@@lennyleejr7763 According to Axxess, yes it does fit from 2015 - 2020 non-Sony systems. Alternately you can use the Pac LPHFD21 version linked in the description as well.
to connect a KEY200.4 Smart 4-Ch amplifier. Amplifier (auto-EQ/processor) in a 2020 Ford ranger with the original 8-inch stereo, what do I need? What harness works? Also connecting a bass amplifier? thank you
Finally a video actually explaining how to do this I'll probably end up still paying sombody buuut I may do it myself, so I will ask how would u use the line out converter for the wires u just rca If I remember right, how would I wire it for a monoblock amp, or would I get a line out converter with just 2 plug ins instead of 4? Thx
So the point of this is to have full control of the sound running to the speakers? Aka you can take the sub frequencies out of the speakers and just run it to your sub?
Hey, how you doing? Great video. I have a question: I have a 2020 ford f150 that I want to install one 4 channels amp for my door speakers and one D amp for my subwoofer. I need to add an additional PAC outer converter for the subwoofer amp? Since the listed in your video works for 4 channels amp. Thank you in advance
I'm upgrading my F150, and I'm keeping the stock HU. My AudioControl DSP accepts high level input. Does the F150 have high level for the sub coming from the HU
i tried this firewall access and ended up pulling the whole grommet through and tearing it. After pulling it back out it wouldn't sit flush again. Hopefully it doesnt leak, otherwise it will get caked in silicon
Cool video, thanks for sharing. Took me a while to get the whole wiring setup, now that I understand will use this approach for my ‘23 f150. Like how you don’t have to cut factory wiring. Do you find it’s better to ground back to battery? Seems like if you don’t you may get sound interference.
In most instances, it’s not needed. Some will argue with the aluminum body to pull a ofc run to the battery for the ground. But again, to each their own.
Great video! I have a question: I’m adding 2 12s to the factory system on a 2 channel amp instead of a 5 channel one. Would I need to do anything different? Can I leave the factory amp and just add the extra one?
Ordering some load generators now, currently having sound problems after installing a lc7i, I didn’t know the speaker wires were load sensoring. Will update if this works
@@josecano8251 so theirs a lot of things to keep in mind when installing in a f150 these years. 1: when grounding to the frame, check resistance on the frame and make sure it’s good. These year fords have a composite steel type frame and can have weird grounding issues. 2: yes the load generators are needed to prevent static and weird buzz, I have a alpine optim 6 DSP installed and this fixed that. 3: disable the door chime and seat belt chime if you can, I had issues where it was coming through my roof rack speakers and it was ridiculous loud and embarrassing when going to a start and all you hear is DAAAADAAAA lol, 4: make sure you put your equipment away from any kind of OEM wires or devices if you can, my DSP was picking up noise through the rear window motor. Crazy. All in all, it sounds good but I know it could sound better with an aftermarket radio like an alpine or Jvc and just use the pre-outs on it instead. To be honest there isn’t much feature in the factory radio that is worth keeping in my opinion, I did it because I had payments before. But any question I’ll try and answer
I have a 2017. Base(not amp) 6 speaker with 8" screen. I have a 2ch and a mono sub Amp. 2 way components for up front, no rears. I see you didn't see a need to use something like the lc2i pro. Is the accubass not needed in these trucks? The fact that you used a basic loc says to me that an audio control would be overkill? I was also unaware that the f150 uses a load sensing radio.
I did everything exactly like the video but the sound out the door speakers isn’t as crisp as it should be. I replaced door speakers and the amplifier is also new. Any advice ?
I have a Mazda, 2015 cX5 with the bose system. I don't know what to do about installing an aftermarket. 5 channel amp while keeping my factory radio. Any advice? Really trying to stay budget, friendly, or at the very least. Put money in the right place. I have the scar 5 channel amp. And a 10 inch box.
Looks like that adapter harness you used is no longer available. Is their another source that fits my 19 xlt with non amplified 8in touch screen?crutchfiels says the pac harness will not work with my xlt 8in screen. (Non b/o non Sony)?? Is that correct ? Crutchfield has been good overall in the past but not always correct with this type of thing. Anyone have any info ?
Anything out there for 2012 non Sony and no screen basic CD player radio? I want my 4 kicker speakers powered on 4 channels and then the 5th channel to power the sub… Is that possible?
Alright I have the same setup BUT I just ran into an issue. Granted it was probably my fault , the issue didn’t begin until I accidentally shorted the system by disconnecting the ground and reconnecting it. The REM cable is now under powered only reading 3v. I’ve swapped the amp and PAC unit , but nothing has changed, is reading 3v directly from the PAC. The yellow input is fine reading 12v. I think the load resistors might be the issue, loose connection maybe? Or maybe there no good?
