Hi Winky, another great outcome. Now a little tip for you ageing Brain 😊When you were boring out the original steel part to fit your bearing plate, you used the Vernier and had to do some calculations on how much to open it out. Here is the tip: As it was an electronic digital calliper, measure your new part, ZERO out the calliper, then when you measure the hole it will then automatically tell you how much the hole is undersize, no brainwork needed and no errors ( hopefully😊) . Regards from Australia.
I always forget about that trick and yeah... I need to reduce those unnecessary brain functions to leave room for the important stuff. Thanks for the reminder!
Mark, on my south bend drill press, I'm planning to use a DC motor with a variable speed power supply. Back in the 1990's, I bought a DC motor from a vintage computer tape drive, likely from a bank, so it's a commercial duty motor, probably 1/2 HP, and probably 1500 RPM. I'll use a step pulley, but won't be able to use the highest speed, as that sheave is damaged, but have never used this on any of my other drill presses.
I knew Youde come up with a great idea. Get some belt dressing like we used on the tractor pulleys back in the day. It'll give them a little "bite" Nice job 👍 Don
Thanks Don, the belt dressing might help... in fact I have a can of belt dressing but it makes a mess. I was a little concerned about slippage when I made the wood step pulley. Ideally the pulley should have been bigger to increase the surface area. I think I can live with the slippage but a new belt may also fix it. After installing the riser the current belt is too short. I think the new belt I have has softer rubber plus its slightly wider.
I need to get busy one the splicing video. At one point I was thinking about making belts available but I can't seem to find belt material at a reasonable price. I've been retired for 5 years now and prices have tripled in that time period. The price range is now between $7.30 and $16.00 a foot. That's crazy high.
@@WinkysWorkshop We would all be interested in a belt splicing video but I would hate to have you spend a bunch of money to make it. I'm sure nobody wants to sell you short pieces either. This inflation is getting kind of scary. I have seen spikes thought out my life but this just seems to keep ramping up. It is funny the things that you think about sometimes. This morning I was thinking back to when there was still nieberhood grocery stores and some people would walk to the store with the fold up karts. I guess prices were going up then so all the stores started to carry shorter bags so it would look like you got more for your money. About the video though maybe you should put out a short plea video to your viewers and see if anyone has any belting on hand that they could donate some short pieces. Your have alot of loyal viewers. It is just a thought.
@@andyZ3500s Interesting idea. I think I might have some possible leads on belt material. Recently I went to a supplier we used before I retired and they gave me quite a bit of belt material but "quite a bit" is based on what I need personally. However, the supplier also said, If i had been there a week earlier they filled up a huge dumpster of belting. So there was one other supplier about 80 miles from here that might have a sizable surplus of old belt sitting on a shelf.
Once again, some great information here! And, some good laughs! I just love seeing this drill press in action. The white oak pulleys, and the speed change mechanism are beautiful. I've already said so in a previous video comment, but it merits being said again for sure!
I really like your improvement! You could stamp “oil” on it in case someday another person has the machine without realizing. Mean while, I hope you can wear it slap out over the next 30 years! Thanks.
I think putting a bush on it instead of a roller bearing is in tune with what the original owner may have done. Most machines end up with personalized modifications and it takes nothing away from the individuality but adds to it in my view.
The upper bearing was a needed modification. It definitely improved the runout and noise. I was surprised at how well it handled that one inch drill. I wish my 15 inch Rockwell would run that slow.
Yeah my other drill press was about 350 RPM and this one is 240. A little slower would still be nice but this is way better. I've considered adding a slightly larger V-belt pulley next to the existing one and running a step pulley on the motor to give me more range. My current speed range was a compromise, 240 to 590 RPM. It would be nice to have speeds up around 1500 for woodworking.
I thought of that too but as long as the dovetails stay oiled and the counter weight is attached its fairly easy to move. When you saw me moving it, the counter weight chain was not attached.
Two questions when hand taping, it gets so tight if you don't back up and clear the bite, or for a better description cut off the cutting, it will get to the point the tap will snap. That doesn't seem to be an issue when power tapping. Either with a tap motor like a drill, or tapping on the lathe. Is that due to the even pressure? I have a manual lathe and mill that I would like to put dro,s on. What will I need to get the correct size DROs and do you have a manufacturer you like better than others? Thanks for all your videos!
