thanks for the video! mine totally ate that button. couldn't find it anywhere in the pump! had two kids it's been in the back yard my son is on me to get it running this is just the video I needed
Last summer, 2019, we were cruising around in the M35A2 when stopped at a light it died. It’s never done it before so started it back up and the light turned green and then drove off. No issues after that until we stopped in a parking lot and turned it off. We ate and went to start it up and wouldn’t fire. Found a fuel leak at the hydraulic head and the injection pump. It was a very strong stream (arterial kinda leak). We had a guy driving a Subaru Outback stop by to check the deuce out and he was willing to “pull start” the deuce. Put it in 3rd and while rolling popped the clutch. Started up and ran but needed the throttle pulled out or the peddle to the floor to idle and drive. Made it home and parked it. Winter came and went and now spring is here, I took the hydraulic head off and replaced the 2 O-rings on the HH. The old ones look brand new but replaced them anyway. Got it back together and same issue but less of a leak, but still bad enough it won’t fire. Is this something someone has run into before? it is leaking under line #6 and to the right of the bolt. There is an Allen head type of screw and it kinda seems to be leaking out of it. The Allen screw looks like it has a hole. Could that be my problem? Any help would be appreciated.
60 Acres of Whatever That allen hole is a port for fuel. I’m wondering if it’s leaking or if you have a cracked Hydraulic Head. I have seen a few that have cracked. Check the Allen head bolt and make sure it’s tight.
Josey Walesa I don’t have any M35 trucks in the shop as of now. I’m currently re-powering two smaller military vehicles. One is an M38a1 Jeep that’s receiving a 4.3 GM v-6 the other is a M37 Dodge that’s getting LS Gm v-8. In particular, what would you like to see on the m35 series? If I get one in I’d try to cover the information you would like.
...where is your three pronged button clip? Kind of important. Sometimes the button falls off, just needs put back on, so I'm working on making stronger clips. Thread on steelsoldiers.
DavidRWymore Yeah during my fun video making I forgot to show the spring steel 3 prong retaining clip that snaps around the button. New better built ones would be fantastic. The old ones don't hold up too well.
Wilmer Segarra If you open the top window and side with the gear you should be able to turn the crankshaft slowly by hand. I find it much easier to remove the pump and do it on the bench. Trying to do it on the truck is tricky. It’s crazy hard to get the fuel shutoff back together on the truck.
You can actually do the repair on the truck if your talented enough. I like the pump off to clean and check them over. I like to take the valve cover off the truck and watch the intake valve open and then close. Have someone bump the starter with the pull stop out. It's the valve at the very front of the engine. After it closes, on the side the injection pump is on you will see a small timing pointer above the front crank pully. I mark the pointer with a yellow paint pen. Turn the crank carefully to bring it to (TDC) top dead center on the compression stroke. If you have a turbocharged engine you will see two marks. One is for naturally aspirated the other is for Turbocharged. If you open the small cover on the top front of the pump you should see the pointer inside the pump lined up at this point if you are on the compression stroke. You can then remove the timing gear cover and remove the 3 bolts retaining the timing gear and the center drive gear nut. Make sure the batteries are undone before doing this part. After that you can remove the three pump to timing cover bolts and the fuel lines. If you decide to try the repair on the truck you line the timing marks up, open the pull stop cover. Look in with a flashlight and line the removal mark up for the Hydraulic head and remove the shut off cam. You should then be able to remove and replace the Hydraulic head. It's getting the little cam for the shut off back in place that's difficult while on the truck. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for this video. My Deuce started, went to fast idle so I shut it down. Then it wouldn't start again. SS said it was the IP was sticking, and to open it up. You video shows that real well. Question, where does the plunger on the shut off cable go when you put the cover back on? thanks!
Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you so much! I’m going through a small situation with my M35 so this is absolutely priceless! Pls share, like & subscribe
Phillip Whitney I'm familiar with the Psb6a pump since I've had a bunch apart. I haven't had any other series apart so I couldn't tell you for sure. If the pump looks the same, I'd imagine that it would come apart the same. I know that they produced a series that looked the same minus the fuel density compensator.
mine is leaking from that part that looks like a 12 point bolt head, sticking out the side of the hydraulic head. Not sure if that is some type of adjustment, or just a loose plug.
