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Finally thank you I have a 2000 ford f150 that was sitting for 7 years and the stopped working after the mechanics changed the radiator and was deciding to work on it myself and this is the first video I found that was step by step and shows each part and piece
there are a few things you should note before starting this project: 1 - get your AC system evacuated before you break any joints. takes a few minutes and practically any garage can do it for you. this does not affect driveability 2 - take off the fan blade before the serpentine belt. Autozone and most parts stores have a tool you can borrow for a 100% refundable deposit 3 - you 100% will leak engine coolant so be prepared to capture that and not re-use it. buy new stuff. also, it's got glycol in it so it's not going to evaporate if you drip some so clean it up 4 - every component in the ac system has oil in it so be prepared to capture that as well 5 - the accumulator requires a special tool to remove it that costs about $5 at autozone or any parts store. it will likely have 4 size options and 1 will definitely fit your application 6 - if you are struggling to get the accumulator off, a little time with a torch will help loosen things up but use this as a last resort. it is common for the o-rings, and there are 2, to basically seal themselves to the inner wall of the tubing. the heat will loosen the seals. if you don't try this, i promise you the garage you take it to will do this. DON'T START THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON FIRE!!! 7 - there are 2 rubber/plastic guides on the side of the condensor. these need to go back on when you're finished. they allow the fan to suck air through the condensor when the vehicle is running but not moving. if you don't you will not get cold air 8 - the guides mentioned in note 7 are held in place by push fasteners the press into holes attached to the condensor. it is extremely likely that those holes will not be available on the replacement condensor so you will need to find another method for attaching the guides. 9 - clean as you go! you don't want debris falling onto sealing surfaces or contaminating the system when you are putting everything back together 10 - the high pressure gas tubes that connect to the compressor are very likely rusty and very brittle (your vehicle is nearly 20 years old so...). they may need to be replaced if you can't get pressure built up in the system after reassembly 11 - there are 3 bolts in the compressor. 2 are accessed from underneath and 1 through the wheel well. that's how i did it any way. the 1 bolt on the top MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE COMPRESSOR PRIOR TO INSTALLING. there is not enough room to get the bolt in place when the compressor is back in place. save some time and put the top bolt in before sliding the compressor in place 12 - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE COMPRESSOR!!! there is a sticker on the compressor that says how much oil is preloaded. the instructions will tell you the total amount required for proper operation. mine came with 3 ounces. the bottle of oil i bought had 8 ounces. the compressor required 9. i did absolutely measure out and add exactly 6 ounces prior to installing the compressor 13 - if at any point you get stuck or frustrated, stop. the vehicle still drives perfectly fine after putting the belt back on. of course that will require the compressor to be installed. it is better to suck it up and bring it in then cause permanent damage out of frustration. lastly, and most importantly, this is a job that can be done with a very basic set of tools and will take the average garage mechanic 6-8 hours. it is totally doable and very fulfilling. when you take your system in to get charged the mechanic will definitely respect the skills. mine did.
I am concluding a 2002 F150 5.4 air conditioning system replacement. 100% new. The dash board removal was awful time consuming. I changed the heater core while it was disassembled. The orifice tube was jammed packed with more debris than what you encountered in this videos. Accordingly, I didn’t believe a flush would suffice, hence the 100% new parts. However, the core inside the dashboard was pristine when I flushed it. Ultimately the core and the dashboard did not require replacement because of the orifice tube and the heater core was pristine as well. Cautious exercises to protect a new system was unnecessary but I wouldn’t be satisfied with uncertainty. Your video was very helpful. Thank you.
Was considering doing it myself. Now that Ive seen your video, I'm taking it to a shop to have this done. Ive had my 1998 Expedition since 2000 and i'm not getting rid of it. Some may think im crazy paying more than what its worth to have the a/c blow cold, but it is what it is. The cost of this repair is less than buying a new car. Thanks for the video.
I was able to replace the entire AC system on my 2000 F-150 thanks to your video! I was able to do it without taking the fan off and the top coolant hose. For those thinking of doing it, it can be done! Thank you for putting this video together!
Dont dance with it... Pull the right front wheel and wheel liner. Remove the bolt that holds the harness to the frame so the harness will move. From underneath, remove the belt and the bottom 2 compressor bolts. From through the wheel well remove the top bolt and the lines. Move the compressor forward, drop the nose down and pull it out over the frame rail through the wheel opening. (I like to go ahead and unplug the crank sensor harness to keep it out of the way and avoid damaging the sensor) You can also easily access the hoses and orifice tube from there. There is no need to remove the upper radiator hose to remove the condenser - remove the radiator brackets, the condenser brackets, and remove the condenser by raising the left (drivers side) up first. The accumulator is the hardest part of the entire job. Slightly easier to get to the one bolted line and the bracket from underneath but there is still a ton of crap on top to fight with.
