The ease with which it rotates is also proof the gears are in good shape and well lubricated. Proof that this brush hog has been well maintained, not all bent, busted, abused, and broken down as some farm implements I have seen. Some folks just don't give a damn about their equipment. Kudos to you for showing us a good example as my father has always taught me.
Thanks, As a teenager I worked for an older farmer who taught me the value of maintaining your equipment. He used to say grease is cheep... Thanks for the comment
@@thistlehillfarmstead9131 yup the old folks were always common sense, down to earth kinda folks. I grew up in a very blue collar family my father's dad was born in 1901 and started logging when he was in his early teens and was still doing it when he was 90. My mother's father was also a logger and log truck driver when he was young. My father followed in his father's footsteps and did logging and log truck driving in his early years. Like you they all taught me the value of maintenance. You are most welcome.
Great instructional video. I just broke my shear pin this past weekend, so your video is a perfect opportunity for me to do additional maintenance on my mower. Thank you!
I have the same cutter. Just sheared that shear pin a few days ago and it was also grade 8. Manual says grade 2, so that's what I bought. Thanks for the video! I may need to change the gearbox oil as well, since it has been a few years.
Thanks for the video, I have the same unit and it's time to sharpen the blades , I will definitely follow your instructions . I enjoy working on my tractor and the land. God bless .
Your supposed to lose the clutch plates then energize the pto a couple times to burn in your clutch the tighten clutch back up using a 4mm thickness gage to set the slip. If slip is set right you will not break the bolt
Exact same thing happened to me. It was the first time I had used the mower for the season. Service told me I needed to slip the clutch a couple times as it can tend to stick over long periods of non-use due to rust. They told me to mark the bolts and then loosen them about a half turn or so. Then engage and disengage the PTO a few times and then retighten the bolts back to their original position.
Good video, thanks. The bolt you describe as a shear pin should actually be the grade 8 bolt that broke. It is not meant to shear since your cutter has a slip clutch. The info in the manual is confusing but it is there. A grade 2 bolt is meant to shear on shafts that dont have a slip clutch. The key is adjusting the gap on the clutch to 4 mm as others have stated and periodically loosening the bolts and "slipping" the clutch. This is impossible with the ridiculous plasti guard on the Frontier cutters. Also, you should have a drain plug down low on the front side of the gear box which allows draining the oil without using that giant syringe. Thanks for the video.
My RC2060 gearbox had more oil then that come out. It didn't look milky but I think that is condensate in the gearbox. I checked the level when I bought it and it was just up to the hole. My gearbox doesn't have a sight glass so I fill it till it runs out of the hole. I would use a grade 2 or 5 bolt in case your discs don't slip like they should. I used a grade 8 bolt and twisted the inner tube on the PTO shaft.
I agree, but for me they are still just a little to expensive. If I only had one implement it may be worth it, but I have several and don't want to buy and end for each one.
I just keep my end on the PTO shaft and then when I remove implements, just take that one off and put it on the next. I thought having multiple pieces was a bit expensive too.
The manual for this model cutter specifies 1/2" x 3-1/2" Grade 2 bolt and locknut. The shear bolts are designed to protect the gear box and the tractor, do not install higher grade bolts because you can increase the shear force by thousands of pounds beyond what the drive system is rated for.
John Deere does no long make the rotor mower and many other attachments. They contract with Fronteer. On reason for excess oil in the mower gearbox is so that when it breaks in, there will be a lot of iron filings that will shear off. This oil will keep the filings suspended. So when you change the gear oil you will not need all the extra oil because the gearbox is by now broken in.
I just took my RC2060 PTO shaft apart. Biggest problem was the snap ring on the front of the shaft that comes out of the gearbox. I didn't see you remove or reinstall it. Is it not necessary? You can see the groove for the clip at 2:48 in the video
@@anthonymorrison2167 I had a small pair of 90 degree snap pliers. After about 45 minutes I got lucky and snagged it. I can't see how I will get it back on. It was a royal pain
I didn"t even know there was one on there I thought you just took the bolt out and pulled it off it looks nearly impossible to get to thanks for the answer.@@cboj64
Nice video and helpful, too. It appears that your rear skirt and chains assembly is missing on your mower. Will you continue to run it witout or are you scheduling a replacement?
Yes it is missing. I used this while cleaning up some land and did what you should not typically do... which is backing up and cutting. I hit some stumps and debris and broke it off. I have been meaning to replace it, but I am usually mowing in the field away from everyone and everything.
You better work on slip clutch you will continue to shear bolt. Correct size 10. 3 or . 8 mm for shear bolt. I learned all this from hard experience. You clutch is probably froze together.
The ease with which it rotates is also proof the gears are in good shape and well lubricated. Proof that this brush hog has been well maintained, not all bent, busted, abused, and broken down as some farm implements I have seen. Some folks just don't give a damn about their equipment. Kudos to you for showing us a good example as my father has always taught me.
Thanks, As a teenager I worked for an older farmer who taught me the value of maintaining your equipment. He used to say grease is cheep... Thanks for the comment
@@thistlehillfarmstead9131 yup the old folks were always common sense, down to earth kinda folks. I grew up in a very blue collar family my father's dad was born in 1901 and started logging when he was in his early teens and was still doing it when he was 90. My mother's father was also a logger and log truck driver when he was young. My father followed in his father's footsteps and did logging and log truck driving in his early years. Like you they all taught me the value of maintenance.
You are most welcome.
Great instructional video. I just broke my shear pin this past weekend, so your video is a perfect opportunity for me to do additional maintenance on my mower. Thank you!
Thanks, straight forward, and you see where everything is. Very helpful.
