I just put a new top end on my 1988 Lt250r and and the machine shop told me I didn’t need any thrust washers on a 88+ (with a Wiseco piston) but now I’m second guessing that. Can anyone confirm that I don’t need them otherwise I may be ordering one of these kits.
You don't need thrust washers...if you did, all motors would come with something...this is something some dude thought about in his garage and figured he'd make money selling it...no other 2-stroke manufacturer puts anything like this in their engines...as I explained above, if you have side-play issues when assembled, the problem's in your crank journal not the wrist pin...
@@josesolis4505 not true I found out the hard way. It’s been a year since I commented that but I ended up wearing out my lower rod bearing. Most two strokes and 4 strokes have thrust washers on the crankshaft pin between the rod. Suzuki’s decided to put them on the wrist pin instead, you need to limit the side to side of the rod doesn’t really matter if you do it from the top or bottom. The reason for the billet ones like he’s promoting is so they don’t shatter like the stock steel ones. So yes you need a thrust washer if your engine is designed to have it.
Mechanically it is impossible for that piston to move sideways in the bore...unless the crank journal is gone and by that time, the last thing you'd have to worry about is your cylinder...so YOU DON'T NEED THESE...IT'S SNAKE OIL...PROVE ME WRONG!!!
You clearly know nothing about the LT250R and LT500R motors. Obviously, no piston could EVER move sideways in the bore unless it's not the correct piston. That's not what these washers are designed to do. The thrust washers are keeping the ROD centered on the wristpin and on the crank. On most two stroke ATV or dirt bikes, when your rod gets too much side to side play on the crank, you have to tear the motor apart and rebuild or replace the crank which is a ton of work. On the Suzuki, they used this system which makes it a breeze to fix side to side rod play by just replacing the thrust washers on the wrist pin. The problem is the way they designed the factory washers is a weak point. If you've ever seen one of these motors after a thrust washer comes apart, it's devastating and sometimes ruins the cases, crank, and the jug. I've purchased multiple used quad racers that have had that happen. I've rebuilt several, and I've only ever used custom billet aluminum washers with an RM 250 wrist pin bearing. Never had one come apart yet.
So...if this is so damned important that it would keep a motor from grenading, why aren't any of the other manufacturers, like Honda, Yamaha and/or Kawasaki use thrust washers on their wrist pins?? 🤔...cause in reality, once assembled, there is a miniscule amount of side play on the slug within the bore...and if you have too much, you got a crank journal problem!!...
It's important on an LT250 and LT500 motor because they designed the motor to use the thrust washers on the wrist pin to center the rod instead of bushings on the crank. The factory washers are steel, and stepped, and are prone to crack and come apart from years of high rpm's or from pre-detonation. It's not important on other bikes because they're not designed using thrust washers on the wrist pin to center the rod. They do it with the crank instead. The point is it's a huge upgrade to the Suzuki motors to run a lighter and stronger, non-stepped washer machined out of 70-75 aluminum. Unlike the factory steel washers, no one has ever had one come apart to anyone's knowledge in the LT community. And if one ever did, it surely wouldn't damage the top end and crank as much as the factory steel ones do. And it's a fairly common phenomenon on these older bikes if those washers haven't been replaced regularly.
You got a new sub for having a lt 250r
Well done. Is this quad a lot faster than a blaster?
Yes
How do you find the link to the kit
So where did u find this kit?
You gotta use an 99 RM 250 bearing
I just put a new top end on my 1988 Lt250r and and the machine shop told me I didn’t need any thrust washers on a 88+ (with a Wiseco piston) but now I’m second guessing that. Can anyone confirm that I don’t need them otherwise I may be ordering one of these kits.
You don't need thrust washers...if you did, all motors would come with something...this is something some dude thought about in his garage and figured he'd make money selling it...no other 2-stroke manufacturer puts anything like this in their engines...as I explained above, if you have side-play issues when assembled, the problem's in your crank journal not the wrist pin...
@@josesolis4505 not true I found out the hard way. It’s been a year since I commented that but I ended up wearing out my lower rod bearing. Most two strokes and 4 strokes have thrust washers on the crankshaft pin between the rod. Suzuki’s decided to put them on the wrist pin instead, you need to limit the side to side of the rod doesn’t really matter if you do it from the top or bottom. The reason for the billet ones like he’s promoting is so they don’t shatter like the stock steel ones. So yes you need a thrust washer if your engine is designed to have it.
I’ve ran all my lt500’s and 250’s without those and never had a problem for over 30 years, so don’t be making videos about something that’s not true.
Yes this is a proven way to save your engine, the stock ones are not as good. Take a look at all the LT250R forums if you don't believe me .
This is one of the most basic, and well known reliability mods for the LT. Join some forums bud.
JNK Racing...mechanically speaking, explain to me how will these stupid little washers save your motor...please, proceed with the explanation!!...
What the part number
Having those didn’t save mine one of the damn washers broke completely and went ham in the motor
Mechanically it is impossible for that piston to move sideways in the bore...unless the crank journal is gone and by that time, the last thing you'd have to worry about is your cylinder...so YOU DON'T NEED THESE...IT'S SNAKE OIL...PROVE ME WRONG!!!
You clearly know nothing about the LT250R and LT500R motors. Obviously, no piston could EVER move sideways in the bore unless it's not the correct piston. That's not what these washers are designed to do. The thrust washers are keeping the ROD centered on the wristpin and on the crank. On most two stroke ATV or dirt bikes, when your rod gets too much side to side play on the crank, you have to tear the motor apart and rebuild or replace the crank which is a ton of work. On the Suzuki, they used this system which makes it a breeze to fix side to side rod play by just replacing the thrust washers on the wrist pin. The problem is the way they designed the factory washers is a weak point. If you've ever seen one of these motors after a thrust washer comes apart, it's devastating and sometimes ruins the cases, crank, and the jug. I've purchased multiple used quad racers that have had that happen. I've rebuilt several, and I've only ever used custom billet aluminum washers with an RM 250 wrist pin bearing. Never had one come apart yet.
So...if this is so damned important that it would keep a motor from grenading, why aren't any of the other manufacturers, like Honda, Yamaha and/or Kawasaki use thrust washers on their wrist pins?? 🤔...cause in reality, once assembled, there is a miniscule amount of side play on the slug within the bore...and if you have too much, you got a crank journal problem!!...
It's important on an LT250 and LT500 motor because they designed the motor to use the thrust washers on the wrist pin to center the rod instead of bushings on the crank. The factory washers are steel, and stepped, and are prone to crack and come apart from years of high rpm's or from pre-detonation. It's not important on other bikes because they're not designed using thrust washers on the wrist pin to center the rod. They do it with the crank instead. The point is it's a huge upgrade to the Suzuki motors to run a lighter and stronger, non-stepped washer machined out of 70-75 aluminum. Unlike the factory steel washers, no one has ever had one come apart to anyone's knowledge in the LT community. And if one ever did, it surely wouldn't damage the top end and crank as much as the factory steel ones do. And it's a fairly common phenomenon on these older bikes if those washers haven't been replaced regularly.