Jason Garrido You can actually do the repair on the truck if your talented enough. I like the pump off to clean and check them over. I like to take the valve cover off the truck and watch the intake valve open and then close. Have someone bump the starter with the pull stop out. It's the valve at the very front of the engine. After it closes, on the side the injection pump is on you will see a small timing pointer above the front crank pully. I mark the pointer with a yellow paint pen. Turn the crank carefully to bring it to (TDC) top dead center on the compression stroke. If you have a turbocharged engine you will see two marks. One is for naturally aspirated the other is for Turbocharged. If you open the small cover on the top front of the pump you should see the pointer inside the pump lined up at this point if you are on the compression stroke. You can then remove the timing gear cover and remove the 3 bolts retaining the timing gear and the center drive gear nut. Make sure the batteries are undone before doing this part. After that you can remove the three pump to timing cover bolts and the fuel lines. If you decide to try the repair on the truck you line the timing marks up, open the pull stop cover. Look in with a flashlight and line the removal mark up for the Hydraulic head and remove the shut off cam. You should then be able to remove and replace the Hydraulic head. It's getting the little cam for the shut off back in place that's difficult while on the truck. Hope this helps.
Matthew Johnson yes but I already pulled the fender cleaned the pump pulled the kill rack cover found the lever to be sticking freed it up truck now runs. Turned the pump on no leaking from the lever oring could the fuel in my oil be coming from the high pressure pump or the compensator or only from the hydraulic head orings. what is the best way to proceed with trouble shooting. I was also told to check the intake heater but I don't see how fuel can get into the oil from there any help appreciated
Jason Garrido The lower O ring on the Hydraulic head is a possibility. For the price of an O ring set I'd start there. The fuel density compensator can be bypassed to eliminate it as a possibility. The cold start heater can leak and fill the intake with diesel that would go past the rings. It's also something easy to block off. The quill shaft in the Hydraulic head if they get super worn could leak. Usually it will just go in the return side where your shut off is located. I'd start with the O ring kit and try process of elimination on the other possibilities. I've never seen a density compensator leak, it is totally possible though because all it is, is a piston in a bore that moves when overcome by a viscous fluid that will not flow through a hole. The piston overcomes a spring that in turn allows it to move a tapered rod below.
Hey Matt,I have a '68 deuce & a half.Turns over but,won't start,sat up, maybe a year or two..quarter tank of fuel,did not replace fuel,loosen line at injectors,getting fuel to the injectors(not at a high volume) Tested the high pressure with pencil,...pump working!.. The "fuel shut-off" is where I had trouble,...once opened,(spilling with diesel)the lever would NOT move without wacking it with flat-head and hammer...even after loosening the wire-tied, 2 screws...What would you recommend?...and also,WTF is that 16 point bolt on top of the unit called,and what is it for?....Jeez!!,...I watched so many vids,...and no one addresses that frickin bolt!....it has a spring,behind it!!..Also,thanks for your upload!...very helpful!
You think that part could get stuck from sitting? My truck ran fine a year ago been sitting in my barn, went to start it the other day and nothing, getting good fuel to fuel filter bleeders IV cranked and cranked and not even a drop of fuel will come out the lines going to injectors, it ran great when parked and IV never had an issue the 15years IV had it. Any way to check it on the truck before pulling it off?
Yes! The piston that is in the middle of the hydraulic head can definitely get stuck. A pencil or small wooden dowel can sometimes be used to get it un-stuck. A little light oil on the piston before trying to free it would be recommended. I’ve done that on the truck with the help of someone to push the starter button, while you apply a little downward pressure on the piston with the dowel. If you get it free, run a gallon of cheap engine oil in the fuel, it helps lubricate the fuel system.
I did the pencil trick and it is going up and down, also when you turn the power on and the lift pump is running, fuel is dumping out of that piston when the caps off, I put it back together and I'm still not getting any fuel out of the Injector lines. Any more suggestions? Thanks again for all the tips so far.
T Yes they can be a pain to bleed them. It’s actually easier to have someone pull you with a pickup, while you turn the engine over in gear to prime them. I don’t like to use the starter to get them running if they have lost prime. Usually high range and 3-4 gear while being pulled let the clutch out and have someone tow you while you hold the trotte open with the pull stop in the run position and the lift pump power on.