Thank you! Because of this video I was able to put ac in my 1999 F-150 after almost 3 years without. Hardest part of the job was the accumulator by far! Thanks for a detailed video on this process it made this way cheaper for me then it would have been at the shop. Just over $400 later and my ac is blasting cold 🥶 👍🏻
If you place the compressor completely vertical underneath the truck, slide it part way up and turn it 90 degrees it will slide right up behind the steering linkage and cross member into place. No messing with the fan. No unbolting the idler arm although it does give you a bit more room if you do. Works on 2 and 4WD.
One thing to remember that I did not see you do. Is to rotate the front of the new compressor 6-10 times to make sure the oil is throughout the whole compressor, otherwise it could fail on the very 1st use because it has none in it;s system. Other than that great vid!
Big job. 2 little nuggets though, its much easier to get the compressor out by removing the 2 21mm bolts that hold the steering linkage to the frame on the drinkers side. Also, by removing the inner finder, the accumulator is a piece of cake. Great video.
I just finished my 2001 F150 4x4 Supercab today. I spent about 3 hours last night trying to get the thing mounted back up. No luck.... Went back out this morning and after about 2 hrs it finally lined up. Def not that easy by yourself. I removed the idler arm which gives more room. Went and bought vac pump and gave set tonight to finish tom. Everywhere wanted me to leave my truck and I'm like NO. I have a Universal Refrigerant license so all good. I just don't work in that field anymore.
Loved the video, it will really help me with my A/C replacement. About to replace the whole A/C system in my 2001 Ford F150, 5.4 L. At what point do you flush the system and what flush do you recommend? When adding oil do you add all the oil needed for the system to the compressor or do you need to add the oil to the dryer and condenser as well?
I really rarely flush a/c systems...but I'm also not a mechanic. I like to use air and if it blows freely I hook it all up and call it a day. Oil they usually say to add it all to the compressor. Half the time you won't be able to get it all in there though so I'll put some in every component I'm able to access
Great Video and much appreciated. That edit you made on Condenser not Radiator made me laugh. I watched it 3 times, thinking 'that's not the radiator' and on the 3rd time only did I notice the words starting me in the face! LOL!
Did you add oil into the accumulator too? I watched another video where the guy claimed you had to drill a hole in the bottom of the accumulator and measure the oil that comes out, replacing the same amount into the new accumulator. I have the exact same job you did coming soon. My my system was open for several years. with a large manifold hose failure, so replacing all the equipment you did.
If you are replacing all components you need to add the whole amount listed on the sticker under the hood. If system has been leaking then the oil has leaked out as well and the measuring "trick" is not accurate.
I have a 2001 ford expedition with a 5.4 liter triton engine also and want to change the compressor only, how many cans of freon does it take? Thanks for the video already gave u thumbs up.
I wish I could answer that question for you! Typically if you are lucky you find a sticker attached under the hood somewhere that will tell you both refrigerant and oil types and capacities
Great tip! Saved me some time and aggravation for sure. I didn't have to take the wheel off, but that was probably because I took the fender off for refinishing, along with the inner splash guard fender gizmo.
I don't know if you can help but the hard to get bolt you talked about on the A/C compressor is stripped. I have tried bolt socket extractors and a chisel. My lest resort would be to completely cut the bolt head off but I'm worried and won't be able to pull the compressor with the frame so close and the rest of bolt still in it. Any suggestions would help. Thanks and great video!
Hmm tough spot you are in lol. If you have a welder you could weld a nut to the bolt head. Or possibly get away with vice grips and a torch. Maybe some others will pop up with some good ideas. Maybe cut head of bolt off and let compressor slid down a bit then Sawzall the other end off. Idk
My 2002 F150 has a 3" body lift + 4" suspension lift, I removed the ground strap on the frame and the compressor slipped out between the fan shroud and up and over the frame out through the wheel well.
How exactly do you get the second bolt in the back of the compressor off? I cant get it with anything because the spot is so tight and my ratchet wont fit. Everything else i try is trying to round the bolt off, did you all have that problem?
How many oz of r134 did you charge with? Sticker says 33oz. I replaced condenser, manifold lines, orifice, dryer and compressor. Oiled correctly, vacuumed down for about 2 hours, let it sit for another hour with no movement on gauge. Charged it up at 33oz and it will not get cooler than 50. Pressures are about 50/275 at 90 outside.
@@AGuyandHisProjects thx for getting back sir! It does not pull out and I gather the clip isn’t broken lol… and have to be gumby to even get to it without taking 2-3 things off.. any ideas of easiest way? Much appreciated
@@wolfkat6492 no problem! Typically a long thin screwdriver to pull the tab out of the way. If no good angle then a little tiny flat screwdriver sometimes gets you closer. You can also drop a tad of lubricant in the area sometimes first to break the crust up
@@wolfkat6492 by unplugging the compressor? I am not a mechanic by any means, but I don't think that would help. If the clutch is seizing up with will be seized with or without electrical being hooked up. When the clutch is not pulled in (a/c off) the pulley should spin freely. If it isn't then you need to replace it or get some kind of bypass kit I would think.
