Heres a tip for everyone. I have had these sticks since Feb of this year. In steam settings you can shrink the Deadzone down to literally 0. It will give you alot better control and feel more responsive. I absolutely love the sticks myself. Great video as always man cheers.
In between retro game corps videos i like to sit down and think about my place in the universe, the next retro game corps video should be ready by then
I don't own a Steam Deck and don't plan on ever getting one. Hell, it's not even officially available in my country. However, it's a Retro Game Corps video, so you know I'm watching it!
BTW: If you scroll down a bit further in the systems menu and click on "Model/Serial Numbers" in the Hardware section it will spell out the type of sticks named "Type A/Type B" on the parts overview screen.
I remember getting stick drift in my PlayStation controllers and realizing that this was going to be my life until I could scrape enough money together for a new controller. What a time to be alive where issues like this have an affordable and operable solution
The DualShock 2 actually had calibration functionality in its sticks to prevent stick drift. You just had to press L3+R3 at the same time and do a 360 rotation on both sticks, and it would recalibrate them. Sadly, it was literally the only controller to ever have that feature.
@@snowzZzZz The DualShock 2 is the PS2 controller from 23 years ago, they should 100% be able to just do this in every controller. So yeah, it's money.
The really crazy thing is that although the PS2 controller may have had a calibration feature, it never developed drift in any case. And I played the shit out of my PS2! In fact, I don't ever remember getting stick drift on ANY controller, until the last (PS4) console generation. It's TOTALLY abt money - not only are they deliberately not using HALL sensor sticks, they're actually using parts which are DESIGNED TO FAIL after a year of normal use.
I tried these and went back to stock. The dead zones were impressive but the input fields are squared not round, which led to diagonal input registering slower and less precise than stock sticks. If they can make the input area circular instead of squared these will be worth it to me, and i would try them again.
I got a stick drift with the right stick, it now lives it's own life with the camera going slowly up and right in the games... So I remembered about this video and ordered my pair of gulikit sticks
I already did it just because. I didn't want to have to worry about stick drift ever and I really love the Gulikit Pro controller on my PC, so for $30 and no soldering I was in. The hardest part is dealing with the ribbon cables. Like you said, I don't feel/notice any difference with these, but there is peace of mind with them.
@@jorisbonson386 uuuh yes they do. my left stick on DAY ONE drifted downwards very very easily as soon as i lowered the left stick downwards a tiny bit. This was on an early unit in April 2022. Anyway thankfully Steam has a dead zone calibration so that helps a lot
Perfect video. My wife got a steam deck in January and within 6 months the left stick developed a problem with it literally sticking to the upper right. It can be fixed by simply moving it but it does cause her to get annoyed. So I might just upgrade them for her to save her some trouble.
Wow, I bought the original Gulikit sticks last year for when I have to replace my Steam Deck analog sticks. Pretty cool that Gulikit finally made ones that don't need to be soldered. Saves me more money from having to buy a quality soldering iron. I just wish that these new sticks were made in the first place instead of the ones that I bought (which need to be soldered) but oh well
This is the mod I'll upgrade when stick drift happens and might as well upgrade the 2230 to 2tb when it gets to that point. Doesn't make sense to change out now when everything is working fine. Great video as usual.
My thoughts exactly. I thought, "well, this is good to know if I ever get stick drift. At the same time I will also purchase an upgraded SSD and do both."
I literally installed these two days ago, and I love them so much - they have this very unique feel that I can't get enough of, I'd recommend upgrading even if your sticks don't drift at all
I’ve been using the new sticks for a month - my left joystick was a little taller than stock and caused the joystick to stick when pushed to the full direction 1/4 of the time. This was fixed by loosening the mounting screws, though the board is now not as secure as the right joystick. It’s also worth mentioning the square active zones with these joysticks.
Sometimes the sticks get a little pulled from their socket during transportation. Have you tried pressing the stick (as if you were pressing L3, but harder) to see if it somehow goes back in?
Even though I have no need to get the new sticks it's awesome we have people like you to make these vids. You've answered anything I can think of wanting to know. How it feels to take it apart, how it feels to see it's guts, and other stuff that this vid may come in handy for. That's important and more than just the directions. Everyone new to this will feel awkward and it helps you did too haha. Really tells them how they will likely feel. Thanks good sir.
I've been a fan for years, your videos on the RG351V convinced me to get on, today I'm picking up a Steam Deck which are still hard to come by here in NZ, I'm excited!
Thanks for the info again. You've held it down here online. I appreciate your unique presence in this flooded economy of tech/gaming personalities. Peace
This channel is absolutely awesome. I have learned so much about emulation and retro handhelds. In fact, if I hadn’t have found this very channel, I would know nothing. So thanks Retro Game Corps!
