On the hardstand for the first time
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this video I put the steel trawler up on the hardstand for the first time and finally get to see what condition it is in underneath. Unfortunately all the anodes are gone and there is some corrosion damage as a result but nothing that can't be fixed - somewhere else...
This video is a part of a series of videos. View the others here • Steel trawler restoration
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Stu, First off very nice videos. Second, I know it seems a huge job and your boat yard for lack of a better term screwed you over, but after it's in the new yard I believe your gonna find it's not that bad. You most likely will find a few more soft spots, but honestly unless there is some huge patch your not showing us I bet you find that most of the patches are gonna be less than 6 inches. Get her clean. Get her in primer and fix the rudder. Epoxy paint and primer should make her good for another 10 years or so. Best of luck from the states!
agreed..........
Sure thing champ what ever you say.
Dude, i work in boatyards on weekends all steel work boats. To you this might seem like a lot of work but it's nothing major all easily fixable. What i see is a good lil steel boat and if you take your time you will have a fine boat for many years to come. Good luck and have fun :)
btw, anything looks kinda questionable below the waterline fix it while in dry dock otherwise ya going to say " why didn't do it while i had a chance".
For sure, couldn't agree more.
"Poor life decisions" - hardly...you are doing what you want Stu...you are in a beautiful location, have a magnificent and eager audience that you contribute to regularly...the boat is going to be wonderful for you.
The trough of disillusionment, oh how I remember that with my first project boat. In the end it all worked out though and I'm very glad it did and I'm sure it will for you as well. Good luck with her Stu.
I merely stripped the shabby paint from my wooden dinghy and felt that trough briefly. Nothing I couldn't attempt to fix. Some filler and paint make the woodworker I ain't.
Shipyards are like ex-wives. They all suck, but some are worse than others. :) If you can weld, that's half the battle. Make sure your welder has enough amperage to get good penatration. When I took boats into the yard we went in this order: Pull rudders and prop shafts, clean hull, replace steel and fittings as necessary, paint hull and reinstall rudders and shafts. It's wise to pay the guy to blast the hull. You may be able to flip the prop shaft as well depending on it's condition. That's what we did with our boats in the Arctic. Make sure to wire wheel the bilges and see if you have any steel rotting from the inside. Good call on the ultrasound as well. Good luck. :)
Bummer about the marina. Sounds like they just wanted the haul out fee. I work at a small marina myself as a welder fabricator, as far as stainless goes, just buy a brand new stainless wire brush and use it for nothing else. A brush that's been used on regular steel will leave rust spots all over the stainless.
To be honest I've seen worse steel hulls myself. Yours is not too bad! A little insight about marinas and steel boats. The reason why marinas have a jaundiced eye steels boats is because of folks doing exactly what your doing. A mojority of the time the owners get into the project way over the there heads and go broke trying to fix the boat. Now the marina is stuck with a heap of steel and out fee's owed. Most of the time the owners just walk away, leaving a mess for the marina to clean up.
I know that's not going to be the case for you, I'm just shedding some light on the marinas attitude. They should have been more honest with you in the beginning.
Thanks for the explanation, but I still don't understand the bias against steel boat: if someone abandon a steel boat, at least the steel has scrap value; if someone abandon a fiberglass boat, you have to pay dump fee to get rid of it.
@@wshtb compared to lost income because of unpaid fees, potential income lost because the space is taken up then the cost of cutting it up, the scrap fees cover virtually nothing. It happens with fiberglass boats too but with fiberglass boats, they just get crushed.
That and the fact that while you are grinding and cutting for days on end, all that steel dust settles on the guys fancy boat next to you and stains the crap out of it.
Thanks for the heads up. That makes sense. You see a lot of junk boat sitting at Marine is that nobody wants.
