It would be really helpful if you would show the best three suits at different price points. Like $500, $100, $1500, $2000, $3000, $4000. That would be really useful.
These varieties of videos appeal to the hierarchical impulse in all of us while effectively stratifying brands by quality and value for beginners who are unfamiliar with what is out there. Thank you, and please, keep videos like this coming.
I own two (soon to be 3) Isaia suits and I have to say, they are wonderful. It’s the perfect blend of comfort, construction, and fashion. For that Neapolitan look and style, they’re the best!
Notable brands not mentioned I think were: 1. Boggi: comparable to suit supply as an entry but large choice of fabric. Italian styel. around D 2. Cavali : Step up from Boggi; still D maybe D+ 3. Lander Urquijo: Spanish brand, love their sports coats. C-
Smiling and chuckling the whole way through. Thoroughly entertaining and informative. "Suits for pimps." "Slightly better than sweatpants." Ouch! So much fun in your videos.
While you definitely know your stuff when it comes to materials, construction, integrity, and quality of the suits, I feel you automatically downgrade brands if they don't follow the old school boxy look. Anything more on the slimming side loses points from you which I feel is unfair.
I was hoping for more info based on the quality of the suit as opposed to whether it fits a personal preference. I wanted to know whether or not a suit brand was a glued garment or whether or not it was a half canvas or full canvas garment. However the video was informative nonetheless
@@ricardoortizjr.2715 All of the big Italian brands are full canvass except Boglioli you have to pay attention. There are diffusion lines that are half canvass within the brands. Sometimes a soft shouldered garment is half-canvassed/unstructured to be light in the summer. So you have to look. If you have concerns about specific makers I can tell you. It's alot to write down.
@@TheJzalee026 what do you know/think about Canali suits? I tried one on and it fit me great but I wanted some info on construction and quality that they skipped on here 🥲
@@nestormaceda1 They're full canvass. Which means they will last over 10 years w proper care. A lifetime if taken care of right. Good fabric too. Mostly machine stitched so it doesn't have alot of hand detail like say a Kiton. Very nice though. My first Canali was a blue herringbone w hand pick stitching. I like Samuelsohn better. Same level. Better price. Very similar if not superior product. I just bought my first bespoke suit for my wedding in a Zegna Trofeo blue/grey. It absolutely destroys everything I own.
Two big ones missed are Samualsohn and Hickey Freeman. I own multiple suits from all 3 Armani lines, Suitsupply, mainline Canali, Corneliani, Zegna, Boss, Brooks Brothers, Luciano Barbera, LBM, and one odd experiment from Indochino. So I Have a good bit of personal experience to compare against for everything but the absolute highest level of ready-to-wear suits. I'd absolutely rank Samualsohn and HF in the same level as Canali, in that B-/C+ range. They're especially good for navigating the executive world in the U.S.. More conservatively styled than most of my Italian suits, but still maintaining a good level of build quality. I would definitely consider them as a much more budget friendly alternative to Oxxford, and a step up in quality over Brooks Brothers (might be an exception for the Golden Fleece line, but I have no experience with it).
Totally agree with you about the Samualsohn suits and Sports Jackets. A great Canadian Suit Maker, I would compare with Canali, top quality fabrics and suit build is top notch, very stylish and solid shoulders. Atelier Monroe is another nice suit maker.
Wonderful video. I don’t agree with all of your rankings-some of my go-to brands are set int the “C” range-but they all make sense from the channel’s perspective of classic menswear. Being able to learn from that perspective, to consider what I can incorporate from that perspective, and to critique my own perspective-that’s exactly what I come for when I watch this channel.
I remembered buying 4 suits in a row in Jos A Bank back in 2014 in their notorious year-long huge sales, with my dad. I wore it occasionally until 2019 and still found it a good fit that makes me look good compared to my high-school/college companions who wore $100 polymer sht. Don't know what happened to it afterwards...
They were bought by tailored brands which owns menswear house, moores and k&g. They still have good stuff you just have to know fabrics and fits to find the right suit for you. Also the mtm program they have are the same as indochino.
I love how the RL Purple double breasted looks on you. I think you make a fine point when you stated that sometimes, it depends on your build. I think we have opposite builds and I probably would fit into all Suit Supply suits easily though I don't wear them. I also may not look as good in a RL Purple DB like you. Thanks for the interesting video.
I thought I was styling with my Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren. I was not even aware of those higher quality clothing brands other than Tom Ford. Thanks for the insight.
I am quite surprised that Hart Shaffner & Marx and Hickey Freeman we’re not on your list. I’ve had suits from both brands that fit me quite well, with nice quality fabrics that lasted a long time. In fact I had a HS&M suit that my father bought in the 1940s that fit me with only minor alterations, and which I wore until it no longer fit me. Of course, I haven’t bought a new suit for quite some time , but has their quality dropped off that dramatically that they are totally ignored today?
No. HS&M and HF are both still Dillards staples and usually are the higher quality suits that older men gravitate toward. They may not interact with them often enough to remember as neither brand really has an online presence. They typically only show up in mid-level department stores like Dillards, Nordstrom, and Saks.
@@jake2011rt I will certainly date myself when I say that I bought HS&Marx suits at Furman’s in Jackson, Michigan and at Raleigh Haberdasher in the Metropolitan Washington DC area. Both stores have been out of business for at least 20 years
@@jrooney58 Haha. I have never had the pleasure of owning either brand (poor 28 year old minister), but I would love to see a quality and style comparison between their new suits and older ones like yours.
@@jake2011rt The HS&M suit that my father gave me was made from a far better fabric than the fabric that was on the HS&M suits I bought new. It also came with two pairs of pants.
Full disclosure: I’ve worked for some of these menswear and currently work for one of them in the US (that was ranked trash tier) It’s pretty spot on 😂 What I will say in their defense is that as someone that is not a man and doesn’t regularly wear suits (cut either for men or women), the favourite part of my job is educating people that come in with pretty much 0 knowledge. Again, I fully admit my company doesn’t make the best suits by a long shot (one of my clients use to work for JoS Bank and remarked we used the same maker for our most expensive line of suit) but the company does give us the luxury of not working on commission and our focus is on building stable, repeat clientele. We’re much less focused on pushing a sale and I’ll also say that at least once a week, one of our new clients will complain about how they were treated at SuitSupply (my manager and I have previously worked for them and quit for similar reasons relating to company culture).
Good review and I agree with your judgements. Nevertheless, I am going to stick with the F class or at most C class, as I can't afford any of the top-end brands. My poor student ears hurt when I hear 1000€ being touted as a low price. In fact, I usually buy my suits used at a second-hand store. For example I have bought an unused Boss suit for 20€ at second-hand store and I that is a good product for what I can pay. For new suits, if I even bought them, 500€ is probably the maximum I am willing to pay. A lot of these are pretty minor inside brands only those in the know do know. Sadly, the most well known brands tend to be either cheap knock-offs or low-quality overpriced products with good marketing. Well there were a few brands you didn't mention but you can't of course mention everything in the world. For example Sand Copenhagen and Turo which are both probably in the C range by quality. But they could be a Nordic brand not so much present elsewhere. Something that must be mentioned is that Dressmann suits are hideous, the absolute bottom of the F range, but nevertheless they are popular here due to quite low prices. Canali is the most expensive brand I have ever seen in sale in a department store, being in the price range of 1000€ to 2000€. In fact, I think custom-fitted or tailored suits in my local city are usually at around 1000€, so I am very sceptical about buying a ready-made suit at the price thousands of dollars.
tj, we have plenty of resources for gentlemen on a budget. I started out with a very small budget, but you can still get quality brands, you just have ot buy them second hand. Check out this guide here www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentleman-dress-suit-budget-15-tips-guide/?
