EUC Bros | RS Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- #gotway #begode #RS #bearings #Replacement #teardown #eucbros
if you got a faulty bearing straight away on your gotway/begode RS speed or torque and you need to change them out when they send you replacements then check out this video on how to do it. Hope this helps you guys out.
if your looking to buy a wheels hit up Ray at:
Rokin Wheels EUC
304 - 283 - 3416
ALSO DO ALL THIS WORK ON YOUR OWN WHEEL AT YOUR OWN RISK... IF YOU DONT HAVE THE CAPABILITIES TO DO THE WORK PLEASE FIND SOMEONE THAT CAN! :) - Розваги
One of the better how to do euc tutorials yet.
Very nice. If possible I think I'll make use of my warranty if I have an issue with these new bearings. But I really enjoyed seeing the process 👍
More like EUC PROS! Very nice how to. I appreciate it.
Doin the Lord’s work.
Lol trying... 😁
One thing I might recommend having changed similar bearings on paramotors, as well as tire changes on cars: It is recommended to do a star shaped pattern when tightening so that you're always tightening a screw opposite the one you last tightened. This pulls the hub to it's mating surface in a more uniform way.
Wasnt that in the video? Lol im pretty sure murland said that when he said how he loosely tightens down before torque them down. Maybe i didnt add it into video hum
@@eucbros9235 If I missed it I apologise, I just saw an opportunity to improve the method a bit! Cheers!
Thank you!
Great video Joon! Thank you Murland for the know how and what you provide to this community!
Great video guys! Do you mind me asking how the new bearings have held up since installing them?
You guys bloody well rules. The funniest actions videos and now this tech info which is also very relevant ...thx ppl
I do not have the tools or comfortableness to do this... but I may need to get it done.
I'm there. I know I "can" do it, but I need the tools/shop and it's no doubt a small nightmare
Holes makes Hollow motor bearings waterproof magically appeared! Murland Potter! xD
Excellent ! Thanks for this tutorial 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
V11 next...thank you for everithing
Bearing change is same for v11 just tearing it down is way different 😁
1st off. I'm so thankful for u guys making this video. I followed it to a T and it was perfect. So I dumped my rs in a 12 inch deep peddle , subways and had to dry the rs out. Then the next day the bearing was seized up. So I didn't have new bearing but I did have marine grease. So I open up 1 side of the bearings and wiped out the old grease and regressed. It worked to Un seize the bearings but still sounds not normal. I didn't want to do the heat up part( cause never had to do that b4) but do you think it's worth it to regressed the other side of the bearings or am I wasting g my time and just need new bearing?
How dangerous is it to ride with noisy bearings ? If regressed will it still seize up one day. You guys rock!!!!
Next Level
I have my RS high torque on order .. I'm 6'3/200 pounds wanting to ride 60-70% off road and this will be my first euc after riding onewheels for two and a half years.. As you guys have tried both the high torque and high speed and have experience with both do you think I could still ride most trails with the high speed anyway still with enough torque and not have to sacrifice the higher top speed when riding it on the street (& have that extra buffer before power cutout) or still best to have the high torque? Obviously the hill climbing will be better with the high torque but can you feel a noticeably higher acceleration with the high torque version over the high speed version also (which is partly where all the fun is in euc riding) or is the acceleration about the same with both the HS and HT? Thanks
you guys are awesome!
Sh*t I might cancel my RS order. Seeing this bearing issue pop up more and more.
Yea either u get unlucky with a defective bearing or if water helps dirt in then bye bye bearings as well.
@@eucbros9235 I decided to stop being p*ssy and keep my order. I'll just make sure it has a warm blanket and some soothing jazz to listen to after each ride.
@@eucbros9235 This problem has been known since last year. It is necessary to immediately change the grease to a good one, or use expensive bearings (Japan). You also need to equalize the pressure in the chambers of the motor.
These are results based on road trials in rain and snow (+ salt reagents on the road).
Wow this seems like so much work. Also seems like you need a shop setup to fix an issue like this.
yeah!