One thing you forgot to mention is that due to their higher precision hall sensors allow you to set a much smaller dead zone. Almost a zero dead zone actually. The dead zone must be set in the system settings. But it's very easy to do: it can be done from the standard settings GUI without even having to go to the desktop mode or the CLI.
These new version of Gulikit sticks which have built-in A/B switch and free of soldering was a blast for me at first, until I find out there's some issues. The center deadzone is all good, but on the outer side the sticks seem to report 100% values way before being fully deflected. This means comparing to the stock sticks, these ones will report a higher off-center value when being pushed out the same physical angle, making them to feel way more sensitive than normal. On my unit it's about 70% of full deflection. And yes, this behavior seems to be built-in to the sticks themselves, no calibration on the OS side seem to help.
I did mine several months ago. I did this, a transparent back plate from jsaux, added a dbrand skin to the front, got the killswitch, got the baseus external battery and d brand battery holder for the killswitch. Only thing left is a 2 tb ssd. Soon as they come down in price that is!
Great guide! Seems like if you bought the base version and are upgrading the SSD, you might as well do these at the same time. Otherwise waiting is probably the best bet like you suggested :)
I love the content. It’s awesome people like me who don’t have most of these devices find themselves watching all your videos because they are so informative without being super boring!
for those having issues with this new gulikit sensor on their new transparent JSAUX front and Back kit ( if you having a stick that stuck on one end or both ), uninstall the board, take it out, take off the cap, sand down their plastic piece the lower just abit. the gulikit sensor way too tall so its stuck in the jsaux body.
Thanks for the video! I just started having issues with my right stick on my deck last month so I was looking at picking up this set. Thanks for the concise video!
I did this with the soldering needed versions. You can over tighten the PCB screws for the sticks. This could cause the thumb stick dome to bind on the deck's case. So less is more, you'll feel if it's not right by doing sprials and zig zags on the sticks, so don't put the back on until they feel good at all stick positions.
So like.. I'm a Q3 Type A stick steamdeck owner. I've got about 40 hours of gameplay actually on my sticks. The sticks that came with it have drift downwards at anything below 2300 in the calibration settings and have been that way since I got it. So I guess I'm a try these out.
IT's actually why I used my steamdeck as a windows device for the last year. I can't justify anything but d-pad and final fantasy with the current stick situation.
Got these because just about a month after I got my deck it wasn't great at re-centering the sticks, and I was opening it anyways for an SSD upgrade, so why not, they're great so far
The original sticks that shipped with my Deck were creaky and awful. At the time, I was just thankful to actually get the Steam Deck, as this was back when Valve was originally just trying to catch up with their order queue, so I certainly wasn't going to return it over the sticks having some sort of defect, knowing that they were designed to be easily replaceable anyway. Still, it took me too long to get around to this upgrade, but it made a world of difference, and I would highly recommend it to anyone as basically essential.
I was thinking of getting some, but the stock sticks are fine as they are. If my 'Deck develops stick drift or if somehow the sticks got damaged, I'd get some, but right now I'm happy and I'd rather save money right now to put towards an OLED Steam Deck. When I get an OLED model, I'll probably install all the lovely stuff on it, like a Honeywell Thermal Pad, Hall-Effect sticks, a 2 TB SSD, custom buttons and the like.
Great review! Since you were removing the back should have done a repaste, swap for bigger SSD & rear backplate change (JSAUX heat sink version). This is what I did to mine and it made a pretty big difference, much quieter and cooler now with more space it’s Max Deck 😎
You may need to change the dead zone manually to have any actual increase in precision or responsiveness. That said even Linus from LTT didn't notice an improvement in precision/responsiveness in his ultimate steam deck video and he's a big nerd about that kinda stuff, so its benefit could just be overblown marketing for hall sensing sticks.
@@homebrewGT2 Claiming no deadzone [which they explicitly do for their controller using the same tech] is the same thing as claiming better precision. The whole point of deadzone is to offset phantom movements from imprecise sticks. they also explicitly mention a smaller center offset on the Deck stick product page compared to stock.
@@JubalVoid This. Gulikit is massively overhyped, imo. I remember the Odin community gushing over those sticks, but it turned out that the cheap-ass Retroid hall effect sticks are a much better replacement.
@@gabo007x1 I am curious if it's just the impact of user calibration rather than factory calibration. The sticks do seem slightly better, but most of the drop-in versions aren't impressing like the stock-installed versions of the same tech.
@@JubalVoid Seeing as there are two options to calibrate the sticks on those android based devices with one being objectively better than the other, you might be on to something.