@@jacknimble1 not to mention the houses next door
It looks like your rudder is stainless and your rudder shaft is stainless, but some idiot welded a non-stainless flange on the end of the shaft. Pull the shaft and invert it, cutting off the bad end and weld a stainless flange on the other end with stainless rod. You have excess shafting above the steering arm you unbolted. Make sure you have weld-through primer on hand to coat any area you are going to fix when he comes and sandblasts the hull. Have a can of red primer and a roller for the rest of the hull. Do this immediately! Even if you have to work through the night! It will almost instantly flash-rust after sandblasting. Don't bother coating the rudder, just remove the junk on the surface with a wire brush or a sander.
That's a great idea about flipping the rudder post. This is why I love the internet! Will definitely prime immediately after sandblasting in one long session and as I suggested I have already bought three cans of weld through primer. :)
That flange could very well be stainless, but tube and plate will almost always be slightly different alloys, and welding disrupts their structure, causing galvanic corrosion between different areas of the same part. Sometimes you can only do so much, because everything is a compromise. Just do what you can, it's a ship, not a Faberge Egg!
@@DangarMarine If your new yard allows it, spray on the barrier coat rather than rolling on. The gear isn't too expensive and it will go a lot faster and give a fairer hull. I epoxy coated my fiberglass hull last year and wish my yard would have allowed me to spray.
The galvanic isolator is one of the best things you can add onto that boat if you're going to have Shore power best thing take care of everything under the waterline. Shaft shaft seals you could always work above the waterline when all the bottom is done
Chin up mate....it's going to be worth the pain. Glad you got the new space sorted and sending high tides your way :)
I worked for a couple of cray fisherman in Tasmania in the mid sixties, so can understand what you are going through.
One was a 38 foot wooden boat with a well, the other was a steel boat with a tank. The steel boat was a converted yatch and was a lot of work. We had them up on the local slip during the closed season and I worked for food and board in both cases as I crewed on a share basis during the season. In both cases the boats were on the slip for around 2 weeks. Wishing you all the best with you new toy.
Cheers,
Mike from Adelaide.
Don't ask me how I came across your adventure, never owned a boat, but it is fascinating to watch. The style of boat you have is very similar to some I have seen at the small in shore fishing ports around the East coast of Scotland where I lived for most of my life .. went out fishing from a few of them, happy days!
Easy for me to say but you look like a confident, competent guy who knows how to get things done so I don't see many problems for you ... other than money. It is a shame that money has been wasted getting the boat out only to find you can't do much but what is done is done. With the boat out of the water for a month though you should be able to get on and sort the really pressing problems out to make the boat watertight and protected until she is out of the water again. I am not a boat owner nor have I worked on one but I have done a lot of renovation work on an old French farmhouse... there are some surprising parallels especially the money. However most of the work I have done has been like what is in front of you righting neglect ... hard work common sense and confidence will see you through! I am sure there are going to be loads of people about to give you encouragement which is very important.I am going to watch your progress so good luck with the task... it is going well so far. All the best!
Hi Stu,
I was 20 years in the UK naval refit ship and submarine yards from 1984-2000, when I saw your needle gun I cringed, we called them nobbling guns back in the day and there was always about 30 of them going at the start of the refit, that's when you know you're alive listening to that shit,lol.
Sandblasting or any kind of blasting is the way ahead, do it once, do it right and see what it reveals and take it from there, even if it's bad.
I always remembered when the subs came in for refit, under the main casing and tanks were always in good condition after 2 years at sea underwater, they used some kind of Jotun paint, breathing apparatus and the like to apply it.
Fantastic videos Stu, theres a wealth of knowledge watching and commenting on them.
Boats, gotta love em.
Cheers
Mal Qld
A little bit disappointing mate, but it was always going to be a gamble and at least most of it the hull seems good and you have the skills to sort out what isn't. From a very selfish point of view, it also means lots more great vids to come!
I think the reason they don't want steel boats worked on in a marina is the damage it causes to GRP. The dust settles very deep in GRP, stains it and is difficult to remove but sounds as if the marina should've made that a lot clearer.
Still, you could've pulled it out and got away with minimal repairs and been afloat within a week so I think it was worth trying and at least now you have a solid longer term plan and know what needs to be done.