Your video edit cut out, like the movie theater power going out right at the point when the hero says "whatever you do don't". What did you flush the ac lines with?
Thanks for watching! We flushed each lone by itself with high pressure air. This is NOT how you are supposed to donit which is why I didn't film it lol.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Most cars (1996 and newer) have channels way too small for a flush to be useful and most (including compressor manufacturers) recommend replacing the evaporator and condenser. They are made cheap these days with smaller pathways so a flush is a waste of time and money.
@@apathetic25 indeed you speak truth! Depends on how much damage. If you had a complete internal failure or if you caught it in the failing stage I suppose. Ultimately for peace of mind if you have the money changing the entire system out would eliminate any worries lol
That's a pretty rough situation right there...you get it resolved yet? Maybe a sawsall to cut the bolt off to remove the compressor and then drill out the bolt?
@@AGuyandHisProjects ended up cutting the compressor off, bolts were seized in the compressor and not the block luckily. Installing everything right now actually.
Can I get your opinion on the Valeo ac compressor. I decided to change it out myself because I don't feel like giving up the cash for someone else to replace it on my 1998 Expedition. I was looking at the Motorcraft version but those things are too high. I don't want to spend $300, but I don't want to have to replace the Valeo in 2-3 years. What has your experience been with this brand of compressor? FYI, I want to purchase a brand new one. No more remans. My reman compressor last 2 years, maybe....
Thanks for watching! These have been alright in my experience, however if you want it to be done with forever I'd go Motorcraft or maybe denso. Oem is definetly better than aftermarket with my experience.
I hear you. I'm definitely down with, "Buy once. Cry once" @@AGuyandHisProjects. I'll just take the hit and get the Motorcraft if I cant find a new Denso. Thanks.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Im not a mechanic either, but I have heard good things about Denso replacement parts for years. Plus, your done a dozen more than I have. I have bought Denso coils for my wifes Mazda 6 and they haven't failed us yet. I didn't think that they were competitive in the ac compressor market as well until now. The prices on these new ac compressor units are not that much cheaper than Motorcraft. Brand new Denso for my truck is $291. Seen some advertised new for $193 but I suspect that they have remanufactured parts in them. I am not screwing with those. Anyhow. Thanks for your opinion on the matter, and keep up the great work on the instructional videos.
We blasted some air through. I think most prefer to use a chemical flush. Be warned however that many manufacturers do not recommend the chemical flush lol. Remember, I am not a mechanic
7 minutes 30 seconds in you said put the clip on to remove did you mean take clip off ? Do you need a special tool to remove the accumulator from the firewall or do you just twist in pull after that clip is off?
Bad phrasing on my part. Yes a "special" tool that i referred to as a clip. It is simply a plastic tool used to slide over the coupling and release a spring inside the coupling. Most auto parts stores will have the tool and if i remember correctly you buy a whole kit for like $10
Oh ok sweet I'm glad I asked. Also In the video you said after like 5 hours you got the accumulator out Do you have any tips that might help me get it out
Haha so it felt like 5 hours for sure but it wasnt that long. Was certainly the most difficult part of the whole process though. I think we finally got it by not being afraid to break it. Slide that tool in and wiggle/pull like crazy
@AGuyandHisProjects Just checking. lol I'm working on a 2002 F150 a/c system I just bought. Held charge 2 days and afraid it's either the compressor or the dreaded evaporator as I can't see any tale tell signs of any oily residue externally. Have a sniffer on the way to search.
Thanks for watching! Typically it doesn't matter, once you have the system all sealed up and before you vacuum you will manually spin the clutch 8 or so times to get the oil to spread a little bit
You would have to look at any sticker you have under the hood. Should have refrigerant capacity as well as oil capacity. Every engine and model and some years are different.
If all else fails and you dont have a sticker I have had puck calling my local dealer and asking them, they can usually look it up in their database with the vin #
Thanks for watching! No I did not, as I have my 609 card and I know how "intricate" the system is I would recommend you take it in for the vacuum/charge part of the repair.
You need a way to pull a vacuum on the system first. You don't want any air in the system , only freon. They aren't cheap to obtain, even though they should be. Charging the sytem is easy, just do a bit of research online and you can find out what the gauges should read...AFTER you've vacummed the system down.
