I installed mine yesterday, I think they made a pretty big difference. Mine were like yours "perfectly fine" but I've noticed that while the return to exact centre is basically the same as the OEM sticks... the accuracy when off center (aiming in an fps for instance) is much more precise. I've played about 4 hours with the new sticks now and when I took breaks, I'd be like... man I'm finding this game so much easier, like aiming is no longer an issue... I used to overshoot my target, then go to adjust and undershoot, then overshoot etc. etc. Now I find I am much more bang on target. (and it's days gone which I know is third-person, but same diff and I have over 200 hours on the game with several play throughs, and I swapped mid-play through so it's not like my skills just improved in the last 4 hours)
If they're less stiff than the decks joysticks id say it is worth it. I dont think the accuracy is that big of a insentive for most things anyway its the overall feel of the joystick.
Thanks for the honest review. When I first heard about them I thought they would be great. But my default Steam Deck controller is already great so it seems like too much of a hassle now.
Good honest review! I had a bad module with a lot of play before it has some tension, can't get a replacement from seller, so be careful where you buy these. Also the stick's material quality is a lot worse, it's just hard plastic in stead of the rubbery original ones.
Well don't feel too bad, the rubbery part on the original will fail (2 years of use for mines) and the outer rubber ring will free rotate annoyingly. At least hard plastic will last longer.
I get the impression that the centering issue is not an accuracy problem with the sensor, but with the physical centering of the sticks themselves. Is it not normal for sticks like these to have a tiny bit of play in the center? Maybe they'd need some lubing or stronger springs to get perfectly centered every time.
Yeah I think you might be right, although there is no play with these. If you move them slightly it will register as movement which does make them more precise. It’s just that they don’t always return to the exact centre as expected. With a deadzone of around 3000 it’s not an issue
Kinda an unrelated topic but Honestly this needs more attention. The steam deck has a huge issue with getting a black screen where device works but the screen just doesn’t. Everyone on reddit is reporting this issue and all valve does is replace it than actually do something to fix this issue. I wasn’t lucky they wanted to charge me 145 to fix the deck even though it’s they’re fault for the faulty hardware.
@@steamdeckguy looking up steam deck black screen results in this whole thread of people with the same issue, whatever reason tho they always just send a new unit when people get it repaired. Almost like it cant be fixed
I'm thinking about buying these because a couple of times one of my sticks started to drift and so I had to open up my steam deck and use compressed air to blow out the dust out the stick. Worked liked new but I would prefer the drift chance to be lowered to almost zero. I do travel so this is a must have from what I can see and experienced. I can't open up the Deck with no tools ikr?
Just a word of caution be very careful when prying around the triggers, on some older models they were a weakpoint due to the way they are mounted, I found out the hard way just how easy they break off when prying in that area even when being gentle
TL;DR you won't see much difference between a HALL effect and a new OEM potentiometer. But over time, the HALL sensor should work well for longer. So having dealt with HALL effect sensors for flight sim gaming, I can shed some light. The return to center is an effect of the gimbal mechanism, NOT the sensor. At least on a new device. The main advantage of HALL effect is a more consistent input along travel and resistance to wear/contamination (dust). Typical potentiometers will lose center and accuracy as they wear and get contaminated. This is because they use physical contact. HALL sensors measure the relative change in orientation of the magnetic field of a magnet (without contact), where potentiometers (the stock sticks) physically touch two wires together, sliding one along the other, and measuring the change in resistance to estimate position. This is why you have to do this weird calibration thing. When the magnet is put in place, it can be in any orientation. The software has to decide what position is center. And unless the hardware you're putting it in knows this, the input has to intervene and translate it into familiar data for the steam deck or console.
I’m using the skull and co thumb stick covers, and with those the touch functionality doesn’t work. To be honest, I don’t recall ever needing to use touch controls
Are they less stiff than the normal steamdeck joysticks? That's one thing I think could make them worth it if my steamdeck joysticks ever get the drift badly.
Calibrating on the Nintendo Switch was much easier with the Nintendo-built-in calibration setting. These are a pain to do with the small dot, even on the OLED model ones., still tho they feel miles better then the standard ones but do feel a bit sticky , maybe I need to wear them in to get that feeling to go away
My left joystick starting to fail jumping from 80% to 100% randomly, really annoying as I play a lot of racing games. The calibration thought scares me a little on the gulikit.
@@steamdeckguy Ngl, I bought it already for the oled because i thought it would work but also did a research but couldn't find the answer if worked or not but thanks for the answer.
No idea. If your deck is old, it will be A and more recent ones B. Just set it to one of the settings, and if you find the touch button doesn’t work change it to the other one.
I have installed mine as well 2 days back , same version, but the issue is i can not ever get it dead centre while calibrating. I have done my calibration through Konsole from desktop. Never the pysical button but still, its a pain.
