When learning I went through a lot of chains and bars prematurely. I always blamed my sharpening skills on crooked cuts only to realize it was a lack of proper bar maintenance. Tons of good information here!
I had to watch a few parts twice, one was to see if the bar was overheated. That bar was overheated because it had more than just the rail hardening discoloration. The other part was to see the wear behind the nose of the bar. You did a great job explaining the cleaning, burr removal, and different examples of damage.
I'm a mechanic myself and I'm sorry to say that I didn't learn anything new this time.But you are so lovely so watch and listen to so I had to watch it anyway.You would be a great teacher.calm and meticulous.Keep up the good work and stay safe. cut som firewood today with my old 036.That saw will never die.
I’ve attempted straightening a warped bar. I don’t advise it. Especially don’t use heat. It works, but it’s not good practice. Good practice is knowing how not to damage the bar in the first place. Understanding what the saw can and cannot (shouldn’t) do goes a LONG way. Thanks again 😬
Just took my MS311 and MS391 apart blew them both out, MS391 is brand new but the 311 bar needed a little filing from use! Ready for the season in Northern Michigan!!
Chain and bar maintenance (and sprocket) are essential for sawyers - treeple living by the saw - I have seen slow mo videos of how chains move along the guide-bar at different tensions and loads - it is fascinating. Lots to learn. The topic is not as exciting as some but hugely important- thanks for taking it on...all the best
Always a pleasure to see you, love, but I can't watch the whole thing now, as I have zeroturn mower _maintenance_ to do on this lovely late afternoon....actually, I'll continue this when I get out there 😉
Well done Flex 💪! An additional step imho ... After I’ve cleaned the bar , groove and oil hole and checked for burrs I fit the chain and sharpen it - then I spray the links with some lubricant like wd40 and go outside and burp the throttle until oil begins dripping from the saw / chain throws oil from top of chain - this way I know that everything is lubed and ready for the next cutting session , maybe not necessary but I’ve had excellent results with this method(just makes sure to set saw on newspapers to soak up oil ) Also make sure to keep a sharp chain and the rakers set properly. A dull chain/ with improperly set rakers will accelerate wear in the bar groove - not good ... The bar should last long time this way , in fact I’ve got bars with 100face cord on them and counting. Also stay with the STIHL bar or if you can afford it a Cannon superbar. Budget bars are cheaper up front but a false economy imho 😀
Also a good idea to check with a small set square that both rails are wearing evenly so that the top surface of the rails is at 90 degrees to the side of the bar. If you sharpen your chain unevenly (we all naturally have a preferred side) then you can end up wearing the bar unevenly too.
I was going to mention that.You don't really need a square,just ballance your bar on edge on a flat workbench.Set down your beer can next to the bar and slide it over so that it's barely touching the bar.If the can touches the top but not the bottom of the bar,or vice versa,the rails are worn unevenly from poor sharpening or running the saw with one side dull.Replace the bar, chain and sprocket unless you have a bar grinding machine and the skill to use it. Flip bar over and repeat test.
Good tips. I had a buddy ask me what I was doing filing the bar, and running a tool down the bar groove. And why I took of the guard of the sits next to the oil out let to clean. He had never heard of anyone doing any of those things before. Keep the videos coming b
Great video, so many time we worry about keeping the chain sharp but often over look basic bar maintenance. As far as that bent bar, don't throw it out, they can be straightened if not you can cut around corners with it. Lol! Thanks for your knowledge.
I tend to clean the guide grooves before the oiling holes, as when I’ve cleaned the holes first, debris from the groove cleaning, can re-block the oiling holes. I also check the squareness of the rails, 90° to the bar’s sides; for being level with each other and being the same depth from the base of the guide groove. Providing the groove is within tolerances, if the edge of either rail is sharp or rounded, they get filed square & level. Other than for demo purposes, I recycle worn bars and chains.
Good video, best I’ve seen on this particular subject, especially going over the bar getting hot in places, lot of it I new, but some points you made will help me keep my bars in good shape
It is a good practice to pre lubricate the bar, when you put new one on. Especially on longer bars, so that the bar and chain don't run dry at the beginning. You can also lubricate nose sprockets by putting them on "oil bath" overnight. Greetings from Finland.🇫🇮🌲🌲🌲
Hi, enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them, often watch them with my younger daughters, they love them too. They go walking round the house saying Hi Treeple, so cute. Regarding the discolouration on the bar, thats most likely just the heat treat they do to the bar to make it harder, if your chain was getting the bar hot enough to discolour it like that, you would have noticed some serious smoke and issues when running it, also the little dip behind the nose sprocket is often caused by running a chain too loose, maybe not retensioning it once its warmed up and got a bit of slack. Hope that helps, Keep making these videos, and enjoying tree work, climb high, climb safe.
