I have had the oiling issue on my 1973 Javelin AMX. It now has 95,000 miles on the engine, it has never been apart, It has the 401 with 4 speed. The timing chain and oil pump both have been changed twice since I ordered it new. The first at 35,000 miles and second time 70,000 miles. Most AMC people of the day were unaware of this silent killer issue. More than a few 390 and 401 engines were ruined because AMC never addressed the oiling problem, the fix was to use a mild bread and butter cam and to under carburate. On the 4 speed cars, AMC went with a centrifugal roller assist pressure plate that locked the assembly together above 3,600 rpm's, there for preventing speed or power shifting, another warranty issue fixed. The 390 and 401 engines on a test stand from the factory, showed that with the new type 2 cam at 4,300 rpm's, the engines horsepower was all in at that low rpm. AMC did all this to avoid warrantee issues with their engines. Not that this was all bad, they just didn't have the money to pay out on warranty issues.
Thank you. That's the roof of my problems. The old plunger never fell or came out of the housing. I was not sure that it was needed since the stock one didn't have it. I now know that the stock one is still in there. The original spring was so gunked up it it would not compress. Ican only imagine what kind of shape the plunger is in. Thanks
That one area that you chamfered a bit because you could not really get to it reminded of recent project in which I tore strips of sandpaper to get radius/bull nose a tight spot. Another thing that would work is an emery cloth roll that plumbers use. It can be torn to your particular hole/crevice. When you tear it to size the edge gets distorted, that is fine because the emery forms itself into the work. I pull and stretch the opposite side to distort that edge also. Another thing I do is fold strip in half to format a crease making the emery easier to form itself into work or hole. The process takes a bit longer but I can do what I want and do not risk cutting what I do not want or over cut. I learned to rub candle wax or other wax into the sand paper/emery cloth or even a grinding disk to aluminum from clogging the grit One last trick (among others) is that I can use the folded strip to strength the strip and get more into that hard to reach radius. Finally, when you employ what I mentioned here you might discover something I did not think of yet. If you are kinda like you always seek to make some thing or process better. Now go play...
buy a cover from bultear industries all the machining is done and it is nickel coated it will save lots of time and the oil pump wont wear out so fast.
Holy smoke.... I had no idea. My 390 .060 over was rebuilt by a master engine builder 20 years ago before put in storage. I have 70 pounds of oil pressure at 7 k RPM. I just wonder how'd the engineering group didn't see your fixes? I'm never going to race mine but oil flow is important. If I wanted what you do I bet it would cost a fortune. Lol. But a rebuild would cost MORE. Thanks for the info. I wonder what you do for a living?
I recently had some low oil pressure problems on a AMC 360. I bought a oil pump kit. replaced the gears, and the spring for the pressure relief valve. What happens if the valve was not put back in?
It woukd actually be more effective to fill in the corresponding hole at ~5:51 to match the smaller one because it is only wide on that one spot and you essentially create a "bubble" of pressure difference there. Either way i doubt it has any effect in performance
Richard Troxell Hmmm. i rewatched it and my oil pump housing has a differnt pattern hole than yours. I filled the excess with jb weld so that it has no velocity loss. Anyhoo, it is a good video.
Hello, are these parts genuine AMC ? If not please let me know the brand as I am at this point and the oil pump your next video. Another great video HotRod Paul
stripping timing gears and don't know why? set your oil pressure at 40 PSI like the manual says, the gear cannot turn the pump at higher pressures without failing.
I truly Appreciate Your Knowledge in this Hotrodding Style Dude Keep the Videos Flowing! Much Appreciated!
Love your videos. Very informative and detailed. I learned quite a bit that I've applied to my two 401s.
Instablaster.
Nice...this needs to be understood by all AMC fans as well as the oiling line to the back of the block.
I have had the oiling issue on my 1973 Javelin AMX. It now has 95,000 miles on the engine, it has never been apart, It has the 401 with 4 speed. The timing chain and oil pump both have been changed twice since I ordered it new. The first at 35,000 miles and second time 70,000 miles. Most AMC people of the day were unaware of this silent killer issue. More than a few 390 and 401 engines were ruined because AMC never addressed the oiling problem, the fix was to use a mild bread and butter cam and to under carburate. On the 4 speed cars, AMC went with a centrifugal roller assist pressure plate that locked the assembly together above 3,600 rpm's, there for preventing speed or power shifting, another warranty issue fixed. The 390 and 401 engines on a test stand from the factory, showed that with the new type 2 cam at 4,300 rpm's, the engines horsepower was all in at that low rpm. AMC did all this to avoid warrantee issues with their engines. Not that this was all bad, they just didn't have the money to pay out on warranty issues.