I'm having a heckuva time finding a Hydraulic head for my pump. Any advice/links I'm having a little trouble identifying my IP. It looks like a "G", in that it has no compensator. But the fuel pump cover design looks like the C, D or E cover. The HH that is on it now (and is completely FUBAR) is HD90100A How can I tell for sure? Tag reads PSB6A-90EH-5337A3
Rich Stacey Before becoming a heavy equipment operator I was a full time heavy equipment mechanic. Over the years I've purchased and sold surplus military equipment though my side business. I have collected equipment for the repair and rebuilding of engines and components. In short I've focused on military equipment because I enjoy it. I share a little of my knowledge so others can enjoy it as well.
I cannot get the gears in the head to turn. I tried to turn the shaft but it rotates maybe a couple of degrees and the head actually starts lifting up and everything jams. Any ideas?
jussell Its possible something is broken inside. The head has a piston that rides on a button that rides on a cam. It might just have a piston that’s stuck and is trying to lift the whole assembly.
Check Out (MV parts store). I've purchased parts from them before and I know they sell Hydraulic heads for them. eBay sometimes has the O-ring kits and parts as well.
Greetings friend, I have a 465 ldt engine and ignition I can not lower the minimum enough, I lower it by the throttle lever and it manages to go down but it does not hold and turns off, any ideas for this problem. Thanks in advance
Let me see if I understand correctly. You have an engine you can get started, but if you run the RPM down to an Idle it will not stay at an idle and dies. Let me know if this is what you mean.
160 degrees Celsius is 320 degrees Fahrenheit, it would most likely be boiling coolant out. The engine should operate around 170-180 degrees Fahrenheit or 71 centigrade. The rpm being a bit high for idle is usually around 800rpm. I’d probably establish that the timing is correct first. Pre ignition or fuel that is essentially injected too early in the case of a diesel can cause excessive heat. It may not hurt to check all the fuel filter in the system as well as purge moisture from them if any has accumulated. The density compensation system might be an issue as well and it can be bypassed though I don’t have it available on the video. If you check all those things, check the low idle adjustment on the exterior of the pump.
Not usually, not much in them to rebuild. Few bearings and springs. Usually inspect the internal components and order just what is needed. If you find parts, they are usually sold individually not in a master kit.
Hola amigo buenas tarde te escribo desde Venezuela yo necesito ayuda con una bomba inyectora de Hércules. No puedo arreglarla tendrás como ayudarme tendrás una bomba de esa q me vendas
good video but that is not how you install safety wire.you feed the wire through the bolt then you twist the wire then feed it through the other bold the you twist it again and bend it over .the way you did it is no standard procedure . sorry i am a professional re builder on all types of pumps and i would never tie bolts with safety that way. not even from the factory would do your way
Thanks for the information! I’ll have to research more into that area. I actually acquired a tool from a friend that works on aircraft for doing wire. I haven’t really had to do a lot of tie wire since I don’t work on aircraft and generally on most civilian stuff you don’t run into it much. Most of the time the only things I run into that have it are military. You happen to have any videos on doing the wire correctly? I’d definitely take a look.
Awesome video, thank you for your dedication and time well spent. I'm going to get to work on my M35A2 that had fuel in the crankcase.
thanks for the video! mine totally ate that button. couldn't find it anywhere in the pump! had two kids it's been in the back yard my son is on me to get it running this is just the video I needed
Such videos are priceless thanks again.
Last summer, 2019, we were cruising around in the M35A2 when stopped at a light it died. It’s never done it before so started it back up and the light turned green and then drove off. No issues after that until we stopped in a parking lot and turned it off. We ate and went to start it up and wouldn’t fire. Found a fuel leak at the hydraulic head and the injection pump. It was a very strong stream (arterial kinda leak). We had a guy driving a Subaru Outback stop by to check the deuce out and he was willing to “pull start” the deuce. Put it in 3rd and while rolling popped the clutch. Started up and ran but needed the throttle pulled out or the peddle to the floor to idle and drive. Made it home and parked it.
Winter came and went and now spring is here, I took the hydraulic head off and replaced the 2 O-rings on the HH. The old ones look brand new but replaced them anyway. Got it back together and same issue but less of a leak, but still bad enough it won’t fire. Is this something someone has run into before? it is leaking under line #6 and to the right of the bolt. There is an Allen head type of screw and it kinda seems to be leaking out of it. The Allen screw looks like it has a hole. Could that be my problem?
Any help would be appreciated.
