One of the best hacks I got from you was the heat shrink maybe a year ago saves so much time not having to clean the eye tie. Thanks for sharing this video Adam
Another incredible and informative video !!! We are so grateful that you are willing to share these step by step instructional videos with us. SDG - Glory to God alone.
Best video i have ever seen .. DUDE YOU ROCK !! If I pull the trigger and get into making jigs I'm deff going to set things up like your ,, love the detail and clean set up
If you have a bench grinder, put a fine brass wire wheel on it and you will find that it will clean the eye hole out and leave it nice and smooth. Plus it will only take about 8 to 10 seconds or less to get the job done.
Very helpful, Adam. Your "nerd outs" were esp useful as, after, all, it takes a special mindset to get into this at our level! :) Found out I've been putting the shrink tube on too early too! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure Rod! I appreciate the chance to get a little more technical from time to time… even if it’s just a theory. Glad I’ve got some guys out there, like yourself, that dig the details!
@@rodolfochfend great question Rodolfo! The temp would have to be high enough to turn the hooks red… 800-900+ degrees… for the hooks to be negatively impacted by the oven. Powder paint cures at a min temp of 275 (so says Pro Tec when I called them to ask) and cures best around 325/350. Too much hotter and the paint melts and starts to sag/drip. Hope this helps!!
Never tried fluidity but can only imagine! One of my tricks for accent colors is using a beauty brush from above tapping with a finger letting it rain onto the jig. I like using fingers for adding a blotched top color.
Another great video!! I really enjoy the in-depth process of each stage of jig making!! Thanks Adam for going through the each step with explanation of why you do it that way!! Maybe soon you can do another video on pouring jigs using different hooks and how you make them fit the molds!! I watched your previous video on it but would love to see another!! Thanks again Adam for another great video!!!
Glad you enjoyed it James!! Regarding the lead side, you’ll have to help me understand the question/idea… maybe shoot me an email. It’s early, so maybe I’m missing something :), but the hook either fits or doesn’t, LOL! Lemme know what you have in mind and I’ll see what I can do!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft In the video, if I remember right, you customized the mold to fit hooks that were different than what Do It molds recommended. Maybe using a circle hook instead of a straight shank hook. I think you put the hook in the mold and tapped it with a mallet to get to set flush, also you used a high heat silicone to fill in the collars to customize the jigs. This is more helpful for crappie jigs than some of the bass jig molds. I really enjoy all your videos especially the crappie jigs since I crappie and trout fish more than bass. I’ve learned more from you, Small Jaw and Eric Gilley than anyone else. Thanks Adam for all the time and effort to put in the videos, they’ve been both educational and enjoyable!!
@@jamesphillips2216 aaahhh, ok, now I follow. Yeah, the mallet was modifying the mold to take a spinnerbait wire. I have yet to modify a mold to take a different hook itself. The high heat stuff is great when you want to block out part of the mold… usually wire keeper slots etc. I’ve considered trying to make a mold more versatile by drilling out the space for the eye (so you can use flat eye or vertical) but never tried it. I need to get a used mold off Facebook sometime to experiment so I’m not risking $40-50!!
Good job homie. The hidden hook eye is the only one I leave the powder coat in. I just shoot a round toothpick thru it right after dipping it to open the hole. So far it has not bit me. My heat gun must not run as hot as yours (mine is old) cuz I have to heat em for about 30 seconds. Your clumpy GP....my brown does the same. I think some color batches must be thicker at times because my GP is one of the easier ones for me. I like seeing how you do your stuff and I use some of the methods you have on your teaching vids....fluid bed making, shrink tubing, the rack for putting into the oven....thanks a ton. You a good man Charlie Brown.
I found that when I use heat shrink over the hook eye that the top of the heat shrink does not close completely and when dipping the jig head into the fluid bed, powder gets in and migrates down and gets on the hook eye. To solve this I took an extra step and cut some weed trimmer line into small pieces and insert it into the top of the shrink tubing. It snugs up tight and closes the hole and solved the problem. Adam, I've learned so much from you. Thank you!
Yup, thanks for the comment Rizzo! I’ve noticed that too. I used to pinch it shut right before dipping, but that would sometimes fail. So, I figured a little paint just on the top wasn’t hurting anything and let it go :). Sometimes I’ll still scrape it off if it’s white and more noticeable. Good idea in the trimmer line, smart thinking!
Wow! Wish I’d seen this bout a week ago before I jumped in head first! Woulda saved u answering a lot of questions from me too!! 😂 I’ve watched at dozens of vids over the last week on jig painting and fluid bed construction… gotta say ur tutorials are absolutely hands down the best and most informative. 👏🏻👏🏻 BTW… GP/Copper for the win!! 🏆
LOL, timing just happened that way since I just got a bunch of new paints, go figure! It was probably good actually… helped me remember some stuff and ensure I got it into the video! Thanks also for the kind words man, really appreciate it! Btw… I think the original fluid bed design assumed the top and bottom of the powder cup would com off the bed when swapping colors… hence the bottom coupler. I probably assume I had to have a top and bottom in order for the filter to stay put… only to find out the top coupler and PVC were sufficient AND the unit more naturally separates there. Live and learn! (GP/Copper…🔥🔥)
Great video! Thank you for the shrink tubing idea. I have been using small bits of painters tape to cover the eyes and it works pretty well but, the shrink tubing will be much faster and easier.
I've never understood why people dont want to get paint on the line tie. I paint mine all the time i use a paperclip & run it through the eyelit as soon as i pull it out of fluid bed.Not saying SDG or anyone is doing it wrong by using heat shrink i just personally think looks better painted.
@@LTOutdoors It's important that the eye of the hook has no jagged edges or abrasions that will damage the line. Cured powder paint can have tiny sharp edges. Keeping the paint out is just another step in reducing break offs.
Great video and have been wanting to get into painting jig heads but still not sure I am ready for the jig molds and lead pot. I am not sure I need enough jig heads to warrant the molds and pot. Keep up the great work on ideas and videos.
Thanks Jimmie! Glad you liked the video! There’s definitely a freedom that comes with the ability to make whatever you need just the way you like it. Shoot… even just s small HotPot (where I started) and a ladle… pick a few molds you would use a bunch… maybe $200-250 and you’d set for a long time. Be warned though… once you get a taste there’s no going back!! LOL
Great stuff, Adam. I own a lure manufacturing company in Thailand. I'm interested in doing this on a more industrial scale but I'm having a hard time finding info on doing jig heads in large volumes.