I understand your budget as I have been in your position re: building a wardrobe. When you factor in shirts (CT), ties (Vanda), shoes (mix of Loake 1880 and Meermin), you have already spent quite a bit of money. The last time I needed to buy a business wardrobe was a decade ago. I have been wearing sports casual to work for nearly 8 years. In terms of suiting, I bought a mixture of TM Lewin (I found CT suits a grade below TM Lewin) and Eddie & Ravenscroft. The latter because Suit Supply did not and do not fit my physique. Which I found perplexing because I am 6ft and (was) slim. Yet the SS suits would never fit right in the shoulder. There is *no* excuse to buy F grade suits because you are generally paying slightly below C-/D prices for F pieces of trash. Top Shop is one of the worst places to ever purchase a garment. Straight to the trash.
@@takinggl0ry Good to hear as a Copenhagener! I own many pieces from Sand, everything from knitwear to overcoats, but sadly, their suits and blazers are far too slim for me. They do a good mix of both classic and modern stuff
I own three JABank suits, they’re all at least 20 years old so they’re still decent quality and have held up very well. I’m also a Hickey Freeman , HS&M and JPress fan…sorry these weren’t discussed.
I have a suit supply 3 piece. The vest was considerably extra. I am a pretty active cyclist. I am 6’3” and 200 lbs. I don’t think I could be fitted any better of the rack.
SS off the rack suits are a good deal but in my experience their "custom" suits lag behind the competition. I was measured at the Las Vegas showroom and they left so many measurements default that I couldn't even physically fit into the end product to try it on. I've seen others in SS "customs" with jacket lengths hanging past their fingertips. They treat that part of their business as an afterthought.
Have you made a dress shirt list/ranking? If not, I'd love to see one so that i can improve my wardrobe. I'm glad you weren't afraid to be honest about some of the more popular brands
They bought Greico Brothers and used their suits for one of the higher quality lines BB offered. Greico Southwick suits were C-C+ quality offering a pleasant American style suit in darted and sack coat configurations. BB with their highest quality line which had considerable hand tailoring was probably in the B-B+ range at least until the 2000s.
There are also: Lardini,Boglioli,Paoloni,Tagliatore,Tonello,Tombolini,Caraceni,Battistoni,Rubinacci,Eleventy,Stefano Ricci,Barba Napoli,Luciano Barbera
Great video. I love how efficiently I learned about suitmakers just now. Unfortunately, most of the ones I'm familiar with got bad grades. At least I learned before buying a lot of suits!
I would have thought Harris Tweed Suits would be just up your street, this classic suit material giving longer life is available in classic traditional & tailored options. These suits can be bought from the Harris Tweed shop, Dobell or Peter Christian, if you do not have outlets in the U.S. With various blue hues there is now an option for more formal occasions. Finally due to the flexibility of Harris Tweed suits various components of the suit can be worn in a less formal sports option or just plain leisure. I will score these with a B as they offer a great piece of almost secret utilitarian British fashion understatement. That surprisingly is coming up to its 200th Anniversary; and is a brand protected by the 1993 Act of Parliament, not many other brands have that distinction!
We love Harris Tweed, but it is just a material, not a suit manufacturer. I have seen terrible Harris tweed jackets and suits with glued interlinings and marvelous ones.
I agree whole heartedly that suits were made from the material and by UK tailors _the only reason_ I have included them in the discussion thread is that suits can _'now be directly'_ ordered from them online so from my opinion that makes them _a brand_ as design and Q.C. could be done by them.
I most of the time agree with what Gentlemen’s Gazette teaches about fashion. I have done some research in the last year and I have to point out after looking with my own eyes at suits from Hackett and Hugo Boss that the former is way above the latter. It is pretty clear by just looking at the materials used, as Hackett always uses natural fibers or partially natural (such as viscose) when Hugo Boss and Charles Tyrwhitt use polyester quite often in their lining. It is also more affordable compared to Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren, and can be found at a discount in many places. I think Hackett is also above Polo Ralph Lauren in terms of suits, at least it is way better than them and Charles Tyrwhitt in terms of shirts. It was good to hear about other brands such as Isaia, Sartoria Castangia and Luciano Barbera of which I did not know, most of the things I see on the internet are Tom Ford, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli or Zegna, which are very well advertised but not necessarily the best. Edit: Going back to your video I think you could have also mentioned Aquascutum, Hickey Freeman, Paul Smith, Gieves and Hawkes, Burberry (yes, even though they are are not so good it is a very well known brand and should have been mentioned) and Burberrys, as it used to be called before 2000. Others would be Huntsman, Boglioli, Dunhill (made by Caruso), and even Turnbull and Asser. Then Hackett has two lines, the regular one and Mayfair, there are other lines of Ralph Lauren too, the blue and the green ones. Aquascutum has been liquidated in 2021 but it should have been mentioned due to its great heritage and exceptional quality. And going back to your video I wanted to see why some are better than others, but you never said anything consistent about materials nor construction, just who owns them and stuff like “I just don’t like it” then giving them the grade. I am more interested in objective reasons like construction and materials and not who owns them or if you like them or not. It would also seem like you have downgraded some brands which are made in other parts of Europe than UK and Italy for no apparent reason. Not to mention placing so high up on the list brands like Hugo Boss and Polo RL which are heavily overpriced. This video made me to unsubscribe from your channel as I prefer to follow people who actually care about transmitting proper knowledge and do not make videos just to show off their outfits.
@@jackhu7412 Hi Jack, I think they are made by Saint Andrews, the same factory that makes RLPL. In the past, like 2000s they were made by Chester Barrie I think
Can you please rate Jack Victor elite suits as well as the Joseph Aboud suit line before the quality was destroyed by the Tailored Brands acquisition and subsequent sale of the clothing line to a holding company.
I appreciate your videos. My husband is not a bit interested in fashion so I choose for him. I have learned so much from you. You are always smartly dressed and look great.
Great video, but, except for Brooks Bros, you totally missed all the classic American RTR brands - J. Press, O’Connells, Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey Freeman, Haspel. I don’t have experience with all of those brands, but the ones I do think very solid values for suits in the $500-1500 range, especially the Made in USA garments. These brands are great for men with a larger build or who prefer a classic, fuller fit. Perhaps another video?
You forgot a LOT of important brands... Hart Schafner, Hickey Freeman, Ted Baker, Jack Victor, Hermes, Joseph Abboud, Saks Fifth Avenue house label, Boggi, Burberry, Loro Piana, Indochino Dont mean to discount the work that was put into this.. Still a good video. But DESPERATELY needs a part 2 with about 20-30 more brands
i have some Hermes; too expensive but always done right. I have some Loro Piano sweaters, very nice cashnere. but not worth the price. Burberry raincoats are expensive but very nice and last for decades. I have three Burberry raincoats but if I had none, I would definitely be tempted to buy one. I wear them very frequently, 3 times this week.
I would love it if you checked out Anton Meyer. They only have shops in Hamburg, Munich and Vienna, but also ship everything from their online shop. But maybe you can pay them a visit when you’re in Germany again the next time, Raphael.