60 Acres of Whatever That allen hole is a port for fuel. I’m wondering if it’s leaking or if you have a cracked Hydraulic Head. I have seen a few that have cracked. Check the Allen head bolt and make sure it’s tight.
Matthew Johnson :/ I have. Looks like it might be cracked
Great video, going to look at my fuel shutoff next before I
condemn my hydraulic head. I have not found a hydraulic head to buy anyway.
Westtexted Google search (Mv parts store) eBay also sells parts from Time to time.
Thanks for the video.My deuce is making oil and thats what i need to do.
JoeyAirborne happy to help you out.
Great video, but the button on the end of the shaft is supposed to have a clip that holds it on. Looks like yours is missing.
Sure would like to see you do another video on the military vehicle.
Josey Walesa
I don’t have any M35 trucks in the shop as of now. I’m currently re-powering two smaller military vehicles.
One is an M38a1 Jeep that’s receiving a 4.3 GM v-6 the other is a M37 Dodge that’s getting LS Gm v-8.
In particular, what would you like to see on the m35 series? If I get one in I’d try to cover the information you would like.
...where is your three pronged button clip? Kind of important. Sometimes the button falls off, just needs put back on, so I'm working on making stronger clips. Thread on steelsoldiers.
DavidRWymore
Yeah during my fun video making I forgot to show the spring steel 3 prong retaining clip that snaps around the button.
New better built ones would be fantastic. The old ones don't hold up too well.
4:39 How do you line that up, with the pump still been attached to the engine? I need to replace them o-rings
Wilmer Segarra
If you open the top window and side with the gear you should be able to turn the crankshaft slowly by hand.
I find it much easier to remove the pump and do it on the bench. Trying to do it on the truck is tricky.
It’s crazy hard to get the fuel shutoff back together on the truck.
You can actually do the repair on the truck if your talented enough. I like the pump off to clean and check them over.
I like to take the valve cover off the truck and watch the intake valve open and then close. Have someone bump the starter with the pull stop out.
It's the valve at the very front of the engine.
After it closes, on the side the injection pump is on you will see a small timing pointer above the front crank pully.
I mark the pointer with a yellow paint pen.
Turn the crank carefully to bring it to (TDC) top dead center on the compression stroke.
If you have a turbocharged engine you will see two marks.
One is for naturally aspirated the other is for Turbocharged.
If you open the small cover on the top front of the pump you should see the pointer inside the pump lined up at this point if you are on the compression stroke.
You can then remove the timing gear cover and remove the 3 bolts retaining the timing gear and the center drive gear nut. Make sure the batteries are undone before doing this part.
After that you can remove the three pump to timing cover bolts and the fuel lines.
If you decide to try the repair on the truck you line the timing marks up, open the pull stop cover. Look in with a flashlight and line the removal mark up for the Hydraulic head and remove the shut off cam. You should then be able to remove and replace the Hydraulic head. It's getting the little cam for the shut off back in place that's difficult while on the truck.
Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for this video. My Deuce started, went to fast idle so I shut it down. Then it wouldn't start again. SS said it was the IP was sticking, and to open it up. You video shows that real well. Question, where does the plunger on the shut off cable go when you put the cover back on? thanks!
What timing gear cover are you talking about?
Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you so much! I’m going through a small situation with my M35 so this is absolutely priceless!
Pls share, like & subscribe
Thank you
This same method is used for the g code pumps correct? Mine just started making oil and im gonna put new orings in it and block off the flame heater
Phillip Whitney
I'm familiar with the Psb6a pump since I've had a bunch apart. I haven't had any other series apart so I couldn't tell you for sure.
If the pump looks the same, I'd imagine that it would come apart the same. I know that they produced a series that looked the same minus the fuel density compensator.
mine is leaking from that part that looks like a 12 point bolt head, sticking out the side of the hydraulic head. Not sure if that is some type of adjustment, or just a loose plug.
It’s most likely just loose. It’s a plug.
@@chompkinduce looking at it with a magnifying glass it looks like the plug itself might actually have a crack in it
Thank you for the info mine is making oil what is the best way to r & r the pump
Jason Garrido
You can actually do the repair on the truck if your talented enough. I like the pump off to clean and check them over.
I like to take the valve cover off the truck and watch the intake valve open and then close. Have someone bump the starter with the pull stop out.
It's the valve at the very front of the engine.