Best of luck mate, looking forward to the updates. 35degC does sound a bit brutal, but it's 0degC here today, that also wouldn't be fun to be working on steel!
ha ha yer more vids is awesome!
I have a feeling if anyone can fix it its you
Thanks mate!
You can wire wheel stainless, just make sure that it's a new wheel. Same goes for all other cutting, grinding, sanding consumables, even hand held wire brushes, label everything you use on stainless with a nice big S/S and never use them on mild steel.
Best part about steel is its not that hard to repair mate. I'd rather have a rusty steel boat than a soft fibreglass boat or a rotten timber boat. Just take your time and slowly fix it up. Steel is also very easy to get in Australia, so it's not all that bad. I don't think it looks that bad either, but we will know more once it's been blasted
Bummer about the boat yard. Glad you have options!
i would have expected the yard to be more forthcoming about there work restrictions, a bit dishonest.
Just found your channel. Youve got a great personality and perspective. Keep up the great work. Its much appreciated. Cheers from Canada
How do you eat an elephant??? One bite at a time. Your project looks daunting but if you work your plan a step at a time you will grind (bad pun) through it.
One way to think about this, is that you've just saved others a bunch of time and money. I'll certainly remember your problem.
Great inspiration. I am in the trough of disillusionment with a boat I bought cheap in November. 17 ft with soft transom. I feel a bit of the slope of enlightnment after watching this :) I like your boat, great project, lots of potential.
I FEEL your pain! - Things must've changed a lot in the 20 years since I was a part-time shipwright...The yacht club on the Gold Coast use to always allow all work on the hardstands!
Wow this is cool love your new boat and can not wait for more videos thanks mate love your work 👍
Dangar Marine - If I can give you any advise at all it would be this. Since you are going to the trouble to pull the boat out of the water and are prepared to have it dry docked for a period of time. Take the time to get all your projects done which require the boat being out of the water or any project which is made substantially easier with the boat being out of water. Sit down and make a written list of items you are wanting to get accomplished and by order of priority. Treat each task as an independent project. List known items needed to get each project completed. Think about the work being done on the boat and how one project may coincide with one of your other projects you want done on the boat. IE. Like what you are doing to fix the rudder first prior to final paint.
Have you given any though to asking the person which has the sandblasting setup. If you could do the work yourself and save some monies. This all boils down to do you have more time than you do monies. The next issue is just how far do you intend to go with the sand blasting of your haul. Since you will have the boat dry docked and the space to work is rented. If it were me and I had the time and resources I would sandblast the entire haul. This would include the entire outside haul above and below water line. I would do the inside the gunwales and all the deck plates. Also at minimum the outside of the pilothouse. You might even want to think about doing the engine compartment if rust has been allowed to develop because of large amounts of water were allowed to enter into the bilge. To do this would require a lot of covering up of the diesel and transmission and other components. However it could save a lot of time in the long run.
i will definitely be writing up a bit of a project plan and showing that in a video soon. I would like to sandblast as much of the hull as possible but we'll see how much that is going to cost. As I will be taking the propshaft out anyway I am seriously thinking about lifting the engine out to do the bilge properly. I can even fit my hand under the engine as it is.
Stainless steel wire wheel for the rudder :)
It will look shiny again in no time. :)
because they are so inexpensive? what possible difference would a stainless wheel make?
@@wildkatsailing because if you use a regular steel wire wheel it impregnates the stainless with low nickel/chrome content steel which will begin to rust. This then spreads and soon your stainless steel rudder is rusting awsy merrily
Hi Stu. It doesn't look that bad, at least steel is easy to repair as you can weld. Good luck and keep up the great videos!
good thing you have all these youtubers donating you money
Hey mate just use a new wire wheel on that rudder or one that hasnt been used on mild steel or your rudder will be covered in surface rust.
Stu, if you had rolled up in that LandRover on my house, I'd happily hand carried the trawler onto my lawn, thrown you an extension cord and cracked a beer for you while wishing you "happy grinding" . Might seem like a mountain of work - it is the right decision anyhow. Really looking forward to seeing the progress.