How do you feel about the speed wire being 18awg, but the factory wires are 16awg? I ask because my amp/speakers I’m about to install recommended 16awg but i can’t find speed wire in that size.
Where are you located? I'd be interested in having a subwoofer setup like this installed. I want to keep the factory radio and speakers just want to add subs for the deeper bass sound. So just a class D mono block amp for 1 or 2 subwoofers under the back seat.
When I click the amazon link it is a 2-channel amp, is there another amp you would recommend that is a similar size and pulls from the front and rear channels for the sub?
Just about to install a setup like this. I have new JL C1 3 way 6x9's in the door. Is the tweeter and door speaker on the same output on the stock non B&O stereo? Just wondering if it will be just the 4ohm load on my amp from the 6x9's
I just installed the exact same set up as you except a 5 channel skar amp and a 12 inch pioneer sub. I am getting some light buzzing and frequency when me sound is off. I grounded the brown wire and was wondering if there was any other ways to stop the buzzing.
I can’t find that amp anywhere it’s sold out, and the axxess t harness is sold out too, what’s the difference in t harnesses and what is a similar amp I can install?
How much overall would this set up cost overall..and is it going to sound better than the factory oem kicker sub.also do u do this on a bussiness you own..where you located
I have a 2017 XLT and added the resistors after watching the video, but still no difference in sound, it sounds horrible, my tweeters are way too loud on my coaxials. What did I do wrong?
I had the same issue. Installed a pioneer 5 channel amp, component / coaxial alpine speakers in front and back doors, and 13 inch sub. Used all the same parts in this video except for the amp. Load resistors, line out converter, exact same wiring kit, the whole 9 yards. Everything sounded horrible, and almost deafening. It was hard to listen to even at low volumes. After doing some research, I found adding a DSP like the kicker KEY 200.4 would be the best way to go. The factory head unit gives bad signal outputs which ARE tuned for the original speakers. The DSP would work to correct the lossy signal the head unit provides. Didn't wanna drop any more money so I ended up just reverting everything back to stock and I am relieved to have at least decent audio back. Sorry if there's any misinformation here, as I am a car audio amateur. Let me know if you ever solved the issue we are facing
I have a 2017 xlt. Want to add amp and sub,but man that T harness is what Scares me. You really didn’t show what wires you took off. Thanks anyway it’s a great video
If just simply installing an amp and sub, no need for all we did, just simply tap into a speaker output using a line out converter and that’s all that is needed.
@@ProvoBeastAudio hey if I just wanna to add a powered sub. Should I tie in to the front speakers from back of my factory head unit. Or is there other options? And do you recommend a decent powered sub. Just for putting a little bass in my 2017 f150..thanks! Added focal speakers front/back coax all around. Peace.
Will all this work for a 2023 super duty XL? Audio system with AM/FM radio touch screen, color screen, SYNC® 4, 8.00 in. multi-function display screen touch screen.
In the video on the T harness part he talks about a brown ground wire. Ground that and it should stop the loop feedback… or be lazy and tell your friends it’s turbo spool…
@@koby15 thanks a lot brother im also having some of the speakers cutting in and out would that just just be a loose connection on a wire or smt or could that ground have something to do with it
Great video, I just purchased everything to copy this installation. On the t harness, if I wanted to add a dsp should I? Do I really need one? If so, any recommendations?
DSP can really help correct the signal from the factory radio, and would be a great option, although more work getting it setup. I'd recommend going without one, and if you can't seem to get a decent sound, add one later. the Dayton DSP is a decent value: amzn.to/3Fn1SgJ
Thanks for the reply. I actually watched another one of your videos and decided to get the lc7i. Going to run 9 wire to that from the linked t-harness then run 9 wire back to the to the harness from the amp. Also doing door speakers while I'm at it. I appreciate your videos to give me the confidence to do this.
I see you have a plastic floor mat under the sub. Is there enough clearance between the sub and floor mat? Looking at mine when it's sitting on the floor mat it looks really close to touching when it's just sitting there.
Generally speaking, set your HPF/LPF to 80hz to start, and set your gain about the 12 o'clock position. Don't use bass boost as it adds unnecessary distortion into the signal.
I had a shop install a 5 channel amp to the stock radio. He used this method or something similar... but when my auto stop/start turns the truck on after idling it cuts power to the amp restarting it. Same thing happens if I turn the volume down too low or off. I have to turn the volume up to feed enough power to the amp. How do I remedy this, what could he have done wrong?