After it closes, on the side the injection pump is on you will see a small timing pointer above the front crank pully.
I mark the pointer with a yellow paint pen.
Turn the crank carefully to bring it to (TDC) top dead center on the compression stroke.
If you have a turbocharged engine you will see two marks.
One is for naturally aspirated the other is for Turbocharged.
If you open the small cover on the top front of the pump you should see the pointer inside the pump lined up at this point if you are on the compression stroke.
You can then remove the timing gear cover and remove the 3 bolts retaining the timing gear and the center drive gear nut. Make sure the batteries are undone before doing this part.
After that you can remove the three pump to timing cover bolts and the fuel lines.
If you decide to try the repair on the truck you line the timing marks up, open the pull stop cover. Look in with a flashlight and line the removal mark up for the Hydraulic head and remove the shut off cam. You should then be able to remove and replace the Hydraulic head. It's getting the little cam for the shut off back in place that's difficult while on the truck.
Hope this helps.
Matthew Johnson yes but I already pulled the fender cleaned the pump pulled the kill rack cover found the lever to be sticking freed it up truck now runs. Turned the pump on no leaking from the lever oring could the fuel in my oil be coming from the high pressure pump or the compensator or only from the hydraulic head orings. what is the best way to proceed with trouble shooting. I was also told to check the intake heater but I don't see how fuel can get into the oil from there any help appreciated
Jason Garrido
The lower O ring on the Hydraulic head is a possibility. For the price of an O ring set I'd start there.
The fuel density compensator can be bypassed to eliminate it as a possibility.
The cold start heater can leak and fill the intake with diesel that would go past the rings. It's also something easy to block off.
The quill shaft in the Hydraulic head if they get super worn could leak. Usually it will just go in the return side where your shut off is located.
I'd start with the O ring kit and try process of elimination on the other possibilities.
I've never seen a density compensator leak, it is totally possible though because all it is, is a piston in a bore that moves when overcome by a viscous fluid that will not flow through a hole. The piston overcomes a spring that in turn allows it to move a tapered rod below.
Hey Matt,I have a '68 deuce & a half.Turns over but,won't start,sat up, maybe a year or two..quarter tank of fuel,did not replace fuel,loosen line at injectors,getting fuel to the injectors(not at a high volume) Tested the high pressure with pencil,...pump working!.. The "fuel shut-off" is where I had trouble,...once opened,(spilling with diesel)the lever would NOT move without wacking it with flat-head and hammer...even after loosening the wire-tied, 2 screws...What would you recommend?...and also,WTF is that 16 point bolt on top of the unit called,and what is it for?....Jeez!!,...I watched so many vids,...and no one addresses that frickin bolt!....it has a spring,behind it!!..Also,thanks for your upload!...very helpful!
Tengo un Hércules ldt 465 y quiero darle más fuerza. Como hago para q eche humo negro por el escape.
You think that part could get stuck from sitting? My truck ran fine a year ago been sitting in my barn, went to start it the other day and nothing, getting good fuel to fuel filter bleeders IV cranked and cranked and not even a drop of fuel will come out the lines going to injectors, it ran great when parked and IV never had an issue the 15years IV had it. Any way to check it on the truck before pulling it off?
Yes! The piston that is in the middle of the hydraulic head can definitely get stuck.
A pencil or small wooden dowel can sometimes be used to get it un-stuck.
A little light oil on the piston before trying to free it would be recommended.
I’ve done that on the truck with the help of someone to push the starter button, while you apply a little downward pressure on the piston with the dowel. If you get it free, run a gallon of cheap engine oil in the fuel, it helps lubricate the fuel system.
Awesome thank you so much!!!
I did the pencil trick and it is going up and down, also when you turn the power on and the lift pump is running, fuel is dumping out of that piston when the caps off, I put it back together and I'm still not getting any fuel out of the Injector lines. Any more suggestions? Thanks again for all the tips so far.
Actually the injection line is spitting a little fuel out of it, do these take a lot to bleed the air out of the system?
T Yes they can be a pain to bleed them. It’s actually easier to have someone pull you with a pickup, while you turn the engine over in gear to prime them.
I don’t like to use the starter to get them running if they have lost prime.
Usually high range and 3-4 gear while being pulled let the clutch out and have someone tow you while you hold the trotte open with the pull stop in the run position and the lift pump power on.