Thanks John, I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately I do not have the “scaling” info you’re after. It would be a challenge to incorporate some of the techniques shown in this video at scale… not really realistic, but who knows, there’s some brilliant engineers out there that could probably develop something! :)
The reason you are getting voids on the bottom of your jigs is because the air pressure is to high. The powder should look fluid, not like boiling water. The voids are air pockets. Simple test - turn off the air right before dipping. (Your powder will still be fluffed up) Another tip add some clear powder paint to your green pumpkin powder it will flow a lot better. Keep the videos coming.
Man I love your shop !!! OCD recognize OCD lol 😂 . I've been using aluminum foil for my hook eyes . I got a set of finesse screwdrivers and I cut 1 inch by 1-in pieces of aluminum foil and wrap around the shaft of the screwdriver - size based off of the hook of course . Pull it off of the screwdriver and slide it onto the hook eye . And then use my pliers to flatten the aluminum foil on both sides of the hook eye and then trim with scissors. It stays on while I have the jig in front of the heat gun and while in the powder paint . I let it cool and use the same pliers to pull the aluminum foil off . That way there is never any abrasions inside the line tie or paint in a hook eye . # Nicest shop on UA-cam by far
Neat-freaks unite! Cool idea with the foil! I could tell you did something when I went through your baits. Nice nice! Appreciate the shop props as well! It is my happy place!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft For sure !!! Yeah the foil is low tech but it works well . It's kinda redundant but if you precut all your pieces , it helps time wise . On my football jigs that have a recessed line tie , I'll slide a rolled up piece of foil through the the hook eye and then pinch it together . It helps as well .
@@joshwhite8055 good call. I’m looking at a different football head mold (non-recessed) to avoid the issue, but also because it takes both flat and vertical eye hooks (cool to have the option) and the cavities go down to 1/8 (I can only get down to 1/4 today). Versatility, clean eyes, and smaller size option… win win win!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft definitely !! We throw a finesse football jig around here quite a bit in the spring and the fall especially on bluff walls 1/8 can come in handy . I can see one in all black with a black drop shot leech as a trailer
Thanks Michael! I do have a couple videos on the channel that include my work at the vice. They may not be as step-by-step as you're looking for though. I'd recommend checking out Dan on his Smalljaw channel - he ties jigs almost exclusively.
Excellent video for me just setting up to do 1/8, 3/16 & 1/4 hair jigs for smallmouth. You're my main tutorial for the powder painting, and just got done cutting up my 3/32 shrink tubing ! Thanks! My heat gun has a 750 and 1000 degree settings - would you use the hotter setting for these size jigs, and just experiment 3-6 seconds? I see you're using the curved hemostat pliers. Do you prefer them to the straight and is 5.5" a good size (never used a heat gun before - don't want to melt the flesh off my bones)! I appreciate your sharing, all you've figured out over time, including how to keep them eyes clean rather than figuring out how to get the paint out once you've got them clogged!! I'm starting out with just black for starters, so that'll be easy.
Hey Bruce, awesome to hear about you getting into lurecraft! Thanks also for the kind, encouraging words man, very cool! Re: the heat gun, I crank it up… if anything it’s just a little less time in front of the heat. I’ve only gotten myself in “melting trouble” (jig head, not my flesh thankfully! LOL) when using a torch (my gun died and my replacement hadn’t arrived yet). That small, 3-5 sec should be plenty, yup! I do like the curved hemostats but have both. The curved makes it a little more “natural” to dip the head once hot (at least in my experience) but I’m convinced you get used to whatever you use. Had I started out with a straight shank I may (probably would!) prefer it today. Happy to help however I can man, especially if it’s saving fellow bait makers some time, trouble, and frustration!
Thanks Thomas, glad it was helpful to you. Nothing fancy on the heat shrink removal, just a pair of pliers and she pulls right off. Anymore, I do it right away while the tubing is still “soft”, seems to be a bit easier than waiting until the head cools and the tubing hardens. Thanks again for the comment!
Hey Ed, thanks for the question. Simple answer is, absolutely! :) Take a look through the other videos on the channel - anything jig-related (silicon, rubber, natural material like bucktail or fur) was tied at the vise with thread - lots of tutorials and demos for you to choose from. Thanks!!
Excellent video. My black and blue flake turned out great. But once I cured it in my toaster oven the glitter lost its luster… I’m guessing it’s too hot in there?
Good chance, yeah. Flake of any kind can be heat sensitive and dull out with over-exposure. I have a video in the “Shop” playlist that covers “Calibrating your toaster oven” as that dial is a liar, LOL! They often run hotter than advertised, so you need to pull it down a bit. I encourage you to check it out and any of the others in that playlist, might find some other nuggets to enjoy. Thanks for the kind words, glad you liked the video!
I'm not getting any work done today as I'm watching all your videos! Do you have another video that goes over your "final" fluid bed setup? The one I'm watching now appears to be your first crack at it. Also not sure why you have that additional coupler on the bottom. Thanks!!!!
Thank you for taking the time to explain your methods and tips! You answered almost all my questions in this video. I am working on building a fluid bed like yours. Where did you find those plastic caps that you put on the tops of the 2 inch PVC? Thanks for your time!
I just did my first Pro-Tec powder paint on jig heads. Do recommend or is it customary to put some type of clear top coat on the jig heads. If so, is it a liquid or powder product that is used. Thanks for helping a newbie! ( or oldie, I made and tied jigs when I was about 12. My dad sold them for a dollar each.)
Congrats on the paint jobs! No need for a clear unless you want it for some reason. As long as you cure them in a dedicated over (toaster oven most commonly) at the right temp for the right amount of time, you should be good to go!
Thanks for the question! I usually dip the head twice, back to back, no heat between dips. If I’m applying a second color I can usually do so without heat between, but there are times it needs a bit. If more heat is required it’s not a problem, just takes a lot less time on the heat gun to get it back up to temp. Hope this helps and I was tracking with your question!
Thanks for the question! On a 2-color head I’m dipping the base color then usually dusting on a second color via a chip brush or something similar. That second color is right away, which the head is still hot. It could require some extra heat but, generally speaking, if the head is hot enough for the are coat and you move fairly quickly, no reheat is needed. Once complete, then the cure.
¡Me alegra que hayas disfrutado del video! No vendo estas cabezas de plantilla, pero puedes comprar el molde y la pintura de Barlow's Tackle y hacer la tuya propia. Los enlaces a esos productos se encuentran en la descripción del video. ¡Gracias!
If I understand your question, I cut a 5” piece in half, so 2.5” from the 1” PVC manifold to the valve, then 2.5 again to the cup. But that was relative to my size board (10” wide) and each piece of tubing extended into the cup and manifold a bit. Hope that helps!
Great vid ! Subscribed ! I've been using heat shrink for awhile also but I find if I wait until the jighead cools it can be difficult to remove it,just curious as to how you remove your heat shrink ? Do you just pull it off by hand ? Or ?