@@loganf1507 oh shoot that is very dependent on weather a guy is dedicated to your truck or is split jumping on others through the day lol. One of the reason I do my own stuff is because I can do it in less time than a shop. Nothing against shops...when I'm working in mine that is my only job and only priority. A shop has all kinds of distractions and interruptions
What about the evaporator core? Is some of the metal fragments left in the evaporator if you don't change it? My freon just leaked down. The compressor is still good. Truck had 53,000 miles when I bought it total wrecked, It set up for 5 years. Then I changed the frame leaving the A/C intact and A/C needed a little charge and afterward worked a few years and leaked down. Added some 134 and stop leak and got the A/C blowing cold for a year but last year it leaked down, and I have been driving without it this year. We had record 100 degrees plus heat here in New Orleans for a couple of weeks and forecast more to come. I turned on a fan mounted on my sun visor, and it felt like I was in front of a heater. So looking to get the A/C working. Guess I need to shoot some dye in the system and see if I can see where the leak is. Maybe fix the leak and change all the O rings, replace drier accumulator and orifice tube then evacuate and add Freon. Hoping the leak is not in the evaporator core. IF so probably have to remove the dash to replace evaporator. I got a 2000 F150 with only 116,000 miles. and I used the A/C sparingly so figure the compressor should have plenty of wear left on it. Any suggestions?
If the compressor hasn't seized up and started spitting metal I wouldn't imagine needing to worry about the evaporator. Pulling it all apart and replacing drier and office tube is a standard maintenance item you could do though.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yeah, I did not intend on changing the evaporator unless it is leaking. I was asking about your job changing all the parts out. I guess with the evaporator under the dash it would be too much work and costly to change the evaporator unless absolutely necessary. You say you flushed your system out with air so I guess if any metal was left in the evaporator the air would thrust most of it out. If any minuscule particles were missed, they would likely be caught by the orifice tube filter once the system was charged and cycled.
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6 I just need to replace the ac compressor and clutch but after watching this..im not sure I want to tackle it at all lol
My plug to my compressor is hard to get off… does it just pull off or is there a clip of some sort?
Finally thank you I have a 2000 ford f150 that was sitting for 7 years and the stopped working after the mechanics changed the radiator and was deciding to work on it myself and this is the first video I found that was step by step and shows each part and piece
Glad I could help!
there are a few things you should note before starting this project:
1 - get your AC system evacuated before you break any joints. takes a few minutes and practically any garage can do it for you. this does not affect driveability
2 - take off the fan blade before the serpentine belt. Autozone and most parts stores have a tool you can borrow for a 100% refundable deposit
3 - you 100% will leak engine coolant so be prepared to capture that and not re-use it. buy new stuff. also, it's got glycol in it so it's not going to evaporate if you drip some so clean it up
4 - every component in the ac system has oil in it so be prepared to capture that as well
5 - the accumulator requires a special tool to remove it that costs about $5 at autozone or any parts store. it will likely have 4 size options and 1 will definitely fit your application
6 - if you are struggling to get the accumulator off, a little time with a torch will help loosen things up but use this as a last resort. it is common for the o-rings, and there are 2, to basically seal themselves to the inner wall of the tubing. the heat will loosen the seals. if you don't try this, i promise you the garage you take it to will do this. DON'T START THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON FIRE!!!
7 - there are 2 rubber/plastic guides on the side of the condensor. these need to go back on when you're finished. they allow the fan to suck air through the condensor when the vehicle is running but not moving. if you don't you will not get cold air
8 - the guides mentioned in note 7 are held in place by push fasteners the press into holes attached to the condensor. it is extremely likely that those holes will not be available on the replacement condensor so you will need to find another method for attaching the guides.
9 - clean as you go! you don't want debris falling onto sealing surfaces or contaminating the system when you are putting everything back together
10 - the high pressure gas tubes that connect to the compressor are very likely rusty and very brittle (your vehicle is nearly 20 years old so...). they may need to be replaced if you can't get pressure built up in the system after reassembly
11 - there are 3 bolts in the compressor. 2 are accessed from underneath and 1 through the wheel well. that's how i did it any way. the 1 bolt on the top MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE COMPRESSOR PRIOR TO INSTALLING. there is not enough room to get the bolt in place when the compressor is back in place. save some time and put the top bolt in before sliding the compressor in place
12 - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE COMPRESSOR!!! there is a sticker on the compressor that says how much oil is preloaded. the instructions will tell you the total amount required for proper operation. mine came with 3 ounces. the bottle of oil i bought had 8 ounces. the compressor required 9. i did absolutely measure out and add exactly 6 ounces prior to installing the compressor
13 - if at any point you get stuck or frustrated, stop. the vehicle still drives perfectly fine after putting the belt back on. of course that will require the compressor to be installed. it is better to suck it up and bring it in then cause permanent damage out of frustration.
lastly, and most importantly, this is a job that can be done with a very basic set of tools and will take the average garage mechanic 6-8 hours. it is totally doable and very fulfilling. when you take your system in to get charged the mechanic will definitely respect the skills. mine did.
Thank you for the thought out comment! Yes it is indeed very rewarding!
I am concluding a 2002 F150 5.4 air conditioning system replacement. 100% new. The dash board removal was awful time consuming. I changed the heater core while it was disassembled. The orifice tube was jammed packed with more debris than what you encountered in this videos. Accordingly, I didn’t believe a flush would suffice, hence the 100% new parts. However, the core inside the dashboard was pristine when I flushed it. Ultimately the core and the dashboard did not require replacement because of the orifice tube and the heater core was pristine as well. Cautious exercises to protect a new system was unnecessary but I wouldn’t be satisfied with uncertainty. Your video was very helpful. Thank you.
