Do you ever compare the two plates to help determine the location of a new bushing? Or measuring less worn bushing on one plate to relocate the proper distance in the other plate? Just wondering if the center of a bushing or pivot is highly in question, what other possible ways may the true location be found?
If you have a movement where the plates are flat with no protruding posts, rivets and the like, one can put the plates together to line up holes to determine centers. I've found no American style movements that allow this. One can use a depthing tool to find exact distances between pivots and, by using it with three or more pivot pairs, finding centers through intersecting lines. One could also use a set of pointed dividers to determine distances between centers on the unworn plate and transferring those distances to the worn plate. Again, intersecting lines will give the true center. Both those methods would give much more accurate results than what I chose to do and would be important to use when doing work on more precision-made clocks such as French movements, where the fit is more critical. American movements such as that in this video are very loose and the fit is much less critical. In fact, it is often said that an American movement should be loose enough to rattle when run without the anchor in place.
Thanks 👍 I just finished the dial. It was a mess and not original to the clock. Now, I have to do the glass. I've never done the stenciling. Always just bought decals. I'm going to attempt the vinyl stencil material.
I love your repairs, how is that beautiful watch turning out!!! very good restoration work, excellent!
Thank you so much 😀
Nice vdo
Do you ever compare the two plates to help determine the location of a new bushing?
Or measuring less worn bushing on one plate to relocate the proper distance in the other plate?
Just wondering if the center of a bushing or pivot is highly in question, what other possible ways may the true location be found?
If you have a movement where the plates are flat with no protruding posts, rivets and the like, one can put the plates together to line up holes to determine centers. I've found no American style movements that allow this. One can use a depthing tool to find exact distances between pivots and, by using it with three or more pivot pairs, finding centers through intersecting lines. One could also use a set of pointed dividers to determine distances between centers on the unworn plate and transferring those distances to the worn plate. Again, intersecting lines will give the true center. Both those methods would give much more accurate results than what I chose to do and would be important to use when doing work on more precision-made clocks such as French movements, where the fit is more critical. American movements such as that in this video are very loose and the fit is much less critical. In fact, it is often said that an American movement should be loose enough to rattle when run without the anchor in place.
What a difference! Nice work, Don!
Thanks 👍 I just finished the dial. It was a mess and not original to the clock. Now, I have to do the glass. I've never done the stenciling. Always just bought decals. I'm going to attempt the vinyl stencil material.
@@dperry428 Thanks, Looking forward to the finale!
I have one of these clocks A Gilbert 3022 University model..
Many of these were advertising clocks, given away to stores with advertising on the glass and often on the dial as well. Coca-Cola was a common one.
Don I know just what that smells like when you sand off an old finish.
Smell isn't as bad as the mess it makes, David.