Check to see where he tapped into for the remote turn on wire. Depends on the source, he may have gone straight to the fuse box on a circuit that turns off whenever the truck shuts off. If using a line out converter that only senses audio, that also may be the reason why the amp shuts down if turned all the way down (depends on the loc). Best scenario you use a line out converter that produces a trigger output based on a DC offset (senses a DC voltage over the speaker wire) to keep on the amp regardless of audio or not. Hard to diagnose without more info.
That Pac module does provide a load down to 20 ohms, so in theory, yes! But if the radio fails to operate correctly, then I'd later add load generators.
Got a 15 Platinum with the Sony system. Already have a skar amp, 4 8”s, box, lc2i converter, and wiring. Is the harness for the factory radio absolutely necessary to run the system? Im new to subs and just a little confused on how all that works.
I have notes regarding the Sony factory system in the description of this video. To bypass the factory amp, you will need the Pac amp bypass harness linked in the description to properly bypass the Sony amp while retaining the factory radio.
Same question. I'm having a hell of s time figuring out ground. I've seen this video and your other video. Tried the ground cable to the battery also and didn't work. I'm not sure what else to try. 😢😢😢
Pac t harness only. Linked in description. We have the 2021+ version on the channel where we do just that. ua-cam.com/video/js_VE-s3dl0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
LC2i- has a main channel out and a sub channel out. The sub channel has an added benefit of accubass where you can correct any bass rolloff. It's a more expensive unit, but highly recommended. The LC7i is a 6 channel LOC which also is a great option.
You still need an loc because the factory radios nd HU do not come with rca outputs. I’ve been racking my brain all day trying to figure something out of how and where to hookup
I’m planning on doing a similar install to my truck and this is an amazing instructional video but I have a question on the speed wire connection to the t harness do you have a clean picture or video to see how everything is connected?
I have a sub and amp kit. All the wiring and everything comes with the kit. What else do I need? Connector wise to run from the audio to my amps? I have the Sony system btw. I think I have a platinum.
Do we really have to alter the t harness? I see many different options online for different types of set ups but I was hoping to not have to cut anything. If I do have to make cuts than I'll just make my own. Thank you for all of the details given in your videos.
If just adding an amp and sub, no, a T harness isn't necessary. However, if doing a 4 or 5 channel amp while retaining the factory radio, yes, we strongly recommend a T-harness for a Plug and play setup.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks I found it on the pac website . I commented on the other video installing a front door speakers . In trying to install new tweeters snd 6×9 and all the aftermarket tweeters are either 4ohm or 6 ohm the factory is 8ohm is it ok to run those off the factory head unit with no amp
The 2023 F150 has too much ducting and everything else under the dash to access the rubber grommet from the passenger side. Almost impossible without disassembling too many components.
Max power are very unrealistic numbers. Always look at the RMS rating. Find out what coil configuration your sub is, how it will be wired, check the rms rating of your sub, and find a amp that does the power at that ohm load.
Do you have another recommendation for a t harness? The one you have linked this video is out of stock and their rep told me they aren't sure when I will be back in stock.
I have a 2022 honda accord I installed a 5 channel amplifier to the factory radio I replaced the door speakers and rear deck speakers and added a single 12" sub everything sounds good Bluetooth plays good but the only issue I have is that when I make Bluetooth calls I can't hear the person I call thru the door speakers and rear deck speakers but I can only hear the calls thru the tweeters because those I actually left them alone still connected to the factory head until. does anybody know how to retain the Bluetooth calls to be able to hear the calls on the door speakers and rear deck speakers. I only experienced this issue after connecting the doors speakers and rear deck speakers to the 5 channel amp but if I connect the door speakers back to the factory wires of the door I'm able to hear the calls again. any solution to this problem anybody
Nope if you plan on just running the door speakers off the radio. You just need a line out concerted and tap into your speaker wires for signal. No need to add load resistors or T harness if just adding a simple amp and sub.
Great video and awesome work! I have a 2018 f150 and it has a factory amp and I’m planning on adding another amp, could I just run my rca cable from my old amp to my new one?
If you are connecting all your speaker leads from the factory radio directly to your line out converter and amplifier (instead of speakers), yes. If you are simply just adding an amp and sub keeping the factory speakers connected, no load resistors needed.
Yes, they just ran off of radio power, and the pillar speakers are wired in the same channel as the door speakers (see that video for more information) on the non-factory amplified systems.
I know several others have commented on this as well... but Crutchfield says that T-harness won't fit a 2015 F-150. They recommend the iDatalink dFO2 as an alternative... Has anyone tried this?
You can use a Y-splitter, or your 4 channel amp may have an RCA passthrough output, or just add another line out converter, or get a 6 channel line out converter.
Our trim F150 wasn't equipped with an amplifier so there wasn't one to remove. If you do have the factory amp, see the description of those specific install adapters.