Glad I could help! Good call on taking care of the heater core while you were in there. Do it now or do it again later
Was considering doing it myself. Now that Ive seen your video, I'm taking it to a shop to have this done. Ive had my 1998 Expedition since 2000 and i'm not getting rid of it. Some may think im crazy paying more than what its worth to have the a/c blow cold, but it is what it is. The cost of this repair is less than buying a new car. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! No shame in paying somebody else. Value is different for every individual, when it comes to comfort, many things are worth it lol
I was able to replace the entire AC system on my 2000 F-150 thanks to your video! I was able to do it without taking the fan off and the top coolant hose. For those thinking of doing it, it can be done! Thank you for putting this video together!
Heck yeah! Glad I can help 👊
I literally followed this video and changed out everything ALL BY MYSELF!!! THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! YOU CHANGED MY LIFE AND SAVED ME 1K!!!!!
Heck yeah, that is what I like to hear! Glad I could help :)
Dont dance with it...
Pull the right front wheel and wheel liner.
Remove the bolt that holds the harness to the frame so the harness will move.
From underneath, remove the belt and the bottom 2 compressor bolts.
From through the wheel well remove the top bolt and the lines. Move the compressor forward, drop the nose down and pull it out over the frame rail through the wheel opening. (I like to go ahead and unplug the crank sensor harness to keep it out of the way and avoid damaging the sensor)
You can also easily access the hoses and orifice tube from there.
There is no need to remove the upper radiator hose to remove the condenser - remove the radiator brackets, the condenser brackets, and remove the condenser by raising the left (drivers side) up first.
The accumulator is the hardest part of the entire job. Slightly easier to get to the one bolted line and the bracket from underneath but there is still a ton of crap on top to fight with.
Tha is for watching and the thorough comment! I absolutely agree that the accumulator is the hardest part 😆
Thank you! Because of this video I was able to put ac in my 1999 F-150 after almost 3 years without. Hardest part of the job was the accumulator by far! Thanks for a detailed video on this process it made this way cheaper for me then it would have been at the shop. Just over $400 later and my ac is blasting cold 🥶 👍🏻
Heck yeah! That is what I like to hear :D. Thanks for watching and the comment!
If you place the compressor completely vertical underneath the truck, slide it part way up and turn it 90 degrees it will slide right up behind the steering linkage and cross member into place. No messing with the fan. No unbolting the idler arm although it does give you a bit more room if you do. Works on 2 and 4WD.
Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully it'll help other out reading the comments
One thing to remember that I did not see you do. Is to rotate the front of the new compressor 6-10 times to make sure the oil is throughout the whole compressor, otherwise it could fail on the very 1st use because it has none in it;s system. Other than that great vid!
Thanks for watching! Valid point!
Wd40 behind the quick connect helped alot after 5 hours of messing with it😂
Hey, that's a good idea!
Big job. 2 little nuggets though, its much easier to get the compressor out by removing the 2 21mm bolts that hold the steering linkage to the frame on the drinkers side. Also, by removing the inner finder, the accumulator is a piece of cake. Great video.
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate the advice and hopefully others will take advantage of it as they scan through the comments as well :)
The drinkers side… I love it!
@@wolfkat6492 LoL....southern slang at its finest.
Great job guys!! Mine is a 2001 4.7 XLT im going to pump in some refrigerant soon and if it doesn't work i may have to do the same as you.
Thanks! Hope we were able to help. Remember though, we are not mechanics in any way!
I just finished my 2001 F150 4x4 Supercab today. I spent about 3 hours last night trying to get the thing mounted back up. No luck.... Went back out this morning and after about 2 hrs it finally lined up. Def not that easy by yourself. I removed the idler arm which gives more room. Went and bought vac pump and gave set tonight to finish tom. Everywhere wanted me to leave my truck and I'm like NO. I have a Universal Refrigerant license so all good. I just don't work in that field anymore.
Way more satisfying to do yourself as well
"Okay in about 5 hours when you get that line disconnected" 😂 that's the truth
Haha!
Nice work guys.
Thanks!
Sweet video im gonna tackle this project. Thanks for the video !
Anytime! Best of luck! Hardest part for us was the refrigerant line at the firewall
@@AGuyandHisProjects Good to know. Thanks ! Ford Tough !
Loved the video, it will really help me with my A/C replacement. About to replace the whole A/C system in my 2001 Ford F150, 5.4 L. At what point do you flush the system and what flush do you recommend? When adding oil do you add all the oil needed for the system to the compressor or do you need to add the oil to the dryer and condenser as well?