I agree with Kiton. Fabric is awesome smooth and soft. Isaia is also awesome. The coral lapel pin is is like our secret code to other Isaia owners. Like a Freemason ring. :)
I have to say I recently bought a Pal Zileri dark blue blazer that I find to be very well made and certainly not pimpish at all. The wool is quite soft and the fit right off the rack was better than expected.
Thank you for such a great video! One brand I am looking for a review on is Rubinacci, I am unable to find much in terms of their RTW. Plenty of commentary online concerning their bespoke work and Luca's style, but not much for their RTW quality.
I think the rating of Jos A Banks was a bit unfair. They have multiple lines (which he separated out for other brands), some of which are much higher quality than others. The Reserve line is fairly well on par with other Half-Canvas suits he rated much higher with similar fabrics and quality of construction.
Even their half canvased line is a weird semi-fused, non free-floating canvas. Armholes tend to bee cut really low, and a lot of very mediocre fabrics. That line of suits is $500 to $600 too. With a little effort you can find much better deals on much better quality suits. Saks Off 5th for example... You can regularly get Corneliani, Canali, Hickey Freeman, or Samualsohne for under that. JAB isn't inherently trash, but it's at a weird price point where there's a lot better options. Almost anyone with a decent knowledge of suits, if given "X" amount of money to spend, will find a much better suit for the same price.
@@heathwasson7811 It’s a bad price if you’re paying retail, but if you are paying retail there you must be doing something wrong. It’s pretty easy to find reserve suits at the $200-$300 mark, which puts it well below the other half-canvas options. Furthermore, the Bank actually carries pretty good selection for bigger guys like me. A great number of the options he listed in the same price range (and above) barely carry anything over a 48 (many of which are slimmer cuts and fit more like 46).
@@heathwasson7811 I wear suits everyday to work even though my store where I work has gone to a VERY relaxed dress code I still feel a suit gives off a more professional look especially when selling high end merchandise. I purchased a suit from the Men's Warehouse a few weeks ago for $250 and when I wore it a few days ago I've never received SO MANY compliments on a suit like I did from that one and I have many of the higher end brands mentioned in this video but I think if you know how to put the right shirt and tie on with a suit you can really make it look as good as some of the higher ends suits. The example of Saks Off Fifth was a GOOD call but unfortunately lately if you go into any of their stores the men's dept has gotten so small and they barely have any selection of suits like they use to and their stores are mostly women's clothing now.
amazing video, thank you! Spier and Mackay was my first suit. Affordable and ok quality. This video provides great wisdom and will help us all very much. Thank you.
You did a khaki and chino video without discussing brands. And it is always a good idea to discuss why you think a brand is good such as quality of the fabric, details. Keep up the good work. I gave you a thumbs up. That said, I think that your grade on Armani black label was harsh as the quality is good though it is too expensive.
Always great content. Interesting to see such a short description and low C grade for Canali though? All of their items are hand crafted with luxurious fabrics in Italy. I own a beautiful blazer of theirs and wondered why they received such a low grade of C or C+? They seem like the real deal.
They absolutely are the real deal!! I own 3 of their suits and they are BEAUTIFUL creations. I was shocked at his brief and low review/ranking smh.....goes to show you can't trust everyone's word over personal experience
hickey dominates ebay, it should have been included. Same with hart schaffner marx. hickey have so many different lines it's tough to even grade them in one place, but I wouldn't go much higher than C+ and that's with their loro piana tasmanian wools. Good suits and good value at around $100 gently used on ebay.
What do you think about O'Connell's Clothing from Buffalo, NY? They have their own line of sack suits that are in the $500-$800 range and are fully canvased. Do you have any experience with them at all? I'm not really able to find any info on them from the web.
Wow, Hackett! I picked up a Hackett suit on sale at John Lewis in the UK and it was the first suit jacket that ever fit me well (big chest, lil shoulders) and then they stopped stocking Hackett suits I guess because of what Raphael said about the brand, and it broke my heart lol
Hackett is an awesome brand for suits. Not only their suits are great, but ties, shirts and jeans too! It is just way above Suit Supply, or Hugo Boss. I would say it can be placed at least on the same level as Ermenegildo Zegna. The ranking given by Gentleman’s Gazette is just not correct, maybe to most of the brands which are not made in Italy, UK or USA they just gave a lower mark instantly.
@@hl9246 indeed Hackett is not on the same level as Ermengildo Zegna as they do not come in full canvas nor are they handmade but they have very good fabrics and good construction overall, I would rate Hackett a C+, considering their great fit as well
In the UK, most young men looking to but their first suit would probably consider brands like Limehaus, Racing Green, Ben Sherman, Ted Baker, Jeff Banks, Pierre Cardin, Marc Darcy, Jaeger or the M&S collection. I think most of these brands would fall into the C to D range.
It would have been interesting (and useful) to see where those brands rank, yes. I'm also curious where C&A would sit, even though AFAICT they don't ship to the English-speaking word at all these days. Maybe a follow-up video someday?
Excellent work and detail. I just bought my first Suit Supply suit and I'm pretty impressed with the fit off the rack. I also just bought a double breasted suit from Speir Mackey. Not bad at all. Needs a little tailoring but for the price point for both made them both excellent buys for me. Thank you again for exposing me to new suit makers.
I find it odd you placed Pini Parma above Canali, but to be fair I've only read about Pini Parma, while actually having a Canali suit. One brand you missed is Samuelsohn from Canada. I believe they make some American brands... Could be wrong but I think Paul Stuart used them and Hickey Freeman now does.
Sammy is a terrific value suit, solid B IMHO, especially in canada where you can find them off the rack for about $950 most of the time. Sammy is nearly as good as canali but almost half the price. The difference is canali's house fabrics are a step up from sammy, but if you can find a sammy with VBC or loro piana they stand pretty equal. Last year I found a NWOT sammy for $200 made from VBC and it's one of my better suits. On ebay I think it's really hard to do better than a gently used canali for about $130ish, which takes some searching but can be done.
@@claytonberg721 Yeah! Actually the suit I'm wearing in my pfp is a MTM Sammy with a VBC super 150s wool. Got it through a bespoke shop that also offered Sammy mtm- and in fact is located in the same city as their factory, so I picked the fabric from their shop, and they sent it to Samuelsohn to use for the suit :)
I'm currently looking for a pea coat. I came across the English designer brand Gloverall. Could you tell me your thoughts on their items? I'm looking to pair a navy pea coat with some of your gloves and scarves.
I would have liked to seen Paul Fredrick they have a very classic style for suits, they also have a very large cut for standard fit but they offer a solid price point that leaves a nice amount of room to get the garment tailored at any budget. I would would say based on the list and other brand I have on the list they are C, they are in line with Brooks Brothers and Polo suits just at a lower price point.
I didn't realize they make suits now. I remember my law school professor recommending their shirts. I think U have two winchester shirts from them. Made in China, bold patterns...
@@gentlemansgazette they still make great shirts as well as suits. They are one of the only places that you can get a more unique Winchester shirt off the rack. I would love a full review of the brand as it’s become a staple of my wardrobe as they have a good selection of big and tall sizes which I need and offer a very consistent quality for a fair price.
I recently bought two Paul Smith suits on a website's flash sale on a deep discount. I like the fabric and it appears to be well made. Would like an opinion on this suit maker.