I think the physical button makes the biggest difference. if say, its a mm over to the left, then you have to move it 2mm to the left and then press the button. When you release the joystick it should go back the centre. This is the part which found the most fustrating and I wish is was automatic
@@majorgnu Nah, it's because Jsaux claimed that their case (which should be the same one in this video) helps with overheating issue in their producct info.
At first I couldn’t tell the difference, but after reducing the dead-zone settings they feel more accurate for micro adjustments then the stock versions, so I’d say they are worth it.
Sadly my gulikit v2 unit the right stick not perfectly straight, it slightly off leaning toward left when you look at it from top down view. Really lazy to contact back amazon because we'll it might take even longer cause im from 3rd world country lol
I installed mine yesterday, I think they made a pretty big difference. Mine were like yours "perfectly fine" but I've noticed that while the return to exact centre is basically the same as the OEM sticks... the accuracy when off center (aiming in an fps for instance) is much more precise.
I've played about 4 hours with the new sticks now and when I took breaks, I'd be like... man I'm finding this game so much easier, like aiming is no longer an issue...
I used to overshoot my target, then go to adjust and undershoot, then overshoot etc. etc.
Now I find I am much more bang on target.
(and it's days gone which I know is third-person, but same diff and I have over 200 hours on the game with several play throughs, and I swapped mid-play through so it's not like my skills just improved in the last 4 hours)
you know. you dont even need all of this if you use gyroscope instead lmao.
@@Bos_Meongor the touchpad
Sticks on Steam Deck are the stiffest out there. No wonder you had all the trouble with them.
Unless you have broken joysticks pass on this. 2 percent more accurate is a wast of money.
But never having to worry about stick drift, is worth it if you use your deck frequently
If they're less stiff than the decks joysticks id say it is worth it. I dont think the accuracy is that big of a insentive for most things anyway its the overall feel of the joystick.
My left broke and put this in but agree unless broken no need to replace
Thanks for the honest review. When I first heard about them I thought they would be great. But my default Steam Deck controller is already great so it seems like too much of a hassle now.
Good honest review!
I had a bad module with a lot of play before it has some tension, can't get a replacement from seller, so be careful where you buy these. Also the stick's material quality is a lot worse, it's just hard plastic in stead of the rubbery original ones.
Well don't feel too bad, the rubbery part on the original will fail (2 years of use for mines) and the outer rubber ring will free rotate annoyingly. At least hard plastic will last longer.
Thanks for the video, mine arrive on Tuesday (from Amazon US). I'm in the UK.
I get the impression that the centering issue is not an accuracy problem with the sensor, but with the physical centering of the sticks themselves.
Is it not normal for sticks like these to have a tiny bit of play in the center?
Maybe they'd need some lubing or stronger springs to get perfectly centered every time.
Yeah I think you might be right, although there is no play with these. If you move them slightly it will register as movement which does make them more precise. It’s just that they don’t always return to the exact centre as expected. With a deadzone of around 3000 it’s not an issue
@@steamdeckguy On every controller I had I find there's at least 98-99% accuracy. The joysticks pick up the movements in between each spring just fine
Kinda an unrelated topic but Honestly this needs more attention. The steam deck has a huge issue with getting a black screen where device works but the screen just doesn’t. Everyone on reddit is reporting this issue and all valve does is replace it than actually do something to fix this issue. I wasn’t lucky they wanted to charge me 145 to fix the deck even though it’s they’re fault for the faulty hardware.
Interesting - I hadn't heard about that issue.
@@steamdeckguy looking up steam deck black screen results in this whole thread of people with the same issue, whatever reason tho they always just send a new unit when people get it repaired. Almost like it cant be fixed
I'm thinking about buying these because a couple of times one of my sticks started to drift and so I had to open up my steam deck and use compressed air to blow out the dust out the stick. Worked liked new but I would prefer the drift chance to be lowered to almost zero. I do travel so this is a must have from what I can see and experienced. I can't open up the Deck with no tools ikr?
Yes, you need a small screwdriver and a prying tool as mentioned in the video
Just a word of caution be very careful when prying around the triggers, on some older models they were a weakpoint due to the way they are mounted, I found out the hard way just how easy they break off when prying in that area even when being gentle
been waiting for someone to do install the new ones.
TL;DR you won't see much difference between a HALL effect and a new OEM potentiometer. But over time, the HALL sensor should work well for longer.
So having dealt with HALL effect sensors for flight sim gaming, I can shed some light. The return to center is an effect of the gimbal mechanism, NOT the sensor. At least on a new device. The main advantage of HALL effect is a more consistent input along travel and resistance to wear/contamination (dust). Typical potentiometers will lose center and accuracy as they wear and get contaminated. This is because they use physical contact. HALL sensors measure the relative change in orientation of the magnetic field of a magnet (without contact), where potentiometers (the stock sticks) physically touch two wires together, sliding one along the other, and measuring the change in resistance to estimate position.