Thanks Daniel! Heat shrink is awesome. I pull it off with a pair of pliers just before I hang it up to cool. It can be a little more difficult if you wait too long, but either way, it’s doable, so long as you don’t leave it on in the oven! Hope this helps man!
Thanks for you helpful job! Where i am living i cant find powder Paint brand as protec, import It through Amazon, eBay Is to expensive. Therefore could you please explain which kind of Paint Is Need for heat apply as you show? Any powder coat as Mica resin based Paint or powder coat Paint for car goes or i Need a specific kind of powder Paint? Thanks so much for your help
Hey Luca, glad this was helpful. Unfortunately the powder does need to be of a certain heat-cured, powder coat type that will melt into the jig head then harden when cured in the oven. Mica powders and such will not to that. Your best bet may be airbrushing or even spray painting the heads then using an epoxy to finish them and protect the paint. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tips. I just started up powder coating and have some questions that I'd appreciate your insight to. I notice if the jigs heads get too hot the amount of powder that sticks to them gets a little thick and the colors end up darker than I would like. I'm using a small propane torch to heat and will switch to a heat gun to control temp better. Is there a magic temperature that would give you a light coating so you can control the final color on the jig better?
Great question Tom, and thanks for the kind words. While temperature of the head does play a role, I don’t think it’s a main driver. Moving to a heat gun should help, and is certainly more forgiving, but the bigger issue is more likely related to how you dip the head and how long it’s in the powder when dipping. If you’re not using a fluid bed you’re “pressing” the head into the powder in order to submerge it for coverage. That added pressure will always force a thicker coating. A fluid bed removes all pressure as your dipping into suspended paint. If you ARE dipping into a fluid bed, the length of time the head is under the paint will make a difference. The faster in-and-out you go, the thinner, more transparent the coating - so try dipping faster. All that said… there are just some paints that coat thick regardless of temperature and speed. And likewise, I have paints that always require 2 dips if I want a deeper/richer color, no matter how long that first dip lasts! So, don’t discount the impact of different paints. I hope this has been helpful!
Really enjoyed the video! First one of yours I've watched and going to check out your others. One question...who is the guitar player in the music track? Great player and I'd like to check them out...thanks!
Hey Bill, glad you liked the video! Hopefully you find some other stuff on the channel that peaks your interest. If you'd like to see more shop-focused stuff, there's a whole "Shop" playlist as well as a 12 week series I pulled together about a year ago called Wednesdays in the Workshop. Otherwise, lots a lure builds to choose from! Thanks the support! And the guitar player is a guy I found via Epidemic Sound: Sture Zetterberg. Thx again!
I have watched several of your videos and tried powder coating this morning and the paper bags cutout do not distribute the air evenly. Air flow is only around the edges.
Hey Dan, thanks for the support! I have two thoughts, maybe they will be helpful (I hope so!). 1). Make sure you’re using a thin brown bag. The thicker brown bags used for groceries back in the day are much thicker and wouldn’t allow for the proper air flow. 2). Assuming a thin filter, around the edges usually mean the air flow is too weak. That may be because of a leak somewhere in the system or due to an under-powered pump. I ran into this when using a small $12 pump from Walmart ages ago… especially when I attempted to “T” the air and run multiples. The pump I use is a 50-160 gallon variable speed pump… really pushes the air. Also note, some paints are far heavier than others and can be problematic (causing the volcanoing along the edges). Again, more air pressure is needed, and stiring while the bed gets going tends to help. Hopefully there’s something here to make things better for ya! If nothing else, you can always try a different filter! I tried almost all of them and landed on the ‘ol “lunch bag”, but to each his own!
Nice video! Still I'm not able to find "Glow in the dark" powder paint. I only find glow in the dark powder which is suppost to mix with a glue or a fluid. Anyone have any suggestions where to find glow in the dark powder paint?
Thanks Jonas! While I’ve never used them, I believe Barlows carry’s glow powder paints that are applied the same way (heat, dip, etc). But again, I’ve not tried them so I don’t have any experience with them to know for sure.
Great video. I'm new to your channel. I have been making my own jigs for years. I use powder paints for my bullet weights only. I use vinyl paints for my igs. I put a clear coat of epoxy, mixed with some sort of glitter (fuschia or red). In your opinion, what are the benefits of powder paints over the vinyl with a top coat of poxy? Thanks!
Hey Rick, thanks for the feedback and I’m glad you found me! Since I’ve never painted jigs the other way I’m no authority to speak about the difference, but one benefit I would GUESS is turn-around time. I know epoxy takes time to cure whereas I can get an unpainted jig head ready for the vise in about 30-45 min. But like I said, that’s just a guess. Epoxy may be a bit more durable, but I’d have to test it to be sure. Thanks again man!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft I love how the finish of the powder paint over vinyl. However, the vinyl allows me to carefully "paint" around the hook eyes. Both Janns Netcraft and Barlow pro-staff say the powder paint is more durable than vinyl. However, the epoxy finish on vinyl is pretty close to the chip resistance of the baked powder finish. Great videos and I'm glad I found another lure-making geek like myself!
@@1MoreFish Heck yeah man! Check out my “Wednesday in the Workshop” playlist, lots of good stuff in there related to jig painting and general tips/tricks in the shop. I have a dedicated video about how to keep paint out of the hook eye, a topic I touched on in this video.
Sorry if this has been asked before but where do you get the jig head with the hole in it for the weed guard? Are they sold commercially or do you make your own? Thanks
I make all my own. Do-It makes the molds. I melt and pour the lead into the molds and prep the heads before painting. They are sold commercially though - a number of online retailers offer “unpainted heads”.
@@SDGCustomLurecraft I called CS paints, the manufacturer of Pro-tec and they told me that you can paint tungsten it just needs to be heated at a higher heat.
Hey Dave, not a stupid question at all, thanks for asking. First off, you don’t NEED a fluid bed to paint jig heads, you just miss out on the benefits it offers if you don’t use one. What are the benefits? The addition of air to the paint allows you to dip it and get a very even, thin coating. Powder paint can be brittle when over-applied… and when dipping into the jar directly, the “bottom” of the jig that is pressed into the paint to “sink” the head all the way (for full coverage) can melt too much paint as it’s pushed down… that extra can sag and cause any number of issues for you. A fluid bed really helps you avoid that problem!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have an idea for something similar. Perhaps in the future I will build it to many other projects going on right now.
@@ocgoodman3260 the walleye jig itself doesn’t go that high but the bigger Tear Drop may work for you… it goes beyond 1oz and has a recessed eye. Here’s a link: barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Teardrop-Jig-Mold-with-Wire-Keeper-P3287/?afmc=17d
Hey Alan, thanks for the question! That’s certainly an option, but it takes a LOT longer for the heads to heat up via an oven, and in my experience, they don’t get AS hot as the heat gun can accomplish so the paint doesn’t want to melt as well. There’s other limitation I found when I tried it that I’ll spare you of, but suffice to say for me… it ended up being faster and more efficient to use the heat gun, head by head. Hope this helps!
