 volts to a HQST 60A charger amzn.to/3ql6gbQ to your 12 volt mains, contact any of them direct, ask for a 10% off on bulk buy, and ask for a huge discount and you can get on average 250 more watts on your average van roof with same space and weight.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks for this quick and generous response. I also was thinking of 2x 100Ah Mini (smaller weight, smaller footprint) for my build. Thanks to confirm. For the inverter/charger, you suggest a 3000W. Back to my dumb question, if I have a 200Ah battery bank, can I still install a 3000W inverter/charger? If yes, what should I do to protect the equipment ... and myself?
@@francoisboucher9648Install a quality 200 amp DC circuit breaker. amzn.to/45iTYPZ The inverter will run on as little as a 7 amp Lead Acid battery, however it will only produce that in value, about 75 watts till it drains it. So when your running it on a pair of 200ah mini it will be still able to peak start items since the Mini has 130% capable short time coverage, but not run them constant over 2000 watts (100 amp constant x2) without tripping the breaker. Adding a 3rd battery ASAP will solve this and you can change the DC circuit breaker to 300 amp. If you have just basic credit you can when on the power queen site get a payment plan making it a lot easier, no real interest is charged.
John, thanks for the in-depth video and testing. I'm in the market for an inverter for an emergency power back-up for fridge/ freezer, gas furnace and small sump pump. I tested the surge current on each of these and the worst is still under 12 amps (the pump). It will hardly ever get used (and when used, only until power restored) so a Swipower seems like maybe a good price to quality fit. There is a good price available on the 3000w so I'm tempted to go with that. But I notice you did not test the newer SwiPower 3000w model (with the 2 Nema-15 outlets and the new lcd display on the face of the unit, and not at the end). Is this newer model 3000 not test as well / to be avoided? Same Mosfets on both models?
The new one has been installed and has been working for months full time to run 3 freezers and a 7.5 cubic foot refrigerator in that trailer I have with the solar roof on it. I thought I did do a power test on it somewhere. It is as good and better than the older models.
How loud is that 3200 watt xijia Inverter under load? I am thinking of buying one for my trailer to replace my modified sine wave inverter I got from tractor supply a few years ago which is pretty loud, It is louder than my window ac in my trailer I use to run off the inverter.
Yes, they are great little units, a bit heavy but easy to install and use. Be sure to replace the cables that come with any inverter, not just these. Use minimum of 1/0, preferable to use 2/0 if run to battery is over 5 feet. And they need a real 400 amps battery available for full power. Put a 350 amp ANL fuse on it, and keep all contacts well tightened.
Charge controller for solar? Always use the SNRE made charge controllers. NEVER use any with fans, fans fail! The SNRE are the least likely to fail and are affordable. Not knowing what your solar or battery size is don't help much, but I run a 40 amp for every 500 watts of solar on my system. 6 are running side by side with NO needs for extra junk added to control them. The HQST 40 is made by SNRE, and lowest cost you can get for one. amzn.to/4b1KQBR
great video took a while to find a channel that actually explains what's inside. got a question not related to inverters but on my rv dc fuse panel board there is 2 30amp fuses on the board for reverse polarity protection. I upgraded my converter to a lithium charge profile and 55 amp max output and im getting 52 amps to the batteries now since I swapped out the converter . I check the fuses on the dc fuse panel and they are getting pretty warm. Wondering if the reverse protection fuses are in parallel ? if not i don't really wanna cook my dc board out camping lol
Not sure your RV, but typically Should be one fuse for the Tow Vehicle and one for the ground circuit on the converter. If you changed from a 45 amp to a 55 amp your surpassing your trailers minimal wiring, the heating on the fuses says your creating resistance somewhere. Pull power from that fuse panel, send it all to the batteries, from the battery install a Buck module for 25 to 30 amps, a DC to DC converter with current limiting then from it using at least 8 awg wire if short run, 6 awg wire if long ( both neg and pos ) to the original fuse box. Since you are not using lead acid, which has a always willingness to absorb some juice, and a LiFePO4 has a BMS that disconnects when full and lets the converter hit the fuse box with full power, you may be over amped. Hope that made sense. If you want a easy buck converter, search for "14.6 to 12.8 volt DC to DC 30 amp regulated module"
@@JOHNDANIEL1 i got a WFCO WF-8950L2-MBA Replacement RV Power Converter Lithium-Ion Main Board i upgraded the battery cables to 4awg welding cable so the cables should be good. the original was a 55amp lead acid 3 stage charger limited to 15amps. just kinda scared to burn out the reverse protection panel.