This is why you have to do this weird calibration thing. When the magnet is put in place, it can be in any orientation. The software has to decide what position is center. And unless the hardware you're putting it in knows this, the input has to intervene and translate it into familiar data for the steam deck or console.
Good info. Thanks for sharing 👍
Does the touch functionality of the sticks work with these thumb covers?
I’m using the skull and co thumb stick covers, and with those the touch functionality doesn’t work. To be honest, I don’t recall ever needing to use touch controls
Thank you, I have the ones from Debrand and there it’s not working either.
But as you said, I also don’t use them.
Thanks for the video mine are now calibrated all it took was to go into desktop mode and your right this set up is a pain
Mine start with MLC. Would that still be side B?
Is it a OLED model? If so, these don’t work with it
@@steamdeckguy yes that’s the one I got
Are they less stiff than the normal steamdeck joysticks? That's one thing I think could make them worth it if my steamdeck joysticks ever get the drift badly.
Sorry late reply. I don’t have this anymore - I sold it and bought OLED model. imo the sticks are not worth it, unless you have drift
Calibrating on the Nintendo Switch was much easier with the Nintendo-built-in calibration setting. These are a pain to do with the small dot, even on the OLED model ones., still tho they feel miles better then the standard ones but do feel a bit sticky , maybe I need to wear them in to get that feeling to go away
Mine had defects out of the box. The left joystick would lean to the right. Gonna send it back for replacement.
That’s annoying.
My left joystick starting to fail jumping from 80% to 100% randomly, really annoying as I play a lot of racing games. The calibration thought scares me a little on the gulikit.
It’s not too bad, just takes a little more fiddling than I was expecting. If your having issues then I’d give it a go
6:31 - Apparently you can just do it on desktop mode without pressing the buttons
I think you need to do it for both to get the best results
@@steamdeckguy I'm pretty sure they both trigger the same procedure
Where’d you get those back buttons? Those are neat.
They are included with the JSAUX backplates. You get 3 different sizes
are the built into the case like the vanilla buttons or are they like the extreme ones? (i don't like the kickstand, make it too bulky feeling)
Will the gulikit JS work on the OLED?
I don’t think it is. Apparently the internal of the OLED are different
@@steamdeckguy Ngl, I bought it already for the oled because i thought it would work but also did a research but couldn't find the answer if worked or not but thanks for the answer.
I'd kill the deadzones on these as well, as they're hall effect joysticks.
I’ve dropped the deadzone a little but it’s impossible to have it completely off, since the sticks don’t always align to the centre perfectly
They are for Steam Deck Oled too?
Yes, although I wouldn’t recommend swapping them unless you have issues.
How can I check the controller id on windows?
No idea. If your deck is old, it will be A and more recent ones B. Just set it to one of the settings, and if you find the touch button doesn’t work change it to the other one.
@@steamdeckguy alright had mine for over a year now so that was helpful. Thanks
I have installed mine as well 2 days back , same version, but the issue is i can not ever get it dead centre while calibrating. I have done my calibration through Konsole from desktop. Never the pysical button but still, its a pain.
I think the physical button makes the biggest difference. if say, its a mm over to the left, then you have to move it 2mm to the left and then press the button. When you release the joystick it should go back the centre. This is the part which found the most fustrating and I wish is was automatic
Is the deadzone still square?
I believe so
This is a two person job just because of that lil button
It can be done, but it would be so much easier if they just made that button a little bigger.
So better get the old version?
I haven’t tried the old version.
Does the transparent back plate give you lower temperatures compared to the original one?
I never really did a side by side comparison. In most demanding games it hovers around 80 degrees
I'd love to hear the reasoning behind that question.
Are you asking that specifically because it's transparent?
@@majorgnuit has a piece of metal that's supposed to passively cool a little. And yes, the temps are lower for longer but eventually even out.
@@majorgnu Nah, it's because Jsaux claimed that their case (which should be the same one in this video) helps with overheating issue in their producct info.
@@Spolt_main That's good to know. I saw people talking about the metal plate being hot as hell so I was hesitant to actually get one.
So they feel different?
At first I couldn’t tell the difference, but after reducing the dead-zone settings they feel more accurate for micro adjustments then the stock versions, so I’d say they are worth it.
@@steamdeckguy awesome! Thanks print next big upgrade! Done did the shell swap lol
Sadly my gulikit v2 unit the right stick not perfectly straight, it slightly off leaning toward left when you look at it from top down view.
Really lazy to contact back amazon because we'll it might take even longer cause im from 3rd world country lol
That’s unfortunate. You should definitely contact Amazon if it’s faulty.
What a set up pain in the A$$$ !!!!