Definitely an option! When I've done similar things and go to remove it I either get a stringy mess as the powder paint is still soft and pulls, or, I wait until it hardens and I get sharp edges (not so hot for the line). And, if I recall, it often refills while in the oven curing since there was paint on the eye to begin with. But who knows, maybe I did something off kilter and it works great for other guys, LOL! Thanks for the suggestion all the same!
Take a 90 degree pliers and grab hook eye and dip in paint! No paint gets in hook eye! If paint gets on players just bang it on back of a other pair of plyers!
Hey Michael, thanks for the comment! Yup, I've heard that many times before - a very popular approach indeed! I've tried it a number of times and it wasn't for me. The paint always found a way into the eye or I got paint on the plyers making a mess to clean up that took longer than the heat shrink, LOL. BUT, to each his own!! Thanks again man!
Definitely an option! I've tried it and run into issues with paint on the plyers making a mess and I still get some paint in the eye, so its heat shrink tubing for me. I'm glad its working for you though!
Just ordered new mold from hog salad ( with ur affiliate link) save me some money I been waiting on codes for barlws I spend good amount of money there 😂
Sweetness!! You’ll love the HS molds, man they are fantastic! I hear you on Barlows. While I do have the code they don’t do discounts along with it yet, who knows maybe in the future! The code does let them know “I sent ya” which is cool in itself!
Your stuff looks great. But watching and reading the comments. You all have made this way too complicated. If you just want to make a process and have time to kill. That's fine. I have been doing this for a long time. Hang parts from racks in oven. Heat oven to 375. cup of powder on stovetop. Once jigs reach temp where when dipped the paint melts to jig. They are ready. open door, with pliers grab hook, close door, dip into cup. With spoon drop a little paint on top avoiding eye. Back in oven grab next. I can color 50 jigs in 15 minutes. leave at temp for 5 minutes. Turn off oven If you get paint on eye, immediately remove with toothpick, pick with fingernail. Return to oven for final bake. Done
Adam I am really thankful for all that you do keep it up. I’m watching each video. You’re awesome.
@@donnieblackketter7897 absolutely my friend! You found an oldy but a goody in this one! Glad you’re enjoying the content!
You have thought me more about the basics and versatility of jig making then any other
So much appreciated
Wow, that’s awesome Mike… I’m humbled and grateful to have been a help! Thanks for the kind words!!
Great tip with using heat shrink tubing. My jig heads never looked so good!
SWEET! Glad it hear it man, been a game-changer for me too!
Is there a link you can provide of the shrink tubing you got?
@@markn3586 any automotive store or Walmart will have some.
One of the best hacks I got from you was the heat shrink maybe a year ago saves so much time not having to clean the eye tie. Thanks for sharing this video Adam
Awesome Rich!! Love to hear that! 👍👍
Thanks for the great tips!
The heat shrink and I’ve always wondered why I would sometimes have trouble with the bottom of the jig head.
Thanks again!
My pleasure Mike! Glad you found it helpful!
As always in hobbies it's fun to learn new things. Great video. I use old pill bottles with holes drilled in lids over paper to top coat jig heads .
Great idea John 👍👍. Thanks also for the kind words!
John please don't be offended but could you speed it up
Another incredible and informative video !!! We are so grateful that you are willing to share these step by step instructional videos with us.
SDG - Glory to God alone.
My pleasure Danny! Amen brother!
Best video i have ever seen .. DUDE YOU ROCK !! If I pull the trigger and get into making jigs I'm deff going to set things up like your ,, love the detail and clean set up
Appreciate that Dan, thanks for the kind words man! Glad you enjoyed the video!
If you have a bench grinder, put a fine brass wire wheel on it and you will find that it will clean the eye hole out and leave it nice and smooth. Plus it will only take about 8 to 10 seconds or less to get the job done.
A good alternative, thanks!
Very helpful, Adam. Your "nerd outs" were esp useful as, after, all, it takes a special mindset to get into this at our level! :) Found out I've been putting the shrink tube on too early too! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure Rod! I appreciate the chance to get a little more technical from time to time… even if it’s just a theory. Glad I’ve got some guys out there, like yourself, that dig the details!
Yes! Your details are much appreciated!
When you put the jig head into the oven, does not affect the resistance ( hardeness) of the hooks?
@@rodolfochfend great question Rodolfo! The temp would have to be high enough to turn the hooks red… 800-900+ degrees… for the hooks to be negatively impacted by the oven. Powder paint cures at a min temp of 275 (so says Pro Tec when I called them to ask) and cures best around 325/350. Too much hotter and the paint melts and starts to sag/drip. Hope this helps!!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft ok, thanks.
I have been looking for a video on this exact subject!! Thanks.... watching now
Sweet! Always love to hear some of my content can be a help! Yell if you have any follow-on questions, I'd be happy to help further if I can.
Never tried fluidity but can only imagine!
One of my tricks for accent colors is using a beauty brush from above tapping with a finger letting it rain onto the jig.
I like using fingers for adding a blotched top color.
Very cool! Fluid beds are awesome, makes the coat nice and even!
Usually less than a 2oz jar. You could cut the cups a bit taller to get the whole jar in there.
just getting started painting jigs, this is very informative
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Another great video!! I really enjoy the in-depth process of each stage of jig making!! Thanks Adam for going through the each step with explanation of why you do it that way!! Maybe soon you can do another video on pouring jigs using different hooks and how you make them fit the molds!! I watched your previous video on it but would love to see another!! Thanks again Adam for another great video!!!
Glad you enjoyed it James!! Regarding the lead side, you’ll have to help me understand the question/idea… maybe shoot me an email. It’s early, so maybe I’m missing something :), but the hook either fits or doesn’t, LOL! Lemme know what you have in mind and I’ll see what I can do!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft In the video, if I remember right, you customized the mold to fit hooks that were different than what Do It molds recommended. Maybe using a circle hook instead of a straight shank hook. I think you put the hook in the mold and tapped it with a mallet to get to set flush, also you used a high heat silicone to fill in the collars to customize the jigs. This is more helpful for crappie jigs than some of the bass jig molds. I really enjoy all your videos especially the crappie jigs since I crappie and trout fish more than bass. I’ve learned more from you, Small Jaw and Eric Gilley than anyone else. Thanks Adam for all the time and effort to put in the videos, they’ve been both educational and enjoyable!!
