Thanks for the feedback Thomas! Cool to see the ski action on that last slo-mo sequence. It’s really forcing him to absorb & utilize the energy from the skis and not be stiff legged and ejected from the course!👏👏
Wow! There's hardly any skid that I could see.. I guess that's probably ok if everything is under control, but when speed control becomes more important it might give rise to problems, also I would think that the second run after some ruts have formed would be even more unforgiving? Definitely for the pros!! How did it work in competition?
We tuned two identical 2024 pairs to 86 and left a brand new 2023 pair at 87. When testing these against each other on the same track we were blown away with the 86 performance. They reacted so much faster and and made the skis so much more quick into the turn and overall responsive and lively with superior edge hold. We have a video of it and the 87 pair simply did not bend into the turn at the same rate, leaving Chris standing on his inside ski and skidding a lot more. Since the skis are not 100% identical it is impossible to give an absolute verdict but we had tested the skis against each other earlier at 87 deg and there was no difference then. You are right, drifting the skis into the turn is more difficult. However, that is Chris especially good at, drifting the skis at the top of the turn. So much in fact that he has been slammed badly for it by other coaches. We do not mind as our approach is a bit more skidding at the top of the turn at this stage and then minimizing it over time instead of crashing out in every race as many others do that try to carve edge locked every turn just to be as fast as possible. I will make a follow up video even if the last races were not on water injected snow as we had taught. And planned for. Tom
@@Triggerboy62 thanks for the reply.. interesting stuff. At that level it will make a big difference, but everyone wants to feel comfortable with their skis. Chris seems to be getting better all the time in terms of technique, I guess he can adapt to new setups and if it improves performance, then its worth some temporary discomfort? Kiitos
Try to experiment with base angle too. My skis are 5° underfoot and 8°at the ~ 20cm tip and tail. By setting a base angle sharp ski will be more skiable and you will have better control on the ice surface. Setting the angle and distance of the angle on ski length it's personal, you have to experiment to find out what suits you best. Also on a hard surface is good to have a few sets of skis and change them after 3 -4 runs, especially if you on an indoor water injected ice, it's hard like an ice ring on the slope and hard on ski edge weare out.
Thanks for the tip. We have now two pairs at 86 and two at 87. Tomorrow we will be at the new FIS venue with the water injected slope training. Racing starts Tuesday with two days of GS. Those skis are at 87. Then two days of SL. We never touch the base. It stays as it was from the factory. I dont know of any good racing tuning shop in our area that will do a proper base job. How often should the base be tuned? Cheers, Tom
@@Triggerboy62 base you do once unlees you have to grind/flatten the base for resurface. Best is to have your own tools to tune the skis. The tools not cheap but then you can do it yourself to your own configuration of tuning any time. probably most expensive is edge grander, we use snowglide or carrot, snow glide more user friendly. Base tool, it depends, if you want to expierment its then good to have it too, but once you know your setting then its not neded, you doit once in the shop ant thats it.
@@Triggerboy62 Base angle will completely change how the skis handle/feel, while side-edge will only affect the grip (so also to some degree how the skis handle/feel, but mostly in skidded carve entries, as skidding may become harder). Half a degree less base angle (e.g. 0.75 -> 0.25 ) could completely throw you out as the skis engage enourmously earlier! And full grind needed if you regret going down and want to go back up again. Best to start with too little angle and add bevel till happy. Not sure if @MrArunasB is talking about varying the base angle or the side edge angle. Detunning the side edge angle is a personal preference, athough he might be talking about varying the base angle while not detuning the side edge angle (remaining sharp).
I think it's about time I move away from my comfy forgiving 0.5:3 tune, as my SL-ish (older Fischer SCs 165 13-m ) skis never seem to be sharp enough for me. I guess I need to pay for another edge angle guide. :(
Yes, buying new gear is expensive. I actually have a machine to help do the tuning. Its a Carrot. It is expensive but for me a total life saver as I tune sometimes 20 skis in the afternoon or at night.
