Those cat litter buckets are such extravagant waste of plastic, but like you, I found them to be very useful in the shop. I wish manufacturers considered upcyclicality when designing their packaging. There used to be jam where its jar became a kids drinking glass.
100% agree. I never buy the bucket not. The overly coated carboard boxes are better even if they are nearly indestructible and hard to recycle. Honestly... it's simple and cheap (sometimes even cheaper) to be more earth friendly they just don't try.
Great work on a nice piece of kit. I like the effort the have gone to balancing the drive pulley. It is a lucky bloke whose wife lets him have not one but two milling machines!!! Well done Mark.
on Sunday, 5/7 I got to move a Wells Mill.....oh what fun, not sure what model, but in the 2,500 lb range...old wooden floor, full of termites, had to pallet jack it about 100 feet on to a flat bed straight truck with a lift gate rated at 3,000 lbs, when we went to lift up, by the way, the motorized pallet jack weighed 500lbs, the gate sagged down about 12 inches, and I am thinking, that sucker is going to fall off....well it made it on the truck, along with he Lagun Mill, a 3,000 lb 14x50 lathe, a Grob 20" ,1,200 lb band saw, a bad mama jam drill press, Japanese, that was about 1,000 lbs, two air compressors , one with a 25 hp motor and 7x 3 foot tank.....man, I was tired....
Hi Mark, the audio is much nicer to listen to now at the start without the agc 'hiss' in the quiet spots. Great to see these old machines being given a new lease on life - they were built so well it would be a shame to see them on the scrap heap.
OH MY LORD! I'm just as taken by the vacuum cleaner. I used to have one of those in the same crinkle paint color... it had belonged to my grandparents and took paper bags that fit inside a cloth bag with a handle... I think they were called "Universal" or something? Mine had a decal of the earth on one side and I think my grandmother had bought it from a door-to-door salesman! LOVED that memory AND the restoration of the Wells Index!
My Index 40H had several grease zert looking fittings. I found out the hard way that they are not for grease, but for oil, (way oil). I had to nearly totally dismantle my mill to clean the oil passages where a goof ball, (me) filled them all with bearing grease. My electric motor was a 110 also. The drum switch was to change the speed on the motor, not forward and reverse. It never worked right, and I just change which groove the belt is in on the drive pulley. Looks great! keep up the good work.
Those holes on my mill has slotted set screws in them. I'll bet somebody put zerks in yours. Interesting in the 2 speeds... that would be nice but I want reverse too. Thanks
It won't be long before you are making chips. You are to be congratulated for doing a very good job. I'm looking forward to projects that will see the old mill in action. KOKO!
I weld all the broken cast-iron at work. I use both arc weld and TIG welding to make repairs. A welding contractor we used several years ago showed me they process of cast-iron repairs. Starting by grinding away as much of the damage area as possible, preheat the parts them weld using nickel rods and a finish pass using stainless steel filler rods. I'm not sure what the stainless steel top layer does, but it works, and I have never had any issues. Be sure to let the repaired part cool slowly. If it's a big part, I will cover with a welding blanket to cool. I have rebuilt two lathes and on mill. I enjoy the mill rebuild. I hope to see you using it soon
I knocked the flux off the nickel rod to weld with TIG.... it didn't do too well. Maybe me or maybe the flux? I did preheat. A friend of mine said the same about the stainless rod.
@Winky's Workshop I keep nickel TIG rods on hand these days, but I have knocked Flux off stick rods, too. What the job at hand, you just always have to be ready to make what you have to work. Thanks for your video content.
Nice job. This will make a mill that you won't be afraid to use because it's perfect and it will work well. Looking forward to seeing it make chips. Thanks for bringing us along
pro paint tip...if you are going for a super smooth finish......before final sanding, give a light dusting [you are not trying to cover the primer] of flat or mat black quick dry spray paint, any color will work though that is darker than the primer...then sand, any low spots will show up right away as long as you are not digging into the surface with the sanding pad..... then you can come back with some spot putty.......