It's not correct to say it's only a preventative mod with no effect on the feel, that is only true if you leave the deadzone at it's default calibration for the stock sticks. With hall effect sticks because they are so accurate you can turn the deadzone off if you like and get a large bump in precision.
In theory you can play at a higher range of motion with these since you can remove your deadzone entirely (there's a small deadzone by default since the out-of-box joysticks need it). In practice, however, some games don't like 0 deadzone and even with the anti-deadzone options in steam input it can be hard to take full advantage of it in those games.
Perfect sticks to emulate Nintendo games. Also I want to replace my joysticks soon because the plastic is cracking slowly. I'd like to replace them before they crack more.
isn't it common knowledge that hall sensor sticks don't have stick drift and haven't we known this for a while? Why wouldn't valve go that route originally?
if you are even just a little careful ya don't need to unplug the battery. can just power down fully and leave it for 20-30mins. i only mention that because ive seen a lot of people destroy the cord or port the cord goes into trying to unplug it with too much force. much more than ive seen people not unplugging it and ruining their deck.
I recently did this mod with the same upgraded model of sticks. The instructions that came with mine didn't say anything about the command, and instead instructed to use the small buttons on the PCB of the thumbstick to adjust the center point in the calibration setting screen. I had heard the command can result in sticks hitting 100% when only partially pushed. I ended up taking mine out though, because I mostly got them to make the deadzone smaller, but mine had a dead zone that barely fit inside the default Steam Deck setting. They were way worse than the stock ones. I'm keeping them as backups if my sticks ever drift, but I was pretty disappointed overall.
The reason you're not feeling the difference is because you've not adjusted your deadzone. There's probably a good 7mm diameter of stick drift at least with mine, so I had to set the deadzone high enough to get around that. With a kit like this, you can set the deadzone to or almost to zero.
This is weird because it’s actually a huge upgrade if it stops all drift because you can go into the settings and turn off your dead zones which makes them feel way way better for a lot of games like shooters.
these sticks also have near 0 deadzone. The standard sticks do not. This makes a _massive_ difference for certain games such as first person shooters. (you do need to decrease the deadzone in steam settings yourself)
I am going to wait until I actually get stick drift before ordering the B version of those. If Valves sourced joystick part quality is good then it should be quite a while before this happens considering I only put my SteamDeck through light use most of the time. Regardless I do like that the option for hall effect sticks exists now so the replacements are technically better than the originals.
the other advantage of the hall effect sticks, is you can decrease the actual size of the dead zone making the sticks more responsive... it can be decreased a good amount!
I think I've expend more time finagling with the deck than actually playing games with it. And I LOVE IT. Won't you do a full cover replace video? Honestly, the customization of the 'deck is what sold me over the Ally. Happy vacations!
Honestly I didn't suffer stick drift, but I still upgraded to these because I didn't want to have to deal with drift in the future and I own Guilikit's Kong2 controller which I've been very happy with. My only problem with them is despite Guilikit stating the sticks will never re-center properly due to Valve's design, mine seem to need recalibrating with each restart as they drift slightly out of calibration. Granted its nothing crazy that would prevent them from being usable, but its just really annoying every so often having to switch to desktop mode to use the software recalibration tool.
I don't have drift but my left stick has a weird spot that's a bit stiffer than the rest of the joystick. It feels better now that i opened it up, cleaned and lubed it but it still has what feels like a small bump or something, so I've been interested in replacement sticks, but I'd rather not have to desolder and resolder tbe caps for capacitive touch if i can avoid it, and these ones are a lot more readily available than the Valve ones. Since my stick feels weird im worried it might get worse soon and id rather be safe and have a replacement handy.
The only discrepancy i have putting hall effects on the Steam Deck is the portable aspect: the hall effect sticks are *magnetic* meaning if power gets low, the sticks will start to malfunction. So my questions are: How does the Hall Effects affect battery life? Do they begin to malfunction at low battery power?
@@Neon_Plasma The revised solder-free version does are second gen, there is one real caveat for gulikit sticks (both old and new revisions) tho, that is the "square" shaped active zone, rendering some specific games unplayable.
Hi Russ, first of all, love your content. I based my Steam Deck purchase on your recommendation. I wanted to ask you aboutt the Clicky buttons and if you are going to try them on the Steam Deck? I'm curious to know your thoughts on the D-Pad mod and if its going to help with retro games. The classic Contra test would do it :)
AWESOME work, as always. PRO TIP: a good drop can also crack those side clips loose … though you may want to just take my word for it rather than trying it at home. Luckily for me, no Steam Decks were harmed in the making this personal revelation. It was an incredibly unnerving experience, though.