I just bought a Luigi Bianchi Montova from my friend’s clothing store 60% off. I was super impressed by it for the price. Even at retail they’re nice. I love all their stuff, I do have a few Lubiam and LBM 1911 pieces too. I like those for the summer as they are unlined and deconstructed. For whatever reason, their stuff fits me off the rack without alteration. It’s almost like I was their model. But, as you say, the Luigi Bianchi stuff is definitely a step up.
I was looking for Vivienne Westwood, Cavani, Zilli, Burberry, Paul Smith, Boglioli, Sandro, Ann Demeulemeester, Richard James, this was a great video we need Part 2.
If I had the budget I would stay in the B class or above, and I do own a Purple Label and Pini Parma but I actually wear Banana Republic more often. They are cheap so I can wear them worry free, they fit me great and I try to get them in Italian wool so the material is quality even if its made in China. They also pull compliments so I have no complaints.
Would really have enjoyed your take on Simon James Cathcart as well as Thomas Farting. They have some very nice vintage inspired suits as well as accessories. I have a Tweed Suit as well as a Fedora from Thomas Farting and can only recommend them.
Great video! Super informative. You guys should redo the video for the latest brands and updates but rating based of the quality and not personal preference of the style
Realise that you are never going to be able to research and review all brands. Pretty sure all the Savile Row shops now have ready to wear for example. In the UK there is also Paul Smith which I would say was better than Hugo Boss. Ted Baker which is probably around the Hawes and Curtis level. Burberry, Jeff Banks, Timothy Everett, Reiss, the list goes on.
Thank you for this elaborate quality review. Some options that have not crossed my mind for some reason are Ralph Lauren (fabulous blazers though) and Brooks Brothers, I may very well pick up on these! Thank you Cavour and also potentially M&S could be included as H&M and Zara are as well. I find M&S suits (the wool ones of course) of surpisingly good fit and decent quality and would dare to say I would even rate them higher then i would Suit Supply
While I appreciate this video, I would disagree with a couple points you made. Caruso has the highest value/price from any other manufacturer. It's obvious to me, you may not be as familiar with them based on your C rank. Solid B as far as I'm concerned. Ralph Lauren PL in my opinion is upper tier, but while not the highest, actually better than Chester Barrie in many respects. Kiton is overpriced and if you examine their stitching, can be sloppy in some cases forcing me to abandon them long ago. Brunello should be ashamed of themselves basically selling very high end "sportswear", with very very little handwork and all poor machine made buttonholes. Cifonelli is excellent and far above Brioni, Kiton, Attolini etc. Now this is their real in-house work. Cannot speak for their RTW. Attolini in my opinion is higher than Kiton purely due to the workmanship. They trade on their workmanship while Kiton does so on hype from long ago (days of Louis Boston and BG Men). Giorgio Armani is in fact machine made and not even with the best fabrics. Hugo Boss is not work $200. Etro has nice styling but again machine work and it's sad as I love the family! These are my opinions but based on the fact that I've owned every single brand I mentioned and worked with a number of them in the span of 16 years. And I have a LOT of beautiful clothes! Lastly, I think between A to C, your personal fit challenges may have played a huge role, but then all things are subjective as you said. Love this banter as men have finally come into the circle of caring what they look like! Ciao
One of my favouriite videos from you so far. Shoes, shorts, ties and then back round again picking a smaller number but more detail to yes - buy, no - don't.
Someone who can afford an Oxxford isn't going to Ebay for a 20 year old suit. They're going bespoke and it's about 20k with only like two places in America where you can even be fittted. But yes most of it is outdated, boxy cut & boring. I'm disappointed that Samuelsohn wasn't on here. The Canadiens are overlooked but put out a quality suit.
It would be really helpful if you would show the best three suits at different price points. Like $500, $100, $1500, $2000, $3000, $4000. That would be really useful.
That would definitly be awesum!
after 2000 you shouldn't buy branded ones, just get a tailored cuszom suit at that price
@@picklejarmonsterfanboy9367 completly agree
$100 lol
@@c_h_ Cant even get it this cheap at Zara
As an Italian let me say that the way you pronounce Italian brand names is very good, far far better than the brits usually do. Thanks for that.
He's not British, he was raised in Germany.
These varieties of videos appeal to the hierarchical impulse in all of us while effectively stratifying brands by quality and value for beginners who are unfamiliar with what is out there. Thank you, and please, keep videos like this coming.
I completely agree. Thank you!
I own two (soon to be 3) Isaia suits and I have to say, they are wonderful. It’s the perfect blend of comfort, construction, and fashion. For that Neapolitan look and style, they’re the best!
I agree with you. This video under rated Isaia big time in my opinion.
Notable brands not mentioned I think were:
1. Boggi: comparable to suit supply as an entry but large choice of fabric. Italian styel. around D
2. Cavali : Step up from Boggi; still D maybe D+
3. Lander Urquijo: Spanish brand, love their sports coats. C-
Smiling and chuckling the whole way through. Thoroughly entertaining and informative. "Suits for pimps." "Slightly better than sweatpants." Ouch! So much fun in your videos.
27:05 ouch!
Pimps need a good jogging suit.
While you definitely know your stuff when it comes to materials, construction, integrity, and quality of the suits, I feel you automatically downgrade brands if they don't follow the old school boxy look. Anything more on the slimming side loses points from you which I feel is unfair.
I was hoping for more info based on the quality of the suit as opposed to whether it fits a personal preference. I wanted to know whether or not a suit brand was a glued garment or whether or not it was a half canvas or full canvas garment. However the video was informative nonetheless
@@ricardoortizjr.2715 All of the big Italian brands are full canvass except Boglioli you have to pay attention. There are diffusion lines that are half canvass within the brands. Sometimes a soft shouldered garment is half-canvassed/unstructured to be light in the summer. So you have to look. If you have concerns about specific makers I can tell you. It's alot to write down.
@@TheJzalee026 👍🏼 thank you
@@TheJzalee026 what do you know/think about Canali suits? I tried one on and it fit me great but I wanted some info on construction and quality that they skipped on here 🥲
@@nestormaceda1 They're full canvass. Which means they will last over 10 years w proper care. A lifetime if taken care of right. Good fabric too. Mostly machine stitched so it doesn't have alot of hand detail like say a Kiton. Very nice though. My first Canali was a blue herringbone w hand pick stitching. I like Samuelsohn better. Same level. Better price. Very similar if not superior product. I just bought my first bespoke suit for my wedding in a Zegna Trofeo blue/grey. It absolutely destroys everything I own.
"D: slightly better than sweatpants" you are brutal
Two big ones missed are Samualsohn and Hickey Freeman. I own multiple suits from all 3 Armani lines, Suitsupply, mainline Canali, Corneliani, Zegna, Boss, Brooks Brothers, Luciano Barbera, LBM, and one odd experiment from Indochino. So I Have a good bit of personal experience to compare against for everything but the absolute highest level of ready-to-wear suits. I'd absolutely rank Samualsohn and HF in the same level as Canali, in that B-/C+ range.
They're especially good for navigating the executive world in the U.S.. More conservatively styled than most of my Italian suits, but still maintaining a good level of build quality. I would definitely consider them as a much more budget friendly alternative to Oxxford, and a step up in quality over Brooks Brothers (might be an exception for the Golden Fleece line, but I have no experience with it).
Totally agree with you about the Samualsohn suits and Sports Jackets. A great Canadian Suit Maker, I would compare with Canali, top quality fabrics and suit build is top notch, very stylish and solid shoulders. Atelier Monroe is another nice suit maker.