Great video! I really appreciated the detailed tips on checking the guide bar's condition, especially the part about looking for nicks and ensuring the nose wheel turns smoothly. I've definitely noticed my saw running a bit hot lately, and your explanation about discoloration being a potential sign of issues was super helpful. Do you have any additional tips for maintaining the chain itself? Looking forward to more content!
Outstanding video and information as usual! I have no issues when doing traditional cutting. However, I find heat build up is an issue when running a very long bar to remove stumps, particularly in the three to four feet diameter range. Also this seems to occur when I am reducing stumps to size by ripping them into quarters. This is despite opening up the oiler and ensuring a very sharp chain. Any advice? 👍
When removing stumps you’ll often find soil and rocks in the bark which dulls the chain very quickly and when you proceed in cutting as the chain is dull it’ll get hot. When cutting the pieces “the wrong way” the fibers are much harder to cut for the saw and it would be better to have a chain with a lower filing angle. Try letting the saw work and avoid adding pressure this might help.
You also always want to check to make sure where the chain rubs on the bar that both sides of the bar are wearing evenly. If not you can get the bar readground so that is is actually square.
Hi clever people How may chains should I expect to go though before replacing the bar on a medium size saw 462? I get only 2 chains 6 months ish per bar cutting had wood in Australia is that normal Thanks for your contribution 🎉😊
Hi again, maybe you can answer this question because I cannot find it anywhere. Does grove thickness make a difference in a guide? As in does it have benefits to get a guide with a wider grove and chain compared to a thinner one? Cheers!
Hi Flex, awesome video. All the important facts in a compact video. Question: how do you evaluate different guide bar brands (stihl, oregon, Japanese brands etc. ) Do you only run stihl OEM equipment or can you recommend also other brands? Best wishes from the south of Germany
Здравствуйте ! Интересное видео ! Я тоже шины с бензопилы ремонтирую когда они изнашиваются . Тут в городе где я сейчас живу новые шины не всегда можно купить фирменные и приходится старые ремонтировать . Желаю вам и вашим родным и близким всего самого лучшего !!!
@@Femalelumberjack Yes, it was tough to tell in the video... I've had Stihl bars that showed bluing where the bar's laminations were welded together. That bluing did not go out to the edge of the bar. In contrast, on the bars I've seen that were overheated the bluing went all the way out to the edge of the bar. What has been your experience? Regarding the welding bluing: When the paint is completely gone from the bar the bluing (and straw coloring) looks very uniform all the way around the bar and it does not go to the edge of the bar. As you say, maintenance is important... flipping the bar, cleaning the bar, draw filing the burrs, using a bar swage to keep the groove uniformly tight, running sharp chains, not bearing down with the dogs, making sure the lubrication is working properly... it all adds up to long bar life and great saw performance. Note that even after the paint was gone from my bars they still had a lot of life left in them. As an aside, my son sells Stihl and Huskey saws. It is astounding how much damage people can do to a saw. For example, and amusingly enough, I went to my son's store and ran into a friend of mine. He said he was there to pick up his new saw... he reported that it had a problem with the oiler. I found out from the manager that what really happened was the guy left the chain brake on and let it sit at an idle with the choke partially on. In that choke configuration the idle speed was fast enough to over come the chain brake. The result being that before he made a single cut he got the saw so hot that it melted the oiler and damaged other parts! The manager showed me pictures... LOL
Hi Felixia, love the videos. I’m purchasing the MS 261 C-M. I’m in the US and trying to find a dealer who carries the Light 04 bar. I can’t find them anywhere. Do you happen to know if they’re exclusive to Europe? Seems like they’re just not available here. Do you happen to know of any shops over there with an online presence who will ship a bar & chain to the US?