Got a question about one of your older videos. Bought to buy a 2016 gti. Got a 2k watt amp and a sundown 10. I'm worried the alternators not gonna be enough. Been looking for a replacement for it cannot seem to find one think I'll be good without it? Was just gonna run a cap and hope for the best.
Do a big 3 upgrade, and ensure that your primary battery is healthy or high performance (upgrade to an AGM will help greatly). I'd add a secondary AGM battery as most cheap caps are garbage.
Parts used linked in the description of the video!
The harness you have in the description don’t fit a2015 f-150. Do you know where can I get one that fits a 2015 f-150
^^
@@lennyleejr7763 According to Axxess, yes it does fit from 2015 - 2020 non-Sony systems. Alternately you can use the Pac LPHFD21 version linked in the description as well.
I thought the loc had a load circuit built in?
to connect a KEY200.4 Smart 4-Ch amplifier. Amplifier (auto-EQ/processor) in a 2020 Ford ranger with the original 8-inch stereo, what do I need? What harness works? Also connecting a bass amplifier? thank you
That’s some quality work right there
Very informative and nice presentation. I really appreciate the repetitiveness for us noobs that look at wires as spaghetti.
Excellent video and awesome presentation! Nicely done.
You can buy the typic speaker adapter and cut into those instead OEM wires just in case you like to choose to hard way
Finally a video actually explaining how to do this I'll probably end up still paying sombody buuut I may do it myself, so I will ask how would u use the line out converter for the wires u just rca If I remember right, how would I wire it for a monoblock amp, or would I get a line out converter with just 2 plug ins instead of 4? Thx
Did you ever figure it out cause im about to do the same thing and im curious
So the point of this is to have full control of the sound running to the speakers?
Aka you can take the sub frequencies out of the speakers and just run it to your sub?
Hey, how you doing? Great video. I have a question: I have a 2020 ford f150 that I want to install one 4 channels amp for my door speakers and one D amp for my subwoofer. I need to add an additional PAC outer converter for the subwoofer amp? Since the listed in your video works for 4 channels amp. Thank you in advance
I'm upgrading my F150, and I'm keeping the stock HU. My AudioControl DSP accepts high level input. Does the F150 have high level for the sub coming from the HU
Hi, nice and clear video, can you show me how I can put my subwoofer from the amplifier
Oh, I thought you was about to say hey guys this Chris fix it😅
i tried this firewall access and ended up pulling the whole grommet through and tearing it. After pulling it back out it wouldn't sit flush again. Hopefully it doesnt leak, otherwise it will get caked in silicon
Cool video, thanks for sharing. Took me a while to get the whole wiring setup, now that I understand will use this approach for my ‘23 f150. Like how you don’t have to cut factory wiring. Do you find it’s better to ground back to battery? Seems like if you don’t you may get sound interference.
In most instances, it’s not needed. Some will argue with the aluminum body to pull a ofc run to the battery for the ground. But again, to each their own.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks, I’ll try first without ground to battery
Great video! I have a question: I’m adding 2 12s to the factory system on a 2 channel amp instead of a 5 channel one. Would I need to do anything different? Can I leave the factory amp and just add the extra one?
Idk
The harness you have listed from crutchfield doesn’t fit a 2015 f-150
Ordering some load generators now, currently having sound problems after installing a lc7i, I didn’t know the speaker wires were load sensoring. Will update if this works
Wheres the update
@@josecano8251 so theirs a lot of things to keep in mind when installing in a f150 these years. 1: when grounding to the frame, check resistance on the frame and make sure it’s good. These year fords have a composite steel type frame and can have weird grounding issues. 2: yes the load generators are needed to prevent static and weird buzz, I have a alpine optim 6 DSP installed and this fixed that. 3: disable the door chime and seat belt chime if you can, I had issues where it was coming through my roof rack speakers and it was ridiculous loud and embarrassing when going to a start and all you hear is DAAAADAAAA lol, 4: make sure you put your equipment away from any kind of OEM wires or devices if you can, my DSP was picking up noise through the rear window motor. Crazy.
All in all, it sounds good but I know it could sound better with an aftermarket radio like an alpine or Jvc and just use the pre-outs on it instead. To be honest there isn’t much feature in the factory radio that is worth keeping in my opinion, I did it because I had payments before. But any question I’ll try and answer
I have a 2017. Base(not amp) 6 speaker with 8" screen. I have a 2ch and a mono sub Amp. 2 way components for up front, no rears. I see you didn't see a need to use something like the lc2i pro. Is the accubass not needed in these trucks? The fact that you used a basic loc says to me that an audio control would be overkill? I was also unaware that the f150 uses a load sensing radio.