More than likely the type of tap. A spiral point tap (which is what I was using) pushes the chips ahead of the tap. As long as the chips have a place to go (no blind hole) it works great. There is another called a Spiral flute tap and the chips come out the back. Both these taps clear the chips without the need to back up. A standard tap requires that you back up and sometimes even remove the tap. This also happens under power.
I would suggest using a spring between the parallels to keep them away from the drill bit, especially when drilling with a large bit that may produce a lot of vibration. I'm sure you know the trick about using a bent up piece of banding material...
I saw Joe Pi do that a few years back and I think about it every time I use the parallels like that. The thing is, I have no banding... I need to put that on a list!!!
@@WinkysWorkshop Just use regular light compression springs of different diameters and lengths. If a spring is not long enough use an appropriate spacer to keep parallels apart.
I’ve recently bought a very similar drill press vice to your new one and also like the build quality , although the sliding tee handle is a little cheap and clunky , any thoughts on an improvement for that. Great series of videos on the drill press , I've enjoyed following your progress , thank you.
Nice improvements to your drill press. You might say it's been Winkyed. Interested to know how you like your DRO's from this company and also I would have to cut about an inch off the longer one. Can the scale be cut? Thanks for the video.
The DRO is great but has no documentation at all. As far as I know the rail can be cut. I did this on my milling machine but it was a different manufacturer.
I got my Vevor mill table today and tore it apart to "finish" it. The paint is drying now. I smoothed all the edges, cleaned the rust from and polished the gibs, and stripped and painted it red and black except for the ways. The lead screws need slightly filed and the bearings need to be adjusted tighter when I put them back together. I wanted it on my drill press so I can mill slots in metal. I need a vice for it to so I added your vise to my Amazon cart.
That's a great little vise. You might be okay milling slot with several light passes but drill presses don't handle a side load very well. Something I wish I have put in the video that will help you out. The holes that hold the lead screw bearing blocks to the table are counter bored. After making the video I drilled them larger and used a washer and longer bolts. In other words the counterbore is no longer used. This allows the plate to be adjusted and makes the alignment of the lead screw MUCH easier.
Yeah... maybe for wood. The spindle and quill is way undersize for milling steel. It works fantastic for positioning holes and the visibility and convenience is better than using the mill (for drilling).
I’m interested to know what your red colored bench mat is? I would not have thought of the “v” orientation. Again, your practical smarts amaze me. (Not to paint).
That red mat is actually a piece of .050" sheet of fiberglass. I suspect is was use as an insulator. A guy gave me two 4' x 4' sheets of it. It came out if a factory that made conveyors. I use on the bench for 2 reason. First it adds contrast and makes things easy to see on my videos and second it stop the auto exposure of my camera from making things too dark. That V groove was oriented correctly in the last vise I bought that was almost the same vise. Strange that they were swapped. Thanks for the comment!
@@billkurek5576 To be honest, I wasn't sure what color Chartreuse was. Apparently it is a green color but like a lime green. But yeah... you'll never seen me paint a machine Chartreuse!
Hi Winky, another great outcome. Now a little tip for you ageing Brain 😊When you were boring out the original steel part to fit your bearing plate, you used the Vernier and had to do some calculations on how much to open it out. Here is the tip: As it was an electronic digital calliper, measure your new part, ZERO out the calliper, then when you measure the hole it will then automatically tell you how much the hole is undersize, no brainwork needed and no errors ( hopefully😊) . Regards from Australia.
I always forget about that trick and yeah... I need to reduce those unnecessary brain functions to leave room for the important stuff. Thanks for the reminder!
Mark, on my south bend drill press, I'm planning to use a DC motor with a variable speed power supply. Back in the 1990's, I bought a DC motor from a vintage computer tape drive, likely from a bank, so it's a commercial duty motor, probably 1/2 HP, and probably 1500 RPM. I'll use a step pulley, but won't be able to use the highest speed, as that sheave is damaged, but have never used this on any of my other drill presses.
Cool, Sounds like a good plan
It's all looking real sweet there, Mark.