Hi, Like with the chainsaws the different products are released at different times to the other countries so the light 04 might be coming later or they may have decided not to get it over there I’m not sure. I have bought and send a bar and chains to another American 😊 Try contacting Vedbæk Skov og Park www.skovogpark.dk
I would also add: Check how smooth the surface of the bar is were the chain slides on......I see a lot of bars with nicks, dings,pitting, and rough surfaces, right from the factory.........That can't be too good for the chain.......When I get a new bar, the first thing I do is clean the paint off the rails, and check for rough surfaces.......
Have you ever had a problem putting your chain back on your guide bar? I bought a third-party chain and guide bar and now the chain seems stuck in the bar. Possible damage?? Have you done your spark plug video?
I agree with Lawrence. When the chain comes off while you’re running the saw you’ll often find that some of the drive links get damaged. It might also be that the chain is bend in some of the links. It’s important that you fix the problem before running the saw again
I used to blow right down that bar toward the tip and make that wheel spin real fast and make a high pitch whining noise rain I thought it was cool not doing that anymore 🤣
Fantastic video! Great job....
Steve likes it! Yep, great suggestions in this one
Thank you
If Steve gives it a thumbs up im hooked lol
When learning I went through a lot of chains and bars prematurely. I always blamed my sharpening skills on crooked cuts only to realize it was a lack of proper bar maintenance. Tons of good information here!
Absolutely! It’s so important to look after the bar
This is an beautiful example of why I like watching your videos, the things that get ignored or over looked regarding our saws. Thank you! :)
Thank you for saying so
I used to think just another pretty face on Y tube . Not anymore , your knowledge keeps shinning through . Give Timber a pat for me !
Thank you!
Hello and thank you very much for your super support in all things of tree service. I admire you. 🤗
All of these things we look for come with a well spoken experienced person. Great video young lady 🙂
Thank you
Keeping your saws clean and well maintained can prevent many common problems people have with them. Great video 👍👍👍
Glad you liked it
All of these come from an experienced tree person thanks for another excellent video
You’re welcome
I had to watch a few parts twice, one was to see if the bar was overheated. That bar was overheated because it had more than just the rail hardening discoloration. The other part was to see the wear behind the nose of the bar. You did a great job explaining the cleaning, burr removal, and different examples of damage.
Thank you
Another great video hope you and your family will have a blessed week. Looking forward to your next video
Thank you
Nice work Young Lady.
A good video without a bunch of worthless chatter.
Thanks 😊
I'm a mechanic myself and I'm sorry to say that I didn't learn anything new this time.But you are so lovely so watch and listen to so I had to watch it anyway.You would be a great teacher.calm and meticulous.Keep up the good work and stay safe. cut som firewood today with my old 036.That saw will never die.
I’ve attempted straightening a warped bar. I don’t advise it. Especially don’t use heat. It works, but it’s not good practice. Good practice is knowing how not to damage the bar in the first place. Understanding what the saw can and cannot (shouldn’t) do goes a LONG way. Thanks again 😬
My thoughts exactly but sometimes unexpected things happen and you end up with a bend bar anyways. I would always get a new
Thank you for the pro tips!
I’m new to running a chainsaw and I appreciate solid information from professionals.
You’re very welcome
Just took my MS311 and MS391 apart blew them both out, MS391 is brand new but the 311 bar needed a little filing from use! Ready for the season in Northern Michigan!!
Good video. I always learn something watching your videos. Thanks!
Thank you that makes me very happy
So helpful and has helped me identify why my bar wasn't oiling properly! More checks I need to make regularly....
Glad you liked it
great advice, well presented thanks for this, having moved from an apartment to a house next to a national park in Australia i now have 3 saws
Chain and bar maintenance (and sprocket) are essential for sawyers - treeple living by the saw - I have seen slow mo videos of how chains move along the guide-bar at different tensions and loads - it is fascinating. Lots to learn. The topic is not as exciting as some but hugely important- thanks for taking it on...all the best
Glad you liked it
Always a pleasure to see you, love, but I can't watch the whole thing now, as I have zeroturn mower _maintenance_ to do on this lovely late afternoon....actually, I'll continue this when I get out there 😉
Well done Flex 💪! An additional step imho ... After I’ve cleaned the bar , groove and oil hole and checked for burrs I fit the chain and sharpen it - then I spray the links with some lubricant like wd40 and go outside and burp the throttle until oil begins dripping from the saw / chain throws oil from top of chain - this way I know that everything is lubed and ready for the next cutting session , maybe not necessary but I’ve had excellent results with this method(just makes sure to set saw on newspapers to soak up oil ) Also make sure to keep a sharp chain and the rakers set properly. A dull chain/ with improperly set rakers will accelerate wear in the bar groove - not good ... The bar should last long time this way , in fact I’ve got bars with 100face cord on them and counting. Also stay with the STIHL bar or if you can afford it a Cannon superbar. Budget bars are cheaper up front but a false economy imho 😀
Also a good idea to check with a small set square that both rails are wearing evenly so that the top surface of the rails is at 90 degrees to the side of the bar. If you sharpen your chain unevenly (we all naturally have a preferred side) then you can end up wearing the bar unevenly too.
