Had the same problem. Had to get a mechanic heat up the bolt till red hot to get the bolt out and replace the control arm. Good to see a closer look at this annoying problem.
On my 07 G5, I was just thinking the same thing the other day. Weld the nut still & see what happens... I am waiting o my control arms to arrive today or tomorrow.
Update!!! This is the best video highlighting the rear bushing bolt issue period! I purchased 9/16 x5 bolts & flat washers, lock washers, nuts (from Lowe's) to do both front lower control arms on my 07 Pontiac G5 but, I could not get the hardware to tighten up! Turns out that the threads are not long enough! The threads do not reach down far enough down onto the bolt!!! So, I went to a G.M. garage & ordered the original bolts! However, I could not buy the factory style nuts! They are considered part of the body!- ei cut them out of another car at a junkyard!!! I did go to my local Royal King & look for nuts to fit the factory bolts! They are 14mm & then I saw 14mm bolts that would have worked but, I doubt they would hold up as well as the GRADE 10.5 G.M. BOLTS!!! But had I not of purchased the factory bolts, I would of purchased those 14 mm bolts!!!!! I tried doing the passenger side & the bolt would not budge!!! Sprayed everything again & used a pipe on my breaker bar & it gave just a smidge & let out a screeching sound & I swear it gave just a bit but then, My Snap-on breaker bar gave up the ghost & snapped the tool end in half!!! I am scared that the bolt is seized in the threads of the nut! I will be trying this job again & removing the strut, knuckle, inner & outer tie rod but, the sway bar isn't easily removed & will probably still be in my way! Wish me luck & ability! The weather is now very cold! I ordered the parts needed to put my other car back onto the road so, As soon as my parts arrive & hopefully the weather cooperates? Hopefully I can cut the wall out that is blocking access & finally get the passenger side lower control arm changed? hopefully this upcoming week hopefully! I am nervous that I will not be able to access the nut & not be able to complete the job & that is why I am ensuring that my other vehicle is up & running 1st!!!!! However, This is the most realistic video that I have found on the realities of replacing the lower control arm & the issues with the rear bushing & how to get it replaced, on you tube, period! So, THANK YOU!!!!
I used 9/16 bolt & the 9/16th nut (not thinking clearly) It started to tighten & then Just kept spinning! Took it apart, added a flat washer to the bolt then pushed it threw! Added a lock washer then double nutted the bolt because it would not tighten up! You say to push 9/16 bolt threw & add flat washer then the lock washer & then the 9/16 nut! Wish i would have tried that way but, It is freezing outside & all my tools are put away now, No garage! When i get more time off work, I will try your way, washer at both ends, then lock washer & then nut! It will be at least a week until i have another day off. I only removed the bolt for the sway bar & loosened up the outer tie rod & it barely moved over. I did not want to completely mess up my alignment by removing the strut plus, its bolts & where it mounts are pretty knarly & rusted & I am sure that was half of my problem! I ended up trying to cut the wall that blocks access to the cage but, a friend showed up & lent me a hand & he cut the bolt out & then, using a screw driver to bend up a tab on the cage & the original nut came out! I then pushed the 9/16x5 bolt threw just to align the control arm & jack it up to ride height to be able to bolt everything down & in my rush, I added a 9/16 nut & tried to tighten it but it kept spinning! Took it back out, added a flat washer between the head of bolt & the frame pocket, pushed bolt threw & then, Added a lock washer, & nut but again, It wouldn't tighten up properly so, I added a second nut! I wish that I would have added a flat washer then, a lock washer then, the nut! Maybe when I get time off of work, What sucks is, Right now at least during daylight hours, The weather is tolerable & quite decent during the day & getting close to 70 degree's but below freezing at night & I work the nightshift & have to sleep during the day! The more I think about it, I would need a deepwell 15/16 socket to tighten up the nut! Just thought of that!!! i am considering doing it over again now that it is daylight!
When I had that project for first time I experienced same issues. Solution was to take torch and cut off bolt etc. So when I got same job second time I thought it will be easier because I wanted to do something different. On end my second time was same as first time. Same problem same solution. North climate is not car friendly.
I picked up two 9/16 x 5' bolts, two nuts, & a 3-pack of washers, (thinking that i'd only need 2 washers & They are sold in 3-packs where I purchased them-Lowe's) (should have purchased 4 nuts in total & double nut it!) FOR CLAIRIFICATION? When you say to use a lock washer, Do u mean to push the bolt up threw the top of the bushing & the frame pocket then, the lock washer, & then, a flat washer & then, the nut? I saw the lock washers & did not grab any, The issue that I have is, Many people where I work, were laid off for almost 2 weeks & it has taken a massive hit on my finances yet, I am expecting my control arms to arrive hopefully today! Of course, As I plan to do this job, the weather is acting up! It was pretty warm-ish up until about a week ago, Now winter is showing it's face & IT IS FRIGID OUTSIDE, IN THE NORTHEAST & NO GARAGE!!! Last Christmas, I had to drill out suspension bolts on my ford, Fun Fun! Can you please elaborate on where to install the lock washer? I am working on a 07 Pontiac G5 Front lower control arm's...Thank you in advance!!! Today is 11-2-20, I really hope to hear from you as soon as possible, Hopefully before I do this job in the cold..I also hope that I can fit my saw zaw or grinder within the wheel well to cut this out but, I am sure that much will need to be done by hand
I did it as well in the freezing cold,no fun, but after you put the bolt in at the top I put a regular washer in then the lockwasher then nut. Since it is very difficult to re tighten I use the lockwasher for added security. It is a very tedious job especially getting the cage separated to get the top portion of the bolt out after its cut. Definitely found it easier to get to with the half shaft removed. Good luck and just persevere.
