Im from ireland your videos are great. My 14 year old son loves your videos and i think you are a great influence for him keep up the goodwork love your vids
Great video Richard! Im amazed that the spacing of the sleepers may look like a small detail, but with the super elevation kit makes a massive difference to the look and feel of the layout. Just seeing that final running shot of the class 57 with the mark 4 coaches, makes it look so realistic and life like. I take my hat off to you sir. Many thanks Steve
Great work Richard, the sleeper spacing and elevation look great and are well worth the time and effort. I’d still push you to move your portals out a bit further so you don’t get that sharp corner effect as they leave the tunnel 😊👍🏼 But it’s your railway and it will look amazing when finished 👍🏼
@@NewJunction if they look straight coming out of there, it will look simply stunning 😊. Also appreciate that endless recommendations must be frustrating 😂😂
Richard, as always enjoyed your video! You have way more patience than me. Before I recently started track laying on my layout extension I thought about both these things.. sleeper spacing and track elevation,... I may retrofit track elevation, but sleeper spacing is not high on my "round touit" list. Great that you spent the time doing it!
Nice video Richard. It's always a good feeling when you get track down and trains running. The sleeper spacing is certainly worth all the time and effort. - Nicholas.
It’s something I won’t do be it so time consuming!!! Apart from that it looks great. Richard happy Christmas 🎄 and new year. My new update will be updated soon.
I took all off the webbing out on a double line four foot test piece and never thought of taking sleepers from between and this is probably why it took soooo long… 😂 Another great video showing how you do your thing, similar but different to others which is a good thing. Keep up the good work 👍🏻 Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2023, I can’t wait to see what’s coming in the next 12-months of so. Cheers JR
Wow that 57 does look stunning whilst running! Great video as always. Love the look of that respaced track but not fo me - I don't have the patience! Can't wait to see more progress on here!
Great share new here . Well done on showing and explaining on the process of doing your track work. Super cool pieces to use for super elevations curves. Great video 👍🏻🚂🔔
Looking great. My layout is in the pipeline- the first CAD track map is complete. It’ll be a 15x10 4-track loop with various sidings and an 8-platform station as the centrepiece.
I wish I'd seen this video a couple of years ago when I was layiing the Peco Code 75 track on my small HO layout. Spacing the ties further apart would have greatly improved the look of my industrial sidings and the switching lead. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Hi Richard, great stuff! I'm not really into model railways - more of an model airplane buff - but your enthusiasm, skill and personality have made a subscriber of me 👍🏻.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment Jean! I'm glad its enjoyable watching for a non enthusiast, who knows maby one day I'll lure you over to the dark side.
Excellent video as always Richard and good to see the progress of your new layout..cant wait to see it in the flesh.... ..great to meet you and Justin at Warley and you might remember me or maybe not lol but we discussed the vision of layouts for disabled folk as i was having to wheel my friend around in a chair that day...and the use maybe of webcams to help them view them ..be good to see if there would be something like this at some of the future Exhibitions
Great informative video as ever Richard. It looks the bees knees once the sleepers are spaced correctly and makes it look a load better. It'll look brilliant once all of it fixed down and running. Keep up the great work as ever Cheers James
Awesome video mate 😄, definitely need alot of patience when sorting out the sleepers. Great job tho mate 🤠. Keep up the amazing work. Can't wait for more updates Richard 🙂
Very cool. I might employ some of these techniques on my new 00 layout. I moved house 5 months ago, but eventually we have access to the garage and loft so I can do a more detailed plan of the 00 loft layout and 0 garage layout, with dimensions.
Cool! I did this a little recently with n gauge, but only about 8 inches. It was also Peco code 55, so the sleepers were attached to the rails slightly differently, or extra.
I can certainly see the aesthetic side of the spacing but it does seem a lot of work and it would bother me that the points are not spaced the same. I do admire your commitment and look forward to future development.
You’re much better at track laying than I am- I’m using bullhead track and it’s very fiddly. Your layout looks stunning so far, good luck with the rest :)
Well done for spacing your sleepers out they look far better, next step is for you to try and hand build some track 😉 haha great video mate keep up the great work
Proper sleeper spacing looks so much better that I’m still at a loss as to why PECO and other track manufacturers don’t space the sleepers correctly in the first place! They’d save on plastic for a start!