Hello, would this set up also mean that I can upgrade the other speakers such as the doors? Thanks!
I did everything exactly like the video but the sound out the door speakers isn’t as crisp as it should be. I replaced door speakers and the amplifier is also new. Any advice ?
Great video. My brain hurts.
I have a Mazda, 2015 cX5 with the bose system. I don't know what to do about installing an aftermarket. 5 channel amp while keeping my factory radio. Any advice? Really trying to stay budget, friendly, or at the very least. Put money in the right place.
I have the scar 5 channel amp. And a 10 inch box.
Do u have the seat belt chime and door chime amplified after adding a aftermarket amp to stock radio because mine is
I will be using an AudioControl LCI 2 pro on my '22 F-150 non-amplified. It will be set to 20ohms. Will I still need a load resistor?
Will this exact method work with back up camera? And what jumper can I use this one in the video is discontinued
Does the 2015 F150 Ecoboost (with Sony) have ANC or anything else that would affect the sound?
Did you find any info on how much different it is with the Sony sound system that comes factory? No UA-cam videos on it
Looks like that adapter harness you used is no longer available. Is their another source that fits my 19 xlt with non amplified 8in touch screen?crutchfiels says the pac harness will not work with my xlt 8in screen. (Non b/o non Sony)?? Is that correct ? Crutchfield has been good overall in the past but not always correct with this type of thing. Anyone have any info ?
I'm wondering the same thing...... ever get an answer anywhere?
I typed the number in and they just revised it, honestly the new harness is easier to install, less cutting of the harness to get it to work
They have adapter harnesses now with everything built in so you don’t have to splice any wires
Anything out there for 2012 non Sony and no screen basic CD player radio? I want my 4 kicker speakers powered on 4 channels and then the 5th channel to power the sub… Is that possible?
Alright I have the same setup BUT I just ran into an issue. Granted it was probably my fault , the issue didn’t begin until I accidentally shorted the system by disconnecting the ground and reconnecting it.
The REM cable is now under powered only reading 3v.
I’ve swapped the amp and PAC unit , but nothing has changed, is reading 3v directly from the PAC. The yellow input is fine reading 12v.
I think the load resistors might be the issue, loose connection maybe? Or maybe there no good?
How do you feel about the speed wire being 18awg, but the factory wires are 16awg? I ask because my amp/speakers I’m about to install recommended 16awg but i can’t find speed wire in that size.
Where are you located? I'd be interested in having a subwoofer setup like this installed. I want to keep the factory radio and speakers just want to add subs for the deeper bass sound. So just a class D mono block amp for 1 or 2 subwoofers under the back seat.
When I click the amazon link it is a 2-channel amp, is there another amp you would recommend that is a similar size and pulls from the front and rear channels for the sub?
Outstanding work. Lol how much to do my truck haha?
So if you’re just doing a subwoofer what all do I need?
Do you know what harness I need for regular radio not the touch screen
Did u end up finding out
Just about to install a setup like this. I have new JL C1 3 way 6x9's in the door. Is the tweeter and door speaker on the same output on the stock non B&O stereo? Just wondering if it will be just the 4ohm load on my amp from the 6x9's
I just installed the exact same set up as you except a 5 channel skar amp and a 12 inch pioneer sub. I am getting some light buzzing and frequency when me sound is off. I grounded the brown wire and was wondering if there was any other ways to stop the buzzing.
I can’t find that amp anywhere it’s sold out, and the axxess t harness is sold out too, what’s the difference in t harnesses and what is a similar amp I can install?
Does the dash and a-pillar speakers still work with this setup?
Did you run into any issues with factory bass roll off? Thanks in advance
hey man I got the load resistor running into loc and I got no sound…when i mess with the rcas the speakers will make a noise but no music
What if you want to keep adding music n need to add more amps? Would u need anything else or have to replace anything?
Keep adding music? I'm not sure what you are referring to
I jave a question. So did you upgrade the factory speakers ?replaced them forthat amp or are you using the amp with the original factory speakers.
How much overall would this set up cost overall..and is it going to sound better than the factory oem kicker sub.also do u do this on a bussiness you own..where you located
I have a 2017 XLT and added the resistors after watching the video, but still no difference in sound, it sounds horrible, my tweeters are way too loud on my coaxials. What did I do wrong?