AH, your using that WFCO, OK. Then do as I explained. It is feeding full power due to it being for Lithium. It does this due to the BMS will control input to the battery, so these bounce back to full bore when the battery is full, the full bore goes into the RV harness. Run its output to batteries, from batteries use the buck boost module to supply the fuse box on the RV, that way your current limited.
The reverse protection is only needed to prevent goofs who mis install batteries. or Mis connect solar or generators. Check what WFCO has on their manual to see if you even need it with your new install that has short circuit BMS internally on its batteries. wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Updated-8950L2-MBA-Li-Ion-Manual-RP.pdf
@Јоhn Daniel says I need them in the manual. Think they must be in parallel with the positive battery terminal as 2 30amp fuses work together. Otherwise I would of blown them much sooner with 52 amps going to the battery. Still kinda worried as its pretty close to the limit of the panel.
I just recently found your channel. Man you put out some good info and I appreciate your humor. Everyone I see on UA-cam is all about the eg4 products. I was curious what you think about them and the all in one 48 v inverters. The eg4 lifepo4 batteries are supposedly the best bang for the buck
EG4 batteries are the same identical product as many re-brandings. Any All-in-one inverter is a risk to own since your one micro function fail away from a complete all systems loss. I seen goofy firmware get corrupted and take out a $19,000 system. So if your wealthy, that's fine. but if your not, that's life destroying.
Way back when we had to install back up controllers in the mega wind turbines I was part of installing in Utah, Colorado, North Texas, Kansas, and Idaho we had to do CSL test on everything. Then you had a stable power supply generator that could do 380 volts DC at 230 amps. Today I am using 400 amps of LiFePO4 with a charger attached watching when the charger gets hit needing full draw to moderate load. Same outcome, pain in the ass.
When I click on the link for the 3200 W inverter set up an account go through the whole process every time I click purchase kicks me back out tells me to log off something not correct not sure.
If your using a AD BLOCK, Cookie restriction or similar, turn it off for that site. They can not confirm you if your blocking cookies or tracking. The site that handles it is Hong Kong Alipay. Be sure you chose your country plug socket, voltage, and there is not a 240 volt split phase ( 220v posted is for Australia but they will send what you check if you think that means 220 volt USA) and correct is the 110 selection which is really 120v if your in USA.
Great video. Can you show us how you take that 3200W inverter apart? My is having a problem with the DC Volt meter, it is flickering on and off, the inverter works fine but the meter is bad. I removed the screws that hold the end panels but I still cannot separate the top and the bottom section, Thanks! BTW, I bought it for $284 (12V version, $317 regular price) during Aliexpress Christmas sale. It uses large fan so it is a lot quieter than the one using two small fans spinning at higher speed than the large fan.
Remove the top 3 screws on Fan side, top 4 on output side, barely loosen the rest of the screws, 1 turn out, on its ends to make some slack. Wiggle a bit and Lift straight up the upper clam shell. Careful not to unplug any of the wires going to the faceplate or boards. Check them all for full set before testing open, or reclosing it. The Trimmer on the meter is MICRO sized, use a plastic adjustment 1.25mm flat screw driver style to rotate if adjustment is needed. Sometimes just bumping those stops flicker. Another cause of flicker is the plug the meter maker sent is not perfect fit for the socket the board maker used, check pin tightness.
Hi John. My 12v/3000 watt swipower inverter fan keeps cycling on and off. Is that normal. For example i run a refrigerator which draws about 110 watts. After sometime the inverter fan will come on normally. Then it will just keep cycling 8 seconds on 15 seconds off. The refrigerator will shut down but the inverter fan just keep cycling till the refrigerator come back on.
Likely the contact temp grease is not making up good on the thermal switch. Thermal paste. If you pull out the top 4 screws ( 8 total ) on both ends of top half and barely loosen the lower rest you can pull off the top and check the sensor on the heat sinks, remove screw, add paste, retighten and make sure its down well. If its gapped at all it will do this, even the threads raising from being tapped can do that. If it's bad replace with same 50 Celsius.
i have a big 4kw 12v inverter that has 8 transformers. each transformers are even bigger than yours. the entire inverter is overspeced. its so big and heavy and they direct mounted the fets to the outer heatsink. ive ran the inverter to 3500 watts for like 20 minutes. it never got hot enough to turn its fan on which is crazy. it gets 93% efficiency. it also has insane surge capabilities, I think ive done 6kw of surge on it. i don't have enough stuff to even max it out. its also a inverter that they don't say much for surge. only draw back is the high idle current of like 28 watts but it comes back in the fact that whenever stuff surges the voltage output is so stable that lights don't dim at all.