Good idea. I'm certainly not a pro on painting or body work. In hindsight I probably should have sandblasted the main body of the mill. The filler they used was not in the best shape. I just didn't want to deal with trying to smooth out the possible rough castings.
in cool weather like you are in, for a faster setup time on the Rustoleum Industrial enamel [which takes forever to dry] use lacquer thinner, xylene, or toluene...lacquer is a combination of xylene, toluene, mek and I think acetone, which makes it an all purpose thinner/cleaner, and is usually cheaper than the individual solvents listed] .when it gets real hot , in the 90's....you can go with VMP naphtha to slow down the cure if needed, or mineral spirits [which is labeled as 'paint thinner']... I like to add a bit of Cobalt Dryer .to that particular brand of paint to help it set up......[read directions on how much], and also try to use a paint filter when pouring into the paint cup to keep snurds out of the paint.......I have sprayed a lot of it...
Paul, that is interesting! I like the Rustolium industrial enamel because it uses such common thinners and it is pretty tough. I used a Sherwin Williams product on a machine and there was no real thinning information so I brushed it on as the can suggests. It took a long time to get hard, like months but it seems excellent with regard to chipping and chemicals. I wish I could spray the same.
a friend gave me one of those, in working condition a few years ago. I already have a Bridgeport, so I passed it along to my nephew, who uses it to this day. I could have snagged it, cleaned it up, and sold it for a profit, but I try to pay it forward with some of the really good deals on machinery I run across.
What a great job. It really amazing what a little work and a good paint job will do. That color looks a lot like the one Don Madere used on his Monarch.
@@ellieprice363 Smoke Gray. For most the mill I used it from a quart can thinned 15% with acetone but the spray paint matches very well too although, I think gray is very forgiving. The spray can seems to have slightly less gloss however.
Great outcome Mark, with the split cast iron gear I would have done the following. Pop it in your lathe and skim the boss round again and made a steel ring to fit, either shrink fit or Locktite I on. You may have introduced stress by welding. Regards from Australia.
In my video 40H working in the first minute i zoom in on the table ands you can clearly see what that rod hole does. You can also see the differences in the motors, mine takes a 56 series motor. Also mine has many of those oil zerk fittings, the ones people use grease in. FWIW you can put oil in most grease guns. If your stumped on a motor choice i bet the older 56 frame motor bracket will fit right on and you can buy those anywhere. I will do another chip ejection video soon.
That’s darned dapper machine. Looks damned good. The feature on the front of the saddle I don’t think it for a power feed travel stop switch. If it’s like some of the older Kerney & Trecker machines that feature should hold a rod that you can slide a dial indicator along. The L shaped bracket further left on the table looks like the stop you would butt the dial indicator against.
@@WinkysWorkshop Wells index used that boss to hold part of a vernier scale, while the long scale was mounted to the table. Yours did not come with this option because it would have two tapped holes side by side. What the other commenter said makes sense about the horizontal hole going through the boss.
Hi Mark, me again. I've been thinking - always dangerous! That motor may have had a conversion from three to single phase. Those drum reversers were also notorious over here. Three phase motors are easy to reverse of course but the switches tended to fail. If a conversion then the capacitor is also an addition. I know your electricity supply arrangements - not just the voltage and frequency - are very different to ours so don't put too much trust in my thought. Wise of you to take it to a specialist. Hopefully they can sort it out for you, nice to keep the original if viable.
Yeah... sadly the motor is not good. I took it to a very good motor shop and they guy said... "It has some bad windings. I can fix it but it would cost twice as much as a new motor" I now have a cheap motor I'm installing. 1 HP instead of the original 1/2 HP.
Hi Mark, Awesome it's really looking nice ! On your motor bearing. That type with a press on retaining collar are the worst. If you set it up in the press then quickly heat the collar with your oxy/act touch, not too much then press...may need to repeat a few times. That should get it off. Or just have the motor shop do it 😉. Hope you can keep that motor, it has the right look 👍 ATB....
thanks... however I took the motor to a good motor shop and he said it was shot. Broken winding. He said it would be cheaper to buy a new one... plus everyone with this mill said the 1/2 HP on this mill isn't enough anyway. I bought a new 1 HP.. Oops... it was donated :o) Good for now but maybe 3ph in the future.
I got a pretty decent set of taper pin reamers in a machinist box buy many years ago. I liked the roll pin idea better. :-( You're doing a great job, and everybody will want this machine. Can't wait to see the running machine and first cuts. Classic machine with great character. Will this mean you get rid of the RongFu mill? Time will tell...... You can use a cut off to slit the motor bearing surfaces then a cold chisel to split them and get them off if your press is incapable of pushing the shaft through. Got to replace that bearing, it will howl like mad.