I've had my set for a month now the non solder, I don't ever get drift (knock on wood) I bought them just incase and so I'd already have them on backup.
if there anyone noticed that you`re using a different thumb sticks, I think they are paranormal or something, its look identical with the stocks thumb sticks
ive seen a few people on reddit have issues but overall ive never had any issues once i had to recalibrate my sticks cause occasionally my right stick when i was using it would be overly sensitive when moving it down after re calibrating and cleaning haven't had issues since. good to know its not hard at all. my only question that silver tape. is it needed or can you throw it away I saw you put it back at the end of your installation.
I just bought a steam deck in Mexico but the Y axis does not work (up and down movements) and I would not like to have to send it for service because I will have to spend on shipping. The X axis works well, the crosshairs, pad and external devices also work well. Do you think that the problem of lack of movement of the Y axis should be solved only by purchasing one set of sticks and installing it or could another part be involved in this problem?...please, if any of you can light me
I don't have stick drift but my right stick clicks everytime move it over 45 degrees to the right. It's super annoying and I might get these just because of that annoying QC problem. My right trigger also clicks at the end of the trigger pull (no not haptic feedback). As this was a later Steam deck I'm pretty disappointed with Valve's QC.
I just got these for Christmas and I must say I am disappointed. They feel super rough and almost like they are grinding against something when I move them. I am going to try and return them because they feel so awful compared to the stock sticks. Hopefully it was just a fluke but both of them felt that way.
9:26 hard to get stick drift if the base deadzones are 8000 if i put it down to 1000 i have stick drift on my brand new steam deck would those sticks get rid of that stick drift?
Do the hall sensors have different sensitivity? I heard some people were having trouble with racing games after the mod (but i think it was addressable via adjusting dead zone? Or perhaps just recalibrating? Unclear)
I think I've seen mention of issues with the "max tilt" of the sticks and the dead zones being potentially calibrated wrong which leads to having to widen your dead zone via software. The tilt issue can't be fixed, afaik.
Do they have extra resistance comapred to OEM? I bought guilkit's sticks for switch and had that happen to me. Convinced me to only switch to Guilikit when the drift started happening, not before
Heres a tip for everyone. I have had these sticks since Feb of this year. In steam settings you can shrink the Deadzone down to literally 0. It will give you alot better control and feel more responsive. I absolutely love the sticks myself. Great video as always man cheers.
I lowered mine by a bit but now I'm gonna try this lol
Good tip, thanks!
this an absolute must to do. Otherwise you just got anti stick drift sticks. With a lower deadzone, you got _good_ sticks
I'm a simple man, when Retro Game Corps post a video, I click... and I don't even own a Steam Deck. Great Job Russ!
Same 🙌
Russ can and did make a video about Chicken and we'd still watch 😂
In between retro game corps videos i like to sit down and think about my place in the universe, the next retro game corps video should be ready by then
Haha me too.
I don't own a Steam Deck and don't plan on ever getting one. Hell, it's not even officially available in my country. However, it's a Retro Game Corps video, so you know I'm watching it!
BTW: If you scroll down a bit further in the systems menu and click on "Model/Serial Numbers" in the Hardware section it will spell out the type of sticks named "Type A/Type B" on the parts overview screen.
I remember getting stick drift in my PlayStation controllers and realizing that this was going to be my life until I could scrape enough money together for a new controller. What a time to be alive where issues like this have an affordable and operable solution
The DualShock 2 actually had calibration functionality in its sticks to prevent stick drift. You just had to press L3+R3 at the same time and do a 360 rotation on both sticks, and it would recalibrate them. Sadly, it was literally the only controller to ever have that feature.
@@Hey-Its-Dingo I don't understand why they don't just do this by default whenever the controller turns on
well, money...
@@snowzZzZz The DualShock 2 is the PS2 controller from 23 years ago, they should 100% be able to just do this in every controller. So yeah, it's money.
The really crazy thing is that although the PS2 controller may have had a calibration feature, it never developed drift in any case. And I played the shit out of my PS2! In fact, I don't ever remember getting stick drift on ANY controller, until the last (PS4) console generation. It's TOTALLY abt money - not only are they deliberately not using HALL sensor sticks, they're actually using parts which are DESIGNED TO FAIL after a year of normal use.
@@jimdoom2276 The PS2 didn't use HALL sensors either, it was just better made.
I tried these and went back to stock. The dead zones were impressive but the input fields are squared not round, which led to diagonal input registering slower and less precise than stock sticks. If they can make the input area circular instead of squared these will be worth it to me, and i would try them again.