@@jamesphillips2216 aaahhh, ok, now I follow. Yeah, the mallet was modifying the mold to take a spinnerbait wire. I have yet to modify a mold to take a different hook itself. The high heat stuff is great when you want to block out part of the mold… usually wire keeper slots etc. I’ve considered trying to make a mold more versatile by drilling out the space for the eye (so you can use flat eye or vertical) but never tried it. I need to get a used mold off Facebook sometime to experiment so I’m not risking $40-50!!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft sounds like a plan!! Get your creative juices flowing, it would make for a great video!! Thanks Adam!!
Well done. You're very thorough and do good quality work. Thanks for sharing your tips with us. I learned quite a bit.
Excellent Robert, so glad to hear that! All the best my friend!
Adam, nice presentation of a lot of information. Great job👍👍
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Thx Art!!
Thank you for this super detailed video. Really enjoying it!
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it!
Good job homie. The hidden hook eye is the only one I leave the powder coat in. I just shoot a round toothpick thru it right after dipping it to open the hole. So far it has not bit me. My heat gun must not run as hot as yours (mine is old) cuz I have to heat em for about 30 seconds. Your clumpy GP....my brown does the same. I think some color batches must be thicker at times because my GP is one of the easier ones for me. I like seeing how you do your stuff and I use some of the methods you have on your teaching vids....fluid bed making, shrink tubing, the rack for putting into the oven....thanks a ton. You a good man Charlie Brown.
It’s truly my pleasure Mark, love to hear my stuff is a help! Good subs (and friends) make the job a lot easier too ;)!
You leave me no choice, I'm gettin' jiggy with it!
Jig on!
I found that when I use heat shrink over the hook eye that the top of the heat shrink does not close completely and when dipping the jig head into the fluid bed, powder gets in and migrates down and gets on the hook eye.
To solve this I took an extra step and cut some weed trimmer line into small pieces and insert it into the top of the shrink tubing. It snugs up tight and closes the hole and solved the problem.
Adam, I've learned so much from you.
Thank you!
Yup, thanks for the comment Rizzo! I’ve noticed that too. I used to pinch it shut right before dipping, but that would sometimes fail. So, I figured a little paint just on the top wasn’t hurting anything and let it go :). Sometimes I’ll still scrape it off if it’s white and more noticeable. Good idea in the trimmer line, smart thinking!
Wow! Wish I’d seen this bout a week ago before I jumped in head first! Woulda saved u answering a lot of questions from me too!! 😂
I’ve watched at dozens of vids over the last week on jig painting and fluid bed construction… gotta say ur tutorials are absolutely hands down the best and most informative. 👏🏻👏🏻
BTW… GP/Copper for the win!! 🏆
LOL, timing just happened that way since I just got a bunch of new paints, go figure! It was probably good actually… helped me remember some stuff and ensure I got it into the video! Thanks also for the kind words man, really appreciate it!
Btw… I think the original fluid bed design assumed the top and bottom of the powder cup would com off the bed when swapping colors… hence the bottom coupler. I probably assume I had to have a top and bottom in order for the filter to stay put… only to find out the top coupler and PVC were sufficient AND the unit more naturally separates there. Live and learn!
(GP/Copper…🔥🔥)
Great video Adam! Very informative and learned a few new tricks to try . Thanks for sharing!
Awesome Bryan! Glad you found some tid-bits to add to the arsenal!
Great education video. Thank you so much for letting us take advantage of your experience.
My pleasure Clint!
Thanks for making this video. Answered a lot of my questions and Very detailed. I hit the subscribe button.
Great to hear it was a help man! Thanks for the support as well! Hope you enjoy the rest of the content!
Great video! Thank you for the shrink tubing idea. I have been using small bits of painters tape to cover the eyes and it works pretty well but, the shrink tubing will be much faster and easier.
It was a game-changer for me, for sure!! Hope it works out well for you!
I've never understood why people dont want to get paint on the line tie. I paint mine all the time i use a paperclip & run it through the eyelit as soon as i pull it out of fluid bed.Not saying SDG or anyone is doing it wrong by using heat shrink i just personally think looks better painted.
@@LTOutdoors It's important that the eye of the hook has no jagged edges or abrasions that will damage the line. Cured powder paint can have tiny sharp edges. Keeping the paint out is just another step in reducing break offs.
Great video and have been wanting to get into painting jig heads but still not sure I am ready for the jig molds and lead pot. I am not sure I need enough jig heads to warrant the molds and pot. Keep up the great work on ideas and videos.
Thanks Jimmie! Glad you liked the video! There’s definitely a freedom that comes with the ability to make whatever you need just the way you like it. Shoot… even just s small HotPot (where I started) and a ladle… pick a few molds you would use a bunch… maybe $200-250 and you’d set for a long time. Be warned though… once you get a taste there’s no going back!! LOL
On the recest hook eyes, I put a small piece of toothpick in it before dipping, it'll keep the paint out of it.and then I just scrape the outside off
Great idea 👍👍
Awesome video...Always great info !!!!
Thanks man!! Really appreciate the kind words!
Wonder if you can use a vibrating bed.You can attach holders that fit the powder coat containers on.
Interesting idea!
Great stuff, Adam. I own a lure manufacturing company in Thailand. I'm interested in doing this on a more industrial scale but I'm having a hard time finding info on doing jig heads in large volumes.
Hit reply too soon... Do you know anywhere I can find more info on bulk powder coating?
Thanks John, I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Unfortunately I do not have the “scaling” info you’re after. It would be a challenge to incorporate some of the techniques shown in this video at scale… not really realistic, but who knows, there’s some brilliant engineers out there that could probably develop something! :)
The reason you are getting voids on the bottom of your jigs is because the air pressure is to high.
The powder should look fluid, not like boiling water. The voids are air pockets. Simple test - turn off the air right before dipping. (Your powder will still be fluffed up)
Another tip add some clear powder paint to your green pumpkin powder it will flow a lot better. Keep the videos coming.
Thx Geoff! Appreciate the feedback!
I tried your tip Geoff and it worked
@@craigvandyke9298 Cool, I am glad it worked for you.
Man I love your shop !!! OCD recognize OCD lol 😂 . I've been using aluminum foil for my hook eyes . I got a set of finesse screwdrivers and I cut 1 inch by 1-in pieces of aluminum foil and wrap around the shaft of the screwdriver - size based off of the hook of course . Pull it off of the screwdriver and slide it onto the hook eye . And then use my pliers to flatten the aluminum foil on both sides of the hook eye and then trim with scissors. It stays on while I have the jig in front of the heat gun and while in the powder paint . I let it cool and use the same pliers to pull the aluminum foil off . That way there is never any abrasions inside the line tie or paint in a hook eye . # Nicest shop on UA-cam by far
Neat-freaks unite!
Cool idea with the foil! I could tell you did something when I went through your baits. Nice nice!