Nice one Richard, I’ve relayed a section of my layout and spaced my concrete sleepers out to match the bullhead point work, definitely worth it but boy is it hard work 😅
Loving this series and realizing it is a year old...... Can we have a show of hands about whether there should be harsh music blaring when you are speaking, or any music for that matter. During the fast forward segments, yes, maybe some quiet music. The so called music at 15:10 was very grating while trying to hear you speak. Some of us old farts prefer silence or nice quite smooth music. Sorry for the complaint. Great series, loving it. Cheers, Geoff
Timesaving tip . Instead of cutting all the webbing, count the sleepers in the length of track. Then remove a "block" of a fifth of them. Cut all the remaining ones and proceed as normal. Or is that impractical?
Having seen this video I wish I had sleeper spaced my track. But I’m too far into the build to take it back up and do it, which is a shame. Anyway. Great video, look forward to the next instalment.
This might be too late for you, but I found self adhesive rolls of cork already cut into various widths on eBay which made laying the roadbed much simpler. you'd just need two next to each other and there's enough give to make the curves work.
I've been told that the closer the sleepers are are to each other the greater the line speed. Spacing the sleepers further apart will reduce the line speed.
13:14 so may answer later in video but before I forget how for a modular layout do you lay track scenics and that do you lay add so it looks good but still can be moved
Not quite as laborious as building your own (natural next step?, was for me) but once you've gone to the effort of improving the overall p-way, you won't go back. I hope you enjoy the results. You are moving next level now.....
@@NewJunction its worth a try, pointwork especially, there are some nice kits out there - way cheaper for one thing and can look better - if a clumsy oaf like me can do it anyone can - actual track perhaps less worthwhile (ready made is cheaper) but its not hard at all - especially with like a cork track bed, can make in sections away from the layout then install
@@aleopardstail Aye, I don't disagree. (Not the oaf bit, I don't know your work to agree or differ dear sir). It depends on your desired outcome to an extent. Checked curvature is not represented in ready to lay and then what track you are representing by chair type is still wide open. I doubt it will bother many but concrete express formation points are not available proprietary for the masses, before we follow Alice down the rabbit hole of gauge debate.
Good film Richard, and the spacing is a great improvement on the HO look track. Sadly not available for the pointwork. Tell me , with the Elevation Set, do you have to put the wedges in very close together, or can you space them apart, say 8-10mm, and fill the gaps when ballasting? Is Copydex better, easier, more expensive than PVA glue? I have only used PVA so far.
You could space out the sleeper elevation bits, I didn't want to risk it mind. Copy dex is a fast drying glue which helps when laying the track, ill use PVA when ballasting to really seal it all in. 😊
Always good to get ideas from others videos. I also use copydex as its forgiving if things dont go quite right. And who ever keeps to their planned track plan ? If you do change your mind copydex allows this without needing new track lengths ( an idea I stole from Charlie at ChadwicK)
Great video, I'm not sure I don't think I have the patience to get into the sleeper spacing but I keep thinking about the super elevation as I am about to relocate my railway to a much bigger purpose built 15m x 7m space. I did see Richard's video about super elevation and seem to remember he spaces his wedges at about 5mm intervals but I was just thinking if you use them without spaces as you have could they sit beneath tho cork? Sorry if that's a stupid question.
In respect of tunnels entrances have you taken consideration of cantery? I had a class 90 and cantery was in locked down position but it flipped up during a run smacking the tunnel and taking the train off the track, I was lucky it was low speed and I had not yet fixed the Hornby tunnel face in a permanent position. I would like to know if there is recommended working height for tunnels so trains with cantery can pass with with the overhead pickup in up or down position?
Thanks for this video,I got some really useful tips out of it! I am wondering though, as for laying spaced sleeper track in a curve, wouldn’t it be easier to first place the pins so the basic curve is there and then space the sleepers. Instead of trying to space them while simultanously trying to lay the curve?