Muchas gracias por compartir esta información, saludos desde España
Never apply Red Loctite. Red Loctite is for permanent fix. You can't unscrew red Loctite applied bolts without damaging thread holes unless you heat them hot enough to melt plastics.
There are use cases for red loctite, and this is one of them. Another use case, tightening the axle nuts on MSX, you WANT it to be permanent.
Locktite for hobbyists comes in 3 strengths: Purple (repetitive maintenance, low vibration environments), Blue (semi-permanent, no heat needed to extract), and Red (permanent, high vibration environments and heat is highly recommend to aid in removing machine screws to prevent tear out or spaulding). Do not use RED unless you can safely apply a torch to the parts nearby… nowhere near the motor magnets, for instance. Most EUC applications should be BLUE, even the hanger bolts can be BLUE (medium).
Now, the reason for confusion is that both Red and BLUE Locktite come in a similar red bottle, so we have no idea if it’s semi-permanent or permanent by observation. So, it’s totally worth pointing out if it’s not made 100% clear in the video demonstration.
Details matter, so it’s best to know what shortcuts are okay and which just cause more problems later.
You’re not going to be doing it wrong if you’ve only got BLUE, but RED Locktite on the heli-coil (by mistake) would suck for the next mechanic that fixes your wheel… And, if you are your mechanic, you’re only fucking yourself. {As far as anal is concerned, it’s better to give than receive (or so I’ve been told.)😅
Don’t sweat it if you left the bearings greasy, dry or waxed. As long as it can freely spin while unpowered, your ears will be the deciding factor and catastrophic seizing while riding is unlikely, unless you’re deaf or often wet. Squealing bearings are especially susceptible to water egress because heat will liquify most grease and leave an air gap for water to pass through on your next ride. {Buy a used scooter in the tropics and you’ll find out quickly who maintained their bearings and who the didn’t.
Luckily, I got a deal on a wheel needing a little TLC. And that’s how value is captured when others fuck themselves, unknowingly.
That said, I’m going to waterproof the motor which requires a few more steps than was demonstrated here. {This video is an excellent procedure to follow but it‘s not enough for 10%-25% of heavy users who demand reliability from their EUCs.
This is also why everyone should completely tear-down and rebuild their wheel when new so as to inspect, correct and upgrade fittings and seals where appropriate.
I highly recommend learning to fix the wheel you most desire because a cheap S22pro is likely less than a year or two away, and money doesn’t grow on trees. Good luck 🍀
Almost forgot,
NO LOCKTITE IN PLASTIC !!! Only metal to metal threads, and ONLY 1 or 2 Drops: less is more! Seriously 😳
Did you say you went for less than 50 miles and had to change the bearings ?
Why did you change it ?
Was it a used EUC ?
Th RS would not be very practical at all to be changing out bearings every 50 miles .
Thanks for the vid bruh , real eye opener , stay safe .
Yes bearing defective from the factory. New wheel causw it was clicking and making nasty grinding noise
Hello Friend!!
was the problem solved with the change?🤔
no longer makes noise?
What brand of bearing did you use?
ref: 2R always?
Do you think the problem is the quality of the material or the system?
Are you afraid that it will reproduce?
Thanks for your time!!🤙🏻👌🏻😊😅
Gotway bearing is garbage.. my rst has replacement gotway bearings and they are doing ok but i havent been riding that much. My rss has zen bearings and ive been riding that mainly and no problems. Drilling thr motor plates helped alot to keep water out of the bearings. Mitch got replacement gotway bearings and they lasted longer but now are making noise. We are showing gotway videos of failed bearings to get replacements and also to show them how many are failing so they step up and fix the issue with better quality bearings. But ive just gone ahead and just bought better bearings
@@eucbros9235 Hi brother!
Pierce the motor plates? 🤔
What do you mean exactly?
What do they say on the ECOdrift website?
Make a hole in the motor for better ventilation?
I don't like the idea very much ...
I have bought NTN bearings (made in Japan and they are worth a lot of money😰🙈 !!), which claim to be the best.