From personal experience, Canali is at worst B- but more like a solid B......Samuelsohn on the other hand is a rung below at C+ 🤔
Wonderful video. I don’t agree with all of your rankings-some of my go-to brands are set int the “C” range-but they all make sense from the channel’s perspective of classic menswear. Being able to learn from that perspective, to consider what I can incorporate from that perspective, and to critique my own perspective-that’s exactly what I come for when I watch this channel.
I'm thinking the C's are not bad (like my school grades😁), it's that the A's are like Olympic athlete competition level
The best suit is the one that fits well and makes you feel confident.
Not the one that some snob says you should wear on UA-cam.
I remembered buying 4 suits in a row in Jos A Bank back in 2014 in their notorious year-long huge sales, with my dad. I wore it occasionally until 2019 and still found it a good fit that makes me look good compared to my high-school/college companions who wore $100 polymer sht.
Don't know what happened to it afterwards...
They were bought by tailored brands which owns menswear house, moores and k&g. They still have good stuff you just have to know fabrics and fits to find the right suit for you. Also the mtm program they have are the same as indochino.
Love this video! Can I request a RTW dress shoe tier list?
Definitely stay tuned!
I love how the RL Purple double breasted looks on you. I think you make a fine point when you stated that sometimes, it depends on your build. I think we have opposite builds and I probably would fit into all Suit Supply suits easily though I don't wear them. I also may not look as good in a RL Purple DB like you. Thanks for the interesting video.
I thought I was styling with my Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren. I was not even aware of those higher quality clothing brands other than Tom Ford. Thanks for the insight.
BB and RL are good. Don’t worry you’re probably better dressed than 97% of the population
@@jebbush2527 Thanks Jeb! I have to tell you though, I voted for Trump. Nothing personal 🙂
@@garysimpson7326 so did I, & we will get to do it again in a few years
I am quite surprised that Hart Shaffner & Marx and Hickey Freeman we’re not on your list. I’ve had suits from both brands that fit me quite well, with nice quality fabrics that lasted a long time. In fact I had a HS&M suit that my father bought in the 1940s that fit me with only minor alterations, and which I wore until it no longer fit me. Of course, I haven’t bought a new suit for quite some time , but has their quality dropped off that dramatically that they are totally ignored today?
No. HS&M and HF are both still Dillards staples and usually are the higher quality suits that older men gravitate toward. They may not interact with them often enough to remember as neither brand really has an online presence. They typically only show up in mid-level department stores like Dillards, Nordstrom, and Saks.
@@jake2011rt I will certainly date myself when I say that I bought HS&Marx suits at Furman’s in Jackson, Michigan and at Raleigh Haberdasher in the Metropolitan Washington DC area. Both stores have been out of business for at least 20 years
@@jrooney58 Haha. I have never had the pleasure of owning either brand (poor 28 year old minister), but I would love to see a quality and style comparison between their new suits and older ones like yours.
@@jake2011rt The HS&M suit that my father gave me was made from a far better fabric than the fabric that was on the HS&M suits I bought new. It also came with two pairs of pants.
I remember those two names
Why would you buy a 5000 EUR off the rack suit if at this price point you can well afford a bespoke one?
Where are our Canadian brands Jack Victor, Copley or Boglioli....
I have an excellent Jack Victor black suit -- love it!
Full disclosure: I’ve worked for some of these menswear and currently work for one of them in the US (that was ranked trash tier)
It’s pretty spot on 😂
What I will say in their defense is that as someone that is not a man and doesn’t regularly wear suits (cut either for men or women), the favourite part of my job is educating people that come in with pretty much 0 knowledge. Again, I fully admit my company doesn’t make the best suits by a long shot (one of my clients use to work for JoS Bank and remarked we used the same maker for our most expensive line of suit) but the company does give us the luxury of not working on commission and our focus is on building stable, repeat clientele. We’re much less focused on pushing a sale and I’ll also say that at least once a week, one of our new clients will complain about how they were treated at SuitSupply (my manager and I have previously worked for them and quit for similar reasons relating to company culture).
Good review and I agree with your judgements. Nevertheless, I am going to stick with the F class or at most C class, as I can't afford any of the top-end brands. My poor student ears hurt when I hear 1000€ being touted as a low price. In fact, I usually buy my suits used at a second-hand store. For example I have bought an unused Boss suit for 20€ at second-hand store and I that is a good product for what I can pay. For new suits, if I even bought them, 500€ is probably the maximum I am willing to pay.
A lot of these are pretty minor inside brands only those in the know do know. Sadly, the most well known brands tend to be either cheap knock-offs or low-quality overpriced products with good marketing. Well there were a few brands you didn't mention but you can't of course mention everything in the world. For example Sand Copenhagen and Turo which are both probably in the C range by quality. But they could be a Nordic brand not so much present elsewhere. Something that must be mentioned is that Dressmann suits are hideous, the absolute bottom of the F range, but nevertheless they are popular here due to quite low prices.
Canali is the most expensive brand I have ever seen in sale in a department store, being in the price range of 1000€ to 2000€. In fact, I think custom-fitted or tailored suits in my local city are usually at around 1000€, so I am very sceptical about buying a ready-made suit at the price thousands of dollars.
tj, we have plenty of resources for gentlemen on a budget. I started out with a very small budget, but you can still get quality brands, you just have ot buy them second hand. Check out this guide here www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentleman-dress-suit-budget-15-tips-guide/?
I understand your budget as I have been in your position re: building a wardrobe. When you factor in shirts (CT), ties (Vanda), shoes (mix of Loake 1880 and Meermin), you have already spent quite a bit of money. The last time I needed to buy a business wardrobe was a decade ago. I have been wearing sports casual to work for nearly 8 years.
In terms of suiting, I bought a mixture of TM Lewin (I found CT suits a grade below TM Lewin) and Eddie & Ravenscroft. The latter because Suit Supply did not and do not fit my physique. Which I found perplexing because I am 6ft and (was) slim. Yet the SS suits would never fit right in the shoulder.
There is *no* excuse to buy F grade suits because you are generally paying slightly below C-/D prices for F pieces of trash. Top Shop is one of the worst places to ever purchase a garment. Straight to the trash.
Spier and Mackay suits can be found on sale for $160! An amazing price for a half-canvas garment.
Sand Copenhagen’s suits are my favourite - price/quality wise
@@takinggl0ry Good to hear as a Copenhagener! I own many pieces from Sand, everything from knitwear to overcoats, but sadly, their suits and blazers are far too slim for me. They do a good mix of both classic and modern stuff
I own three JABank suits, they’re all at least 20 years old so they’re still decent quality and have held up very well. I’m also a Hickey Freeman , HS&M and JPress fan…sorry these weren’t discussed.
How would you rank Hart Schaffner & Marx on the tier list? I see them alot on Ebay.
@@cs-yg2ct I like their Gold Trumpeter line. Well made, great fit and they last a long time. Worth a look.
@@mlbg10158 Thank you for the response, All the best!
I wear J Press for casual/everyday wear which rates a C; well constructed, nice fabrics, conservative.
I have a suit supply 3 piece. The vest was considerably extra. I am a pretty active cyclist. I am 6’3” and 200 lbs. I don’t think I could be fitted any better of the rack.
SS off the rack suits are a good deal but in my experience their "custom" suits lag behind the competition. I was measured at the Las Vegas showroom and they left so many measurements default that I couldn't even physically fit into the end product to try it on. I've seen others in SS "customs" with jacket lengths hanging past their fingertips. They treat that part of their business as an afterthought.