Thanks for the question. As we come out of the turn into the transition we are supposed to flex the outside leg that is engaged in a carve on the Big Toe Edge of the outside ski so that we end up on the inside skis Little Toe Edge. Note that this takes place BEFORE our skis are flat in the transition. Then the inside ski rolls over on its BTE and that leg and ski becomes the new outside leg and ski. Cheers, Tom
hi, cool video :). 1. how do you not have those stoppers on the side of the skis ? 2. does it have any big advantages or disadvantages? 3. is it alr to ski with for a normal skiing day ? 4. do you have any other form of stoppers so that the ski doesn´t just "run" away when falling ?
Ski Stops are there, you just can't see them in the video - they are mounted higher, they make no difference ski wise. Rental skis are simpler, they don't have a plate, and the ski stop is just very evident. Noone ever takes them away - although you could if you wanted - it just makes no sense. They are there to prevent your ski from running down the mountain and killing someone. There is no other way of stopping your skis from running away aside from.. ski stops. No other "technology" was ever made, it just makes no sense. The fact that you have 4 questions about something that's quite irrelevant and obvious makes me believe (no offense) that your are not an expert. As such, you should not modify gear in ANY way unless done by a professional - that knows what should and shouldn't be done. Removing your ski stops is never a good idea - it's dangerous for yourself (since you will lose a ski) and for everyone else. Probably yours are genuine questions and my answers might look aggressive - for a reason. DO NOT TOUCH THE SKI STOP.
1. stoppers are there, just look at the video on how to put your skis on (recent on my channel) and you will see there are stoppers. On these racing bindings they tuck to the side flush with the sidewall not to interfere when skis tipped on edge. 2. you need to have stoppers, it is law. Also, you cannot always remove the stoppers as they are integrated into the binidng. 3. no, you should always have stoppers 4. before ski stoppers came along, maybe in the late 70's if I remember correctly, the skis were strapped to our legs with straps. Even today I think that ski touring and off-piste skiing require straps. Not sure. As its so easy to loose a ski in deep snow. Cheers, T
@@Triggerboy62snowmboaeprders don’t have releaseable bindings, except those who use ski boots; these need to have a safety leash between the board and one’s foot.
Thanks for the feedback Thomas! Cool to see the ski action on that last slo-mo sequence. It’s really forcing him to absorb & utilize the energy from the skis and not be stiff legged and ejected from the course!👏👏
Absolutely!
Wow! There's hardly any skid that I could see.. I guess that's probably ok if everything is under control, but when speed control becomes more important it might give rise to problems, also I would think that the second run after some ruts have formed would be even more unforgiving? Definitely for the pros!! How did it work in competition?
We tuned two identical 2024 pairs to 86 and left a brand new 2023 pair at 87. When testing these against each other on the same track we were blown away with the 86 performance. They reacted so much faster and and made the skis so much more quick into the turn and overall responsive and lively with superior edge hold. We have a video of it and the 87 pair simply did not bend into the turn at the same rate, leaving Chris standing on his inside ski and skidding a lot more. Since the skis are not 100% identical it is impossible to give an absolute verdict but we had tested the skis against each other earlier at 87 deg and there was no difference then.
You are right, drifting the skis into the turn is more difficult. However, that is Chris especially good at, drifting the skis at the top of the turn. So much in fact that he has been slammed badly for it by other coaches. We do not mind as our approach is a bit more skidding at the top of the turn at this stage and then minimizing it over time instead of crashing out in every race as many others do that try to carve edge locked every turn just to be as fast as possible.
I will make a follow up video even if the last races were not on water injected snow as we had taught. And planned for.
Tom
@@Triggerboy62 thanks for the reply.. interesting stuff. At that level it will make a big difference, but everyone wants to feel comfortable with their skis. Chris seems to be getting better all the time in terms of technique, I guess he can adapt to new setups and if it improves performance, then its worth some temporary discomfort? Kiitos
Try to experiment with base angle too. My skis are 5° underfoot and 8°at the ~ 20cm tip and tail. By setting a base angle sharp ski will be more skiable and you will have better control on the ice surface. Setting the angle and distance of the angle on ski length it's personal, you have to experiment to find out what suits you best. Also on a hard surface is good to have a few sets of skis and change them after 3 -4 runs, especially if you on an indoor water injected ice, it's hard like an ice ring on the slope and hard on ski edge weare out.
Thanks for the tip. We have now two pairs at 86 and two at 87. Tomorrow we will be at the new FIS venue with the water injected slope training. Racing starts Tuesday with two days of GS. Those skis are at 87. Then two days of SL.