Wow, you had it worse than me, I should have said mine was passenger side, I had been told that side was worse, well done I hope others who do that side reads your comments.
Sorry just got this, how did you make out, I found removing the half shaft gave you a vantage point to get to the cage this was on the passenger side I heard the drivers side is even worse, cant even imagine that!
@@dougl339 Hi Doug, it was the drivers side, i removed the carpet and floor mat inside the car, i had already cut the bolt with an angle grinder. So i was left with the caged nut, i used a long thin punch and hammer to make a mark where the caged nut was so i could find the mark inside the car. I then used air driven cutter to open up a small section of bulk head. This gave me enough access to chisel off the caged nut and fit the new one (which i tack welded in place) i then folded back the metal i cut and mig welded it together and rust treated it inside and out. I was intending to drop the sub frame but the passenger side bolt was seized solid too. i fitted a new lower suspension arm. and have since sold the car. I would never have another G5 or cobalt.
I don't recall, if you don't have the pieces to measure just call Gm they should have the length. It doesn't have to be exact, there is a lot of extra space at the top.
The key is a sharp blade and patience, multiple breaks but you will get it, great feeling when its done. This was passenger side I understand drivers side is worse.
Had the same problem. Had to get a mechanic heat up the bolt till red hot to get the bolt out and replace the control arm. Good to see a closer look at this annoying problem.
I welded it in place to prevent it from spinning boom loosened right off and was easy due to it being hot from welds
All depends how old is vehicle and diferent exposure to climate also make difference .
On my 07 G5, I was just thinking the same thing the other day. Weld the nut still & see what happens... I am waiting o my control arms to arrive today or tomorrow.
Update!!! This is the best video highlighting the rear bushing bolt issue period! I purchased 9/16 x5 bolts & flat washers, lock washers, nuts (from Lowe's) to do both front lower control arms on my 07 Pontiac G5 but, I could not get the hardware to tighten up! Turns out that the threads are not long enough! The threads do not reach down far enough down onto the bolt!!! So, I went to a G.M. garage & ordered the original bolts! However, I could not buy the factory style nuts! They are considered part of the body!- ei cut them out of another car at a junkyard!!! I did go to my local Royal King & look for nuts to fit the factory bolts! They are 14mm & then I saw 14mm bolts that would have worked but, I doubt they would hold up as well as the GRADE 10.5 G.M. BOLTS!!! But had I not of purchased the factory bolts, I would of purchased those 14 mm bolts!!!!! I tried doing the passenger side & the bolt would not budge!!! Sprayed everything again & used a pipe on my breaker bar & it gave just a smidge & let out a screeching sound & I swear it gave just a bit but then, My Snap-on breaker bar gave up the ghost & snapped the tool end in half!!! I am scared that the bolt is seized in the threads of the nut! I will be trying this job again & removing the strut, knuckle, inner & outer tie rod but, the sway bar isn't easily removed & will probably still be in my way! Wish me luck & ability! The weather is now very cold! I ordered the parts needed to put my other car back onto the road so, As soon as my parts arrive & hopefully the weather cooperates? Hopefully I can cut the wall out that is blocking access & finally get the passenger side lower control arm changed? hopefully this upcoming week hopefully! I am nervous that I will not be able to access the nut & not be able to complete the job & that is why I am ensuring that my other vehicle is up & running 1st!!!!! However, This is the most realistic video that I have found on the realities of replacing the lower control arm & the issues with the rear bushing & how to get it replaced, on you tube, period! So, THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you for the kind words.
Thankyou saved me a huge headache
Nut and bolt can be purchased at bolts plus or any specialized nut and bolt store. Use lock washers to secure.