@@COOLGUYWOW1000 Who are the better MTM?custom makers other than SS ?
Can we get a full review on a Spier and Mackay suit?
Do not understand why Pini Parma is same ranked like Tom Ford and Brioni. Any explanation?
Jos A Bank definitely decreased in quality when they merged with Men's Wearhouse but not to F status.
Seriously JaB is still great overall. Definitely not F
My Jos A Banks suit is the best suit I ever owned. I prefer wearing it over and thing I've ever owned. When did they merge with Men's Warehouse?
Bro this guy rating these suits is kind of a high end snob. 90% of men wear his F ratings.
@@kp5209 The Canali rating of C/C+ told me everything i needed to know lol
Now this helps for those that can’t get MTM or Bespoke, awesome video as always. Chapeau gents. 🎩
Thanks
Have you made a dress shirt list/ranking? If not, I'd love to see one so that i can improve my wardrobe. I'm glad you weren't afraid to be honest about some of the more popular brands
I am saddened about Brooks Brothers current situation. I quite like their vintage suits. They fit me very well, and their cuts are fantastic.
They bought Greico Brothers and used their suits for one of the higher quality lines BB offered. Greico Southwick suits were C-C+ quality offering a pleasant American style suit in darted and sack coat configurations. BB with their highest quality line which had considerable hand tailoring was probably in the B-B+ range at least until the 2000s.
Personally. I think they're horrible. Boxy and, look cheap. ! Sorry!.
Maybe off the rack.
The ones I have have been tailored. Anyway, it seems like over the years their styles have changed fairly frequently.
i still buy their sweaters and chinos. But sure they have fallen from grace.
I may have missed it, but I didn’t see anything on Hart Schaffner Marx. Any chance of doing a review of them?
There are also: Lardini,Boglioli,Paoloni,Tagliatore,Tonello,Tombolini,Caraceni,Battistoni,Rubinacci,Eleventy,Stefano Ricci,Barba Napoli,Luciano Barbera
Great video. I love how efficiently I learned about suitmakers just now. Unfortunately, most of the ones I'm familiar with got bad grades. At least I learned before buying a lot of suits!
Lessons learned; the more Italian-sounding the name, the better the brand
Same story here 😎
You didn’t mention my favorite brand ever, J Press. Their made to measure section is simply amazing, and their sport coats very unique.
I would have thought Harris Tweed Suits would be just up your street, this classic suit material giving longer life is available in classic traditional & tailored options. These suits can be bought from the Harris Tweed shop, Dobell or Peter Christian, if you do not have outlets in the U.S. With various blue hues there is now an option for more formal occasions. Finally due to the flexibility of Harris Tweed suits various components of the suit can be worn in a less formal sports option or just plain leisure. I will score these with a B as they offer a great piece of almost secret utilitarian British fashion understatement. That surprisingly is coming up to its 200th Anniversary; and is a brand protected by the 1993 Act of Parliament, not many other brands have that distinction!
Peter Christian offer such great value for money, it's ridiculous. And who offers a tweed jacket with "action back" off the rack these days? They do.
@@KomradeKrusher "Value for the money" is senseless.
Harris Tweed is just the umbrella brand for the hand woven cloth. Any suits produced with Harris Tweed can vary wildly in quality, cut, and details.
We love Harris Tweed, but it is just a material, not a suit manufacturer. I have seen terrible Harris tweed jackets and suits with glued interlinings and marvelous ones.
I agree whole heartedly that suits were made from the material and by UK tailors _the only reason_ I have included them in the discussion thread is that suits can _'now be directly'_ ordered from them online so from my opinion that makes them _a brand_ as design and Q.C. could be done by them.
I most of the time agree with what Gentlemen’s Gazette teaches about fashion. I have done some research in the last year and I have to point out after looking with my own eyes at suits from Hackett and Hugo Boss that the former is way above the latter. It is pretty clear by just looking at the materials used, as Hackett always uses natural fibers or partially natural (such as viscose) when Hugo Boss and Charles Tyrwhitt use polyester quite often in their lining. It is also more affordable compared to Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren, and can be found at a discount in many places. I think Hackett is also above Polo Ralph Lauren in terms of suits, at least it is way better than them and Charles Tyrwhitt in terms of shirts. It was good to hear about other brands such as Isaia, Sartoria Castangia and Luciano Barbera of which I did not know, most of the things I see on the internet are Tom Ford, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli or Zegna, which are very well advertised but not necessarily the best.
Edit: Going back to your video I think you could have also mentioned Aquascutum, Hickey Freeman, Paul Smith, Gieves and Hawkes, Burberry (yes, even though they are are not so good it is a very well known brand and should have been mentioned) and Burberrys, as it used to be called before 2000. Others would be Huntsman, Boglioli, Dunhill (made by Caruso), and even Turnbull and Asser. Then Hackett has two lines, the regular one and Mayfair, there are other lines of Ralph Lauren too, the blue and the green ones. Aquascutum has been liquidated in 2021 but it should have been mentioned due to its great heritage and exceptional quality.
And going back to your video I wanted to see why some are better than others, but you never said anything consistent about materials nor construction, just who owns them and stuff like “I just don’t like it” then giving them the grade. I am more interested in objective reasons like construction and materials and not who owns them or if you like them or not. It would also seem like you have downgraded some brands which are made in other parts of Europe than UK and Italy for no apparent reason. Not to mention placing so high up on the list brands like Hugo Boss and Polo RL which are heavily overpriced. This video made me to unsubscribe from your channel as I prefer to follow people who actually care about transmitting proper knowledge and do not make videos just to show off their outfits.
Hi Cosmin, do you know which company makes huntsman’s suit?
@@jackhu7412 Hi Jack, I think they are made by Saint Andrews, the same factory that makes RLPL. In the past, like 2000s they were made by Chester Barrie I think
Can you please rate Jack Victor elite suits as well as the Joseph Aboud suit line before the quality was destroyed by the Tailored Brands acquisition and subsequent sale of the clothing line to a holding company.
Not suits but I still have some first gen Joseph Abboud that I think was very well done!
The Joseph Abboud suits are still better than most you can find in the price range, better quality fabric and fit than most department store suits.
I appreciate your videos. My husband is not a bit interested in fashion so I choose for him. I have learned so much from you. You are always smartly dressed and look great.
What about Hart Schaffner Marx and Hickey Freeman ?
Great video, but, except for Brooks Bros, you totally missed all the classic American RTR brands - J. Press, O’Connells, Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey Freeman, Haspel. I don’t have experience with all of those brands, but the ones I do think very solid values for suits in the $500-1500 range, especially the Made in USA garments. These brands are great for men with a larger build or who prefer a classic, fuller fit. Perhaps another video?
You forgot a LOT of important brands... Hart Schafner, Hickey Freeman, Ted Baker, Jack Victor, Hermes, Joseph Abboud, Saks Fifth Avenue house label, Boggi, Burberry, Loro Piana, Indochino
Dont mean to discount the work that was put into this.. Still a good video. But DESPERATELY needs a part 2 with about 20-30 more brands
i have some Hermes; too expensive but always done right. I have some Loro Piano sweaters, very nice cashnere. but not worth the price. Burberry raincoats are expensive but very nice and last for decades. I have three Burberry raincoats but if I had none, I would definitely be tempted to buy one. I wear them very frequently, 3 times this week.
