Hanzifcation lol, no unfortunately I had to go through many stages before that became a possibility. I am however currently on track for having my own place which translates into a mini greenhouse and conifer nursery offering rare varieties when I can through eBay sales.
We have them in Hawaii they protect against soil erosion and I noticed how they are precipitation towers and clouds always form around them and they bring rain
Hanzifcation they suck for bonsai however I do like them as a potted plant once they start getting large. I did not appreciate them until I saw what the full size version looks like down in ft Myers Florida.
I almost bought one of these today at Walmart. They have them out EVERY year close to Christmas, BUT, my greenhouse sometimes gets down to 49F and briefly maybe 46F, so, maybe that;s too cold for it? But, in Florida, possibly it has gone down to 46F briefly? Maybe I will try it for the approx $10.00 price tag for one at Walmart. We have cats, and no place to put 1 inside the house. Plus, I was thinking that maybe in the greenhouse, it will grow more like they do in full sun, growing in the ground. Meaning the tree will look TOTALLY different than as a house plant. Just look up how they look as landscape plants, you'd NEVER think it's the same plant as the potted ones, like the one in this video. I saw a couple in Key West Florida years ago. Single trunked, much more sturdy, not lanky and loose like the ones you see as house plants, so I wanna try and get a potted one to grow for me like that. Overwintered in my greenhouse, but, during the warm months, outside in full sun. I'm hoping to get a potted one to grow like they do in the ground in warm climates, or as close as I can get to it. Key West has been known to only get down to about 60F in winter, BUT, maybe mainland South Florida has briefly gone down to 45F? I'm guessing that most people here will not be able to answer my questions, but , MAYBE I'll get lucky.
From what I've read, generally, you don't want the temperature to be below 50F for extended periods of time. One night at ~46F would probably be ok. However, if it's gonna be that cold for several days, it might not fare too well. Outdoor trees are a different case because somewhere like Florida, even if the nighttime temp drops below 50F, the ground is likely much warmer. The roots won't experience as much variation as a potted plant would. My number 1 suggestion is to avoid shock of all kinds. Moving the tree suddenly from consistent 70F to 50F or lower may be enough to kill it. Likewise, if you move an indoor plant out into full sun without gradual acclimation, it will burn. Try to make changes gradually so the plant has time to adjust. Hope this helps!
Your video is VERY informative and detailed. But, I was wondering...How do we propagate these trees. I've got one in a pot that is really old, like about 12 years old, and it is all bald of branches most of the way up and looks really stupid. All the new growth looks nice, but it's these long bare trunks on this thing that bothers me. I'd like to take cuttings from it to start new trees but have been having a problem finding out exactly how to do that. Could you please comment on that if you know how to do this?
Araucarias (a genus of trees that includes the Norfolk Island pine) are generally propagated by seed to my knowledge. Unfortunately, both a male and a female tree are required for mature cones to yield viable seeds, so in your place I would look into simply purchasing a new plant. Hope I helped!
They will eventually get brown/yellow branches at the bottom of the trunk which can be cut off. The majority (75%) of the branches should still be green at any given time though.
I bought mine back in 2018 and it's 7 feet tall. The only thing I did was: Put it in a bigger pot as soon as I bought it, placed it in front of the south side facing window, close the ac vent above it, feed it every 6 months or so, water it and just be sloppy when I'm watering it, and trim any dead limbs off it. Nothing to It
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you for your reply! I’ve got some trimming to do. These are pretty resilient I have to say but your advice in this video should put me on the right path to making this plant happier!
Have you ever tried separating the trees when they are still young like the ones you have in this video? Also, do you know if having 4 - 6 trees in a pot is detrimental to their long-term health? I have one pot with 5 trees that is similar in size to yours, and one pot with 4 trees ranging from 2 - 4 feet. The roots of the large one are so tangled they are inseparable, but the small one is still fairly loose. I recently tried splitting a small pot of 4 trees, but I think I was too rough and broke too many small roots. All 4 died. :(
Yes, I split them all apart right after the video. If you keep the old soil and make sure to keep the moisture level in a narrow optimal range of moist-but-not-soaking-wet they should recover fine. The older they get the harder it will be to split them apart successfully. I think at about3 feet tall it's reaching the point where it would be better to just leave them, up-pot, and fertilize regularly.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for the reply! I've had a hard time finding single trunk trees. I wish Costa Farms supplied some that aren't bunched together. I plan to try separating the small ones, and I guess for the bigger ones, I'll just cut the 2 smallest and leave it with 2 trunks.