Thanks Ray
I knew Youde come up with a great idea. Get some belt dressing like we used on the tractor pulleys back in the day. It'll give them a little "bite" Nice job 👍 Don
Thanks Don, the belt dressing might help... in fact I have a can of belt dressing but it makes a mess. I was a little concerned about slippage when I made the wood step pulley. Ideally the pulley should have been bigger to increase the surface area. I think I can live with the slippage but a new belt may also fix it. After installing the riser the current belt is too short. I think the new belt I have has softer rubber plus its slightly wider.
That made an improvement for sure. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I've been using it a lot... and it very accurate now. Love this drill press.
I like the bearing that you came up with nice and simple. Looking forward to the belt splicing video.
I need to get busy one the splicing video. At one point I was thinking about making belts available but I can't seem to find belt material at a reasonable price. I've been retired for 5 years now and prices have tripled in that time period. The price range is now between $7.30 and $16.00 a foot. That's crazy high.
@@WinkysWorkshop We would all be interested in a belt splicing video but I would hate to have you spend a bunch of money to make it. I'm sure nobody wants to sell you short pieces either. This inflation is getting kind of scary. I have seen spikes thought out my life but this just seems to keep ramping up. It is funny the things that you think about sometimes. This morning I was thinking back to when there was still nieberhood grocery stores and some people would walk to the store with the fold up karts. I guess prices were going up then so all the stores started to carry shorter bags so it would look like you got more for your money. About the video though maybe you should put out a short plea video to your viewers and see if anyone has any belting on hand that they could donate some short pieces. Your have alot of loyal viewers. It is just a thought.
@@andyZ3500s Interesting idea. I think I might have some possible leads on belt material. Recently I went to a supplier we used before I retired and they gave me quite a bit of belt material but "quite a bit" is based on what I need personally. However, the supplier also said, If i had been there a week earlier they filled up a huge dumpster of belting. So there was one other supplier about 80 miles from here that might have a sizable surplus of old belt sitting on a shelf.
@@WinkysWorkshop Hey that would be great Mark. Good luck.
Once again, some great information here!
And, some good laughs!
I just love seeing this drill press in action. The white oak pulleys, and the speed change mechanism are beautiful. I've already said so in a previous video comment, but it merits being said again for sure!
Thanks again! Always good to hear.
I really like your improvement! You could stamp “oil” on it in case someday another person has the machine without realizing. Mean while, I hope you can wear it slap out over the next 30 years! Thanks.
Good idea on the oil... I've used this drill press a lot over the past few days. It's a keeper, works great!
Nicely done! As usual your videos are very informative and fun to watch. Thank you
Thank you very much! This is always good to hear.
I think putting a bush on it instead of a roller bearing is in tune with what the original owner may have done. Most machines end up with personalized modifications and it takes nothing away from the individuality but adds to it in my view.
In some cases I agree... and the sleeve bearing was much easier too.
The upper bearing was a needed modification. It definitely improved the runout and noise. I was surprised at how well it handled that one inch drill. I wish my 15 inch Rockwell would run that slow.
Yeah my other drill press was about 350 RPM and this one is 240. A little slower would still be nice but this is way better. I've considered adding a slightly larger V-belt pulley next to the existing one and running a step pulley on the motor to give me more range. My current speed range was a compromise, 240 to 590 RPM. It would be nice to have speeds up around 1500 for woodworking.
Mark, you could add a gas cylinder to the drill press to slow descent when adjusting the head.
I thought of that too but as long as the dovetails stay oiled and the counter weight is attached its fairly easy to move. When you saw me moving it, the counter weight chain was not attached.
Yes paint it. Nice job 👍
Haha... Thanks
Two questions when hand taping, it gets so tight if you don't back up and clear the bite, or for a better description cut off the cutting, it will get to the point the tap will snap. That doesn't seem to be an issue when power tapping. Either with a tap motor like a drill, or tapping on the lathe. Is that due to the even pressure?
I have a manual lathe and mill that I would like to put dro,s on. What will I need to get the correct size DROs and do you have a manufacturer you like better than others?
Thanks for all your videos!
More than likely the type of tap. A spiral point tap (which is what I was using) pushes the chips ahead of the tap. As long as the chips have a place to go (no blind hole) it works great. There is another called a Spiral flute tap and the chips come out the back. Both these taps clear the chips without the need to back up. A standard tap requires that you back up and sometimes even remove the tap. This also happens under power.