Yeah... the motor is toast. I took it to a good motor shop... some of the winding are bad. The original motor would be cool but everyone I've talked to says the original 1/2 HP is not enough anyway... I bought a new 1 HP.
sell em both. get the bridgeport. you know your going to. I love the old machines. been buying remakining and selling for years. wish I had your resources. Thanks for the video.
Such a cool old machine. You're doing an excellent job, as usual. That thing is gonna make you wonder how you ever managed to tolerate that round column monstrosity for so long... 🤣EDIT: that thing is in EXCELLENT condition despite its age. It's in far better condition than my BP, despite the BP being probably 50 years newer if I had to guess. Congrats on a good score btw!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yep it's just very fine blue pigment with a light oil solvent "Prussian Blue" for checking fits and scraping work. A little goes a very long way.
4:16, watching you paint, and having to hold your paint gun at an angle , if you turn the air horns vertical, it changes the spray pattern so you can run up and down instead of having to tilt to get a good coverage.....
Hopefully the motor shop can get those bearings replaced, as well as the wiring setup. It will be great if you can use that motor, or failing that a period correct one. Modern squarish ones are not my favourite. Give me an old GE any day, no WEG or Baldor box shape. Best wishes from the far North.
@@carlthor91 For now it's going to be a cheaper and available Chinese motor. I know where I can get a 3ph motor very cheap but its 40 miles from here. I have a VFD so I may go that route eventually. I have no idea what brand but it's industrial surplus so it's likely a good one. Being able to change speeds (within limits) without moving belts is appealing.
@@WinkysWorkshop I HIGHLY recommend a 3PH motor and VFD. Don't mount the VFD on the mill, as the vibration with interrupted cuts can shake the parts off the circuit cards. I've removed all the single phase motors on all my tools in the shop, and replaced them with 3PH. I leave the belt settings at the middle reduction settings, and all the motors were 4 pole so they would naturally run at the 1725RPM, so I set the VFD to have 120Hz max frequency setting, as the motor rotors in these can operate fine at the 3600 2pole counterpart motors. Depending on your VFD, you can actually have the front panel readout display spindle RPM, if it supports this feature of programming in the conversion of Hz to the reduction ratio. As usual, nice filming and editing.
you need to read up on Rusty Metal Primer.... .many of the brands do not fully cure if there is no rust... as they have fish oil and it needs the rust to react and cure..... just a heads up.........
It's my understanding that the spray cans of Rustolium do not have the fish oil. In fact they stopped using it on all the rustoluim products. This stuff cures completely although where I was spraying did have a rusty surface.
The mill looks so nice! How in the world do you get those metal badges look so fantastic! Regarding the leveling casters, I have likely the same ones in a 1200lb surface plate and stand. The casters were made in Korea and I can’t speak highly enough about their stability, function and quality. “I like it” 😊
The badges were brasso and a rag. It took part of the paint off but still looks good. I also wiped them with acetone and then coated them with rustolium clear.
The B&S taper holds the mills better but it also gets stuck in the spindle. The original draw bar was self ejecting and works great. The problem is, they eventually wear out and get removed. You may have noticed a section of threads at the top of the splice. Hopefully they are not damaged. Mine were messed up but I used a thread file with the mill running and cleaned them up. Wells index will sell you the new draw bar but if I remember right it will cost you about $350. I'm cheap so I made my own. In my opinion the B&S collet is much better than the R8 but only if you have the self ejecting draw bar. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/hM7LlQfzLdQ/v-deo.htmlsi=xU50Eppd-tybtvhA
Those cat litter buckets are such extravagant waste of plastic, but like you, I found them to be very useful in the shop. I wish manufacturers considered upcyclicality when designing their packaging. There used to be jam where its jar became a kids drinking glass.
100% agree. I never buy the bucket not. The overly coated carboard boxes are better even if they are nearly indestructible and hard to recycle. Honestly... it's simple and cheap (sometimes even cheaper) to be more earth friendly they just don't try.
Great work on a nice piece of kit. I like the effort the have gone to balancing the drive pulley. It is a lucky bloke whose wife lets him have not one but two milling machines!!! Well done Mark.