I am currently clearing my garage in preparation for my first ever model railway next year. As you will appreciate I am on a steep learning curve and would appreciate any help that you could give. The sleeper spacing looked great but appeared very time consuming, As your layout is new did you consider using Peco bullhead track? If not, why not? I also watched your recent update where you soldered droppers to every piece of track. However, I believe that a few years ago you produced a video showing the use of wired fishplates. Which is the best method? Many thanks. Adrian
As no one has answered you so far I thought I'd offer you some beginner advice. Like a lot of people here I have been doing this for 30 + years. You never count on fishplates to conduct power. They will do so on dry track with no ballast, but the moment you use PVA and water to ballast your track the fishplates will corrode on their inside surface and stop conducting power. Power wires must always be soldered directly to rails for long term reliability. This is why you use the longest track sections possible to cut down on the amount of bus wire connections you need to make.
@@willowsjunction7989 Many thanks for your advice. That is a great help. I will be using Peco flexitrack which will reduce the number of soldered droppers that I will need. Think I will need about 70 sections of track and 20 points, so will probably be an expert at soldering when finished.
Ah, Copydex. Smells like Fish. I got some at the recomendation of Charlie from Chadwick model railways. I haven't laid my track yet, but I cracked the lid of the bottle (As in, somehow damaged the lid so that there's a crack in it) and the entire bottle of glue has gone solid.
Very interesting video which begs the question why don't they make the track with the correct spacing in the first place? Could I just mention that as a musician I find the background music rather distracting and intrusive but maybe that's just me! Thanks for making this.
Notvmy cup of tea, I like the quicker route of get it down, get things moving, but it does look great. Quick question, do the turnnouts come spaced or have you got to space-time to? And I guess you'll have to paint them to match the concrete flexi Thanks for the update, and it was good to meet you at Warley last month, stay safe & well and warm (from one garage hobbit to another)
Hi Brian, the points don't come spaced and won't be, in the real world its common to have closer sleepers on points and be made from wood... so no painting required haha
Hey Richard, question if I may. Followed your movements here and Everard Junctions, but I am finding that my Peco code 75 bullhead flexi track is behaving differently to yours. I snipped the webbing and removed every 5th sleeper but I find the Railway Laser 00 gauge is putting the sleepers closer together so I have to add quite a few sleepers to the end of the rails! The gap seems to be about 6mm between sleepers is this what you found on yours? What am I doing wrong.
Hi Richard, once you raised the curved track to apply the Copydex, how did you prevent the track from pinging back once the pins were not holding it? Thanks
It is already looking great, Richard! 👍🏼 I have a question: normally a track lays a bit elevated, so you can create a trackbed. Now is the cork you are using not very thick. Isn’t that a problem for the future trackbed.
Hi Richard, hope all is well. Sorry to have missed you at Warley, Mike said you were gallivanting around somewhere! With regards to the elevation wedges, is it recommend to lay them side by side or can you space them slightly therefore getting more milage per pack? Keep well kiddo, regards Bobby 'T''.
I’d noticed very early on in the video you were wrapped up, with more layers than an onion. And you commented it was cold towards the end. Are you concerned about obvious temperature fluctuations through the seasons?
Hi Martin, as long as you're prepared for it yourself and on the layout its fine. I avoid thin card kits incase of damp and create sutible expansion gaps in my track.
Hi Richard. Why didn't the track manufacturer (PECO?) get the spacing right in the first place? Is the superelevation kit multigauge, or just for OO gauge?
Spacing looks good. Pity the manufacturer doesn't supply the track with the correct spacing. It would certainly make realistic track laying a lot easier.
Strange how you told me at Warley you have moved house, you seem to be in the old garage Richard. Shame that as I would have liked to buy your ‘O’ Gauge track. Andy
Being from the U S you had me confused for a bit calling the rail ties sleepers. But with the limited knowledge of UK trains and track you can gain from watching Thomas and Friends and occasionally playing TSW the spaced ties look better and more realistic.
Don't forget you can support the channel here:
www.patreon.com/NewJunction/
I really like how the spaced track has little variations in the angle and spacing to the sleeper ties. It makes it look more like real track.