This is good to know!
I got the elecgear brand because they said the input fields were round. I installed them and they are indeed round. They seem to work great so far.
Great and valuable information! Why TF would they do that??
I got a stick drift with the right stick, it now lives it's own life with the camera going slowly up and right in the games... So I remembered about this video and ordered my pair of gulikit sticks
Did you swap them out? How did it go? My right stick is the same. It’s own life, its own dreams.
I already did it just because. I didn't want to have to worry about stick drift ever and I really love the Gulikit Pro controller on my PC, so for $30 and no soldering I was in. The hardest part is dealing with the ribbon cables. Like you said, I don't feel/notice any difference with these, but there is peace of mind with them.
You needn't have bothered.. the SD sticks don't suffer drift.
@@jorisbonson386 uuuh yes they do.
my left stick on DAY ONE drifted downwards very very easily as soon as i lowered the left stick downwards a tiny bit. This was on an early unit in April 2022.
Anyway thankfully Steam has a dead zone calibration so that helps a lot
@@heyjeySigma Exactly.
Perfect video. My wife got a steam deck in January and within 6 months the left stick developed a problem with it literally sticking to the upper right. It can be fixed by simply moving it but it does cause her to get annoyed. So I might just upgrade them for her to save her some trouble.
Wow, I bought the original Gulikit sticks last year for when I have to replace my Steam Deck analog sticks. Pretty cool that Gulikit finally made ones that don't need to be soldered. Saves me more money from having to buy a quality soldering iron. I just wish that these new sticks were made in the first place instead of the ones that I bought (which need to be soldered) but oh well
This is the mod I'll upgrade when stick drift happens and might as well upgrade the 2230 to 2tb when it gets to that point. Doesn't make sense to change out now when everything is working fine. Great video as usual.
My thoughts exactly. I thought, "well, this is good to know if I ever get stick drift. At the same time I will also purchase an upgraded SSD and do both."
The SSD is super easy to change…so you don’t need to wait. You just have to make sure you remove your SD card
Better to wait anyways for the gen 2 hall sticks
@@Neon_Plasmayeah considering you can set massive dead zones the deck anyway
I literally installed these two days ago, and I love them so much - they have this very unique feel that I can't get enough of, I'd recommend upgrading even if your sticks don't drift at all
I’ve been using the new sticks for a month - my left joystick was a little taller than stock and caused the joystick to stick when pushed to the full direction 1/4 of the time. This was fixed by loosening the mounting screws, though the board is now not as secure as the right joystick. It’s also worth mentioning the square active zones with these joysticks.
I would switch out the sticks if you are having this issue man. Sounds unpleasant and would drive me banannas.
Sometimes the sticks get a little pulled from their socket during transportation. Have you tried pressing the stick (as if you were pressing L3, but harder) to see if it somehow goes back in?
Even though I have no need to get the new sticks it's awesome we have people like you to make these vids. You've answered anything I can think of wanting to know. How it feels to take it apart, how it feels to see it's guts, and other stuff that this vid may come in handy for. That's important and more than just the directions. Everyone new to this will feel awkward and it helps you did too haha. Really tells them how they will likely feel. Thanks good sir.
Im so happy these exist I was so worried my stick drift was gonna cost a lot to fix
I've been a fan for years, your videos on the RG351V convinced me to get on, today I'm picking up a Steam Deck which are still hard to come by here in NZ, I'm excited!
Thanks for the info again. You've held it down here online. I appreciate your unique presence in this flooded economy of tech/gaming personalities. Peace
This channel is absolutely awesome. I have learned so much about emulation and retro handhelds. In fact, if I hadn’t have found this very channel, I would know nothing. So thanks Retro Game Corps!
I'm thinking about adding these sticks just as a precautionary measure. Thanks for the tutorial.
by the way the deadzones are squares and not circles with these so games that have more precise movement will make problems perhaps
One thing you forgot to mention is that due to their higher precision hall sensors allow you to set a much smaller dead zone. Almost a zero dead zone actually. The dead zone must be set in the system settings. But it's very easy to do: it can be done from the standard settings GUI without even having to go to the desktop mode or the CLI.
These new version of Gulikit sticks which have built-in A/B switch and free of soldering was a blast for me at first, until I find out there's some issues.
The center deadzone is all good, but on the outer side the sticks seem to report 100% values way before being fully deflected. This means comparing to the stock sticks, these ones will report a higher off-center value when being pushed out the same physical angle, making them to feel way more sensitive than normal. On my unit it's about 70% of full deflection. And yes, this behavior seems to be built-in to the sticks themselves, no calibration on the OS side seem to help.