@@edwardutter6975 its an expensive inverter but i bought it DOA from someone for $100 since the company gave them a free replacement and didnt want the old one
From what a tech told me (so take it as second hand) Aims was a few guys fired from Statpower decades ago for selling tech plans to China. They started Aims, and other brands. Not sure the factuality but the timeline and some historic events make it plausible. The Aims is just redone other products from mainland China that were not in our retail system then. Now they mostly sell other brands on their site for 30% more than you can buy it on Amazon. So who knows who they sold out to a few years ago.
Swipower sent me a 1500w inverter with the resistor that determines the frequency not only in the wrong spot (50hz) but also soldered on way worse to where maybe both leads of the resistor were only soldered to one spot on the board. I was able to correctly solder it in the right place and now it works correctly, however it was not only poorly soldered but also went through quality control completely malfunctioning, frequency all over the place and display showing 50hz while sticker says 60hz. Then the guy says he can only give me $5 as a partial refund. I wanted $50. He said that the remainder would have to come out of his salary....... haha.
I saw that too. It's a capacitor and yes, looks rough. Its all machine installed, all of them like that are, depending on the guy programming the machines tolerances you can get that. All these component boards are outsourced normally. I checked that one, there was about 8 more questionable, but its conducting, but poor looking, however, its only needing microamps of flow. If you open up a $500 TV on random will get similar finds. That 12X table magnifier with the light I use gets lots of those catching my eyes.
Did they explain how to fix it? Is this the ALFFAA 1500W or the SWI 1500 you got with that hertz issue? If its the Alffaa you have to know which board version, 318 or 322 but the SWI its almost always the SPWM module and simple to deal with. Lots of inverter brands got shot in the rear by a component makers in China with COVID related "missing employee resulting in labeling problems", happened world wide to lots of places. Welcome to new world order gone WONG!
CSL kinda reminds me of free space on SSDs. If you want the full 800GB free space, you're not gonna get it. Better to get a 1TB solid state drive instead. 😉
Some measure CSL with a 3% variation, some with a 10%. I was learned in coolage to use 5% so thats been what stucked in me head! LOL! Those SSD have a reserve that is locked, so called firmware. But it only can be fully accessed on Windows ME or Android systems.
if you buy a real quality inverter, and need 2000w, you buy 2000w. victron or master volt or even better inverter, are designed to stay a 100% power h24. the concept that you need the double of the power is true for cheap inverter
Just don't read the part where Victron tells dealers that they underrate their inverters by over 20% so buyers do not blow them up and claim warranty. Tony of HWP and I both attended the dealer seminars. So when you pay 350% more for their 2000 watt your getting a 2400 with a great warranty. Master Volt is a similar de-rated product, does similar on sale rating just like Fronius, Sunny, and Fangpusun. Still 350% more cost than a 3200 watt Swi Power and just as susceptible to a insect blowing it up as any other. Nasty little critters! I chose redundancy instead of over underrated and 3X+ the cost. But anyone who wants to pay the price should do so in either option. We used to be a world where we bragged on how much we saved, and now we are a world who brags on how much we spent LOL!
It's a horrible low ability inverter. Exploiting a brand scam. The great lie: they are made in the Netherlands. The sad truth: only if you can convince everyone Guangzhou China is a city in the Netherlands.
Solution: Stop the car, Dump out the Mogen David 20/20, hand the keys to a total stranger, turn off email notifications from porn sites, and set the phone on do not disturb. Now, unlikely that will help but it sure will keep you busy while it subsides.
*SWIPOWER 2023 Models* SWI 3000w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEgPyhT SWI 3200w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF5ednb *Join, Follow, Support* ko-fi.com/john4kiera OR www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL ALFFAA 1500w DC/AC inverter amzn.to/3sJmh9r ✨LiTime Mini 100 Amp Hour LiFePO4 shrsl.com/43gwk all SWI POWER INVERTERS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbHZlX *EBAY source for SWI-power* ebay.us/jL1FKT
Don't forget to Subscribe and Hit the BELL!
You most definitely know your stuff & have me sold in the SWI Power 3200. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise. No bud light or dress for this Yankee TY ❤
John and Kera. Thank you so much for letting me know how great the SWE 3200 is. It uses only one amp in idle mode and it is the only inverter that I have found that does this. I did a review on Amazon and hope that people see it. WOW
This is great information for some one who doesn't understand all the technical stuff, thanks for teaching us.
JOHN, YOU ARE THE MAN TO GO TO FOR ANSWERS . THANK YOU TO YOU & MISS KIRA!!
Длинный инвертор 3000w сделан аккуратнее Все детали прикручены к радиаторам винтами а 3200 w прижаты просто общими пластинами
John, I really appreciate the in depth videos; you've been a massive help as I try to find the most reliable yet cost-effective inverter for the portable solar powered generators I'm building. Question: do you have any experience with cnswipower's lower wattage inverters (like 2000W and 2500W)? For most of my projects, my clients don't need any more simultaneous power than a standard 15A circuit can offer, so I was looking into these lower wattage models due to their incredible prices and smaller form factor. At maximum, these systems are typically meant to be used to run a fridge, chest freezer, sump pump, and a charger or two. What do you think about using one of their lower wattage models?