I won't keep the RF 30 but... I am a LUCKY bloke. I have a good wife! Haha
on Sunday, 5/7 I got to move a Wells Mill.....oh what fun, not sure what model, but in the 2,500 lb range...old wooden floor, full of termites, had to pallet jack it about 100 feet on to a flat bed straight truck with a lift gate rated at 3,000 lbs, when we went to lift up, by the way, the motorized pallet jack weighed 500lbs, the gate sagged down about 12 inches, and I am thinking, that sucker is going to fall off....well it made it on the truck, along with he Lagun Mill, a 3,000 lb 14x50 lathe, a Grob 20" ,1,200 lb band saw, a bad mama jam drill press, Japanese, that was about 1,000 lbs, two air compressors , one with a 25 hp motor and 7x 3 foot tank.....man, I was tired....
Wow... lots of work. (and weight)
Wow, sounds like you bought all your heavy machinery at the same time!
Hi Mark, the audio is much nicer to listen to now at the start without the agc 'hiss' in the quiet spots. Great to see these old machines being given a new lease on life - they were built so well it would be a shame to see them on the scrap heap.
Totally agree... this machine is VERY well made. Thanks on the audio
You have set the bar so high on this restoration. I had to replace the bearings in the Quill, which gave me some grief, nice job.
Mine seem to be smooth but I will eventually get into then. Maybe you can give me some pointers. Wells Index was no help.
@@WinkysWorkshop watch his series, its well worth the time
@@cyclebuster I'll do that, Thanks
OH MY LORD! I'm just as taken by the vacuum cleaner. I used to have one of those in the same crinkle paint color... it had belonged to my grandparents and took paper bags that fit inside a cloth bag with a handle... I think they were called "Universal" or something? Mine had a decal of the earth on one side and I think my grandmother had bought it from a door-to-door salesman! LOVED that memory AND the restoration of the Wells Index!
The vacuum is a Compact. Its a good one! Thanks for watching.
Aah, the joy of bringing an old piece of equipment back to life
So true. It makes using the machine enjoyable for sure.
My Index 40H had several grease zert looking fittings. I found out the hard way that they are not for grease, but for oil, (way oil). I had to nearly totally dismantle my mill to clean the oil passages where a goof ball, (me) filled them all with bearing grease. My electric motor was a 110 also. The drum switch was to change the speed on the motor, not forward and reverse. It never worked right, and I just change which groove the belt is in on the drive pulley. Looks great! keep up the good work.
Those holes on my mill has slotted set screws in them. I'll bet somebody put zerks in yours. Interesting in the 2 speeds... that would be nice but I want reverse too. Thanks
I really enjoyed this restorarion / rebuild . It came out just fabulous . Thanks for sharing it with us . God bless.
Thanks!
You have really go it looking good. I bet next video we see some chips. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks Harold!
Almost looking too nice to use at this point. Beautiful job on the restoration, sir.
Thanks... at some point it wont look so nice but it will never be in the condition it was when Io got it.
It won't be long before you are making chips. You are to be congratulated for doing a very good job. I'm looking forward to projects that will see the old mill in action. KOKO!
Me too. Thanks!
I weld all the broken cast-iron at work. I use both arc weld and TIG welding to make repairs. A welding contractor we used several years ago showed me they process of cast-iron repairs. Starting by grinding away as much of the damage area as possible, preheat the parts them weld using nickel rods and a finish pass using stainless steel filler rods. I'm not sure what the stainless steel top layer does, but it works, and I have never had any issues. Be sure to let the repaired part cool slowly. If it's a big part, I will cover with a welding blanket to cool. I have rebuilt two lathes and on mill. I enjoy the mill rebuild. I hope to see you using it soon
I knocked the flux off the nickel rod to weld with TIG.... it didn't do too well. Maybe me or maybe the flux? I did preheat. A friend of mine said the same about the stainless rod.
@Winky's Workshop I keep nickel TIG rods on hand these days, but I have knocked Flux off stick rods, too. What the job at hand, you just always have to be ready to make what you have to work. Thanks for your video content.
@@davidcockerman266 True... and thanks!
Nice job. This will make a mill that you won't be afraid to use because it's perfect and it will work well. Looking forward to seeing it make chips.
Thanks for bringing us along
Thanks for watching.
pro paint tip...if you are going for a super smooth finish......before final sanding,
give a light dusting [you are not trying to cover the primer]
of flat or mat black quick dry spray paint, any color will work though
that is darker than the primer...then sand, any low spots will show up right away
as long as you are not digging into the surface with the sanding pad.....
then you can come back with some spot putty.......