Love your videos dangar! Could you do a video on how to read 2 stroke spark plugs? For if it’s too lean or too rich. And maybe a video about setting carburetor float height and air fuel mixture screw? Thanks mate. You’re an awesome teacher. Two thumbs up to the channel! Cheers!
I’m a machinist that works with a lot of metals. Stainless is always fine to be sandblasted, wire wheeled, whatever. The key is to use fresh wire wheels and or abrasive disks/pads. Used abrasives and wire wheels can embebed particles of ferrous metal in the grain of the stainless which will make it look like it’s rusting. I would use evaporust for rust treatment. Machining UA-cam swears by it. That product totally changed the whole restoration world.
Great videos man,owning a boat can be frustrating but it always pays off in the end
buy asteel boat better know a pipe fitter by trade they can weld mig, tig, gas welding and torching, including argon... welding and fabrication are their strong suit... etc they know how to fabricate carbon aluminum and stainless as well...The next craft to assist are electrician welders they are the most finicky about the smallest of details and their wiring knowledge makes them worth their weight in gold!
If you have to do replace some plate , so what steel is cheap if you can do the work. Go for it!
Sorry it's going to cost you so much, but this land-locked prairie boy from Western Canada finds this REALLY interesting! I want a ride when it's done!
The marina should have told you about the restrictions before you got there. Sounds like you got hustled. Good luck, steel boats are easy to fix if you know how to weld and fabricate. You'll be glad you bought it as time goes on. Have a great day.
this is an excellent & very informative series but I wish you'd wear some steel cap booots while fixing your steel bot mate.
I found your vids interesting, as live barely half a mile from the Thames river and enjoy watching boats go past by , but, it took some searching to get to what I presume part2 since you acquired the rusty old girl. Do you mind heading your vids in sequence pt1,2,3 etc in future please! Thank you. Best wishes from the UK
I'm in your boat with sequencing R S, great way to archive and reference!!
Thank you so much Stu for what you do . And taking us on the journey of your projects . I really wish I was closer to you to learn half of what you know.. 100% true fan from North Carolina USA ... 👍👍👍👍
You did great good buy great boat i have seen hell of allot worse good luck its worth every penney
That's going to be a nice boat when you get it finished.
James here from the U.S. great video. We live here on the Texas gulf coast and boating is a part of life. Really enjoying your videos. Thanks
Looks like a shore power isolator, keeps, the electricity from eating your steel hull, while enjoying the luxuries of home, when tied to the dock.
We used a stuff called RX 60 to clean all the stainless steel tanks and products we use to weld up. Should do the job but not 100% if they still make it and also there is a stainless steel pickling paste that will get it of to👍
Your videos helped me get a $400 project boat up and running. From nearly trash to family friendly. It’s a 17’ runabout from 1978 or 1973 with a 1973 Johnson 115. She’s not pretty but a blast on the weekends! I’ll gladly join your patreon to see this come together! Great vids as always!
Nice work Jon, glad to hear you are enjoying your time on the water and thank your for becoming a Patron! :)
way to go, cool dawg
You'll be ok that doesnt seem to bad at all, and you will know every nook and cranny after it all.
Shame about the marina, a lot of them are close to rip-offs I reckon.
Sand blast is a first class way to go, then go over it with a chipping hammer to pop the holes and thin bits. Circle them with a sharpie when you find them.
Im hoping the bottom plate is better than 3/16", this because plate is different to sheet which tends to not be available over 1/8".
You can do this in a month, no problem
have a good one ...
Hi love everything to do with boats and engine's welding, just found this channel subbed looking forward to next vid ATB
Boat Yard should have been *fully transparent* on the initial inquiry IMHO
Interesting seeing your thought process evolve as you find out more information
Got some work ahead of you mate! Luckily your a master boat mechanic, you will be fine.