Thanks!
Sleeper spacing always looks miles better. Gives a much nicer profile to the look of the track. Great video as always 👍
Many thanks!
@@NewJunction so why don't Peco produce it with the correct spacing. It would also reduct the amount of plastic needed?
@@davidtwist3659 DCC Concepts do a flat bottomed and bullhead track with correct sleeper spacing. However this is only in wood not concrete as of yet.
i appreciate the sleeper spacing effort i wish peco would do 00 scale concrete track! all the best looking forward to the next episode!
Im from ireland your videos are great. My 14 year old son loves your videos and i think you are a great influence for him keep up the goodwork love your vids
Many thanks John, wish your lad a happy Christmas from me! 😊
I have to say I too was inspired by Richard's video, but in the opposite direction! No one except me seeing my loft layout was a major factor! ;-)
I think that makes sense lol
Hey Richard, thank you as always I have taken lots away from this video to think about when I get to this stage.
My pleasure
Great use of a JK wagon! 😊
A very useful wagon! 😁
That elevation is super.
Thanks 😊
Thank you for showing us your procedure in such detail.
You're very welcome Scott
Great video Richard! Im amazed that the spacing of the sleepers may look like a small detail, but with the super elevation kit makes a massive difference to the look and feel of the layout. Just seeing that final running shot of the class 57 with the mark 4 coaches, makes it look so realistic and life like. I take my hat off to you sir. Many thanks Steve
Thanks Steve, glad you're enjoying the process... I've a few tricks up my sleeve for this layout! 😁
Thank you for another brilliant video New Junction
My pleasure Mels 😊
It's so cool you have a figure of yourself !
Modelu did a great job!
Fantastic video and guide.
Thanks Mark!
It looks great Richard, well worth the effort. I’m really enjoying this series and looking forward to the next episode.
Many thanks! I'm enjoying your videos too 😉
@@NewJunction 😊
No way you have a lot of patience, I have never heard of this process..Great work and info .
Take care jim..🚅🚄🚅👍🏻
Thanks Jim! 😊
Well worth the effort to go that little bit further. Keep up the good work, it is progressing nicely 💪
Thanks, will do!
Very patient process. I would fall asleep doing that 😂
Looking good. Can’t wait to start seeing more scenery
You and me both! 😊
Great work Richard, the sleeper spacing and elevation look great and are well worth the time and effort. I’d still push you to move your portals out a bit further so you don’t get that sharp corner effect as they leave the tunnel 😊👍🏼 But it’s your railway and it will look amazing when finished 👍🏼
Many thanks, its spot isn't set yet so we'll see how it ends up 😁
@@NewJunction if they look straight coming out of there, it will look simply stunning 😊. Also appreciate that endless recommendations must be frustrating 😂😂
@@360railways6 its where all my best ideas come from... other people haha
@@NewJunction 😂😂
Richard, as always enjoyed your video! You have way more patience than me. Before I recently started track laying on my layout extension I thought about both these things.. sleeper spacing and track elevation,... I may retrofit track elevation, but sleeper spacing is not high on my "round touit" list. Great that you spent the time doing it!
Thanks, thought I'd better give it ago at least once!
Nice video Richard. It's always a good feeling when you get track down and trains running. The sleeper spacing is certainly worth all the time and effort. - Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas
It’s something I won’t do be it so time consuming!!! Apart from that it looks great. Richard happy Christmas 🎄 and new year. My new update will be updated soon.
Many thanks, looking forward to your update! 😁
Looking good !
Well worth the effort Richard! Well done
Thanks Tris!
Good video here Richard good to see the mainlines taking shape and being able to run a train.
Thanks David!
I took all off the webbing out on a double line four foot test piece and never thought of taking sleepers from between and this is probably why it took soooo long… 😂
Another great video showing how you do your thing, similar but different to others which is a good thing.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Merry Christmas and best wishes for 2023, I can’t wait to see what’s coming in the next 12-months of so.
Cheers JR
The sleeper spacing and super elevation looks great!