Walker Slater or Cordings off the rack RTW tweed suits?
You forgot about Rubinacci, Lardini, Boglioli, Borrelli, de Petrillo, Sartorio, Domenico Vacca, Saint Andrews, Samuelsohn, etc. Come on Raphael!
Hmmm, maybe we'll have to make a part 2...stay tuned!
Personally, every Armani item I've tried fit me PERFECTLY. There's just a different shape to them that I love
Silhouette and fabric are really good.
@@65mree I wouldn't say that, he's just judging off of different criteria
Giorgio Armani yes,
everything below (Emporio, Exchange) no way…
@@racheengel8970 agreed
They drape quite well but finding the right cut can be challenging.
I would love it if you checked out Anton Meyer. They only have shops in Hamburg, Munich and Vienna, but also ship everything from their online shop. But maybe you can pay them a visit when you’re in Germany again the next time, Raphael.
I agree with Kiton. Fabric is awesome smooth and soft.
Isaia is also awesome. The coral lapel pin is is like our secret code to other Isaia owners. Like a Freemason ring. :)
True - pity about the price!
Watched this video with a grin , totally enjoyed myself.
I don’t think Boss deserves such a bad ranking. My experience with this brand was very good, and I’d definitely buy from them again.
Most stuff from boss is wool blend (polyester mix), I’d rank them lower.
I have to say I recently bought a Pal Zileri dark blue blazer that I find to be very well made and certainly not pimpish at all. The wool is quite soft and the fit right off the rack was better than expected.
Great video!!! I would be interested in knowing your opinion about Stefano Ricci, Boggi Milano, Gutteridge and Dan John.
Thank you for such a great video! One brand I am looking for a review on is Rubinacci, I am unable to find much in terms of their RTW. Plenty of commentary online concerning their bespoke work and Luca's style, but not much for their RTW quality.
Where is Loro Piana? Did you consciously omit them? Such high quality. Nothing feels better on my skin.
I think the rating of Jos A Banks was a bit unfair. They have multiple lines (which he separated out for other brands), some of which are much higher quality than others. The Reserve line is fairly well on par with other Half-Canvas suits he rated much higher with similar fabrics and quality of construction.
Even their half canvased line is a weird semi-fused, non free-floating canvas. Armholes tend to bee cut really low, and a lot of very mediocre fabrics. That line of suits is $500 to $600 too. With a little effort you can find much better deals on much better quality suits. Saks Off 5th for example... You can regularly get Corneliani, Canali, Hickey Freeman, or Samualsohne for under that. JAB isn't inherently trash, but it's at a weird price point where there's a lot better options. Almost anyone with a decent knowledge of suits, if given "X" amount of money to spend, will find a much better suit for the same price.
@@heathwasson7811 It’s a bad price if you’re paying retail, but if you are paying retail there you must be doing something wrong. It’s pretty easy to find reserve suits at the $200-$300 mark, which puts it well below the other half-canvas options. Furthermore, the Bank actually carries pretty good selection for bigger guys like me. A great number of the options he listed in the same price range (and above) barely carry anything over a 48 (many of which are slimmer cuts and fit more like 46).
@@heathwasson7811 I wear suits everyday to work even though my store where I work has gone to a VERY relaxed dress code I still feel a suit gives off a more professional look especially when selling high end merchandise. I purchased a suit from the Men's Warehouse a few weeks ago for $250 and when I wore it a few days ago I've never received SO MANY compliments on a suit like I did from that one and I have many of
the higher end brands mentioned in this video but I think if you know how to put the right shirt and tie on with a suit you can really make it look as good as some of the higher ends suits. The example of Saks Off Fifth was a GOOD call but unfortunately lately if you go into any of their stores the men's dept has gotten so small and they barely have any selection of suits like they use to and their stores are mostly women's clothing now.
Funny I am 60 now been a Constrution worker all my life basically I am rough around the edgers you have helped me heaps toattally helped me thank you
What about Stefano Ricci?
Was just about to spend 600$ on a suit from hawes&curtis thank you gentlemens gazette
amazing video, thank you! Spier and Mackay was my first suit. Affordable and ok quality. This video provides great wisdom and will help us all very much. Thank you.
Fun fact: Brunello Cucinelli make the t-shirts that Mark Zuckerberg wears.
Another interesting, amusing and informative video, Sven. But, er... haven't you forgotten Cerruti???
Zegna is a really good brand.
You did a khaki and chino video without discussing brands. And it is always a good idea to discuss why you think a brand is good such as quality of the fabric, details. Keep up the good work. I gave you a thumbs up. That said, I think that your grade on Armani black label was harsh as the quality is good though it is too expensive.
Always great content. Interesting to see such a short description and low C grade for Canali though? All of their items are hand crafted with luxurious fabrics in Italy. I own a beautiful blazer of theirs and wondered why they received such a low grade of C or C+? They seem like the real deal.
They absolutely are the real deal!! I own 3 of their suits and they are BEAUTIFUL creations. I was shocked at his brief and low review/ranking smh.....goes to show you can't trust everyone's word over personal experience
It would be great to see such ranking for other garments too, for example for shirts, trousers, sportcoats etc.
Best men's fashion channel. Everyone else is busy around promoting their stuff and giving unsolicited advice.
All of my suits and most sport coats are Hickey Freeman, the others are Peter Milar. Neither were on your list.
hickey dominates ebay, it should have been included. Same with hart schaffner marx. hickey have so many different lines it's tough to even grade them in one place, but I wouldn't go much higher than C+ and that's with their loro piana tasmanian wools. Good suits and good value at around $100 gently used on ebay.
What do you think about O'Connell's Clothing from Buffalo, NY? They have their own line of sack suits that are in the $500-$800 range and are fully canvased. Do you have any experience with them at all? I'm not really able to find any info on them from the web.
Wow, Hackett! I picked up a Hackett suit on sale at John Lewis in the UK and it was the first suit jacket that ever fit me well (big chest, lil shoulders) and then they stopped stocking Hackett suits I guess because of what Raphael said about the brand, and it broke my heart lol
Hackett is an awesome brand for suits. Not only their suits are great, but ties, shirts and jeans too! It is just way above Suit Supply, or Hugo Boss. I would say it can be placed at least on the same level as Ermenegildo Zegna. The ranking given by Gentleman’s Gazette is just not correct, maybe to most of the brands which are not made in Italy, UK or USA they just gave a lower mark instantly.
@@cosmindumitrescu6631 not same level as zegna but they use very good fabric like loropiana 150s fabric and also very gorgeous english design
@@hl9246 indeed Hackett is not on the same level as Ermengildo Zegna as they do not come in full canvas nor are they handmade but they have very good fabrics and good construction overall, I would rate Hackett a C+, considering their great fit as well
In the UK, most young men looking to but their first suit would probably consider brands like Limehaus, Racing Green, Ben Sherman, Ted Baker, Jeff Banks, Pierre Cardin, Marc Darcy, Jaeger or the M&S collection. I think most of these brands would fall into the C to D range.
It would have been interesting (and useful) to see where those brands rank, yes. I'm also curious where C&A would sit, even though AFAICT they don't ship to the English-speaking word at all these days. Maybe a follow-up video someday?
Excellent work and detail. I just bought my first Suit Supply suit and I'm pretty impressed with the fit off the rack. I also just bought a double breasted suit from Speir Mackey. Not bad at all. Needs a little tailoring but for the price point for both made them both excellent buys for me. Thank you again for exposing me to new suit makers.