Good on ya stu she’ll be right and well worth it once it’s finished I know the feeling when you get to look at something and it does look worse than what it is can be quite the downer! But no doubt you’ll get it sorted will be watching this one closely like always all the best mate!
Cant work on a boat in a boat yard that is there only to work on boats. That sucks
Hi Stu. Love your vids. I'm a stainless fabricator and we use a mob called Metaglo for electropolishing and passivating stainless. They are at Hornsby so not too far from you and may be worth a call in regards to your rudder. I have a 96 Stedjcraft with the same vintage mercury blackmax 150. It punched a hole thru the block 18 months ago while we were holidaying down the coast and I thought it was finished but a marine mechanic in Ulladulla had a 135 blackmax in his shop with other issues but the powerhead had just been rebuilt and he got it back together for me for a very reasonable price. He advised me to reduce the prop from 21" to 19" and it has been going great since. Thanks again for your addictive vids. I've learned a lot. Mark.
Hey Mark, thanks for the tip. Always great to find out about local companies. :)
How are you making money while working on these expensive personal projects? Do you have other mechanics working in your shop? Do you have enough savings? I'm fascinated by every detail of these projects you share with us, but I am worried about you. Stay financially well.
Hey Bruce. All my money is coming from the UA-cam channel at the moment which means advertising, sponsorship and Patreon donations. It's a real double edged sword as I am very fortunately to be doing what I love, but at the same time it is a very tough gig in many way. Thanks for your concern. :)
Ahh 471 If there’s no oil under them there’s no oil in em. I’m tackling the same on a 32x10 ft. wood over fiberglass vessel Built in 1971. I couldn’t make videos tho cause they would be rated R due to the cursing. Can’t wait to see when u address the engine. Great motor I’ll be tearing mine down in a few weeks. Good luck to u Capt.
Hey mate. Here is the video of taking the engine out ua-cam.com/video/ham_QisrLn8/v-deo.html I wish I knew more about these engines because I'd love to give it a good once over before putting it back in.
I have a DD 671 on my boat and think they are awesome. Cummins are for low class citizens( just kidding). Starting up steel boat project again, any advice on what to start. I like your methods of getting things done. Boat has never been in salt water.
They are awesome, nothing wrong with a bit of friendly rivalry though. :) This is a video I did on tips for boat projects ua-cam.com/video/y7YtYoe1C1A/v-deo.html
Contemplating a similar project. Thank you very much for clear discussion and good shots. Liked and subbed!
What is wrong with some deck shoes and eye protection? Not a nanny, just really curious about the young people.
Good luck with your project, they can be a lot of work but worth it in the end.
That boat is totally worth it. 7k to buy. I’ll say 2k for marina and crane. Another 1k fir sand blast and sheet metal. 2k for paint and epoxy. So for 12 K you’ve got a really strong hull. If the engine is good. ( That’s the biggie). You’ve got a great boat. Just keep checking those sinks. Because where ever there’s a marina with shore power. You’ve got electrolysis. I’d weld sinks on rudder and all over the hull
I too think it is worth putting the effort into. Will definitely be putting enough good anodes on the hull and rudder before it goes back in the water.
screw the marina just do your repairs anyway what are they gonna do lol
You've been around boats long enough to know the acronym B.O.A.T...! I think you've a great investment there, a bit of up front cost and effort will go a long way! But there's why a layperson shouldn't by a steel boat, cost of a welder would be crippling if you couldn't do it yourself.
Yes, it will take a bit of cash to get up and running, but I'm happy it isn't over capitalising. Fortunately I've got a couple of welders and a plasma cutter so that's a good start but every job you do needs new tools. Damn! ;)
I was watching a guy with a steel yacht, the whole hull had 3 or 4 coats of epoxy over the steel to protect it,might be an expensive/inexpensive option?????
I have worked on several small tugs and barges on slipways and on hardstands, all steel hulls. Sandblast, grinding, weld and patch rust holes etc.it all takes time and its messy. As you have been told, yours looks reasonable, myself I have worked on a lot worse and have watched insurance inspectors pass quite a few hulls that I would not take further than the jetty. You will be surprised once the lower part of the hull has been blasted and repaired, it will look much better. The very best of luck Stu if I lived a lot closer I would give you a hand with the welding etc. Will watch your progress with keen interest.