I had the same issue. Installed a pioneer 5 channel amp, component / coaxial alpine speakers in front and back doors, and 13 inch sub. Used all the same parts in this video except for the amp. Load resistors, line out converter, exact same wiring kit, the whole 9 yards. Everything sounded horrible, and almost deafening. It was hard to listen to even at low volumes. After doing some research, I found adding a DSP like the kicker KEY 200.4 would be the best way to go. The factory head unit gives bad signal outputs which ARE tuned for the original speakers. The DSP would work to correct the lossy signal the head unit provides. Didn't wanna drop any more money so I ended up just reverting everything back to stock and I am relieved to have at least decent audio back. Sorry if there's any misinformation here, as I am a car audio amateur. Let me know if you ever solved the issue we are facing
What’s it means when your getting very minimum sound through the door speakers but normal sound through the subs and 5th speaker on the dashboard ?
Is there a way you could possibly make a video using the PAC LPHFD21 wiring harness?? Since the T harness you used is discontinued ?
Absolutely, the pac version is the way to go now!
Man that looks very complicated. How much a install cost?
What if I don’t wanna mess with the speakers just a sub?
I have a 2017 xlt. Want to add amp and sub,but man that T harness is what Scares me. You really didn’t show what wires you took off. Thanks anyway it’s a great video
If just simply installing an amp and sub, no need for all we did, just simply tap into a speaker output using a line out converter and that’s all that is needed.
@@ProvoBeastAudio hey if I just wanna to add a powered sub. Should I tie in to the front speakers from back of my factory head unit. Or is there other options? And do you recommend a decent powered sub. Just for putting a little bass in my 2017 f150..thanks! Added focal speakers front/back coax all around. Peace.
Does the center dash speaker still work after this modification?
Yes off of just the factory radio power. .
Will all this work for a 2023 super duty XL?
Audio system with AM/FM radio touch screen, color screen, SYNC® 4, 8.00 in. multi-function display screen touch screen.
Send us a message on our facebook or instagram page and we can help identify the exact parts for your trim needed for your install.
I’m experiencing I buzzing noise and it get more high pitch when I accelerate any idea on what could cause that
In the video on the T harness part he talks about a brown ground wire. Ground that and it should stop the loop feedback… or be lazy and tell your friends it’s turbo spool…
@@koby15 thanks a lot brother im also having some of the speakers cutting in and out would that just just be a loose connection on a wire or smt or could that ground have something to do with it
@@codyn7200did you figure this out
@@koby15did you figure this out
Great video, I just purchased everything to copy this installation. On the t harness, if I wanted to add a dsp should I? Do I really need one? If so, any recommendations?
DSP can really help correct the signal from the factory radio, and would be a great option, although more work getting it setup. I'd recommend going without one, and if you can't seem to get a decent sound, add one later. the Dayton DSP is a decent value: amzn.to/3Fn1SgJ
Thanks for the reply. I actually watched another one of your videos and decided to get the lc7i. Going to run 9 wire to that from the linked t-harness then run 9 wire back to the to the harness from the amp. Also doing door speakers while I'm at it. I appreciate your videos to give me the confidence to do this.
I see you have a plastic floor mat under the sub. Is there enough clearance between the sub and floor mat? Looking at mine when it's sitting on the floor mat it looks really close to touching when it's just sitting there.
We didn't seem to have an issue. If you worry about that, add a grill to the sub which will protect it from the floor. Hope that helps!
Any bass roll off with the b/o system.?
I have a question, I have bought all the parts you have linked and are wandering if you could provide me with the settings you put on the amplifier.
Generally speaking, set your HPF/LPF to 80hz to start, and set your gain about the 12 o'clock position. Don't use bass boost as it adds unnecessary distortion into the signal.
I had a shop install a 5 channel amp to the stock radio. He used this method or something similar... but when my auto stop/start turns the truck on after idling it cuts power to the amp restarting it. Same thing happens if I turn the volume down too low or off. I have to turn the volume up to feed enough power to the amp. How do I remedy this, what could he have done wrong?
Check to see where he tapped into for the remote turn on wire. Depends on the source, he may have gone straight to the fuse box on a circuit that turns off whenever the truck shuts off. If using a line out converter that only senses audio, that also may be the reason why the amp shuts down if turned all the way down (depends on the loc). Best scenario you use a line out converter that produces a trigger output based on a DC offset (senses a DC voltage over the speaker wire) to keep on the amp regardless of audio or not. Hard to diagnose without more info.
Are the load resistors still necessary if using this LOC, PAC LPA-E.4 LocPro Advanced?
That Pac module does provide a load down to 20 ohms, so in theory, yes! But if the radio fails to operate correctly, then I'd later add load generators.
Got a 15 Platinum with the Sony system. Already have a skar amp, 4 8”s, box, lc2i converter, and wiring. Is the harness for the factory radio absolutely necessary to run the system? Im new to subs and just a little confused on how all that works.
I have notes regarding the Sony factory system in the description of this video. To bypass the factory amp, you will need the Pac amp bypass harness linked in the description to properly bypass the Sony amp while retaining the factory radio.