Go with the 2500, the 2000 has only 2 cap mains, the 2500 has 3 and is only a few dollars more. That means starting power for inductive loads. Very important when your not going to watch it all day. On that link set below the video one that says EBAY source, look down a ways, they have the 2500 as I recall ships in a few days.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 awesome, that's what I was leaning towards as well. I want just enough redundancy to cover potential freak occurrences and the 2500W seems to be the sweet spot. Thanks a bunch, man! Keep this stuff up!
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, I bought a SWI 3200 watt pure sine inverter based on your knowledge and skills, love it
Love it and Great job
Good vid and info thanks. Definitely influenced my decision. Makes sense too, I have a 400 from 12.8 I loaded up shooting for 400 watts with a plenty of 2 car batteries in parallel fully charged pushing it. Falls on its face after 270 watts, will hold a 260 watts steady barley. To sum it up, you want to run a 2000 watt load, get a 4000 watt inverter, that's just the way it is.
Thanks man. The tests ive done on this little 400 line right up with what you was saying. I'm not rich, i don't plan on buying but one more of these puppies.I figure 24 to 120 using 2 or 4 car batteries, that way they can be charged with jumper cables and a car charging in parallel@@JOHNDANIEL1
If you're doing that modification of the mod square, I've seen 100k, 10k, 1k, resistors added in that may help do the same thing for cheaper. Please let me know!
Thanks!
Enjoyed your video to get my week started today.
Thank you this is what i was looking for electrician review of inverter you review helped me choose the best inverter for my situation
how do you do the test to get the CSL value? that would be a good video. I didn't really understand the .5V 1V 2V thing you mentioned for the 1s and 5s results.
It is a stable rate of amps before your "sized for test" draw on battery supply starts to cascade down in volts without increasing load. They tend to increase predictably and peak then go up fast like bat Shyt crazy when your inverter is crashing on carrying ability in efficiency.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 that still didn't make a lot of sense. maybe a video on what you see and are looking for would help and your testing procedures.
OK, I will see about setting up a active testing for a video, It will be a long one. But maybe you can visualize horsepower curve, when amps start going higher than the output watts they should result in. All the factories test these for premium efficiency, but always fudge it. There is a point your creating more resistive heat in the unit than flowing out power can result in. That's the point of component effectiveness you exceed.
I've binge watched your vids on inverters, thanks for the detailed overview on innards. Would you recommend the SWIPower over the Erayak for limited budgets? You mentioned that Erayak makers have also been around for a long time so I wondered which would be the better buy. Looking at 2000/2500w. - Edit: Just re-watched your latest vid on Erayak and you mentioned it is a division of SWIPower so guess either would be great.
Go with the most updated version now. 2500 watt is 100% suggested, they are $38 cheaper right now. amzn.to/3Z4iJzi
This was a fun test he had me finding everything under the sun to plug into these things!
Yep, in house skilled work has its benefits!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 😇🥰
Great videos, I'm currently shopping for inverters and would like to know conversion efficiency as well, maybe at 50% of csl. I'm going to check out your in depth reviews.
For the Xijia, which is SWI-Power. Using the 2500, 3000 and 3200 for examples:
At a perfect heat to load balance they run over 87%. Over that is when they drop and how we measured CSL for them. At over 10% and under 40% they are over 90% efficient though. At idle they are averaging 27% lower in active current support than most all published data on similar capable models within price ranges of others that are up to $300 more in cost.
Is it better or cheaper to go with the smaller high density batteries or the larger older format with all the empty air space in the box?
Dead honesty? bang for the buck, TIME USB. shrsl.com/43h37 Their 220 AH 150 bms and its metal cased. Cheapest cost, pure cells, and best BMS in a budget battery. 4 of them is a house system for a average 2 person home, 4 = 600 amps capable in 12 volt, and real test show them exceeding 228ah, usable for anyone with normal needs. If I knew that they were actually Shenzhen Newton New Energy Technology Co., Ltd back 3 years ago, I would be running theirs exclusively in my home if I could have afforded them then, the Power Queens on mobile applications due to their weather stable cells, and Redodo still on all average but constant draw stuff like my well house.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks, John. I was banned4life, but was reborn.
Thanks! Another great video! Gues i will be buying some more inverters
You have to admit, these 3200 are the home solution while the 3000 is the mobile and remote solution. I have been running SWI Power for over 10 years, sold and traded them, bought more. Never let me down.