Appreciate the shop props as well! It is my happy place!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft For sure !!! Yeah the foil is low tech but it works well . It's kinda redundant but if you precut all your pieces , it helps time wise . On my football jigs that have a recessed line tie , I'll slide a rolled up piece of foil through the the hook eye and then pinch it together . It helps as well .
@@joshwhite8055 good call. I’m looking at a different football head mold (non-recessed) to avoid the issue, but also because it takes both flat and vertical eye hooks (cool to have the option) and the cavities go down to 1/8 (I can only get down to 1/4 today). Versatility, clean eyes, and smaller size option… win win win!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft definitely !! We throw a finesse football jig around here quite a bit in the spring and the fall especially on bluff walls 1/8 can come in handy . I can see one in all black with a black drop shot leech as a trailer
@@joshwhite8055 oh yeah!
Incredible tutorial
Glad it was helpful!
Jigs look amazing. Do you have a step by step video on how to tie a skirt? Start to finish. I try and watch but it to far away for me.
Thanks Michael! I do have a couple videos on the channel that include my work at the vice. They may not be as step-by-step as you're looking for though. I'd recommend checking out Dan on his Smalljaw channel - he ties jigs almost exclusively.
@@SDGCustomLurecraft
I will look for yours first. It’s the knots I have trouble seeing when finishing up. Thank you
Magic Craw Blue is one of my favorite to paint. They hit the mark when they made that one.
100%!! Definitely a standout for this guy!
Great vid, thanks for all the details!
My pleasure Christopher!
Excellent video for me just setting up to do 1/8, 3/16 & 1/4 hair jigs for smallmouth. You're my main tutorial for the powder painting, and just got done cutting up my 3/32 shrink tubing ! Thanks! My heat gun has a 750 and 1000 degree settings - would you use the hotter setting for these size jigs, and just experiment 3-6 seconds? I see you're using the curved hemostat pliers. Do you prefer them to the straight and is 5.5" a good size (never used a heat gun before - don't want to melt the flesh off my bones)! I appreciate your sharing, all you've figured out over time, including how to keep them eyes clean rather than figuring out how to get the paint out once you've got them clogged!! I'm starting out with just black for starters, so that'll be easy.
Hey Bruce, awesome to hear about you getting into lurecraft! Thanks also for the kind, encouraging words man, very cool! Re: the heat gun, I crank it up… if anything it’s just a little less time in front of the heat. I’ve only gotten myself in “melting trouble” (jig head, not my flesh thankfully! LOL) when using a torch (my gun died and my replacement hadn’t arrived yet). That small, 3-5 sec should be plenty, yup! I do like the curved hemostats but have both. The curved makes it a little more “natural” to dip the head once hot (at least in my experience) but I’m convinced you get used to whatever you use. Had I started out with a straight shank I may (probably would!) prefer it today. Happy to help however I can man, especially if it’s saving fellow bait makers some time, trouble, and frustration!
Great video! One of the best I have seem.
Thanks Jack! Truly appreciated my friend!
Loved the video. Learned a lot. How did you take the shrink wrap off the eye before the final bake?
Thanks Thomas, glad it was helpful to you. Nothing fancy on the heat shrink removal, just a pair of pliers and she pulls right off. Anymore, I do it right away while the tubing is still “soft”, seems to be a bit easier than waiting until the head cools and the tubing hardens. Thanks again for the comment!
Do you have a video that shows how to use thread to secure skirts to baits instead of rubber bands and what all is needed to start doing it ?? Thanks
Hey Ed, thanks for the question. Simple answer is, absolutely! :) Take a look through the other videos on the channel - anything jig-related (silicon, rubber, natural material like bucktail or fur) was tied at the vise with thread - lots of tutorials and demos for you to choose from. Thanks!!
Excellent video. My black and blue flake turned out great. But once I cured it in my toaster oven the glitter lost its luster… I’m guessing it’s too hot in there?
Good chance, yeah. Flake of any kind can be heat sensitive and dull out with over-exposure. I have a video in the “Shop” playlist that covers “Calibrating your toaster oven” as that dial is a liar, LOL! They often run hotter than advertised, so you need to pull it down a bit. I encourage you to check it out and any of the others in that playlist, might find some other nuggets to enjoy. Thanks for the kind words, glad you liked the video!
I'm not getting any work done today as I'm watching all your videos! Do you have another video that goes over your "final" fluid bed setup? The one I'm watching now appears to be your first crack at it. Also not sure why you have that additional coupler on the bottom. Thanks!!!!
Rick, your timing is impeccable, LOL! Stay tuned for Wed’s video, all your questions will be answered!
Very cool video.
Thank ya sir! Glad you enjoyed it!
Where do you get those plastic caps for the 2" pvc tubes? I can't find them at my local sources.
Those are called “test caps”. For me, they were with the PVC stuff at Lowes and/or Home Depot. Hope you can find em!!
Thank you for taking the time to explain your methods and tips! You answered almost all my questions in this video. I am working on building a fluid bed like yours. Where did you find those plastic caps that you put on the tops of the 2 inch PVC? Thanks for your time!
Hey Allen, I’m glad this was helpful! Those caps are called “test caps” and were in the same pvc section at Lowes. Good luck on the build!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft Thank you so much. I found them!
Great Video !
Those pliers are called Hemostats !
Thank you sir, yes they are! #brainfreeze!
have you done any Crackle effects on your jig heads? would love to see how thats done.
Not yet, but maybe someday! Thanks for the question!
I wonder if a toothpick tip would save from filing on the recessed line ties
@@jasonmattern5855 I’ve heard that does help, yup!
Can you store paint in my unheated shed. I heat it up when I do lures? It gets cold
@@MJMCHRONICLES it’s all powder so shouldn’t be a problem 👍👍
Dip your flat sided bates upside. Where the flat part is to the outside, the move it side to side has worked better for me sir!
Great suggestion, thanks!
Green pumpkin messed up. Looks natural. Keep it. 👍
Glad you liked it!
What color/colors would you use for tog jigs
That one is out of my element as I’m not around them, but with a quick Google search I was a lot of chartreuse and orange. Hope this helps!
I just did my first Pro-Tec powder paint on jig heads. Do recommend or is it customary to put some type of clear top coat on the jig heads. If so, is it a liquid or powder product that is used. Thanks for helping a newbie! ( or oldie, I made and tied jigs when I was about 12. My dad sold them for a dollar each.)
Congrats on the paint jobs! No need for a clear unless you want it for some reason. As long as you cure them in a dedicated over (toaster oven most commonly) at the right temp for the right amount of time, you should be good to go!
Thanks so much for your help!!!!
@@clublon my pleasure!
Do you reheat again prior to applying the top coat?