I have. 4 ft one .It was doing well during winter and spring under a shade . I live in Houston and is around 95-100 degrees. Like I said she’s under a shade . Lately a LOT of needles has turned brown and fallen off . I keep the soil moist . Not sure if too moist. I was wondering if it will do good to bring her inside .
It might. Norfolk Island summers are 75F on average so its a cooler island climate than houston for sure. But they grow fine as far south as Ft. Myers FL, so you may have some kind of overwatering issue like you said. Which soil did you use? ideally it should be pretty sandy/free draining to handle frequent waterings but dry in between and get air through the soil.
Practicality. If you were to Un-pot it each time or check lower into the soil you will be disturbing the roots. If the top has had enough time to dry, generally the bottom will be drying out too as this is where the roots start to get concentrated and rapidly wick away the moisture. Most plants have a range of moisture they can tolerate, so once it’s getting on the dry side up top it’s fine to water again, assuming the bottom is in a similar state. If the soil is uniform this method is pretty accurate, however if a lot of perlite floats to the top it can be deceiving.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I use a moisture meter to check the roots. What should the meter needle read when it’s time to water? We live in South Florida in apartment. All windows on west side. I watered the maidenhair fern, the two parsley aralias, and the Norfolk “pine” at the same time a few days ago. They are in 6-inch pots, except Norfolk “pine” is in 8-inch. The soils don’t appear to have a lot of perlite in them. Last night I lifted each pot and they felt heavy except the maidenhair fern felt light. The topsoil still felt moist in the others so only the fern was watered and I bottom watered it first, then just a little top watering at the end. Should I assume the fern takes in more water than the others? Sorry for the lengthy text. I really appreciated your reply explaining why a certain method is used. I have been researching the care for each plant, but watering for me has been tricky. I’ve lost plants from root rot, or not enough. That’s why I bought a water meter to check near the roots. Thank you!
@@susandraluck25 Ferns can use a surprising amount of water, I believe this is mostly due to a higher transpiration rate through delicate leaves, plus they usually have quite a lot of foliage for the pot size. Something like a Norfolk pine or other conifer has small needles covered in a waxy layer so the water won't evaporate as quickly. As long as it stays somewhere in mid-moist area it will be fine, watering once it gets the lower end of the moist range. The older is gets the more it will tolerate drying out. My norfolks are in 7 inch deep x 5 inch wide pots and I only water them about once a week currently.
Thank you very much i have about 40 saplings i've been tasked with keeping alive for 3 weeks until a baby shower. i cannot thank you enough and may be asking more questions.@@TheBonsaiJungle
No, I was about to buy one but the store didn't have any with a branch structure that I considered to be good for bonsai. Their care should not be too complicated, just remember to try and replicate Caribbean conditions. Indoors they would almost definitely need to be under a good LED panel: at least a Yescom 225 or Sansi 70w panel. Other than that keep them in a well draining soil, can be potting soil with extra perlite or sand added, and water them when the top 1/2 inch of the soil starts to dry out. Any all purpose plant fertilizer would be fine, something with the same N-P-K numbers, i.e. 5-5-5 or 10-10-10
You can dilute it, but if you’re using it for Norfolk Island pine there better fertilizers (I.e. something that’s mainly nitrogen, or at least an even balance). There’s not much reason to go that heavy on phosphorous for conifers.
Yes, with good growlights you can grow almost any plant indoors, just under the light itself. These get Perry’s tall however, so you may need a strong one on top and some supplemental lights on the sides.
Hay dude, new to the channel all the way from South Africa. I know this is irrelevant of the video, but figured you would reply here faster rather than a 6 year old vid. So I got myself a Venus Flytrap as well as a Sundew planted into the same bog. Here in South Africa Summer and Spring it gets anywhere between 25 - 40 degreees celcius outside and in Winter and Fall anywhere between 20 - 0 with rare ocations dropping below 0 - -7 celcius. My question is really, with the Sundew in the same bog as the Flytrap ... would 6 hrs of direct sunlight be good for my Sundew seeing as my Flytrap NEEDS that 6 hrs? Also define 6 hrs of direct sunlight? Does that mean leaving the plant in the middel of a place with no shade for 6 hrs in the 40 degree sun? What happens in the dormancy period of the Flytrap? Should I take it out of the bog the Sundew is in and pot in in a seperate container because Sundew does not need the long dormancy a Flytrap needs? Speculating of the tempratures I gave up top, do you think my Sundew and Flytrap would be fine outside placed in a locaton where 6hrs of direct sunlight would shine under 40 degrees celcius?
It really depends on what species of sundew it is. 0-20 is a bit warm but should be ok for the flytrap dormancy, and you may not need to remove it. Direct sun means its right in the sun with no shade. During the hottest months you may want to get a shade cloth, or put it with more morning light instead of afternoon light, however even at 40 the venus flytrap should handle the sun perfectly fine, maybe needing more moisture if it starts to decline.