I really rarely flush a/c systems...but I'm also not a mechanic. I like to use air and if it blows freely I hook it all up and call it a day. Oil they usually say to add it all to the compressor. Half the time you won't be able to get it all in there though so I'll put some in every component I'm able to access
Great Video and much appreciated. That edit you made on Condenser not Radiator made me laugh. I watched it 3 times, thinking 'that's not the radiator' and on the 3rd time only did I notice the words starting me in the face! LOL!
Haha! Thanks for watching and glad I could help :) Let me know how it goes when you do yours!
That truck is fucking gorgeoussssss
Indeed!
Did you add oil into the accumulator too? I watched another video where the guy claimed you had to drill a hole in the bottom of the accumulator and measure the oil that comes out, replacing the same amount into the new accumulator. I have the exact same job you did coming soon. My my system was open for several years. with a large manifold hose failure, so replacing all the equipment you did.
If you are replacing all components you need to add the whole amount listed on the sticker under the hood. If system has been leaking then the oil has leaked out as well and the measuring "trick" is not accurate.
I have a 2001 ford expedition with a 5.4 liter triton engine also and want to change the compressor only, how many cans of freon does it take? Thanks for the video already gave u thumbs up.
I wish I could answer that question for you! Typically if you are lucky you find a sticker attached under the hood somewhere that will tell you both refrigerant and oil types and capacities
Helpful video...thank you
Most welcome!
You can get the compressor out just by cranking your wheel all the way to the right and taking the passenger tire off!
Good to know!
Great tip! Saved me some time and aggravation for sure. I didn't have to take the wheel off, but that was probably because I took the fender off for refinishing, along with the inner splash guard fender gizmo.
Can’t get the top single bolt off it’s in an awkward position. How did you get all 3 compressor bolts off?
It's been a hot minute since this one. I don't remember struggling with that though
I don't know if you can help but the hard to get bolt you talked about on the A/C compressor is stripped. I have tried bolt socket extractors and a chisel. My lest resort would be to completely cut the bolt head off but I'm worried and won't be able to pull the compressor with the frame so close and the rest of bolt still in it. Any suggestions would help. Thanks and great video!
Hmm tough spot you are in lol. If you have a welder you could weld a nut to the bolt head. Or possibly get away with vice grips and a torch. Maybe some others will pop up with some good ideas. Maybe cut head of bolt off and let compressor slid down a bit then Sawzall the other end off. Idk
My 2002 F150 has a 3" body lift + 4" suspension lift, I removed the ground strap on the frame and the compressor slipped out between the fan shroud and up and over the frame out through the wheel well.
Thanks for sharing that info!
Can you tell me what lift you used for this ford? I’m looking for same height and wheel tire ratio
Thanks for watching!
It's a 6 inch fabtech lift with 37" tires. 1" spacers, A little trimming at bottom of fenders to keep from rubbing
Nitto Mud Grapplers 37x13.50 R17
Does anyone know what o-ring size is on the line where the orifice tube is? It has black o- ring but I'm not seeing them on RockAuto.
Hopefully somebody can help you out!
This video is incredible! I'm almost to compressor removal and this thing is gospel. Do you want me to post the parts list from autozone?
Thanks for the feedback! You are more than welcome to post your parts list!
How exactly do you get the second bolt in the back of the compressor off? I cant get it with anything because the spot is so tight and my ratchet wont fit. Everything else i try is trying to round the bolt off, did you all have that problem?
Yeah I vaguely remember that issue. I think we used a 1/4" ratchet and spent a lot of time making small movements
How many oz of r134 did you charge with? Sticker says 33oz. I replaced condenser, manifold lines, orifice, dryer and compressor. Oiled correctly, vacuumed down for about 2 hours, let it sit for another hour with no movement on gauge. Charged it up at 33oz and it will not get cooler than 50. Pressures are about 50/275 at 90 outside.
Shoot it has been a long time since we did this one. I do not remember how much we charged it to unfortunately
Great Video !!
Thanks! Hope it helped
I just want to unplug wire leading to ac compressor… does it just pull out or is it a clip plug?
It'll have a clip on it if it isn't already broken!
@@AGuyandHisProjects thx for getting back sir! It does not pull out and I gather the clip isn’t broken lol… and have to be gumby to even get to it without taking 2-3 things off.. any ideas of easiest way? Much appreciated
@@wolfkat6492 no problem! Typically a long thin screwdriver to pull the tab out of the way. If no good angle then a little tiny flat screwdriver sometimes gets you closer. You can also drop a tad of lubricant in the area sometimes first to break the crust up
@@AGuyandHisProjects thanks again bud! Will give it a shot.. would the pulley spin more freely and keep my belt safe?
@@wolfkat6492 by unplugging the compressor? I am not a mechanic by any means, but I don't think that would help. If the clutch is seizing up with will be seized with or without electrical being hooked up. When the clutch is not pulled in (a/c off) the pulley should spin freely. If it isn't then you need to replace it or get some kind of bypass kit I would think.