Good idea. I'm certainly not a pro on painting or body work. In hindsight I probably should have sandblasted the main body of the mill. The filler they used was not in the best shape. I just didn't want to deal with trying to smooth out the possible rough castings.
in cool weather like you are in, for a faster setup time on the Rustoleum Industrial enamel [which takes forever to dry]
use lacquer thinner, xylene, or toluene...lacquer is a combination of xylene, toluene, mek and I think acetone, which makes
it an all purpose thinner/cleaner, and is usually cheaper than the individual solvents listed]
.when it gets real hot , in the 90's....you can go with VMP naphtha to slow
down the cure if needed, or mineral spirits [which is labeled as 'paint thinner']...
I like to add a bit of Cobalt Dryer .to that particular brand of paint to help it set up......[read directions on how much],
and also try to use a paint filter
when pouring into the paint cup to keep snurds out of the paint.......I have sprayed a lot of it...
The can actually said to thin with acetone. It dried well over night.
Paul, that is interesting! I like the Rustolium industrial enamel because it uses such common thinners and it is pretty tough. I used a Sherwin Williams product on a machine and there was no real thinning information so I brushed it on as the can suggests. It took a long time to get hard, like months but it seems excellent with regard to chipping and chemicals. I wish I could spray the same.
Nice job, always an amount of personal pride when your work turns out nice, you have to keep looking back a few times before you turn out the lights.
Well said. I agree.
a friend gave me one of those, in working condition a few years ago. I already have a Bridgeport, so I passed it along to my nephew, who uses it to this day. I could have snagged it, cleaned it up, and sold it for a profit, but I try to pay it forward with some of the really good deals on machinery I run across.
Thats great, I love this mill.
You are doing a great job on your mill. It looks really professional. Will be very interesting to see how the motor comes out. Thanks for the update.
Yeah... the motor is toast. I got a cheap one but it works well. The original would be nice but fixing it would be ridiculously expensive.
Well saved from the reaper I say! Awesome job winky! Take care from the UK cambridgeshire fens! :)
Thanks Dudley!
What a great job. It really amazing what a little work and a good paint job will do.
That color looks a lot like the one Don Madere used on his Monarch.
Thanks... Yeah, Don's Monarch looks amazing!
@@WinkysWorkshop What is the RustOleum color that you used? Thanks.
@@ellieprice363 Smoke Gray. For most the mill I used it from a quart can thinned 15% with acetone but the spray paint matches very well too although, I think gray is very forgiving. The spray can seems to have slightly less gloss however.
Dang Mark, it's looking great. I'm sure the motor shop should be able to fix things up for you. Looking forward to you operating it.
The cost would be crazy high.... new motor time.
Great outcome Mark, with the split cast iron gear I would have done the following. Pop it in your lathe and skim the boss round again and made a steel ring to fit, either shrink fit or Locktite I on. You may have introduced stress by welding. Regards from Australia.
EXCELLENT solution! I like it. I do think it is plenty strong however. the head is very easy to move now. (but I do wish I had thought about that!) Ha
Man that Mill looks Stunning!
Thank you sir!
Nice job can't wait until it up and running and making chips. Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching
In my video 40H working in the first minute i zoom in on the table ands you can clearly see what that rod hole does. You can also see the differences in the motors, mine takes a 56 series motor. Also mine has many of those oil zerk fittings, the ones people use grease in. FWIW you can put oil in most grease guns. If your stumped on a motor choice i bet the older 56 frame motor bracket will fit right on and you can buy those anywhere. I will do another chip ejection video soon.
For now I bought a cheap 1 HP motor and yes... it bolted right on, perfect match. At some point I may go 3 ph with a VFD
That’s darned dapper machine. Looks damned good. The feature on the front of the saddle I don’t think it for a power feed travel stop switch. If it’s like some of the older Kerney & Trecker machines that feature should hold a rod that you can slide a dial indicator along. The L shaped bracket further left on the table looks like the stop you would butt the dial indicator against.
Thank you sir! You might be right about the hole
@@WinkysWorkshop Wells index used that boss to hold part of a vernier scale, while the long scale was mounted to the table. Yours did not come with this option because it would have two tapped holes side by side. What the other commenter said makes sense about the horizontal hole going through the boss.