I would suggest using a spring between the parallels to keep them away from the drill bit, especially when drilling with a large bit that may produce a lot of vibration. I'm sure you know the trick about using a bent up piece of banding material...
I saw Joe Pi do that a few years back and I think about it every time I use the parallels like that. The thing is, I have no banding... I need to put that on a list!!!
@@WinkysWorkshop Just use regular light compression springs of different diameters and lengths. If a spring is not long enough use an appropriate spacer to keep parallels apart.
@@ellieprice363 Very true... I like the banding idea however.... I just need to stop by a warehouse somewhere and get some scraps.
I thought you were going to hit the parallel.
@@frankdoner8402 It would not be the first time but I was kind of keeping an eye on it.
I’ve recently bought a very similar drill press vice to your new one and also like the build quality , although the sliding tee handle is a little cheap and clunky , any thoughts on an improvement for that.
Great series of videos on the drill press , I've enjoyed following your progress , thank you.
Great to hear! I'm actually thinking about a large knurled knob. The sliding handle gets in the way of the table handle.
Nice job thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Nice improvements to your drill press. You might say it's been Winkyed. Interested to know how you like your DRO's from this company and also I would have to cut about an inch off the longer one. Can the scale be cut? Thanks for the video.
The DRO is great but has no documentation at all. As far as I know the rail can be cut. I did this on my milling machine but it was a different manufacturer.
I got my Vevor mill table today and tore it apart to "finish" it. The paint is drying now. I smoothed all the edges, cleaned the rust from and polished the gibs, and stripped and painted it red and black except for the ways. The lead screws need slightly filed and the bearings need to be adjusted tighter when I put them back together. I wanted it on my drill press so I can mill slots in metal. I need a vice for it to so I added your vise to my Amazon cart.
That's a great little vise. You might be okay milling slot with several light passes but drill presses don't handle a side load very well. Something I wish I have put in the video that will help you out. The holes that hold the lead screw bearing blocks to the table are counter bored. After making the video I drilled them larger and used a washer and longer bolts. In other words the counterbore is no longer used. This allows the plate to be adjusted and makes the alignment of the lead screw MUCH easier.
Winky, your drill press is halfway to being a mill!
Yeah... maybe for wood. The spindle and quill is way undersize for milling steel. It works fantastic for positioning holes and the visibility and convenience is better than using the mill (for drilling).
I like the vise but it needs to be green! What a great series!
Thanks Bill... I think I see a green vise in my future. :o)
@@WinkysWorkshop How about a red vise. I think it would look better.
Dale in Canada 🇨🇦
Great video, throughly enjoyed it
Thanks!
Thanks Great, Thanks
la precision es lo primero ,ya veo que eliminas todo lo posibles holguras de esa makinas antiguas BIENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
True, thanks
I’m interested to know what your red colored bench mat is? I would not have thought of the “v” orientation. Again, your practical smarts amaze me. (Not to paint).
That red mat is actually a piece of .050" sheet of fiberglass. I suspect is was use as an insulator. A guy gave me two 4' x 4' sheets of it. It came out if a factory that made conveyors. I use on the bench for 2 reason. First it adds contrast and makes things easy to see on my videos and second it stop the auto exposure of my camera from making things too dark. That V groove was oriented correctly in the last vise I bought that was almost the same vise. Strange that they were swapped. Thanks for the comment!
Paint the vise GREEN !
Thanks
Your DRO must have come with an Australian X scale; it measures upside down. Negative is positive and vice versa. 😉
Funny... I never looked at that but you might be right. Maybe I should flip it over?
Paint! 😊
agree
Where’d you get those X-Y Digital readouts?
Crap never mind. Lol. Check the description.
You got it. Thanks!
To paint or not to paint??? Not till the warranty expires!!! 🤣😂
Haha... never thought about that, Thanks
RED PAINT!
I was thinking green
Red
Green maybe?
Nice 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks!
Paint it green.
"Paint it Black," 😅said The Rolling Stones 😁
Will do
Be honest. We are never gonna get that Chartreuse, are we? Come on it’s in the green family……
@@billkurek5576 To be honest, I wasn't sure what color Chartreuse was. Apparently it is a green color but like a lime green. But yeah... you'll never seen me paint a machine Chartreuse!
4:05 could use the link thx. Nice vise
ua-cam.com/video/ymALofCqtt0/v-deo.html