Thanks Jade
Wow that 57 does look stunning whilst running! Great video as always. Love the look of that respaced track but not fo me - I don't have the patience! Can't wait to see more progress on here!
Won't be too long now the tracks almost done
@@NewJunction That'll be good to see - especially with the LNER rake running at full speed!
@@timbervalleyproductions if it'll go round at full speed haha
@@NewJunction I bet it'll look better than my layout whatever happens 🤣
Excellent update video, Richard! Really learned some great track work tips in this!
Glad it was helpful Tony!
Great share new here . Well done on showing and explaining on the process of doing your track work. Super cool pieces to use for super elevations curves. Great video 👍🏻🚂🔔
Thanks so much 😊 welcome aboard!
Looking great. My layout is in the pipeline- the first CAD track map is complete. It’ll be a 15x10 4-track loop with various sidings and an 8-platform station as the centrepiece.
Sounds great!
@@NewJunction First 3 of the 5 tables are done. We’ve settled on 16x10.
Looking good. I’ve finished the majority of the track laying and now to cold to do anything in the garage at the moment.
Layers, heaters and a hot beverage does me hehe
I wish I'd seen this video a couple of years ago when I was layiing the Peco Code 75 track on my small HO layout. Spacing the ties further apart would have greatly improved the look of my industrial sidings and the switching lead. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Always the way, thanks for the comment!
The track is already correctly, scaled spaced for HO.
Hi Richard, great stuff! I'm not really into model railways - more of an model airplane buff - but your enthusiasm, skill and personality have made a subscriber of me 👍🏻.
Many thanks for taking the time to comment Jean! I'm glad its enjoyable watching for a non enthusiast, who knows maby one day I'll lure you over to the dark side.
Excellent video as always Richard and good to see the progress of your new layout..cant wait to see it in the flesh.... ..great to meet you and Justin at Warley and you might remember me or maybe not lol but we discussed the vision of layouts for disabled folk as i was having to wheel my friend around in a chair that day...and the use maybe of webcams to help them view them ..be good to see if there would be something like this at some of the future Exhibitions
Hello, thanks for guarding my tripod at Warley! 😁
The webcam idea is great especially as this layout stands really tall, which would be no use!
Great informative video as ever Richard. It looks the bees knees once the sleepers are spaced correctly and makes it look a load better. It'll look brilliant once all of it fixed down and running. Keep up the great work as ever
Cheers
James
Many thanks as always James!
I used a thin strip from the cork roll for my track elevation n worked a treat
Yeah great idea!
@@NewJunction wolverton train station for me has the best curves, type in trains at wolverton, there plenty to see on UA-cam Richard
Awesome video mate 😄, definitely need alot of patience when sorting out the sleepers. Great job tho mate 🤠. Keep up the amazing work. Can't wait for more updates Richard 🙂
Thanks for taking the time to comment! 😁
Very cool. I might employ some of these techniques on my new 00 layout.
I moved house 5 months ago, but eventually we have access to the garage and loft so I can do a more detailed plan of the 00 loft layout and 0 garage layout, with dimensions.
Good luck!
Cool! I did this a little recently with n gauge, but only about 8 inches. It was also Peco code 55, so the sleepers were attached to the rails slightly differently, or extra.
I'd struggle to do it in N gauge!
Smooth curves are always a massive win
Merry Christmas Richard
I can certainly see the aesthetic side of the spacing but it does seem a lot of work and it would bother me that the points are not spaced the same. I do admire your commitment and look forward to future development.
Thanks Robin!
The spacing varies in real life too. Over points, junctions, expansion gaps and bridges the sleepers are closer together.
Great video mate!!! Thanks for sharing!!!! Merry Christmas and a happy and healty new year for you and your family!!! Cheers Onno.
Thanks as always Onno!
What a fine layout that is you are making . Iam impresed with those track spacing tools for want of a better word and the curve or cant devices
Thanks Paul!
Looks great. Very interesting video . I model n scale and get away with various layers of masking tape on the outside edge of the track
Great content as always mate 🙂
Many thanks!
Fantastic progress
Nick Australia
Thanks Nick!