I did mine several months ago. I did this, a transparent back plate from jsaux, added a dbrand skin to the front, got the killswitch, got the baseus external battery and d brand battery holder for the killswitch. Only thing left is a 2 tb ssd. Soon as they come down in price that is!
I knew that guli sticks would be available for the steam deck
They've been a great upgrade to the switch too
Great guide! Seems like if you bought the base version and are upgrading the SSD, you might as well do these at the same time. Otherwise waiting is probably the best bet like you suggested :)
You should upgrade the ssd anyways even if you bought the 512 version.
Unless all you play are games less than 10GB, a 1TB ssd will be better
@@latibassI bought the base model with a 1TB micro SD because all I’m doing is emulating, so no need for anything more.
Valve are the real ones for making it so easy for us.
Nice to know the option's there! I've put a pair on my Amazon wishlist and I'll grab them if I ever develop a fault, I guess.
I love the content. It’s awesome people like me who don’t have most of these devices find themselves watching all your videos because they are so informative without being super boring!
I went ahead and picked these up as I was doing a full shell swap anyway. Definitely a preventative “might as well” kind of maneuver.
Glad you say it’s not essential mod. Always though it was odd to replace your sticks so that you don’t ever need to replace your sticks.
for those having issues with this new gulikit sensor on their new transparent JSAUX front and Back kit ( if you having a stick that stuck on one end or both ), uninstall the board, take it out, take off the cap, sand down their plastic piece the lower just abit. the gulikit sensor way too tall so its stuck in the jsaux body.
Thanks for the video! I just started having issues with my right stick on my deck last month so I was looking at picking up this set. Thanks for the concise video!
This is like watching a surgeon look at those steady hands!
I did this with the soldering needed versions. You can over tighten the PCB screws for the sticks. This could cause the thumb stick dome to bind on the deck's case. So less is more, you'll feel if it's not right by doing sprials and zig zags on the sticks, so don't put the back on until they feel good at all stick positions.
So like.. I'm a Q3 Type A stick steamdeck owner. I've got about 40 hours of gameplay actually on my sticks. The sticks that came with it have drift downwards at anything below 2300 in the calibration settings and have been that way since I got it. So I guess I'm a try these out.
IT's actually why I used my steamdeck as a windows device for the last year. I can't justify anything but d-pad and final fantasy with the current stick situation.
Got these because just about a month after I got my deck it wasn't great at re-centering the sticks, and I was opening it anyways for an SSD upgrade, so why not, they're great so far
The original sticks that shipped with my Deck were creaky and awful. At the time, I was just thankful to actually get the Steam Deck, as this was back when Valve was originally just trying to catch up with their order queue, so I certainly wasn't going to return it over the sticks having some sort of defect, knowing that they were designed to be easily replaceable anyway. Still, it took me too long to get around to this upgrade, but it made a world of difference, and I would highly recommend it to anyone as basically essential.
I just installed some guilikit sticks on my switch lite. Well worth it.
I was thinking of getting some, but the stock sticks are fine as they are.
If my 'Deck develops stick drift or if somehow the sticks got damaged, I'd get some, but right now I'm happy and I'd rather save money right now to put towards an OLED Steam Deck.
When I get an OLED model, I'll probably install all the lovely stuff on it, like a Honeywell Thermal Pad, Hall-Effect sticks, a 2 TB SSD, custom buttons and the like.
ive got that exact killswitch setup on my deck too! love the magma skin
He's on vacation and still sharing content 🎉🎉🎉
For projects like this I like using an old ice cube tray to keep the screws in order.
Great review! Since you were removing the back should have done a repaste, swap for bigger SSD & rear backplate change (JSAUX heat sink version). This is what I did to mine and it made a pretty big difference, much quieter and cooler now with more space it’s Max Deck 😎
Awesome vid! Would love to see you talk about the ntendo ds and i's, i feel like you would be the perfect guy to talk about them!
You may need to change the dead zone manually to have any actual increase in precision or responsiveness. That said even Linus from LTT didn't notice an improvement in precision/responsiveness in his ultimate steam deck video and he's a big nerd about that kinda stuff, so its benefit could just be overblown marketing for hall sensing sticks.
the selling point is that they wont ever have drift, never claimed more precision :v
@@homebrewGT2 Claiming no deadzone [which they explicitly do for their controller using the same tech] is the same thing as claiming better precision. The whole point of deadzone is to offset phantom movements from imprecise sticks. they also explicitly mention a smaller center offset on the Deck stick product page compared to stock.
@@JubalVoid This. Gulikit is massively overhyped, imo. I remember the Odin community gushing over those sticks, but it turned out that the cheap-ass Retroid hall effect sticks are a much better replacement.