@@andyZ3500s I'll have to see if I can find a picture. I'll put DROs on it at some point anyway but I'm curious.
love those old machines. it turned out beautifully. really nice job.😀
Me too
I like it also good job. Hope you get the motor figured out.
Sadly no... I bought a new one.
From one old iron restorer to another looks good! Ya did a great job on it!!
Thanks Don
Hi Mark, me again. I've been thinking - always dangerous! That motor may have had a conversion from three to single phase. Those drum reversers were also notorious over here. Three phase motors are easy to reverse of course but the switches tended to fail. If a conversion then the capacitor is also an addition. I know your electricity supply arrangements - not just the voltage and frequency - are very different to ours so don't put too much trust in my thought. Wise of you to take it to a specialist. Hopefully they can sort it out for you, nice to keep the original if viable.
Yeah... sadly the motor is not good. I took it to a very good motor shop and they guy said... "It has some bad windings. I can fix it but it would cost twice as much as a new motor" I now have a cheap motor I'm installing. 1 HP instead of the original 1/2 HP.
Hi Mark, Awesome it's really looking nice ! On your motor bearing. That type with a press on retaining collar are the worst. If you set it up in the press then quickly heat the collar with your oxy/act touch, not too much then press...may need to repeat a few times. That should get it off. Or just have the motor shop do it 😉. Hope you can keep that motor, it has the right look 👍
ATB....
thanks... however I took the motor to a good motor shop and he said it was shot. Broken winding. He said it would be cheaper to buy a new one... plus everyone with this mill said the 1/2 HP on this mill isn't enough anyway. I bought a new 1 HP.. Oops... it was donated :o) Good for now but maybe 3ph in the future.
That's turning out really nice! Mike c
Thanks
Great work, very enjoyable video cheers
Thanks Mick
I got a pretty decent set of taper pin reamers in a machinist box buy many years ago. I liked the roll pin idea better. :-( You're doing a great job, and everybody will want this machine. Can't wait to see the running machine and first cuts. Classic machine with great character. Will this mean you get rid of the RongFu mill? Time will tell...... You can use a cut off to slit the motor bearing surfaces then a cold chisel to split them and get them off if your press is incapable of pushing the shaft through. Got to replace that bearing, it will howl like mad.
Yeah... the motor is toast. I took it to a good motor shop... some of the winding are bad. The original motor would be cool but everyone I've talked to says the original 1/2 HP is not enough anyway... I bought a new 1 HP.
They sure did some balancing on that pulley. Nice looking machine.
Isn't that wild? Hard to believe they were that far out of balance!
You can turn the air nozzle 90 degrees and the fan pattern goes horizontal. Great for spraying up and down.
Yeah I should have... laziness on my part
Looks really good Winky, i got some of those Castors from Vevor for my Mill as well.
I'm working on the next video now... they work great!
Good job Mr Winky, let’s see if that motor performs 👴🏻👍
I have a new motor... the old one is toast :o( I think it was underpowered anyway. I now have a 1 HP rather than the 1/2HP
Looking Great!! Can't wait to see it under power. Thanks for doing this Mark.. Don
Your welcome Don. It won't be long!
great job Mark .. Looks awesome & you saved an old machine ! 👍👍
I think it will be!
Nice work !!!
Thanks Jay
Another great job can't wait to see her in action.👍👍👍👍
Thanks, same here!
A great video, TY! It is coming along very nicely.
Thanks
sell em both. get the bridgeport. you know your going to. I love the old machines. been buying remakining and selling for years. wish I had your resources. Thanks for the video.
Funny... I probably won't buy a Bridgeport. This is a nice mill and just the right size for my shop. And I'm too old to expand my shop!
Such a cool old machine. You're doing an excellent job, as usual. That thing is gonna make you wonder how you ever managed to tolerate that round column monstrosity for so long... 🤣EDIT: that thing is in EXCELLENT condition despite its age. It's in far better condition than my BP, despite the BP being probably 50 years newer if I had to guess. Congrats on a good score btw!
Yes it seems to be in great condition for sure. You may be right about the round column mill. I can hardly wait to get it under power!
Beautiful job! Looks like brand new.
Not quite but I'm happy with it. Thanks.
Thoroughly enjoying this restoration. It’s looking great!
Thanks
The machining is beautiful and exudes quality.