I was going to mention that.You don't really need a square,just ballance your bar on edge on a flat workbench.Set down your beer can next to the bar and slide it over so that it's barely touching the bar.If the can touches the top but not the bottom of the bar,or vice versa,the rails are worn unevenly from poor sharpening or running the saw with one side dull.Replace the bar, chain and sprocket unless you have a bar grinding machine and the skill to use it.
Flip bar over and repeat test.
Good tips. I had a buddy ask me what I was doing filing the bar, and running a tool down the bar groove. And why I took of the guard of the sits next to the oil out let to clean. He had never heard of anyone doing any of those things before. Keep the videos coming b
I definitely will be looking for these Potential Issues on my Saw. Keep Us Informed, Thank You for Sharing 💯‼‼‼
Awesome! Glad you liked it
Great video, so many time we worry about keeping the chain sharp but often over look basic bar maintenance. As far as that bent bar, don't throw it out, they can be straightened if not you can cut around corners with it. Lol! Thanks for your knowledge.
I tend to clean the guide grooves before the oiling holes, as when I’ve cleaned the holes first, debris from the groove cleaning, can re-block the oiling holes.
I also check the squareness of the rails, 90° to the bar’s sides; for being level with each other and being the same depth from the base of the guide groove. Providing the groove is within tolerances, if the edge of either rail is sharp or rounded, they get filed square & level.
Other than for demo purposes, I recycle worn bars and chains.
Always helpful content still waiting to know where I can get the treeple hat
I'm waiting for the shipment! Once I have it I'll make sure to let you know here, on Facebook and on Instagram ;)
Cool thanks....
Hello from Canada! Another great video. Smoke from your bar is not a good sign. LOL. Enjoyed your video as always . Thanks so much for sharing
So glad you liked it
Good video, best I’ve seen on this particular subject, especially going over the bar getting hot in places, lot of it I new, but some points you made will help me keep my bars in good shape
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it
superb vidéo as always with clear and precise explanations thank you Professor
Thank you
Thank you for taking the time to make the video. I enjoyed it and learned alot.
It is a good practice to pre lubricate the bar, when you put new one on. Especially on longer bars, so that the bar and chain don't run dry at the beginning.
You can also lubricate nose sprockets by putting them on "oil bath" overnight.
Greetings from Finland.🇫🇮🌲🌲🌲
Hi, enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them, often watch them with my younger daughters, they love them too. They go walking round the house saying Hi Treeple, so cute.
Regarding the discolouration on the bar, thats most likely just the heat treat they do to the bar to make it harder, if your chain was getting the bar hot enough to discolour it like that, you would have noticed some serious smoke and issues when running it, also the little dip behind the nose sprocket is often caused by running a chain too loose, maybe not retensioning it once its warmed up and got a bit of slack.
Hope that helps, Keep making these videos, and enjoying tree work, climb high, climb safe.
Great video thanks for saving mine.appreciations.
Thanks for sharing with us this 🇩🇰👍👍
First one Great video girl keep up your great content from from New Zealand You make amazing videos
Glad you like them. Thank you
Großartig erklärt! ! 👌👌💪Wenn man sich manche überhitzte und krumme schienen ansehen muss! !🙈🙈
Great information! Cheers from Oregon!
You’re welcome
Great full of knowledge and advice videos. Can you do a review on the 261C?
Of course 😊
Great video! I really appreciated the detailed tips on checking the guide bar's condition, especially the part about looking for nicks and ensuring the nose wheel turns smoothly. I've definitely noticed my saw running a bit hot lately, and your explanation about discoloration being a potential sign of issues was super helpful. Do you have any additional tips for maintaining the chain itself? Looking forward to more content!
Love you videos. Especially the little tongue bite at the end. You are SO cute!
Nice video. The bar can't be 'bended', just 'bent'. There is no such word. Your English is excellent.