I used 9/16 bolt & the 9/16th nut (not thinking clearly) It started to tighten & then Just kept spinning! Took it apart, added a flat washer to the bolt then pushed it threw! Added a lock washer then double nutted the bolt because it would not tighten up! You say to push 9/16 bolt threw & add flat washer then the lock washer & then the 9/16 nut! Wish i would have tried that way but, It is freezing outside & all my tools are put away now, No garage! When i get more time off work, I will try your way, washer at both ends, then lock washer & then nut! It will be at least a week until i have another day off. I only removed the bolt for the sway bar & loosened up the outer tie rod & it barely moved over. I did not want to completely mess up my alignment by removing the strut plus, its bolts & where it mounts are pretty knarly & rusted & I am sure that was half of my problem! I ended up trying to cut the wall that blocks access to the cage but, a friend showed up & lent me a hand & he cut the bolt out & then, using a screw driver to bend up a tab on the cage & the original nut came out! I then pushed the 9/16x5 bolt threw just to align the control arm & jack it up to ride height to be able to bolt everything down & in my rush, I added a 9/16 nut & tried to tighten it but it kept spinning! Took it back out, added a flat washer between the head of bolt & the frame pocket, pushed bolt threw & then, Added a lock washer, & nut but again, It wouldn't tighten up properly so, I added a second nut! I wish that I would have added a flat washer then, a lock washer then, the nut! Maybe when I get time off of work, What sucks is, Right now at least during daylight hours, The weather is tolerable & quite decent during the day & getting close to 70 degree's but below freezing at night & I work the nightshift & have to sleep during the day! The more I think about it, I would need a deepwell 15/16 socket to tighten up the nut! Just thought of that!!! i am considering doing it over again now that it is daylight!
I thought the nut was welded in place. If it is , when I replace it does it have to be welded back or is there a replacement nut and bolt ?
When I had that project for first time I experienced same issues.
Solution was to take torch and cut off bolt etc.
So when I got same job second time I thought it will be easier because I wanted to do something different.
On end my second time was same as first time. Same problem same solution.
North climate is not car friendly.
thanks
I picked up two 9/16 x 5' bolts, two nuts, & a 3-pack of washers, (thinking that i'd only need 2 washers & They are sold in 3-packs where I purchased them-Lowe's) (should have purchased 4 nuts in total & double nut it!) FOR CLAIRIFICATION? When you say to use a lock washer, Do u mean to push the bolt up threw the top of the bushing & the frame pocket then, the lock washer, & then, a flat washer & then, the nut? I saw the lock washers & did not grab any, The issue that I have is, Many people where I work, were laid off for almost 2 weeks & it has taken a massive hit on my finances yet, I am expecting my control arms to arrive hopefully today! Of course, As I plan to do this job, the weather is acting up! It was pretty warm-ish up until about a week ago, Now winter is showing it's face & IT IS FRIGID OUTSIDE, IN THE NORTHEAST & NO GARAGE!!! Last Christmas, I had to drill out suspension bolts on my ford, Fun Fun! Can you please elaborate on where to install the lock washer? I am working on a 07 Pontiac G5 Front lower control arm's...Thank you in advance!!! Today is 11-2-20, I really hope to hear from you as soon as possible, Hopefully before I do this job in the cold..I also hope that I can fit my saw zaw or grinder within the wheel well to cut this out but, I am sure that much will need to be done by hand
I did it as well in the freezing cold,no fun, but after you put the bolt in at the top I put a regular washer in then the lockwasher then nut. Since it is very difficult to re tighten I use the lockwasher for added security. It is a very tedious job especially getting the cage separated to get the top portion of the bolt out after its cut. Definitely found it easier to get to with the half shaft removed. Good luck and just persevere.
Wow, you had it worse than me, I should have said mine was passenger side, I had been told that side was worse, well done I hope others who do that side reads your comments.
How did you get in to chisel the cage piece out ? i can't see a way in to chisel it ?
Sorry just got this, how did you make out, I found removing the half shaft gave you a vantage point to get to the cage this was on the passenger side I heard the drivers side is even worse, cant even imagine that!
@@dougl339 Hi Doug, it was the drivers side, i removed the carpet and floor mat inside the car, i had already cut the bolt with an angle grinder. So i was left with the caged nut, i used a long thin punch and hammer to make a mark where the caged nut was so i could find the mark inside the car. I then used air driven cutter to open up a small section of bulk head. This gave me enough access to chisel off the caged nut and fit the new one (which i tack welded in place) i then folded back the metal i cut and mig welded it together and rust treated it inside and out. I was intending to drop the sub frame but the passenger side bolt was seized solid too. i fitted a new lower suspension arm. and have since sold the car. I would never have another G5 or cobalt.
So how long does the bolt have to be? If anyone could help
I don't recall, if you don't have the pieces to measure just call Gm they should have the length. It doesn't have to be exact, there is a lot of extra space at the top.
Should I get rid of the car if this doesn’t come out
It will come out its just difficult. Great bullet proof cars otherwise.
funny we live in the butthole of ontario too .... fighting with a crown currently lol
What did you use to cut the bolt
Sawsall, but others have used a torch.
What size blade and brand and how long did it take you to cut through if you remember
Just a regular sawsall 6 inch blade and a lot of work, almost gave up but kept going.
The key is a sharp blade and patience, multiple breaks but you will get it, great feeling when its done. This was passenger side I understand drivers side is worse.
Hopefully I get it out tomorrow I’ll keep you posted