Thanks for this, John. You're the best!
I had to laugh... "Hello, Mc Fly"! I say that to my dog a few times every day.
Speaks of Age, and the fact our memory is not ruined by Phone in Face disorder.
Mr Daniel I cant find the video that you put out a while back on a window ac unit that was energy saving,and consumed not much to run it. Could you provide a brand name and model number ? Great thanks. Stay cool here in our Texas heat.
Which inverter you recommend for semi truck? I have four X2 dual purpose/deep cycle SLI31AGMDPM, 1370
MARINE CRANKING AMPL, 1150 COLD CRANKING AMPS, I was thinking to buy new model Duracell 3000 Watt High Power Inverter?
Save $110 on those modified sinewave and get a pure sine SWI power. SWI-12 3200w s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF5ednb and they should have them to you in a week.
Hello Mr. Daniel, I have a saw table that requires 220volt, 15 amps to operate. I purchased the sungold inverter/charger 4000 watt, 120/240 volt @24 volts. It does not run the saw table. Can you clarify the problem and recommend the right inverter? Thanks for your videos!
Dad is in hospital I will answer best I can. he would say try more battery or a starter wired into the cutting saw. he installs them and they work great. look up tabel saw starter box they are cheap. Kiera
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hello Kiera, thank you for the information. Do you have a brand name/model number of the table saw starter box that your father uses? I hope your father is OK and home soon. Thanks, Brad.
John can you run 2 inverters off same battery and feed same ac loads.... So like run a 5k inverter day time but at night run that small 1500w that draws only 3w idle?
We do that already, top inverters are day running, bottom inverter a old Powerbright runs night duty. You just can't get a old powerbright anymore, New ones are made by OGE. And since Xijia made them pre-2016, it lead me to SwiPower Xijia way back when.
Thank you
Hello John,
Thanks for this video. Very instructive.
I'm in the planning phase of a van build.
If you don't mind, I have a few questons.
I plan to use 200Ah Power Queen LiFePO4 with the space to eventually add another 200Ah.
Should I go for 1x200Ah or 2x100Ah. With the upgrade, I would have 2x200Ah or 4x100Ah.
I'm also looking for an Inverter/Charger (to charge from shore power).
SWIPOWER doesn't seem to have one for the 120V grid.
Can you recommend an inverter/charger?
Or is it better to have separate units, i.e. a better inverter and a better shore power charger?
Finally, maybe a dumb question, if I have a 200Ah battery bank, can I still install a 3000W inverter with some protections/limitations?
Thanks
If I am in your shoes? Go first with 2 of the 100ah Mini from them, shrsl.com/46fls get them direct and get the most recent made. Very heat and abuse tolerant. If you do the create a account, you can get another 3% off on them on that site. Later add 2-3 more and as a 4 or 5 pack you will have insane power for a 3000 watt inverter without risk of over heating or over loading.
When you build that van, the inverter with charger is best using a Sun Gold, SG 3000 12 volt model amzn.to/4501S19 ( Gen Start, Charger, Pure sine, Auto utility switching and a MUST, a Leaptrend DC to DC 60 amp charger too amzn.to/4501UGj Its built like a Brick Shythouse! And the best part of using the newest Mini 100 from Power queen is you can actually grow it to 6 total with a ability to run everything AND the newest DC powered roof air I will be showing soon that is $500 cheaper then the popular promoted to the hilt ones you see on You Toooby! Stay Tuned, got it coming in short order!
When you add solar, Use the Newpowa 50w panels ( see how narrow amzn.to/3OsxchJ ) in groups x2 for 44 volts to a HQST 60A charger amzn.to/3ql6gbQ to your 12 volt mains, contact any of them direct, ask for a 10% off on bulk buy, and ask for a huge discount and you can get on average 250 more watts on your average van roof with same space and weight.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks for this quick and generous response.
I also was thinking of 2x 100Ah Mini (smaller weight, smaller footprint) for my build. Thanks to confirm.
For the inverter/charger, you suggest a 3000W.
Back to my dumb question, if I have a 200Ah battery bank, can I still install a 3000W inverter/charger?
If yes, what should I do to protect the equipment ... and myself?
@@francoisboucher9648Install a quality 200 amp DC circuit breaker. amzn.to/45iTYPZ The inverter will run on as little as a 7 amp Lead Acid battery, however it will only produce that in value, about 75 watts till it drains it. So when your running it on a pair of 200ah mini it will be still able to peak start items since the Mini has 130% capable short time coverage, but not run them constant over 2000 watts (100 amp constant x2) without tripping the breaker. Adding a 3rd battery ASAP will solve this and you can change the DC circuit breaker to 300 amp. If you have just basic credit you can when on the power queen site get a payment plan making it a lot easier, no real interest is charged.