You’re much better at track laying than I am- I’m using bullhead track and it’s very fiddly. Your layout looks stunning so far, good luck with the rest :)
Thanks, lots of practice!
Well done for spacing your sleepers out they look far better, next step is for you to try and hand build some track 😉 haha great video mate keep up the great work
Ha! Noooo that would be too far for me lol
@@NewJunction go on you know you want to!
Great Stuff Richard
Thanks David!
Proper sleeper spacing looks so much better that I’m still at a loss as to why PECO and other track manufacturers don’t space the sleepers correctly in the first place! They’d save on plastic for a start!
Nice update Richard. Coming along nicely cant wait gkt more updates.
Oh please ask your work mates to upload class 390 pride......
Will do 😊
Nice one Richard, I’ve relayed a section of my layout and spaced my concrete sleepers out to match the bullhead point work, definitely worth it but boy is it hard work 😅
You get quicker with time... I hope haha
Nice one
Thanks for watching
Richard watching you is like looking at the blind leading the blind.😂😂😂😂😂
Tell me about it! 😅
Loving this series and realizing it is a year old...... Can we have a show of hands about whether there should be harsh music blaring when you are speaking, or any music for that matter. During the fast forward segments, yes, maybe some quiet music.
The so called music at 15:10 was very grating while trying to hear you speak. Some of us old farts prefer silence or nice quite smooth music. Sorry for the complaint.
Great series, loving it.
Cheers, Geoff
Timesaving tip . Instead of cutting all the webbing, count the sleepers in the length of track. Then remove a "block" of a fifth of them. Cut all the remaining ones and proceed as normal. Or is that impractical?
That'll Work too 😆
Having seen this video I wish I had sleeper spaced my track. But I’m too far into the build to take it back up and do it, which is a shame.
Anyway. Great video, look forward to the next instalment.
Many thanks! 😊
This might be too late for you, but I found self adhesive rolls of cork already cut into various widths on eBay which made laying the roadbed much simpler. you'd just need two next to each other and there's enough give to make the curves work.
Thanks Tom, top tip!
great video richard
Glad you enjoyed it
@@NewJunction yeah
I've been told that the closer the sleepers are are to each other the greater the line speed. Spacing the sleepers further apart will reduce the line speed.
There's a prototype for everything 😁
13:14 so may answer later in video but before I forget how for a modular layout do you lay track scenics and that do you lay add so it looks good but still can be moved
Sorry I don't understand the question?
@@NewJunction how do you make a layout that will be taken apart so you add track then cut or cut to the joins. Same for scenery
Not quite as laborious as building your own (natural next step?, was for me) but once you've gone to the effort of improving the overall p-way, you won't go back. I hope you enjoy the results. You are moving next level now.....
Thanks Iain, I don't think I'll venture to building my own track lol
@@NewJunction its worth a try, pointwork especially, there are some nice kits out there - way cheaper for one thing and can look better - if a clumsy oaf like me can do it anyone can - actual track perhaps less worthwhile (ready made is cheaper) but its not hard at all - especially with like a cork track bed, can make in sections away from the layout then install
@@aleopardstail Aye, I don't disagree. (Not the oaf bit, I don't know your work to agree or differ dear sir).
It depends on your desired outcome to an extent. Checked curvature is not represented in ready to lay and then what track you are representing by chair type is still wide open. I doubt it will bother many but concrete express formation points are not available proprietary for the masses, before we follow Alice down the rabbit hole of gauge debate.
One of the advantages of modelling in HO is not having to change the spacing to look better - phew!
Haha alright for some!
No denying the track spacing looks good, but I think you need a lot of patience, a certain amount of OCD and a 'special' kind of mind to do it! lol😀
I must be nuts haha
Good film Richard, and the spacing is a great improvement on the HO look track. Sadly not available for the pointwork.
Tell me , with the Elevation Set, do you have to put the wedges in very close together, or can you space them apart, say 8-10mm, and fill the gaps when ballasting?
Is Copydex better, easier, more expensive than PVA glue? I have only used PVA so far.
