It doesn’t produce callus like maples and pines etc so to close a ‘crater’ like that, would have to do it by doubling the trunk thickness and hoping the ‘walls’ meet. So like, bridging the gap. Hard to explain, hope that makes sense
@@grobonsai Just as I suspected. It's a good thing you made that cut to prevent water from accumulating inside the hole. Hope the "crater" doesn't create more problems in the future. Thanks!
This is sooo awesome! I managed a succulent and cacti nursery for years and always thought Portulacaria would make awesome bonsai and have made little bonsai myself from mostly P. afra 'Variegata'. Just happened to come across the Elm short and found a new channel to love! Subbed.
I’m using 1:1:1 ratio of akadama, pumice and lava rock. It works well for me. I’m thinking about swapping the akadama for something else to keep costs down. Light schedule is currently 18/6 but I’m pushing for growth. If I didn’t want full-on growth I’d cut back to 12/12 or less just to keep it happy in winter
hi i got a japanese elm tree for xmas and it wasnt looking so good and i round that in the soil there were little darker spots thqt looked like syrup and in them were little transparent worms and im not sure what to do, do you know?
I just recently got into Bonsai and whenever I see a tree being repotted I wonder why the soil is so dense? Everyone uses these very coarse grained Akadama mixtures, but in many repotting videos the soil is really dense. Is this just natural compaction?
There are two factors here. Often there is potting compost or native soil in the rootball if it is the first or second repot and the tree wasn’t bare-rooted. Second, akadama does breakdown due to roots penetrating the porous structure of the particles. This is a desirable trait because the fine root divides into finer and finer roots when the akadama particles fracture. This is good because the surface area of the soil increases to meet the needs of the roots as they reduce in size and increase in density. Therefore, the root system becomes very efficient and can support lots of fine branching in the canopy. Freeze/thaw cycles also break the particles down, this isn’t desirable as it is independent of root development.
Great Portulacaria! Do you know how old it is? I have a couple that are 5-6 yrs old, but not the size of yours. Do you find larger pots make it grow larger, vs smaller pots? Keep the videos coming!
I don’t unfortunately. It was grown as raw material by Graham Potter. Yes bigger pots definitely help, just be aware of over-potting - don’t go too big too soon
These bonsai tools are amazing! wazakurajapan.com/?ref=grobonsai 10% Coupon: GROBONSAI
Nice work Darren!
Fabulous video. Cool to watch two different techniques on PAs on the same day (yours and Nigel’s) - very interesting!
I thought I was mad contemplating a massive indoor grow tent just to maintain growth when overwintering my Ports in UK. You have vindicated me!
It works! But the electric bills aren’t insignificant
the stop watering trick is also helpful for bending bougainvilleas, since they tend to break easily at the joints
That really is a large crater. Does portulacaria have to ability to heal over such wounds?
Not the easiest species to wire, good job!
It doesn’t produce callus like maples and pines etc so to close a ‘crater’ like that, would have to do it by doubling the trunk thickness and hoping the ‘walls’ meet. So like, bridging the gap. Hard to explain, hope that makes sense
@@grobonsai Just as I suspected. It's a good thing you made that cut to prevent water from accumulating inside the hole. Hope the "crater" doesn't create more problems in the future. Thanks!
I have been waiting for your next video - finally :) Great stuff Darren. Cheers Xav
Nice video Darren! I love that little tip of leaving the tree without water for a while! Very useful information! Keep up the great work!
This is sooo awesome! I managed a succulent and cacti nursery for years and always thought Portulacaria would make awesome bonsai and have made little bonsai myself from mostly P. afra 'Variegata'. Just happened to come across the Elm short and found a new channel to love! Subbed.
I'm obsessed with Portulacaria afra! its my favourite bonsai and it's alwase a pleasure seeing one.
Such a lovely tree. Great job on this lil guy!
Amazing, I have one (19yrs bought) but struggling, what soil do use and what is your lighting schedule please?
I’m using 1:1:1 ratio of akadama, pumice and lava rock. It works well for me. I’m thinking about swapping the akadama for something else to keep costs down. Light schedule is currently 18/6 but I’m pushing for growth. If I didn’t want full-on growth I’d cut back to 12/12 or less just to keep it happy in winter
Foist
Ps. Wasn’t it just months ago you were celebrating 15k subscribers? 😮
Perfect! And now next videooo 😂🫶🏻😉👍👍👍
Thank you for sharing your expertise! Very helpful to those of us newer to bonsai and seeking information & technique on PAs.
Hi, bonsái are So beautiful they’re all so unique! How long should or could you leave wire on?
Love the ports, yours look fantastic.
Nice video, Darren! Very informative and educational. What diameter wire did you use?
I mostly use 2-4mm aluminium with ports as they tend to be thicker when ready to wire
hi i got a japanese elm tree for xmas and it wasnt looking so good and i round that in the soil there were little darker spots thqt looked like syrup and in them were little transparent worms and im not sure what to do, do you know?
I just recently got into Bonsai and whenever I see a tree being repotted I wonder why the soil is so dense? Everyone uses these very coarse grained Akadama mixtures, but in many repotting videos the soil is really dense. Is this just natural compaction?
There are two factors here. Often there is potting compost or native soil in the rootball if it is the first or second repot and the tree wasn’t bare-rooted. Second, akadama does breakdown due to roots penetrating the porous structure of the particles. This is a desirable trait because the fine root divides into finer and finer roots when the akadama particles fracture. This is good because the surface area of the soil increases to meet the needs of the roots as they reduce in size and increase in density. Therefore, the root system becomes very efficient and can support lots of fine branching in the canopy.
Freeze/thaw cycles also break the particles down, this isn’t desirable as it is independent of root development.
Great wiring session. Educational and infomative
Such a great Portulacaria afra Bonsai. I wish mine was that stunning already 😅
My question is which is a plant with small leaves and grows fast in hot areas (best if easily available) to make a bonsai under a year or two
These grow wild in the bushes behind my house thinking of collecting some but dont have a plan for em yet
Informative and enjoyable, thank you.
Thanks Darren, some good tips there.
Great Portulacaria! Do you know how old it is? I have a couple that are 5-6 yrs old, but not the size of yours. Do you find larger pots make it grow larger, vs smaller pots? Keep the videos coming!
I don’t unfortunately. It was grown as raw material by Graham Potter.
Yes bigger pots definitely help, just be aware of over-potting - don’t go too big too soon
Is that wire just a bit overkill?
Bagus sekali bonsainya
Sangat mengagumkan sodaraku
I love the shape of this bonsai.
Thanks Rebecca!
Good stuff 👍
nice port. big and not corked much yet. dont see many like that in my area. its all cork and rough bark variations when i do find them
I'm jealous, we don't have cork barks here (yet!)
What gage or mm is the wire you're using?
I mostly use 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 4mm for ports
How old is this tree?
thanks for sharing with us Darren!
Hell yeah
This actually popped up while I am editing a video on one of my portulacarias. It gave me some great inspiration for final touches, thanks Darren!
Beutyfull bonsai friends (jade plants)
It's like braces for trees 😁
👍👍👍
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Awesome video!