John, thanks for the in-depth video and testing.
I'm in the market for an inverter for an emergency power back-up for fridge/ freezer, gas furnace and small sump pump. I tested the surge current on each of these and the worst is still under 12 amps (the pump). It will hardly ever get used (and when used, only until power restored) so a Swipower seems like maybe a good price to quality fit. There is a good price available on the 3000w so I'm tempted to go with that.
But I notice you did not test the newer SwiPower 3000w model (with the 2 Nema-15 outlets and the new lcd display on the face of the unit, and not at the end). Is this newer model 3000 not test as well / to be avoided? Same Mosfets on both models?
The new one has been installed and has been working for months full time to run 3 freezers and a 7.5 cubic foot refrigerator in that trailer I have with the solar roof on it. I thought I did do a power test on it somewhere. It is as good and better than the older models.
How loud is that 3200 watt xijia Inverter under load? I am thinking of buying one for my trailer to replace my modified sine wave inverter I got from tractor supply a few years ago which is pretty loud, It is louder than my window ac in my trailer I use to run off the inverter.
Very quite compared to most I have installed. The big German made Pabst fan is about 55 decibels at best from 5 foot.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks. I will go ahead and get one.
Yes, they are great little units, a bit heavy but easy to install and use. Be sure to replace the cables that come with any inverter, not just these. Use minimum of 1/0, preferable to use 2/0 if run to battery is over 5 feet. And they need a real 400 amps battery available for full power. Put a 350 amp ANL fuse on it, and keep all contacts well tightened.
Them Alffaa inverters are tough as nails. Might try a Swipower next. Thanks!
Bingo! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve try to tell people this! For CSL/ 70% of rated so-called of inverters!
So many times I tell people to buy 40% over need. And they pinch a penny into a wasted purchase. Then raise hell on how they were lied to and cheated.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 right! It’s crazy they talk to other who don’t understand electronics, or they believe the hype!
hi John , what charge controller would you recommend with the 3200w for a 12v supply ? Love you site , cheers
Charge controller for solar? Always use the SNRE made charge controllers. NEVER use any with fans, fans fail! The SNRE are the least likely to fail and are affordable. Not knowing what your solar or battery size is don't help much, but I run a 40 amp for every 500 watts of solar on my system. 6 are running side by side with NO needs for extra junk added to control them. The HQST 40 is made by SNRE, and lowest cost you can get for one. amzn.to/4b1KQBR
great video took a while to find a channel that actually explains what's inside. got a question not related to inverters but on my rv dc fuse panel board there is 2 30amp fuses on the board for reverse polarity protection. I upgraded my converter to a lithium charge profile and 55 amp max output and im getting 52 amps to the batteries now since I swapped out the converter . I check the fuses on the dc fuse panel and they are getting pretty warm. Wondering if the reverse protection fuses are in parallel ? if not i don't really wanna cook my dc board out camping lol
Not sure your RV, but typically Should be one fuse for the Tow Vehicle and one for the ground circuit on the converter. If you changed from a 45 amp to a 55 amp your surpassing your trailers minimal wiring, the heating on the fuses says your creating resistance somewhere. Pull power from that fuse panel, send it all to the batteries, from the battery install a Buck module for 25 to 30 amps, a DC to DC converter with current limiting then from it using at least 8 awg wire if short run, 6 awg wire if long ( both neg and pos ) to the original fuse box. Since you are not using lead acid, which has a always willingness to absorb some juice, and a LiFePO4 has a BMS that disconnects when full and lets the converter hit the fuse box with full power, you may be over amped.
Hope that made sense. If you want a easy buck converter, search for "14.6 to 12.8 volt DC to DC 30 amp regulated module"
@@JOHNDANIEL1 i got a WFCO WF-8950L2-MBA Replacement RV Power Converter Lithium-Ion Main Board i upgraded the battery cables to 4awg welding cable so the cables should be good. the original was a 55amp lead acid 3 stage charger limited to 15amps. just kinda scared to burn out the reverse protection panel.
AH, your using that WFCO, OK. Then do as I explained. It is feeding full power due to it being for Lithium. It does this due to the BMS will control input to the battery, so these bounce back to full bore when the battery is full, the full bore goes into the RV harness. Run its output to batteries, from batteries use the buck boost module to supply the fuse box on the RV, that way your current limited.
The reverse protection is only needed to prevent goofs who mis install batteries. or Mis connect solar or generators. Check what WFCO has on their manual to see if you even need it with your new install that has short circuit BMS internally on its batteries. wfcoelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Updated-8950L2-MBA-Li-Ion-Manual-RP.pdf
@Јоhn Daniel says I need them in the manual. Think they must be in parallel with the positive battery terminal as 2 30amp fuses work together. Otherwise I would of blown them much sooner with 52 amps going to the battery. Still kinda worried as its pretty close to the limit of the panel.