I have the same cutter. Just sheared that shear pin a few days ago and it was also grade 8. Manual says grade 2, so that's what I bought. Thanks for the video! I may need to change the gearbox oil as well, since it has been a few years.
I needed to know how to get to the grease fitting on the pto and you showed me how to. Thanks. 🇺🇸
Ya saved me a lot of time figuring this out. Many thanks.
Thanks for the video, I have the same unit and it's time to sharpen the blades , I will definitely follow your instructions . I enjoy working on my tractor and the land. God bless .
Glad I could help
Just picked up one of these that a friend of mine no longer had a use for. Lots of good info in this video. Keep up the good work sir.
Thanks, Glad it helped.
Your supposed to lose the clutch plates then energize the pto a couple times to burn in your clutch the tighten clutch back up using a 4mm thickness gage to set the slip. If slip is set right you will not break the bolt
Thanks for the info. I had been using it for over a year when the bolt broke, nit sure it I hit some or not.
Exact same thing happened to me. It was the first time I had used the mower for the season. Service told me I needed to slip the clutch a couple times as it can tend to stick over long periods of non-use due to rust. They told me to mark the bolts and then loosen them about a half turn or so. Then engage and disengage the PTO a few times and then retighten the bolts back to their original position.
Great detail in greasing the rear universal joint by the gear box.
Great video. I would have greased the front universal joint , the shaft and the plastic guard too. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback. Always welcome
I like that you take safety seriously!
Good video, thanks. The bolt you describe as a shear pin should actually be the grade 8 bolt that broke. It is not meant to shear since your cutter has a slip clutch. The info in the manual is confusing but it is there. A grade 2 bolt is meant to shear on shafts that dont have a slip clutch. The key is adjusting the gap on the clutch to 4 mm as others have stated and periodically loosening the bolts and "slipping" the clutch. This is impossible with the ridiculous plasti guard on the Frontier cutters. Also, you should have a drain plug down low on the front side of the gear box which allows draining the oil without using that giant syringe. Thanks for the video.
My RC2060 gearbox had more oil then that come out. It didn't look milky but I think that is condensate in the gearbox. I checked the level when I bought it and it was just up to the hole. My gearbox doesn't have a sight glass so I fill it till it runs out of the hole. I would use a grade 2 or 5 bolt in case your discs don't slip like they should. I used a grade 8 bolt and twisted the inner tube on the PTO shaft.
A PTO link makes connecting/disconnecting so much easier! I was having issue with my arthritis in my hands and this has all but eliminated the problem
I agree, but for me they are still just a little to expensive. If I only had one implement it may be worth it, but I have several and don't want to buy and end for each one.
@@thistlehillfarmstead9131
I just keep my end on the PTO shaft and then when I remove implements, just take that one off and put it on the next. I thought having multiple pieces was a bit expensive too.
Just FYI. The bolt in your clutch is supposed to be grade 8 because the clutch needs to be adjusted. 4mm is your clutch adjustment
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.
The manual for this model cutter specifies 1/2" x 3-1/2" Grade 2 bolt and locknut. The shear bolts are designed to protect the gear box and the tractor, do not install higher grade bolts because you can increase the shear force by thousands of pounds beyond what the drive system is rated for.
did the same job but i was wondering about the retraining "C" clip on the RC2060 shaft . thanks
John Deere does no long make the rotor mower and many other attachments. They contract with Fronteer. On reason for excess oil in the mower gearbox is so that when it breaks in, there will be a lot of iron filings that will shear off. This oil will keep the filings suspended. So when you change the gear oil you will not need all the extra oil because the gearbox is by now broken in.
Thanks for the info.
Great video. Where did you get the replacement blades?
In which direction do you spin the nut on the blades?? Are they left-handed thread?? I can’t manage to break mine free
4:10 so loud that the cam went deaf 😂
If I’m not mistaken you should have a drain plug low on the other side of the gear box.
I have this model... no drain plug.
May I ask how you broke the pin. I ask because my husband ran over a small stump and heard a loud pop. The mower doesn’t turn but the PTO does.
did you have to remove a retainer clip to get the PTO shaft off the gearbox input shaft ? If so. how did you access it?
Hello sir. What size garage door is that you backed into. I'm building a shop and that looks perfect. Thank you
it is 9 feet wide x 7 feet tall or 2 Meters 75 centimeters wide x 2 Meters 13 centimeters tall
You are supposed to use new bolts when you change blades or take bolts out for any reason.
I just took my RC2060 PTO shaft apart. Biggest problem was the snap ring on the front of the shaft that comes out of the gearbox. I didn't see you remove or reinstall it. Is it not necessary? You can see the groove for the clip at 2:48 in the video
how did you remove it?
@@anthonymorrison2167 I had a small pair of 90 degree snap pliers. After about 45 minutes I got lucky and snagged it. I can't see how I will get it back on. It was a royal pain
I didn"t even know there was one on there I thought you just took the bolt out and pulled it off it looks nearly impossible to get to thanks for the answer.@@cboj64
Nice video and helpful, too. It appears that your rear skirt and chains assembly is missing on your mower. Will you continue to run it witout or are you scheduling a replacement?
Yes it is missing. I used this while cleaning up some land and did what you should not typically do... which is backing up and cutting. I hit some stumps and debris and broke it off. I have been meaning to replace it, but I am usually mowing in the field away from everyone and everything.
You better work on slip clutch you will continue to shear bolt. Correct size 10. 3 or . 8 mm for shear bolt. I learned all this from hard experience. You clutch is probably froze together.
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.
You weren't kidding when you said big syringe 😂 Neat tool!
It's a BIG'EN