Were there any issues with grounding the amp to the seat bolt? Any noise or popping sounds?
Same question. I'm having a hell of s time figuring out ground. I've seen this video and your other video. Tried the ground cable to the battery also and didn't work. I'm not sure what else to try. 😢😢😢
@@luca2627 I wound up running a ground right to the negative terminal of my battery. Works like a champ. No issues at all.
What would you change on the t-harness if I was just thinking of using a mono block amp?
Pac t harness only. Linked in description. We have the 2021+ version on the channel where we do just that. ua-cam.com/video/js_VE-s3dl0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Nice have you ever taught of selling that and making it as a kit for people like us that get intimidated when seeing a lot of wires?
Sure, send us a message on facebook and we can build one for you!
Are there benefits to buying the LC2i (LOC) as opposed to the LP7-4?
LC2i- has a main channel out and a sub channel out. The sub channel has an added benefit of accubass where you can correct any bass rolloff. It's a more expensive unit, but highly recommended. The LC7i is a 6 channel LOC which also is a great option.
The Audio Control LC units will also load the factory headunit speaker outputs so you wont have to have the LGD's
If I run a monoblock amp do I still need this LOC or can I use one with only 2 rca outputs
You still need an loc because the factory radios nd HU do not come with rca outputs. I’ve been racking my brain all day trying to figure something out of how and where to hookup
I’m planning on doing a similar install to my truck and this is an amazing instructional video but I have a question on the speed wire connection to the t harness do you have a clean picture or video to see how everything is connected?
It's not a personal vehicle, so if you want further clarification, feel free to send us a message on facebook for help.
Do you by chance know where I can get a t harness like the one in the video, but for volkswagen? 2023 jetta
Pac makes a ton of Harnesses like that. I'd check their site.
I have a sub and amp kit. All the wiring and everything comes with the kit. What else do I need? Connector wise to run from the audio to my amps? I have the Sony system btw. I think I have a platinum.
We linked that info in the description to help get you started.
Do we really have to alter the t harness? I see many different options online for different types of set ups but I was hoping to not have to cut anything. If I do have to make cuts than I'll just make my own. Thank you for all of the details given in your videos.
If just adding an amp and sub, no, a T harness isn't necessary. However, if doing a 4 or 5 channel amp while retaining the factory radio, yes, we strongly recommend a T-harness for a Plug and play setup.
Sweet. Do you have a parts list for a basic Amp and sub on radio hook up
@@jessicalinkous131 idk if you’ll see this but what was your solution for this? I’m doing just an amp and sub but I need the rca port still
@@zachtolsma3430 same here I can’t figure anything out unless pulling the factory radio out and hooking up through there
I like the no cutting solution..very clean. Sooo what did you do with the APIM harness that you didn't use?
How much would you charge to make one of the adapters and load thing for me ? That way it’s a plug and play?
Sure send me a message on Facebook and we can chat.
So if it had the Sony system would I just have to tap in to the sub amp in the back
If just adding an amp and sub only while keeping the Sony amplifier in play, yes, just snag signal from the factory sub.
Have a 17 F-150, I swapped out the 4inch screen and upgraded to the sync 3. What do I need to do to avoid any hiccups?
Just did the exact thing with mine. I wish they'd answer this one.
@@mikemike4415 I installed it already it went well. Lci2 pro, and a skar 8 inch. Didn’t do a 5 channel.
Have you used that T harness on 21+ f150 with big screen and standard audio system. The website says 2011-2020.
It’s on my website, yes if you want one built. If you build it yourself, the harness is a pac lphfd31. Provobeast.com
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks I found it on the pac website . I commented on the other video installing a front door speakers . In trying to install new tweeters snd 6×9 and all the aftermarket tweeters are either 4ohm or 6 ohm the factory is 8ohm is it ok to run those off the factory head unit with no amp
The 2023 F150 has too much ducting and everything else under the dash to access the rubber grommet from the passenger side. Almost impossible without disassembling too many components.
This feels like a stupid question but the sub is rated for a max power of 1000 watts will the 1100 watt amp harm the sub?
Max power are very unrealistic numbers. Always look at the RMS rating. Find out what coil configuration your sub is, how it will be wired, check the rms rating of your sub, and find a amp that does the power at that ohm load.
Do you have another recommendation for a t harness? The one you have linked this video is out of stock and their rep told me they aren't sure when I will be back in stock.
We also linked the Pac LPHFD21 there too, which is basically the same adapter which should work for you.
ebay.us/pG1cPH
What do you charge for something like this?