Thanks mate. I'm certainly looking forward to the day when it has been blasted and that first coat of primer is on. A lot of hard work before then though!
WoW , you have a big job ahead of you. I have a friend who owns a early 60 model 36 ft Chris Craft Roamer, its a steel hull also.. About 20 years ago he decided to rebuild and restore everything... It turned out to be a 3 yr project. He did a great job... One thing he did I have never seen anyone else do is paint the bottom up to the water line using Rhino Hide , you know the stuff they use to line truck beds , the spray on , black....It is as good today as it was the day he put it on....Amazing.... Keep in mind the boat is kept in fresh water, never been in the salt..... Keep those videos coming , Thanks
Hey mate. Interesting. A few people have mentioned truck bed paint, but mostly in the context of the top deck.
Well...you had a look of despair there for a while, and i offer an alternate comparison for that trough of disillusionment. That curve is entirely based on how you approach it, I'd argue that you've been on a slope of enlightenment from the start, from the minute you picked that little darling up! You might have had some inflated hopes, but you're headed right into productivity! This is a worthwhile project and will be well worth the effort. Power of positive thought baby...it's real!!
For sure positivity is an essential ingredient on a project like this. Every problem has a solution and there is lots of fun to be had along the way. :)
After finishing the abrasive Blast Cleaning you really need to remove traces of Salt before starting the Primer coat, this is very important on a Steel Hull, there are propriety products for removing Salt, also try to get the Primer applied as quickly as possible . I like the video, good job so far and if you decide to use Stainless Steel on the Hull underwater then you really need to use a good quality steel, forget 304, go for 316 as a minimum and don't forget to attach plenty of sacrificial anodes !!
Yep, this is all pretty much my plan now. I'm glad it is becoming clearer in my mind what needs to be done.
I made some brass intake fittings for my dad's old oak wood boat when I was working at my brother's sheetmetal shop one summer. We ended up putting .3 mm thick copper over most of his hull when he figured that he had two sons to help him install the copper. That thickness .015 copper was cheaper than two pullouts and anti-fouling paint
Copper sheeting is a great antifoul. From my understanding it was one of the earliest techniques used on boats.
At first I didn't think your video would be interesting (I don't have a boat) but I was wrong. I used to restore cars for a living, so I'm familiar with your situation and thought processes. You do the boat the right and you be served by it for years to come. If you cut corners you will eventually regret it. Push on!
Thanks Richard. I had the boat on the hard stand for eight months in the end, just got it floating again now waiting for the engine to get back from being rebuilt.
There is never anything simple or inexpensive with a older boat, you have the right attitude and will get it done. Remember, write out a realistic plan that is prioritized and have at it....this will always keep you in perspective when dealing with a time frame, you'll have easy days and super long days but, you will always know where you stand at the end of the day....time management. good luck
Definitely going to get that plan written out soon. If I run out of money or time I want to know the most important things are done and that the remaining things can wait until next years slipping.
There was a steel hull next to us on the hard. He did some cleaning, added some metal patches, some paint, and looked good as new!
Boats and maintance usually don't mix, at least in a vast majority of people's minds that's the case.
I have a old boat production boat, and was a member of a fourm. I bring it up cause the members all had the same model old boat and politely asked me to stop bringing up maintance topics. They all thought I was crazy maintaining a 40 year old boat. And they generally felt a 40 year old sailboat didn't need much attention Not wanting to debate, I moved on. My step father worked in a Marina. I remember helping some days. Maintenance wasn't on anyone's mind unless it was a live aboard or a serious boater. Everyone else owns a boat cause the idea of one is cool. But they rarely use it. Glad your going to get it done right. When I saw the video with engine idle issues. I knew the last thing the previous owner would pay for was a routine haul out inspection maintance interval. In the end you'll have a boat you can trust cause you crawled over every inch
It always amazes me how little interest people have in maintaining their own boats. I think it is half the fun of owning a boat. Sure, it's great to get out on the water, but I'd hate to leave all the work to someone else.