Gieves & Hawkes? I can’t suggest a grade because I don’t have any firsthand experience.
I find it odd you placed Pini Parma above Canali, but to be fair I've only read about Pini Parma, while actually having a Canali suit.
One brand you missed is Samuelsohn from Canada. I believe they make some American brands... Could be wrong but I think Paul Stuart used them and Hickey Freeman now does.
Sammy is a terrific value suit, solid B IMHO, especially in canada where you can find them off the rack for about $950 most of the time. Sammy is nearly as good as canali but almost half the price. The difference is canali's house fabrics are a step up from sammy, but if you can find a sammy with VBC or loro piana they stand pretty equal. Last year I found a NWOT sammy for $200 made from VBC and it's one of my better suits.
On ebay I think it's really hard to do better than a gently used canali for about $130ish, which takes some searching but can be done.
@@claytonberg721 Yeah! Actually the suit I'm wearing in my pfp is a MTM Sammy with a VBC super 150s wool. Got it through a bespoke shop that also offered Sammy mtm- and in fact is located in the same city as their factory, so I picked the fabric from their shop, and they sent it to Samuelsohn to use for the suit :)
I was honestly shocked to see the low grade given to Canali. I love my Canali suits and their quality
I was expecting to hear about Burberry off the rack stuff. That's all I can think of awesome stuff as usual
Have you thought about Boggi? Excellent reviews nevertheless.
Hart Shaffner & Marx and Hickey Freeman should be mentioned. Hickey 38R always fits me perfectly.
Great video! I think Jos A bank is around C at least. Their material is good. $50-75 with a tailor, they fit really well
I'm currently looking for a pea coat. I came across the English designer brand Gloverall. Could you tell me your thoughts on their items? I'm looking to pair a navy pea coat with some of your gloves and scarves.
What about Lanvin , I see them as a solid option, fabric and construction is very good and style is more of a modern classic.
You have to test Lanieri. Good fabrics, nice construction, high level service (in Italy for sure)
I would have liked to seen Paul Fredrick they have a very classic style for suits, they also have a very large cut for standard fit but they offer a solid price point that leaves a nice amount of room to get the garment tailored at any budget. I would would say based on the list and other brand I have on the list they are C, they are in line with Brooks Brothers and Polo suits just at a lower price point.
I didn't realize they make suits now. I remember my law school professor recommending their shirts. I think U have two winchester shirts from them. Made in China, bold patterns...
@@gentlemansgazette they still make great shirts as well as suits. They are one of the only places that you can get a more unique Winchester shirt off the rack. I would love a full review of the brand as it’s become a staple of my wardrobe as they have a good selection of big and tall sizes which I need and offer a very consistent quality for a fair price.
Bought a good condition full corneliani suit for €7.50 some years ago. I still love it.
This was in a thrift store
Raphael’s suit is on point
Experience and knowledge are so important for anybody if want to make video like this. Not just abstract judgement.
Really ranked hugo boss over Giorgio Armani 😬😬😬
How about De Petrillo suits? Thank you!
Thoughts on Paul Smith?
I recently bought two Paul Smith suits on a website's flash sale on a deep discount. I like the fabric and it appears to be well made. Would like an opinion on this suit maker.
I just bought a Luigi Bianchi Montova from my friend’s clothing store 60% off. I was super impressed by it for the price. Even at retail they’re nice. I love all their stuff, I do have a few Lubiam and LBM 1911 pieces too. I like those for the summer as they are unlined and deconstructed. For whatever reason, their stuff fits me off the rack without alteration. It’s almost like I was their model. But, as you say, the Luigi Bianchi stuff is definitely a step up.
As someone who wears only Kiton, Brioni, and RL PL, I'm quite happy at this tier list:P
As someone who wears only hoodies and sweatpants I'd have to agree
I was looking for Vivienne Westwood, Cavani, Zilli, Burberry, Paul Smith, Boglioli, Sandro, Ann Demeulemeester, Richard James, this was a great video we need Part 2.
Isaia is not B Isaia must be A
Oh, yes. This is a video I wanted to see.
If I had the budget I would stay in the B class or above, and I do own a Purple Label and Pini Parma but I actually wear Banana Republic more often. They are cheap so I can wear them worry free, they fit me great and I try to get them in Italian wool so the material is quality even if its made in China. They also pull compliments so I have no complaints.
Would really have enjoyed your take on Simon James Cathcart as well as Thomas Farting. They have some very nice vintage inspired suits as well as accessories. I have a Tweed Suit as well as a Fedora from Thomas Farting and can only recommend them.
Great video! Super informative. You guys should redo the video for the latest brands and updates but rating based of the quality and not personal preference of the style
No. Not 10K for a suit. No way, no how...the opposite of Wal de Mart.
@@TheSultan1470 Yes.
Realise that you are never going to be able to research and review all brands.
Pretty sure all the Savile Row shops now have ready to wear for example.
In the UK there is also Paul Smith which I would say was better than Hugo Boss. Ted Baker which is probably around the Hawes and Curtis level. Burberry, Jeff Banks, Timothy Everett, Reiss, the list goes on.
Thank you for this elaborate quality review.
Some options that have not crossed my mind for some reason are Ralph Lauren (fabulous blazers though) and Brooks Brothers, I may very well pick up on these! Thank you
Cavour and also potentially M&S could be included as H&M and Zara are as well. I find M&S suits (the wool ones of course) of surpisingly good fit and decent quality and would dare to say I would even rate them higher then i would Suit Supply
What about Boggi Milano? Worth it or not?
While I appreciate this video, I would disagree with a couple points you made. Caruso has the highest value/price from any other manufacturer. It's obvious to me, you may not be as familiar with them based on your C rank. Solid B as far as I'm concerned. Ralph Lauren PL in my opinion is upper tier, but while not the highest, actually better than Chester Barrie in many respects. Kiton is overpriced and if you examine their stitching, can be sloppy in some cases forcing me to abandon them long ago. Brunello should be ashamed of themselves basically selling very high end "sportswear", with very very little handwork and all poor machine made buttonholes. Cifonelli is excellent and far above Brioni, Kiton, Attolini etc. Now this is their real in-house work. Cannot speak for their RTW. Attolini in my opinion is higher than Kiton purely due to the workmanship. They trade on their workmanship while Kiton does so on hype from long ago (days of Louis Boston and BG Men). Giorgio Armani is in fact machine made and not even with the best fabrics. Hugo Boss is not work $200. Etro has nice styling but again machine work and it's sad as I love the family! These are my opinions but based on the fact that I've owned every single brand I mentioned and worked with a number of them in the span of 16 years. And I have a LOT of beautiful clothes! Lastly, I think between A to C, your personal fit challenges may have played a huge role, but then all things are subjective as you said. Love this banter as men have finally come into the circle of caring what they look like! Ciao
What about Rubinacci RTW suits? B-)
No Marks & Spencer?
My countrymen from 50-80 will be rioting tonight
One of my favouriite videos from you so far. Shoes, shorts, ties and then back round again picking a smaller number but more detail to yes - buy, no - don't.
I would rate your hair cut as an F.
Someone who can afford an Oxxford isn't going to Ebay for a 20 year old suit. They're going bespoke and it's about 20k with only like two places in America where you can even be fittted. But yes most of it is outdated, boxy cut & boring. I'm disappointed that Samuelsohn wasn't on here. The Canadiens are overlooked but put out a quality suit.