You could space out the sleeper elevation bits, I didn't want to risk it mind. Copy dex is a fast drying glue which helps when laying the track, ill use PVA when ballasting to really seal it all in. 😊
Good video and nice to see updates thanks caroline and dave ps where lulu
She was there, didn't make the cut this time sadly haha 😆
Always good to get ideas from others videos. I also use copydex as its forgiving if things dont go quite right. And who ever keeps to their planned track plan ? If you do change your mind copydex allows this without needing new track lengths ( an idea I stole from Charlie at ChadwicK)
Yep its very useful stuff 👍
Great video, I'm not sure I don't think I have the patience to get into the sleeper spacing but I keep thinking about the super elevation as I am about to relocate my railway to a much bigger purpose built 15m x 7m space. I did see Richard's video about super elevation and seem to remember he spaces his wedges at about 5mm intervals but I was just thinking if you use them without spaces as you have could they sit beneath tho cork?
Sorry if that's a stupid question.
Never a stupid question Phil, they could go under the Cork, I went above so they could be seen easier when installing.
In respect of tunnels entrances have you taken consideration of cantery? I had a class 90 and cantery was in locked down position but it flipped up during a run smacking the tunnel and taking the train off the track, I was lucky it was low speed and I had not yet fixed the Hornby tunnel face in a permanent position. I would like to know if there is recommended working height for tunnels so trains with cantery can pass with with the overhead pickup in up or down position?
Not yet but its a work in progress 😊
Thanks for this video,I got some really useful tips out of it!
I am wondering though, as for laying spaced sleeper track in a curve, wouldn’t it be easier to first place the pins so the basic curve is there and then space the sleepers. Instead of trying to space them while simultanously trying to lay the curve?
Horses for courses really, it dosent take that long wither way.
Yep it looks so much better so why don't Peco make it like that?. It would actually take less plastic.
Good question!
Because PECO are trying to “ride 2 horses” by marketing their track for both the HO market as well as the OO one.
50 years ago GEM made flexitrack with correct 00 spacing. Newer is not always better
I am currently clearing my garage in preparation for my first ever model railway next year. As you will appreciate I am on a steep learning curve and would appreciate any help that you could give.
The sleeper spacing looked great but appeared very time consuming, As your layout is new did you consider using Peco bullhead track? If not, why not?
I also watched your recent update where you soldered droppers to every piece of track. However, I believe that a few years ago you produced a video showing the use of wired fishplates. Which is the best method?
Many thanks. Adrian
As no one has answered you so far I thought I'd offer you some beginner advice. Like a lot of people here I have been doing this for 30 + years.
You never count on fishplates to conduct power. They will do so on dry track with no ballast, but the moment you use PVA and water to ballast your track the fishplates will corrode on their inside surface and stop conducting power. Power wires must always be soldered directly to rails for long term reliability.
This is why you use the longest track sections possible to cut down on the amount of bus wire connections you need to make.
@@willowsjunction7989 Many thanks for your advice. That is a great help. I will be using Peco flexitrack which will reduce the number of soldered droppers that I will need. Think I will need about 70 sections of track and 20 points, so will probably be an expert at soldering when finished.
Ah, Copydex. Smells like Fish. I got some at the recomendation of Charlie from Chadwick model railways.
I haven't laid my track yet, but I cracked the lid of the bottle (As in, somehow damaged the lid so that there's a crack in it) and the entire bottle of glue has gone solid.
Might be best to grab a new one haha
@@NewJunction Yeah, it might be best to do that.
I like your commitment, it must take a while to do. have you got any other advice for laying flexi track ? I came over from Tris at oo Neal
Flexi track is the same as this minus the spacing haha, much simpler!
Hello Richard, as well as the developing layout I'm impressed with the display cases on the wall. Can you tell me where you got them from?
I found them in my local model shop, originally they were from Picture Pride.
@@NewJunction Thank you
Very interesting video which begs the question why don't they make the track with the correct spacing in the first place? Could I just mention that as a musician I find the background music rather distracting and intrusive but maybe that's just me! Thanks for making this.