For my EX there are no other better than 2RS anti-humidity armor.
I'm trying to understand about the hole in the engine cover ... I don't understand well ...😥
@@eucbros9235 have a Telegram? Whatsapp?😅
@@EUCENDURO murland drills holes along the where the bearing sits so if water gets into the lip it can drain out instead of it just sitting in the lip and going into bearings. If you watch the video when you see us putting the motor covers back on a tightening down you can see where we drilled the holes it's not to vent out heat or anything it's just let the water drain out.
@stratgibson 120 bucks for zen bearings and veteran cant do what we are doing on these RST :)
Any reason why you didn't use a bearing puller?And is heating the only option to install back the bearing? Great video.
Heating is the easiest and fastest. Im sure theres other ways but this is what murland did And he is our mechanic lol
@@eucbros9235 I trust Murland
Fantastic job! The method to extract and even reinstall the bearings with heat is as elegant as effective.
Question: was there silicon around the motor covers, and did you apply some although it's not in the video?
I thought it was required for waterproofing.
When I changed the bearings on my 16X motor, there was silicon between the rims and the covers, and I put back some later.
No silicone for us
I haven't opened up my wheel yet, just out of curiosity how many bearings are needed for a wheel? I would think two on each side just like any other wheel
2
I know Murland mentioned drilling drainage holes in the motor but I don't see that covered in this tear down? When it is in the vice to level the pedals it looks like a bunch of holes have been drilled into the non-wire side. Is there any video where you guys talk about that part of it? EDIT, actually it looks like the holes are on both sides.
We decided not to put it in causw we didnt want people drilling incorrectly then blaming us for it. Gotway/begode will be doing this to all their newer batches for all hollow motors. Holes are drilled on both sides of the motor covers. Murland and i can make a video on how to do that when we get our m24p in. Hopefully in next few weeks
@@eucbros9235 Ah ok good deal, thanks for the explanation.
Where to buy these bearings pls and in some cases it says 2rs1, is that different than 2rs?
If u look through the other comments there is thr size of the bearings.
@@eucbros9235 yes, i found it but my question is if there is a difference between markings 61824 2rs and 61824 2rs1
Not sure actually. Ill have to ask Murland or Mitch
@@eucbros9235 Did you asked to Mitch or Murland ? These berings are very expensives !
thank you
@@pascalmassonnet155 lol probably not, but they should check with their vendor, the site i bought bearings from lists exactly what all symbols mean on their site.
EX:
WHAT DO THE SUFFIXES MEAN?
RS, 2RS, 2RSH, 2RS1, RSR, 2RSR, E, EE, LLU, LLB, DU, DDU
These suffixes mean "with 1 or 2 rubber gaskets". At 123Bearing, we specify with the number "2" when the bearing is sealed on both sides
C3, C4
Means "increased internal game". Often referred to as high speed, this means that the bearing is designed for high rotational speeds and moderately high temperatures. WARNING, an increased internal clearance bearing will not operate optimally at low speeds. We invite you to refer to the technical data sheet of the desired bearing to know its speed limit.
ZZ, 2Z, ZR, Z
These suffixes mean "with 1 or 2 sheet metal baffles" for dustproofing. At 123Bearing, we specify if the bearing is waterproof on both sides with "ZZ".
TN9, TVH, TVP, G15
These suffixes indicate that the cage (part of the bearing that keeps the balls at a distance from each other) is made of polymer material. In general made of fiberglass-reinforced polyamide.
ABEC
The ABEC standard is used to classify bearings by their machining tolerance. This standard is regularly called into question because it does not include certain important technologies to guarantee a good functioning, as well for the efficiency as for the lifetime of a bearing.
This standard is thus little used by123Bearing.
BHT / VT
This suffix indicates that the bearing is designed for very high operating temperatures. In general, it is indicated the temperature following this suffix.
Attention, these bearings are not adapted to all the uses, and will require a high temperature for an optimal lifetime.
great stuff, tnx
Were can I get big Bering for gotway monster pro?have a link?