@@gabo007x1 I am curious if it's just the impact of user calibration rather than factory calibration. The sticks do seem slightly better, but most of the drop-in versions aren't impressing like the stock-installed versions of the same tech.
@@JubalVoid Seeing as there are two options to calibrate the sticks on those android based devices with one being objectively better than the other, you might be on to something.
It's not correct to say it's only a preventative mod with no effect on the feel, that is only true if you leave the deadzone at it's default calibration for the stock sticks. With hall effect sticks because they are so accurate you can turn the deadzone off if you like and get a large bump in precision.
In theory you can play at a higher range of motion with these since you can remove your deadzone entirely (there's a small deadzone by default since the out-of-box joysticks need it). In practice, however, some games don't like 0 deadzone and even with the anti-deadzone options in steam input it can be hard to take full advantage of it in those games.
Perfect sticks to emulate Nintendo games. Also I want to replace my joysticks soon because the plastic is cracking slowly. I'd like to replace them before they crack more.
isn't it common knowledge that hall sensor sticks don't have stick drift and haven't we known this for a while? Why wouldn't valve go that route originally?
if you are even just a little careful ya don't need to unplug the battery. can just power down fully and leave it for 20-30mins. i only mention that because ive seen a lot of people destroy the cord or port the cord goes into trying to unplug it with too much force. much more than ive seen people not unplugging it and ruining their deck.
I recently did this mod with the same upgraded model of sticks. The instructions that came with mine didn't say anything about the command, and instead instructed to use the small buttons on the PCB of the thumbstick to adjust the center point in the calibration setting screen. I had heard the command can result in sticks hitting 100% when only partially pushed.
I ended up taking mine out though, because I mostly got them to make the deadzone smaller, but mine had a dead zone that barely fit inside the default Steam Deck setting. They were way worse than the stock ones. I'm keeping them as backups if my sticks ever drift, but I was pretty disappointed overall.
The reason you're not feeling the difference is because you've not adjusted your deadzone. There's probably a good 7mm diameter of stick drift at least with mine, so I had to set the deadzone high enough to get around that. With a kit like this, you can set the deadzone to or almost to zero.
Really hope they make some of these modules for the Ally as well
Gonna get these, surprised how cheap they are for a pretty considerable upgrade
This is weird because it’s actually a huge upgrade if it stops all drift because you can go into the settings and turn off your dead zones which makes them feel way way better for a lot of games like shooters.
these sticks also have near 0 deadzone. The standard sticks do not. This makes a _massive_ difference for certain games such as first person shooters. (you do need to decrease the deadzone in steam settings yourself)
This is the first mod of many I did on my deck
Oh my god it's available for $20 on a local online shop 😁
Also I was hoping for you to change the deadzone to 0, bit disappointed by that. 😅
I am going to wait until I actually get stick drift before ordering the B version of those. If Valves sourced joystick part quality is good then it should be quite a while before this happens considering I only put my SteamDeck through light use most of the time. Regardless I do like that the option for hall effect sticks exists now so the replacements are technically better than the originals.
the other advantage of the hall effect sticks, is you can decrease the actual size of the dead zone making the sticks more responsive... it can be decreased a good amount!
I did get stick drift on the right joystick but these weren’t out yet so I replaced with OEM one. Thanks
I think I've expend more time finagling with the deck than actually playing games with it. And I LOVE IT. Won't you do a full cover replace video? Honestly, the customization of the 'deck is what sold me over the Ally. Happy vacations!
Tinkering is half the fun man.
Honestly I didn't suffer stick drift, but I still upgraded to these because I didn't want to have to deal with drift in the future and I own Guilikit's Kong2 controller which I've been very happy with. My only problem with them is despite Guilikit stating the sticks will never re-center properly due to Valve's design, mine seem to need recalibrating with each restart as they drift slightly out of calibration. Granted its nothing crazy that would prevent them from being usable, but its just really annoying every so often having to switch to desktop mode to use the software recalibration tool.
"Upgrade"? 🤔
I don't have drift but my left stick has a weird spot that's a bit stiffer than the rest of the joystick. It feels better now that i opened it up, cleaned and lubed it but it still has what feels like a small bump or something, so I've been interested in replacement sticks, but I'd rather not have to desolder and resolder tbe caps for capacitive touch if i can avoid it, and these ones are a lot more readily available than the Valve ones. Since my stick feels weird im worried it might get worse soon and id rather be safe and have a replacement handy.
The only discrepancy i have putting hall effects on the Steam Deck is the portable aspect: the hall effect sticks are *magnetic* meaning if power gets low, the sticks will start to malfunction.