Thanks Andrew, sadly the music hides a million things lol
Notvmy cup of tea, I like the quicker route of get it down, get things moving, but it does look great. Quick question, do the turnnouts come spaced or have you got to space-time to? And I guess you'll have to paint them to match the concrete flexi
Thanks for the update, and it was good to meet you at Warley last month, stay safe & well and warm (from one garage hobbit to another)
Hi Brian, the points don't come spaced and won't be, in the real world its common to have closer sleepers on points and be made from wood... so no painting required haha
Hey Richard, question if I may. Followed your movements here and Everard Junctions, but I am finding that my Peco code 75 bullhead flexi track is behaving differently to yours. I snipped the webbing and removed every 5th sleeper but I find the Railway Laser 00 gauge is putting the sleepers closer together so I have to add quite a few sleepers to the end of the rails! The gap seems to be about 6mm between sleepers is this what you found on yours? What am I doing wrong.
Hi Richard, once you raised the curved track to apply the Copydex, how did you prevent the track from pinging back once the pins were not holding it? Thanks
I only removed the pins once the glue was dry. 😊
How does the sleeper spacing work on curves? Is the reference point on the inside / outside / centre of the sleepers?
I do it from the center and fettle until it looks okay. 😅
Love your progression of your new and progressing layout - are you planning to add together / separate layout in the new Hornby TT 120 scale ?
Not for me, OO is my gauge haha
It is already looking great, Richard! 👍🏼 I have a question: normally a track lays a bit elevated, so you can create a trackbed. Now is the cork you are using not very thick. Isn’t that a problem for the future trackbed.
It is thin however it'll be big enough for a shoulder
The sleeper spaced track looks miles better.... why isn't it already more prototypical from factory is my question.... 😉
Knowing my luck, it will be released as soon as I'm finished lol
@@NewJunction ah I see you familiar with sods law then 😉
What I find intriguing is the track manufacturer could supply it like this and consume less sleepers?
Oddly I'm told it would cost more to produce.
Hi Richard, hope all is well. Sorry to have missed you at Warley, Mike said you were gallivanting around somewhere! With regards to the elevation wedges, is it recommend to lay them side by side or can you space them slightly therefore getting more milage per pack? Keep well kiddo, regards Bobby 'T''.
They'll always be another show 😊
I put mine per sleeper as I didn't want the track drooping overtime.
Are both mainline and heritage lines totally separate or is there a gradient between the two?
@@kite7214 they're separate.
I’d noticed very early on in the video you were wrapped up, with more layers than an onion. And you commented it was cold towards the end. Are you concerned about obvious temperature fluctuations through the seasons?
Hi Martin, as long as you're prepared for it yourself and on the layout its fine. I avoid thin card kits incase of damp and create sutible expansion gaps in my track.
Is there a link between the lower and the upper tracks?
Nope, they will remain separate
I richard do you glue or tack your concrete track down?
Hi Richard. Why didn't the track manufacturer (PECO?) get the spacing right in the first place? Is the superelevation kit multigauge, or just for OO gauge?
Thats a question for Peco hehe and yes you can use the spacing bits on all gauges.. just double them up to suit.
Spacing looks good. Pity the manufacturer doesn't supply the track with the correct spacing. It would certainly make realistic track laying a lot easier.
Tell me about it!
Strange how you told me at Warley you have moved house, you seem to be in the old garage Richard. Shame that as I would have liked to buy your ‘O’ Gauge track. Andy
I have moved house, luckily the layout remains in my old garage. 😊
I'm disappointed Richard, no saxophone music in this video 🤣🎷🎷🎷🎷
Must do better, must do better! 😆
Being from the U S you had me confused for a bit calling the rail ties sleepers. But with the limited knowledge of UK trains and track you can gain from watching Thomas and Friends and occasionally playing TSW the spaced ties look better and more realistic.
Easily done! 😊
Last shot trian tilts to much to a side looks more like a pendo than a standard train would be awesome as is for WCML layout
These will need fetling some what 😊
@@NewJunction but for pendo WCML be amazing
Another great video Richard, what is the correct sleeper spacing for OO scale please, I might have a go at 3D printing my own comb tool ?
I'm not sure, I just brought the tool lol 😆
@@NewJunction Don't you own a ruler or Vernier Calipers ? :)