Where did you get the replacement bearing?
I have a question for u the holes you drilled what size of bit had to use and how many inches of difference each and what you use for drill the cap thank you
I totally didn't level my pedals before tightening them down... does it strain the motor or is it more about rider comfort? would it be worth opening it up just to level the pedals perfectly? I was riding seemingly fine as it is now 🤷♂️
More Rider comfort
Many thanks for documenting this, may I ask what is the aluminum riser that you used to sit the bearing on top of? Also what is the bearings called, im sure there will be higher quality ones available, I intend to upgrade to something far better.
Maybe contact a company sells/repairs EUCs and see what they offer
Best! thanks
Awesome. Thanks for sharing! How would you know the bearings are going you think? And do they sell them somewhere other than factory sending to you do you know? Any link for the two versions?
They make a loud clicking noise. If u look at video of port gamble ride u can hear my wheel clicking very loudly for parts of the ride.
Bearings are out of stock for the good quality bearings.
@@eucbros9235 where did you order them? Do you happen to have the model needed for
Both the torque and the speed versions?
@@eucbros9235 thanks for the reply man! Great info
61824-2rs is model number and same bearings in both wheela
What powered screw driver is that small one? Seemed handy.
www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-MAX-Cordless-Screwdriver-CMCF604/dp/B07ZK6GYRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_47?dchild=1&keywords=powered+screwdriver&qid=1605460209&sprefix=powered+screw&sr=8-47
i already burned the controller on my rs - where to drill holes in the plastic shell body?
did you drill vent holes into the side covers?
or are they drain holes for water to escape.
Yes
Drain holes so water doesnt collect and get in bearings
I was about to order a Gotway RS but heard about the bearings issues.. Do you know if Gotway are fixing these issues with new batches (as well as raising the pedal height)? If I get one with these issues will they repair under warranty and/or send replacement bearings under warranty and my only option is to do this myself? I'm a OneWheeler getting my first EUC and into 50/50 50% off road and hill riding/ 50% street and pavement.. I'm about 200 pounds loaded.. Is it best to get the high torque version or is there still plenty enough torque with the High Speed version off road and in hills and no need to sacrifice the 40mph top speed you get with the high speed version? Thank you and greatly appreciate your feedback
Yes they are raising the pedal height they've already made them are selling them I don't know if they're going to put them on the wheels but you can buy the option to have higher pedals for the bearings I don't think they're going to do anything about the bearings
@@eucbros9235 ok thanks for your reply
@@eucbros9235 thank you
Which are worse, Rs bearing issues or MSX/MSP axle issues?
Both bad but rs is way easier to work on then MSP
@@eucbros9235 *than
Axle prob on the MSP !?!?😳.....do u mind if i ask what r u referring to? 😱...I have an msp ht and so far i thought it was the king😎
@@jonathan842 yes due to design the axle shims loosen up under any semi hard riding and also easily crush the axle as well. People that just ride street with light trail riding should be fine. But if u do what we do the axles crush. Lol and msp torque is king not speed. Lol once rs gets higher pedal hangers and better bearings it will be king.
@@jonathan842 sorry i read your comment wrong you do have HT the KING! :)
Why not use ceramic bearings on wheels?
that could work
I have a question: should there be any lube between the bearings and the motor cover? The replacement bearings I've got from Begode are swilling in grease, but it seems like that surface doesn't want anything to encourage movement. Is that right?
No grease between outer race of bearings and motor cover is standard, unless your trying to make your wheel rainproof.
An upgraded process might include waxing the outer surface of the bearings (after thoroughly degreasing), then mate the parts with this thin film to reduce oxidation from the galvanic response between parts. {Yeah, it’s a bit anal retentive but totally worth it.}
This is rarely done by hobbyists but it’s self-evident once you realize that this might be yearly maintenance in many environments; especially if you would like to ride predominately off-road.
If you live or only ride in temperate weather, dry fit is fine. IMO
Can you give us the Dimensions of the bearing thank you.