So my questions are: How does the Hall Effects affect battery life? Do they begin to malfunction at low battery power?
The second gen sticks don't have the power draw issues of the first gen. Unfortunately gulikit sticks are first gen.
@@Neon_Plasma The revised solder-free version does are second gen, there is one real caveat for gulikit sticks (both old and new revisions) tho, that is the "square" shaped active zone, rendering some specific games unplayable.
One tip:
Use the official Steam Deck case to hold the Deck.
Hi Russ, first of all, love your content. I based my Steam Deck purchase on your recommendation. I wanted to ask you aboutt the Clicky buttons and if you are going to try them on the Steam Deck? I'm curious to know your thoughts on the D-Pad mod and if its going to help with retro games. The classic Contra test would do it :)
I love those pillows where did you purchased them at?
Never had stick drift on the deck. The switch on the other hand...
I may do this upgrade though.
Good call, “if you have stick drift a good mod to do if not no need for it”
Just swapped out my switch joysticks 2 days ago I really hope they last cuz I've gone through 4 sets of joycons
AWESOME work, as always. PRO TIP: a good drop can also crack those side clips loose … though you may want to just take my word for it rather than trying it at home. Luckily for me, no Steam Decks were harmed in the making this personal revelation. It was an incredibly unnerving experience, though.
Oh... I am absolutely doing this.
This is less a mod for stick drift but more a mode to eliminate the stick deadzone completely.
I’m looking for the OLED stick replacement. The internals are different.
Very good idea
Hey great vid! Is there an option to completely turn off the joysticks? Thanks!
Nice shirt man
I've had my set for a month now the non solder, I don't ever get drift (knock on wood) I bought them just incase and so I'd already have them on backup.
Do you know if they are planning on making custom colored ?
if there anyone noticed that you`re using a different thumb sticks, I think they are paranormal or something, its look identical with the stocks thumb sticks
we really need a d-pad replacement for the SD because the stock d-pad suxxxxxxxx. really difficult for fighting games.
I need to say I love that decal, do you have any link for it?
ive seen a few people on reddit have issues but overall ive never had any issues once i had to recalibrate my sticks cause occasionally my right stick when i was using it would be overly sensitive when moving it down after re calibrating and cleaning haven't had issues since. good to know its not hard at all. my only question that silver tape. is it needed or can you throw it away I saw you put it back at the end of your installation.
I just bought a steam deck in Mexico but the Y axis does not work (up and down movements) and I would not like to have to send it for service because I will have to spend on shipping. The X axis works well, the crosshairs, pad and external devices also work well. Do you think that the problem of lack of movement of the Y axis should be solved only by purchasing one set of sticks and installing it or could another part be involved in this problem?...please, if any of you can light me
so i try them and have no idea how to calibrated on windows 10.
You skipped over the most important part in which control id is needed for MHDA2510c61D
I don't have stick drift but my right stick clicks everytime move it over 45 degrees to the right. It's super annoying and I might get these just because of that annoying QC problem. My right trigger also clicks at the end of the trigger pull (no not haptic feedback). As this was a later Steam deck I'm pretty disappointed with Valve's QC.
I just got these for Christmas and I must say I am disappointed. They feel super rough and almost like they are grinding against something when I move them. I am going to try and return them because they feel so awful compared to the stock sticks. Hopefully it was just a fluke but both of them felt that way.
so good
Before doing all this remember to remove the SDCard if you have one
fellow neo viewer spotted
Could you do a similar tutorial to replace the ABXY buttons?
I would swap the sticks if I’m doing a full shell swap and ssd upgrade
I wonder what the difference is between the version A and B sticks.
Is there a difference in the oled and reg steam deck stick because the oled ones are black and i prefer that look
9:26
hard to get stick drift if the base deadzones are 8000 if i put it down to 1000 i have stick drift on my brand new steam deck would those sticks get rid of that stick drift?
Do the hall sensors have different sensitivity? I heard some people were having trouble with racing games after the mod (but i think it was addressable via adjusting dead zone? Or perhaps just recalibrating? Unclear)
I think I've seen mention of issues with the "max tilt" of the sticks and the dead zones being potentially calibrated wrong which leads to having to widen your dead zone via software. The tilt issue can't be fixed, afaik.
Did you lower the sticks deadzones?
Do they have extra resistance comapred to OEM? I bought guilkit's sticks for switch and had that happen to me. Convinced me to only switch to Guilikit when the drift started happening, not before
No extra resistance on these, they feel the same as the originals.
Can’t wait till the hall sensor sticks start drifting 🤣
Do you need to adjust the dead zone with the hall sensors?