@@TheBonsaiJungle So basically they would be fine outside given my temps? I mean, it NEVER snows here and it rarely drops below freeze point anyway. Also, would it stres the plant if I leave ot outside for 6hrs in the morning sun and bring it back inside again where there is light shining through a window from the outside, leaving it there and taking the plant back outside again for that morning sun? Speaking for both plants here? Or should I just let it be outside where it gets the required sun, and I always just check that the bog is moist, but never dry or soaking wet?
@@sparky_862 I can't say anything for sure for the sundew if I don't know which species it is. The temps would be fine for the flytrap. I don't recommend moving them around that much, it will stress them out like crazy to be outside and inside every day. It's way better to just find a permanent place for them, or move them seasonally like the example where it may get too hot in the middle of summer and you may move them to a shadier spot.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Oh my God. I didn't watch your channel in years. You changed so much and you seem so happy. Im so so happy for you. Keep it going!
I agree. I don't want to speak for him but looks like he got his own place now and can grow what he wants ;)
Hanzifcation lol, no unfortunately I had to go through many stages before that became a possibility. I am however currently on track for having my own place which translates into a mini greenhouse and conifer nursery offering rare varieties when I can through eBay sales.
Thank you. Only video I've found with proper and specific care.
Excellent video. I watched several on the Norfolk Pine and I think yours is the best. Thank you for all the good information.
We have them in
Hawaii they protect against soil erosion and I noticed how they are precipitation towers and clouds always form around them and they bring rain
Looking good! I love these "pine trees", I have several.
Hanzifcation they suck for bonsai however I do like them as a potted plant once they start getting large. I did not appreciate them until I saw what the full size version looks like down in ft Myers Florida.
How do you propagate this houseplant?
I almost bought one of these today at Walmart. They have them out EVERY year close to Christmas, BUT, my greenhouse sometimes gets down to 49F and briefly maybe 46F, so, maybe that;s too cold for it?
But, in Florida, possibly it has gone down to 46F briefly? Maybe I will try it for the approx $10.00 price tag for one at Walmart. We have cats, and no place to put 1 inside the house. Plus, I was thinking that maybe in the greenhouse, it will grow more like they do in full sun, growing in the ground. Meaning the tree will look TOTALLY different than as a house plant. Just look up how they look as landscape plants, you'd NEVER think it's the same plant as the potted ones, like the one in this video. I saw a couple in Key West Florida years ago. Single trunked, much more sturdy, not lanky and loose like the ones you see as house plants, so I wanna try and get a potted one to grow for me like that. Overwintered in my greenhouse, but, during the warm months, outside in full sun. I'm hoping to get a potted one to grow like they do in the ground in warm climates, or as close as I can get to it. Key West has been known to only get down to about 60F in winter, BUT, maybe mainland South Florida has briefly gone down to 45F?
I'm guessing that most people here will not be able to answer my questions, but , MAYBE I'll get lucky.
From what I've read, generally, you don't want the temperature to be below 50F for extended periods of time. One night at ~46F would probably be ok. However, if it's gonna be that cold for several days, it might not fare too well. Outdoor trees are a different case because somewhere like Florida, even if the nighttime temp drops below 50F, the ground is likely much warmer. The roots won't experience as much variation as a potted plant would. My number 1 suggestion is to avoid shock of all kinds. Moving the tree suddenly from consistent 70F to 50F or lower may be enough to kill it. Likewise, if you move an indoor plant out into full sun without gradual acclimation, it will burn. Try to make changes gradually so the plant has time to adjust. Hope this helps!
Your video is VERY informative and detailed. But, I was wondering...How do we propagate these trees. I've got one in a pot that is really old, like about 12 years old, and it is all bald of branches most of the way up and looks really stupid. All the new growth looks nice, but it's these long bare trunks on this thing that bothers me. I'd like to take cuttings from it to start new trees but have been having a problem finding out exactly how to do that. Could you please comment on that if you know how to do this?
Araucarias (a genus of trees that includes the Norfolk Island pine) are generally propagated by seed to my knowledge. Unfortunately, both a male and a female tree are required for mature cones to yield viable seeds, so in your place I would look into simply purchasing a new plant. Hope I helped!
What to do for brown branches and branches that are falling off? Why does this happen and what to do? Thank you so much for a great video!
They will eventually get brown/yellow branches at the bottom of the trunk which can be cut off. The majority (75%) of the branches should still be green at any given time though.
