Thanks my man, excellent video - and yes like you said it had been a couple years since I had this apart. And this helped tremendous. Spent a half day on it - now no more! 🤜🤜
It has been a few years for me since I installed the tail gate handle & rods. I believe if I remember the rods don’t have clips (Metal or Plastic) as not seen in the video, but the catalog from Long Motor Company shows square rubber bumpers that side onto the rods. Once the handle is in place, they are captured by an interference fit from the inner skin. Am I correct? It’s not something you do every week. These bumper would keep the rods from rattling inside the tailgate. If OEM, they wore off and fell inside the tail gate. I was thinking of add a “Pull Solenoid” or door popper to my tailgate and simply feeding inside the tailgate, two arm reaching upward, one fabricated with pins to hold onto the handle body & second with two pins to grab release plate. Wires come thru grommets at bottom center. Four pins, but if tapered at the ends, thin rubber/foam behind and masking tape to hold into position during install. I know it sounds like a monkey holding a football but doable. Thoughts? The only reason is an 2003 Tahoe 5.3L with O.D. Trans that my son gave me after the 67, then hitting black ice in his Tahoe about 3 weeks later. Using the BCM, I have RKE and the FOBs have tailgate release OEM built in. The receiver is inside the passengers door module. I have body work because of the tailgate as well. I don’t know your build, but bought a GM Genuine Auth tailgate stamping. (Right!) The passengers side upper 8” is 3/8”-3/16” thicker than the left, that’s perfect. The tail/brake light removed, there is no damage & all like new. I think I will have to split the tail light skin, move to fit, add metal and hide with some body work. Don’t that beat all? Something you would never check and find after install. When aftermarket parts don’t fit, guys mean it. Crap on my post toasties! This my last build, other things to fix but just takes time no one plans on. Nice trick on the latch wires. Alway watching. DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Thanks my man, excellent video - and yes like you said it had been a couple years since I had this apart. And this helped tremendous. Spent a half day on it - now no more! 🤜🤜
Super helpful, thank you!
It has been a few years for me since I installed the tail gate handle & rods. I believe if I remember the rods don’t have clips (Metal or Plastic) as not seen in the video, but the catalog from Long Motor Company shows square rubber bumpers that side onto the rods. Once the handle is in place, they are captured by an interference fit from the inner skin. Am I correct? It’s not something you do every week. These bumper would keep the rods from rattling inside the tailgate. If OEM, they wore off and fell inside the tail gate.
I was thinking of add a “Pull Solenoid” or door popper to my tailgate and simply feeding inside the tailgate, two arm reaching upward, one fabricated with pins to hold onto the handle body & second with two pins to grab release plate. Wires come thru grommets at bottom center. Four pins, but if tapered at the ends, thin rubber/foam behind and masking tape to hold into position during install. I know it sounds like a monkey holding a football but doable. Thoughts?
The only reason is an 2003 Tahoe 5.3L with O.D. Trans that my son gave me after the 67, then hitting black ice in his Tahoe about 3 weeks later. Using the BCM, I have RKE and the FOBs have tailgate release OEM built in. The receiver is inside the passengers door module.
I have body work because of the tailgate as well. I don’t know your build, but bought a GM Genuine Auth tailgate stamping. (Right!) The passengers side upper 8” is 3/8”-3/16” thicker than the left, that’s perfect. The tail/brake light removed, there is no damage & all like new. I think I will have to split the tail light skin, move to fit, add metal and hide with some body work. Don’t that beat all? Something you would never check and find after install. When aftermarket parts don’t fit, guys mean it. Crap on my post toasties! This my last build, other things to fix but just takes time no one plans on. Nice trick on the latch wires. Alway watching. DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Where did you buy those kits?
www.partsgeek.com/review-product/GFQHJPJH5KK/13970-04104533/
55.98
@@brain151 thanks very much
Awesome video.