Thanks for the question! I usually dip the head twice, back to back, no heat between dips. If I’m applying a second color I can usually do so without heat between, but there are times it needs a bit. If more heat is required it’s not a problem, just takes a lot less time on the heat gun to get it back up to temp. Hope this helps and I was tracking with your question!
Do you dip in while then immediately dip into another color or do you dip and cure white then go back and do another color?
Thanks for the question! On a 2-color head I’m dipping the base color then usually dusting on a second color via a chip brush or something similar. That second color is right away, which the head is still hot. It could require some extra heat but, generally speaking, if the head is hot enough for the are coat and you move fairly quickly, no reheat is needed. Once complete, then the cure.
Loved it. Thanks.
My pleasure Glenn! Thx!
Excelente presentación amigo . consulta donde adquirir esos modelos de cabezas plomadas .un afectuoso saludo de Sudamérica chile
¡Me alegra que hayas disfrutado del video! No vendo estas cabezas de plantilla, pero puedes comprar el molde y la pintura de Barlow's Tackle y hacer la tuya propia. Los enlaces a esos productos se encuentran en la descripción del video. ¡Gracias!
how close to the hole did you put the tubing, going from the 1 inch tube to the shark bite fitting?
If I understand your question, I cut a 5” piece in half, so 2.5” from the 1” PVC manifold to the valve, then 2.5 again to the cup. But that was relative to my size board (10” wide) and each piece of tubing extended into the cup and manifold a bit. Hope that helps!
Great vid ! Subscribed ! I've been using heat shrink for awhile also but I find if I wait until the jighead cools it can be difficult to remove it,just curious as to how you remove your heat shrink ? Do you just pull it off by hand ? Or ?
Thanks Daniel! Heat shrink is awesome. I pull it off with a pair of pliers just before I hang it up to cool. It can be a little more difficult if you wait too long, but either way, it’s doable, so long as you don’t leave it on in the oven! Hope this helps man!
Thanks for you helpful job!
Where i am living i cant find powder Paint brand as protec, import It through Amazon, eBay Is to expensive.
Therefore could you please explain which kind of Paint Is Need for heat apply as you show?
Any powder coat as Mica resin based Paint or powder coat Paint for car goes or i Need a specific kind of powder Paint?
Thanks so much for your help
Hey Luca, glad this was helpful. Unfortunately the powder does need to be of a certain heat-cured, powder coat type that will melt into the jig head then harden when cured in the oven. Mica powders and such will not to that. Your best bet may be airbrushing or even spray painting the heads then using an epoxy to finish them and protect the paint. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tips. I just started up powder coating and have some questions that I'd appreciate your insight to. I notice if the jigs heads get too hot the amount of powder that sticks to them gets a little thick and the colors end up darker than I would like. I'm using a small propane torch to heat and will switch to a heat gun to control temp better. Is there a magic temperature that would give you a light coating so you can control the final color on the jig better?
Great question Tom, and thanks for the kind words. While temperature of the head does play a role, I don’t think it’s a main driver. Moving to a heat gun should help, and is certainly more forgiving, but the bigger issue is more likely related to how you dip the head and how long it’s in the powder when dipping. If you’re not using a fluid bed you’re “pressing” the head into the powder in order to submerge it for coverage. That added pressure will always force a thicker coating. A fluid bed removes all pressure as your dipping into suspended paint. If you ARE dipping into a fluid bed, the length of time the head is under the paint will make a difference. The faster in-and-out you go, the thinner, more transparent the coating - so try dipping faster. All that said… there are just some paints that coat thick regardless of temperature and speed. And likewise, I have paints that always require 2 dips if I want a deeper/richer color, no matter how long that first dip lasts! So, don’t discount the impact of different paints. I hope this has been helpful!
New to your channel but awesome info. I just buy not make but you make want to try.😅
Thanks for watching! 👍👍
Really enjoyed the video! First one of yours I've watched and going to check out your others. One question...who is the guitar player in the music track? Great player and I'd like to check them out...thanks!
Hey Bill, glad you liked the video! Hopefully you find some other stuff on the channel that peaks your interest. If you'd like to see more shop-focused stuff, there's a whole "Shop" playlist as well as a 12 week series I pulled together about a year ago called Wednesdays in the Workshop. Otherwise, lots a lure builds to choose from! Thanks the support! And the guitar player is a guy I found via Epidemic Sound: Sture Zetterberg. Thx again!
I have watched several of your videos and tried powder coating this morning and the paper bags cutout do not distribute the air evenly. Air flow is only around the edges.
Hey Dan, thanks for the support! I have two thoughts, maybe they will be helpful (I hope so!). 1). Make sure you’re using a thin brown bag. The thicker brown bags used for groceries back in the day are much thicker and wouldn’t allow for the proper air flow. 2). Assuming a thin filter, around the edges usually mean the air flow is too weak. That may be because of a leak somewhere in the system or due to an under-powered pump. I ran into this when using a small $12 pump from Walmart ages ago… especially when I attempted to “T” the air and run multiples. The pump I use is a 50-160 gallon variable speed pump… really pushes the air. Also note, some paints are far heavier than others and can be problematic (causing the volcanoing along the edges). Again, more air pressure is needed, and stiring while the bed gets going tends to help. Hopefully there’s something here to make things better for ya! If nothing else, you can always try a different filter! I tried almost all of them and landed on the ‘ol “lunch bag”, but to each his own!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft I will change the filters to a thinner material. Thx.
Nice video! Still I'm not able to find "Glow in the dark" powder paint.
I only find glow in the dark powder which is suppost to mix with a glue or a fluid.
Anyone have any suggestions where to find glow in the dark powder paint?
Thanks Jonas! While I’ve never used them, I believe Barlows carry’s glow powder paints that are applied the same way (heat, dip, etc). But again, I’ve not tried them so I don’t have any experience with them to know for sure.
Great video. I'm new to your channel. I have been making my own jigs for years. I use powder paints for my bullet weights only. I use vinyl paints for my igs. I put a clear coat of epoxy, mixed with some sort of glitter (fuschia or red). In your opinion, what are the benefits of powder paints over the vinyl with a top coat of poxy? Thanks!
Hey Rick, thanks for the feedback and I’m glad you found me! Since I’ve never painted jigs the other way I’m no authority to speak about the difference, but one benefit I would GUESS is turn-around time. I know epoxy takes time to cure whereas I can get an unpainted jig head ready for the vise in about 30-45 min. But like I said, that’s just a guess. Epoxy may be a bit more durable, but I’d have to test it to be sure. Thanks again man!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft I love how the finish of the powder paint over vinyl. However, the vinyl allows me to carefully "paint" around the hook eyes. Both Janns Netcraft and Barlow pro-staff say the powder paint is more durable than vinyl. However, the epoxy finish on vinyl is pretty close to the chip resistance of the baked powder finish.