Outstanding video and information as usual! I have no issues when doing traditional cutting. However, I find heat build up is an issue when running a very long bar to remove stumps, particularly in the three to four feet diameter range. Also this seems to occur when I am reducing stumps to size by ripping them into quarters. This is despite opening up the oiler and ensuring a very sharp chain. Any advice? 👍
When removing stumps you’ll often find soil and rocks in the bark which dulls the chain very quickly and when you proceed in cutting as the chain is dull it’ll get hot.
When cutting the pieces “the wrong way” the fibers are much harder to cut for the saw and it would be better to have a chain with a lower filing angle. Try letting the saw work and avoid adding pressure this might help.
Great tip thank you.
You’re welcome
Oh wow the edits in this video are awsome hope is all well! Awsome video
Thank you!
Okay, what know-it-all would give this a “thumbs down”?
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for sharing 😀 your going to get a hole bunch of Canadian viewers from Steve's small engine saloon 😁
No problem 😉
Well they’re very welcome 🤗
Chainsaw very nice STHIL👍👍
Another informative and interesting video. Well done!👍 Do you find the light 04 bar last as long as a standard bar?
Thank you. Yes I do 👌
@@Femalelumberjack That's good I just didnt know if it could be trusted. Not many people use it. Thanks for the reply👍
Great info thank you for sharing.
No problem 😊
Thanks for another great video 👍👍
You’re very welcome
You also always want to check to make sure where the chain rubs on the bar that both sides of the bar are wearing evenly. If not you can get the bar readground so that is is actually square.
My god I love you. Thank you for all the tips. You are awesome
So glad you like it
@@Femalelumberjack I stihl can’t get a 500i. What’s with the USA. And that new magnesium one I asked the dealer he laughed at me not with me at me.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I want tp upgrade my MS 261 with a light 04 blade + chain. Do I have to change the drive gear, too?
In details as always,great job!:)
Glad you liked it :)
Great info, thanks.
You’re welcome
Hi clever people
How may chains should I expect to go though before replacing the bar on a medium size saw 462? I get only 2 chains 6 months ish per bar cutting had wood in Australia is that normal
Thanks for your contribution 🎉😊
Hi again, maybe you can answer this question because I cannot find it anywhere. Does grove thickness make a difference in a guide? As in does it have benefits to get a guide with a wider grove and chain compared to a thinner one? Cheers!
Hi felexia how r u great video thanks for info have a good week
I’m good thanks! Thank you
Woohoo, another video.
👌
Hi Flex,
awesome video. All the important facts in a compact video.
Question: how do you evaluate different guide bar brands (stihl, oregon, Japanese brands etc. )
Do you only run stihl OEM equipment or can you recommend also other brands?
Best wishes from the south of Germany
Здравствуйте !
Интересное видео !
Я тоже шины с бензопилы ремонтирую когда они изнашиваются .
Тут в городе где я сейчас живу новые шины не всегда можно купить фирменные и приходится старые ремонтировать .
Желаю вам и вашим родным и близким всего самого лучшего !!!
Great video! 🥰
I always thought the coloration on the edge was from heat treating process?
It might be hard to see in the video but it’s another discoloration when it’s overheated
@@Femalelumberjack Yes, it was tough to tell in the video... I've had Stihl bars that showed bluing where the bar's laminations were welded together. That bluing did not go out to the edge of the bar. In contrast, on the bars I've seen that were overheated the bluing went all the way out to the edge of the bar. What has been your experience?
Regarding the welding bluing: When the paint is completely gone from the bar the bluing (and straw coloring) looks very uniform all the way around the bar and it does not go to the edge of the bar. As you say, maintenance is important... flipping the bar, cleaning the bar, draw filing the burrs, using a bar swage to keep the groove uniformly tight, running sharp chains, not bearing down with the dogs, making sure the lubrication is working properly... it all adds up to long bar life and great saw performance. Note that even after the paint was gone from my bars they still had a lot of life left in them.
As an aside, my son sells Stihl and Huskey saws. It is astounding how much damage people can do to a saw. For example, and amusingly enough, I went to my son's store and ran into a friend of mine. He said he was there to pick up his new saw... he reported that it had a problem with the oiler. I found out from the manager that what really happened was the guy left the chain brake on and let it sit at an idle with the choke partially on. In that choke configuration the idle speed was fast enough to over come the chain brake. The result being that before he made a single cut he got the saw so hot that it melted the oiler and damaged other parts! The manager showed me pictures... LOL
Great job
Thanks for this Felixia, do you have a nickname they call you when you're up in the tree?