Your video edit cut out, like the movie theater power going out right at the point when the hero says "whatever you do don't". What did you flush the ac lines with?
Thanks for watching! We flushed each lone by itself with high pressure air. This is NOT how you are supposed to donit which is why I didn't film it lol.
Thanks
Shalom How Did U Get That Accumulator Loose With That Discount Tool?Does Tha Tool Have To Go In Tha Fire Wall With End Going Inside Tha Wall?
Thanks for watching! No not into the firewall, just have to get it to fit into the coupling
How high is the lift and wheel and tire size? I have the exact same truck but stock and looking to lift it
I don't remember what lift he is running, but those are 37" tires
👍🏾
Thanks!
That was a great video Thank You. Im in Gilbert AZ. Can you change mine out?
Thanks for the compliment! Hadn't really thought about hiring out as I am not a mechanic in any way or form lol
If you have 2wd, drop the idler arm and pull compressor from underneath.
Got a link to a video?
Thanks for the comment to help others out!
Is changing out the compressor much different on a 2005 f 150?
If your engine bay looks the same it is probably similar. I can't answer your question with certainty though
how about the evaporator? could it have metal bits in it too?
Indeed it can! In my experience a high pressure air flush usually works If you have the orfice tube, compressor, and drier all removed
@@AGuyandHisProjects Most cars (1996 and newer) have channels way too small for a flush to be useful and most (including compressor manufacturers) recommend replacing the evaporator and condenser. They are made cheap these days with smaller pathways so a flush is a waste of time and money.
@@apathetic25 indeed you speak truth! Depends on how much damage. If you had a complete internal failure or if you caught it in the failing stage I suppose. Ultimately for peace of mind if you have the money changing the entire system out would eliminate any worries lol
Lower rear bolt is snapped. Don’t know what to do now.
That's a pretty rough situation right there...you get it resolved yet? Maybe a sawsall to cut the bolt off to remove the compressor and then drill out the bolt?
@@AGuyandHisProjects ended up cutting the compressor off, bolts were seized in the compressor and not the block luckily. Installing everything right now actually.
@@taylormalesky2549 dang, you did get lucky! Glad it is working out!
Can I get your opinion on the Valeo ac compressor. I decided to change it out myself because I don't feel like giving up the cash for someone else to replace it on my 1998 Expedition. I was looking at the Motorcraft version but those things are too high. I don't want to spend $300, but I don't want to have to replace the Valeo in 2-3 years. What has your experience been with this brand of compressor? FYI, I want to purchase a brand new one. No more remans. My reman compressor last 2 years, maybe....
Thanks for watching! These have been alright in my experience, however if you want it to be done with forever I'd go Motorcraft or maybe denso. Oem is definetly better than aftermarket with my experience.
I hear you. I'm definitely down with, "Buy once. Cry once" @@AGuyandHisProjects. I'll just take the hit and get the Motorcraft if I cant find a new Denso. Thanks.
You are welcome! Keep in mine I am not a mechanic and have only done a dozen or so of these.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Im not a mechanic either, but I have heard good things about Denso replacement parts for years. Plus, your done a dozen more than I have. I have bought Denso coils for my wifes Mazda 6 and they haven't failed us yet. I didn't think that they were competitive in the ac compressor market as well until now. The prices on these new ac compressor units are not that much cheaper than Motorcraft. Brand new Denso for my truck is $291. Seen some advertised new for $193 but I suspect that they have remanufactured parts in them. I am not screwing with those. Anyhow. Thanks for your opinion on the matter, and keep up the great work on the instructional videos.
@@nytshade2 thanks! I am not a fan of the reman either. Too many bad ones
did you clean the lines? if so how?
We blasted some air through. I think most prefer to use a chemical flush. Be warned however that many manufacturers do not recommend the chemical flush lol. Remember, I am not a mechanic
What did you flush the system with
I just used Air on this one. Many will recommend you use a chemical flush though
I managed to remove my compressor through the wheel well...2001 f150 quad cab
I've hear a few people say this now, glad there are more than just one way
I am assuming removing the wheel ?
What els did you have to remove ?
Is it a 5.4 triton
@milfordcubicle4127 yes it is a 5.4 triton
7 minutes 30 seconds in you said put the clip on to remove did you mean take clip off ? Do you need a special tool to remove the accumulator from the firewall or do you just twist in pull after that clip is off?
Bad phrasing on my part. Yes a "special" tool that i referred to as a clip. It is simply a plastic tool used to slide over the coupling and release a spring inside the coupling. Most auto parts stores will have the tool and if i remember correctly you buy a whole kit for like $10
Oh ok sweet I'm glad I asked. Also In the video you said after like 5 hours you got the accumulator out Do you have any tips that might help me get it out
Haha so it felt like 5 hours for sure but it wasnt that long. Was certainly the most difficult part of the whole process though. I think we finally got it by not being afraid to break it. Slide that tool in and wiggle/pull like crazy
Didn't see you flush the system before assembly
Yep, I did not show that part, that is correct.