61824-2rs... Look that up and u should get dimensions
@@eucbros9235 I already did just really want to see it with the caliper measurement on the actual bearing
Basic dimensions
Inner diameter [d] 120 mm
Width [B] 16 mm
Outer diameter [D] 150 mm
awesome work dudes.
but getting an RS19 seems like such a failed investment after seeing this lol. especially if you actually want to ride in the rain =(
we have a mini fix for it and see if it works long term but main problem is just the cheap bearings
being bad out the box. if you get some decent bearings and do the mod we are trying out you shouldnt have any issues
@@eucbros9235 well its thanksgiving BROS! will you only cryptically plug this mini fix you speak of or will you make a video about it!?
lol i suspect all of the direct from china sourced wheels will be susceptible to bad bearings...if you order from a reputable website though, maybe theyll go through the trouble of replacing the bearing with a higher quality one (whether known or unknown to you), before they send it out to keep their clientele from falsely believing its their fault. or they may make it available as a waterproofing service perhaps
Its in the video just didnt say we did it. We drilled out some wholes in front of the bearing so any water drains away as wheel spins or when sitting still
@@eucbros9235 pioneering endeavor guys, much respect to you! i missed it entirely on the first take, and it seems youre experimenting with a different amount of holes on each side as well. it seems very promising, i admire the angled drilling you did for the holes. maybe those holes could even be used to periodically grease or oil the bearings before a rainy ride or even afterwards to flush any debris...if that works..maybe you can machine some grease fittings that screw in flush with the cover. id buy those if this method works well for you guys. inspiring work, thank you for this
I'm trying to keep it as low maintenance as possible when do these things.
guys, where to buy good bearings pls?
Murland bought kobe and mitch and i bought zen bearings and so far no problems with both with riding in quite a bit of water and mud
What is that metal disc used to support the disc and bearing while you heated it? That was the one important piece that I didn’t understand where that came from?? Great video otherwise!
It just looked like a piece of aluminum that they made in a mill at the same diameter as the bearing race.
@@Ambrovious Pretty vital component I would say. Would like to hear from them!
Michael is correct. Murland made it. But u can use anything that just will support the bearing but not the motor cover.
How many miles did you accumulate before the bearing change ? thanks
Less then 50 miles
😶...Well, I guess I’m buying a new wheel before I change the bearings....lol
How much does it cost to have a professional do this for me on the exn if anyone has an idea please let me know ,cuz my warranty is over
word, put my EX.N through a few beatings and finally need new bearings. I'll msg here if I find any news out. I imagine shipping would be involved and rather pricey too
What is the bearing number?
Ill have murland reply on this soon. Idk what it is but i know u cant get decent bearings right now cause they all sold out. We have been trying to stock up on them.
61824-2rs
The entire rider weight used to be supported by a single 3/4" hollow bolt, Why did they make the hub so gigantic? A smaller hub could be used with a smaller bearing, something like a 50mm bore. Then bolt the hangers on each side with (4) 1/4 inch through bolts. These huge bearing are too expensive and problematic.
They do better at holding up anytime you put your wheel through stress reducing maintenance and increasing the longevity of the wheel overall. Sure in their early stages they did have issues, and even now they do yet they are improving each gen. I put my EX.N through a lot of torture before I had any bearing issues. I',m proud of how it's held up
Just Return it
Why? It's the strongest wheel yet that takes the abuse of jumping. Bearings are easy to replace with nicer bearings without an issue plus with their hole drilling on the motor cover we haven't had an issue since rs is one of the best wheels out. Once we get our new hangers that have higher clearance for sure be the best wheel out for doing trail riding and jumping
@@eucbros9235
i just got a quote on these, tier one skf 61824 2rs bearings.. $737.02 each.
Hi, though this has nothing to do with my bearings, I've been having issues with some knocking noise. Some say could be the motor cable. I don't know how that could cause the noise, anyway I've took out the wheel. How much cable should I leave towards the motherboard?
ua-cam.com/video/1uyXkPg0NxU/v-deo.html