Loving following your adventure with the boat. Great to see the area again too. Brilliant.
hmmm, I know nothing about boats,, but these vids are really interesting,,, just binged watched 3
Glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
G'day Stu I don't know who was more disappointed you or me the whole thing was a bastered. But it turned out ok in the end and it's a great idea in getting the hull sand blasted that will really clean it up, it is remarkable how the sea water effects it I remember when you did the prop and rudder certainly looks different now. But try not to be so hard on yourself you've done a fantastic job on the old girl and you can see work you put into it. And the hull will come alright. Kind regards John stay safe and well. PS the thumbs obviously working ok
Thanks John!
You’ll get to the finish line with it Stu. And she will be one hell of a nice vessel when done. I know you have a bunch of unglamorous work to do below the waterline. But I know if anyone can get it done, and get it done properly...it’s you Stu!
Thanks Jack. I'm feeling much more comfortable now it is somewhere I can work on it for a month or so. Time to get cracking! :)
The boat tech is cool- the life lessons are golden. To 'dyed in the wool' boat nuts, these videos are mesmerizing. btw, I've got a theory that the reason you are good at making these videos is that you talk to yourself all the time anyway. (I can relate) Good luck
You've got me there. It is just a matter of turning the camera on and thinking out loud. :)
That's a great project a great boat and a great price
Well, I asked about the rust ... and you showed plenty of that! But cheer up mate, like they have been telling you ... it isn't that bad. You want to see a hull that is bad, and I mean waaaay down in that trough, check out a fiberglass sailboat with huge hull blisters. I have restored several FG boats and that particular one was so nasty the surveyor said it was nearly a write off. Oh well, it was a friends boat but I felt his pain like I feel yours. Boating life is an adventure ... keep us in the picture please.
Thanks mate. Will definitely film the whole process.
Hey Stu, not your fault about the yard brother, they should o f been more clear about what's a do and a don't way before you got her on the slip mate. But not to worry as you said you are sorted for a spot now sp onward and upward for her getting fixed up. I know it may seem overwhelming right now but from this angle she seems to be more solid than not. She will come up great with a sand or soda blast. As soon as you see her blasted you will be alot more relieved i bet. Nothing you can't handle mate, we believe in you so just go for it. Can't wait to see the crane video. Take care Stu.
Thanks Benny. One step at a time and she'll get there! :)
Boat yards are a learning curve. Gin palaces go with Gin Palaces work boats need a working yard... one with some muck and rubbish and slightly untidy. These ones know what work and dirt is. Now you are over the grumpy of the first look below the water you know what is there and what needs to be done. You have seen the problems and now can plan what to do. I do like the look of her and can see her suiting you and your work/ fun you will have. A work boat to work with.
Work on a hard standing takes time but only half the time if you were on the water. Do as much as you can in the time you are allowed. Make a list, and keep it up to date, marked the list......Must... Need...Want... Nice to do....when out the water. Then focus on the list in that order, other considerations like of time and cash have not taken in to account. Moral support from us lot here will help when the bad day or ( Oh F*&^@@!) days happen.... always remember go home and take the dog for a walk he wont know the problems but will snuggle into you and be glad to see you. Moral support from me and many of the guys here. Right guys.....Amacf
Thanks mate. All the moral support has actually meant a lot to me. Glad I've now found a yard will of other junk that much more suits my style. ;)
DO NOT forget your Zincs i did not see any on the hull
I learned long ago, that when you are getting involved with other people, laying ALL your cards on the table is a must. Telling the marina people Everything you plan on or think you will be doing gives them All the information they need to make a decision. Asking every question you can think of about their marina will also fill in the blanks. You know want they say about "Assuming".
Yes, I do agree. You need to ask a lot more questions up front. Next time I'll know!