I’m considering doing it myself but curious what shops charge. I know area ect will make price different.
from what i’ve heard around the atlanta area is if you have the sub and amp alreayd it’s about 300 ish
@@disconerdlion3853 I’m in Georgia. That’s fair
I have a 2022 honda accord I installed a 5 channel amplifier to the factory radio I replaced the door speakers and rear deck speakers and added a single 12" sub everything sounds good Bluetooth plays good but the only issue I have is that when I make Bluetooth calls I can't hear the person I call thru the door speakers and rear deck speakers but I can only hear the calls thru the tweeters because those I actually left them alone still connected to the factory head until. does anybody know how to retain the Bluetooth calls to be able to hear the calls on the door speakers and rear deck speakers. I only experienced this issue after connecting the doors speakers and rear deck speakers to the 5 channel amp but if I connect the door speakers back to the factory wires of the door I'm able to hear the calls again. any solution to this problem anybody
If I am just Going to add a a subwoofer and and a amp with a epicenter and change out the door speakers do I really need to do all this
Nope if you plan on just running the door speakers off the radio. You just need a line out concerted and tap into your speaker wires for signal. No need to add load resistors or T harness if just adding a simple amp and sub.
@@ProvoBeastAudio what’s the line out concerted do?
What do you do when a client wants dual subs under the rear seat but the truck has the factory power inverter under the passenger rear seat?
Build an amp rack behind the rear seats.
How do you only have 2 sets of rca’s and everything working this may be a dumb question
Our amplifier can combine the front and rear sets of RCAs to generate the sub channel input internally.
How does this amp compared to the pioneer you installed 10 months prior on a Ford F-150?
We still love that Pioneer, and recommend it. This is at a cheaper price point, and still is a great option.
Will all my buttons on my steering wheel work still?
Yes, the factory radio in no way will lose any functionality.
Thank you so much!
how much wattage is safe to run on stock electrical and a strong agm upfront? i have a 16 bro
I'd say up to about 1500 watts RMS. Any more would be up to better battery / wiring / electrical upgrades under the hood.
Great video and awesome work! I have a 2018 f150 and it has a factory amp and I’m planning on adding another amp, could I just run my rca cable from my old amp to my new one?
I am planning same. How this goes?
do you really need the load resistors if you dont have an amplified system?
If you are connecting all your speaker leads from the factory radio directly to your line out converter and amplifier (instead of speakers), yes. If you are simply just adding an amp and sub keeping the factory speakers connected, no load resistors needed.
so will the factory radio still power the door speakers?
Nope, not at all. The amplifier now powers all the door speakers and a sub.
@@ProvoBeastAudio ah okay gotcha
The T harness is hard to get now.. are there others that can be used in its place
We have a few linked in the description
Does it have to be a 5-channel amp?
4 door speakers and 1ch for the sub
Do the center dash and 2 pillar speakers still work?
Yes, they just ran off of radio power, and the pillar speakers are wired in the same channel as the door speakers (see that video for more information) on the non-factory amplified systems.
Do you still build the harness?
Yes, all on provobeast.com
How can I do this in a 2013 with factory Sony system
Send us a message on facebook and we can help you with the parts needed.
I know several others have commented on this as well... but Crutchfield says that T-harness won't fit a 2015 F-150. They recommend the iDatalink dFO2 as an alternative... Has anyone tried this?
Axxess says it will fit a 2015. Pac's alternative also will fit as well (linked in the description).
@@ProvoBeastAudio ok thanks, I'll give the PAC product a try
Do you sell that harness pre-built?
Yep, at provobeast.com
@@ProvoBeastAudio would you recommend anything else or would that be all I need on a 21 non b&o?
No sound test ?
How do i incorporate a self powered sub along with a 4 channel amp?
You can use a Y-splitter, or your 4 channel amp may have an RCA passthrough output, or just add another line out converter, or get a 6 channel line out converter.
@@ProvoBeastAudio , good idea, I'll get a 6 channel LOC. Thanks
The harness is discontinued. How do I get one or can I use the Maestro iDatalink dFO2 that is offered through Crutchfield? Thank you in advance
how is the ground?
did you remove the factory amp entirely ?
Our trim F150 wasn't equipped with an amplifier so there wasn't one to remove. If you do have the factory amp, see the description of those specific install adapters.
Where do I get the loader converter?
Got a question about one of your older videos. Bought to buy a 2016 gti. Got a 2k watt amp and a sundown 10. I'm worried the alternators not gonna be enough. Been looking for a replacement for it cannot seem to find one think I'll be good without it? Was just gonna run a cap and hope for the best.
Do a big 3 upgrade, and ensure that your primary battery is healthy or high performance (upgrade to an AGM will help greatly). I'd add a secondary AGM battery as most cheap caps are garbage.