Not a “up on a tree” specific name 😊
But most people call me Flex
Good video and Good job......😎☺
Thank you
Good video
Thank you
Hi Felixia, love the videos. I’m purchasing the MS 261 C-M. I’m in the US and trying to find a dealer who carries the Light 04 bar. I can’t find them anywhere. Do you happen to know if they’re exclusive to Europe? Seems like they’re just not available here. Do you happen to know of any shops over there with an online presence who will ship a bar & chain to the US?
Hi,
Like with the chainsaws the different products are released at different times to the other countries so the light 04 might be coming later or they may have decided not to get it over there I’m not sure. I have bought and send a bar and chains to another American 😊
Try contacting Vedbæk Skov og Park www.skovogpark.dk
@@Femalelumberjack Thank you! I’ll look and see if they have it.
If the nose sprocket bolt is protruding should I replace the bar
Nice Video👍
Its very Good for Chainsaw Beginners 😉
Niko
Thank you
I would also add: Check how smooth the surface of the bar is were the chain slides on......I see a lot of bars with nicks, dings,pitting, and rough surfaces, right from the factory.........That can't be too good for the chain.......When I get a new bar, the first thing I do is clean the paint off the rails, and check for rough surfaces.......
Nice Video again Thanks
Hi perfect video :)
Regards from Germany
Thanks!
You’re welcome
Have you ever had a problem putting your chain back on your guide bar? I bought a third-party chain and guide bar and now the chain seems stuck in the bar. Possible damage?? Have you done your spark plug video?
Sounds like your chain has come off while using the saw you'll have small burrs on the drive links which you need to file off with a flat file.
@@lawrenceproctor8613 Yes, I believe the chain was too loose and came off. I am very careful about chain tension. Thanks for the advice.
I agree with Lawrence. When the chain comes off while you’re running the saw you’ll often find that some of the drive links get damaged. It might also be that the chain is bend in some of the links.
It’s important that you fix the problem before running the saw again
I will look at the drive links and file them as needed.
Yes, the both of you were right because I inspected the chain closely and it does have those burrs that Lawrence mentioned.
No bar rail dresser? I got the stihl one
"never marry a lumberjack". well...seems we have an exception to that rule. Nice! :)
Hi girl. Do the new Sthil bars require grease for the nose sprocket ?
No they don’t
yes people allways forget it turn over the bar half day thru cutting in 8 hr day.i do it during the lunch break
What causes the dip at the end of the bar? My old 039 has that on both sides. Yes I turn the bar over.
I was taught it is caused by running the chain too loose ?
Correct too loose chain
👏👏👍
where did you learn all this?
The blue color is a result of the guide bar being hardened during manufacturing. It is 100% normal, you'll see it as the paint wears away.
There are different discolorations
I asked several people no one knew about the summer winter setting
Well now you do 😊
You can straighten that bar out and use it again
I used to blow right down that bar toward the tip and make that wheel spin real fast and make a high pitch whining noise rain I thought it was cool not doing that anymore 🤣
Haha
You have to do this on the kitchen table correct? Just so my wife doesn't freak out
That’s the best place yes 😉
That's the professional answer I'll give her.
You need to check the groove depth on the bar,young lady
Did I forget to mention that?
@@Femalelumberjack I stand corrected, you did mention about bar grove depth
Very interesting and your beautiful
Thanks
👍👌😉👋
😊
Em thật tuyệt vời
If you want to have it real smooth use a wet stone instead of a file. or after you used a file.
I’m going to try that
You are awesome! Ok, maybe I'm being sexist because I'm female but ya.... you're awesome 😉
Lol thank you!!
Good info. I need to sharpen my chain now. If you watch UA-cam check out bucking Billy ray. He's got good info to you might like.👍👍👍
Glad you liked it
The main camera does not have sharp image as the other two, just something I have noticed also on one of the previous video.
👏👏👌❤👌
skal vi ikke have fældet nogle træer
Don't get mad at me but you are so pretty.
Thank you
I love you
Nesesito la 038 av
Jó děvče máš můj osobní obdiv dat se na takovou práci tož tak 16146🥰😋😊😉😆😄❤