The hardest part of working on a large boat is where to do it, with water, power, and a bathroom. Is this boat rebuild for profit or do you also have to work at your shop? Can a senior mechanic like yourself interest free/cheap help looking to learn?
Hey Bruce. I'll still be working at the workshop during the week but I'll have afternoons and weekends to get into this.
This is gonna be very interesting (for me anyway). I'm looking forward to see the progress. Thanks for sharing this project with the rest of us.
Have you a PayPal account? I'd like to make a one time payment to help with the sand blasting.
Go to Stu's channel page ( ua-cam.com/channels/BsXuIe0nBO3Bi2JmtVk1ZQ.html ). Look for the PayPal icon just to the left of where it says "Donate" on the top banner pic.
keep at it stu and t try not to eat to many of robs oysters ,he supplied our fishing club at xmas with 15 doz .they are the best cheersdunc
You can never eat too many! ;)
Good luck. Hopefully u will get lots of views.
Don't worry. I have watched future video's and everything turns out fine.
Phew! :)
Just a note on the paddle wheel speedo - the boat speed from this is useful to compare to your GPS speed to work out the water current speed.
Good point, may be worth keeping then. You can't have too much info, and lets be honest, it's less work to keep it. :)
Get plenty of anodes on her especially around the rudder and propeller. Make sure the shaft is grounded to the hull as well.
For sure, will definitely be determining the right amount of zinc for this boat.
Shame about the marina, especially considering that they'd well and truly know you and your show. You'd think a little "yeah no worries mate" would have been said.
Excited to continue watching It evolve, as previously mentioned you're the right bloke for the job.
I am so proud of you mate. It is hard to know when learning a new gig. The money spent gave u conference
Thanks Joe! :)
You have to replace that stern gland and maybe the shaft bearings any way and that’s a long job so with the rudder and anode issues you needed the hard anyway. Better to go slow and proper than rush it, it’s worth it in the end as you have been told mate already.
I had a a ferro hull and they suffer with much the same corrosion issues as steel, We had to replace stern gland and prop and through hulls ,replaced them with plastic ones all because the anodes did not work but we I epoxy coated once all the work was done and never looked back,
Plan on getting some bulk mig spools !
Normally rudders are not treated or painted. The wash from the prop Will often knock off the paint. Just clean it and leave it blank. Anddd Nice project. Good luck!
Stu, you got an army of Locals, Sydneysiders, central coasties and those not to far away you can call on.
Thanks mate!
She's a good looking boat Stu.Just think,in 2 years you'll be sitting around sipping martinis with some of those beautiful Aussie women aboard. Just FYI it snowed last night here in Detroit... it's 6 degrees F with a windchill of -1.
Ok i just upped my Patron support to help put a smile on your face. Great work Stu!
Thanks mate. Name in the credits at that value! :)
@@DangarMarine Executive producer!!!!!! What should I wear and do you mind if I'm an hour late tomorrow? Hey all good. I'm really happy to support you. Do me a favour will you and email my misses and tell her there is nothing wrong with a dangar marine t-shirt being my favourite!!!!!
Happy to see you have a solid plan. Getting the hull strong & water tight is the smart way to go. Boat Yards are money pits, I know this from personal dealings. Stay thinking positive, from what is visible your boat is repairable. GOOD LUCK ‼️👍🔥 Vinny 🇺🇸
Would have been nice to have the rules on paper and handed to new comers for the boat yard. Education is expensive. 14:09 Good Eddie !!!!. Thanks Stu for D video.
Too noisy for neighborhood? I have used 3 or 4 of fiberglass duct board before for noise reduction. You canto surround the area while using your needle gun to remove paint and rust.
She looks fine, just a load of grinding and some anti-fowl, the rest is run of the mill maintenance, dam good find really. Find a good yard, maybe a low loader to move the boat, sand blast everything, stainless is fine, copper paint the bottom.
Stainless is fairly forgiving to wire brushing but I'd consider passivating it once down to bare metal as that will pretty much ensure no corrosion.