Thankyou for this video. I just killed one. Bought another and going to try harder to keep it alive. I think the last one I didnt water enough
Love this video, thanks so much
So you don't recommend a north facing window?
I bought mine back in 2018 and it's 7 feet tall. The only thing I did was: Put it in a bigger pot as soon as I bought it, placed it in front of the south side facing window, close the ac vent above it, feed it every 6 months or so, water it and just be sloppy when I'm watering it, and trim any dead limbs off it. Nothing to It
Olá amigo , falo direto do Brasil e aqui elas crescem muito bem, obrigado pelo vídeo 🙏🏻👏🏻
This video is amazing.
A hunk and his plants. Exactly what I needed
Well done!
Is there a remedy for browned branches or needles ? Great video so helpful!
the Cake Pop SiStars nope. Once the branches start to go yellow/brown they’re goners and can be removed.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you for your reply! I’ve got some trimming to do. These are pretty resilient I have to say but your advice in this video should put me on the right path to making this plant happier!
My tree is getting at the max desired height. If I cut the very top of the tree, would it be alright?
Have you ever tried separating the trees when they are still young like the ones you have in this video? Also, do you know if having 4 - 6 trees in a pot is detrimental to their long-term health? I have one pot with 5 trees that is similar in size to yours, and one pot with 4 trees ranging from 2 - 4 feet. The roots of the large one are so tangled they are inseparable, but the small one is still fairly loose. I recently tried splitting a small pot of 4 trees, but I think I was too rough and broke too many small roots. All 4 died. :(
Yes, I split them all apart right after the video. If you keep the old soil and make sure to keep the moisture level in a narrow optimal range of moist-but-not-soaking-wet they should recover fine. The older they get the harder it will be to split them apart successfully. I think at about3 feet tall it's reaching the point where it would be better to just leave them, up-pot, and fertilize regularly.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for the reply! I've had a hard time finding single trunk trees. I wish Costa Farms supplied some that aren't bunched together. I plan to try separating the small ones, and I guess for the bigger ones, I'll just cut the 2 smallest and leave it with 2 trunks.
@@TheBonsaiJungle well this answers why I came here.. spanks.
Thanks for sharing. If I propagate from cutting. Do i need to use a rooting hormone ? Did you know 6ft. tall How much? Thanks
I would us it. Norfolk Island pines cuttings are hard to root successfully.
I have. 4 ft one .It was doing well during winter and spring under a shade . I live in Houston and is around 95-100 degrees. Like I said she’s under a shade . Lately a LOT of needles has turned brown and fallen off . I keep the soil moist . Not sure if too moist. I was wondering if it will do good to bring her inside .
It might. Norfolk Island summers are 75F on average so its a cooler island climate than houston for sure. But they grow fine as far south as Ft. Myers FL, so you may have some kind of overwatering issue like you said. Which soil did you use? ideally it should be pretty sandy/free draining to handle frequent waterings but dry in between and get air through the soil.
Very informative thank u
I’ve wondered why do we check the top
1 inch of the soil while it may be wet around the roots still. They can get root rot.
Practicality. If you were to Un-pot it each time or check lower into the soil you will be disturbing the roots. If the top has had enough time to dry, generally the bottom will be drying out too as this is where the roots start to get concentrated and rapidly wick away the moisture. Most plants have a range of moisture they can tolerate, so once it’s getting on the dry side up top it’s fine to water again, assuming the bottom is in a similar state. If the soil is uniform this method is pretty accurate, however if a lot of perlite floats to the top it can be deceiving.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I use a moisture meter to check the roots. What should the meter needle read when it’s time to water? We live in South Florida in apartment. All windows on west side. I watered the maidenhair fern, the two parsley aralias, and the Norfolk “pine” at the same time a few days ago. They are in 6-inch pots, except Norfolk “pine” is in 8-inch. The soils don’t appear to have a lot of perlite in them. Last night I lifted each pot and they felt heavy except the maidenhair fern felt light. The topsoil still felt moist in the others so only the fern was watered and I bottom watered it first, then just a little top watering at the end. Should I assume the fern takes in more water than the others? Sorry for the lengthy text. I really appreciated your reply explaining why a certain method is used. I have been researching the care for each plant, but watering for me has been tricky. I’ve lost plants from root rot, or not enough. That’s why I bought a water meter to check near the roots. Thank you!
@@susandraluck25 Ferns can use a surprising amount of water, I believe this is mostly due to a higher transpiration rate through delicate leaves, plus they usually have quite a lot of foliage for the pot size. Something like a Norfolk pine or other conifer has small needles covered in a waxy layer so the water won't evaporate as quickly. As long as it stays somewhere in mid-moist area it will be fine, watering once it gets the lower end of the moist range. The older is gets the more it will tolerate drying out. My norfolks are in 7 inch deep x 5 inch wide pots and I only water them about once a week currently.