Aside from the filler they used on the castings it is VERY good quality. I'm impressed
Fantastic restoration! AAAA++++
Thanks Paul
Looking good Mark, 👍 👍👍
Thanks!
correct on the power feed travel rod
Thanks! I thought it was
Good work. The anti seize should be worn off your finger by the next episode😊
Haha... it does tend to stick!
It probably won't be off his pants and shirt for quite a while though. That stuff gets every where and doesn't want to go away!!
High spot bluing is even worse 😂
@@TheAyrCaveShop I've used bluing for scribe lines... it the high spot bluing different?
@@WinkysWorkshop Yep it's just very fine blue pigment with a light oil solvent "Prussian Blue" for checking fits and scraping work. A little goes a very long way.
4:16, watching you paint, and having to hold your paint gun at an angle
, if you turn the air horns vertical, it changes the spray pattern so you can run up and down
instead of having to tilt to get a good coverage.....
Yeah I do that... it was laziness on my part
It is really looking great. I like it.
Thanks David. Me too!
very exciting
I think so to... :o)
Hopefully the motor shop can get those bearings replaced, as well as the wiring setup. It will be great if you can use that motor, or failing that a period correct one. Modern squarish ones are not my favourite. Give me an old GE any day, no WEG or Baldor box shape.
Best wishes from the far North.
Yeah... the motor is toast... I'll probably get a cheap one and keep my eye out for an older one.
@@WinkysWorkshop If you can WEG, is the most inexpensive of the good quality motors. Toshiba if you want to eventually will it to the grandkids 😉
@@carlthor91 For now it's going to be a cheaper and available Chinese motor. I know where I can get a 3ph motor very cheap but its 40 miles from here. I have a VFD so I may go that route eventually. I have no idea what brand but it's industrial surplus so it's likely a good one. Being able to change speeds (within limits) without moving belts is appealing.
@@WinkysWorkshop I HIGHLY recommend a 3PH motor and VFD. Don't mount the VFD on the mill, as the vibration with interrupted cuts can shake the parts off the circuit cards.
I've removed all the single phase motors on all my tools in the shop, and replaced them with 3PH. I leave the belt settings at the middle reduction settings, and all the motors were 4 pole so they would naturally run at the 1725RPM, so I set the VFD to have 120Hz max frequency setting, as the motor rotors in these can operate fine at the 3600 2pole counterpart motors.
Depending on your VFD, you can actually have the front panel readout display spindle RPM, if it supports this feature of programming in the conversion of Hz to the reduction ratio.
As usual, nice filming and editing.
l see you have a replacement motor purchased. Good thing you have the other mill to make mounts and such.
Great video
Thanks Rick
3:19 I nearly misuderstood the screen comment - I thought you had painted the head of the camera - then we wouldn't see the rest of the video lol ! :)
Ha... funny
you need to read up on Rusty Metal Primer....
.many of the brands do not fully cure if there is no rust...
as they have fish oil and it needs the rust to react and cure.....
just a heads up.........
It's my understanding that the spray cans of Rustolium do not have the fish oil. In fact they stopped using it on all the rustoluim products. This stuff cures completely although where I was spraying did have a rusty surface.
Es una máquina preciosa
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The mill looks so nice! How in the world do you get those metal badges look so fantastic! Regarding the leveling casters, I have likely the same ones in a 1200lb surface plate and stand. The casters were made in Korea and I can’t speak highly enough about their stability, function and quality. “I like it” 😊
The badges were brasso and a rag. It took part of the paint off but still looks good. I also wiped them with acetone and then coated them with rustolium clear.
buen ttrabajo de pintura y montaje
Thanks
Niiiiice !!!
Thanks
I have the same mill. Can you please tell me how you remove the tapered tool holders? I have to beat on mine to release the taper. B&S #9.
The B&S taper holds the mills better but it also gets stuck in the spindle. The original draw bar was self ejecting and works great. The problem is, they eventually wear out and get removed. You may have noticed a section of threads at the top of the splice. Hopefully they are not damaged. Mine were messed up but I used a thread file with the mill running and cleaned them up. Wells index will sell you the new draw bar but if I remember right it will cost you about $350. I'm cheap so I made my own. In my opinion the B&S collet is much better than the R8 but only if you have the self ejecting draw bar. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/hM7LlQfzLdQ/v-deo.htmlsi=xU50Eppd-tybtvhA
Mark, I have a model No. 55 for parts, but 3phase if you know any one looking to buy cheap parts. Bear
Thanks... but I'm the only indexer I know :o)