We never touch the base. It stays as it was from the factory. I dont know of any good racing tuning shop in our area that will do a proper base job. How often should the base be tuned?
Cheers, Tom
@@Triggerboy62 base you do once unlees you have to grind/flatten the base for resurface. Best is to have your own tools to tune the skis. The tools not cheap but then you can do it yourself to your own configuration of tuning any time. probably most expensive is edge grander, we use snowglide or carrot, snow glide more user friendly. Base tool, it depends, if you want to expierment its then good to have it too, but once you know your setting then its not neded, you doit once in the shop ant thats it.
If you do not race then 88 will do fine. If you are a wannabe racer then 87 or 86 will teach you to be humble
@@Triggerboy62 Base angle will completely change how the skis handle/feel, while side-edge will only affect the grip (so also to some degree how the skis handle/feel, but mostly in skidded carve entries, as skidding may become harder). Half a degree less base angle (e.g. 0.75 -> 0.25 ) could completely throw you out as the skis engage enourmously earlier! And full grind needed if you regret going down and want to go back up again. Best to start with too little angle and add bevel till happy.
Not sure if @MrArunasB is talking about varying the base angle or the side edge angle. Detunning the side edge angle is a personal preference, athough he might be talking about varying the base angle while not detuning the side edge angle (remaining sharp).
varying base angle e.g. 0.5 under foot and 0.7-0.8 on the ends, ~20cm
I think it's about time I move away from my comfy forgiving 0.5:3 tune, as my SL-ish (older Fischer SCs 165 13-m ) skis never seem to be sharp enough for me. I guess I need to pay for another edge angle guide. :(
Yes, buying new gear is expensive. I actually have a machine to help do the tuning. Its a Carrot. It is expensive but for me a total life saver as I tune sometimes 20 skis in the afternoon or at night.
As one completes a turn and moves across the fall line on two flat skis is there a time when you put the uphill ski on the little toe edge?
Thanks for the question. As we come out of the turn into the transition we are supposed to flex the outside leg that is engaged in a carve on the Big Toe Edge of the outside ski so that we end up on the inside skis Little Toe Edge. Note that this takes place BEFORE our skis are flat in the transition. Then the inside ski rolls over on its BTE and that leg and ski becomes the new outside leg and ski. Cheers, Tom
@@Triggerboy62 thank you
hi, cool video :).
1. how do you not have those stoppers on the side of the skis ?
2. does it have any big advantages or disadvantages?
3. is it alr to ski with for a normal skiing day ?
4. do you have any other form of stoppers so that the ski doesn´t just "run" away when falling ?
Ski Stops are there, you just can't see them in the video - they are mounted higher, they make no difference ski wise.
Rental skis are simpler, they don't have a plate, and the ski stop is just very evident.
Noone ever takes them away - although you could if you wanted - it just makes no sense.
They are there to prevent your ski from running down the mountain and killing someone.
There is no other way of stopping your skis from running away aside from.. ski stops.
No other "technology" was ever made, it just makes no sense.
The fact that you have 4 questions about something that's quite irrelevant and obvious makes me believe (no offense) that your are not an expert.
As such, you should not modify gear in ANY way unless done by a professional - that knows what should and shouldn't be done.
Removing your ski stops is never a good idea - it's dangerous for yourself (since you will lose a ski) and for everyone else.
Probably yours are genuine questions and my answers might look aggressive - for a reason.
DO NOT TOUCH THE SKI STOP.
1. stoppers are there, just look at the video on how to put your skis on (recent on my channel) and you will see there are stoppers. On these racing bindings they tuck to the side flush with the sidewall not to interfere when skis tipped on edge.
2. you need to have stoppers, it is law. Also, you cannot always remove the stoppers as they are integrated into the binidng.
3. no, you should always have stoppers
4. before ski stoppers came along, maybe in the late 70's if I remember correctly, the skis were strapped to our legs with straps. Even today I think that ski touring and off-piste skiing require straps. Not sure. As its so easy to loose a ski in deep snow.
Cheers, T
Thanks for stepping in warstomped, yes, no, never remove the ski stoppers. However, how about snow boarders?
@@Triggerboy62snowmboaeprders don’t have releaseable bindings, except those who use ski boots; these need to have a safety leash between the board and one’s foot.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!