Re : when to repot.. my norfolk(s) are 3 to one pot almost 5 ft tall. Does it like being crowded? Purchased over holidays. Thks
how long do you keep grow lights on while growing norfolk island pine indoors under a full spectrum led panel?
You can do 12 hours per day. In nature they will receive between 13.5 and 10.5 hours of sunlight based on whether it’s summer or winter
Thank you very much i have about 40 saplings i've been tasked with keeping alive for 3 weeks until a baby shower. i cannot thank you enough and may be asking more questions.@@TheBonsaiJungle
Hello do you have a video on how to take care of the Silver Buttonwood?
No, I was about to buy one but the store didn't have any with a branch structure that I considered to be good for bonsai. Their care should not be too complicated, just remember to try and replicate Caribbean conditions. Indoors they would almost definitely need to be under a good LED panel: at least a Yescom 225 or Sansi 70w panel. Other than that keep them in a well draining soil, can be potting soil with extra perlite or sand added, and water them when the top 1/2 inch of the soil starts to dry out. Any all purpose plant fertilizer would be fine, something with the same N-P-K numbers, i.e. 5-5-5 or 10-10-10
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thank you very much for your response! I learned a lot! I will follow your advice. 😃
The plant store I went to he sold me.
15-30-15 house plant food. Should I take it back or can I just dilute the plant food more?
You can dilute it, but if you’re using it for Norfolk Island pine there better fertilizers (I.e. something that’s mainly nitrogen, or at least an even balance). There’s not much reason to go that heavy on phosphorous for conifers.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you I will get a different plant food.
Do you mist them regularly?
No, it’s not necessary.
Thank you'
Can i keep it inside without natural light but my plant will get bright artificial light
Yes, with good growlights you can grow almost any plant indoors, just under the light itself. These get Perry’s tall however, so you may need a strong one on top and some supplemental lights on the sides.
@@TheBonsaiJungle yes my plant getting plenty of light. Thanks for the tips mate
Any advice on how to make a flame tree seedling a bonsai?
Hay dude, new to the channel all the way from South Africa. I know this is irrelevant of the video, but figured you would reply here faster rather than a 6 year old vid. So I got myself a Venus Flytrap as well as a Sundew planted into the same bog. Here in South Africa Summer and Spring it gets anywhere between 25 - 40 degreees celcius outside and in Winter and Fall anywhere between 20 - 0 with rare ocations dropping below 0 - -7 celcius.
My question is really, with the Sundew in the same bog as the Flytrap ... would 6 hrs of direct sunlight be good for my Sundew seeing as my Flytrap NEEDS that 6 hrs? Also define 6 hrs of direct sunlight? Does that mean leaving the plant in the middel of a place with no shade for 6 hrs in the 40 degree sun? What happens in the dormancy period of the Flytrap? Should I take it out of the bog the Sundew is in and pot in in a seperate container because Sundew does not need the long dormancy a Flytrap needs? Speculating of the tempratures I gave up top, do you think my Sundew and Flytrap would be fine outside placed in a locaton where 6hrs of direct sunlight would shine under 40 degrees celcius?
It really depends on what species of sundew it is. 0-20 is a bit warm but should be ok for the flytrap dormancy, and you may not need to remove it. Direct sun means its right in the sun with no shade. During the hottest months you may want to get a shade cloth, or put it with more morning light instead of afternoon light, however even at 40 the venus flytrap should handle the sun perfectly fine, maybe needing more moisture if it starts to decline.
@@TheBonsaiJungle So basically they would be fine outside given my temps? I mean, it NEVER snows here and it rarely drops below freeze point anyway. Also, would it stres the plant if I leave ot outside for 6hrs in the morning sun and bring it back inside again where there is light shining through a window from the outside, leaving it there and taking the plant back outside again for that morning sun? Speaking for both plants here?
Or should I just let it be outside where it gets the required sun, and I always just check that the bog is moist, but never dry or soaking wet?
@@sparky_862 I can't say anything for sure for the sundew if I don't know which species it is. The temps would be fine for the flytrap. I don't recommend moving them around that much, it will stress them out like crazy to be outside and inside every day. It's way better to just find a permanent place for them, or move them seasonally like the example where it may get too hot in the middle of summer and you may move them to a shadier spot.
@@TheBonsaiJungle The Sundew is a Drosera Capensis, Typical Form
@@sparky_862 Then it will grow perfectly fine in your climate, there shouldn't be any huge problems.