Howdy OldsMob,
Very G@@D Video & Well thought-out MODIFICATIONS
Thanks for SHARING
COOP
.........................................................
Ive Stretched many amc oil springs to increase oil pressure over the years
Thank you. That's the roof of my problems. The old plunger never fell or came out of the housing. I was not sure that it was needed since the stock one didn't have it. I now know that the stock one is still in there. The original spring was so gunked up it it would not compress. Ican only imagine what kind of shape the plunger is in. Thanks
Great video! A must for any AMC V8 builder.
That one area that you chamfered a bit because you could not really get to it reminded of recent project in which I tore strips of sandpaper to get radius/bull nose a tight spot.
Another thing that would work is an emery cloth roll that plumbers use.
It can be torn to your particular hole/crevice.
When you tear it to size the edge gets distorted, that is fine because the emery forms itself into the work.
I pull and stretch the opposite side to distort that edge also.
Another thing I do is fold strip in half to format a crease making the emery easier to form itself into work or hole.
The process takes a bit longer but I can do what I want and do not risk cutting what I do not want or over cut.
I learned to rub candle wax or other wax into the sand paper/emery cloth or even a grinding disk to aluminum from clogging the grit
One last trick (among others) is that I can use the folded strip to strength the strip and get more into that hard to reach radius.
Finally, when you employ what I mentioned here you might discover something I did not think of yet.
If you are kinda like you always seek to make some thing or process better.
Now go play...
Enjoy your videos thanks
buy a cover from bultear industries all the machining is done and it is nickel coated it will save lots of time and the oil pump wont wear out so fast.
Thanks AGAIN,
COOP
...
Holy smoke.... I had no idea. My 390 .060 over was rebuilt by a master engine builder 20 years ago before put in storage. I have 70 pounds of oil pressure at 7 k RPM. I just wonder how'd the engineering group didn't see your fixes? I'm never going to race mine but oil flow is important. If I wanted what you do I bet it would cost a fortune. Lol. But a rebuild would cost MORE. Thanks for the info. I wonder what you do for a living?
If I'm changing the gasket for the pump while the engine is in the vehicle would those gears fall out?
Detailed improvements that should result in much better flow!! I'm gonna have to get me some of those buffing pads.
I think Spike TV's powerblock showed you how to modify an AMC oiling system properly. This cover set up reminds me of Buicks v8s.
Is this the same as my 88 jeep grandwagoneer?
I recently had some low oil pressure problems on a AMC 360. I bought a oil pump kit. replaced the gears, and the spring for the pressure relief valve. What happens if the valve was not put back in?
Another Great Vid......Thanx for sharing...
I bet having some form of equipment for welding aluminum would be good for reinforcing the thinner spots on the pieces.
It woukd actually be more effective to fill in the corresponding hole at ~5:51 to match the smaller one because it is only wide on that one spot and you essentially create a "bubble" of pressure difference there. Either way i doubt it has any effect in performance
Richard Troxell Hmmm. i rewatched it and my oil pump housing has a differnt pattern hole than yours. I filled the excess with jb weld so that it has no velocity loss. Anyhoo, it is a good video.
Im just curious, what car/trucks is this beautiful engine from/in?
Hello, are these parts genuine AMC ? If not please let me know the brand as I am at this point and the oil pump your next video.
Another great video
HotRod Paul
how much of a difference did it make ?? and how long did it take you to do the whole thing
It didn't take long considering the thing was already apart. As for the difference, it can only be guessed.
Ok thank you
The oil filter bypass is not necessary anymore. you can buy a piece that plugs it.
www.bulltear.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=223
Im.looking.too.rebuild.my.343.do.u.hv.a.segment.on.this.want.a.dependable..motor
I rebuilt the whole 401 on this playlist. Do not put the crank scrapers in, I think they are robbing power.
stripping timing gears and don't know why? set your oil pressure at 40 PSI like the manual says, the gear cannot turn the pump at higher pressures without failing.
I meant to say the root of my problems.