Great videos and I'm glad I found another lure-making geek like myself!
@@1MoreFish Heck yeah man! Check out my “Wednesday in the Workshop” playlist, lots of good stuff in there related to jig painting and general tips/tricks in the shop. I have a dedicated video about how to keep paint out of the hook eye, a topic I touched on in this video.
No baking in the oven?
@@rossbergerson7046 these were all baked - 325/350 for about 20-25 minutes.
Sorry if this has been asked before but where do you get the jig head with the hole in it for the weed guard? Are they sold commercially or do you make your own? Thanks
I make all my own. Do-It makes the molds. I melt and pour the lead into the molds and prep the heads before painting. They are sold commercially though - a number of online retailers offer “unpainted heads”.
@@SDGCustomLurecraft
Thanks. I just can’t seem to find any that come with the weed guard hole but without the weed guard.
@@Osprey1955 Try these:
barlowstackle.com/crappie-and-panfish-gear/unpainted-jig-heads/
and
www.fishingskirts.com/boss-unpainted-jigs/
@@SDGCustomLurecraft
Thanks very much. Barlows doesn’t have any but Fishing Skirts does.
Have you ever painted tungsten?
I have not! Wouldn’t know where to begin, to be honest! Interesting idea though!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft I called CS paints, the manufacturer of Pro-tec and they told me that you can paint tungsten it just needs to be heated at a higher heat.
@@dmalone8274 interesting, good to know!!
Loved it
Great to hear!
Hi is this a polyester powder paint
I believe it’s an epoxy powder paint, not sure if that’s polyester-based.
Sorry for the stupid question but why do you need to air rate the paint.
Hey Dave, not a stupid question at all, thanks for asking. First off, you don’t NEED a fluid bed to paint jig heads, you just miss out on the benefits it offers if you don’t use one. What are the benefits? The addition of air to the paint allows you to dip it and get a very even, thin coating. Powder paint can be brittle when over-applied… and when dipping into the jar directly, the “bottom” of the jig that is pressed into the paint to “sink” the head all the way (for full coverage) can melt too much paint as it’s pushed down… that extra can sag and cause any number of issues for you. A fluid bed really helps you avoid that problem!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have an idea for something similar. Perhaps in the future I will build it to many other projects going on right now.
Great video. I have a quick question. Do you apply the second coat right after the base coat or do you reheat the jig first?
Hey Russel, thanks for the question! If I double-dip (don’t always) I do it right away while the head is still hot.
Can any one point me in the direction of a 1 oz walleye eye socket jig mold please I can not find them anywhere
@@ocgoodman3260 the walleye jig itself doesn’t go that high but the bigger Tear Drop may work for you… it goes beyond 1oz and has a recessed eye. Here’s a link: barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Teardrop-Jig-Mold-with-Wire-Keeper-P3287/?afmc=17d
@@SDGCustomLurecraft thanks!
I was gonna say heat shrink or use hot glue gun gel on them eyes that the heat shrink won’t fit on is stil gel after the curing oven
Interesting idea, thanks!
20:03 I too have found that to be true....
Glad I’m not alone!
Why not just put jigheads in toaster oven to heat up, dip, and then put back in toaster to bake? Is there a flaw there that i’m not seeing?
Hey Alan, thanks for the question! That’s certainly an option, but it takes a LOT longer for the heads to heat up via an oven, and in my experience, they don’t get AS hot as the heat gun can accomplish so the paint doesn’t want to melt as well. There’s other limitation I found when I tried it that I’ll spare you of, but suffice to say for me… it ended up being faster and more efficient to use the heat gun, head by head. Hope this helps!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft Thanks for the response! I really love everything about this newly discovered channel!
Great to hear, thx man!
What if you break off a piece of toothpick in the eye before painting 🤙🤙
Definitely an option! When I've done similar things and go to remove it I either get a stringy mess as the powder paint is still soft and pulls, or, I wait until it hardens and I get sharp edges (not so hot for the line). And, if I recall, it often refills while in the oven curing since there was paint on the eye to begin with. But who knows, maybe I did something off kilter and it works great for other guys, LOL! Thanks for the suggestion all the same!
27:23 looks like u got the jig too hot
Most likely so - GP doesn't leave a lot of room for error!
Take a 90 degree pliers and grab hook eye and dip in paint! No paint gets in hook eye! If paint gets on players just bang it on back of a other pair of plyers!
Hey Michael, thanks for the comment! Yup, I've heard that many times before - a very popular approach indeed! I've tried it a number of times and it wasn't for me. The paint always found a way into the eye or I got paint on the plyers making a mess to clean up that took longer than the heat shrink, LOL. BUT, to each his own!! Thanks again man!
mango magic looks more like avocado magic!
Yes indeed! I guess the mango is the orange flake - I like your name better :)
Why don't you just grab the jig head with needle nose pliers at the hook eye. That is how I have been doing it for years.
Definitely an option! I've tried it and run into issues with paint on the plyers making a mess and I still get some paint in the eye, so its heat shrink tubing for me. I'm glad its working for you though!
@@SDGCustomLurecraft Maybe so since you are using bigger jig heads than I use. I mainly do Crappie jigs. Great video, I enjoyed. Best wishes!!
@@RICHIE26636 thank ya sir! Best to you as well!
Just ordered new mold from hog salad ( with ur affiliate link) save me some money I been waiting on codes for barlws I spend good amount of money there 😂
Sweetness!! You’ll love the HS molds, man they are fantastic! I hear you on Barlows. While I do have the code they don’t do discounts along with it yet, who knows maybe in the future! The code does let them know “I sent ya” which is cool in itself!
Yep all 🤓out lol
Oh man, yeah this video has been around for years! Those jig heads are long since snagged up! LOL
Your stuff looks great. But watching and reading the comments. You all have made this way too complicated. If you just want to make a process and have time to kill. That's fine.
I have been doing this for a long time.
Hang parts from racks in oven. Heat oven to 375. cup of powder on stovetop. Once jigs reach temp where when dipped the paint melts to jig. They are ready.
open door, with pliers grab hook, close door, dip into cup. With spoon drop a little paint on top avoiding eye. Back in oven grab next. I can color 50 jigs in 15 minutes. leave at temp for 5 minutes. Turn off oven
If you get paint on eye, immediately remove with toothpick, pick with fingernail. Return to oven for final bake. Done
Thx for watching!
Less bullshiting and more work.
Thanks for watching!
To much trouble just get them from the tackle store and go fishing 3 colors all you need
Thx for watching!
I'd rather make my own, that's part of the thrill.
crappie do not care if your jigs have eyes.
Thanks for watching!
Way too much explanation here bud.
Thanks for watching!