@AGuyandHisProjects Just checking. lol I'm working on a 2002 F150 a/c system I just bought. Held charge 2 days and afraid it's either the compressor or the dreaded evaporator as I can't see any tale tell signs of any oily residue externally. Have a sniffer on the way to search.
How long did it take
With the two of us, the camera, parts run, lunch, and all that about half the day.
Hi, in which hole goes the refrigerante oil ....??
Thanks for watching! Typically it doesn't matter, once you have the system all sealed up and before you vacuum you will manually spin the clutch 8 or so times to get the oil to spread a little bit
@@AGuyandHisProjects Thanks for your help....Here's another question....How many onces are needed if the compressor is empty?
You would have to look at any sticker you have under the hood. Should have refrigerant capacity as well as oil capacity. Every engine and model and some years are different.
If all else fails and you dont have a sticker I have had puck calling my local dealer and asking them, they can usually look it up in their database with the vin #
@@AGuyandHisProjects Mi car is 1996 Mercury, Grand Marquis SL...(Old one like me...:)..).....Is a 8 cylinders, 4.6 liter...
Did you clean the lines after all ? Not criticizing just asking lol
Only high pressure air. Not a chemical flush no. Controversial topic I know! Lol.
@@AGuyandHisProjects I'd say the oil will protect that compressor regardless , thanks for the reply!
@@BuhdFrankDaTank93 Thanks for watching. Theoretically if there were metal chunks we missed in the lines then the compressor would indeed be at risk.
You never showed how You charged Your system ?
Thanks for watching! No I did not, as I have my 609 card and I know how "intricate" the system is I would recommend you take it in for the vacuum/charge part of the repair.
You need a way to pull a vacuum on the system first. You don't want any air in the system , only freon. They aren't cheap to obtain, even though they should be. Charging the sytem is easy, just do a bit of research online and you can find out what the gauges should read...AFTER you've vacummed the system down.
do you have a parts list?
That would have been a fantastic idea! But no, I did not put one together.
I hate working on ac
Ditto
You didn’t install any new o rings ?
Yep, new o rings all the way around !
Damson
Hahaha, it is a pretty good looking truck
Why did you skip the line flush??
Didn't skip the process...just didn't get it on the camera as we did not do it the traditionally "proper" way lol.
@@AGuyandHisProjects AKA fuck environmental safety laws
@@HandMadeWrath lol
how long did it take?
It'll probably take a good few hours to replace everything
@@AGuyandHisProjects mines in the shop and he’s been working on it all day i was just wondering if i would get it back today
@@loganf1507 oh shoot that is very dependent on weather a guy is dedicated to your truck or is split jumping on others through the day lol. One of the reason I do my own stuff is because I can do it in less time than a shop. Nothing against shops...when I'm working in mine that is my only job and only priority. A shop has all kinds of distractions and interruptions
@@AGuyandHisProjects true he got the spark plugs done on it yesterday but i agree
Long ass video but you don't say what side to put the oil in on the compressor
Oh dang! I'll remember that for next time!
What about the evaporator core? Is some of the metal fragments left in the evaporator if you don't change it? My freon just leaked down. The compressor is still good. Truck had 53,000 miles when I bought it total wrecked, It set up for 5 years. Then I changed the frame leaving the A/C intact and A/C needed a little charge and afterward worked a few years and leaked down. Added some 134 and stop leak and got the A/C blowing cold for a year but last year it leaked down, and I have been driving without it this year. We had record 100 degrees plus heat here in New Orleans for a couple of weeks and forecast more to come. I turned on a fan mounted on my sun visor, and it felt like I was in front of a heater. So looking to get the A/C working. Guess I need to shoot some dye in the system and see if I can see where the leak is. Maybe fix the leak and change all the O rings, replace drier accumulator and orifice tube then evacuate and add Freon. Hoping the leak is not in the evaporator core. IF so probably have to remove the dash to replace evaporator. I got a 2000 F150 with only 116,000 miles. and I used the A/C sparingly so figure the compressor should have plenty of wear left on it. Any suggestions?
If the compressor hasn't seized up and started spitting metal I wouldn't imagine needing to worry about the evaporator. Pulling it all apart and replacing drier and office tube is a standard maintenance item you could do though.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yeah, I did not intend on changing the evaporator unless it is leaking. I was asking about your job changing all the parts out. I guess with the evaporator under the dash it would be too much work and costly to change the evaporator unless absolutely necessary. You say you flushed your system out with air so I guess if any metal was left in the evaporator the air would thrust most of it out. If any minuscule particles were missed, they would likely be caught by the orifice tube filter once the system was charged and cycled.
Question can I just change the compressor from the f150 and not the little tank in the back ???
Can you skip it? Yes. Should you skip it? I wouldn't. It removes moisture from system. To allow for proper cooling so it is important