I just recently found your channel. Man you put out some good info and I appreciate your humor. Everyone I see on UA-cam is all about the eg4 products. I was curious what you think about them and the all in one 48 v inverters. The eg4 lifepo4 batteries are supposedly the best bang for the buck
EG4 batteries are the same identical product as many re-brandings. Any All-in-one inverter is a risk to own since your one micro function fail away from a complete all systems loss. I seen goofy firmware get corrupted and take out a $19,000 system. So if your wealthy, that's fine. but if your not, that's life destroying.
Good info.
Way back when we had to install back up controllers in the mega wind turbines I was part of installing in Utah, Colorado, North Texas, Kansas, and Idaho we had to do CSL test on everything. Then you had a stable power supply generator that could do 380 volts DC at 230 amps. Today I am using 400 amps of LiFePO4 with a charger attached watching when the charger gets hit needing full draw to moderate load. Same outcome, pain in the ass.
spilt phase inverter?
SUNGOLDPOWER 4000W 12V Inverter Charger, Peak 12000W, 240Vac, 120V/240Vac Output Split Phase, Low Frequency, Pure Sine Wave Inverter, LCD Remote Controller, for Off Grid System(Upgraded Version) amzn.to/42lF75G
NICE JOB JOHN !!!!!!!!
No point in owning a inverter if it's standby power use exceeds your ability to feed it.
When I click on the link for the 3200 W inverter set up an account go through the whole process every time I click purchase kicks me back out tells me to log off something not correct not sure.
If your using a AD BLOCK, Cookie restriction or similar, turn it off for that site. They can not confirm you if your blocking cookies or tracking. The site that handles it is Hong Kong Alipay. Be sure you chose your country plug socket, voltage, and there is not a 240 volt split phase ( 220v posted is for Australia but they will send what you check if you think that means 220 volt USA) and correct is the 110 selection which is really 120v if your in USA.
Cool 👍Thank’s
Great video. Can you show us how you take that 3200W inverter apart? My is having a problem with the DC Volt meter, it is flickering on and off, the inverter works fine but the meter is bad. I removed the screws that hold the end panels but I still cannot separate the top and the bottom section, Thanks!
BTW, I bought it for $284 (12V version, $317 regular price) during Aliexpress Christmas sale. It uses large fan so it is a lot quieter than the one using two small fans spinning at higher speed than the large fan.
Remove the top 3 screws on Fan side, top 4 on output side, barely loosen the rest of the screws, 1 turn out, on its ends to make some slack. Wiggle a bit and Lift straight up the upper clam shell. Careful not to unplug any of the wires going to the faceplate or boards. Check them all for full set before testing open, or reclosing it. The Trimmer on the meter is MICRO sized, use a plastic adjustment 1.25mm flat screw driver style to rotate if adjustment is needed. Sometimes just bumping those stops flicker. Another cause of flicker is the plug the meter maker sent is not perfect fit for the socket the board maker used, check pin tightness.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you! So you have seen the DC Volt meter flickering issue before then, great info!.
@@budmartin3344 It's a common style used by many builders.
Good stuff 👍
Hi John. My 12v/3000 watt swipower inverter fan keeps cycling on and off. Is that normal. For example i run a refrigerator which draws about 110 watts. After sometime the inverter fan will come on normally. Then it will just keep cycling 8 seconds on 15 seconds off. The refrigerator will shut down but the inverter fan just keep cycling till the refrigerator come back on.
Likely the contact temp grease is not making up good on the thermal switch. Thermal paste. If you pull out the top 4 screws ( 8 total ) on both ends of top half and barely loosen the lower rest you can pull off the top and check the sensor on the heat sinks, remove screw, add paste, retighten and make sure its down well. If its gapped at all it will do this, even the threads raising from being tapped can do that. If it's bad replace with same 50 Celsius.
Thanks. Will work on it.
Spot opened up to insure the hand..
Wish they would insure the Neck, Shoulder and lower back!
i have a big 4kw 12v inverter that has 8 transformers. each transformers are even bigger than yours. the entire inverter is overspeced. its so big and heavy and they direct mounted the fets to the outer heatsink. ive ran the inverter to 3500 watts for like 20 minutes. it never got hot enough to turn its fan on which is crazy. it gets 93% efficiency. it also has insane surge capabilities, I think ive done 6kw of surge on it. i don't have enough stuff to even max it out. its also a inverter that they don't say much for surge. only draw back is the high idle current of like 28 watts but it comes back in the fact that whenever stuff surges the voltage output is so stable that lights don't dim at all.
what brand and model is your 4kw ?