Hello Adjusting the valves of the M35A2 US Army truck ok
I'm having a heckuva time finding a Hydraulic head for my pump. Any advice/links
I'm having a little trouble identifying my IP. It looks like a "G", in that it has no compensator. But the fuel pump cover design looks like the C, D or E cover. The HH that is on it now (and is completely FUBAR) is HD90100A
How can I tell for sure? Tag reads PSB6A-90EH-5337A3
Jay Guthrie www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/inpuhyheforp.html
I seen new hydraulic heads on this site a while back.
MattHow do you know all this?You are a smart guy
Rich Stacey
Before becoming a heavy equipment operator I was a full time heavy equipment mechanic.
Over the years I've purchased and sold surplus military equipment though my side business.
I have collected equipment for the repair and rebuilding of engines and components.
In short I've focused on military equipment because I enjoy it.
I share a little of my knowledge so others can enjoy it as well.
I cannot get the gears in the head to turn. I tried to turn the shaft but it rotates maybe a couple of degrees and the head actually starts lifting up and everything jams. Any ideas?
jussell Its possible something is broken inside.
The head has a piston that rides on a button that rides on a cam. It might just have a piston that’s stuck and is trying to lift the whole assembly.
Check Out (MV parts store). I've purchased parts from them before and I know they sell Hydraulic heads for them. eBay sometimes has the O-ring kits and parts as well.
Ayúdame amigo soy de Venezuela tengo un camión con un motor hercules pero no puedo conseguí la falla inyectora
Greetings friend, I have a 465 ldt engine and ignition I can not lower the minimum enough, I lower it by the throttle lever and it manages to go down but it does not hold and turns off, any ideas for this problem. Thanks in advance
Let me see if I understand correctly.
You have an engine you can get started, but if you run the RPM down to an Idle it will not stay at an idle and dies.
Let me know if this is what you mean.
@@chompkinduce
the engine starts but the rpm is always above 1000 and the engine temperature remains above 160 ° c. Thank you for your attention.
160 degrees Celsius is 320 degrees Fahrenheit, it would most likely be boiling coolant out.
The engine should operate around 170-180 degrees Fahrenheit or 71 centigrade.
The rpm being a bit high for idle is usually around 800rpm.
I’d probably establish that the timing is correct first.
Pre ignition or fuel that is essentially injected too early in the case of a diesel can cause excessive heat.
It may not hurt to check all the fuel filter in the system as well as purge moisture from them if any has accumulated.
The density compensation system might be an issue as well and it can be bypassed though I don’t have it available on the video.
If you check all those things, check the low idle adjustment on the exterior of the pump.
Where can I buy the O-ring set. Or can anybody give me the measurements of the rings? Thanks in advance
1992bacardiblack they are available on eBay and if you read through the comments I believe they are available a few other places.
Hey do u no where a can get a hydraulic head for my m35a2 thanks
www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/inpuhyheforp.html
I’ve seen several places, I’ll try to find you a few more, they are all around that $300.00 range.
@@chompkinduce thanks man u helped alot
Yup, anytime. If you need anything else I’ll try to help ya out. Good luck on getting the engine going.
Do you rebuild the entire pump?
Not usually, not much in them to rebuild. Few bearings and springs.
Usually inspect the internal components and order just what is needed.
If you find parts, they are usually sold individually not in a master kit.
Hola amigo buenas tarde te escribo desde Venezuela yo necesito ayuda con una bomba inyectora de Hércules. No puedo arreglarla tendrás como ayudarme tendrás una bomba de esa q me vendas
Lo siento, Yo no Hablo. :(
Lo siento. No vendo partes. Puedes busquar mvpartstore.com
10/10
U from
www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/inpuhyheforp.html
Seen new head units on this site recently.
good video but that is not how you install safety wire.you feed the wire through the bolt then you twist the wire then feed it through the other bold the you twist it again and bend it over .the way you did it is no standard procedure . sorry i am a professional re builder on all types of pumps and i would never tie bolts with safety that way. not even from the factory would do your way
Thanks for the information! I’ll have to research more into that area. I actually acquired a tool from a friend that works on aircraft for doing wire.
I haven’t really had to do a lot of tie wire since I don’t work on aircraft and generally on most civilian stuff you don’t run into it much.
Most of the time the only things I run into that have it are military.
You happen to have any videos on doing the wire correctly? I’d definitely take a look.