@@edwardutter6975 giandel 4kw with 3year warranty. Its their black inverter that they only havs 2 models
@@edwardutter6975 its an expensive inverter but i bought it DOA from someone for $100 since the company gave them a free replacement and didnt want the old one
Thanks for the good work...
I bought the Aims Power inverter charger because it weighed 46 pounds. Turned out okay. 😅
From what a tech told me (so take it as second hand) Aims was a few guys fired from Statpower decades ago for selling tech plans to China. They started Aims, and other brands. Not sure the factuality but the timeline and some historic events make it plausible. The Aims is just redone other products from mainland China that were not in our retail system then. Now they mostly sell other brands on their site for 30% more than you can buy it on Amazon. So who knows who they sold out to a few years ago.
Nice, just wish they made a split phase model.
They do make them in other formats, see the link below that leads to their entire line up. Then look to the left for the hybrid and other.
On the same board you pointed out, c6 looked to be a broken solder. Just saying.
Swipower sent me a 1500w inverter with the resistor that determines the frequency not only in the wrong spot (50hz) but also soldered on way worse to where maybe both leads of the resistor were only soldered to one spot on the board. I was able to correctly solder it in the right place and now it works correctly, however it was not only poorly soldered but also went through quality control completely malfunctioning, frequency all over the place and display showing 50hz while sticker says 60hz.
Then the guy says he can only give me $5 as a partial refund. I wanted $50. He said that the remainder would have to come out of his salary....... haha.
@@lancealderman2755 I'm not saying they're poorly designed or the hardware is cheap, but the technicians could use a little soldering self respect.
@@brandonboulton2776 child labor laws. That's all I'm saying.
I saw that too. It's a capacitor and yes, looks rough. Its all machine installed, all of them like that are, depending on the guy programming the machines tolerances you can get that. All these component boards are outsourced normally. I checked that one, there was about 8 more questionable, but its conducting, but poor looking, however, its only needing microamps of flow. If you open up a $500 TV on random will get similar finds. That 12X table magnifier with the light I use gets lots of those catching my eyes.
Did they explain how to fix it? Is this the ALFFAA 1500W or the SWI 1500 you got with that hertz issue? If its the Alffaa you have to know which board version, 318 or 322 but the SWI its almost always the SPWM module and simple to deal with. Lots of inverter brands got shot in the rear by a component makers in China with COVID related "missing employee resulting in labeling problems", happened world wide to lots of places. Welcome to new world order gone WONG!
I have a question ..... fairly sure what the answer is, but here goes anyway!
Is it worth building your own inverter?
From a box of 3,300 parts, not likely. but from Low Frequency kits sold on Aliexpress, sure.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 As I expected!
Thanks.
CSL kinda reminds me of free space on SSDs. If you want the full 800GB free space, you're not gonna get it. Better to get a 1TB solid state drive instead. 😉
Some measure CSL with a 3% variation, some with a 10%. I was learned in coolage to use 5% so thats been what stucked in me head! LOL! Those SSD have a reserve that is locked, so called firmware. But it only can be fully accessed on Windows ME or Android systems.
if you buy a real quality inverter, and need 2000w, you buy 2000w. victron or master volt or even better inverter, are designed to stay a 100% power h24. the concept that you need the double of the power is true for cheap inverter
Just don't read the part where Victron tells dealers that they underrate their inverters by over 20% so buyers do not blow them up and claim warranty. Tony of HWP and I both attended the dealer seminars. So when you pay 350% more for their 2000 watt your getting a 2400 with a great warranty. Master Volt is a similar de-rated product, does similar on sale rating just like Fronius, Sunny, and Fangpusun. Still 350% more cost than a 3200 watt Swi Power and just as susceptible to a insect blowing it up as any other. Nasty little critters!
I chose redundancy instead of over underrated and 3X+ the cost. But anyone who wants to pay the price should do so in either option. We used to be a world where we bragged on how much we saved, and now we are a world who brags on how much we spent LOL!
put output on an ocilloscope
See other videos, it's on one.
ua-cam.com/video/uK6jlFK-6Uc/v-deo.html
Has anyone ever used a Victron 12/500 inverter ?
It's a horrible low ability inverter. Exploiting a brand scam. The great lie: they are made in the Netherlands. The sad truth: only if you can convince everyone Guangzhou China is a city in the Netherlands.
Thanks John I'll order the 3000 in the video
I'm gonna motion sickness puke...
Solution: Stop the car, Dump out the Mogen David 20/20, hand the keys to a total stranger, turn off email notifications from porn sites, and set the phone on do not disturb.
Now, unlikely that will help but it sure will keep you busy while it subsides.
Theres no sound
Reload, still buffering